Climbs 27
Rocktype Shale

Faces S

Bouldering in Downderry Cave © salamandra

Crag features

The Wave is the best known problem. This awesome wave of shale/quartz gives a 10 metre stamina traverse at V6. Sand height varies. As well as the butch stuff there is tenuous smearing on the first boulders and for the trad climber prepared for a walk there are some routes at the far end of the beach.

Approach notes

Park in Downderry and head down public footpath next to school onto beach. Head East along Beach over several rocky spurs for approx. 500 metres to crag. Alternatively drop down to the beach at the hairpin bend. Some non-tidal bouldering; the main bouldering is tidal, so the best time to go is 3 hours after high tide thus giving you 6 hours of climbing; ideal low tide time is 3pm-6pm due to aspect.

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Climbs at this crag

 The Promontory 
12The Wave
V6 ***3
13Link between Wave and Undercut
V0+ 2
14The Undercut
V6 2
15Up problem atLH end of Undercut
16The Promontory
V3 ** 
 The Cave 
18The Cave
V2 **2
19The Cave Both WaysV3 **2
20LH Crack
21RH Crack
V4 1
 The Long stone 
23La De dah
S 4b 1
24The Fang Direct
E2 5b 1
25Fang Arete
E3 5b 1
26Long Rock Climb
VD 1
 Cargloth Cliffs 
HS 4b 1
HVS 5a 1
30The Queen of Rock
S 4a 1
31Left Feeling a Little Queer
HS 4b 1

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