UKC

Climbs 243
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)

Faces N

On site solo of a classic The Prow E5-6a? © Ron Walker

Crag features

Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening. [John Scott]

Approach notes

From Elgin  head for Hopeman (6miles  B9012 or similar). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children's play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards.

Access Advice

No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy.

First time here at the weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is good, lots of holds for both hands and feet and protection is more than adequate. Lovely place to climb!!
CyberTaff - 12/Aug/13
Since the storm last week some of beach levels in areas have changed the sit starts/landings to some problems. The balmory boulder level is lower, not sure of the affects. Over in the cave a lower start to Sciatica, simoncelli and technically.. are all possible. The landing below KinkyBitch has leveled off nicely covering up the large rocks. Below finger licker is a similar height but has levelled off between the rocks. The beach below Gorilla is slightly lower, not changing the start much. The landing below the Sunshine Slabs has been pulled apart quite a bit and will change the climbing considerably.
Callum_Johnson - 25/Dec/12
Having lead a few routes here, I'd say their are some rather over polarised views represented here. Some of the rock is indeed sound and produces sound very well protected climbs. Other areas it's utter choss with holds actually crumbling away as you step on them - with no 'proper' protection on whole climbs. Some common sense and caution is required for trad leading here.
CurlyStevo - 30/Jul/12
hey guys, i left a black evolv defy shoe at the cave, iff anyone finds it , please say! amazing place
HenryCowan - 27/Nov/11
Both previous comments are complete bollox. This is a standard trad leading crag NOT a SS-sh1te style top-roping crag. (Oh and bouldering of course). The gear is perfectly fine if you know what you're doing and place it well. If you can't do that, go somewhere else to learn to lead.
Fiend - 11/May/09
Loads of routes. Great area for top roping. Agree with previous comment about leading. Chances are pro wouldn't hold if you took a lead fall.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06
Amazing little sandstone crag on the firth with wonderful views. Very grippy with tons of friction. Great bouldering although i wouldn't lead anything there because of it's softness. Bit like East Sussex, good for top roping. Amazing views and fresh sea air.
JoHNY - 21/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Orange Wall Area
2 Orange Peel
-
E1 5b 7
3 Route One
-
VS 4c 28
4 Ginger Snap
-
HVS 4c 13
5 Drainpipe Wall
-
E2 6b 4
6 Thumper
-
E3 6a  
7 Tangerine Scream
-
E5 6a 1
8 Hickory Dickory Dock
-
E4 6a  
9 Flakey Wall
-
E1 5a * 21
10 Route Two
-
E2 5b 6
11 Skelp
-
E2 5c 4
12 King Swing
-
E2 5c 5
13 Beserker
-
E4 6b 1
14 Power Stuggle
-
E5 6a  
  Gutbuster Bay
16 Beastie's Wall HS 4a 10
17 The Beast E2 5b 1
18 Middle Muddle Groove
-
D 13
19 Middle Muddle Direct VS 5a 4
20 Jugular Wall HS 4b 6
21 Mud, Sweat and Tears HS 4b 4
22 Hernia Corner
-
E2 6a **  
23 Anal Stretch E6 6b ** 1
24 Legbuster
-
E2 5c * 1
25 Gutbuster
-
E2 5c ** 4
26 Kneewrecker Chimney VS 4c ** 17
27 Sea Witch
-
E3 5b  
28 The Conjurer
-
E3 6a  
29 Sandy Volestrangler E3 6b 1
30 Dali's Wall
-
HS  
31 The Melting Clock
-
E2 5c  
32 Sidle
-
VS 4c 1
  Prophet Walls
34 Crown of Thorns VS 5a  
35 The Gripper
-
HVS 5b * 23
36 Surf Nazis Must Die
-
E5 6b ** 1
37 Aesthetic Ape
-
E4 6a ** 6
38 Bat Attack E5 6a  
39 Orange Ape E2 5c * 16
40 Statutory Ape
-
E6 6c ** 1
41 Bat's Wall
-
E4 6a *** 19
42 Bat Mafia Link E5 6a 2
43 Monkey Mafia
-
E5 6b *** 3
44 The Noddy Machine E2 5b * 7
45 Noddy Machine (Mayne Line Start)
-
E3 6a  
46 Jaded Arete E2 5c 5
47 Triangular Groove HVS 5a 8
48 Border Crossing
-
HS 4b 11
49 Borderline VS 4c 37
50 Palmist
-
E4 6b * 14
51 The Prophet E2 5c ** 155
52 Africa
-
E4 6a * 3
53 I-Ching
-
E3 5c * 37
54 Left VS 5a ** 287
55 Centre VS 4b ** 369
56 Right HVS 5b ** 275
57 Spare Rib
-
HVS 4c * 1
58 Yoohah
-
VS 5a 2
  Stacks Area - Tapered Wall
60 Toms Wall S 1
61 Graffiti Wall
-
VD 1
62 Pretty Flamingo
-
E1 5c  
63 Mr Tweet E3 6b **  
64 Ultra Radical E5 6c 2
65 The Nest
-
E2 6a * 5
66 Smelly Fish Crack HS  
  Stacks Area - Doubt Wall
68 Doubtless Wall S * 338
69 The Artful Dodger
-
HVS 5a 61
70 Diedre of Doubt HVS 5a ** 180
71 Diedre of Double Doubt E2 5b ** 71
72 Doubting Thomas
-
E2 5b 19
73 Staircase Crack S 278
74 Green Crack VS 4c 160
75 Lumside Crack
-
S 72
76 The Lum VD 20
77 Cascade
-
VS 5a 17
  Stacks Area - Cornflake Walls
79 Snotty Nose D 261
80 Pegless Wall HVS 4c 19
81 Old Peg Groove VS 4c * 120
82 Cornflake Wall
-
M * 219
83 Shredded Wheat VD 103
84 Rice Crispie Wall
-
D * 172
85 The Groove
-
D 146
86 Bombproof
-
S * 190
87 Blockproof
-
S 69
88 Blockbuster VD * 164
Climb name Grade
89 Doddle Diedre
-
S * 333
90 Stegosaurus VS 4c ** 330
91 Gibbon
-
HVS 5c * 66
92 Trapeze
-
VS 5b ** 135
93 Gorilla
-
E1 5c 2
  Stacks Area - Arch Wall
95 Bottemless Chimney
-
E3 6b  
96 Pipefish Wall
-
E3 6a * 9
97 Slab and Tickle
-
VD * 60
98 Giraffe Corner
-
E3 6a 20
99 Arch Wall E5 6b ** 7
100 Sandstone Wall
-
HVS 5a 10
101 Appletiser
-
HVS 5a * 10
102 Pomme de Terre HVS 5a  
103 Le Crunch
-
E4 5c *  
104 Fourth Dimension E2 5c 3
105 Jewels Underground
-
E3 6a  
106 Brain Warp
-
E2 5c  
107 Puppet on a String
-
A3  
108 Bullworker
-
HVS 5a * 9
109 Archibold
-
E4 6a  
110 Expanders Crack VS 4c 5
  Stacks Area - Sunshine Wall
112 Easy Arete M 37
113 Sunshine Roof HS * 133
114 Sunshine Groove S 76
115 Sunshine
-
HVS 5b 24
116 Sunshine Recess
-
S 44
117 Gorse Route S 93
118 Sunshine Crack
-
VS 4c 43
119 Sunshine Extra
-
HS 4b 20
  The Stack
121 Captain Birdseye
-
E2 5b * 27
122 Fingers Wall
-
E3 5b 15
123 Fingers Wall (Direct Start)
-
E3 6a 3
124 Flying Buttress, Left Side VD 192
125 Flying Buttress, Right Side D 110
126 Flying Groove VS 4c * 92
127 The Prow E5 6a ** 20
128 Cutty Sark S 11
129 East Side Story
-
VD 13
130 Back Passage M 38
131 Dirty Old Man VD 7
132 Sunset Song HS 4b * 54
133 Footloose
-
VS 4c 6
134 Blocky VD 11
135 Butchers Broom
-
VS 4b * 15
136 Shadow Flake HVS 5a 7
137 Coach Bolt Crack
-
VS 4c 19
138 Huggy Bear
-
VS 4c 15
139 The Pedestal
-
f4 4
  The Sentinal Stack
141 Jutting Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 6
142 Vein Attraction
-
S 5
143 Ramp Route
-
S * 6
  Bouldering
  Bouldering - Orange Wall Area
146 Pipe Overhang f6A 6a ** 4
147 Pipe Slab f6A+ * 10
  Bouldering - Tunnel Area
149 Tunnel Vision f6A+ ** 14
150 The Darkness f6B 2
151 Bulgy f6B * 6
152 Bertie f6A+ 6a * 1
  Bouldering - Jaws Boulder
154 Jaws f7A 13
155 The Great White f6B+ ** 18
156 Bite Radius f6A+ * 4
157 Big Blue f6B 6a 5
  Bouldering - Prophet Area
159 The Rob Thomas f5+ 1
160 Naff Roof f6A 1
161 Toochie f6B+ 6b 5
162 Surf Nazis f6C * 12
163 Bridge Defence f6A+ 2
164 The Shield f6C ** 19
165 Shield Ascension f7A * 1
166 Under Siege f6A 4
167 Attack Attack! f6C * 5
168 Batty Bat f6B+ 6b 8
169 Masonic-Finger-Shake f6C+ ** 38
170 Palmist f6B+ ** 16
171 Highball
-
f6C * 2
172 Highball Arete f6A+ ** 24
173 The Arete between Centre and Right (right side) f5+ 5c 9
174 Sloper f6A 6a 7
175 99 Flake f6A 2
176 99 Flake stand start f4 2
Climb name Grade
177 Right up f3+ 3
178 The Low Down f6A 6a * 9
179 The Low Down Stand Start f5 1
180 Left Hand Legend Original f6B * 1
181 Left Hand Legend Variation f6A+ 1
182 Left Hand Shortcut f5 1
183 Bay Watch f7A  
  Bouldering - Balamory Boulder
185 Daffty f6A 6a 6
186 Miss Hoolie f3 4b 18
187 PC Pinch f6B 6b 23
188 Suzie Scoop f6A+ 6a 22
189 Penny Pocket f6B 6b * 39
190 Balamory Dyno f6B+ * 1
191 Josie Jump f6B 6b 9
192 Archie f3+ 5a 23
193 Edie McCredie f3 4b 24
194 Balamory Traverse
-
f5 5b 59
  Bouldering - Stacks Area
196 There's Something About Diana f6C+ ** 6
197 Birdman f7A *** 39
198 Egret f6C * 7
199 The Stork f6C * 4
200 Pointer f6C * 1
201 The Nest (boulder problem) f6A *** 53
202 Claw f6A+ ** 5
203 Python V2 2
204 Boys On The Beach f6A+ * 8
205 Artful Dodger f5 5c 9
206 Bat Man f6B * 15
207 Robin f6A 6a 17
208 Doubt Wall Low Traverse f6A+ **  
  Bouldering - Corridor Cave
210 Feel the Lumens f7A *** 1
211 The Enemy Within f6C+ * 1
  Bouldering - Cave Area
213 Central Face Low Level Traverse none 5c ** 3
214 Pockets f5+ 8
215 Cave Man f6C+ ** 15
216 Cave Man - True Finish f7B ** 1
217 Sine Wave f7B ** 1
218 Gorilla f7A ** 13
219 Two Lager Hornsby f6C 1
220 Technically It's Not A Pigeon f6B * 4
221 Sciatica f6B ** 6
222 Randy the Cockerel f6C 2
223 Simoncelli f6B+ ** 15
224 Chao Sic f6C ** 4
225 Jam Crack f6A+  
226 Flying Arete f6A ** 4
227 Cave Beast f6A+ 10
228 Cave Arete f6A+ * 35
229 Ritchies Rockover f6C+ * 2
230 Buddha's Choice f6B ** 16
231 Space Invader f6B+ 1
232 KinkyBitch f6C ** 13
233 KinkyBitch SS f6C+ ** 1
234 Merlot Merlot f6B+ * 3
235 Finger Licker f7A *** 12
236 The Crucifix f6B+ ** 8
237 Ginger Rides Again f7B *** 3
238 Ginger Ninja f7A *  
239 Match and Snatch f7A+ *** 13
240 Crack f6A+ * 5
241 Double Stretch f6A 6a * 12
242 A Jerk Too Far f6B 4
243 Jerker f6A ** 46
244 Jerkless f6A+ 6b * 5
245 Pipefish Wall (boulder problem)
-
f6A 6a * 2
246 Headbanger
-
f5+ 5c * 6
247 Arch Wall (boulder problem)
-
f6A+ * 3
248 Pudding Prow f6B * 2
  Bouldering - Sunshine Wall Area
250 Sunshine Wall High 6b 15
251 Sunshine Wall Low 6c+  
252 Mr. Binney f4 5a 15
253 Illonas Crack f3 4a 20
254 Araldite f4 5a 15
255 Latifa f3 4b 14
256 Skunk Wall f4 5a 8
257 Buddah of Brodie f6B *  
258 Buddah of Brodie - low start f6C+ ** 1
259 Pip f6B 1
260 Martin's Arete f3 4b 9
261 Dougster f5+ 5b 5
  Bouldering - Cummingston West
263 Clash City Rockers f5 5b  
264 The Day The World Turned Dayglow f4+ 5b  

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