Climbs 32
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 47m a.s.l
Faces S

Tim the chameleon on the FA © simon wooster

Crag features


South facing, quick drying, just above sea level and non tidal, sheltered sun trap of weathered natural limestone. Free parking at the top of the crag, solid belay posts every 6 feet at the top of the routes. Glorious views of Torbay and the English Riviera. Now with easy and safe 3 min path access to the base of the crag. The routes are generally no higher than 22 m and with railings all the way along the top has great top rope potential. The crag will only improve with greater use and 2016 is a great opportunity to get this crag back into regular use and also new route potential.

However, this crag has been neglected for some time and has some vegatation and loose rock which is being cleared /cleaned  by keen locals. The base of the crag has also been neglected by the landowner and abused by fly tippers.

Approach notes


There is now a new safe easy access path to get to the base of the crag. Head east from the car park following the steps and railings, where the steps end turn south towards the sea across a flattish area of cleared ground to a heavily coppiced sycamore stump at the edge of the cleared area. Follow the path steeply at first down the side of the sycamore then contour west and then up through Holm Oaks to reach the base of the cliff. The path is still very rough at present and cuts through very dense brambles/ thorns.

it is also possible to abseil in directly from the car park railings or take a very exposed traverse (watch for bad step) in from the top edge of the cliff by hoping over the railings half way down the steps.

More cleared and cleaned routes, perfect sheltered dry winter venue sun trap.
Chris Ebbutt - 17/Nov/16
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2 The Singing NunVS 4c  
3 Loose KnickersMVS 4a  
4 The Family WayVS 5a  
5MonorailVS 4c **4
7Ash Tip Slab
S 1
8Bin Bag
HS 4a  
9Waste Disposal
E1 5a 1
10Hunt The Dump
E1 5b 1
11Tin Can Alley
HVS 5a  
12Keep Britain Tidy/ ColdfingerVS 4b 1
13Football Graveyard
E1 5c 1
16Corner ChimneyVD 4a 1
17End CrackHS 4b *4
18Imperial WallHVS 5a 3
19A Little DetatchedS 4a 4
20Just One KissE2 6a **1
21Comedy Of ErrorsS 4a *7
22Romeo & JulietVD 6
23A Midsummer Night's DreamHVS 4c *8
24Antony and CleopatraE3 5c/6a *1
25RamshackleHS 4b *28
26Ram's ToothVS 4b 3
27Sunshine PlayroomHVS 5a **1
28Just Out of ReachE2 5c *1
29Sabre ToothHS 4a ***25
30Space and TimeE1 5b *1
31Planet RideHVS 5a 4
32Head OnE2 5b 1
33ThoughtformsE2 5b *2
34MagpieHVS 5a 6
35Brass Bound CrackHVS 5a **12
36Eubulus WilliamsVS 4c 12

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Ebbutt