Climbs 39
Rocktype Amphibiolite & S

Faces SW

Dave Talbot on Alpharatz © henry castle

Crag features

A cliff with a big feel - multipitch climbing, mostly E-grades. The rock is Amphibiolite and Serpentine, and is generally sound.

Thirty nine routes in Total if including Mirror Wall, Chameleon Slabs and Soap Gully area.

Approach notes

Park at Predannack Wollas and follow the coast path south. Abseil or Scramble down to sea-level ledges - mixture of non-tidal and tidal but affected by swell and spray.

Access may be restricted, sometimes at short notice, due to the presence of very rare birds.

We went down to do True North on 10/7/05 to find that there has been a big rockfall and the top half of the route no longer exists. This will also have taken out the two routes to the left. Unfortunately you can't see this until you've actually got down to the bottom of the cliff!
Alison Cairns - 12/Jul/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 The Fix
-
E2 5b *  
2 Dead Reckoning
-
E2 5c ** 1
3 Beauty and the Beast
-
E5 6b *** 1
4 True North
-
HVS 5a ** 9
5 Salamander
-
E1 5b 2
6 The Serpents Tail
-
HVS 5a * 5
7 kimodo draon
-
E2 5c  
8 kimodo dragon
-
E2 5c 1
9 alpharatz
-
HVS 5a 3
10 wellkept secret
-
M 1
11 Well Kept Secret
-
HS 4b 1
12 Going Places E4 6a 1

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