Climbs 35
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 136m a.s.l
Faces NW

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The steep start of Certain Surprise at Split Rock Quarry © Mark Glaister

Crag features

Good concentration of excellent routes, both trad and (hard) sport, generally requiring a disproportionate amount of power.

Approach notes

Split Rock Quarry lies close to the cathedral town of Wells which is best reached from the M5 by exiting at junction 22 and following the A38 and A371, first to Cheddar and then on to Wells. On entering Wells, pick up signs for the A39 to Bristol and follow the road out of the town and turn left onto Milton Lane - a minor road. Follow Milton Lane and cross Ash Lane. A little further up the road, pass Reservoir Lane on the right, continue past some blocks on the left and park on the verges next to a locked, gated track and path on the left. Take care not to block the road. Walk along the path to the edge of the woods and, either follow a path just inside the woods along its edge to the cliff, or a path through the field next to the woods to the same point (5 minutes).

 

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Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs - Volume 1 (2012)
Avon and Cheddar (2004)

Out of print:
Still got astonishingly sh1t non-directions written by a fcking imbecile. Wish I'd checked my previous comment before driving around aimlessly failing to make reality match the nonsense. Would the crag moderator please update the approach with the truth, ta!
Fiend - 03/Sep/16
Currently a Jackdaw nesting in the crack of Certain Surprise. Wasn't too happy to see us on nearby routes.
whenry - 18/May/15
Smart little spot, great, dynamic and generally well protected climbing on the E3's.
Jon_Warner - 15/Apr/09
Sam's comment is right. Follow Milton Lane rightwards (not left as described in new guide) to an obvious gate / junction where the tarmaced quarry track goes left. Park without blocking anything and an easy stroll leads along the track(s) to the quarry. P.S. Video Kills is amenable and awesome and worth popping in for.
Fiend - 01/Oct/07
its probably best to approach from wells up milton lane, which comes off ash lane. either walk or drive, parking on the left at the top of the lane, and walk straight ahead along footpath through woods, or bear left on new road to more parking as detailed above, and approach up path through woods.ps. currently a bird nesting (with hatched chicks) in the crack of certain suprise.
Sam - 01/Jun/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Tyro's Slab D 6
2 Demolition Man HVS 5a 18
3 Dune E5 6b * 7
4 Arakis
-
E5 6b  
5 Sahara E5 6b * 8
6 A Magenta Smudge
-
E6 6c *  
7 Crimson Dynamo E6 6b ** 35
8 Rustic Wall E3 5c *** 78
9 Video Kills E3 5c *** 140
10 Crocker's Crumbs E4 6a 1
11 Red Rag to a Bull E5 6b ** 55
12 Medium Very Rare
-
E6 6b 2
Climb name Grade
13 Brazen Hussy E5 6a 15
14 Certain Surprise E3 5c *** 204
15 Corsican Days E3 5c ** 51
16 Polling Day Blues
-
E4 6b 1
17 Chain Reaction
-
7b+ ** 4
18 Fact or Fission
-
7c ** 1
19 Red Snapper and Chips
-
7c * 6
20 Smashing of Amps 7c+ *** 40
21 Smashingly Obvious E5 6b *** 3
22 Tricky Dicky E5 6a *** 44
23 Saboteurs of the Underground 7b+ 2
24 Smarty Marty
-
7b+ * 3
Climb name Grade
25 Gary's Gift
-
E2 5c 19
26 Open Invitation
-
E2 5b 8
27 End Game
-
E2 5b 17
28 Split Rock Girdle
-
E5 6b/c *** 1
  The Bay
30 Pickles Corner M 7
31 Route W 4b 5
32 Route X VS 4b 4
33 Route Y VS 4b 4
34 Route Z S 4a 3
35 Stroll in the Park 4c * 7
36 Maggie's Arete VD * 3

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