UKC

Climbs 249
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 6m a.s.l
Faces N

On site solo of a classic The Prow E5-6a? © Ron Walker

Crag features

Well known as the place to come if the weather is a bit miserable in the area as the Moray coast is usually clear. Gets a lot of sun despite its mainly north aspect. The most popular routes get the sun in the evening. [John Scott]

For boulderers-

Please clean excess chalk off holds as it'll congiel in the condensation (see Fingerlicker). Likewise for tickmarks.

Approach notes

From Elgin  head for Hopeman (6miles  B9012 or similar). Pass through Hopeman to Cummingston and take a R just before the white memorial at the RHS of the road. This leads to a small car park with children's play area. The climbing is 5 mins from here along a disused railway to the west for a couple of hundred yards.

Access Advice

No access problems, but watch your footing on the way down as it can be slippy.

First time here at the weekend and was pleasantly surprised. Rock is good, lots of holds for both hands and feet and protection is more than adequate. Lovely place to climb!!
CyberTaff - 12/Aug/13
Since the storm last week some of beach levels in areas have changed the sit starts/landings to some problems. The balmory boulder level is lower, not sure of the affects. Over in the cave a lower start to Sciatica, simoncelli and technically.. are all possible. The landing below KinkyBitch has leveled off nicely covering up the large rocks. Below finger licker is a similar height but has levelled off between the rocks. The beach below Gorilla is slightly lower, not changing the start much. The landing below the Sunshine Slabs has been pulled apart quite a bit and will change the climbing considerably.
Callum_Johnson - 25/Dec/12
Having lead a few routes here, I'd say their are some rather over polarised views represented here. Some of the rock is indeed sound and produces sound very well protected climbs. Other areas it's utter choss with holds actually crumbling away as you step on them - with no 'proper' protection on whole climbs. Some common sense and caution is required for trad leading here.
CurlyStevo - 30/Jul/12
hey guys, i left a black evolv defy shoe at the cave, iff anyone finds it , please say! amazing place
HenryCowan - 27/Nov/11
Both previous comments are complete bollox. This is a standard trad leading crag NOT a SS-sh1te style top-roping crag. (Oh and bouldering of course). The gear is perfectly fine if you know what you're doing and place it well. If you can't do that, go somewhere else to learn to lead.
Fiend - 11/May/09
Loads of routes. Great area for top roping. Agree with previous comment about leading. Chances are pro wouldn't hold if you took a lead fall.
Mick Townshend - 08/Jun/06
Amazing little sandstone crag on the firth with wonderful views. Very grippy with tons of friction. Great bouldering although i wouldn't lead anything there because of it's softness. Bit like East Sussex, good for top roping. Amazing views and fresh sea air.
JoHNY - 21/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Orange Wall Area
2 Orange Peel
-
E1 5b 7
3 Route One VS 4c 30
4 Ginger Snap
-
HVS 4c 13
5 Drainpipe Wall
-
E2 6b 4
6 Thumper
-
E3 6a  
7 Tangerine Scream
-
E5 6a 1
8 Hickory Dickory Dock
-
E4 6a  
9 Flakey Wall E1 5a * 21
10 Route Two
-
E2 5b 6
11 Skelp
-
E2 5c 4
12 King Swing
-
E2 5c 5
13 Beserker
-
E4 6b 1
14 Power Stuggle
-
E5 6a  
  Gutbuster Bay
16 Beastie's Wall HS 4a 11
17 The Beast E2 5b 1
18 Middle Muddle Groove
-
D 13
19 Middle Muddle Direct VS 5a 4
20 Jugular Wall HS 4b 7
21 Mud, Sweat and Tears HS 4b 5
22 Hernia Corner
-
E2 6a **  
23 Anal Stretch E6 6b ** 1
24 Legbuster
-
E2 5c * 1
25 Gutbuster
-
E2 5c ** 4
26 Kneewrecker Chimney VS 4c ** 18
27 Sea Witch
-
E3 5b  
28 The Conjurer
-
E3 6a  
29 Sandy Volestrangler E3 6b 1
30 Dali's Wall
-
HS  
31 The Melting Clock
-
E2 5c  
32 Sidle
-
VS 4c 1
  Prophet Walls
34 Crown of Thorns VS 5a  
35 The Gripper HVS 5b * 28
36 Surf Nazis Must Die E5 6b ** 1
37 Aesthetic Ape
-
E4 6a ** 8
38 Bat Attack E5 6a 1
39 Orange Ape E2 5c ** 19
40 Statutory Ape E6 6c ** 1
41 Bat's Wall E4 6a *** 21
42 Bat Mafia Link E5 6b 4
43 Monkey Mafia E5 6b *** 3
44 The Noddy Machine E2 5b ** 7
45 Noddy Machine (Mayne Line Start)
-
E3 6a  
46 Jaded Arete E2 5c 5
47 Triangular Groove HVS 5a 8
48 Border Crossing
-
HS 4b 12
49 Borderline VS 4c 48
50 Palmist E4 6b * 16
51 The Prophet E2 5c ** 186
52 Africa E4 6a 4
53 I-Ching E3 5c ** 38
54 Left VS 5a ** 320
55 Centre VS 4b ** 410
56 Right HVS 5b ** 311
57 Spare Rib HVS 4c * 1
58 Yoohah
-
VS 5a 2
  Stacks Area - Tapered Wall
60 Toms Wall S 1
61 Graffiti Wall
-
VD 1
62 Pretty Flamingo
-
E1 5c  
63 Mr Tweet E3 6b **  
64 Ultra Radical E5 6c 2
65 The Nest E2 6a * 5
66 Smelly Fish Crack HS  
  Stacks Area - Doubt Wall
68 Doubtless Wall S * 366
69 The Artful Dodger
-
HVS 5a 65
70 Diedre of Doubt HVS 5a ** 208
71 Diedre of Double Doubt E2 5b ** 82
72 Doubting Thomas
-
E2 5b 22
73 Staircase Crack S 295
74 Green Crack VS 4c 184
75 Lumside Crack
-
S 72
76 The Lum VD 24
77 Cascade
-
VS 5a 17
  Stacks Area - Cornflake Walls
79 Snotty Nose D 281
80 Pegless Wall HVS 4c 21
81 Old Peg Groove VS 4c * 136
82 Cornflake Wall
-
M * 242
83 Shredded Wheat VD 112
84 Rice Crispie Wall
-
D * 183
85 The Groove
-
D 149
86 Bombproof
-
S * 203
87 Blockproof
-
S 70
88 Blockbuster VD * 174
89 Doddle Diedre
-
S * 349
90 Stegosaurus VS 4c ** 364
Climb name Grade
91 Gibbon
-
HVS 5c * 72
92 Trapeze
-
VS 5b ** 142
93 Gorilla
-
E1 5c 2
  Stacks Area - Arch Wall
95 Bottemless Chimney
-
E3 6b  
96 Pipefish Wall
-
E3 6a * 9
97 Slab and Tickle
-
VD * 64
98 Giraffe Corner
-
E3 6a 21
99 Arch Wall E5 6b ** 9
100 Sandstone Wall
-
HVS 5a 11
101 Appletiser
-
HVS 5a * 12
102 Pomme de Terre HVS 5a 1
103 Le Crunch
-
E4 5c *  
104 Fourth Dimension E2 5c 3
105 Jewels Underground
-
E3 6a  
106 Brain Warp
-
E2 5c  
107 Puppet on a String
-
A3  
108 Bullworker
-
HVS 5a * 9
109 Archibold
-
E4 6a  
110 Expanders Crack VS 4c 7
  Stacks Area - Sunshine Wall
112 Easy Arete M 40
113 Sunshine Roof HS * 152
114 Sunshine Groove S 82
115 Sunshine
-
HVS 5b 25
116 Sunshine Recess
-
S 44
117 Gorse Route S 100
118 Sunshine Crack
-
VS 4c 49
119 Sunshine Extra
-
HS 4b 21
  The Stack
121 Captain Birdseye
-
E2 5b * 27
122 Fingers Wall
-
E3 5b 16
123 Fingers Wall (Direct Start)
-
E3 6a 3
124 Flying Buttress, Left Side VD 212
125 Flying Buttress, Right Side D 122
126 Flying Groove VS 4c * 98
127 The Prow E5 6a ** 20
128 Cutty Sark S 11
129 East Side Story
-
VD 14
130 Back Passage M 39
131 Dirty Old Man VD 9
132 Sunset Song HS 4b * 57
133 Footloose
-
VS 4c 8
134 Blocky VD 13
135 Butchers Broom
-
VS 4b * 16
136 Shadow Flake HVS 5a 7
137 Coach Bolt Crack
-
VS 4c 20
138 Huggy Bear
-
VS 4c 15
139 The Pedestal
-
f4 4
  The Sentinal Stack
141 Jutting Flake Crack
-
HS 4b 6
142 Vein Attraction
-
S 5
143 Ramp Route
-
S * 7
  Bouldering
  Bouldering - Orange Wall Area
146 Pipe Overhang f6A 6a ** 4
147 Pipe Slab f6A+ * 10
  Bouldering - Tunnel Area
149 Tunnel Vision f6A+ ** 15
150 The Darkness f6B 2
151 Bulgy f6B * 6
152 Bertie f6A+ 6a * 1
  Bouldering - Jaws Boulder
154 Jaws f7A 13
155 The Great White f6B+ ** 18
156 Bite Radius f6A+ * 4
157 Big Blue f6B 6a 5
  Bouldering - Prophet Area
159 The Rob Thomas f5+ 1
160 Naff Roof f6A 1
161 Toochie f6B+ 6b 5
162 Surf Nazis f6C * 12
163 Bridge Defence f6A+ 2
164 The Shield f6C ** 19
165 Shield Ascension f7A * 2
166 Under Siege f6A 4
167 Attack Attack! f6C * 5
168 Batty Bat f6B+ 6b 8
169 Liam's Problem f7A+ ** 1
170 Masonic-Finger-Shake f6C+ ** 38
171 Jaded Arete Sit Start f6B 1
172 Palmist f6B+ ** 16
173 Highball
-
f6C * 2
174 Highball Arete f6A+ ** 27
175 The Arete between Centre and Right (right side) f5+ 5c 10
176 Sloper f6A 6a 8
177 99 Flake f6A 4
178 99 Flake stand start f4 2
179 Right up f3+ 5
180 The Low Down f6A 6a * 9
Climb name Grade
181 The Low Down Stand Start f5 1
182 Left Hand Legend Original f6B * 1
183 Left Hand Legend Variation f6A+ 1
184 Left Hand Shortcut f5 1
185 Bay Watch f7A  
  Bouldering - Balamory Boulder
187 Daffty f6A 6a 6
188 Miss Hoolie f3 4b 24
189 PC Pinch f6B 6b 27
190 Suzie Scoop f6A+ 6a 36
191 Penny Pocket f6B 6b * 50
192 Balamory Dyno f6B+ * 1
193 Josie Jump f6B 6b 10
194 Archie f3+ 5a 30
195 Edie McCredie f3 4b 29
196 Balamory Traverse
-
f5 5b 66
  Bouldering - Stacks Area
198 There's Something About Diana f6C+ ** 6
199 Taxi Driver f6B **  
200 Ultra Radical (boulder problem) f7A ** 2
201 Birdman f7A *** 42
202 Egret f6C * 7
203 The Stork f6C * 4
204 Pointer f6C * 2
205 The Nest (boulder problem) f6A+ *** 58
206 Claw f6A+ ** 6
207 Python V2 2
208 Boys On The Beach f6A+ * 12
209 Artful Dodger f5 5c 10
210 Bat Man f6B * 19
211 Robin f6A 6a 21
212 Doubt Wall Low Traverse f6A+ ** 1
  Bouldering - Corridor Cave
214 Feel the Lumens f7A *** 1
215 The Enemy Within f6C+ * 1
  Bouldering - Cave Area
217 Central Face Low Level Traverse none 5c ** 6
218 Pockets f5+ 8
219 Cave Man f6C+ ** 16
220 Cave Man - True Finish f7B ** 1
221 Sine Wave f7B ** 1
222 Gorilla f7A *** 14
223 Two Lager Hornsby f6C 1
224 Technically It's Not A Pigeon f6B * 4
225 Sciatica f6B ** 6
226 Randy the Cockerel f6C 2
227 Simoncelli f6B+ ** 15
228 Chao Sic f6C ** 4
229 Jam Crack f6A+  
230 Flying Arete f6A ** 7
231 Cave Beast f6A+ 10
232 Cave Arete f6A+ * 35
233 Ritchies Rockover f6C+ * 2
234 Buddha's Choice f6B ** 17
235 Space Invader f6B+ 1
236 KinkyBitch f6C ** 13
237 KinkyBitch SS f6C+ ** 1
238 Merlot Merlot f6B+ * 3
239 Time Zones f7B+ *** 1
240 Finger Licker f7A *** 13
241 The Crucifix f6B+ ** 8
242 Ginger Rides Again f7B *** 3
243 Ginger Ninja f7A * 1
244 Match and Snatch f7A+ *** 17
245 Crack f6A+ * 5
246 Double Stretch f6A 6a * 12
247 Double Jerk f6C+ * 1
248 A Jerk Too Far f6B 5
249 Jerker f6A ** 51
250 Jerkless f6A+ 6b * 6
251 Pipefish Wall (boulder problem)
-
f6A 6a * 2
252 Headbanger
-
f5+ 5c * 6
253 Arch Wall (boulder problem)
-
f6A+ * 3
254 Pudding Prow f6B * 2
  Bouldering - Sunshine Wall Area
256 Sunshine Wall High 6b 16
257 Sunshine Wall Low 6c+  
258 Mr. Binney f4 5a 15
259 Illonas Crack f3 4a 20
260 Araldite f4 5a 15
261 Latifa f3 4b 14
262 Skunk Wall f4 5a 9
263 Buddah of Brodie f6B *  
264 Buddah of Brodie - low start f6C+ ** 1
265 Pip f6B 1
266 Martin's Arete f3 4b 9
267 Dougster f5+ 5b 5
  Bouldering - Cummingston West
269 Clash City Rockers f5 5b  
270 The Day The World Turned Dayglow f4+ 5b  

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