UKC

Climbs 22
Rocktype Quartzite
Altitude 536m a.s.l

Crag features

Several routes can be soloed above reasonable landings, also some bouldering possibilities. Predominantly sound rock. Very pleasant in sunny weather, fairly grim in fog. [Liz Asquith]

A short but intense walk-in leads to the first of the 4 main crags, however only Cranberry Tor is currently open to climbers.

Nice but, underwhelming from a climber's perspective. 

Access Advice

The area covered by this description is the Stiperstones National Nature Reserve and subject to unusual local bylaws which restrict certain recreational activites, including 'rock climbing with equipment'. 

Natural England own the site and climbing is restricted to Cranberry Rock (the tor with the best routes) and with an agreement that no fixed or in situ equipment will be placed or left on the crag. There is a permit system which can be discussed by calling the site manager on (01743) 792294.

The outcrop of Nipstone Rock, a little further to the SSW, is managed by the Shropshire Wildlife Trust and no restrictions are known on this crag.

"No scrambling on these rocks" so always remember to pack your bouldering mat & beanie to avoid confusion.
Alex Thompson - 12/Sep/11
the devils chair has a nice vertical bit of rock that was fun to solo.
Fidmark - 05/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Stiperstones summit
-
summit 41
2 Fossil Arete M 9
3 Central Route M 10
4 Original Route
-
M 8
5 Cranberry Wall
-
M 10
6 Glass Slab
-
D 8
7 Steps
-
M 6
8 Ordinary Route
-
M 6
Climb name Grade
9 Right Wall
-
none 5b 2
10 Central Wall
-
none 4a 5
11 Eric's Arete
-
none 5a 3
12 Eric's Crack
-
none 4c 3
13 Central Crack
-
none 4a 1
14 Short Arete
-
none 4b 4
15 Corner Climb
-
D 6
16 Glaze
-
VD 4
Climb name Grade
17 Devil's Corner
-
VD 6
18 Right Corner
-
D 4
19 I'd Rather Be The Devil
-
VS 4c 3
20 Devils Tower
-
VS 4a 4
21 Sit Down!
-
VS 5a 4
22 Devil's Chimney
-
M 6

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