Climbs 37
Rocktype Pillow lava
Altitude 15m a.s.l
Faces N

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Crag y Aderyn © Dean Scott

Crag features

Multi-pitch routes in a superb location next to the road in a secluded valley, 7 miles inland from Tywyn.

The main addition to the face is a new E5 just right of the Diagonal to the ledge and a new E6/7 which continues direct above the ledge just left of Pink Panther.

Restricted Access

A roadside trad climbing venue with some quite adventurous routes, but its convenient roadside location makes a very useful venue for mid-Wales climbers. The crag is divided into three distinct buttresses - Eastern Face, Central Buttress and the Bastion.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The Eastern Face only is restricted due to nesting choughs, peregrines and cormorants. The crag is also located in a Special Protection Area for its avian assemblage. Climbers are also asked to avoid climbing here near to dusk as it's an important roosting site for choughs.

The routes on the Eastern Face are heavily vegetated and contain birds for most of the year and is probably best avoided altogether! Restrction here is from March 1st until July 31st inclusive.

Central Buttress - No restriction for 2018 

The main face - The Bastion is unaffected by the seasonal restriction.

Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Daisy Belle E1 5b ** 26
2 Bird Cage
-
HS 16
3 The Buttress
-
VD 58
4 The Diamond E3 5c ** 5
5 Pedestal Route
-
S 8
6 The Diagonal S 29
7 Lunar Moves
-
HVS 5a 5
8 North Face Girdle
-
HVS 5b 1
9 The Beak
-
VS 4b 4
10 Giblet
-
E1 5b 6
11 Spike Wall
-
HVS 4c 7
12 Koh-i-noor E3 5c 4
13 Diamond Eliminate
-
E4 5c 10
Climb name Grade
14 Pink Panther
-
E3 5c 4
15 Chouca Rib VD 2
16 The Diamond Eliminate E4 5c 1
17 Goat Walk
-
M 3
18 The Bolero
-
HVS 5a 30
19 The Gizzard
-
HS * 17
20 Little Tommy Pickles
-
E2 5b 11
21 Roger Rabbit
-
VS 4c 26
22 St Benet's Rd
-
VD 32
23 White Streak Rib
-
VS 4b 25
24 Chucky Vinster
-
VD 30
25 Ageneration VD 32
26 Siesta S 4a 5
Climb name Grade
27 The Jug
-
S * 15
28 Choucha Rib (Bird Rock)
-
M  
29 Barking at the Moon E1 5b ** 1
30 The Howling E2 5c 1
31 Day of the Tripheads E2 5c 1
32 Picket Line
-
HS 4b 3
33 Curly Fringe Frown
-
VS 5a 2
34 The Hunger
-
E7 6b *** 1
35 Gorilla's Armpit HVS 5a * 1
36 Lion Bastard *
-
VS 5a 12
37 Just for Dean (AMC) * VS 4b 7
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer tat