Climbs 142
Rocktype Rhyolite
Altitude 898m a.s.l
Faces N

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Avalanche/Red Wall/Longland's Continuation (S) on Lliwedd © Mark Reeves

Crag features

The highest cliff in England & Wales was also one of the first to be explored by the 19th Century pioneers training for the greater ranges, the Climber's Club published their first guidebook for Lliwedd and many famous names have left their mark on the mountain.

The decision was made by the Lliwedd guidebook author to ommit *stars* from the latest edition so do not be put off by starless routes, routes that have been given stars in select and winter guidebooks have been shown here. Lliwedd is a serious cliff with a reputation for difficult route-finding, poor protection and being hopelessly difficult when wet.

Must do routes include: Slanting Buttress Ridge Route (D), Horned Crag Route (VD), Avalanche, Red Wall and Longland's Continuation (S), The Sword (VS) and Terminator (E1).

Approach notes

The usual approach is by following the Miner's Track from Pen-y-Pass to Llyn Llydaw before contouring above the South shore and striking directly up to the required area of the cliff base.

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Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info

North Wales Classics

A significant addition to the Rockfax stable; North Wales Classics is a pocket-sized guide packs in hundreds of superb routes throughout the mountains of Snowdonia. From Tremadog to Tryfan, and everywhere in between, the book covers mid-grade routes on the best crags and features top-notch photo-topos and inspirational action shots taking you where you want to go.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Rock (2006)
Lliwedd (1998)

Out of print:
Climbed on a fine day in September- were the only climbers on the crag-(not counting the 8 ravens) 10 great pitches/800 foot of lovely easy climbing-must rank as my best multi pitch experience.
bobpilgrem - 16/Sep/10
Lliwedd has arguably the best (certainly the longest)mountaineering routes in England and Wales. Plenty of holds on the classic routes, but can be awkward in the wet. Old-fashioned and uncrowded - great!
Mac B - 05/Aug/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Y Lliwedd - West Peak
2 Y Lliwedd West summit
-
summit 463
  Y Lliwedd - East Peak
4 Y Lliwedd East summit
-
summit 295
  Other Routes
6 Traverse of Lliwedd
-
1 ** 274
7 Far West Route
-
VS 4c  
8 The Girdle Traverse VD  
9 The Garter VS  
10 The Anklet S  
  Far East Buttress
12 Cracks Rib VD  
13 Far East Cracks
-
HS 1
14 Far East Arete
-
VD  
15 The Clean Way
-
S  
16 The Spark E2 5b  
17 Route 3
-
VD  
18 The Great Chute
-
VD  
19 Offshoot 1
-
HVS 5b  
20 Offshoot 2
-
HVS 5a  
21 East Gully Ordinary Route
-
D 2
22 Thoroughly Unjustifiable
-
E2 5a  
23 East Gully Right Branch
-
HS  
24 The Runnel
-
S  
  East Buttress
26 Horned Crag Route VD * 218
27 Stack Shelf - Great Terrace Connection
-
M 1
28 Yellow Slab
-
HS  
29 Yellow Rib
-
VD  
30 Potentilla Rib
-
S  
31 Yellow Slab - Purgatory Connection
-
S  
32 Yellow Slab Direct
-
E2 5c  
33 Paradise/The Black Arete HS 4a * 33
34 Paradise
-
HS 4a * 40
35 Purgatory
-
VS 4c  
36 Perdition
-
S  
37 The Unimportant Variant
-
VD  
38 Route 1
-
VD  
39 Avalanche
-
VD *** 124
40 Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands S 4b ** 485
41 Enigma Variations
-
E3 5c  
42 Sideline
-
E1 5a  
43 Twister HVS 5a  
44 Birch Tree Terrace - Avalanche Connection
-
VD  
45 Central Chimney VD 4
46 Terminator E1 5b ** 38
47 Birch Tree Variant
-
S  
48 Birch Tree Terrace Climb
-
HS  
49 Dress Rehearsal Rag
-
E1 5a  
50 Roof Route
-
VD  
51 Birch Tree Sidle
-
VD  
Climb name Grade
52 Solomon
-
S  
53 Terminal Arete
-
M * 75
54 Purple Passage
-
HS  
55 Red Wall and Longland's Continuation
-
VD *** 177
56 I Got You Babe
-
E1 5c 1
57 The Sword/Route 2 VS 4c * 37
58 The Sword
-
VS 5a 68
59 Route 2
-
S 49
60 Child's Face Climb
-
S  
61 Easy Way to the Bowling Green
-
VD  
62 Fandango
-
E2 5b  
63 Shallow Gully
-
HS 4
64 Verbal Abuse
-
E4 6a  
65 Bowling Green Groove
-
VS  
66 Mallory's Slab
-
VD ** 16
67 Bowling Green Slab
-
S  
68 Bowling Green Buttress
-
VS 4c 1
69 Easy Way Above the Bowling Green
-
M  
70 Ochre Slab
-
VS 4a  
71 Wrong Chimney
-
S  
72 Flanking Slabs of Great Chimney
-
HS  
73 Flanker
-
E2 5b  
74 A Good Day Out
-
VS  
75 Great Chimney
-
VD 2
76 West Wall of Great Chimney
-
D  
77 Bowling Green - Central Gully Connections
-
VD  
  Central Gully
79 Central Gully and East Peak
-
VD  
80 The Squiggle
-
VS 4c  
81 Reade's Crack
-
HS  
82 Swastika
-
HVS 5a  
83 Central Gully Direct
-
E1 5b  
84 Drivel
-
HVS 4c  
85 Fylfot
-
VD  
86 Central Gully and West Peak
-
D  
  West Buttress
88 First Groove
-
M  
89 Intermediate Route
-
D  
90 Third Groove
-
D  
91 Primitive Route
-
D  
92 Direct Route
-
S  
93 Craig yr Aderyn Route
-
D  
94 The Bilberry Terrace
-
3S *** 60
95 The Bender
-
E3 6a  
96 Three Pinnacle Start to Craig yr Aderyn
-
VD  
97 Big Deal VS 4c 1
98 Cruel Crack
-
E2 5c  
99 Three Pinnacle Gully HS 2
100 The Fat Lady's Aria
-
E4 6b  
101 Exploding Buttress
-
E2 5c  
102 Another Fine Mess
-
E2 5c  
Climb name Grade
103 Rocker Route
-
D 2
104 Rocker Ridge
-
VS 4c  
105 Siren Crack
-
E3 6a  
106 Old Friends
-
E3 6a  
107 Closing the Hatches
-
E3 6b  
108 Elliptical Route
-
S  
109 Elliptical Face VS 4c 4
110 Cave Groove S  
111 Central West Rib
-
S  
112 Ellipsis
-
E1 5b  
113 The Clam
-
HS 4c  
114 East Ridge of Bracket Gully
-
VD  
115 Bracket Gully
-
D  
116 West Ridge of Bracket Gully
-
S  
117 Parallel Grooves
-
S  
118 Bracketside Spout
-
VS 4c  
119 Slantside Spout
-
S  
120 A Twisted Cage
-
E1 5b  
121 Slanting Wall Cracks
-
S  
122 Slanting Gully and Slanting Wall
-
M  
123 A Friend in Deed
-
VS 4c  
124 Keep Left
-
HVS 5b  
125 Slanting Gully
-
S  
  Slanting Buttress
127 Slanting Gully Rib
-
S  
128 Needle Traverse Climb
-
VD  
129 Llid
-
VS 4c  
130 Slanting Buttress Ridge Route
-
D ** 259
131 Westerner
-
S  
132 Far West String Climb
-
S  
133 Soule's Groove
-
VS 4b  
  Winter Routes
135 Chute de Niege VI 6 ***  
136 East Gully
-
IV * 2
137 East Peak via the Horned Crag IV *  
138 East Peak Direct
-
V *  
139 White Dove
-
V *  
140 Shallow Gully IV *  
141 Shallow Gully Direct VI 5 ***  
142 Central Gully
-
V *** 1
143 Central Gully Direct VI *** 2
144 Central Gully Arete
-
IV *  
145 The West Peak IV * 2
146 Bracket Gully V 4/5 ***  
147 Slanting Gully
-
V 4/6 ** 9
148 Cool Water Sandwich
-
IV *  
149 Freshwater Baguette
-
IV 5 *  
150 Skiver's Gully
-
III  
151 Western Gully
-
II  

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