UKC

Climbs 39
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

Half way up the crack. © peteblair

Crag features

Head End Quarry forms one of a series of small limestone quarries found in the Carboniferous Limestone which forms a ridge around the northern edge of the English Lake District. Suitable for novices and as an alternative to the cafe when it's raining too hard down Borrowdale.

The quarry has a south facing aspect and is about 30 feet high and 140 feet long. It is relatively quick to dry, views from the top are extensive - North across the Solway plain (and Firth) to Scotland, and South to the back a Skiddaw fells (watch for the sunset behind Binsey - it can be truly magnificent).

Erosion is becoming a problem at the top of the quarry so avoid setting top ropes which will cause any more erosion - get the belay krab OVER THE EDGE. Iron stakes give belays at the top of the quarry.

The quarry is popular with groups and can be crowded at times.
Nearest facilities are in Ireby (two pubs one containing the village shop and post office), closest phone box is 300 yards down the hill to Sandale and take the first right.

 

Approach notes

Car parking is available along the road by the quarry in a few lay-bys. Space for around 5 cars. The track running into the quarry is now blocked but there is space available to park.

Access Advice

It should also be noted that the whole area has been designated a "Country Wildlife Site" with numerous flora and fauna species, some of which are quite rare.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  West End Wall
2 Novices' Route
-
VD 136
3 Catlands Wall
-
MVS 4c * 89
4 West End Groove
-
VD * 222
5 West End Direct
-
S * 140
6 Dodgy Neck
-
VS 4c 78
7 Diogenes
-
S 4b 125
8 Controlled Gurning
-
VS 5a 54
9 Headend Chimney
-
MS 147
  Suicide Wall
11 Kamikaze HVS 5a * 80
12 Nippo Crack
-
VS 4c * 109
13 Letter-Box Direct
-
MVS 4b * 131
14 Divine Wind
-
VS 4c * 24
15 Letter-Box
-
MVS 4b ** 133
16 Bird's Nest Direct
-
D * 166
Climb name Grade
  Summit Face
18 Bilberry
-
VD 104
19 Bloodhound E1 5b ** 79
20 Crusthound
-
HVS 5b * 147
21 Soap Gut
-
S 85
22 Snail Wall
-
S 4a 104
23 Fossil Arete HS 4a * 43
24 Devil's Kneecap
-
S 4a * 108
25 Mollusc MVS 4c 16
  Crystal Wall
27 Blah
-
S 4b 115
28 Crystal Cruise VS 4c * 99
29 Crystal Wall Direct MS 4a ** 259
30 Dids
-
VS 5a * 53
31 W.A.C
-
VS 5a ** 67
32 The Butcher's Dog
-
HVS 5a * 74
Climb name Grade
  Terrace Wall
34 Nut Smasher Crack
-
VD * 125
35 Terrace Stairway M * 126
36 Terraza S 4b 59
37 Piggy Malone
-
HS 85
38 Bobtail D * 79
  Traverses / Girdles
40 Heads or Tails V1 35
41 Chilblains HS 4b * 6
  Far Bouldering Wall
43 GT ArĂȘte V2 ** 2
44 GT ArĂȘte SS V2 *** 2
45 Sam's Wall L-H f6A 1
46 Sam's Wall R-H f6A 1

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer petegunn