UKC

Climbs 63
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 431m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Alderman and Dovestones Quarries Reflected © craig h

Crag features

A mini-peak, the most popular summit in the area and home to a small set of climbs, in a superb setting on good rock. The outward view across the Chew reservoirs and into the heart of the Wilderness Moors is exceptional. The flog from the parking is a bit of a lung-buster but only takes a steady 15 minutes and is well worth it. Unusually for grit, the routes in the centre of the cliff are two pitches in length, split at mid-height by a wide ledge, and this gives an extra attraction to the place and is a great spot for an easy intro to multi-pitching.

The cliff at Alderman faces southeast and so is in the sun until mid-afternoon. The rock is clean and takes little drainage and so dries rapidly after rain. On the down-side, it is very exposed to the wind.

Approach notes

There is extensive parking in the Binn Green picnic area directly below the conical hill with the cliff just below its crest. Cross the road and follow the cobbly track leftwards for a couple of hundred metres until it descends slightly and meets a wall. Cross the fence on the right carefully and follow the steep track up the side of the wall until it is possible to head rightwards to the base of the cliff at the well-trodden area under The Great Slab. More direct approaches are even steeper!

 

( Binn Green Picnic Area CP currently closed 26/03/23)

No Access Issues

'Private Land' signs have appeared at some points along the boundary with the A635 road which has led to some confusion over whether access is permitted or not. This land is designated as Open Access and the public have a full legal right to access is for recreation on foot, including climbing. Please keep dogs on a lead to help avoid future difficulties.

 

 

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Climbs at this crag

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