Climbs 223
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)

Faces N

On site solo of a classic The Prow E5-6a? © Ron Walker

Crag features

Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening. [John Scott]

Approach notes

From Elgin  head for Hopeman (6miles  B9012 or similar). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children's play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards.

Access Advice

No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy.

First time here at the weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is good, lots of holds for both hands and feet and protection is more than adequate. Lovely place to climb!!
CyberTaff - 12/Aug/13
Since the storm last week some of beach levels in areas have changed the sit starts/landings to some problems. The balmory boulder level is lower, not sure of the affects. Over in the cave a lower start to Sciatica, simoncelli and technically.. are all possible. The landing below KinkyBitch has leveled off nicely covering up the large rocks. Below finger licker is a similar height but has levelled off between the rocks. The beach below Gorilla is slightly lower, not changing the start much. The landing below the Sunshine Slabs has been pulled apart quite a bit and will change the climbing considerably.
Callum_Johnson - 25/Dec/12
Having lead a few routes here, I'd say their are some rather over polarised views represented here. Some of the rock is indeed sound and produces sound very well protected climbs. Other areas it's utter choss with holds actually crumbling away as you step on them - with no 'proper' protection on whole climbs. Some common sense and caution is required for trad leading here.
CurlyStevo - 30/Jul/12
hey guys, i left a black evolv defy shoe at the cave, iff anyone finds it , please say! amazing place
HenryCowan - 27/Nov/11
Both previous comments are complete bollox. This is a standard trad leading crag NOT a SS-sh1te style top-roping crag. (Oh and bouldering of course). The gear is perfectly fine if you know what you're doing and place it well. If you can't do that, go somewhere else to learn to lead.
Fiend - 11/May/09
Loads of routes. Great area for top roping. Agree with previous comment about leading. Chances are pro wouldn't hold if you took a lead fall.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06
Amazing little sandstone crag on the firth with wonderful views. Very grippy with tons of friction. Great bouldering although i wouldn't lead anything there because of it's softness. Bit like East Sussex, good for top roping. Amazing views and fresh sea air.
JoHNY - 21/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Orange Wall Area 
2Orange Peel
E1 5b 7
3Route One
VS 4c 28
4Ginger Snap
HVS 4c 13
5Drainpipe Wall
E2 6b 4
E3 6a  
7Tangerine Scream
E5 6a 1
8Hickory Dickory Dock
E4 6a  
9Flakey Wall
E1 5a *20
10Route Two
E2 5b 6
E2 5c 4
12King Swing
E2 5c 4
E4 6b 1
14Power Stuggle
E5 6a  
 Gutbuster Bay 
16Beastie's WallHS 4a 9
17Middle Muddle Groove
D 12
18Middle Muddle DirectVS 5a 3
19Jugular WallHS 4b 6
20Mud, Sweat and TearsHS 4b 4
21Hernia Corner
E2 6a ** 
22Anal StretchE6 6b **1
E2 5c *1
E2 5c **4
25Kneewrecker ChimneyVS 4c **16
26Sea Witch
E3 5b  
27The Conjurer
E3 6a  
28Sandy VolestranglerE3 6b 1
29Dali's Wall
30The Melting Clock
E2 5c  
VS 4c 1
 Prophet Walls 
33The Gripper
HVS 5b *18
34Surf Nazis Must Die
E5 6b **1
35Aesthetic Ape
E4 6a **6
36Bat AttackE5 6a  
37Orange ApeE2 5c *13
38Statutory Ape
E6 6c ** 
39Bat's Wall
E4 6a ***17
40Monkey Mafia
E5 6b ***3
41The Noddy MachineE2 5b *7
42Noddy Machine (Mayne Line Start)
E3 6a  
43Jaded AreteE2 5c 5
44Triangular GrooveHVS 5a 7
45Border Crossing
HS 4b 11
46BorderlineVS 4c 35
E4 6b *12
48The ProphetE2 5c **139
E4 6a *2
E3 5c *30
51LeftVS 5a **267
52CentreVS 4b **350
53RightHVS 5b **254
 Stacks Area - Tapered Wall 
55Mr TweetE3 6b ** 
56The Nest
E2 6a *5
 Stacks Area - Doubt Wall 
58Doubtless WallS *313
59The Artful Dodger
HVS 5a 51
60Diedre of DoubtHVS 5a **162
61Diedre of Double DoubtE2 5b **57
62Doubting Thomas
E2 5b 15
63Staircase CrackS 250
64Green CrackVS 4c 141
65Lumside Crack
S 66
66The LumVD 18
VS 5a 17
 Stacks Area - Cornflake Walls 
69Snotty NoseD 241
70Pegless WallHVS 4c 19
71Old Peg GrooveVS 4c *115
72Cornflake Wall
M *209
73Shredded WheatVD 93
74Rice Crispie Wall
D *162
75The Groove
D 137
S *176
S 65
78BlockbusterVD *149
79Doddle Diedre
S *307
80StegosaurusVS 4c **308
HVS 5c *63
VS 5b *130
 Stacks Area - Arch Wall 
84Bottemless Chimney
E3 6b  
85Pipefish Wall
E3 6a *9
86Slab and Tickle
VD *52
87Giraffe Corner
E3 6a 17
88Arch WallE5 6b **5
89Sandstone Wall
HVS 5a 10
HVS 5a *8
91Le Crunch
E4 5c * 
92Fourth DimensionE2 5c 3
93Jewels Underground
E3 6a  
94Brain Warp
E2 5c  
95Puppet on a String
HVS 5a *9
E4 6a  
98Expanders CrackVS 4c 4
 Stacks Area - Sunshine Wall 
100Easy AreteM 36
101Sunshine RoofHS *127
102Sunshine GrooveS 66
HVS 5b 24
104Sunshine Recess
S 41
105Gorse RouteS 87
106Sunshine Crack
VS 4c 37
107Sunshine Extra
HS 4b 19
 The Stack 
109Captain Birdseye
E2 5b *24
110Fingers Wall
E3 5b 13
111Fingers Wall (Direct Start)
E3 6a 3
112Flying Buttress, Left SideVD 176
113Flying Buttress, Right SideD 100
114Flying GrooveVS 4c *86
115The ProwE5 6a **18
116Cutty SarkS 11
117East Side Story
VD 12
118Back PassageM 38
119Dirty Old ManVD 7
120Sunset SongHS 4b *53
VS 4c 6
122BlockyVD 7
123Butchers Broom
VS 4b *15
124Shadow FlakeHVS 5a 7
125Coach Bolt Crack
VS 4c 19
126Huggy Bear
VS 4c 15
127The Pedestal
f4 4
 The Sentinal Stack 
129Jutting Flake Crack
HS 4b 6
130Vein Attraction
S 5
131Ramp Route
S *5
 Bouldering - Orange WAll Area 
134Pipe Overhangf6A **3
135Pipe Slabf6A+ *8
 Bouldering - Tunnel Area 
137Tunnel Visionf6A+ **12
138The Darknessf6B 2
139Bulgyf6B *6
140Bertief6A+ *1
 Bouldering - Prophet Area 
142Jawsf7A **13
143The Great Whitef6B+ **14
144Bite Radiusf6A+ *2
145Big Bluef6B 5
146Toochief6B+ 5
147Surf Nazisf6C **11
148Bridge Defencef6A+ 1
149The Shieldf6C *16
150Under Siegef6A 4
151Attack Attack!f6C *4
152Batty Batf6B+ 7
153Masonic-Finger-Shakef6C+ ***38
154Palmistf6B+ 15
f6C *2
156Highball Aretef6A+ 24
157The Arete between Centre and Right (right side)f5+ 9
158Sloperf6A 7
15999 Flakef6A 2
16099 Flake stand startf4 2
161Right upf3+ 3
162The Low Downf6A *9
163The Low Down Stand Startf5 1
164Left Hand Legend Originalf6B *1
165Left Hand Legend Variationf6A+ 1
166Left Hand Shortcutf5 1
167Bay Watchf7A  
 Bouldering - Balamory Boulder 
169Dafftyf6A 6
170Miss Hoolief3 17
171PC Pinchf6B 21
172Suzie Scoopf6A+ 20
173Penny Pocketf6B *34
174Josie Jumpf6B 9
175Archief3+ 22
176Edie McCredief3 20
177Balamory Traverse
f5 56
 Bouldering - Stacks Area 
179There's Something About Dianaf6C+ **6
180Birdmanf7A **38
181Egretf6C *7
182The Storkf6C *3
183The Nest (boulder problem)f6A **45
184Clawf6A+ ***5
185PythonV2 2
186Boys On The Beachf6A+ *5
187Artful Dodgerf5 7
188Bat Manf6B *13
189Robinf6A 16
 Bouldering - Cave Area 
191Central Face Low Level Traversenone 5c **2
192Pocketsf5+ 8
193Cave Manf6C **12
194Gorillaf7A **11
195Technically It's Not A Pigeonf6B *4
196Sciaticaf6B **6
197Simoncellif6B+ **14
198Chao Sicf6C **4
199Cave Beastf6A 10
200Cave Aretef6A+ *34
201Ritchies Rockoverf6C+ **2
202Buddha's Choicef6B **14
203KinkyBitchf6C **11
204Finger Lickerf7A ***14
205The Crucifixf6B **5
206Ginger Rides Againf7B **3
207Match and Snatchf7A+ ***13
208Crackf6A+ *5
209Double Stretchf6A *12
210A Jerk Too Farf6B 3
211Jerkerf6A 45
212Jerklessf6A+ *5
213Pipefish Wall (boulder problem)
f6A *2
f5+ *6
215Arch Wall (boulder problem)
f6A+ *3
216Pudding Prowf6B **1
 Bouldering - Sunshine Wall Area 
218Sunshine Wallf5+ 14
219Mr. Binneyf4 14
220Illonas Crackf3 19
221Aralditef4 14
222Latifaf3 13
223Skunk Wallf4 7
224Buddah of Brodief6B * 
225Pipf6B 1
226Martin's Aretef3 8
227Dougsterf5+ 4
 Bouldering - Cummingston West 
229Clash City Rockersf5  
230The Day The World Turned Dayglowf4+  
231Toms Wall CummingstonS 1
232The Beast *E2 5b 1
233Pointer *f6B+ 1
234Merlot Merlot *f6B+ *2
235Sine Wavef7B  
236Ginger Ninja *f7A  
237Ultra RadicalE5 6c 2
238Randy the Cockerelf6C 1
239Flying Arete *f6A **1
240Feel the Lumens *f7A ***1
241The Enemy Within *f6C+ **1
242Buddah of Brodie - low start *f7A **2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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