Climbs 239
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)

Faces N

On site solo of a classic The Prow E5-6a? © Ron Walker

Crag features

Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening. [John Scott]

Approach notes

From Elgin  head for Hopeman (6miles  B9012 or similar). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children's play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards.

Access Advice

No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy.

First time here at the weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is good, lots of holds for both hands and feet and protection is more than adequate. Lovely place to climb!!
CyberTaff - 12/Aug/13
Since the storm last week some of beach levels in areas have changed the sit starts/landings to some problems. The balmory boulder level is lower, not sure of the affects. Over in the cave a lower start to Sciatica, simoncelli and technically.. are all possible. The landing below KinkyBitch has leveled off nicely covering up the large rocks. Below finger licker is a similar height but has levelled off between the rocks. The beach below Gorilla is slightly lower, not changing the start much. The landing below the Sunshine Slabs has been pulled apart quite a bit and will change the climbing considerably.
Callum_Johnson - 25/Dec/12
Having lead a few routes here, I'd say their are some rather over polarised views represented here. Some of the rock is indeed sound and produces sound very well protected climbs. Other areas it's utter choss with holds actually crumbling away as you step on them - with no 'proper' protection on whole climbs. Some common sense and caution is required for trad leading here.
CurlyStevo - 30/Jul/12
hey guys, i left a black evolv defy shoe at the cave, iff anyone finds it , please say! amazing place
HenryCowan - 27/Nov/11
Both previous comments are complete bollox. This is a standard trad leading crag NOT a SS-sh1te style top-roping crag. (Oh and bouldering of course). The gear is perfectly fine if you know what you're doing and place it well. If you can't do that, go somewhere else to learn to lead.
Fiend - 11/May/09
Loads of routes. Great area for top roping. Agree with previous comment about leading. Chances are pro wouldn't hold if you took a lead fall.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06
Amazing little sandstone crag on the firth with wonderful views. Very grippy with tons of friction. Great bouldering although i wouldn't lead anything there because of it's softness. Bit like East Sussex, good for top roping. Amazing views and fresh sea air.
JoHNY - 21/Jul/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Orange Wall Area
2 Orange Peel
-
E1 5b 7
3 Route One
-
VS 4c 28
4 Ginger Snap
-
HVS 4c 13
5 Drainpipe Wall
-
E2 6b 4
6 Thumper
-
E3 6a  
7 Tangerine Scream
-
E5 6a 1
8 Hickory Dickory Dock
-
E4 6a  
9 Flakey Wall
-
E1 5a * 21
10 Route Two
-
E2 5b 6
11 Skelp
-
E2 5c 4
12 King Swing
-
E2 5c 5
13 Beserker
-
E4 6b 1
14 Power Stuggle
-
E5 6a  
  Gutbuster Bay
16 Beastie's Wall HS 4a 9
17 The Beast E2 5b 1
18 Middle Muddle Groove
-
D 13
19 Middle Muddle Direct VS 5a 3
20 Jugular Wall HS 4b 6
21 Mud, Sweat and Tears HS 4b 4
22 Hernia Corner
-
E2 6a **  
23 Anal Stretch E6 6b ** 1
24 Legbuster
-
E2 5c * 1
25 Gutbuster
-
E2 5c ** 4
26 Kneewrecker Chimney VS 4c ** 17
27 Sea Witch
-
E3 5b  
28 The Conjurer
-
E3 6a  
29 Sandy Volestrangler E3 6b 1
30 Dali's Wall
-
HS  
31 The Melting Clock
-
E2 5c  
32 Sidle
-
VS 4c 1
  Prophet Walls
34 Crown of Thorns VS 5a  
35 The Gripper
-
HVS 5b * 20
36 Surf Nazis Must Die
-
E5 6b ** 1
37 Aesthetic Ape
-
E4 6a ** 6
38 Bat Attack E5 6a  
39 Orange Ape E2 5c * 15
40 Statutory Ape
-
E6 6c **  
41 Bat's Wall
-
E4 6a *** 20
42 Monkey Mafia
-
E5 6b *** 3
43 The Noddy Machine E2 5b * 7
44 Noddy Machine (Mayne Line Start)
-
E3 6a  
45 Jaded Arete E2 5c 5
46 Triangular Groove HVS 5a 8
47 Border Crossing
-
HS 4b 11
48 Borderline VS 4c 36
49 Palmist
-
E4 6b * 14
50 The Prophet E2 5c ** 155
51 Africa
-
E4 6a * 3
52 I-Ching
-
E3 5c * 34
53 Left VS 5a ** 286
54 Centre VS 4b ** 374
55 Right HVS 5b ** 274
56 Spare Rib
-
HVS 4c *  
57 Yoohah
-
VS 5a 2
  Stacks Area - Tapered Wall
59 Toms Wall S 1
60 Graffiti Wall
-
VD 1
61 Pretty Flamingo
-
E1 5c  
62 Mr Tweet E3 6b **  
63 Ultra Radical E5 6c 2
64 The Nest
-
E2 6a * 5
65 Smelly Fish Crack HS  
  Stacks Area - Doubt Wall
67 Doubtless Wall S * 335
68 The Artful Dodger
-
HVS 5a 56
69 Diedre of Doubt HVS 5a ** 174
70 Diedre of Double Doubt E2 5b ** 68
71 Doubting Thomas
-
E2 5b 17
72 Staircase Crack S 272
73 Green Crack VS 4c 152
74 Lumside Crack
-
S 70
75 The Lum VD 19
76 Cascade
-
VS 5a 17
  Stacks Area - Cornflake Walls
78 Snotty Nose D 252
79 Pegless Wall HVS 4c 19
80 Old Peg Groove VS 4c * 121
81 Cornflake Wall
-
M * 218
82 Shredded Wheat VD 101
83 Rice Crispie Wall
-
D * 167
84 The Groove
-
D 144
85 Bombproof
-
S * 186
86 Blockproof
-
S 66
87 Blockbuster VD * 155
88 Doddle Diedre
-
S * 327
89 Stegosaurus VS 4c ** 333
90 Gibbon
-
HVS 5c * 67
91 Trapeze
-
VS 5b ** 136
92 Gorilla
-
E1 5c 2
  Stacks Area - Arch Wall
94 Bottemless Chimney
-
E3 6b  
95 Pipefish Wall
-
E3 6a * 9
96 Slab and Tickle
-
VD * 59
97 Giraffe Corner
-
E3 6a 19
98 Arch Wall E5 6b ** 7
99 Sandstone Wall
-
HVS 5a 10
100 Appletiser
-
HVS 5a * 8
101 Pomme de Terre HVS 5a  
102 Le Crunch
-
E4 5c *  
103 Fourth Dimension E2 5c 3
104 Jewels Underground
-
E3 6a  
105 Brain Warp
-
E2 5c  
106 Puppet on a String
-
A3  
107 Bullworker
-
HVS 5a * 9
108 Archibold
-
E4 6a  
109 Expanders Crack VS 4c 5
  Stacks Area - Sunshine Wall
111 Easy Arete M 37
112 Sunshine Roof HS * 130
113 Sunshine Groove S 73
114 Sunshine
-
HVS 5b 24
115 Sunshine Recess
-
S 44
116 Gorse Route S 93
117 Sunshine Crack
-
VS 4c 41
118 Sunshine Extra
-
HS 4b 20
  The Stack
120 Captain Birdseye
-
E2 5b * 27
121 Fingers Wall
-
E3 5b 15
122 Fingers Wall (Direct Start)
-
E3 6a 3
123 Flying Buttress, Left Side VD 188
124 Flying Buttress, Right Side D 110
125 Flying Groove VS 4c * 87
126 The Prow E5 6a ** 24
127 Cutty Sark S 11
128 East Side Story
-
VD 12
129 Back Passage M 37
130 Dirty Old Man VD 7
131 Sunset Song HS 4b * 57
132 Footloose
-
VS 4c 6
133 Blocky VD 8
134 Butchers Broom
-
VS 4b * 15
135 Shadow Flake HVS 5a 7
136 Coach Bolt Crack
-
VS 4c 19
137 Huggy Bear
-
VS 4c 15
138 The Pedestal
-
f4 4
  The Sentinal Stack
140 Jutting Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 6
141 Vein Attraction
-
S 5
142 Ramp Route
-
S * 6
  Bouldering
  Bouldering - Orange Wall Area
145 Pipe Overhang f6A 6a ** 4
146 Pipe Slab f6A+ * 10
  Bouldering - Tunnel Area
148 Tunnel Vision f6A+ ** 14
149 The Darkness f6B 2
150 Bulgy f6B * 6
151 Bertie f6A+ 6a * 1
  Bouldering - Jaws Boulder
153 Jaws f7A 13
154 The Great White f6B+ ** 18
155 Bite Radius f6A+ * 4
156 Big Blue f6B 6a 5
  Bouldering - Prophet Area
158 The Rob Thomas f5+ 1
159 Naff Roof f6A 1
160 Toochie f6B+ 6b 5
161 Surf Nazis f6C * 12
162 Bridge Defence f6A+ 2
163 The Shield f6C ** 18
164 Shield Ascension f7A * 1
165 Under Siege f6A 4
166 Attack Attack! f6C * 5
167 Batty Bat f6B+ 6b 8
168 Masonic-Finger-Shake f6C+ ** 37
169 Palmist f6B+ ** 16
170 Highball
-
f6C * 2
171 Highball Arete f6A+ ** 24
172 The Arete between Centre and Right (right side) f5+ 5c 9
173 Sloper f6A 6a 7
174 99 Flake f6A 2
175 99 Flake stand start f4 2
176 Right up f3+ 3
177 The Low Down f6A 6a * 9
178 The Low Down Stand Start f5 1
179 Left Hand Legend Original f6B * 1
180 Left Hand Legend Variation f6A+ 1
181 Left Hand Shortcut f5 1
182 Bay Watch f7A  
  Bouldering - Balamory Boulder
184 Daffty f6A 6a 6
185 Miss Hoolie f3 4b 17
186 PC Pinch f6B 6b 23
187 Suzie Scoop f6A+ 6a 22
188 Penny Pocket f6B 6b * 39
189 Balamory Dyno f6B+ * 1
190 Josie Jump f6B 6b 9
191 Archie f3+ 5a 23
192 Edie McCredie f3 4b 23
193 Balamory Traverse
-
f5 5b 59
  Bouldering - Stacks Area
195 There's Something About Diana f6C+ ** 5
196 Birdman f7A *** 37
197 Egret f6C * 7
198 The Stork f6C * 4
199 Pointer f6C * 1
200 The Nest (boulder problem) f6A *** 50
201 Claw f6A+ ** 5
202 Python V2 2
203 Boys On The Beach f6A+ * 8
204 Artful Dodger f5 5c 9
205 Bat Man f6B * 14
206 Robin f6A 6a 17
  Bouldering - Corridor Cave
208 Feel the Lumens f7A *** 1
209 The Enemy Within f6C+ * 1
  Bouldering - Cave Area
211 Central Face Low Level Traverse none 5c ** 3
212 Pockets f5+ 8
213 Cave Man f6C+ ** 15
214 Cave Man - True Finish f7B ** 1
215 Sine Wave f7B ** 1
216 Gorilla f7A ** 14
217 Two Lager Hornsby f6C 1
218 Technically It's Not A Pigeon f6B * 4
219 Sciatica f6B ** 6
220 Randy the Cockerel f6C 2
221 Simoncelli f6B+ ** 15
222 Chao Sic f6C ** 4
223 Flying Arete f6A ** 3
224 Cave Beast f6A+ 10
225 Cave Arete f6A+ * 34
226 Ritchies Rockover f6C+ * 2
227 Buddha's Choice f6B ** 16
228 Space Invader f6B+ 1
229 KinkyBitch f6C ** 13
230 KinkyBitch SS f6C+ ** 1
231 Merlot Merlot f6B+ * 3
232 Finger Licker f7A *** 12
233 The Crucifix f6B+ ** 7
234 Ginger Rides Again f7B *** 3
235 Ginger Ninja f7A **  
236 Match and Snatch f7A+ *** 13
237 Crack f6A+ * 5
238 Double Stretch f6A 6a * 12
239 A Jerk Too Far f6B 4
240 Jerker f6A ** 46
241 Jerkless f6A+ 6b * 5
242 Pipefish Wall (boulder problem)
-
f6A 6a * 2
243 Headbanger
-
f5+ 5c * 6
244 Arch Wall (boulder problem)
-
f6A+ * 3
245 Pudding Prow f6B * 1
  Bouldering - Sunshine Wall Area
247 Sunshine Wall f5+ 5b 15
248 Mr. Binney f4 5a 15
249 Illonas Crack f3 4a 20
250 Araldite f4 5a 15
251 Latifa f3 4b 14
252 Skunk Wall f4 5a 8
253 Buddah of Brodie f6B *  
254 Buddah of Brodie - low start f6C+ ** 1
255 Pip f6B 1
256 Martin's Arete f3 4b 9
257 Dougster f5+ 5b 5
  Bouldering - Cummingston West
259 Clash City Rockers f5 5b  
260 The Day The World Turned Dayglow f4+ 5b  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer TeddyC