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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 10
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)

Faces SW

View Stats

Bolny © MathewWright1998

Crag features

A small quarry where sandstone was mined to make the local convent. It comprises of a square cut, U-shaped cliff of sandy, soft sand stone approx. 30 feet high. It is by no means a desirable place to climb, but a definite maybe for some. The small caves (which go back about 4 metres) are very lose and appear to be extremely unstable: I advise to stay clear until I have fully assessed them. The quarry is located in a small forest, thus, trees and branches hinder the climb, along with many midges. Again, not a great place to climb.

The climbing is mostly on pockets with the odd edges here and there. I will develop it as a boulder and highball crag as I don't believe that bolts or natural protection would be safe to rely on. Though if you fancy sticking some bolts in, go ahead. The holds are fantastic but unfortunately very sandy. I will begin to clean the crag so that it is ready for the summer. Any who wish to participate, theres first ascents and lots of them! 

For further details email [Andy Newman]       

Or  [Mathew Wright]

Approach notes

Off the A 51 drive toward Great Haywood. Approx, 50 metres from the Clifford Arms pub is a sports and social club and village hall. Opposite is a small dust track next to a school where cars can be parked. Follow the dust track up to the old stone bridge. Before going under the bridge turn left through the forest and you'll come to a stile. Enter the field and follow the path until you see the forest (this offers good views of the Shugborough grounds) and then in the corner of the forest you'll see a stile. Over that and you're there.

It's unclear is climbing is permitted, or even a good idea here. Now part of the National Trust [Dave Coleman]; details on access would be useful. [UKC ed 6/02]

It is now part of the National Trust [6/02]


No guides found for this crag

thanks for the pics, very helpful,will check it out but it looks a bit dodge, needs a good dose of vit D on the rocks
drsdave - 25/Apr/13
Visited the other week (see images) realistically this venue is unusable until better weather, cleaning & even then there won't be much.
Slipknot_olly - 13/Apr/13
Lived nearby, had a look. OK for messing about on, gets very grimy and overgrown. On the plus side you can set up a slackline accross the top between the trees.
ToffeeSockScissorBitch - 21/Feb/06
living near by so went to have a look, the only comment, useless. caves have been fenced off, now very overgrown and wouldnt recomend climbing there.
edd - 04/Sep/04
The routes here are very poor. With the only worth while things being the traverse of the Graffiti wall from arete to arete and a dyno on the right arete of the same wall both about 5b to 5c depending on condition. There is also a very dodgy aid route in the cave at the back with 2 home made bolts and a very loose flake.If any one has climbed this free ill buy them a pint.
Jim Hughes - 13/Feb/04
Access seems ok, the byelaws are posted on the back of a sign at the start of the path from the road. They prohibit lots of things, including climbing on trees, hedges, fences etc, but not rock. They also prohibit 'marking the rock' - possibly chalk. However, I'm sure the chalk wouldn't hurt, next to the graffiti! Maximum fine is (I think) 20.
Mat J - 04/Jun/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Right Rib
2 Centre arete?? V2 1
3 Bolny Arete V1 * 1
4 Bolny Arete Dark Side V2 1
Climb name Grade
  Main Face
6 Enzymatic V1 1
7 Mantle the Mono V3 1
8 The only Edge of the Quarry V3 1
9 Rock and Pop V7 * 1
Climb name Grade
10 HAC dyno V5+ ** 1
11 HAC V4 ** 1
12 HAC Direct V4 1
  Left Rib

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer MathewWright1998