Climbs 74
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)

Faces E

Sweet Revenge © Jonny Tee 69

Crag features

The original home of Scottish sport climbing. Most routes in the F6a - F6c range, and are mostly 10 - 15m long. The climbing tends to be fingery and reachy, progress being dependent on horizontal breaks in the sandstone, along with the odd pocket.

"Must do" routes: Driller Killer (F6c), Flight of the Mad Magician (F6b), No Remorse (F6c+), Spandex Ballet (F7a+), Playing with Fire (F6c).

Approach notes

Lies just off the A933 Brechin to Arbroath road, just south of Friockheim.

Limited parking beside the quarry.

No dogs allowed. New access law means dogs cannot be excluded unless a local byelaw is in place. They must of course be kept under control.

been up climbing here quite a lot in last few weeks most routes dry, pulled a massive block off the rocking stone f4 at the start just missed me would stay away from this route still big lose rock needing a good clean up
allymac85 - 13/Apr/11
Flight of the Magic Magician - barry wee climb with a crafty move required.
220bpm - 15/Nov/05
fuckin amasin
george smith - 04/Nov/04
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Ring Buttress / Sunshine Wall
2 Choss D 12
3 Grot D 5
4 Ego Trip
-
D 47
5 Flightpath VS 4c 24
6 Crowbar Crack S 59
7 The Killing Fields 6a 81
8 Armygeddon 5c * 208
9 Driller Killer
-
6c * 111
10 Trial by Dimension 7a 12
11 Flight of the Mad Magician 6b ** 189
12 Seconds Out
-
6a 120
13 Seconds Out (trad) E1 5b 8
14 Plod
-
M 24
15 Contraflow
-
VS 4b 3
  Main Wall Left
17 Ratbag 6a * 91
18 Hunt the Ratbag
-
6b * 63
19 Death is the Hunter
-
6b+ * 70
20 Sweet Revenge
-
6a+ ** 130
21 Sweet Revenge (trad)
-
E1 5b ** 10
22 Junk Man Blues
-
6a+ 63
23 Between the Lines 5c 140
24 Bomber
-
6a+ 111
25 Happy Days
-
S 13
26 Brian the Snail
-
6a 39
27 Brian the Snail Direct
-
7b 13
28 The Rocking Stone
-
4a 47
29 The Rocking Stone (trad)
-
S 12
30 The Head
-
S 4
  Main Wall Right
32 March of Dimes 6a 54
33 Shoot to Kill
-
5c * 75
34 Overkill
-
6b * 31
35 Desperate Measures
-
6b 20
36 Staircase A
-
D 3
37 Fire at Will
-
4c 19
38 Staircase B
-
D 3
39 Walking the Straight Line
-
4c 24
40 Ain't no Rolling Stone
-
4c 18
41 The Rack
-
4c 12
42 Lemon Squeezy
-
4c 6
  Rotten Wall
44 The Golden Shot
-
6b+ * 5
45 Charred and Damned Desire
-
7b * 1
46 The Hunting Swan
-
6b+  
47 First to Fall
-
6b+ * 13
48 Hell's Bells
-
6c * 7
49 Fire Down Below
-
6a+ 16
50 Demolition Man
-
5c 16
51 The Big J
-
6b 4
52 Rockets Secret Machine
-
7a+ * 1
53 Everything Must Go
-
6a 8
54 Edge of Darkness
-
6a * 6
  Forbidden Buttress
56 Purple Haze
-
VS 4b 13
57 Night-time Sorrows
-
VS 4c * 11
58 Virgin Crack VD 17
59 Kiss of Death
-
VS 4b 5
60 Direct Access
-
6c * 14
61 No Remorse
-
6c+ *** 48
62 Spandex Ballet
-
7a+ *** 25
  Babylon Buttress (Wet Wall)
64 Sign of the Scorpion
-
E1 5b * 1
65 She Conceives Destruction
-
7a 1
66 Aerodynamic
-
7b 1
67 Lymphomaniac
-
6a 1
68 Roxanne
-
4a * 3
69 Diss!
-
6b 1
70 Nymphocyte
-
6b+ * 1
71 Playing with Fire
-
6c ** 2
72 Les morts Dansant
-
7a * 6
73 Necrosis
-
6a * 17
  Rose Wall
75 Rootworks
-
S  
76 Exodus
-
5a 2
77 The Weasel
-
6a+ * 6
78 Remain in Light
-
6b+ 1
79 Caprica
-
VS 4b 1
80 Winky
-
VS 4c 1
81 Gary's Route
-
S  

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Hamfunk