UKC

Climbs 20
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 55m a.s.l
Faces all

Steve Williams at the Agglestone © steve taylor

Crag features

The Agglestone is something of a mystery. How does a solitary giant sandstone boulder find itself in the middle of a heathland overlooking Poole Harbour? 

The Agglestone has long been a venue for locals though in an effort to reduce wear and tear only scant details have previously been published. Continuing in this vein we have given the Agglestone a cursory mention only. The Southern Sandstone boys and girls have developed a nice set of ethics that are equally applicable to the similarly delicate Agglestone: 
> No chipping, no brushing - use a rag instead.
> Use minimal chalk and clean away any excess.
> Clean the sand from your shoes before climbing and don't use pof.
> Don't drop litter.

The nature of the rock lends itself to eliminate problems and we have only described the most obvious features. The rock is rough, the bouldering is powerful and the landings excellent. So go there, respect the Aggle, be inventive and leave no trace.

Approach notes

From Corfe Castle - Leave the A351 just before Corfe Castle and take the B3351 under the railway bridge. Follow the B3351 to a 4-5 car lay-by 400m past the entrance to the Isle of Purbeck Golf Club.

From Poole (Ferry) - Follow the road from the ferry terminus through Studland village. Follow the road to a 4-5 car lay-by 900m past a turning to Swanage.

From the lay-by, go through a gate and follow the track northeast across the golf course. Pick up a bridleway signposted to the Agglestone. The bridleway is followed along the edge of the golf course to gates. Continue along the bridleway and the Agglestone will soon be in view.

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Dorset Bouldering

Dorset has emerged as a major bouldering area in recent years thanks to the hard work of a bunch of diligent locals who have combed the coastline seeking out every block, problem and traverse. In addition to the well known areas of the Cuttings, the Boulderfield and the Neddyfields, the book has extensive information on the West Coast of Portland, many more areas on the East Coast, plus Swanage and Lulworth. It describes over 1500 boulder problems on over 350 pages.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Swanage and Portland (1995)
Hi. Here is a correction for new boulders as moderator is not available they still appears wrong - Low Traverza is on east face - Breaking Sandstone is on east face - Stand Up is on north east face
Spirit - 15/May/14
Visited this for the first time today. Beautiful location. Lovely boulder. Well worth a look. I'll certainly be going back.
Swampy167 - 12/Mar/14
At Agglestone yesterday.. Lovely weather, rock nice & dry, great fun many different sorts of problems from slab to overhang.. We accessed it from Agglestone Road.
Mike Lee - 11/Oct/13
I went on a humid september morning and got eaten alive by gnats! Interesting venue.
TommityP - 04/Sep/13
very easy to get to as signposted everywhere. lots of problems especially for the complete novice. had loads of fun
skipith - 09/Jul/12
Was here last week (very sunny). Bit hard to find parking/the right 'walk in' and in the end parked at Studland and walked up from the back of the hotel which took about 30mins (they'll give you a map if you are unsure). Partly boggy ground on the approach and might be a problem following a deluge. Boulder itself is really soft and a large chunk has fallen recently (during the winter perhaps). Climbs are pretty good and the slab-side is easy enough to walk off the boulder. Well worth a look if you get bored on the Studland beach.
Unclejona - 08/Jun/11
went there today lots of good problems, signed posted from the road if you can't find it. good fun
danimal - 12/Mar/11
I went to bournemouht this past bank holiday (End of August) and it wasnt there? am i blind or something?
claudman - 31/Aug/10
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Northwest Arête
2 The Flake f5+ ** 23
3 Northwest Arête, Low f5 * 9
4 Northwest Arête f5 ** 24
5 Northwest Direct f5+ * 6
  Eliminates Face
7 Groove f6A ** 6
8 Non-Eliminate Face f6B ** 8
Climb name Grade
9 Shelf Climb f5 * 15
  Other Unknown Problems
11 Low Traverza V4 19
12 Triceratops V2 26
13 Stegasaurus V0 35
14 Breaking Sandstone V3 8
15 StandUp V2 19
16 StandUp Direct V2 8
Climb name Grade
17 North Face Arête V2 ** 27
18 Left Foot Bottom Lip V2 ** 70
19 Eagle Stone V4 * 16
20 Dog on a Stick V4 * 11
21 Spinosaurus V1 9
22 Dorset Maid * V0 2
23 Hefty Dorset Maid * V1 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.
Volunteer to moderate The Agglestone
We rely on volunteers to moderate their local crags. You would check updates and approve climbs added to the database. It's a very easy job, and all you need is a guidebook and an hour or two each month. [ read more ]