Climbs 142
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

Pete Gunn on Armathwaites Full Frontal, E6 6a © OllieF

Crag features

A good sandstone crag in an idyllic location by the river.

Classic's include King Fisher (VD) Glenwille Grooves (HS), Flasherman (VS), Erection (HVS), Barnacle Bill (E1), Paper Moon (E3), Exorcist (E4) and Free and Easy (E5). Some harder routes are quite bold, and the less frequented routes might need a gentle brush before leading (a towel works best).

TAKE NOTE

Protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory and many of the first ascents, especially of the hardest climbs, involved abseil inspection and top rope practice prior to the lead. This should be born in mind by anyone considering an "on-sight" lead.

Please be kind to the rock when leading, its probably best not to test that sound looking nut behind that flake in a fall!

There is also plentiful steep bouldering by the river and elsewhere. The problems listed here are taken from the Eden Valley FRCC Guide (Sandy Bay). Further problems (Split Boulder) can be found on Lakesbloc.com

Many of the N.L. routes are slowly being whittled down so you may need to cross reference with the FRCC Eden Valley Guide to see what ones are left for you to do!

Approach notes

Idyllic riverside spot.

All bouldering problems on "sandy bay" are now from the FRCC guide to the Eden Valley. Most problems are eliminate and the new guide shows whats what more clearly, rather than the lakesbloc guide.
petegunn - 15/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Faces Buttress 
2F.B.S.J
-
VD 7
3Blank's Expression
-
VS 5a 3
4Boomerang
-
VS 4b *13
5Aborigine
-
HVS 4c *3
6Cook's Left Hand
-
VS 4b *3
7Cook's Crack
-
VS 4b *5
8Cook's Apron
-
VS 4c *2
9Cook's TourHVS 5a/b **6
10Blockbuster
-
HS 4a 6
11Tree AnticsMVS 2
12A Big Hand
-
S 16
 Sandy Bay 
14KingfisherVD **180
15Kaleidoscope Eyes
-
E2 5b *2
16Grey Duster
-
E3 6a **4
17The Arete
-
E3 6c **6
18Time and Motion Man
-
E1 5b **83
19The OrbitE4 6a ***2
20Blue Lugs
-
E5 5c *6
21The ExorcistE4 5c ***73
22Blast Off
-
E4 6a *5
23Glenwille Grooves Direct
-
MVS *61
24Glenwillie Grooves
-
HS 4b **292
25The Thirty-Nine Steps *VD * 
 Sandy Bay bouldering 
27Problem 1 (Green Dots) LakesBloc Problem 10
-
V3 ***33
28Problem 2 (Red Dots)
-
V4 **40
29Problem 3 (Yellow Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 9V7 **27
30Problem 4 (Blue Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 7V6 ***37
31Problem 5 (Pink Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 5V6 **14
32Problem 6 (Black Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 6
-
V5 **45
33Problem 7 (White Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 2V2 62
34Problem 8 (Blue Line) Lakesbloc Problem 1V3 **23
35Problem 9 (Red Line)V3 **24
36Problem 10 (Pump Loop, Yellow Line)V3 **30
 Harry's Groove Area 
38Harry's Arete
-
E1 5b 5
39Harry's Groove
-
HS 4b 15
40Smiling Faces
-
VS 4b 11
4139 Steps
-
VD *52
 Stinkhorn Buttress 
43Ducking Drop
-
E1 5a *2
44Herbie
-
VS 4c 3
45Meat is Murder
-
E2 5b **3
46Stinkhorn AreteE2 5b **2
47Astral WallE3 6a *4
48Stinkhorn
-
S 4
 Hetherington's Bay Problems and Routes 
50Mini Rooff5+ 1
51Indian's Revenge Startf5+ 1
52Roof Left-handf6A+ 1
53Roof Middlef6C 1
54Roof Right-handf6A 1
55Joe Soap's Startf4+ 1
56Jeff's Wallf6C 5
57Scary Aretef6B 1
58Hooked Up Startf6A 1
59Hand Traverse with overhanging loopf6A+ 1
60Petit Mal
-
VD 11
61Nosescratcher
-
HS 10
62Indian's Revenge
-
E5 6a *5
63Joe Soap's Corner
-
VS 4b 19
64Cally Crack
-
E2 5b/c *32
 Central Buttress 
66Princess Anne's New Ring
-
S 51
67Hooked UpE3 5c 5
68The Monkeyhanger
-
HVS 4c **51
69The SchnuckVS 4c *6
70Bullgine Run
-
VD **198
71Wildcat on the Swallowtail Line
-
HS **16
72Savage Simian
-
HVS 4c **13
73Savage Simian/Monkeyhanger FinishHVS 4c **1
74Janet of the Apes
-
VS 4c 3
75Victory V
-
E2 5b *2
76The Overhanging Crack Finish
-
E2 5b 3
77Zephyr
-
VD 4
78Back from BezingiE1 5b/c *3
79Ituna
-
S 51
80Douber
-
HS 4a *5
81Flasherman
-
VS 4c ***272
82Flasherman Direct
-
HVS 5a *16
83ErectionE1 5a ***159
84Viennese Oyster
-
E3 5c **3
85Soft Touch
-
E4 5c **2
86Erection Arete
-
E4 5c *3
87Full FrontalE6 6a **5
88A Bit on the SideE4 5c **2
89Nurts Way
-
HVS 5a 1
 Dome Slab Area 
91Close Encounters
-
E2 5c *3
92Mellow
-
E4 5c *1
93Talking to Trees
-
E4 5c **7
94Cat Walk
-
VS 4c **6
95Beyond the Thunder Dome
-
E5 6b *1
96Dome Slab
-
E6 6a ***6
 The Split Boulder 
98Split Boulder Problem 1f6B 5
99Split Boulder Problem 2 (Crack)f6A 10
100Split Boulder Problem 3f6B+ **9
101Split Boulder Problem 3 (without crack)f7A+ **4
102Split Boulder Problem 4f7B **3
103Split Boulder Problem 5f6B **7
 Red Buttress 
105Good Dog glen
-
VS 4c  
106Red Spider
-
E2 5b 2
107Red Monkey
-
E1 5b **3
108Red Lion
-
HVS 5a 6
109Fox and Pheasant
-
HVS 5a  
 Paper Moon Area 
111Coombs Crack
-
HVS 5a 7
112Wafer Thin
-
E5 6b **6
113Paper Moon
-
E3 5c **52
114Bad Moon Rising
-
none 6b 1
115Devil Moonnone 6b/c 4
116New Moon
-
E5 6b *3
117Lunar SeaE7 6c **1
118Moondance
-
E1 5b *2
 Final Section 
 Free and Easy 
121The Mantleshelf
-
V2 1
122Moving Pictures
-
none 6a/b  
123One Hand Clapping
-
E6 6a * 
124Free and Easy
-
E4 5c **42
125Plain Sailingnone 6b **3
126Sailing ShoesE7 6b **8
127Mr Bundy's Best Friend
-
none 6b  
128The Crescent
-
E3 5b **14
129The High Girdle
-
E6 6a/b  
 Codpiece Area/The Slab 
131Jelly Terror
-
E1 5b 55
132Rise and Shinenone 5c *1
133Crescent Arete
-
E6 6a **13
134Y Front
-
E2 5b *27
135Barnacle Bill
-
E1 5b **174
136Limpet Lil
-
E2 5c *5
137ScallopE7 6b ***16
138Lenny LimpetE7 6a/b ***26
139The Limpet Leap/Appointment with SmearsE7 6a/b **10
140Andy's SlabE4 6a **24
141Andy's Slab Variation Finish
-
none 6a 3
142Winkle PickerE4 6a *3
143Codpiece Left Hand
-
E1 5b *22
144CodpieceE3 6a **37
145PickPocket
-
E3 5c **10
146PickPocket Superdirect
-
E3 6a *1
147The Black Russian
-
none 6b  
148Pickpocket Direct
-
E2 5b *2
149Solitaire
-
E2 5b 1
150Pocket Solitaire
-
none 5c  
151Diamond Lil
-
E3 5c  
152Cluedo
-
E2 5b 3
153John's and Frog's Route
-
E2 5b  
154The Field of Dreams
-
none 5c  
155The Green Knight
-
HVS 5a 1
156Tramlines
-
E2 5b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer petegunn