Climbs 140
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 898m a.s.l
Faces N

Lliwedd from Crib Goch © Sean Kelly

Crag features

The highest cliff in England & Wales was also one of the first to be explored by the 19th Century pioneers training for the greater ranges, the Climber's Club published their first guidebook for Lliwedd and many famous names have left their mark on the mountain.

The decision was made by the Lliwedd guidebook author to ommit *stars* from the latest edition so do not be put off by starless routes, routes that have been given stars in select and winter guidebooks have been shown here. Lliwedd is a serious cliff with a reputation for difficult route-finding, poor protection and being hopelessly difficult when wet.

Must do routes include: Slanting Buttress Ridge Route (D), Horned Crag Route (VD), Avalanche, Red Wall and Longland's Continuation (S), The Sword (VS) and Terminator (E1).

Approach notes

The usual approach is by following the Miner's Track from Pen-y-Pass to Llyn Llydaw before contouring above the South shore and striking directly up to the required area of the cliff base.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)
Lliwedd (1998)

Out of print:
Climbed on a fine day in September- were the only climbers on the crag-(not counting the 8 ravens) 10 great pitches/800 foot of lovely easy climbing-must rank as my best multi pitch experience.
bobpilgrem - 16/Sep/10
Lliwedd has arguably the best (certainly the longest)mountaineering routes in England and Wales. Plenty of holds on the classic routes, but can be awkward in the wet. Old-fashioned and uncrowded - great!
Mac B - 05/Aug/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Other Routes
2 Traverse of Lliwedd
-
1 ** 165
3 Far West Route
-
VS 4c  
4 The Girdle Traverse VD  
5 The Garter VS  
6 The Anklet S  
  Far East Buttress
8 Cracks Rib VD  
9 Far East Cracks
-
HS 1
10 Far East Arete
-
VD  
11 The Clean Way
-
S  
12 The Spark E2 5b  
13 Route 3
-
VD  
14 The Great Chute
-
VD  
15 Offshoot 1
-
HVS 5b  
16 Offshoot 2
-
HVS 5a  
17 East Gully Ordinary Route
-
D 2
18 Thoroughly Unjustifiable
-
E2 5a  
19 East Gully Right Branch
-
HS  
20 The Runnel
-
S  
  East Buttress
22 Horned Crag Route VD * 177
23 Stack Shelf - Great Terrace Connection
-
M 1
24 Yellow Slab
-
HS  
25 Yellow Rib
-
VD  
26 Potentilla Rib
-
S  
27 Yellow Slab - Purgatory Connection
-
S  
28 Yellow Slab Direct
-
E2 5c  
29 Paradise/The Black Arete HS 4a * 38
30 Paradise
-
HS 4a * 35
31 Purgatory
-
VS 4c  
32 Perdition
-
S  
33 The Unimportant Variant
-
VD  
34 Route 1
-
VD  
35 Avalanche
-
VD *** 142
36 Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands S 4b ** 539
37 Enigma Variations
-
E3 5c  
38 Sideline
-
E1 5a  
39 Twister HVS 5a  
40 Birch Tree Terrace - Avalanche Connection
-
VD  
41 Central Chimney VD 4
42 Terminator E1 5b ** 27
43 Birch Tree Variant
-
S  
44 Birch Tree Terrace Climb
-
HS  
45 Dress Rehearsal Rag
-
E1 5a  
46 Roof Route
-
VD  
47 Birch Tree Sidle
-
VD  
48 Solomon
-
S  
49 Terminal Arete
-
M * 64
50 Purple Passage
-
HS  
51 Red Wall and Longland's Continuation
-
VD *** 203
52 I Got You Babe
-
E1 5c  
53 The Sword/Route 2 VS 4c * 32
54 The Sword
-
VS 5a 78
55 Route 2
-
S 46
56 Child's Face Climb
-
S  
57 Easy Way to the Bowling Green
-
VD  
58 Fandango
-
E2 5b  
59 Shallow Gully
-
HS 2
60 Verbal Abuse
-
E4 6a  
61 Bowling Green Groove
-
VS  
62 Mallory's Slab
-
VD ** 16
63 Bowling Green Slab
-
S  
64 Bowling Green Buttress
-
VS 4c 1
65 Easy Way Above the Bowling Green
-
M  
66 Ochre Slab
-
VS 4a  
67 Wrong Chimney
-
S  
68 Flanking Slabs of Great Chimney
-
HS  
69 Flanker
-
E2 5b  
70 A Good Day Out
-
VS  
71 Great Chimney
-
VD 2
72 West Wall of Great Chimney
-
D  
73 Bowling Green - Central Gully Connections
-
VD  
  Central Gully
75 Central Gully and East Peak
-
VD  
76 The Squiggle
-
VS 4c  
77 Reade's Crack
-
HS  
78 Swastika
-
HVS 5a  
79 Central Gully Direct
-
E1 5b  
80 Drivel
-
HVS 4c  
81 Fylfot
-
VD  
82 Central Gully and West Peak
-
D  
  West Buttress
84 First Groove
-
M  
85 Intermediate Route
-
D  
86 Third Groove
-
D  
87 Primitive Route
-
D  
88 Direct Route
-
S  
89 Craig yr Aderyn Route
-
D  
90 The Bilberry Terrace
-
3S *** 41
91 The Bender
-
E3 6a  
92 Three Pinnacle Start to Craig yr Aderyn
-
VD  
93 Big Deal VS 4c 1
94 Cruel Crack
-
E2 5c  
95 Three Pinnacle Gully HS 1
96 The Fat Lady's Aria
-
E4 6b  
97 Exploding Buttress
-
E2 5c  
98 Another Fine Mess
-
E2 5c  
99 Rocker Route
-
D 2
100 Rocker Ridge
-
VS 4c  
101 Siren Crack
-
E3 6a  
102 Old Friends
-
E3 6a  
103 Closing the Hatches
-
E3 6b  
104 Elliptical Route
-
S  
105 Elliptical Face VS 4c 4
106 Cave Groove S  
107 Central West Rib
-
S  
108 Ellipsis
-
E1 5b  
109 The Clam
-
HS 4c  
110 East Ridge of Bracket Gully
-
VD  
111 Bracket Gully
-
D  
112 West Ridge of Bracket Gully
-
S  
113 Parallel Grooves
-
S  
114 Bracketside Spout
-
VS 4c  
115 Slantside Spout
-
S  
116 A Twisted Cage
-
E1 5b  
117 Slanting Wall Cracks
-
S  
118 Slanting Gully and Slanting Wall
-
M  
119 A Friend in Deed
-
VS 4c  
120 Keep Left
-
HVS 5b  
121 Slanting Gully
-
S  
  Slanting Buttress
123 Slanting Gully Rib
-
S  
124 Needle Traverse Climb
-
VD  
125 Llid
-
VS 4c  
126 Slanting Buttress Ridge Route
-
D ** 319
127 Westerner
-
S  
128 Far West String Climb
-
S  
129 Soule's Groove
-
VS 4b  
  Winter Routes
131 Chute de Niege VI 6 ***  
132 East Gully
-
IV * 2
133 East Peak via the Horned Crag IV *  
134 East Peak Direct
-
V *  
135 White Dove
-
V *  
136 Shallow Gully IV *  
137 Shallow Gully Direct VI 5 ***  
138 Central Gully
-
V *** 1
139 Central Gully Direct VI *** 2
140 Central Gully Arete
-
IV *  
141 The West Peak IV * 2
142 Bracket Gully V 4/5 ***  
143 Slanting Gully
-
V 4/6 ** 11
144 Cool Water Sandwich
-
IV *  
145 Freshwater Baguette
-
IV 5 *  
146 Skiver's Gully
-
III  
147 Western Gully
-
II  

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