Climbs 183
Rocktype Andesite
Altitude 973m a.s.l
Faces S

Crag features

Very little known outside of Allier and certainly beyond the Auvergne, the Rocher Saint Vincent offers absolutely tons of tremendous routes for lower and middle grade climbers (F2+ to F7a). Most climbs are in the 20m range, but some stretch to 70m (twin ropes are not necessary however as regular lower offs or escapes are placed). The Rocher St Vincent itself is principally a magnificent pillar of volcanic rock jutting upwards from a high forested hillside ridge, but the climbing incorporates a number of the hillside's subsidury buttresses. With many of these buttresses offering 360 degree climbing the hot sun can be avoided or climbed in dependent on desire for a tan and the forest also offers shade. The routes are generally very quick drying and the bolts and lower-offs well maintained.

Approach notes

No restrictions.

Situated within 15 miles of the Spa town of Vichy (of mint and puppet World War II government fame). The best approach is to head from Vichy and reach the village of Ferrieres sur Sichon (Boloungerie, Restaurant, post office, campsite, and tourist information which sells climbing guide for whole region and maps). From here take the D995 south east for roughly 10km. The Rocher St Vincent is signposted by a brown sign left, take this and reach a small car park. The main Rocher is sign posted and involves a 5minute walk, while the Pierre Fendue buttresses are 200m further up the road from the car park.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Rocher Principal
  Petite Rocher
  Dalle Grise
  Castor
  Pollux
  Rocher Greffier
  Rocher de L'Enceinte
  Pierre Fendue (Rocher de Gauche)
9 Qui s'y frotte, s'y pique
-
3+ 1
10 Toujours plus
-
6b  
11 Tout Se complique
-
6a  
12 La Colle en Jette 5c  
13 Kriquiti
-
5c  
14 La Lionne Elle
-
5c  
15 Bidule Buck
-
5c  
16 Couche-culotte
-
4c 1
17 Ariba
-
4a 1
18 Blaise
-
3+ 1
19 Object Culte
-
6a  
20 Cloporte
-
4c 1
21 Quel Bouleau
-
6b  
22 Lune de fiel
-
5a  
23 Sassage du Soir
-
3 1
24 Bingo
-
4a 1
25 Haut les mains 3 2
26 Dolce Vita 4c ** 2
27 Tintin au bidet
-
3+ 2
28 Crunch
-
4c 1
29 Sika Dur
-
5a 2
  Pierre Fendue (Rocher de Droite)
31 L'alpine
-
3+ 1
32 P'tit Pere
-
3+ 1
33 P'tit Muscle
-
4a 1
34 Bourach Bouif
-
4c  
35 Burnes' One
-
5a  
36 La genie de alpages
-
5a  
37 Rock and pof
-
6a  
38 La diedre gris 3 ** 1
39 Digitale
-
5c  
40 Propaganda
-
4c 1
41 Prends des gants 4c **  
42 La Traditional HVS 5a *** 1
43 Oh no, pas la
-
6b  
44 Syllogisme
-
5a  
45 NRJ
-
5c  
46 Mimi Cracra
-
4c  
47 Ignitron
-
5c  
48 Legitme Violence
-
6a+  
49 Souffre Douleur
-
6a  
50 La lave vaisselle
-
6a  
51 Club Barbie
-
4c 1

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