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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 62
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 431m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Alderman and Dovestones Quarries Reflected © craig h

Crag features

A mini-peak, the most popular summit in the area and home to a small set of climbs, in a superb setting on good rock. The outward view across the Chew reservoirs and into the heart of the Wilderness Moors is exceptional. The flog from the parking is a bit of a lung-buster but only takes a steady 15 minutes and is well worth it. Unusually for grit, the routes in the centre of the cliff are two pitches in length, split at mid-height by a wide ledge, and this gives an extra attraction to the place and is a great spot for an easy intro to multi-pitching.

The cliff at Alderman faces southeast and so is in the sun until mid-afternoon. The rock is clean and takes little drainage and so dries rapidly after rain. On the down-side, it is very exposed to the wind.

Approach notes

There is extensive parking in the Binn Green picnic area directly below the conical hill with the cliff just below its crest. Cross the road and follow the cobbly track leftwards for a couple of hundred metres until it descends slightly and meets a wall. Cross the fence on the right carefully and follow the steep track up the side of the wall until it is possible to head rightwards to the base of the cliff at the well-trodden area under The Great Slab. More direct approaches are even steeper!

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South Peak
2 Jug Wall
-
V0- 28
3 Hollow Flake
-
V0- 22
4 Little Big Problem
-
V4 * 11
5 Big Little Problem
-
V6 2
6 Overhanging Buttress
-
HVD 4a 32
7 Scooped wall
-
D 36
8 Blunt Arête
-
VD 20
9 Flaky Crack S 4b 20
10 Flaky Wall VS 4b 16
11 Flaky Slab V0- 15
12 Mark Time
-
V1  
13 Problem Crack
-
V0- * 15
  North Peak - Lower Tier
15 First Triplet
-
HVS 5c  
16 First Triplet Right
-
S 4
17 Second Triplet
-
S 4a 4
18 Third Triplet Left
-
VD 4
19 Third Triplet
-
VS 5a  
20 Split Slabs Left
-
D 4
21 Split Slabs Right
-
D 4
22 Peardrop Buttress
-
S 4a 11
Climb name Grade
23 Peardrop Wall
-
S 4a 25
24 Peardrop Crack VD 5
25 C Route
-
VD 36
26 D Route
-
HVD 26
27 Knee Trembler E2 5c 3
28 Hearts V4 4
29 Cupid V3  
30 Broken Heart
-
V3 7
31 Render
-
V2 7
32 Pebbledash Wall
-
HS 5a 23
  North Peak - The Main Crag
34 Ditch Diggin
-
V6 1
35 Cold Embrace V2 8
36 Edgehog Flavour E2 5b * 14
37 Pigmy Wall HS 4b * 119
38 E Route S 4a 88
39 F Route S 4a 93
40 Golden Wonder E1 5b * 27
41 Crispy Crack HVS 5a * 89
42 Rib and Face VD ** 235
43 Cleft and Chimney VD * 143
44 Malc's Flaky Finish
-
E2 5c 3
Climb name Grade
45 Great Slab Arête Direct Start
-
VS 4c ** 2
46 Great Slab Arête S 4a * 176
47 Great Slab VS 4c *** 243
48 The Great Gatsby VS 4c * 25
49 Great Slab Chimney D * 183
50 Great Slab Right HVS 4c 36
51 Pebble Mill E2 5b 10
52 At One S 4a 6
53 Little Slab Arête D 10
54 Little Slab
-
VD 7
55 Second Slab Arête
-
VS 4c 4
56 Second Slab
-
S 4b 7
57 Third Slab VD 6
58 Third Slab Face VS 5a 10
59 Third Slab Crack D 3
60 Alderperson
-
VS 4c 5
61 Das Rathaus
-
HVS 4c  
62 Pinnacle Arête
-
S 4a 8
  Scrambles
64 Scramble Option 1 3 ** 8
65 Scramble Option 2 3 * 5
66 Scramble Option 3 2 * 5

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