Climbs 34
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces SW

Dan Harris on Royal Flush VS+ Llyn Brianne. © ccliff

Crag features

The climbing at Llyn Brianne is located in 4 main areas of the old quarry, that of Entrance Wall and Hangover Buttress, which, respectively, consist of slabby tiers and a distinctive steep brown wall and are passed on the approach road; and then Car Park Quarry and the Main Wall which lies above a broad terrace north of Car Park. The latter wall is some 300m long, 30m high, the upper tiers of which are very loose and vegetated.

The rock quality on the crag varies considerably, the Car Park Quarry and the Main Wall are composed of flaky shale / schist which should be handled with care. The Entrance Wall is a harder, more compact but rather shattered rock. The best rock is found on Hangover Buttress.

2016 Update: Thanks to the North Wales Bolting Fund a serious upgrade has been made to this cliff. Many of the best routes now have 2 bolt lower off points and most of the older 6mm bolts have been removed. Good quality 8mm and 10mm bolts protect most routes adequately. Routes that may require some trad equipment or have poorer protection are now indicated. 

LO = lower off in place  

TR = trad gear would help

PO = old bolts / pegs 

Descents: Entrance Wall - walk to easy slopes to the east. Hangover Buttress - scramble west from the middle ledge or abseil from the huge stake. Walk off west from the top ledge. Car Park Quarry - a short step on the north side leads to the 1st terrace below the main Wall from here walk down to the car park (keep north initially). Main Wall - right hand routes: descent as for Car Park Quarry, Blackendecker: use lower off point or abseil from tree (both awkward) or traverse along ledge leftwards to easier ground.

Approach notes

All routes are practically roadside, with a car park and toilet facilities.

The routes close to cheeky half are solid, its worth a stop off for these few. However in general, its not a great venue due to poor rock quality, unless you like that sort of thing.....
alan rosier - 05/May/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Entrance Wall
2 Lucy VD 1
3 Brian IV ** 9
4 Lynn S * 2
5 Streaky Bacon S * 2
6 High Cholesterol VS 4c * 1
7 Meander S 3
8 Question of Balance VS 3
  Hangover Buttress
10 One For the Road VD * 5
11 Orange Safari VS ** 3
12 Reservoir Dog S * 2
13 Hair of the Dog E1 5b *  
14 Cosmo 6a ** 6
15 Attitude Adjustment 5b ** 3
16 Pangalactic Garglebuster VS 4
17 Hangover 5b ** 6
18 Listerine 7a ** 3
19 Dirty Vimto 6b+ ** 1
20 Cheeky Half 6a+ *** 3
21 Alcoholics Anonymous 5b *** 5
22 Mike's Hard Lemonade S  
23 Milk of Amnesia E1 5b * 1
  Car Park Quarry
25 Sundowner 5c ** 1
26 Royal Flush 5a ** 10
27 The Shield 6b *** 2
28 Sink the Bismarck 6a *** 3
  Main Wall
30 Blackendecker 6a+ *** 1
31 Close Shave 5a ** 2
32 Razor VS 4c *  
33 Cutting Edge VS 4b *  
  Top Bridge Area
35 LBS D  
36 Question of Balance 5b * 1

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