Climbs 144
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

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The Grasshopper Project © Kevin Moroney

Crag features

Superb climbing on clean rock in a fantastic scenic location. Some absolute classic routes especially in the VS/HVS range.
See http://wiki.climbing.ie/index.php/Glendalough
for more details.
Descent: Main Face - Chains at top of Prelude Nightmare 60m abseil just gets you down. Alternative is cable at top of Expectancy 20m abseil + scramble. If you are bailing from Expectancy you can abseil the line of Deirdre to avoid the worst of the scramble.
East Wing - Tat at top of Aisling Arete/Celia 30m abseil back to Forest Ledge. Scramble down to top of Forest Rhapsody P2, tat for 35m abseil(30m is ok as you can scramble down rest)

Approach notes

Located about 30 miles (50km) from Dublin City Centre.
Glendalough can be reached by following the Bray by-pass (N/M11), you can also reach the M11 by taking the M50 southbound and its southward continuation as far as Kilmacanogue from where the R755 is followed through Roundwood to Laragh before taking the road westwards into the valley to the car-park just below the Upper Lake. 4 Euro to park for the day at the Upper Car Park(Note Closing Time). Alternatively take St. Kevin's Bus. Take the Miners Path for a 45 minute walk up the valley to the Rockfaces on the North side of the lake. Passed the Old Mining Ruins, to start of zigzag path upwards. Leave the main path, and scramble up the rough track to the faces. Free parking at the Visitor Centre, but a longer 1hr 10min walk in.

 

- Visitor centre parking also €4 on 10/05/19

Glendalough is a fantastic spot for climbers of any ability. The multipitch routes on the main face are well protected and fairly easy to follow as well as being fair for the grade. The shorter single pitch routes are fantastic, especially with the abseil points at the top of the twin buttresses. On a good day you can pretty much do all of the routes on one area. The local youth hostel (Glendalough) is close by and good value for money as well as the campsite slightly further away at Roundwood. Both are very busy from May onwards and advance booking may be required. The only drawback on a still, warm day is the MIDGES!!!
Michael Smith - 13/Feb/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Girdle Traverse Of Twin Buttress
-
VS  
  Twin Buttress: West Wing: Far West Buttress
3 When gorse was a man's best friend VS 4c  
4 Felix Infernum
-
HVS 5b  
5 Running Blind
-
HVS 5b  
6 Jungle Journey
-
HS 3c,4b  
7 Eden Wall
-
HS 4b,4a  
8 Garden Of Eden
-
VS 4c,3c 9
9 Cracks On The Garden Of Eden
-
VS 4c *** 56
10 Snakebite
-
E1 5b 2
11 Adam's Apple
-
VD 3
12 Arividerci
-
VS 4b 2
13 Escapade
-
E3 6b * 1
14 Stray Dog E1 5b ** 22
  Twin Buttress: West Wing: Expectancy Slab
16 Variant
-
HS 4b 8
17 Georgia HS 4b 19
18 Lassitude VS 4c * 44
19 Expectancy
-
VD 3c *** 74
20 Adam's Rib
-
HS 4b * 28
21 Solitaire
-
HS 4b 11
  Twin Buttress: West Wing: Main Face
23 Deirdre
-
VS 4c,3c ** 43
24 Caroline
-
E4 5c **  
25 Love Never Dies
-
E1 5b  
26 Ffolly S 3c,4a, 6
27 The Nest VS 4c,4a, 2
28 Caliph
-
VS 4c  
29 Quartz Gully HS 4b *** 102
30 Holly Tree Shunt VD 3c,3c 24
31 Three In One
-
VS 4a,3c, 5
32 Prelude-Spéirbhean VS 4c ** 22
33 Prelude-Nightmare VS 4c *** 146
34 Vagabond
-
E1 5b,4b, 5
35 Scimitar Crack HVS 5a ** 53
36 Fanfare VS 4c * 21
37 Spillikin-Fanfare-Spéirbhean VS 4c *** 13
38 Spillikin-Fanfare-Nightmare VS 4c *** 5
39 Spillikin Ridge
-
E3 4c,5c *** 48
40 Bathsheba
-
E5 6b *** 5
41 The Wake
-
E5 6b *** 1
42 Sarcophagus HVS 5a *** 118
43 Spillikin Arete
-
E5 6b  
44 Soothsayer
-
E5 6a **  
45 The Far Side
-
E4 6a **  
46 Left Wall Crack
-
E1 5b,5b ** 8
47 Great Corner
-
VS 4b,4b, 1
48 Aphrodite
-
VS 4b,4a, 1
Climb name Grade
49 Caol Uisce
-
S 3c,4a,  
50 Lag Mara
-
VS 4c  
  Twin Buttress: East Wing: Acorn Buttress
52 Frigg
-
VD 1
53 Out On A Limb
-
HVS 5b  
54 New Beginnings
-
HVS 5b  
55 Slipstream
-
HVS 5b * 8
56 Amygdala
-
HVS 5a 1
57 Acorn Crack
-
HS 4b * 37
58 Acorn Crack Variation
-
VD 1
59 Vortex
-
VS 4c 9
60 Inferno
-
S 4a 20
61 Provo
-
VS 4c * 78
62 Facilis Descensus
-
HS 4b * 60
63 Revocare Gradum
-
S 4a 11
64 Dig For Fire
-
HVS 5b  
  East Wing - Forest Ledge
66 Autumn Leaf
-
E4 6a ** 1
67 Bruce's Corner
-
VS 4c ** 8
68 Elbow Room
-
HVS 5b 1
69 Mica Wall
-
VD  
70 Jackey VS 4c ** 30
71 Celia VS 4c *** 34
72 Rock Music
-
VS 4c,4b 2
73 Aisling Arête VS 4c 27
74 Concrete Wallflower
-
E1 5b ** 31
75 Lethe VS 4c ** 32
76 Lethe Direct
-
HVS 5b * 3
  East Wing
78 Forest Rhapsody VS 4c,4a, ** 78
79 Photo Finish
-
E2 5c * 3
80 Ifreann
-
E1 4b,5a, * 1
81 Ifreann Direct HVS 5b *** 29
82 Ifreann Arete
-
E1 5b ** 3
83 Lara E1 5b 3
84 Bike No Saddle VS 5a * 4
85 Boru
-
E1 5b * 2
86 Ruth's Chimney
-
S 3c,4a, 5
87 Hogh Profile
-
E2 5c,4c **  
88 Sebastian
-
E1 4a,5b ** 2
89 Hemlock And After
-
E4 6b **  
90 Great North Road
-
E3 3c,5c, ** 1
91 Contrabrand
-
E3 5c **  
92 Shanghai Corner
-
E3 5c,4a ** 2
93 Rock Island Line
-
E2 4c,6a * 1
94 Dream Of Fair To Middling Women
-
E1 4c, 5b *  
95 Goulding Route
-
VS 4c, 4b  
96 Graceland
-
E4 6a ** 6
Climb name Grade
97 Setanta
-
E1 5b ** 24
98 Setanta Direct Finish * E2 5c ** 2
  Witality Slab
100 Wim
-
M  
101 Wigour
-
D  
102 Witality
-
S  
  Upper Cliffs
104 Sculpturesque
-
HS 4b,4a  
105 Land's End
-
HS 4b 1
106 Silent Movie E3 5c,5c **  
107 Lifeline
-
E4 6a, 5b *** 1
108 Deadlines
-
E4 6a  
109 Cornish Rhapsody
-
E1 5a,5b, *** 10
110 Cornellow
-
VS 3c,4a,  
111 Freebird HVS 5a,4c, ** 4
112 Blue Moon
-
E3 5a,6b **  
113 Cuchulainn Groove
-
HVS 4a,4c ** 5
114 Alien's Way
-
VS 4b,4c,  
115 FISSURE MacUALGAIRG
-
E1 5b *  
116 Little Eiger
-
VS 4c 1
117 Scramble
-
S 1
118 Home Growers
-
VS 4c,4b  
119 Xanthos
-
VS 4c  
120 High Exposure
-
HVS 5a ** 1
  Hobnail Buttress
122 Woodside
-
VS 4c 1
123 Pyramid Route
-
HS 3c,4a ** 20
124 Clinker
-
VD 2
125 Mugger
-
S 4a 2
126 Using Nomadic Types
-
HS 4b 2
127 Hobnail Chimney
-
HS 3c,4b * 17
128 Slag
-
VD 2
129 Twin Cracks
-
S 7
130 Pine Tree Cracks
-
S * 15
131 Slab And Cantilever
-
D 2
132 Gealaras
-
D  
133 Hobnail Slabs
-
HVS 5a 6
134 Hobnail Groove
-
HVS 5b 4
135 Hobnail Cracks
-
HVS 5b 4
136 Coriver Youth
-
VS 4c  
  Winter Climbing
138 Cliff Gully II/III  
139 Cascade III  
140 Memories Of Snow IV  
141 Cold Dance IV  
142 Winter Palace IV  
143 Left-Hand Waterfall IV  
144 Right-Hand Waterfall IV  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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