Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 320m a.s.l
Little known classic © Phil Sneyd
Three quarries set in the moor above Dovestones Reservoir. The smallest (right-hand quarry), is the least extensive, but the most solid. Worth dropping in on the way to/from Dovestones's Edge for a clutch of fine routes from VS to E4 up to 17m high. Tiny Tim and Pedestal Corner are good VS 4cs, Ace of Spades a classic HVS 5a, and Five Day Chimney (E2 5c) is better than it sounds! THE route however is the 'Yosemite style' finger jamming crack of Bob Hope (E4 6a) - one of the best cracks in The Peak. The other two quarries have some loose rock but there are some good clean pitches to be found on solid rock amongst the grot and greenery if care is exercised. *****Rockfall above Titan's Groove has left alot of loose rock - 15.04.10****
From the car park at Dovestone's Reservoir (SE 014034)follow the track past the Yachting Clubhouse to Chew Brook Bridge. A track leads from here to the Dovestone's Quarries in about 20 min. *** update - Peregrines are nesting in Dovestone Main Quarry. The climbing restriction affects routes in the main central quarry. The restriction applies from 1st March to 30th June every year. Do not climb routes in this area during this period - those who have logged routes during the banned period are putting access at risk. The lower left and right quarries are unaffected by this ban.***
No access issues reported. There was a large rockfall in May 2006, routes around Titan Groove and Tower of Bable have been effected. The area still contains loose rock - caution is strongly advised.
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
Please avoid climbing on the central area of Dovestones Quarry during the above dates (the lower left and lower right quarries are fine to access year round however).
|A complete guide (including the unstable parts of the central quarry) can be downloaded from the BMC website. https://thebmc.co.uk/downloads/Rock%20Climbing/Guidebooks
I'd recommend taking a copy of this (or of the old edition) on any visits, as 2 or 3 routes have been unaccountably omitted from the Lower Left Quarry section of the new guide, and some of the descriptions have been shortened to the extent that you can't easily work out where the routes go.|
Simon Caldwell - 03/Jun/13
|The quarry is getting rather overgrown in places and some routes are being lost to the vegetation, shame really as its a great location.|
Alex Thompson - 13/Apr/07