UKC

Climbs 122
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 320m a.s.l
Faces SW

Little known classic © Phil Sneyd

Crag features

Three quarries set in the moor above Dovestones Reservoir. The smallest (right-hand quarry), is the least extensive, but the most solid. Worth dropping in on the way to/from Dovestones's Edge for a clutch of fine routes from VS to E4 up to 17m high. Tiny Tim and Pedestal Corner are good VS 4cs, Ace of Spades a classic HVS 5a, and Five Day Chimney (E2 5c) is better than it sounds! THE route however is the 'Yosemite style' finger jamming crack of Bob Hope (E4 6a) - one of the best cracks in The Peak. The other two quarries have some loose rock but there are some good clean pitches to be found on solid rock amongst the grot and greenery if care is exercised. *****Rockfall above Titan's Groove has left alot of loose rock - 15.04.10****

Approach notes

From the car park at Dovestone's Reservoir (SE 014034)follow the track past the Yachting Clubhouse to Chew Brook Bridge. A track leads from here to the Dovestone's Quarries in about 20 min. *** update - Peregrines are nesting in Dovestone Main Quarry. The climbing restriction affects routes in the main central quarry. The restriction applies from 1st March to 30th June every year. Do not climb routes in this area during this period - those who have logged routes during the banned period are putting access at risk. The lower left and right quarries are unaffected by this ban.***

Access Advice

No access issues reported. There was a large rockfall in May 2006, routes around Titan Groove and Tower of Bable have been effected. The area still contains loose rock - caution is strongly advised.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Please avoid climbing on the central area of Dovestones Quarry during the above dates (the lower left and lower right quarries are fine to access year round however).

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988)

Out of print:
A complete guide (including the unstable parts of the central quarry) can be downloaded from the BMC website. https://thebmc.co.uk/downloads/Rock%20Climbing/Guidebooks I'd recommend taking a copy of this (or of the old edition) on any visits, as 2 or 3 routes have been unaccountably omitted from the Lower Left Quarry section of the new guide, and some of the descriptions have been shortened to the extent that you can't easily work out where the routes go.
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/13
The quarry is getting rather overgrown in places and some routes are being lost to the vegetation, shame really as its a great location.
Alex Thompson - 13/Apr/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Teazer
-
VS 4c  
2 Olly's Option
-
S  
3 Scoop Route
-
HVD 1
4 Played Out
-
VS 5a  
5 Tweedledee
-
HVS 5a *  
6 Tweedledum
-
E2 6a ** 1
7 Pipers
-
VS 5a  
8 Black Chimney
-
VD  
9 Birthday Layback VS 4b, 4c * 11
10 Gatepost Crack E1 5b ** 14
11 Mercury Crack
-
S ** 1
12 White Wall Left
-
VD 1
13 Age Concern
-
E2 6a **  
14 White Wall Direct E1 5b * 14
15 White Wall Right
-
VS 4c, -  
16 Black Wall Route
-
E1 5b, 4c  
17 Alumina Crack
-
VS -, 4c * 1
18 Black Cracks
-
VS 5a, 4c 2
19 Right-Hand Finish
-
E1 5a, 5b * 1
20 Mottled Groove
-
S ** 22
21 Direct Route
-
VS 4c, 4c * 3
22 Cave and Traverse
-
VS 4c, 4b  
23 Blanco Direct VS 4c, 4c * 18
24 Blanco Superdirect E2 5c  
25 Mindbender HVS 4c, 5a ** 14
26 Daft Brass E5 6a ** 1
27 Draft Bass E1 5b * 1
28 Finger Flake
-
HVD - 4b -  
29 Amen Corner
-
E1 5a, 5b  
30 Tottering Groove
-
VS 4b  
31 Ultima Ratio
-
S 4a * 7
32 17 Year Itch
-
VS 4c  
33 Black and White Traverse
-
HVD ** 7
34 Black Tongue
-
VS 4b  
35 Menage a Trois VS 4c  
36 Joggled Crack
-
VS 4c *  
37 The Jogger HVS 5b  
38 Nomad's Return VS 4c  
39 Boffin Wall HVS 5b  
40 Rock of Ages HVS 5b  
41 Left Hand Variant
-
VS 4b, - 2
Climb name Grade
42 Epitaph Corner
-
VS 4b, 4c * 7
43 Oldham Wakes E1 5b  
44 Waterfall Direct
-
HS 4b * 5
45 Tightwalk
-
E2 6a, 5a * 1
46 Parallel Cracks
-
HS 4b * 6
47 A-lu-te
-
S *** 20
48 The Waterfall Route
-
VD *** 38
49 Feb.
-
VS 5a 4
50 Sideshow
-
E1 5b, 5b  
51 Brass Monkey
-
HVS -, 5a 1
52 Garn
-
E1 -, 5b  
53 Pinnacle Gully
-
VS 4c 1
54 King Bill E2 5b  
55 Gangapoochi
-
E1 4c, 5b ** 1
56 Mike's Meander VS 4b, 4b ** 10
57 Gail's Progress
-
HVS 5a * 1
58 Jericho Wall
-
VS 4c 7
59 Plumb-line
-
HVS 5a, 5a * 2
60 Initiation Groove
-
E1 4b, 5a 5
61 The Whipper-in
-
HVS 5a  
62 The Sliver
-
HVS 5b  
63 Too Tall for Dwarfs
-
E2 5b  
64 Brown Route
-
VS 4c 2
65 Quarrymaster
-
E2 5c **  
66 Flutterbye Grooves
-
E1 5b * 1
67 White Slab
-
HVS 8
68 Comeback (winter) V 6 *  
69 Solstice E2 5b  
70 Comeback
-
HVS 5a  
71 Loose Leaf
-
VS 4c 2
72 Jackie
-
HVS 5a  
73 Unicorn Direct HVS 5a, 4b ** 5
74 Little Unicorn
-
HVS 5a, 4b * 1
75 Tower Of Babel
-
VS 4c ** 8
76 Titan's Groove VS 4b, 4c * 4
77 Swinging Chimney
-
VS 4c  
78 Birch Wall
-
E4 6a  
79 Funny Move Groove
-
E1 5a  
80 Small Groove
-
VS 4b  
81 Chlorophyll
-
HVS 4b, 5a  
82 Heather Groove
-
HVD * 4
Climb name Grade
83 Salamanka
-
HVS 5a  
84 The Butcher
-
S 4b * 4
85 The Butcher's Apron HVS 5a * 3
86 Hey! Jeannie E1 5b ** 5
87 The Baker
-
VS 5a 1
88 The Candlestick-maker
-
VS 4c  
89 Slanting Crack
-
HVS 4c  
90 - Lower Right Quarry -
-
M  
91 Ace Of Spades HVS 5a * 23
92 Jet Lag E5 6b *  
93 Tiny Tim VS 4c * 20
94 Bob Hope E4 6a *** 20
95 Pedestal Corner VS 4c * 4
96 Scuttle Buttlin' E7 6c **  
97 Five Day Chimney E2 5c * 3
98 Dissapointment
-
VD  
99 Stumpy
-
VD 1
100 Stretcher
-
HVS 5b  
101 The Tempest
-
HS  
102 Laybacker
-
MVS 4c  
103 Happy Wanderer
-
S  
104 Corking Crack
-
E1 5b  
105 Ender
-
HS  
  Winter
107 Evans Above
-
III 3
108 Central Gully
-
I/II 10
109 Tony's solo IV 3 ** 1
110 Waterfall Direct
-
IV 4 *** 3
111 Blanco Direct
-
V 5 **  
112 Pinnacle Cracks VI 6 * 2
113 Initiation Groove V 6 *** 4
114 The Green Man Direct VII 7 ** 2
115 Trollenburged
-
IV  
116 The Pillar
-
E1 5b 1
117 Evening Crack
-
HVS 5b 1
118 Gracie Fields
-
HVS 5a 1
119 Titan's Wall
-
E1 5b 1
120 Uranus Crack
-
HVS 5b 1
121 Skive IV 4,5 * 2
122 Waterfall Climb IV 4 ** 3
123 Epitaph Corner IV 5 * 2

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