Climbs 142
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 50m a.s.l
Faces SW

Pete Gunn on Armathwaites Full Frontal, E6 6a © OllieF

Crag features

A good sandstone crag in an idyllic location by the river. Recent and ongoing extensive tree clearance has opened up and dried out all of the right end of the crag - routes should now be in condition throughout the year and warrant a lot more leading attention - get to it!


Classic's include King Fisher (VD) Glenwille Grooves (HS), Flasherman (VS), Erection (HVS), Barnacle Bill (E1), Paper Moon (E3), Exorcist (E4) and Free and Easy (E5). Some harder routes are quite bold, and the less frequented routes might need a gentle brush before leading (a towel works best).
TAKE NOTE
Protection on the majority of hard routes is often absent or illusory and many of the first ascents, especially of the hardest climbs, involved abseil inspection and top rope practice prior to the lead. This should be born in mind by anyone considering an "on-sight" lead.
Please be kind to the rock when leading, its probably best not to test that sound looking nut behind that flake in a fall!
There is also plentiful steep bouldering by the river and elsewhere. The problems listed here are taken from the Eden Valley FRCC Guide (Sandy Bay). Further problems (Split Boulder) can be found on Lakesbloc.com

Many of the N.L. routes are slowly being whittled down so you may need to cross reference with the FRCC Eden Valley Guide to see what ones are left for you to do!

Approach notes

Idyllic riverside spot.

Massive tree clearance is renovating the crag, the whole right end end is very open and sunny and many more routes here deserve climbing!
Fiend - 19/Jul/17
All bouldering problems on "sandy bay" are now from the FRCC guide to the Eden Valley. Most problems are eliminate and the new guide shows whats what more clearly, rather than the lakesbloc guide.
petegunn - 15/Apr/14
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Faces Buttress
2 F.B.S.J
-
VD 7
3 Blank's Expression
-
VS 5a 3
4 Boomerang
-
VS 4b * 13
5 Aborigine
-
HVS 4c * 3
6 Cook's Left Hand
-
VS 4b * 3
7 Cook's Crack
-
VS 4b * 5
8 Cook's Apron
-
VS 4c * 2
9 Cook's Tour HVS 5a/b ** 6
10 Blockbuster
-
HS 4a 6
11 Tree Antics MVS 2
12 A Big Hand
-
S 16
  Sandy Bay
14 Kingfisher VD ** 184
15 Kaleidoscope Eyes
-
E2 5b * 2
16 Grey Duster
-
E3 6a ** 4
17 The Arete
-
E3 6c ** 5
18 Time and Motion Man
-
E1 5b ** 85
19 The Orbit E4 6a *** 2
20 Blue Lugs
-
E5 5c * 6
21 The Exorcist E4 5c *** 68
22 Blast Off
-
E4 6a * 5
23 Glenwille Grooves Direct
-
MVS * 66
24 Glenwillie Grooves
-
HS 4b ** 312
  Sandy Bay bouldering
26 Problem 1 (Green Dots) LakesBloc Problem 10
-
V3 *** 34
27 Problem 2 (Red Dots)
-
V4 ** 40
28 Problem 3 (Yellow Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 9 V7 ** 27
29 Problem 4 (Blue Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 7 V6 *** 37
30 Problem 5 (Pink Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 5 V6 ** 14
31 Problem 6 (Black Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 6
-
V5 ** 46
32 Problem 7 (White Dots) Lakesbloc Problem 2 V2 66
33 Problem 8 (Blue Line) Lakesbloc Problem 1 V3 ** 23
34 Problem 9 (Red Line) V3 ** 24
35 Problem 10 (Pump Loop, Yellow Line) V3 ** 31
  Harry's Groove Area
37 Harry's Arete
-
E1 5b 5
38 Harry's Groove
-
HS 4b 15
39 Smiling Faces
-
VS 4b 14
40 The Thirty-Nine Steps VD * 53
  Stinkhorn Buttress
42 Ducking Drop
-
E1 5a * 2
43 Herbie
-
VS 4c 3
44 Meat is Murder
-
E2 5b ** 3
45 Stinkhorn Arete E2 5b ** 2
46 Astral Wall E3 6a * 4
47 Stinkhorn
-
S 4
  Hetherington's Bay Problems and Routes
49 Mini Roof f5+ 1
50 Indian's Revenge Start f5+ 1
51 Roof Left-hand f6A+ 1
52 Roof Middle f6C 1
53 Roof Right-hand f6A 1
54 Joe Soap's Start f4+ 1
55 Jeff's Wall f6C 5
56 Scary Arete f6B 1
57 Hooked Up Start f6A 1
58 Hand Traverse with overhanging loop f6A+ 1
59 Petit Mal
-
VD 12
60 Nosescratcher
-
HS 10
61 Indian's Revenge
-
E5 6a * 5
62 Joe Soap's Corner
-
VS 4b 23
63 Cally Crack
-
E2 5b/c ** 33
  Central Buttress
65 Princess Anne's New Ring
-
S 53
66 Hooked Up E3 5c 5
67 The Monkeyhanger
-
HVS 4c ** 53
68 The Schnuck VS 4c * 7
69 Bullgine Run
-
VD ** 202
70 Wildcat on the Swallowtail Line
-
HS ** 15
71 Savage Simian
-
HVS 4c ** 12
72 Savage Simian/Monkeyhanger Finish HVS 4c ** 1
73 Janet of the Apes
-
VS 4c 3
74 Victory V
-
E2 5b * 3
75 The Overhanging Crack Finish
-
E2 5b 3
76 Zephyr
-
VD 5
77 Back from Bezingi E1 5b/c * 3
78 Ituna
-
S 56
79 Douber
-
HS 4a * 5
80 Flasherman
-
VS 4c *** 290
81 Flasherman Direct
-
HVS 5a * 17
82 Erection E1 5a *** 157
83 Viennese Oyster
-
E3 5c ** 3
84 Soft Touch
-
E4 5c ** 2
85 Erection Arete
-
E4 5c * 3
86 Full Frontal E6 6a ** 5
87 A Bit on the Side E4 5c ** 2
88 Nurts Way
-
HVS 5a 1
  Dome Slab Area
90 Close Encounters
-
E2 5c * 3
91 Mellow
-
E4 5c * 1
92 Talking to Trees
-
E4 5c ** 7
93 Cat Walk
-
VS 4c ** 6
94 Beyond the Thunder Dome
-
E5 6b * 1
95 Dome Slab
-
E6 6a *** 6
  The Split Boulder
97 Split Boulder Problem 1 f6B 6
98 Split Boulder Problem 2 (Crack) f6A 11
99 Split Boulder Problem 3 f6B+ ** 10
100 Split Boulder Problem 3 (without crack) f7A+ ** 4
101 Split Boulder Problem 4 f7B+ ** 3
102 Split Boulder Problem 5 f6B ** 7
  Red Buttress
104 Good Dog glen
-
VS 4c  
105 Red Spider
-
E2 5b 2
106 Red Monkey
-
E1 5b ** 3
107 Red Lion
-
HVS 5a 6
108 Fox and Pheasant
-
HVS 5a  
  Paper Moon Area
110 Coombs Crack
-
HVS 5a 7
111 Wafer Thin
-
E5 6b ** 6
112 Paper Moon
-
E3 5c ** 56
113 Bad Moon Rising
-
none 6b 1
114 Devil Moon none 6b/c 4
115 New Moon
-
E5 6b * 3
116 Lunar Sea E7 6c ** 1
117 Moondance
-
E1 5b * 2
  Final Section
  Free and Easy
120 The Mantleshelf
-
V2 1
121 Moving Pictures
-
none 6a/b  
122 One Hand Clapping
-
E6 6a *  
123 Free and Easy
-
E4 5c ** 49
124 Plain Sailing none 6b ** 3
125 Sailing Shoes E7 6b ** 11
126 Mr Bundy's Best Friend
-
none 6b  
127 The Crescent
-
E3 5b ** 14
128 The High Girdle
-
E6 6a/b  
  Codpiece Area/The Slab
130 Jelly Terror
-
E1 5b * 58
131 Rise and Shine none 5c * 1
132 Crescent Arete
-
E6 6a ** 14
133 Y Front
-
E2 5b * 27
134 Barnacle Bill
-
E1 5b ** 187
135 Limpet Lil
-
E2 5c * 5
136 Scallop E7 6b *** 13
137 Lenny Limpet E7 6a/b *** 27
138 The Limpet Leap E7 6a/b ** 11
139 Andy's Slab E4 6a ** 28
140 Andy's Slab Variation Finish
-
none 6a 3
141 Winkle Picker E4 6a * 3
142 Codpiece Left Hand
-
E1 5b * 30
143 Codpiece E3 6a ** 40
144 PickPocket E3 5c ** 12
145 PickPocket Superdirect
-
E3 6a * 2
146 The Black Russian E4 6b * 4
147 Pickpocket Direct
-
E3 5b * 3
148 Solitaire
-
E2 5b 2
149 Bubbles none 6a 1
150 Diamond Lil E3 5c 1
151 Cluedo
-
E2 5b 3
152 John's and Frog's Route
-
E2 5b  
153 The Field of Dreams
-
none 5c  
154 The Green Knight
-
HVS 5a 1
155 Tramlines
-
E2 5b 2

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