Climbs 257
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces N

On site solo of a classic The Prow E5-6a? © Ron Walker

Crag features

Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening. [John Scott]

For boulderers-

Please clean excess chalk off holds as it'll congiel in the condensation (see Fingerlicker). Likewise for tickmarks.

Approach notes

From Elgin  head for Hopeman (6miles  B9012 or similar). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children's play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards.

Access Advice

No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy.

First time here at the weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is good, lots of holds for both hands and feet and protection is more than adequate. Lovely place to climb!!
CyberTaff - 12/Aug/13
Since the storm last week some of beach levels in areas have changed the sit starts/landings to some problems. The balmory boulder level is lower, not sure of the affects. Over in the cave a lower start to Sciatica, simoncelli and technically.. are all possible. The landing below KinkyBitch has leveled off nicely covering up the large rocks. Below finger licker is a similar height but has levelled off between the rocks. The beach below Gorilla is slightly lower, not changing the start much. The landing below the Sunshine Slabs has been pulled apart quite a bit and will change the climbing considerably.
Callum_Johnson - 25/Dec/12
Having lead a few routes here, I'd say their are some rather over polarised views represented here. Some of the rock is indeed sound and produces sound very well protected climbs. Other areas it's utter choss with holds actually crumbling away as you step on them - with no 'proper' protection on whole climbs. Some common sense and caution is required for trad leading here.
CurlyStevo - 30/Jul/12
hey guys, i left a black evolv defy shoe at the cave, iff anyone finds it , please say! amazing place
HenryCowan - 27/Nov/11
Both previous comments are complete bollox. This is a standard trad leading crag NOT a SS-sh1te style top-roping crag. (Oh and bouldering of course). The gear is perfectly fine if you know what you're doing and place it well. If you can't do that, go somewhere else to learn to lead.
Fiend - 11/May/09
Loads of routes. Great area for top roping. Agree with previous comment about leading. Chances are pro wouldn't hold if you took a lead fall.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06
Amazing little sandstone crag on the firth with wonderful views. Very grippy with tons of friction. Great bouldering although i wouldn't lead anything there because of it's softness. Bit like East Sussex, good for top roping. Amazing views and fresh sea air.
JoHNY - 21/Jul/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Orange Wall Area
2 Orange Peel
-
E1 5b 7
3 Route One VS 4c 31
4 Ginger Snap
-
HVS 4c 13
5 Drainpipe Wall
-
E2 6b 4
6 Thumper
-
E3 6a 1
7 Tangerine Scream
-
E5 6a 2
8 Hickory Dickory Dock
-
E4 6a 1
9 Flakey Wall E1 5a * 22
10 Route Two
-
E2 5b 6
11 Skelp
-
E2 5c 4
12 King Swing
-
E2 5c 5
13 Beserker
-
E4 6b 1
14 Power Stuggle
-
E5 6a  
  Gutbuster Bay
16 Beastie's Wall HS 4a 11
17 The Beast E2 5b 1
18 Middle Muddle Groove
-
D 13
19 Middle Muddle Direct VS 5a 4
20 Jugular Wall HS 4b 7
21 Mud, Sweat and Tears HS 4b 5
22 Hernia Corner
-
E2 6a ** 1
23 Anal Stretch E6 6b ** 1
24 Legbuster
-
E2 5c * 1
25 Gutbuster
-
E2 5c ** 6
26 Kneewrecker Chimney VS 4c ** 18
27 Mind Bender E4 6a ** 2
28 Sea Witch
-
E3 5b  
29 The Conjurer
-
E3 6a  
30 Sandy Volestrangler E3 6b 2
31 The Grab none 6b 2
32 Dali's Wall
-
HS  
33 The Melting Clock
-
E2 5c  
34 Bunny Boiler 7a+ s2/3 **  
35 Evilness 7b s2/3 *  
36 Sidle
-
VS 4c 1
  Prophet Walls
38 Crown of Thorns VS 5a  
39 Atcha E3 6a 1
40 The Gripper HVS 5b * 28
41 Surf Nazis Must Die E5 6b ** 2
42 Aesthetic Ape
-
E4 6a ** 8
43 Bat Attack E5 6a 1
44 Orange Ape E2 5c ** 19
45 Statutory Ape E6 6c ** 1
46 Bat's Wall E4 6a *** 21
47 Bat Mafia Link E5 6b 4
48 Monkey Mafia E5 6b *** 3
49 Noddy Machine (Mayne Line Start) E3 6a * 2
50 The Noddy Machine E2 5b ** 7
51 Jaded Arete E2 5c 5
52 Triangular Groove HVS 5a 8
53 Border Crossing
-
HS 4b 12
54 Borderline VS 4c 48
55 Palmist E4 6b * 16
56 The Prophet E2 5c ** 192
57 Africa E4 6a 4
58 I-Ching E3 5c ** 38
59 Left VS 5a ** 331
60 Buda's Arete HVS 5b  
61 Centre VS 4b ** 421
62 Yorkshire Grip E2 6a  
63 Right HVS 5b ** 316
64 Spare Rib HVS 4c * 1
65 Yoohah
-
VS 5a 2
  Stacks Area - Tapered Wall
67 Toms Wall S 1
68 Graffiti Wall
-
VD 1
69 Pretty Flamingo
-
E1 5c  
70 Mr Tweet E3 6b **  
71 Ultra Radical E5 6c 3
72 The Nest E2 6a * 5
73 Smelly Fish Crack HS  
  Stacks Area - Doubt Wall
75 Doubtless Wall S * 386
76 The Artful Dodger
-
HVS 5a 68
77 Diedre of Doubt HVS 5a ** 216
78 Diedre of Double Doubt E2 5b ** 86
79 Doubting Thomas
-
E2 5b 23
80 Staircase Crack S 305
81 Green Crack VS 4c 191
82 Lumside Crack
-
S 77
83 The Lum VD 27
84 Bob Line E4 6a 4
85 Cascade
-
VS 5a 17
  Stacks Area - Cornflake Walls
87 Snotty Nose D 292
88 Pegless Wall HVS 4c 22
89 Old Peg Groove VS 4c * 152
90 Cornflake Wall
-
M * 254
91 Shredded Wheat VD 114
92 Rice Crispie Wall
-
D * 192
93 The Groove
-
D 154
Climb name Grade
94 Bombproof
-
S * 206
95 Blockproof
-
S 72
96 Blockbuster VD * 175
97 Doddle Diedre
-
S * 360
98 Stegosaurus VS 4c ** 373
99 Gibbon
-
HVS 5c * 76
100 Trapeze
-
VS 5b ** 145
101 Gorilla
-
E1 5c 2
  Stacks Area - Arch Wall
103 Bottemless Chimney
-
E3 6b  
104 Pipefish Wall
-
E3 6a * 9
105 Slab and Tickle
-
VD * 67
106 Giraffe Corner
-
E3 6a 21
107 Arch Wall E5 6b ** 9
108 Sandstone Wall
-
HVS 5a 13
109 Appletiser
-
HVS 5a * 14
110 Pomme de Terre HVS 5a 1
111 Le Crunch
-
E4 5c *  
112 Fourth Dimension E2 5c 3
113 Jewels Underground
-
E3 6a  
114 Brain Warp
-
E2 5c  
115 Puppet on a String
-
A3  
116 Bullworker
-
HVS 5a * 9
117 Archibold
-
E4 6a  
118 Expanders Crack VS 4c 7
  Stacks Area - Sunshine Wall
120 Easy Arete M 41
121 Sunshine Roof HS * 162
122 Sunshine Groove S 90
123 Sunshine
-
HVS 5b 30
124 Sunshine Recess
-
S 46
125 Gorse Route S 105
126 Sunshine Crack
-
VS 4c 51
127 Sunshine Extra
-
HS 4b 21
  The Stack
129 Captain Birdseye
-
E2 5b * 28
130 Fingers Wall
-
E3 5b 17
131 Fingers Wall (Direct Start)
-
E3 6a 5
132 Flying Buttress, Left Side VD 221
133 Flying Buttress, Right Side D 126
134 Flying Groove VS 4c * 103
135 The Prow E5 6a ** 20
136 Cutty Sark S 11
137 East Side Story
-
VD 14
138 Back Passage M 39
139 Dirty Old Man VD 9
140 Sunset Song HS 4b * 57
141 Footloose
-
VS 4c 8
142 Blocky VD 13
143 Butchers Broom
-
VS 4b * 16
144 Shadow Flake HVS 5a 7
145 Coach Bolt Crack
-
VS 4c 21
146 Huggy Bear
-
VS 4c 15
147 The Pedestal
-
f4 4
  The Sentinal Stack
149 Jutting Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 6
150 Vein Attraction
-
S 5
151 Ramp Route
-
S * 8
  Bouldering
  Bouldering - Orange Wall Area
154 Pipe Overhang f6A 6a ** 4
155 Pipe Slab f6A+ * 11
  Bouldering - Tunnel Area
157 Tunnel Vision f6A+ ** 15
158 The Darkness f6B 2
159 Bulgy f6B * 6
160 Bertie f6A+ 6a * 2
  Bouldering - Jaws Boulder
162 Jaws f7A 13
163 The Great White f6B+ ** 18
164 Bite Radius f6A+ * 4
165 Big Blue f6B 6a 5
  Bouldering - Prophet Area
167 The Rob Thomas f5+ 1
168 Naff Roof f6A 1
169 Toochie f6B+ 6b 5
170 Surf Nazis f6A+ 12
171 Bridge Defence f6A+ 2
172 The Shield f6C ** 20
173 Shield Ascension f7A * 3
174 Under Siege f6A 4
175 Attack Attack! f6C * 5
176 Batty Bat f6B+ 6b 8
177 Liam's Problem f7A+ ** 1
178 Masonic-Finger-Shake f6C+ ** 38
179 Jaded Arete Sit Start f6B 1
180 Palmist f6B+ ** 17
181 Highball
-
f6C * 2
182 Highball Arete f6A+ ** 27
183 The Arete between Centre and Right (right side) f5+ 5c 12
184 Sloper f6A 6a 8
185 99 Flake f6A 5
186 99 Flake stand start f4 3
Climb name Grade
187 Right up f3+ 6
188 The Low Down f6A 6a * 10
189 The Low Down Stand Start f5 2
190 Left Hand Legend Original f6B * 1
191 Left Hand Legend Variation f6A+ 1
192 Left Hand Shortcut f5 1
193 Bay Watch f7A  
  Bouldering - Balamory Boulder
195 Daffty f6A 6a 7
196 Miss Hoolie f3 4b 25
197 PC Pinch f6B 6b 30
198 Suzie Scoop f6A+ 6a 37
199 Penny Pocket f6B 6b * 52
200 Balamory Dyno f6B+ * 1
201 Josie Jump f6B 6b 10
202 Archie f3+ 5a 34
203 Edie McCredie f3 4b 32
204 Balamory Traverse
-
f5 5b 69
  Bouldering - Stacks Area
206 There's Something About Diana f6C+ ** 7
207 Taxi Driver f6B **  
208 Ultra Radical (boulder problem) f7A ** 2
209 Birdman f7A *** 46
210 Egret f6C * 7
211 The Stork f6C * 7
212 Pointer f6C * 1
213 The Nest (boulder problem) f6A+ *** 61
214 Claw f6A+ ** 7
215 Python V2 3
216 Boys On The Beach f6A+ * 12
217 Artful Dodger f5 5c 12
218 Bat Man f6B * 19
219 Robin f6A 6a 21
220 Doubt Wall Low Traverse f6A+ ** 4
  Bouldering - Corridor Cave
222 Feel the Lumens f7A *** 1
223 The Enemy Within f6C+ * 1
  Bouldering - Cave Area
225 Central Face Low Level Traverse none 5c ** 7
226 Pockets f5+ 8
227 Cave Man f6C+ ** 17
228 Cave Man - True Finish f7B ** 1
229 Sine Wave f7B ** 1
230 Gorilla f7A *** 14
231 Two Lager Hornsby f6C 1
232 Technically It's Not A Pigeon f6B * 4
233 Sciatica f6B ** 6
234 Randy the Cockerel f6C 2
235 Simoncelli f6B+ ** 15
236 Chao Sic f6C ** 4
237 Jam Crack f6A+  
238 Flying Arete f6A ** 7
239 Cave Beast f6A+ 10
240 Cave Arete f6A+ * 35
241 Ritchies Rockover f6C+ * 2
242 Buddha's Choice f6B ** 18
243 Space Invader f6B+ 1
244 KinkyBitch f6C ** 13
245 KinkyBitch SS f6C+ ** 1
246 Merlot Merlot f6B+ * 4
247 Time Zones f7B+ *** 1
248 Finger Licker f7A *** 13
249 The Crucifix f6B+ ** 8
250 Ginger Rides Again f7B *** 3
251 Match and Jerk f7A+ ** 1
252 Ginger Ninja f7A * 1
253 Match and Snatch f7A+ *** 18
254 Pipefish Wall (boulder problem) f6A * 7
255 Double Stretch f6A 6a * 12
256 Headbanger f5+ * 7
257 Double Jerk f6C+ * 2
258 A Jerk Too Far f6B 5
259 Jerker f6A ** 51
260 Jerkless f6A+ 6b * 6
261 Arch Wall (boulder problem)
-
f6A+ * 3
262 Pudding Prow f6B * 2
  Bouldering - Sunshine Wall Area
264 Sunshine Wall High 6b 16
265 Sunshine Wall Low 6c+  
266 Mr. Binney f4 5a 17
267 Illonas Crack f3 4a 22
268 Araldite f4 5a 17
269 Latifa f3 4b 16
270 Skunk Wall f4 5a 10
271 Buddah of Brodie f6B *  
272 Buddah of Brodie - low start f6C+ ** 2
273 Pip f6B 1
274 Martin's Arete f3 4b 10
275 Dougster f5+ 5b 5
  Bouldering - Cummingston West
277 Clash City Rockers f5 5b  
278 The Day The World Turned Dayglow f4+ 5b  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer TeddyC