Climbs 259
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces N

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On site solo of a classic The Prow E5-6a? © Ron Walker

Crag features

Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening. [John Scott]

For boulderers-

Please clean excess chalk off holds as it'll congiel in the condensation (see Fingerlicker). Likewise for tickmarks.

Approach notes

From Elgin  head for Hopeman (6miles  B9012 or similar). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children's play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards.

Access Advice

No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy.

First time here at the weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is good, lots of holds for both hands and feet and protection is more than adequate. Lovely place to climb!!
CyberTaff - 12/Aug/13
Since the storm last week some of beach levels in areas have changed the sit starts/landings to some problems. The balmory boulder level is lower, not sure of the affects. Over in the cave a lower start to Sciatica, simoncelli and technically.. are all possible. The landing below KinkyBitch has leveled off nicely covering up the large rocks. Below finger licker is a similar height but has levelled off between the rocks. The beach below Gorilla is slightly lower, not changing the start much. The landing below the Sunshine Slabs has been pulled apart quite a bit and will change the climbing considerably.
Callum_Johnson - 25/Dec/12
Having lead a few routes here, I'd say their are some rather over polarised views represented here. Some of the rock is indeed sound and produces sound very well protected climbs. Other areas it's utter choss with holds actually crumbling away as you step on them - with no 'proper' protection on whole climbs. Some common sense and caution is required for trad leading here.
CurlyStevo - 30/Jul/12
hey guys, i left a black evolv defy shoe at the cave, iff anyone finds it , please say! amazing place
HenryCowan - 27/Nov/11
Both previous comments are complete bollox. This is a standard trad leading crag NOT a SS-sh1te style top-roping crag. (Oh and bouldering of course). The gear is perfectly fine if you know what you're doing and place it well. If you can't do that, go somewhere else to learn to lead.
Fiend - 11/May/09
Loads of routes. Great area for top roping. Agree with previous comment about leading. Chances are pro wouldn't hold if you took a lead fall.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06
Amazing little sandstone crag on the firth with wonderful views. Very grippy with tons of friction. Great bouldering although i wouldn't lead anything there because of it's softness. Bit like East Sussex, good for top roping. Amazing views and fresh sea air.
JoHNY - 21/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Orange Wall Area
2 Orange Peel
-
E1 5b 7
3 Route One VS 4c 31
4 Ginger Snap
-
HVS 4c 13
5 Drainpipe Wall
-
E2 6b 4
6 Thumper
-
E3 6a 1
7 Tangerine Scream
-
E5 6a 2
8 Hickory Dickory Dock
-
E4 6a 1
9 Flakey Wall E1 5a * 22
10 Route Two
-
E2 5b 6
11 Skelp
-
E2 5c 4
12 King Swing
-
E2 5c 5
13 Beserker
-
E4 6b 1
14 Power Stuggle
-
E5 6a  
  Gutbuster Bay
16 Beastie's Wall HS 4a 11
17 The Beast E2 5b 1
18 Middle Muddle Groove
-
D 15
19 Middle Muddle Direct VS 5a 4
20 Jugular Wall HS 4b 8
21 Mud, Sweat and Tears HS 4b 5
22 Hernia Corner
-
E2 6a ** 1
23 Anal Stretch E6 6b ** 1
24 Legbuster
-
E2 5c * 1
25 Gutbuster
-
E2 5c ** 6
26 Kneewrecker Chimney VS 4c ** 20
27 Mind Bender E4 6a ** 2
28 Sea Witch
-
E3 5b  
29 The Conjurer
-
E3 6a  
30 Sandy Volestrangler E3 6b 2
31 The Grab none 6b 2
32 Dali's Wall
-
HS  
33 The Melting Clock
-
E2 5c  
34 Bunny Boiler 7a+ s2/3 **  
35 Evilness 7b s2/3 *  
36 Sidle
-
VS 4c 1
  Prophet Walls
38 Crown of Thorns VS 5a 1
39 Atcha E3 6a 1
40 The Gripper HVS 5b * 28
41 Surf Nazis Must Die E5 6b ** 2
42 Aesthetic Ape
-
E4 6a ** 8
43 Bat Attack E5 6a 1
44 Orange Ape E2 5c ** 19
45 Statutory Ape E6 6c ** 1
46 Bat's Wall E4 6a *** 21
47 Bat Mafia Link E5 6b ** 4
48 Monkey Mafia E5 6b *** 3
49 Herd Mentality E5 6b 1
50 Noddy Machine (Mayne Line Start) E3 6a * 2
51 The Noddy Machine E2 5b ** 7
52 Jaded Arete E2 5c 5
53 Triangular Groove HVS 5a 8
54 Border Crossing
-
HS 4b 12
55 Borderline VS 4c 49
56 Palmist E4 6b * 17
57 The Prophet E2 5c ** 196
58 Africa E4 6a 5
59 I-Ching E3 5c ** 40
60 Left VS 5a ** 343
61 Buda's Arete HVS 5b 2
62 Centre VS 4b ** 439
63 Yorkshire Grip E2 6a  
64 Right HVS 5b ** 328
65 Spare Rib HVS 4c * 1
66 Yoohah
-
VS 5a 2
  Stacks Area - Tapered Wall
68 Toms Wall S 1
69 Graffiti Wall
-
VD 1
70 Pretty Flamingo
-
E1 5c  
71 Mr Tweet E3 6b **  
72 Ultra Radical E5 6c 3
73 The Nest E2 6a * 5
74 Smelly Fish Crack HS  
  Stacks Area - Doubt Wall
76 Doubtless Wall S * 403
77 The Artful Dodger
-
HVS 5a 69
78 Diedre of Doubt HVS 5a ** 224
79 Diedre of Double Doubt E2 5b ** 89
80 Doubting Thomas
-
E2 5b 23
81 Staircase Crack S 317
82 Green Crack VS 4c 200
83 Lumside Crack
-
S 78
84 The Lum VD 28
85 Bob Line E4 6a 4
86 Cascade
-
VS 5a 17
  Stacks Area - Cornflake Walls
88 Snotty Nose D 305
89 Pegless Wall HVS 4c 22
90 Old Peg Groove VS 4c * 156
91 Cornflake Wall
-
M * 264
92 Shredded Wheat VD 118
93 Rice Crispie Wall
-
D * 195
94 The Groove
-
D 156
Climb name Grade
95 Bombproof
-
S * 214
96 Blockproof
-
S 77
97 Blockbuster VD * 184
98 Doddle Diedre
-
S * 368
99 Stegosaurus VS 4c ** 386
100 Gibbon
-
HVS 5c * 77
101 Trapeze
-
VS 5b ** 148
102 Gorilla
-
E1 5c 2
  Stacks Area - Arch Wall
104 Bottemless Chimney
-
E3 6b  
105 Pipefish Wall
-
E3 6a * 9
106 Slab and Tickle
-
VD * 68
107 Giraffe Corner
-
E3 6a 21
108 Arch Wall E5 6b ** 10
109 Sandstone Wall
-
HVS 5a 13
110 Appletiser
-
HVS 5a * 15
111 Pomme de Terre HVS 5a 1
112 Le Crunch
-
E4 5c * 1
113 Fourth Dimension E2 5c 3
114 Jewels Underground
-
E3 6a  
115 Brain Warp
-
E2 5c  
116 Puppet on a String
-
A3  
117 Bullworker
-
HVS 5a * 10
118 Archibold
-
E4 6a  
119 Expanders Crack VS 4c 7
  Stacks Area - Sunshine Wall
121 Easy Arete M 44
122 Sunshine Roof HS * 168
123 Sunshine Groove S 92
124 Sunshine
-
HVS 5b 30
125 Sunshine Recess
-
S 47
126 Gorse Route S 108
127 Sunshine Crack
-
VS 4c 53
128 Sunshine Extra
-
HS 4b 22
  The Stack
130 Captain Birdseye
-
E2 5b * 28
131 Fingers Wall
-
E3 5b 17
132 Fingers Wall (Direct Start)
-
E3 6a 5
133 Flying Buttress, Left Side VD 237
134 Flying Buttress, Right Side D 131
135 Flying Groove VS 4c * 109
136 The Prow E5 6a ** 20
137 Cutty Sark S 11
138 East Side Story
-
VD 15
139 Back Passage M 39
140 Dirty Old Man VD 9
141 Sunset Song HS 4b * 59
142 Footloose
-
VS 4c 8
143 Blocky VD 13
144 Butchers Broom
-
VS 4b * 16
145 Shadow Flake HVS 5a 7
146 Coach Bolt Crack
-
VS 4c 21
147 Huggy Bear
-
VS 4c 15
148 The Pedestal
-
f4 4
  The Sentinal Stack
150 Jutting Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 6
151 Vein Attraction
-
S 5
152 Ramp Route
-
S * 8
  Bouldering
  Bouldering - Orange Wall Area
155 Pipe Overhang f6A 6a ** 5
156 Pipe Slab f6A+ * 11
  Bouldering - Tunnel Area
158 Tunnel Vision f6A+ ** 15
159 The Darkness f6B 2
160 Bulgy f6B * 6
161 Bertie f6A+ 6a * 2
  Bouldering - Jaws Boulder
163 Jaws f7A 14
164 The Great White f6B+ ** 20
165 Bite Radius f6A+ * 5
166 Big Blue f6B 6a 5
  Bouldering - Prophet Area
168 The Rob Thomas f5+ 1
169 Naff Roof f6A 1
170 Toochie f6B+ 6b 5
171 Surf Nazis f6A+ 15
172 Bridge Defence f6A+ 2
173 The Shield f6C ** 21
174 Shield Ascension f7A * 3
175 Under Siege f6A 4
176 Attack Attack! f6C * 6
177 Batty Bat f6B+ 6b 8
178 Liam's Problem f7A+ ** 1
179 Masonic-Finger-Shake f6C+ ** 40
180 Jaded Arete Sit Start f6B 1
181 Palmist f6B+ ** 18
182 Highball
-
f6C * 2
183 Highball Arete f6A+ ** 28
184 The Arete between Centre and Right (right side) f5+ 5c 14
185 Sloper f6A 6a 9
186 99 Flake f6A 5
187 99 Flake stand start f4 3
188 Right up f3+ 6
Climb name Grade
189 The Low Down f6A 6a * 10
190 The Low Down Stand Start f5 2
191 Left Hand Legend Original f6B * 1
192 Left Hand Legend Variation f6A+ 1
193 Left Hand Shortcut f5 1
194 Bay Watch f7A  
  Bouldering - Balamory Boulder
196 Daffty f6A 6a 7
197 Miss Hoolie f3 4b 26
198 PC Pinch f6B 6b 30
199 Suzie Scoop f6A+ 6a 38
200 Penny Pocket f6B 6b * 56
201 Balamory Dyno f6B+ * 2
202 Josie Jump f6B 6b 11
203 Archie f3+ 5a 35
204 Edie McCredie f3 4b 32
205 Balamory Traverse
-
f5 5b 71
  Bouldering - Stacks Area
207 There's Something About Diana f6C+ ** 8
208 Taxi Driver f6B **  
209 Ultra Radical (boulder problem) f7A ** 2
210 Birdman f7A *** 48
211 Egret f6C * 7
212 The Stork f6C * 8
213 Pointer f6C * 1
214 The Nest (boulder problem) f6A+ *** 63
215 Claw f6A+ ** 7
216 Python V2 3
217 Boys On The Beach f6A+ * 13
218 Artful Dodger f5 5c 12
219 Bat Man f6B * 20
220 Robin f6A 6a 21
221 Doubt Wall Low Traverse f6A+ ** 5
  Bouldering - Corridor Cave
223 Feel the Lumens f7A *** 1
224 The Enemy Within f6C+ * 1
  Bouldering - Cave Area
226 Central Face Low Level Traverse none 5c ** 7
227 Pockets f5+ 8
228 Cave Man f6C+ ** 17
229 Cave Man - True Finish f7B ** 1
230 Sine Wave f7B ** 1
231 Gorilla f7A *** 14
232 Two Lager Hornsby f6C 1
233 Technically It's Not A Pigeon f6B * 4
234 Sciatica f6B ** 6
235 Randy the Cockerel f6C 2
236 Simoncelli f6B+ ** 15
237 Chao Sic f6C ** 5
238 Jam Crack f6A+  
239 Flying Arete f6A ** 10
240 Cave Beast f6A+ 10
241 Cave Arete f6A+ * 35
242 Ritchies Rockover f6C+ * 2
243 Buddha's Choice f6B ** 19
244 Space Invader f6B+ 1
245 KinkyBitch f6C ** 13
246 KinkyBitch SS f6C+ ** 1
247 Merlot Merlot f6B+ * 4
248 Time Zones f7B+ *** 1
249 Finger Licker f7A *** 13
250 The Crucifix f6B+ *** 8
251 Ginger Rides Again f7B *** 3
252 Match and Jerk f7A+ ** 1
253 Ginger Ninja f7A * 1
254 Match and Snatch f7A+ *** 19
255 Pipefish Wall (boulder problem) f6A * 7
256 Double Stretch f6A 6a * 12
257 Headbanger f5+ * 7
258 Double Jerk f6C+ * 3
259 A Jerk Too Far f6B 6
260 Jerker f6A ** 53
261 Jerkless f6A+ 6b * 7
262 Arch Wall (boulder problem)
-
f6A+ * 3
263 Pudding Prow f6B * 2
  Bouldering - Sunshine Wall Area
265 Sunshine Wall Super Low 6c+ 4
266 Sunshine Wall Low 6b+ 16
267 Sunshine Wall High 6a+  
268 Mr. Binney f4 5a 17
269 Illonas Crack f3 4a 22
270 Araldite f4 5a 18
271 Latifa f3 4b 17
272 Skunk Wall f4 5a 11
273 Buddah of Brodie f6B *  
274 Buddah of Brodie - low start f6C+ ** 2
275 Pip f6B 1
276 Martin's Arete f3 4b 10
277 Dougster f5+ 5b 6
  Bouldering - Cummingston West
279 Clash City Rockers f5 5b  
280 The Day The World Turned Dayglow f4+ 5b  

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