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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 60
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 326m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Tom Skelhon starts out on the upper section of the stunning arete of Nosepicker (7a), Treherbert Quarry © Mark Glaister

Crag features

A great crag in a stunning position,almost a mountain crag feel. Can be bracing in winter due to it's exposed position but less seepage than you would expect as seperate from the main mountain. The old routes have been regeared as appropriate and most remaining trad routes are equipped with belays/lower offs, To complement the refreshed classic old lines there are numerous new lower grade sport routes and bouldering,well worth the walk whatever your tastes!

Approach notes

The crag lies up the mountainside above Treherbert railway station - a convenient way of arriving if on train/foot. If coming by car drive to the same place and park. Cross over to the far side of the railway turn left and follow a track for 100m until a short cut up and left across a stream, then take the track up right. Continue up this for 1/4 mile, until a trail breaks off left at a wooden seat. This trail leads directly up to the crag in about 20 minutes .Take your time and enjoy the scenic walk!

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South Wales Sport Climbs

South Wales Sport Climbs covers the area to the south of the Brecon Beacons, spanning the land and sea cliffs from the River Wye on the Welsh border to Pembrokeshire in the west. The area is home to a wealth of sport climbing on a multitude of venues ranging from small inland quarries to extensive limestone sea cliffs.
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Wow!"defianetly" a significant solo of Thumbsucker by dimacmorris. S.Wales sandstone trad routes don't often get repeats never mind solos.Glad to see you negotiated the rubbly top out ok.
freelunchprovider - 16/Feb/15
There were plenty of bolts there 2days ago,nice and sunny on the back crag and towers too.
freelunchprovider - 23/May/14
Sounds like you have stumbled upon a troll, Kev.
alan rosier - 28/May/12
Where on earth are the new bolts mentioned in the descriptions?! Was there today and the routes are as per the original descriptions. There are remains of old PR's and the odd old bolt but certainly no shiny 5 bolts!
KH - 20/May/12
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Erection Fever E3 6b ***  
  Main Wall
3 Spoilt Bastard 6a * 20
4 Uncle Eddie Meets the Modern Parents 6a+ * 18
5 Norman's Knob 6b 5
6 Tally Whore 5c 3
7 Student Grant 6a 3
8 Little Big EGO E2 4
9 Biffa Bacon 6b+ 1
10 Johnny Fartpants 6b 3
11 Submerged by Blubber E2  
12 Scrotal Scratch Mix 6a 2
13 Baker Day HS 4b 4
14 Blubber f6A+ * 2
15 Blubber Right-hand VB * 2
16 The Gruff f6A * 2
  Kruger Wall
18 Litter All Lout V0+ * 3
19 Blood Dread V1 * 1
20 Kruger Wall f7B *** 1
  Lone Boulder
22 Lone Boulder Left Hand f6A ** 4
23 Lone Boulder Right Hand f2+ ** 2
24 Amy's Problem f2+ ** 4
Climb name Grade
25 Treherbert Traverse f6B ** 7
  Rhondda Pillar
27 Rowan Jelly 5c * 31
28 Mint Sauce Dressing 6a+ * 13
29 Lamb Leer Disease E2 ** 22
30 Bizarre Geetar E3 * 5
31 Nosepicker 7a *** 24
32 Thumbsucker E5 *** 11
33 Nailbiter 7a * 16
  The Leaning Towers
  The Third (Jammed Boulder) Tower
36 Drinks at 'The Dog and Hammer' 5c 18
37 Billy the Fish HVS 2
38 Clock Sucker 4c * 29
39 Crock Licker 6b+ ** 40
40 Terry Forkwit 6b *** 62
41 Norbert Colon Meets The Fat Slags 6a 47
  The Second Tower
43 Buster Gonads 5c 12
44 Powered By Simian Love Fuel HVS 5a 4
45 Mickey's Monkey Spunk Moped VS 4c 5
46 A Fish Called Rhondda 5c 18
  The First Tower
48 Crescent Wanker 5c 19
Climb name Grade
49 OMG She's a Squirter! 5c * 25
50 The Day The Drill Conked Out 5b 17
51 Burning Brush 6b+ 6
52 Brush Down HS 4b * 4
  Back Crag
54 The Thin Drum 4c 10
55 Gallow's Step 5c 7
56 Grunter Ass 6b+ 10
57 Lynch 'Em E5 3
58 Exterminate All Bolt Thieves E4 * 6
59 String 'Em Up 5a 7
60 Exhumate All Trad Beliefs
VS 4b 1
61 Seb Eats Shite 6a+ 8
62 Coprophagic Canine 6a+ 15
63 Do Doo It
VS 4b 1
64 The Faecal Finger of Fate 6a+ 13
65 Double or Squits 6a+ 9
  Jedstar Boulder
67 Jedstar f6C *** 2
68 Dusty Springfield f6B * 2
  Jedlinge Boulder (Under the Pillar)
70 Jedlinge f6C *** 2
71 Power Hour f7A+ *** 2

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