Climbs 144
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

The Grasshopper Project © Kevin Moroney

Crag features

Superb climbing on clean rock in a fantastic scenic location. Some absolute classic routes especially in the VS/HVS range.

See http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Glendalough

for more details.

Descent: Main Face - Chains at top of Prelude Nightmare 60m abseil just gets you down. Alternative is cable at top of Expectancy 20m abseil + scramble. If you are bailing from Expectancy you can abseil the line of Deirdre to avoid the worst of the scramble.

East Wing - Tat at top of Aisling Arete/Celia 30m abseil back to Forest Ledge. Scramble down to top of Forest Rhapsody P2, tat for 35m abseil(30m is ok as you can scramble down rest)

Approach notes

Located about 30 miles (50km) from Dublin City Centre.

Glendalough can be reached by following the Bray by-pass (N/M11), you can also reach the M11 by taking the M50 southbound and its southward continuation as far as Kilmacanogue from where the R755 is followed through Roundwood to Laragh before taking the road westwards into the valley to the car-park just below the Upper Lake. 4 Euro to park for the day at the Upper Car Park(Note Closing Time). Alternatively take St. Kevin's Bus. Take the Miners Path for a 45 minute walk up the valley to the Rockfaces on the North side of the lake. Passed the Old Mining Ruins, to start of zigzag path upwards. Leave the main path, and scramble up the rough track to the faces. Free parking at the Visitor Centre, but a longer 1hr 10min walk in.

Glendalough is a fantastic spot for climbers of any ability. The multipitch routes on the main face are well protected and fairly easy to follow as well as being fair for the grade. The shorter single pitch routes are fantastic, especially with the abseil points at the top of the twin buttresses. On a good day you can pretty much do all of the routes on one area. The local youth hostel (Glendalough) is close by and good value for money as well as the campsite slightly further away at Roundwood. Both are very busy from May onwards and advance booking may be required. The only drawback on a still, warm day is the MIDGES!!!
Michael Smith - 13/Feb/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Girdle Traverse Of Twin Buttress
-
VS  
  Twin Buttress: West Wing: Far West Buttress
3 When gorse was a man's best friend VS 4c  
4 Felix Infernum
-
HVS 5b  
5 Running Blind
-
HVS 5b  
6 Jungle Journey
-
HS 3c,4b  
7 Eden Wall
-
HS 4b,4a  
8 Garden Of Eden
-
VS 4c,3c 7
9 Cracks On The Garden Of Eden
-
VS 4c *** 46
10 Snakebite
-
E1 5b 1
11 Adam's Apple
-
VD 3
12 Arividerci
-
VS 4b 2
13 Escapade
-
E3 6b * 1
14 Stray Dog E1 5b ** 15
  Twin Buttress: West Wing: Expectancy Slab
16 Variant
-
HS 4b 5
17 Georgia HS 4b 15
18 Lassitude VS 4c * 33
19 Expectancy
-
VD 3c *** 61
20 Adam's Rib
-
HS 4b * 25
21 Solitaire
-
HS 4b 8
  Twin Buttress: West Wing: Main Face
23 Deirdre
-
VS 4c,3c ** 34
24 Caroline
-
E4 5c **  
25 Love Never Dies
-
E1 5b  
26 Ffolly S 3c,4a, 6
27 The Nest VS 4c,4a,  
28 Caliph
-
VS 4c  
29 Quartz Gully HS 4b *** 81
30 Holly Tree Shunt VD 3c,3c 19
31 Three In One
-
VS 4a,3c, 5
32 Prelude-Spéirbhean VS 4c ** 21
33 Prelude-Nightmare VS 4c *** 109
34 Vagabond
-
E1 5b,4b, 5
35 Scimitar Crack HVS 5a ** 42
36 Fanfare VS 4c * 20
37 Spillikin-Fanfare-Spéirbhean VS 4c *** 6
38 Spillikin-Fanfare-Nightmare VS 4c *** 6
39 Spillikin Ridge
-
E3 4c,5c *** 35
40 Bathsheba
-
E5 6b *** 1
41 The Wake
-
E5 6b *** 1
42 Sarcophagus HVS 5a *** 98
43 Spillikin Arete
-
E5 6b  
44 Soothsayer
-
E5 6a **  
45 The Far Side
-
E4 6a **  
46 Left Wall Crack
-
E1 5b,5b ** 4
47 Great Corner
-
VS 4b,4b, 1
48 Aphrodite
-
VS 4b,4a, 1
49 Caol Uisce
-
S 3c,4a,  
50 Lag Mara
-
VS 4c  
  Twin Buttress: East Wing: Acorn Buttress
52 Frigg
-
VD  
53 Out On A Limb
-
HVS 5b  
54 New Beginnings
-
HVS 5b  
55 Slipstream
-
HVS 5b * 7
56 Amygdala
-
HVS 5a 1
57 Acorn Crack
-
HS 4b * 33
58 Acorn Crack Variation
-
VD 1
59 Vortex
-
VS 4c 8
60 Inferno
-
S 4a 17
61 Provo
-
VS 4c * 66
62 Facilis Descensus
-
HS 4b * 53
63 Revocare Gradum
-
S 4a 11
64 Dig For Fire
-
HVS 5b  
  East Wing - Forest Ledge
66 Autumn Leaf
-
E4 6a ** 1
67 Bruce's Corner
-
VS 4c ** 6
68 Elbow Room
-
HVS 5b  
69 Mica Wall
-
VD  
70 Jackey VS 4c ** 21
71 Celia VS 4c *** 29
72 Rock Music
-
VS 4c,4b 2
73 Aisling Arête VS 4c 25
74 Concrete Wallflower
-
E1 5b ** 22
75 Lethe VS 4c ** 26
76 Lethe Direct
-
HVS 5b * 4
  East Wing
78 Forest Rhapsody VS 4c,4a, ** 57
79 Photo Finish
-
E2 5c * 5
80 Ifreann
-
E1 4b,5a, * 1
81 Ifreann Direct HVS 5b *** 21
82 Ifreann Arete
-
E1 5b ** 3
83 Lara E1 5b 3
84 Bike No Saddle VS 5a * 4
85 Boru
-
E1 5b * 2
86 Ruth's Chimney
-
S 3c,4a, 5
87 Hogh Profile
-
E2 5c,4c **  
88 Sebastian
-
E1 4a,5b ** 2
89 Hemlock And After
-
E4 6b **  
90 Great North Road
-
E3 3c,5c, **  
91 Contrabrand
-
E3 5c **  
92 Shanghai Corner
-
E3 5c,4a ** 1
93 Rock Island Line
-
E2 4c,6a * 1
94 Dream Of Fair To Middling Women
-
E1 4c, 5b *  
95 Goulding Route
-
VS 4c, 4b  
96 Graceland
-
E4 6a ** 1
97 Setanta
-
E1 5b ** 14
  Witality Slab
99 Wim
-
M  
100 Wigour
-
D  
101 Witality
-
S  
  Upper Cliffs
103 Sculpturesque
-
HS 4b,4a  
104 Land's End
-
HS 4b  
105 Silent Movie E3 5c,5c **  
106 Lifeline
-
E4 6a, 5b *** 1
107 Deadlines
-
E4 6a  
108 Cornish Rhapsody
-
E1 5a,5b, *** 7
109 Cornellow
-
VS 3c,4a,  
110 Freebird HVS 5a,4c, ** 2
111 Blue Moon
-
E3 5a,6b **  
112 Cuchulainn Groove
-
HVS 4a,4c ** 3
113 Alien's Way
-
VS 4b,4c,  
114 FISSURE MacUALGAIRG
-
E1 5b *  
115 Little Eiger
-
VS 4c 1
116 Scramble
-
S 1
117 Home Growers
-
VS 4c,4b  
118 Xanthos
-
VS 4c  
119 High Exposure
-
HVS 5a ** 1
  Hobnail Buttress
121 Woodside
-
VS 4c 1
122 Pyramid Route
-
HS 3c,4a ** 19
123 Clinker
-
VD 2
124 Mugger
-
S 4a 2
125 Using Nomadic Types
-
HS 4b 2
126 Hobnail Chimney
-
HS 3c,4b * 16
127 Slag
-
VD 3
128 Twin Cracks
-
S 6
129 Pine Tree Cracks
-
S * 14
130 Slab And Cantilever
-
D 2
131 Gealaras
-
D  
132 Hobnail Slabs
-
HVS 5a 6
133 Hobnail Groove
-
HVS 5b 4
134 Hobnail Cracks
-
HVS 5b 4
135 Coriver Youth
-
VS 4c  
  Valley Floor Bouldering
137 Andy's Arete V5 *** 7
138 2.4 Pascal's sit-start f7B *** 3
139 The Fin Sit-start f7B *** 4
140 The Egg SS f7B *** 1
141 Chillax Left
-
f7A ** 4
142 The Cherry f7A *** 1
143 Egg Traverse f6B+ 1
144 The Nu Rails f6C 6
145 Chillax f6C 10
146 B.B.E f7A 5
147 Chuppa Chub f6C+ 2
  Winter Climbing
149 Cliff Gully II/III  
150 Cascade III  
151 Memories Of Snow IV  
152 Cold Dance IV  
153 Winter Palace IV  
154 Left-Hand Waterfall IV  
155 Right-Hand Waterfall IV  

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