Cullen Caves © John Brown
No-tidal, steep bouldering throughout several caves. Still some steep potential. There are a number of sport projects as well, although the bolts have corroded and are in need of replacing.
The rock can be a little chossy in places, primarily due to the lack of traffic, but the vast majority of problems are on good rock and of a high quality!
The landings are mostly excellent, although care must be taken as there may be broken glass/debris scattered under problems courtesy of the local yobs! Most of this has now been removed but best keep an eye out. Mats are advisable.
An excellent topo is available at http://www.scottishclimbs.com/wiki/Cullen_Caves
From Cullen: The caves are a five minutes walk from the beach at Cullen which has plenty of car parking. Walk up the beach past the golf course and join the path, the caves are obvious on the left.
From Portknockie: Park at the playpark and cross the fields to a sign on the cliff where there are concrete steps which will take you to the caves past Jennys Well.
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|3||Slap My Beach Up||f7A **||10|
|4||Scotts Nose||f7A+ **|
|8||Edge Of The World||f6B+ *||5|
|St Duane's Den|
|11||Double Pinch Traverse||f6B+||3|
|13||Duane's World Sit Start||f7A+ **|
|14||St Duane's Direct||f7A+ **||4|
|15||Duane's World||f7A *||10|
|16||St Joseph Direct||f7B **||1|
|20||Warm Up Traverse||f5+||12|
|21||Low Warm Up Traverse||f6A||12|
|22||Cullen Skank||f7A ***||10|
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