Climbs 26
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 180m a.s.l
Faces SW

The access cave/slot from the upper tier. Routes B-D are on the bulge to the right © sheppy

Crag features

Excellent little sport crag situated in the Foret de Campagne, giving pitches up to 15m on excellent non polished rock. Good gear and 25 routes with a sector d'initiation of a further 9 short routes. No available topo and no route names or grades on the rock at the foot of the routes.
The crag is divided into two tiers by a prominent ledge and the bulk of the climbing is on the upper tier. access to this is gained by walking up the left side of the crag to a rocky bay then going through a narrow cave/slot. This cave/slot has been made the focus of a well known and clever local art work "Trompe L'Oeil".
The lower tier has three routes and the beginners area.

Approach notes

15 min walk in from good parking.
Park in the "Foret de Campagne" car park which is located opposite the well appointed campsite on the D35.
Leave the carpark at the end nearest the village and head up some steps to reach a wide level track running parallel to the D35. Follow this for 500m back towards the village until an ancient stone staircase can be located leading up the hill where you will find some artifitial caves. Turn left for 30m. The path forks, take the right hand, less well defined path. Another few metres up this and you will rejoin the main path which has taken a big loop round to reach the same spot. Turn right and follow this small path for about 150m, ignore the first turn off to the left (there is a sign of "no way" but it is only for mountain bikers). Take the second turn that has a post saying "Escalade" which leads to the foot of the lower tier and a crag info board.

This crag is in the French guide Escalade en Perigord listed as Le Roc Fayard, Campagne du Bugue. With names and grades of 33 routes except for the sector initiation.
Andy Edgar - 12/Feb/15
Pretty cool place. Nice access with a initiation area for some tutuition or warm up and some very good routes. The grade is a bit harder of what we are used in SW England but I think this is generic to all France. Amazing views from most of the routes! Thank you for registering this carg at UKC!
FernandoHidalgo - 07/Oct/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Secteur D'Initiation. 3a 2
  Le Grand Pilier
3 Deux points c'est Tout 6b *  
4 Escalade-canyoning 5c ** 2
5 Pilier Classique 6a * 2
6 Petit Vertige 6a ** 4
  Secteur du Bombé
8 Les Sens du Vent 6b+ * 3
9 Brahms nocturnes 6c+ * 2
10 De Bacs a Bethov 7a * 2
11 À Bras Raccourcix 5c  
Climb name Grade
  Le Grand Diedre
13 Targiversions 6c * 3
14 Mal Versation 6a *  
15 Les Musaraignes Défaillent 6a  
16 Partir Demain 6b  
17 Quèfayou 6c *  
18 Campanulacée 5b 3
19 Chat Gris 6a+ ** 2
  Face Grise
21 Entract 5c * 3
22 Grise Âtre 6a+ ** 1
Climb name Grade
23 D'un Pic à l'Autre 6b **  
24 Sans États d'Âmes 6b *  
  Secteur Ocre et Pilier Ouest
26 L'Écureuil Volant 6c *** 2
27 Promenade en Ocre Claire 6a *  
28 Pas squale 6c+  
29 Campanien d'un Jour 5c *  
30 Fessure 6a  
31 Que Dalle 5c *  

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers sheppy and FernandoHidalgo