Climbs 30
Rocktype Quartzite

Cullen Caves © John Brown

Crag features

No-tidal, steep bouldering throughout several caves. Still some steep potential. There are a number of sport projects as well, although the bolts have corroded and are in need of replacing.

The rock can be a little chossy in places, primarily due to the lack of traffic, but the vast majority of problems are on good rock and of a high quality!

The landings are mostly excellent, although care must be taken as there may be broken glass/debris scattered under problems courtesy of the local yobs! Most of this has now been removed but best keep an eye out. Mats are advisable.

An excellent topo is available at http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Cullen_Caves

Approach notes

From Cullen: The caves are a five minutes walk from the beach at Cullen which has plenty of car parking. Walk up the beach past the golf course and join the path, the caves are obvious on the left.

From Portknockie: Park at the playpark and cross the fields to a sign on the cliff where there are concrete steps which will take you to the caves past Jennys Well.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Underworld Area
2 Birdshit f7A ** 2
3 Slap My Beach Up f7A ** 7
4 Scotts Nose f7A+ **  
5 The Dentist f7B  
6 Underworld f7B+ *** 1
7 Cerberus f7C **  
8 Edge Of The World f6B+ * 5
  St Duane's Den
10 Layback Crack f6A+ 5
11 Double Pinch Traverse f6B+ 3
12 Twister f7B+ ***  
13 Duane's World Sit Start f7A+ **  
14 St Duane's Direct f7A+ ** 4
15 Duane's World f7A * 9
16 St Joseph Direct * f7B ** 1
17 Reverse Traverse f6B+  
  Sports Cave
19 Silly Soup f6A 2
20 Warm Up Traverse f5+ 12
21 Low Warm Up Traverse f6A 12
22 Cullen Skank f7A *** 8
23 Fishy Fingers f6A+ 10
24 Problem 4 f6B 15
25 Problem 5 Left Hand f6C * 10
26 Problem 5 f6B 5
27 To The Sea! f7A ** 2
  St Steven's Cave
29 Kill All Hippies f6B * 6
30 Flower Power f6C+ *** 2
31 The Thorn f7A *  
32 The Rose f7B ** 1
33 Welcome! f6B 3
34 Protected By Roses f6C  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
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