Climbs 48
Rocktype Grit (quarried)

Faces NE

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Jonny in Wilton 4 © Jason123

Crag features

Short bouldery routes on one side and slabby routes on the other. Recent cleaning efforts have improved landings and topouts on the left section, meaning all of the Sanction Wall routes can be approached in the modern highball style, with multiple pads and spotters. Many of these are now clean and in a climbable state for the first time in three decades.

The quarry is green but fairly fast-drying. There is also a good bouldering circuit with some stiff challenges up to font 7C.

Approach notes

Lies just before the corner at the top of the scout road. Further up than Wilton 2 and 3. Wilton 4 is shared with the gun club. Climbers have priority on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. On other days climbers may use the quarry but should make way if shooters arrive.

Restricted Access

Wilton 2 and 4 are owned by Bolton Rifle & Pistol Club with agreed times for shooting and climbing - live firing takes place and it is vital that climbers understand and stick to the access arrangements.

In W2 and 4, climbers have priority on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. On days when shooters have priority (and the red warning flags are not in place), climbers can access the quarries for climbing, but they should leave at the shooters request. Please try to avoid the temptation of assuming that the ranges are not being used until at least mid-afternoon. On days when climbers have priority, the shooters can use the sites if climbers are not present when they arrive. However, if climbers arrive, shooting must cease. Please allow them a reasonable time to clear up.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Sally VS 5c 3
2 Teacher's Crack E4 6c * 1
3 Hell's Bells E5 6b ** 3
4 White Horse E4 6b 3
5 Haig E2 6b * 3
6 Johnnie Walker VS 5a 14
7 Long John VS 5c 7
8 Neat Whiskey VS 6a * 12
9 Dimple VS 5b 5
10 Mort Subite E5 6c 1
11 Glenfiddich HVS 5b * 1
12 Suspended in Cryonics E5 6c 1
13 100 Pipers HS 4a  
14 Cutty Sark HVS 5b 2
15 Lady Ice E5 6b * 2
16 Cold Emotions E4 5c 4
Climb name Grade
17 Inverted Triangle HS 4a * 6
18 Dewar's HS 4a 1
19 Vat 69 VS 5a 3
20 Clan Dew S 4a 1
21 Central Avenue HVS 5a 1
22 Cossack Crack E2 5b * 6
23 Smirnoff VS 4c 2
24 Martell E2 5c 5
25 Dry Cane E2 5c 5
26 Gordon's S 4a 14
27 EKU 28 E3 5c * 18
28 Coke S 4a 6
29 Bacardi S 4a 24
30 Pasty Man VS 4b 3
31 Pedestal Crack D 13
32 Daiquiri D 16

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