Climbs 83
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 70m a.s.l
Faces SW

Serenity, Impossible Roof crag (not Roche Abbey) © Wood for Trees

Crag features

A pleasant collection of steep compact pocketed dolomitic limestone buttresses up to 15m in height in sharing a valley with a ruined 16th century monastery. The best climbing is in the low E grades but the VS and the few HVSs are very worthwhile. The grades seem tough due to the pumpy nature of the rock. The bouldering is excellent though a bit polished. Most of the harder routes are usually top roped (abundant trees provide good anchors) despite the odd peg! A lot of the crag stays dry in the rain but it generally gets better weather than the Peak anyway. The guidebook is out of print, but you could look at http://www.dangeroussite.com/ [Paz 5/01]

Approach notes

From Maltby (come off M18 junction 1) go south east along the A634 following the brown signs to Roche Abbey. From the end of the cobbled lane (park here) turn right away from the Abbey and walk up the valley. The crags start immediately up on the right.

NOTE - climbing is technically forbidden by the landowner, but the situation is such that you are unlikely to be spotted let alone asked to leave. we climbed here 1/5/2015 and got kicked off after been spotted by security.

Access Advice

These crags do not have agreed access. The landowner has concerns with climbing on his land, and any publicity about the crags, or an increase in use, will result in an immediate and enforced ban. Quiet, low-key use is currently tolerated - please do not do anything to jepordize this. Be sensitive to the ecological features of the area and take all litter home with you.

2012 Update: access issues have resurfaced here this summer - please be aware that access is particularly sensitive at the moment so good behavoiur and remaining low key are vital.

Many original climbs are missing. http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207050 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207051 http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=207052
sting - 07/Jan/15
For anyone who has not been before (when leaves are on the trees) I think theyre difficult to find. Once you get to the carpark. The first 2 crags are adjacent to the carpark behind thick woodland. See the excellent http://www.dangeroussite.com for ace info. As noobs we found these crags too hard and prefered the bouldering after the end of the SSSI, down the track from the car park away from the abbey and over the road into the next woodland. It was a bit slippery being shaded but not too bad. Also, the car park was very busy and a flourescent jacket tried telling me i would have to reverse 3/4 mile up a twisty single lane track as there was no room in the carpark. i ignored him of course and found a parking space but be prepared! We will come back when we are more experienced, theres some great climbing to be had but as noobs maybe we should stick to Stanage Edge for now
northernspirit2001 - 05/Jun/07
Access is officially denied as it is a designated SSSI. The Earl of Scarborough recently died and English Heritage allegedly manage the place. More info on www.dangeroussite.com Keep a LOW profile and behave and you should be ok. As DP says the bouldering and climbing is pretty good, nothing really here for beginners. Enjoy this smashing little crag.. Dave Law
dangerous - 06/Apr/06
Guide books for Roche Abbey. The Crag appeared in BMC New climbs 1986. Pages 64 to 68.
Paul F - 31/Oct/05
Access problems currently at the moment, Lord Scarborough - English Heritage has installed a new security gate at the entrance to the driveway. This gate is electric opens at 6.30am and closes at 6.30pm. Currently there are signs stating no climbing due to double scientific interest.
steve Greig - 21/Feb/03
What a superb crag. Puts the Minus Ten wall to shame. The bouldering is shady in the summer and a suntrap in the winter - what more could you ask for. The classic \"Borg\" (English 6b), is maybe the best boulder problems of its grade on yorks/peak limestone (see photo http://www.peakgrit.ukclimbing.com/borg.jpg). Undisputed (as yet) as South Yorkshire\'s premier limestone bouldering venue.
Dave Parry - 31/Jan/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Gypsy Buttress
2 Best friends dyno f7B 5
3 Gilda f4+ 17
4 Rigoletto f6B 13
5 October f6A+ 15
6 Strict Fore f6B+ 10
7 Scoop f5+ 15
8 Flautist f6B+ 16
9 The wasp dyno f6C 3
10 The Wasp f7A+ * 7
11 Cracker f4+ 7
12 Sloper f6A 11
13 Flake f5+ 13
14 Lanky f6A 11
15 Undercut f5+ 15
16 The 5c Dyno none 5c 10
17 Low Break Traverse f6A 5c 12
18 High Break Traverse f6A 2
19 Passion f7A+ ** 24
20 Crystal f6C 56
21 Borg f6C 58
22 Sharkes Tooth f6C+ * 18
  Abbey Buttress
24 The Crack
-
E2 5c 2
25 Golden Chalice
-
E2 5c 3
26 The Arete
-
E2 5c 2
27 The Quest
-
E3 6a 2
28 Holy Grail
-
E1 5b 2
  Pothole buttress
30 The Font
-
HVS 5a 2
  Car Park Buttress
32 Retro f6C * 1
33 Vintage Left f6B+ ** 1
34 Vintage Right f6B 1
35 Silent Prayer
-
E3 5c 1
36 Penitence
-
E3 5c 2
37 Cold Water Treatment
-
E2 5c 2
38 Vows of Celibacy
-
E2 5c 2
39 Evensong
-
VS 4c 6
40 Campanologist
-
HVS 5b 2
41 Bell Ringer
-
HVS 5a 4
  Beef Buttress
43 The Fool f7B+ ** 15
44 Jazzy Jester f7B ** 15
45 The Jester f7A+ 9
46 Jazz f7B ** 4
47 Justice f7A * 40
48 Fools Justice f8A 6
49 Worse Habits Sit Start f6A+ * 14
50 Sundance f6C+ ** 31
51 Bad Habits Sit Start f7A *** 47
52 Bad Habits Traverse f7A ** 7
53 Addiction f7C+ ** 3
54 Speedway f7C+ ***  
55 Speedway Sit Start f8A+ * 1
56 Tight Hole f7A+ 19
57 Tight Speed f8A 3
58 Rehabit Sit Start f6C ** 24
59 The Abbey Habit Start 6a+ f6A+ 5
60 Faith Left Hand f7A+ ** 25
61 Faith Right Hand f7A 33
62 Habitus sit start f6B ** 20
63 Tony's undercut eliminate f7A+ * 22
64 Fallen Idol f7B+ ** 8
65 Fallen idol sit start f7C+ 1
66 Habitus
-
E1 6a 3
67 Matins
-
HVS 5a 1
68 Shallow Grave
-
E1 5b 1
69 Holy Smoke
-
VS 4c 1
70 Dirty Habits
-
E3 6a * 4
  Impossible Roof
72 6b f6B 2
73 6b+ Arete f6B+ 6
74 Tripitaka f7A+ 24
75 Tripitaka Extension f7B+ *** 2
76 Dragon Fly f6C 17
77 Idris f7B+ ** 6
78 Surrender to Strangeness f8B ***  
79 Serenity f8B *** 1
80 Serenataon f8C  
81 Serendipity f8B+ ***  
82 Enity f7B+ 1
83 Apache f8A+ ***  
84 Into the black f7C 4
85 Dark Therapy f8A **  
86 Light Therapy f7C+ **  
87 Black Cherry f7B ** 5
88 Whale Bopp f7B ** 1
89 6c+ f6C+ ** 2

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