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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 245
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces N

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Russell on the Elephant's Bum © StuM

Crag features

Wimberry is the best of the fine set of cliffs in the Chew Valley, the Cinderella of Peak grit, an unsung gem of a crag with a fantastic collection of routes on an impressive series of buttresses in a dramatic setting, and with superb outward views. The downside (there has to be one) is that the crag faces north and the approach is a bit of a flog. Choose your conditions carefully though and you will be rewarded; here is a superb set of arduous cracks and osme thrilling face climbs. The cracks in particular have always had a reputation for being sternly graded. The face climbs include some of the best and hardest in the peak, though they see a lot less attention than their smaller brethren on Burbage South. It has been said that if the cliff faced south, it would be regarded as one of the best gritstone cliffs in the country.

The collection of boulders below the crag is the Chew Valley's best bouldering venue with everything needed for a good session. Unlike virtually every other bouldering crag in the Chew area, you don't need to slog it up a big hill to get to the bouldering, although there is a bit of hill slogging between the boulders. The grit is solid with some very sloping holds. Most of the problems are a perfect height and generally the landings are fine. The rock is very coarse in places and can have spectacular pebbles sticking out.

Approach notes

There is extensive parking (Pay and Display) below the huge dam that holds back the Dovestone Reservoir. A metalled road leads past the sailing club boathouse then at the bridge across Chew Brook, take the path rightwards into the trees. This passes through the bouldering area and then starts a steady flog up the side of the stream to reach the left-hand side of the cliff in about 30 mins from the car. The final ascent is a good test of stamina.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Everything besides "Dark Matter" needs a good clean. Pretty damp and wet today too.
John_Beesley - 01/Jan/19
Brilliant crag. Desperately needs so more traffic (or a good clean). Great climbs but felt spicy with so much lichen and dirt on the rock.
CarlaJG - 01/May/17
Note to self: Check the wind reports before you go up! The sun was beating down and there was a stiff breeze in the car park... and a gale force 10 wind on top of the crag that made it unpleasant enough to call it quits after one route.
skydivingbluecat - 03/May/07
Wimberry rocks is fantastic. A beautiful crag in a beautiful setting with excellent routes! Yes it can be green, but don't necessarily wait for a scorching summer's day to get up there. I'm tempted not to say all the above lest it's usual quietness be spoilt, but I feel I owe it to the crag to get more climbers up there. Also, the trek up there is an excellent warm up (Lazy gits!).
AlistairJ - 17/Oct/06
I'd forgotten how grim the walk in is! On a hot summer day with a heavy pack on it is an unpleasant slog up the hillside :(
Nick Smith - UKC - 12/Jun/06
Excellent bouldering to be had around the plantation area and underneath the crag.
Neil - 03/Sep/05
Pure Moorland Gritstone..A Dark Peak crag to rival any gritstone crag in the High Peak; difference being that there ain't no crowds. Chew Valley the hidden gem!
Phil Davies - 15/Feb/05
This is a brilliant crag - beautiful routes, great views. Don't be put off by the 30 mins walk in. It's amazing that a crag with so many 3-star routes has no polish - even on a classic HS!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Freddie's Finale
2 P.S.
-
VD 10
3 Thermometer Crack VS 4c * 56
4 Sorrow
-
HVS 5b  
5 Crack and Slab S 4a 39
6 Short Crack VS 5a * 31
7 Pinball Wizard E1 5b ** 121
8 Blind Faith E2 5c * 5
9 Eight Metre Corner D * 105
10 Houdini HVS 5b 5
11 Poltergeist VS 4b 25
12 Blocked Chimney VD * 48
13 Arête du Coeur E4 5c 2
14 Ornithologist's Corner VS 5a *** 184
15 Surprise Arête HVS 4c * 19
16 One-way Ticket E2 5b *  
17 Surprise VS 4b ** 143
18 Swing-Up
-
E1 5a  
19 The Yellow-bellied Gonk E4 6a * 1
20 Overhanging Chimney VD * 58
21 Freddie's Finale HVS 5b *** 107
  Hanging Groove
23 Double Take E6 6b ** 2
24 Wimberry Overhang E6 6c *** 1
25 Space Oddity E5 6c *  
26 Space Shuffle E4 6a ** 2
27 Hanging Groove VS 4c ** 55
28 Wet Hound's Honk
-
E3 5c  
29 Hanging Groove Variations VS 4c ** 3
30 Order of the Phoenix E8 6c ** 1
31 The Bad Attitude Brothers
-
E3 6a * 3
32 Coffin Crack VS 4c ** 119
  The Trident
34 Berlin Wall E6 6c **  
35 Sectioned E8 6c ***  
36 Neptune's Tool E6 6c *** 3
37 Wristcutter's Lullaby E6 6c ***  
38 Desecration E4 6a *  
39 The Trident E1 5b *** 93
40 MaDMAn E8 6b **  
41 Cheltenham Gold Cup E5 6c **  
42 Bertie's Bugbear S 4a *** 195
43 Off with his Head
-
E2 6a  
44 Sickbay Shuffle E3 5b ** 15
45 Thorn in the Side-wall E5 6a 2
46 Dangermouse
-
E9 7a **  
47 Lateral Slinking
-
E4 6a *  
48 Piety E2 5c *** 10
49 Blasphemy E2 5c *** 113
50 Blue Light's Crack E1 5b ** 44
51 Green Streak HVS 5a ** 7
52 The Possessed E7 6b **  
53 Sacrilege E2 5c **  
54 Starvation Chimney S 3c ** 38
55 Left Leg Finish
-
HVS 5a * 1
56 Right Leg Finish
-
HVS 5a *  
57 Splits
-
HVS 5a *  
  Route I
59 Baron Greenback
-
E9 7a  
60 Baron Greenback Direct
-
E10 7a  
61 Appointment with Fear E7 6b *** 4
62 Unknown Stones E9 6c *** 1
63 Appointment with Death E9 6c *** 3
64 Route I HS 4b *** 391
65 Route 1.5
-
V1  
66 Purple Rat
-
E2 5b  
67 Route II VS 5a *** 254
68 Virgin Flier
-
E3 6a  
69 Halina E2 5c * 20
70 Michael Knight Wears a Chest Wig E7 6c *  
71 Twin Cracks S 4b * 85
  Herringbone Slab
73 Missed Opportunity
-
VS 5a  
74 The Quiver
-
E3 5b 1
75 Squirmer's Chimney S 4a *** 28
76 Chockblock E5 6b 2
77 Consolation Prize E5 6a *** 15
78 Disconsolate E6 6a * 1
79 Slab Gully VD 30
80 Slab Climb HS 4a ** 85
81 Herringbone Slab HVS 4c ** 64
82 Herringbone Slab Right-hand
-
E1 5a 1
83 Groove and Chimney D 18
84 Tap Dance E3 5c * 8
85 Charm E3 5c ** 61
86 The Climb with No Name E5 6a * 2
87 Cooking Crack HS 4b 1
  Northern Ballet
89 Sloping Crack HVD * 34
90 Piedra Verde E6 6a *  
Climb name Grade
91 Wall and Bulge E2 5b ** 9
92 Dream of Blackpool Donkeys E3 5c * 5
93 Blood, Sweat and Tears E2 5b  
94 Appointment Missed E5 6b  
95 The Twilight Zone E4 5c * 2
96 Cranberry Crack VS 5a 2
97 Curving Arête VD 17
98 Fisher's Chimney HVD 14
99 Mello-Drama
-
E1 6a  
100 Kvick Chimney HS 4c 6
101 Village Green E3 6c *  
102 Cloudberry Wall VS 5b 1
103 Cloud Busting E1 6a 1
104 Cave Groove VS 4b 1
105 Cave Rib E2 5b 1
106 Pulsation Crack
-
VS 4c  
107 Kanawana
-
E1 6a  
108 Forenoon Groove
-
S 4b 1
109 Ding
-
HVS 4c 1
110 Dong
-
VS 5c 1
111 Dirty Crack
-
VS 5a  
112 A Walk with Whittaker E3 6a *  
113 Northern Ballet E3 5b ** 15
114 Slab n' Tickle
-
E4 5c *  
115 Green but Sure E1 5a * 13
116 Rail Trail f7A+ 1
117 Highball Wizard
-
V3  
118 Highball Wizard Arête
-
V3  
  *Wimberry Boulders*
  Sugar Loaf
121 Artificial Route f4+ * 143
122 Artificial Route Sit-start
-
f7B * 18
123 Green Wall f4 ** 57
124 Right Arête f5+ * 64
125 Way Down f3+ * 194
126 Local Wad f7A+ 5
127 Local Wad Sit-start f7B+ 2
128 Floofy One f7C 1
129 Jesus Christ Fenton, I've got Bleeding Tips! f7B 2
130 Angus f6B ** 59
131 Angus Sit-start f7B 10
132 Angus Right f6B * 17
133 Rib Left f5 * 40
134 Rib Right f3+ * 208
135 Left Arête f5+ ** 151
136 Left Arête Sit-start f7A * 27
137 Local Hero f6B+ ** 142
138 Chipless Hero f7A 8
139 Local Hero Sit-start f7C+ 2
140 Baxter's Wall f6A+ * 63
141 Baxter's Wall Direct f5+ * 63
142 Brush Electric f7C * 1
143 Sugar Loaf Girdle f6C *  
  Sloping Top
145 Left Arête f5 * 57
146 Sloping Top Wall f5 34
147 Letterbox Slot f5+ * 213
148 Fat Slapper f6B+ ** 145
149 Fat Slapper Sit-start
-
f7A ** 58
150 Slap Happy f6C+ ** 50
151 Slap Happy Low Start f7B+ 2
152 Slapstick f6C * 13
153 The Grey Road f7C *  
  Short Slab Boulder
155 Sloper f3+ 78
156 Slap Up f6B 22
157 Sloping Traverse
-
V2 25
  Stream Boulder
159 Shallow Water f6A 32
160 Stream Slab f3 * 111
161 Stream Arête f4 * 81
162 Leather V0 1
163 Suede V6  
  The Slab
165 Chipper f3 * 166
166 The Slab f4 * 132
  The Tank
168 The Descent V0- 120
169 Left Slab f4+ * 117
170 Elephant's Traverse f5+ 12
171 Diagonal Crack f3+ * 259
172 Tanked Up f3+ * 190
173 Chipper f4 ** 225
174 Moby Dick f5+ * 28
175 Enhancing Hero f6C ** 114
176 Enhancing Hero Sit-start
-
f7B * 6
177 Elephant's Bum f5 ** 312
178 Elephant's Bum Sit-start
-
f6C 7
179 Bum-Slide f6B * 44
180 Stateside f7B+ *** 9
Climb name Grade
181 Unclimbed Dyno
-
?  
182 Think Tank Left-hand V3 27
183 Think Tank f6B * 137
184 Beginners' Slab f3 * 121
  Shell Shot
186 Take Cover f7A+ * 10
187 Howitzer f6A * 2
188 Shell Shot f4 * 74
189 Shell Shock f3+ ** 90
190 The Cannon f6A * 28
  Groove Boulder
192 Groove f6B ** 20
193 Groove Traverse f7A+ 4
194 Handrail f5+ * 22
  The Scoop
196 Steve's Wall f7A+ ** 5
197 Scoop Left f5+ * 38
198 Scoop Centre f5+ * 27
199 The Scoop f3 ** 80
  The Whale
201 Pockets f5+ * 108
202 Whale Eliminate V6 * 1
203 Grit Style f6B ** 21
204 Whale Traverse f7B * 1
205 Whalebone f4 94
206 The Flake f3+ 9
207 The Flake Eliminate V7 *  
  Matterhorn
209 The Nipple f6A * 46
210 The Nipple Sit-start f6B+ 2
211 West's Route f5+ ** 60
212 Winsome f7A+ *** 17
213 Zmutt Ridge f5+ * 71
214 South Arête f3+ * 20
215 South Face Direct f5 * 34
216 South Face f3+ * 128
217 Eliminator f6A * 91
218 Hörnli Ridge f3 * 95
219 Forefinger Exercise V4 7
  Fish Boulder
221 You're Joking! f7B 31
222 Fish Groove f6B+ * 63
223 Fish Arête f7A *** 124
224 Fish Arête Sit-start
-
V8 *** 21
225 The Fish Slab f3 * 84
226 Fish Slab Central f4+ * 68
227 Fish Slab Right f5 * 46
228 Not So Coarse f6A * 12
229 The Coarse Traverse f7A ** 48
230 The Coarse Mantel f7A ** 1
231 Dark Matter f7C *** 10
232 Fish Dish f6B * 74
233 Fish Dish Extended f6C+ 3
234 Fish Eye f4 * 33
235 Fish Traverse f7A ** 4
236 Sloping Shelf f6A+ 20
237 Grouper f6B 20
  Square Block
239 Square Arête f4+ 21
240 Square Arête Sit-start
-
V3 4
241 Groove f3 48
242 Grooves f3+ 18
243 Flaky Stepped Groove f3 31
244 Arch Enemy f7A * 1
245 Scoop Mantel f5+ * 12
246 Cave Dweller f5+ 5
247 Cave Traverse f6A 1
  Salmon Boulder
249 Sushi V1 1
250 Cheap as Chips V1 * 2
251 Poached f3+ * 33
252 Smoked f4 * 26
253 Le Petit Tank f4+ * 26
254 Le Petit Tank Left-hand Sit-start
-
f5 * 13
255 Le Petit Tank Right-hand Sit-start
-
V4  
256 Raw f4+ 12
257 Leap f3+ 10
258 Leap Sit-start f6B * 7
  Top Slab
260 Peas of Mine f5 * 2
261 Sip in Side f4 ** 23
262 Pool Wall f4+ * 4
  Mole Boulder
264 S Arête f6A 2
265 S Arête Sit-start
-
V6  
266 Directissima f7B+ *** 5
267 Mr Mole f6C * 1
268 Mrs Mole f5 * 2

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