Climbs 262
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces N

View Stats

On site solo of a classic The Prow E5-6a? © Ron Walker

Crag features

Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening. [John Scott]

For boulderers-

Please clean excess chalk off holds as it'll congiel in the condensation (see Fingerlicker). Likewise for tickmarks.

Approach notes

From Elgin  head for Hopeman (6miles  B9012 or similar). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children's play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards.

Access Advice

No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy.

First time here at the weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is good, lots of holds for both hands and feet and protection is more than adequate. Lovely place to climb!!
CyberTaff - 12/Aug/13
Since the storm last week some of beach levels in areas have changed the sit starts/landings to some problems. The balmory boulder level is lower, not sure of the affects. Over in the cave a lower start to Sciatica, simoncelli and technically.. are all possible. The landing below KinkyBitch has leveled off nicely covering up the large rocks. Below finger licker is a similar height but has levelled off between the rocks. The beach below Gorilla is slightly lower, not changing the start much. The landing below the Sunshine Slabs has been pulled apart quite a bit and will change the climbing considerably.
Callum_Johnson - 25/Dec/12
Having lead a few routes here, I'd say their are some rather over polarised views represented here. Some of the rock is indeed sound and produces sound very well protected climbs. Other areas it's utter choss with holds actually crumbling away as you step on them - with no 'proper' protection on whole climbs. Some common sense and caution is required for trad leading here.
CurlyStevo - 30/Jul/12
hey guys, i left a black evolv defy shoe at the cave, iff anyone finds it , please say! amazing place
HenryCowan - 27/Nov/11
Both previous comments are complete bollox. This is a standard trad leading crag NOT a SS-sh1te style top-roping crag. (Oh and bouldering of course). The gear is perfectly fine if you know what you're doing and place it well. If you can't do that, go somewhere else to learn to lead.
Fiend - 11/May/09
Loads of routes. Great area for top roping. Agree with previous comment about leading. Chances are pro wouldn't hold if you took a lead fall.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06
Amazing little sandstone crag on the firth with wonderful views. Very grippy with tons of friction. Great bouldering although i wouldn't lead anything there because of it's softness. Bit like East Sussex, good for top roping. Amazing views and fresh sea air.
JoHNY - 21/Jul/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Metal slide on the approach to Cummingston 1 *** 14
  Orange Wall Area
3 Orange Peel
-
E1 5b 7
4 Route One VS 4c 31
5 Ginger Snap
-
HVS 4c 13
6 Drainpipe Wall
-
E2 6b 4
7 Thumper
-
E3 6a 1
8 Tangerine Scream
-
E5 6a 2
9 Hickory Dickory Dock
-
E4 6a 1
10 Flakey Wall E1 5a * 22
11 Route Two
-
E2 5b 6
12 Skelp
-
E2 5c 4
13 King Swing
-
E2 5c 5
14 Beserker
-
E4 6b 1
15 Power Stuggle
-
E5 6a  
  Gutbuster Bay
17 Beastie's Wall HS 4a 11
18 The Beast E2 5b 1
19 Middle Muddle Groove
-
D 15
20 Middle Muddle Direct VS 5a 6
21 Jugular Wall HS 4b 10
22 Mud, Sweat and Tears HS 4b 7
23 Hernia Corner
-
E2 6a ** 1
24 Anal Stretch E6 6b ** 1
25 Legbuster
-
E2 5c * 3
26 Gutbuster
-
E2 5c ** 6
27 Kneewrecker Chimney VS 4c ** 23
28 Mind Bender E4 6a ** 2
29 Sea Witch
-
E3 5b  
30 The Conjurer
-
E3 6a  
31 Sandy Volestrangler E3 6b 2
32 The Grab none 6b 2
33 Dali's Wall
-
HS  
34 The Melting Clock
-
E2 5c  
35 Bunny Boiler 7a+ s2/3 **  
36 Evilness 7b s2/3 *  
37 Sidle
-
VS 4c 1
  Prophet Walls
39 Crown of Thorns VS 5a 3
40 Atcha E3 6a 2
41 The Gripper HVS 5b * 29
42 Surf Nazis Must Die E5 6b ** 2
43 Aesthetic Ape
-
E4 6a ** 8
44 Bat Attack E5 6a 1
45 Orange Ape E2 5c ** 19
46 Statutory Ape E6 6c ** 1
47 Bat's Wall E4 6a *** 21
48 Bat Mafia Link E5 6b ** 4
49 Monkey Mafia E5 6b *** 3
50 Herd Mentality E5 6b 1
51 Noddy Machine (Mayne Line Start) E3 6a * 2
52 The Noddy Machine E2 5b ** 7
53 Jaded Arete E2 5c 5
54 Triangular Groove HVS 5a 8
55 Border Crossing
-
HS 4b 12
56 Borderline VS 4c 49
57 Palmist E4 6b * 17
58 The Prophet E2 5c ** 206
59 Africa E4 6a 6
60 I-Ching E3 5c ** 41
61 Left VS 5a ** 363
62 Buda's Arete HVS 5b 2
63 Centre VS 4b ** 463
64 Yorkshire Grip E2 6a  
65 Right HVS 5b ** 348
66 Spare Rib HVS 4c * 1
67 Yoohah
-
VS 5a 2
  Stacks Area - Tapered Wall
69 Toms Wall S 1
70 Graffiti Wall
-
VD 1
71 Pretty Flamingo
-
E1 5c  
72 Mr Tweet E3 6b **  
73 Ultra Radical E5 6c 3
74 The Nest E2 6a * 6
75 Smelly Fish Crack HS  
  Stacks Area - Doubt Wall
77 Doubtless Wall S * 439
78 The Artful Dodger
-
HVS 5a 76
79 Diedre of Doubt HVS 5a ** 240
80 Diedre of Double Doubt E2 5b ** 93
81 Doubting Thomas
-
E2 5b 24
82 Staircase Crack S 337
83 Green Crack VS 4c 217
84 Lumside Crack
-
S 80
85 The Lum VD 29
86 Bob Line E4 6a 6
87 Cascade
-
VS 5a 21
  Stacks Area - Cornflake Walls
89 Snotty Nose D 329
90 Pegless Wall HVS 4c 23
91 Old Peg Groove VS 4c * 168
92 Cornflake Wall
-
M * 275
93 Shredded Wheat VD 127
94 Rice Crispie Wall
-
D * 208
95 The Groove
-
D 166
Climb name Grade
96 Bombproof
-
S * 225
97 Blockproof
-
S 82
98 Blockbuster VD * 194
99 Doddle Diedre
-
S * 391
100 Stegosaurus VS 4c ** 403
101 Gibbon
-
HVS 5c * 80
102 Trapeze
-
VS 5b ** 150
103 Gorilla
-
E1 5c 2
  Stacks Area - Arch Wall
105 Bottemless Chimney
-
E3 6b  
106 Pipefish Wall
-
E3 6a * 10
107 Slab and Tickle
-
VD * 69
108 Giraffe Corner
-
E3 6a 21
109 Arch Wall E5 6b ** 11
110 Sandstone Wall
-
HVS 5a 13
111 Appletiser
-
HVS 5a * 13
112 Pomme de Terre HVS 5a 2
113 Le Crunch
-
E4 5c * 2
114 Fourth Dimension E2 5c 3
115 Jewels Underground
-
E3 6a  
116 Brain Warp
-
E2 5c  
117 Puppet on a String
-
A3  
118 Bullworker
-
HVS 5a * 11
119 Archibold
-
E4 6a  
120 Expanders Crack VS 4c 7
  Stacks Area - Sunshine Wall
122 Easy Arete M 46
123 Sunshine Roof HS * 177
124 Sunshine Groove S 94
125 Sunshine
-
HVS 5b 31
126 Sunshine Recess
-
S 48
127 Gorse Route S 112
128 Sunshine Crack
-
VS 4c 59
129 Sunshine Extra
-
HS 4b 24
  The Stack
131 Captain Birdseye
-
E2 5b * 28
132 Fingers Wall
-
E3 5b 21
133 Fingers Wall (Direct Start)
-
E3 6a 5
134 Flying Buttress, Left Side VD 260
135 Flying Buttress, Right Side D 137
136 Flying Groove VS 4c * 115
137 The Prow E5 6a ** 22
138 Cutty Sark S 11
139 East Side Story
-
VD 15
140 Back Passage M 40
141 Dirty Old Man VD 9
142 Sunset Song HS 4b * 62
143 Footloose
-
VS 4c 8
144 Blocky VD 13
145 Butchers Broom
-
VS 4b * 16
146 Shadow Flake HVS 5a 7
147 Coach Bolt Crack
-
VS 4c 22
148 Huggy Bear
-
VS 4c 15
149 The Pedestal
-
f4 4
  The Sentinal Stack
151 Jutting Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 6
152 Vein Attraction
-
S 5
153 Ramp Route
-
S * 8
  Bouldering
  Bouldering - Orange Wall Area
156 Pipe Overhang f6A 6a ** 5
157 Pipe Slab f6A+ * 11
  Bouldering - Tunnel Area
159 Tunnel Vision f6A+ ** 15
160 The Darkness f6B 2
161 Bulgy f6B * 6
162 Bertie f6A+ 6a * 2
  Bouldering - Jaws Boulder
164 Jaws f7A 14
165 The Great White f6B+ ** 26
166 Bite Radius f6A+ * 6
167 Big Blue f6B 6a 5
  Bouldering - Prophet Area
169 The Rob Thomas f5+ 1
170 Naff Roof f6A 1
171 Toochie f6B+ 6b 5
172 Surf Nazis f6A+ 19
173 Bridge Defence f6A+ 3
174 The Shield f6C ** 22
175 Shield Ascension f7A * 4
176 Under Siege f6A 5
177 Attack Attack! f6C * 7
178 Batty Bat f6B+ 6b 8
179 Liam's Problem f7A+ ** 1
180 Masonic-Finger-Shake f6C+ ** 44
181 Jaded Arete Sit Start f6B 6
182 Palmist f6B+ ** 25
183 Highball
-
f6C * 2
184 Highball Arete f6A+ ** 31
185 The Arete between Centre and Right (right side) f5+ 5c 15
186 Sloper f6A 6a 10
187 99 Flake f6A 6
188 99 Flake stand start f4 6
189 Right up f3+ 9
190 The Low Down f6A 6a * 12
Climb name Grade
191 The Low Down Stand Start f5 5
192 Left Hand Legend Original f6B * 1
193 Left Hand Legend Variation f6A+ 1
194 Left Hand Shortcut f5 2
195 Bay Watch f7A  
  Bouldering - Balamory Boulder
197 Daffty f6A 6a 7
198 Miss Hoolie f3 4b 30
199 PC Pinch f6B 6b 36
200 Suzie Scoop f6A+ 6a 43
201 Penny Pocket f6B 6b * 65
202 Balamory Dyno f6B+ * 2
203 Josie Jump f6B 6b 12
204 Archie f3+ 5a 40
205 Edie McCredie f3 4b 37
206 Balamory Traverse
-
f5 5b 75
  Bouldering - Stacks Area
208 There's Something About Diana f6C+ ** 8
209 Taxi Driver f6B **  
210 Ultra Radical (boulder problem) f7A ** 3
211 Birdman f7A *** 53
212 Egret f6C * 7
213 The Stork f6C * 9
214 Pointer f6C * 1
215 The Nest (boulder problem) f6A+ *** 69
216 Claw f6A+ ** 9
217 Python V2 4
218 Boys On The Beach f6A+ * 17
219 Artful Dodger f5 5c 14
220 Bat Man f6B * 25
221 Robin f6A 6a 27
222 Doubt Wall Low Traverse f6A+ ** 11
  Bouldering - Corridor Cave
224 Feel the Lumens f7A *** 1
225 The Enemy Within f6C+ * 1
  Bouldering - Cave Area
227 Central Face Low Level Traverse none 5c ** 8
228 Pockets f5+ 10
229 Cave Man f6C+ ** 19
230 Cave Man - True Finish f7B ** 1
231 Sine Wave f7B ** 2
232 Gorilla f7A *** 18
233 Two Lager Hornsby f6C 1
234 Technically It's Not A Pigeon f6B * 4
235 Sciatica f6B ** 6
236 Randy the Cockerel f6C 2
237 Simoncelli f6B+ ** 19
238 Chao Sic f6C ** 6
239 Jam Crack f6A+ 6
240 Flying Arete f6A ** 18
241 Right to Left f6A 3
242 Right Again f6A 4
243 Cave Beast f6A+ 10
244 Cave Arete f6A+ * 36
245 Ritchies Rockover f6C+ * 2
246 Buddha's Choice f6B ** 19
247 Space Invader f6B+ 1
248 Pudding Prow f6B * 2
249 KinkyBitch f6C ** 15
250 KinkyBitch SS f6C+ ** 1
251 Merlot Merlot f6B+ * 4
252 Time Zones f7B+ *** 1
253 Finger Licker f7A *** 13
254 The Crucifix f6B+ *** 8
255 Ginger Rides Again f7B *** 5
256 Match and Jerk f7A+ ** 1
257 Ginger Ninja f7A * 1
258 Match and Snatch f7A+ *** 20
259 Pipefish Wall (boulder problem) f6A * 7
260 Double Stretch f6A 6a * 13
261 Headbanger f5+ * 8
262 Double Jerk f6C+ * 3
263 A Jerk Too Far f6B 6
264 Jerker f6A ** 54
265 Jerkless f6A+ 6b * 7
266 Arch Wall (boulder problem)
-
f6A+ * 4
  Bouldering - Sunshine Wall Area
268 Sunshine Wall Super Low 6c+ 4
269 Sunshine Wall Low 6b+ 18
270 Sunshine Wall High 6a+  
271 Mr. Binney f4 5a 19
272 Illonas Crack f3 4a 24
273 Araldite f4 5a 21
274 Latifa f3 4b 18
275 Skunk Wall f4 5a 13
276 Buddah of Brodie f6B *  
277 Buddah of Brodie - low start f6C+ ** 2
278 Pip f6B 1
279 Martin's Arete f3 4b 11
280 Dougster f5+ 5b 7
  Bouldering - Cummingston West
282 Clash City Rockers f5 5b  
283 The Day The World Turned Dayglow f4+ 5b  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer TeddyC