Climbs 153
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Pete Gunn on Armathwaites Full Frontal, E6 6a © OllieF

Crag features

A good sandstone crag in an idyllic location by the river. Recent and ongoing extensive tree clearance has opened up and dried out all of the right end of the crag - more routes should now be in condition throughout the year.

Classic's include King Fisher (VD) Glenwille Grooves (HS), Flasherman (VS), Erection (HVS), Barnacle Bill (E1), Paper Moon (E3), Exorcist (E4) and Free and Easy (E5). Some harder routes are quite bold, and the less frequented routes might need a gentle brush before leading (a towel works best).

PLEASE NOTE
Protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory and many of the first ascents, especially of the hardest climbs, involved abseil inspection and top rope practice prior to the lead. This should be born in mind by anyone considering an "on-sight" lead.

If setting top ropes, please make sure to extend the ropes over the edges to stop erosion and cutting grooves. 

Please be kind to the rock when leading, its probably best not to test that sound looking nut behind that flake in a fall!
There is also plentiful steep bouldering by the river and elsewhere.

The bouldering problems listed here are taken from the Eden Valley FRCC Guide (Sandy Bay). Hetherington's Bay problems (Photo Topo) https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=278636 Split Boulder problems (Photo Topo) https://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=195147 Further problems including the new roof! can be found on Lakesbloc.com

Many of the N.L. routes are slowly being whittled down so you may need to cross reference with the FRCC Eden Valley Guide to see what ones are left for you to do!

Approach notes

Park by the bridge and go through the squeeze style in the parapet of the downstream side of the bridge, and a short flight of steps, leads to a path under the bridge and up stream along the bank of the river. After 800m the path forks above a natural weir. Keep left for the main cliff and scramble down some rocky steps to come out just above Sandy Bay area.

Massive tree clearance is renovating the crag, the whole right end end is very open and sunny and many more routes here deserve climbing!
Fiend - 19/Jul/17
All bouldering problems on "sandy bay" are now from the FRCC guide to the Eden Valley. Most problems are eliminate and the new guide shows whats what more clearly, rather than the lakesbloc guide.
petegunn - 15/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Faces Buttress
2 F.B.S.J
-
VD 7
3 Blank's Expression
-
VS 5a 3
4 Boomerang
-
VS 4b * 13
5 Aborigine
-
HVS 4c * 3
6 Cook's Left Hand
-
VS 4b * 5
7 Cook's Crack
-
VS 4b * 5
8 Cook's Apron
-
VS 4c * 4
9 Cook's Tour HVS 5a/b ** 6
10 Blockbuster
-
HS 4a 6
11 Tree Antics MVS 2
12 A Big Hand
-
S 16
  Sandy Bay
14 Kingfisher VD ** 211
15 Kaleidoscope Eyes
-
E2 5b * 2
16 Grey Duster
-
E3 6a ** 4
17 The Arete
-
E3 6c ** 6
18 Time and Motion Man
-
E1 5b ** 89
19 The Orbit E4 6a *** 2
20 Blue Lugs
-
E5 5c * 6
21 The Exorcist E4 5c *** 85
22 Blast Off
-
E4 6a * 5
23 Glenwille Grooves Direct
-
MVS * 84
24 Glenwillie Grooves
-
HS 4b ** 375
  Sandy Bay bouldering
26 Problem 1 (Green Dots) LakesBloc Problem 10
-
V3 *** 37
27 Problem 2 (Red Dots)
-
V4 ** 42
28 Problem 3 (Yellow Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 9 V7 ** 27
29 Problem 4 (Blue Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 7 V6 *** 39
30 Problem 5 (Pink Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 5 V6 ** 16
31 Problem 6 (Black Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 6
-
V5 ** 51
32 Problem 7 (White Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 2 V2 71
33 Problem 8 (Blue Line) Lakesbloc Problem 1 V3 ** 24
34 Problem 9 (Red Line) V3 ** 26
35 Problem 10 (Pump Loop, Yellow Line) V3 ** 33
  Harry's Groove Area
37 Harry's Arete
-
E1 5b 5
38 Harry's Groove
-
HS 4b 19
39 Smiling Faces
-
VS 4b 23
40 The Thirty-Nine Steps VD * 67
  Stinkhorn Buttress
42 Ducking Drop
-
E1 5a * 2
43 Herbie
-
VS 4c 3
44 Meat is Murder
-
E2 5b ** 3
45 Stinkhorn Arete E2 5b ** 2
46 Astral Wall E3 6a * 4
47 Stinkhorn
-
S 4
  Hetherington's Bay Problems and Routes
49 Mini Roof f5+ 11
50 Indian's Revenge Start f5+ 9
51 Roof Left-hand f6A+ 5
52 Roof Middle f6C 4
53 Roof Right-hand f6A 12
54 Joe Soap's Start f4+ 11
55 Jeff's Wall f6C 8
56 Scary Arete f6B 9
Climb name Grade
57 Hooked Up Start f6A 7
58 Hand Traverse with overhanging loop f6A+ 4
59 Petit Mal
-
VD 15
60 Nosescratcher
-
HS 11
61 Indian's Revenge
-
E5 6a * 7
62 Joe Soap's Corner
-
VS 4b 33
63 Cally Crack
-
E2 5b ** 41
  Central Buttress
65 Princess Anne's New Ring
-
S 78
66 Hooked Up E3 5c 5
67 The Monkeyhanger
-
HVS 4c ** 71
68 The Schnuck VS 4c * 9
69 Bullgine Run
-
VD ** 242
70 Wildcat on the Swallowtail Line
-
HS ** 17
71 Savage Simian
-
HVS 4c ** 12
72 Savage Simian/Monkeyhanger Finish HVS 4c ** 1
73 Janet of the Apes
-
VS 4c 3
74 Victory V
-
E2 5b * 3
75 The Overhanging Crack Finish
-
E2 5b 3
76 Zephyr
-
VD 7
77 Back from Bezingi E1 5b/c * 3
78 Ituna
-
S 72
79 Douber
-
HS 4a * 9
80 Flasherman
-
VS 4c *** 358
81 Flasherman Direct
-
HVS 5a * 25
82 Erection E1 5a *** 213
83 Viennese Oyster
-
E3 5c ** 3
84 Soft Touch
-
E4 5c ** 2
85 Erection Arete
-
E4 5c * 3
86 Full Frontal E6 6a ** 5
87 A Bit on the Side E4 5c ** 2
88 Nurts Way
-
HVS 5a 3
  Dome Slab Area
90 Close Encounters
-
E2 5c * 3
91 Mellow
-
E4 5c * 1
92 Talking to Trees
-
E4 5c ** 7
93 Cat Walk
-
VS 4c ** 15
94 Beyond the Thunder Dome
-
E5 6b * 1
95 Dome Slab
-
E6 6a *** 6
  Under the Dome (Bouldering)
97 Barbies Army f6C 3
98 Root Canal f6A 4
99 Criss Cross f6A 3
100 Chester's Mill f6B 3
101 Bengis Khan f6B 4
102 Benthusiasm f5+ 4
103 Staircase Traverse f6B+ 3
  The Split Boulder
105 Split Boulder Problem 1 f6B 6
106 Split Boulder Problem 2 (Crack) f6A 21
107 Split Boulder Problem 3 f6B+ ** 17
108 Split Boulder Problem 3 (without crack) f7A+ ** 4
109 Split Boulder Problem 4 f7B+ ** 4
110 Split Boulder Problem 5 f6B ** 9
  Red Buttress
112 Good Dog Glen
-
VS 4c 2
Climb name Grade
113 Red Spider
-
E2 5b 4
114 Red Monkey
-
E1 5b ** 7
115 Red Lion
-
HVS 5a 9
116 Fox and Pheasant
-
HVS 5a 2
  Paper Moon Area
118 Coombs Crack
-
HVS 5a 7
119 Wafer Thin
-
E5 6b ** 8
120 Paper Moon E4 5c ** 67
121 Bad Moon Rising E5 6a 5
122 Devil Moon none 6b/c 6
123 Lunar Sea E7 6c ** 2
124 New Moon
-
E5 6b * 4
125 Moondance
-
E1 5b * 2
  Free and Easy
127 The Mantleshelf
-
V2 2
128 Moving Pictures
-
none 6a/b 2
129 One Hand Clapping
-
E6 6a * 2
130 Free and Easy
-
E4 5c ** 58
131 Armaments E6 6c ** 1
132 Plain Sailing E7 6b ** 7
133 Sailing Shoes E7 6b ** 15
134 Mr Bundy's Best Friend
-
E5 6a 1
135 The Crescent
-
E3 5b ** 20
136 The High Girdle
-
E6 6a/b  
137 Jelly Terror
-
E1 5b * 66
138 Rise and Shine none 5c * 1
  The Steps Boulder
140 Look, No Hands! f2+ 3
141 Banzai SDS f5 7
142 Komono f6A+ 4
143 Bonsai SDS f5+ 7
  The Slab. Many Lines Are Unprotected Highballs!
145 Crescent Arete
-
E6 6a ** 18
146 Y Front
-
E2 5b * 29
147 Barnacle Bill
-
E1 5b ** 222
148 Limpet Lil
-
E2 5c * 5
149 Scallop f6C *** 18
150 Lenny Limpet f6B+ *** 33
151 The Limpet Leap f6B ** 11
152 Andy's Slab E4 6a ** 47
153 Andy's Slab Variation Finish f6A+ * 6
154 Winkle Picker f6B+ * 4
155 Codpiece Left Hand
-
E1 5b * 44
156 Codpiece E3 6a ** 50
157 PickPocket E3 5c ** 12
158 PickPocket Superdirect
-
E3 6a * 6
159 The Black Russian E4 6b * 9
160 Pickpocket Direct
-
E3 5b * 6
161 Solitaire E2 5b 3
162 Bubbles E3 6a 5
163 Diamond Lil E3 5c 3
164 Cluedo
-
E2 5b 5
165 John's and Frog's Route
-
E2 5b 3
166 The Field of Dreams / Gwalchmai HVS 5c 3
167 Tramlines
-
E2 5b * 5
168 The Green Knight
-
HVS 5a 1

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