Climbs 12
Rocktype UNKNOWN

Faces W

Crag features

A series of cliffs situated on that isolated section of coast between Stranraer and Ballantrae. The main cliff is probably the steepest in Galloway and gives power and stamina routes reminiscent of a sports crag. While initially intimidating, the rock is an excellent quality igneous material and gear and holds appear when required. The cliffs are affected by nesting seabirds from mid April to mid August and some of the ledges below the main cliff remain dirty after the nesting season. The cliffs dry quickly after showers, but two to three days of dry weather is needed after prolonged rain. There is a fine outlook onto the north end of Loch Ryan.

Approach notes

Leave the A77 at NX094789, 5km south of Ballantrae, for a minor road signposted 'Pottery Plants'. Follow the road for 200m to a junction at the pottery. Turn left and continue for 6km along a gradually deteriorating road then track, keeping left at any junctions. The track swings southwards and eventually Loch Ryan and the top of the Stranraer peninsula become visible. Shortly thereafter, there is an area of gorse bordering the track, shortly before the track swings sharply uphill to the left at a gate. Park here, and from the gate walk SW, aiming for a small nick on the edge of the moor just below an aerial on the Stranraer peninsula. To reach this nick, it is best to remain high on the left, until a wall is reached, which leads into the nick. From the nick, go down the hillside to the left. The main cliff is straight ahead at the bottom of the slope (15 mins).

From the cliff's southern end go down an easy rib on its seaward side. At low tide it is also possible to climb out from the north side of the crag at VDiff, although this is complex and not recommended in descent.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Cliff
2 Edge of the Abyss
E4 6a ***  
3 Last Night at the Prawns
E3 5c **  
4 Full Speed Ahead
E3 6a **  
5 Red Hot and Blue
E3 6a *  
Climb name Grade
6 Camp Boss, Can't Cook, Won't Cook
E3 5c *  
7 I Should Coco
E2 5c *  
8 Rhythm Nation
E2 5b *  
9 Lloyd Quinan is a Weatherman
E3 5c **  
10 Baywatch Babes
E1 5b  
Climb name Grade
  Surfin' Seal Bay
12 Bustin' Surfboards E2 5b  
  Smuggler's Zawn
14 Electric Brae HVS 5a *  
15 Smuggler's Ridge VD  

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