Climbs 37
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 47m a.s.l
Faces S

CE getting his leg over... © simon wooster

Crag features


South facing, quick drying, just above sea level and non tidal, sheltered sun trap of weathered natural limestone. Free parking at the top of the crag, solid belay posts every 6 feet at the top of the routes. Glorious views of Torbay and the English Riviera. Now with easy and safe 3 min path access to the base of the crag. The routes are generally no higher than 22 m and with railings all the way along the top has great top rope potential. The crag will only improve with greater use and 2017 is a great opportunity to get this crag back into regular use and also new route potential.

However, this crag has been neglected for some time and has some vegatation and loose rock which is being cleared /cleaned  by keen locals. The base of the crag has also been neglected by the landowner and abused by fly tippers.

Approach notes


There is now a new safe easy access path to get to the base of the crag. Head east from the car park following the steps and railings, where the steps end turn south towards the sea across a flattish area of cleared ground to a heavily coppiced sycamore stump at the edge of the cleared area. Follow the path steeply at first down the side of the sycamore then contour west and then up through Holm Oaks to reach the base of the cliff. The path is still rough at present and cuts through dense brambles/ thorns.

it is also possible to abseil in directly from the car park railings or take a very exposed traverse (watch for bad step) in from the top edge of the cliff by hoping over the railings half way down the steps.

More cleared and cleaned routes, perfect sheltered dry winter venue sun trap.
Chris Ebbutt - 17/Nov/16
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
2 Ash Tip Slab S 1
3 Bin Bag HS 4a  
4 Waste Disposal E1 5a 1
5 Hunt The Dump E1 5b 1
6 Tin Can Alley HVS 5a  
7 Keep Britain Tidy/ Coldfinger VS 4b 1
8 Football Graveyard E1 5c 1
10 The Singing Nun VS 4c  
11 Loose Knickers MVS 4a  
12 The Family Way VS 5a  
13 Monorail HVS 4c ** 6
16 Corner Chimney VD 4b 2
17 Gravity Groove S 4a 11
18 Defying Gravity HS 4a 1
19 End Crack HS 4b * 17
20 Imperial Wall HVS 5a 5
21 Proletariat Pillar E4 6a * 1
23 A Little Detatched S 4a 8
24 Just One Kiss E2 6a ** 1
26 Comedy Of Errors S 4a * 12
27 Romeo & Juliet VD 14
28 Flight Of The Forearms HVS 5a ** 3
29 A Midsummer Night's Dream HVS 5a * 11
30 A Midsummer Night With Cleopatra HVS 5b 1
31 Antony and Cleopatra E3 5c/6a * 1
32 Ramshackle HS 4b * 36
33 Ram's Tooth HVS 5a 3
34 Sunshine Playroom HVS 5a ** 4
35 Just Out of Reach E2 5c * 1
36 Sabre Tooth HS 4b *** 39
37 Space and Time E1 5b * 4
38 Planet Ride HVS 5a * 12
39 Head On E2 5b 1
40 Thoughtforms E2 5b * 2
41 Magpie HVS 5a 15
42 Brass Bound Crack HVS 5a ** 16
43 Eubulus Williams VS 4c 18

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris Ebbutt