Altitude 50m a.s.l
Dammit to Hell (V3), Becca Banks © petellis
A 100m long quarried wall of magnesian limestone, up to 10m high: Main features include a square cut corner in the first bay, which includes several excellent face climbs. This is followed by an undercut prow with some testing problems. The wall then continues with numerous problems to half height/routes to the top (beware: poor exits are common - bring some belay slings). Finally, a small overhanging bay at the northern end of the crag provides a wet weather bouldering venue. No details are given in the Limestone guide but the routes are obvious. A few pegs/threads exist but mostly gear is in the pocketed upper wall (friends) and the few cracks. Rock is generally sound but a brush is required as this is not the most frequented crag in the world! [David Gluck]
Zola - start 2m right of square corner below peg at half height and go straight up (E1 5c) - crux passing the peg; friends protect above.
The Brown Spider - the big corner with poor thread at half height. Bridging starts to the thread then trending rightwards to the top (HVS 5a).
Bugged Out - the right arete of the main face, undercut start leads upto peg, then traverse righwards under the overhang to exit at the L end of this (VS 4c)
The Bard of Barking - traverse starting at bulge 3 metres right of 'the hole' and below/left of tree with sling. Up to tree passing peg then traverse right at the highest practical level, passing 2 pegs at the crux overhanging wall. Belay at pegs on arete. 2nd pitch continues round the wall and corner past 2 further pegs to finish at the furthest arete, peg belay. Scramble off. A major expedition for this crag! (VS 5b, 4c)
Sukie's Route - The flake line above the pedestal where the overhanging buttress ends. Up flake from the pedestal to worrying finish up mud slope! (HS 4a)
Green Wall - the obvious green coloured wall 3/4 along the crag from entry. Clibs direct up the wall and finishing at tree (crumbly. Peg runner. (VS 4c)
and many many more besides.... [David Gluck]
No access problems. Park in village not on Becca Lane. Up Becca Lane (opposite Arabian Horse) to woods where a path is followed to the crag - 5 minutes.
(I went there the other day and the landowner came and payed us a "nice" little visit said if we fell he would get sued and kicked us off the crag!)
|There's actually another crag in the area around here, from what I can see there are no signs around indicating you can't climb on it. When we went the rock was sodden and the landings were dire (lots of bricks and concrete thrown in) but if it's been dry for a bit and you're in the area then it could be worth a go.
To find it, head down main street towards "Parlington Lane" (it's on the map). Walk down here for roughly a mile and it's on the left hand side. We climbed largely on the left hand side of it (looking straight on) and there were a couple of fun, if disgustingly slimey at that point, routes.|
Kieran_John - 24/Jun/13
|4||Dammit to Hell||V3 **||1|
|5||Arachnid||V0 5b *||2|
|7||Full Traverse||V1 *||1|
|8||Brown Spider||HVS 5a||2|
|10||One for Cheeks||V0+ 4a||1|
|11||The Magic Tree||HVS 4c **||3|
|12||Green Staircase *||S 4a||1|