Climbs 131
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 98m a.s.l
Faces N

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Dominic Green climbing Guillotine (HVS) at Willersley in the rain. © Alan James

Crag features

A good traditional crag with routes up to 40m long (some two pitches). With the exception of the 'Fowleresque' middle section the rock is sound if a little veggie near the top. Stays dry in the rain for some time, but greasy early in the year.! Lots of worthwhile climbs in the VS to E3 range. Classics include Cucumber Groove, Garrotter(both VS 4c), Pothole Wall (VS 4c,5a), Sycamore Flake (VS 4c,4c), Lone Tree Groove (HVS 5a,4b) and Gangue Grooves (HVS 5b). The route of the crag is Lime Street Direct (E1 5c difficult start only, 4c). The best of the few sport routes is Whatta Riot f7b. Low level traverse is fun bouldering.

Approach notes

From Cromford on the A6 turn right for Crich on the B5053. Parking available on the rihgt after passing the canal/mill complex (SK 301572). Cross the road to gain access via a concessionary path (2 min).

Restricted Access

The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
We've climbed there a few times over the summer with no problems, and quite a few others there too. However we were asked to leave yesterday (Sunday 9th Oct, 2006) by a chap from Cromford Mill (who own the rock with the Arkwright Soc. not Willersley Castle). We think that perhaps climbing is tolerated, but if you are 'reported' (by observant walkers i think in this case) they have to send someone over. Might be wrong. There was no one else climbing which is surprising so maybe they've toughened up?
Alys - 09/Oct/06
went there last night couldn't see any signs and loads of people there climbing. 7/06/06
robin richmond - 08/Jun/06
brilliant crag, don't let the sighns put you off, I have been climibing there a number of times and have not been asked to leave.
Blinder - 17/Mar/05
Went there a couple of weekends ago and no one climbing so assumed access was banned. No sign of recent traffic either.
Duncan Tunstall - 13/Dec/04
Willersley is dream crag for the VS man. Guts Ache Groove is a must along with the other routes mentioned in the revue. Great corner is often dry when all around is wet. But do not venture into the upper garden area at any time of year !
Marcus Tierney - 11/Nov/04
Climbing is not appreciated by the people who own the land, from the Hall opposite they can see the top of the routes. The BMC guidelines are to keep a low profile and not swear. As for the climbing is dangerous signs .... well it is isn't it.
MJS - 05/May/04
I saw there signs as well. Question to rockfax, can you still climb there ?
jon - 04/May/04
There are several signs attached to trees stating that no climbing is to take place on this crag due to safety reasons (as at 20th July 2003). What is the BMC line?
Armchair - 21/Jul/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Lime Street Area
2 Silent Cloud E3 6a  
3 Gripper E1 6a 25
4 Grasper HVS 5b * 56
5 Great Corner VS 4c * 209
6 Close Comfort HVS 5a 12
7 Hangover E3 6b 2
8 Zombie E2 5b ** 108
9 Mighty Like a Rose E5 6a 4
10 Growl Tiger's Last Stand E2 5c ** 155
11 Haste, Not Tomato Paste E5 6a 9
12 God E1 5b ** 144
13 Sun Chariot E7 6b ** 1
14 Crown of Thorns E4 6a * 5
15 Lime Street Super Direct E2 6a 19
16 Lime Street Direct E1 5c *** 287
17 Lone Tree Edge E1 5b * 27
18 Lone Tree Groove HVS 5a ** 202
19 Immaculate Deception
-
E2 6a 6
20 Sycamore Flake Direct HVS 5b * 18
21 Tommy Gun E3 5c 1
22 Londons Burning E5 6a * 3
23 Sycamore Flake VS 4c * 86
24 White Riot/Whatta E5 6b ** 7
25 Surplomb VS 4c * 25
26 Sparkle in the Rain E5 6a 2
27 Jericho Wall VS 4c 17
28 Babylon HVS 5b ** 51
29 Sumerian's Wall HVS 5b 3
30 False Idol HVS 5b 2
31 Lamplighter gully VS 4c 3
32 Aurora Borealis E2 5c * 1
33 Gethsemane Grooves
-
VS 4c 18
  Pot Hole Wall Area
35 Last Testament E3 5c ** 43
36 Wind of Change E2 5c * 15
37 Guts Ache Groove VS 4c ** 323
38 Guillotine HVS 5a * 69
39 Chopping Block E2 5c * 3
40 Garrotter VS 4c ** 416
41 Halo Left-hand HVS 5b 13
42 Halo Right-hand HVS 5b 3
43 Bagatelle HVS 5a * 14
44 Tramp E4 6b * 1
45 Pleasure Dome E3 5c 2
Climb name Grade
46 Pleasure Dome Direct E2 5c ** 83
47 Send No Flowers E4 6a 1
48 Excavator HVS 4c * 44
49 Pothole Wall VS 5a *** 372
50 Gangue Grooves HVS 5b *** 297
51 Euromess E1 5b 17
52 Overhanging Wall HVS 5a * 64
  Boomerang Area
54 Pulsator E3 5c 2
55 P.T.O. E2 5c ** 82
56 In the Beginning E5 6a * 2
57 Diseased Meat E4 6a * 3
58 Trendy Vicar E6 6b * 1
59 Topminnow E5 6b  
60 The Fossarian E6 6b *** 1
61 Blessed are the Weak 7a+ ** 71
62 Mine is the Kingdom E5 6a * 7
63 The Power And The Glory 7c+ ** 2
64 Hallowed be My Name 7c ** 14
65 Boomerang E1 5c * 75
66 Eurospeed
-
E3 6a 2
67 Running Blind E4 6a  
68 Like No Two Marrows E4 6a 1
69 Cucumber Crack HVS 5a 42
70 Cucumber Groove VS 4c ** 213
71 Cucumber Variant VS 4c * 39
72 Sisyphus E2 5c * 23
73 Adamant HVS 5a * 53
74 Constable Crack E1 5b 7
75 White Wall Corner HVS 5a * 70
76 Beyond Recall HVS 5a 10
77 Stranglers in the Night VS 4c 9
78 Roadside corner
-
VD 7
  Bouldering
80 Cold Skin f6B+ 2
81 Victus f6C 1
82 When Pete met John f5 4
83 Here’s to Uncle John f6A 5
84 Cosmic Longjohns f6A 6
85 Stick em with the Pointy End f6A * 6
86 Strapashintomy f6B 8
87 Gripper low start f6A+ 9
88 Banana Clyde f5+ * 7
89 Boooooom f5 * 12
90 Boooooom- sit start left eliminate f6A * 5

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