Climbs 27
Rocktype Shale

Faces S

Bouldering in Downderry Cave © salamandra

Crag features

The Wave is the best known problem. This awesome wave of shale/quartz gives a 10 metre stamina traverse at V6. Sand height varies. As well as the butch stuff there is tenuous smearing on the first boulders and for the trad climber prepared for a walk there are some routes at the far end of the beach.

Approach notes

Park in Downderry and head down public footpath next to school onto beach. Head East along Beach over several rocky spurs for approx. 500 metres to crag. Alternatively drop down to the beach at the hairpin bend. Some non-tidal bouldering; the main bouldering is tidal, so the best time to go is 3 hours after high tide thus giving you 6 hours of climbing; ideal low tide time is 3pm-6pm due to aspect.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Flat Top Traverse V2 5c * 3
  The First Boulders
3 Cornflake Arete V6 6b+ 5
4 Special K V3 6a 2
5 Slippery Slab V3 5c/6a 4
6 Vague Groove V1 5b 6
7 Sidepull V2 5c 3
8 Left Side of Right Arete V0 5a 5
9 Right Side of Right Arete V0 4a 5
10 Buried Treasure V3 6a 2
  The Promontory
12 The Wave
-
V6 6a/b *** 4
13 Link between Wave and Undercut
-
V0+ 5a 3
14 The Undercut
-
V6 6b 3
15 Up problem atLH end of Undercut
-
V2 5c 1
16 The Promontory
-
V3 5c ** 1
  The Cave
18 The Cave
-
V2 5c ** 3
19 The Cave Both Ways V3 5c ** 3
20 LH Crack
-
V8 6c  
21 RH Crack
-
V4 6a 2
  The Long stone
23 La De dah
-
S 4b 1
24 The Fang Direct
-
E2 5b 1
25 Fang Arete
-
E3 5b 1
26 Long Rock Climb
-
VD 1
  Cargloth Cliffs
28 Shlong
-
HS 4b 1
29 Infelation
-
HVS 5a 1
30 The Queen of Rock
-
S 4a 1
31 Left Feeling a Little Queer
-
HS 4b 1

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