Climbs 231
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)

Faces N

On site solo of a classic The Prow E5-6a? © Ron Walker

Crag features

Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening. [John Scott]

Approach notes

From Elgin  head for Hopeman (6miles  B9012 or similar). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children's play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards.

Access Advice

No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy.

First time here at the weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is good, lots of holds for both hands and feet and protection is more than adequate. Lovely place to climb!!
CyberTaff - 12/Aug/13
Since the storm last week some of beach levels in areas have changed the sit starts/landings to some problems. The balmory boulder level is lower, not sure of the affects. Over in the cave a lower start to Sciatica, simoncelli and technically.. are all possible. The landing below KinkyBitch has leveled off nicely covering up the large rocks. Below finger licker is a similar height but has levelled off between the rocks. The beach below Gorilla is slightly lower, not changing the start much. The landing below the Sunshine Slabs has been pulled apart quite a bit and will change the climbing considerably.
Callum_Johnson - 25/Dec/12
Having lead a few routes here, I'd say their are some rather over polarised views represented here. Some of the rock is indeed sound and produces sound very well protected climbs. Other areas it's utter choss with holds actually crumbling away as you step on them - with no 'proper' protection on whole climbs. Some common sense and caution is required for trad leading here.
CurlyStevo - 30/Jul/12
hey guys, i left a black evolv defy shoe at the cave, iff anyone finds it , please say! amazing place
HenryCowan - 27/Nov/11
Both previous comments are complete bollox. This is a standard trad leading crag NOT a SS-sh1te style top-roping crag. (Oh and bouldering of course). The gear is perfectly fine if you know what you're doing and place it well. If you can't do that, go somewhere else to learn to lead.
Fiend - 11/May/09
Loads of routes. Great area for top roping. Agree with previous comment about leading. Chances are pro wouldn't hold if you took a lead fall.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06
Amazing little sandstone crag on the firth with wonderful views. Very grippy with tons of friction. Great bouldering although i wouldn't lead anything there because of it's softness. Bit like East Sussex, good for top roping. Amazing views and fresh sea air.
JoHNY - 21/Jul/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Orange Wall Area 
2Orange Peel
-
E1 5b 7
3Route One
-
VS 4c 28
4Ginger Snap
-
HVS 4c 13
5Drainpipe Wall
-
E2 6b 4
6Thumper
-
E3 6a  
7Tangerine Scream
-
E5 6a 1
8Hickory Dickory Dock
-
E4 6a  
9Flakey Wall
-
E1 5a *20
10Route Two
-
E2 5b 6
11Skelp
-
E2 5c 4
12King Swing
-
E2 5c 5
13Beserker
-
E4 6b 1
14Power Stuggle
-
E5 6a  
 Gutbuster Bay 
16Beastie's WallHS 4a 9
17The BeastE2 5b 1
18Middle Muddle Groove
-
D 12
19Middle Muddle DirectVS 5a 3
20Jugular WallHS 4b 6
21Mud, Sweat and TearsHS 4b 4
22Hernia Corner
-
E2 6a ** 
23Anal StretchE6 6b **1
24Legbuster
-
E2 5c *1
25Gutbuster
-
E2 5c **4
26Kneewrecker ChimneyVS 4c **17
27Sea Witch
-
E3 5b  
28The Conjurer
-
E3 6a  
29Sandy VolestranglerE3 6b 1
30Dali's Wall
-
HS  
31The Melting Clock
-
E2 5c  
32Sidle
-
VS 4c 1
 Prophet Walls 
34The Gripper
-
HVS 5b *18
35Surf Nazis Must Die
-
E5 6b **1
36Aesthetic Ape
-
E4 6a **6
37Bat AttackE5 6a  
38Orange ApeE2 5c *13
39Statutory Ape
-
E6 6c ** 
40Bat's Wall
-
E4 6a ***15
41Monkey Mafia
-
E5 6b ***3
42The Noddy MachineE2 5b *7
43Noddy Machine (Mayne Line Start)
-
E3 6a  
44Jaded AreteE2 5c 5
45Triangular GrooveHVS 5a 8
46Border Crossing
-
HS 4b 11
47BorderlineVS 4c 36
48Palmist
-
E4 6b *12
49The ProphetE2 5c **139
50Africa
-
E4 6a *2
51I-Ching
-
E3 5c *30
52LeftVS 5a **263
53CentreVS 4b **345
54RightHVS 5b **254
55Spare Rib
-
HVS 4c * 
56Yoohah
-
VS 5a  
 Stacks Area - Tapered Wall 
58Toms WallS 1
59Graffiti Wall
-
VD  
60Pretty Flamingo
-
E1 5c  
61Mr TweetE3 6b ** 
62Ultra RadicalE5 6c 2
63The Nest
-
E2 6a *5
 Stacks Area - Doubt Wall 
65Doubtless WallS *319
66The Artful Dodger
-
HVS 5a 55
67Diedre of DoubtHVS 5a **165
68Diedre of Double DoubtE2 5b **61
69Doubting Thomas
-
E2 5b 16
70Staircase CrackS 259
71Green CrackVS 4c 145
72Lumside Crack
-
S 67
73The LumVD 18
74Cascade
-
VS 5a 17
 Stacks Area - Cornflake Walls 
76Snotty NoseD 245
77Pegless WallHVS 4c 19
78Old Peg GrooveVS 4c *116
79Cornflake Wall
-
M *211
80Shredded WheatVD 96
81Rice Crispie Wall
-
D *164
82The Groove
-
D 140
83Bombproof
-
S *176
84Blockproof
-
S 63
85BlockbusterVD *150
86Doddle Diedre
-
S *315
87StegosaurusVS 4c **309
88Gibbon
-
HVS 5c *64
89Trapeze
-
VS 5b **130
90Gorilla
-
E1 5c  
 Stacks Area - Arch Wall 
92Bottemless Chimney
-
E3 6b  
93Pipefish Wall
-
E3 6a *9
94Slab and Tickle
-
VD *54
95Giraffe Corner
-
E3 6a 17
96Arch WallE5 6b **5
97Sandstone Wall
-
HVS 5a 10
98Appletiser
-
HVS 5a *8
99Le Crunch
-
E4 5c * 
100Fourth DimensionE2 5c 3
101Jewels Underground
-
E3 6a  
102Brain Warp
-
E2 5c  
103Puppet on a String
-
A3  
104Bullworker
-
HVS 5a *9
105Archibold
-
E4 6a  
106Expanders CrackVS 4c 5
 Stacks Area - Sunshine Wall 
108Easy AreteM 37
109Sunshine RoofHS *128
110Sunshine GrooveS 69
111Sunshine
-
HVS 5b 24
112Sunshine Recess
-
S 41
113Gorse RouteS 89
114Sunshine Crack
-
VS 4c 39
115Sunshine Extra
-
HS 4b 20
 The Stack 
117Captain Birdseye
-
E2 5b *25
118Fingers Wall
-
E3 5b 13
119Fingers Wall (Direct Start)
-
E3 6a 3
120Flying Buttress, Left SideVD 179
121Flying Buttress, Right SideD 103
122Flying GrooveVS 4c *87
123The ProwE5 6a **15
124Cutty SarkS 11
125East Side Story
-
VD 12
126Back PassageM 37
127Dirty Old ManVD 7
128Sunset SongHS 4b *51
129Footloose
-
VS 4c 6
130BlockyVD 8
131Butchers Broom
-
VS 4b *15
132Shadow FlakeHVS 5a 7
133Coach Bolt Crack
-
VS 4c 19
134Huggy Bear
-
VS 4c 15
135The Pedestal
-
f4 4
 The Sentinal Stack 
137Jutting Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 6
138Vein Attraction
-
S 5
139Ramp Route
-
S *6
 Bouldering 
 Bouldering - Orange Wall Area 
142Pipe Overhangf6A **3
143Pipe Slabf6A+ *9
 Bouldering - Tunnel Area 
145Tunnel Visionf6A+ **13
146The Darknessf6B 2
147Bulgyf6B *6
148Bertief6A+ *1
 Bouldering - Prophet Area 
150Jawsf7A 13
151The Great Whitef6B+ **14
152Bite Radiusf6A+ *2
153Big Bluef6B 5
154Toochief6B+ 5
155Surf Nazisf6C *12
156Bridge Defencef6A+ 1
157The Shieldf6C **17
158Shield Ascensionf7A *1
159Under Siegef6A 4
160Attack Attack!f6C *4
161Batty Batf6B+ 8
162Masonic-Finger-Shakef6C+ **37
163Palmistf6B+ **16
164Highball
-
f6C *2
165Highball Aretef6A+ **24
166The Arete between Centre and Right (right side)f5+ 9
167Sloperf6A 7
16899 Flakef6A 2
16999 Flake stand startf4 2
170Right upf3+ 3
171The Low Downf6A *9
172The Low Down Stand Startf5 1
173Left Hand Legend Originalf6B *1
174Left Hand Legend Variationf6A+ 1
175Left Hand Shortcutf5 1
176Bay Watchf7A  
 Bouldering - Balamory Boulder 
178Dafftyf6A 6
179Miss Hoolief3 17
180PC Pinchf6B 21
181Suzie Scoopf6A+ 20
182Penny Pocketf6B *36
183Josie Jumpf6B 9
184Archief3+ 23
185Edie McCredief3 21
186Balamory Traverse
-
f5 57
 Bouldering - Stacks Area 
188There's Something About Dianaf6C+ **5
189Birdmanf7A ***37
190Egretf6C *7
191The Storkf6C *4
192Pointerf6C *1
193The Nest (boulder problem)f6A **48
194Clawf6A+ **5
195PythonV2 2
196Boys On The Beachf6A+ *5
197Artful Dodgerf5 7
198Bat Manf6B *13
199Robinf6A 16
 Bouldering - Corridor Cave 
201Feel the Lumensf7A ***1
202The Enemy Withinf6C+ *1
 Bouldering - Cave Area 
204Central Face Low Level Traversenone 5c **2
205Pocketsf5+ 8
206Cave Manf6C+ **14
207Cave Man - True Finishf7B **1
208Sine Wavef7B **1
209Gorillaf7A **12
210Two Lager Hornsbyf6C 1
211Technically It's Not A Pigeonf6B *4
212Sciaticaf6B **6
213Randy the Cockerelf6C 2
214Simoncellif6B+ **15
215Chao Sicf6C **4
216Flying Aretef6A **2
217Cave Beastf6A+ 10
218Cave Aretef6A+ *34
219Ritchies Rockoverf6C+ *2
220Buddha's Choicef6B **15
221KinkyBitchf6C **13
222Merlot Merlotf6B+ *3
223Finger Lickerf7A ***12
224The Crucifixf6B+ **7
225Ginger Rides Againf7B ***3
226Ginger Ninjaf7A ** 
227Match and Snatchf7A+ ***13
228Crackf6A+ *5
229Double Stretchf6A *12
230A Jerk Too Farf6B 4
231Jerkerf6A **46
232Jerklessf6A+ *5
233Pipefish Wall (boulder problem)
-
f6A *2
234Headbanger
-
f5+ *6
235Arch Wall (boulder problem)
-
f6A+ *3
236Pudding Prowf6B *1
 Bouldering - Sunshine Wall Area 
238Sunshine Wallf5+ 15
239Mr. Binneyf4 15
240Illonas Crackf3 20
241Aralditef4 15
242Latifaf3 14
243Skunk Wallf4 8
244Buddah of Brodief6B * 
245Buddah of Brodie - low startf6C+ **1
246Pipf6B 1
247Martin's Aretef3 9
248Dougsterf5+ 5
 Bouldering - Cummingston West 
250Clash City Rockersf5  
251The Day The World Turned Dayglowf4+  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer TeddyC