Climbs 28
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 47m a.s.l
Faces S

Tim the chameleon on the FA © simon wooster

Crag features


South facing, quick drying, just above sea level and non tidal, sheltered sun trap of weathered natural limestone. Free parking at the top of the crag, solid belay posts every 6 feet at the top of the routes. Glorious views of Torbay and the English Riviera. Now with easy and safe 3 min path access to the base of the crag. The routes are generally no higher than 22 m and with railings all the way along the top has great top rope potential. The crag will only improve with greater use and 2016 is a great opportunity to get this crag back into regular use and also new route potential.

However, this crag has been neglected for some time and has some vegatation and loose rock which is being cleared /cleaned  by keen locals. The base of the crag has also been neglected by the landowner and abused by fly tippers.

Approach notes


There is now a new safe easy access path to get to the base of the crag. Head east from the car park following the steps and railings, where the steps end turn south towards the sea across a flattish area of cleared ground to a heavily coppiced sycamore stump at the edge of the cleared area. Follow the path steeply at first down the side of the sycamore then contour west and then up through Holm Oaks to reach the base of the cliff. The path is still very rough at present and cuts through very dense brambles/ thorns.

it is also possible to abseil in directly from the car park railings or take a very exposed traverse (watch for bad step) in from the top edge of the cliff by hoping over the railings half way down the steps.

More cleared and cleaned routes, perfect sheltered dry winter venue sun trap.
Chris Ebbutt - 17/Nov/16
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2The Singing NunVS 4c  
3Loose KnickersMVS 4a  
4The Family WayVS 5a  
6Ash Tip Slab
S 1
7Bin Bag
HS 4a  
8Waste Disposal
E1 5a 1
9Hunt The Dump
E1 5b 1
10Tin Can Alley
HVS 5a  
11Keep Britain Tidy
VS 4b 1
12Football Graveyard
E1 5c 1
14End CrackVD 3
15Imperial WallHVS 5a  
16Comedy Of ErrorsS 4a *3
17Romeo & JulietVD 3
18A Midsummer Night's DreamHVS 4c *8
19Antony and CleopatraE3 5c/6a *1
20RamshackleS 4a 23
21Ram's ToothVS 4b 3
22Sunshine PlayroomHVS 5a **1
23Just Out of ReachE2 5c *1
24Sabre ToothHS 4a **22
25Space and TimeE1 5b *1
26Planet RideHVS 5a 4
27Head OnE2 5b 1
28ThoughtformsE2 5b *1
29MagpieHVS 5a 4
30Brass Bound CrackHVS 5a *12
31Eubulus WilliamsVS 4c 12

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Ebbutt