Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Pete Gunn on Armathwaites Full Frontal, E6 6a © OllieF
A good sandstone crag in an idyllic location by the river. Recent and ongoing extensive tree clearance has opened up and dried out all of the right end of the crag - routes should now be in condition throughout the year and warrant a lot more leading attention - get to it!
Classic's include King Fisher (VD) Glenwille Grooves (HS), Flasherman (VS), Erection (HVS), Barnacle Bill (E1), Paper Moon (E3), Exorcist (E4) and Free and Easy (E5). Some harder routes are quite bold, and the less frequented routes might need a gentle brush before leading (a towel works best).
Protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory and many of the first ascents, especially of the hardest climbs, involved abseil inspection and top rope practice prior to the lead. This should be born in mind by anyone considering an "on-sight" lead.
Please be kind to the rock when leading, its probably best not to test that sound looking nut behind that flake in a fall!
There is also plentiful steep bouldering by the river and elsewhere. The problems listed here are taken from the Eden Valley FRCC Guide (Sandy Bay). Further problems (Split Boulder) can be found on Lakesbloc.com
Many of the N.L. routes are slowly being whittled down so you may need to cross reference with the FRCC Eden Valley Guide to see what ones are left for you to do!
Idyllic riverside spot.
|Massive tree clearance is renovating the crag, the whole right end end is very open and sunny and many more routes here deserve climbing!|
Fiend - 19/Jul/17
|All bouldering problems on "sandy bay" are now from the FRCC guide to the Eden Valley. Most problems are eliminate and the new guide shows whats what more clearly, rather than the lakesbloc guide.|
petegunn - 15/Apr/14