Climbs 229
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 440m a.s.l
Faces N

Russell on the Elephant's Bum © StuM

Crag features

The best crag in Chew Valley and one of the most impressive in The Peak. Huge prows, smooth slabs and ferocious cracks/grooves abound giving good routes of all grades. Cold. Damp and green early in the year this is an ideal 'heat wave' crag. Just a sample of the best routes to go at; Bertie's Bugbear (S), Route 1 (HS 4b), Coffin Crack (VS 4c), The Trident (HVS 5a), Freddie's Finale (HVS 5b - tape up!) and Blasphemy (E2 5c). Lovers of Hard Grit will be spoilt for choice, Neptune's Tool (E5 6c), Wristcutter's Lullaby (E6 6c), and Appointment With Fear (E7 6b) are just a few of a superb selection.

Approach notes

From the Dovestones Reservoir car park (SE 014034), walk past the Yachting Club House to reach the bridge crossing Chew Brook. Follow this upstream until a path leads rightwards to the rocks (30 min).


Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
Note to self: Check the wind reports before you go up! The sun was beating down and there was a stiff breeze in the car park... and a gale force 10 wind on top of the crag that made it unpleasant enough to call it quits after one route.
skydivingbluecat - 03/May/07
Wimberry rocks is fantastic. A beautiful crag in a beautiful setting with excellent routes! Yes it can be green, but don't necessarily wait for a scorching summer's day to get up there. I'm tempted not to say all the above lest it's usual quietness be spoilt, but I feel I owe it to the crag to get more climbers up there. Also, the trek up there is an excellent warm up (Lazy gits!).
AlistairJ - 17/Oct/06
I'd forgotten how grim the walk in is! On a hot summer day with a heavy pack on it is an unpleasant slog up the hillside :(
Nick Smith - UKC - 12/Jun/06
Excellent bouldering to be had around the plantation area and underneath the crag.
Neil - 03/Sep/05
Pure Moorland Gritstone..A Dark Peak crag to rival any gritstone crag in the High Peak; difference being that there ain't no crowds. Chew Valley the hidden gem!
Phil Davies - 15/Feb/05
This is a brilliant crag - beautiful routes, great views. Don't be put off by the 30 mins walk in. It's amazing that a crag with so many 3-star routes has no polish - even on a classic HS!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
VD 9
2Thermometer CrackVS 4b *47
3Crack and SlabS 4a *36
4Short CrackVS 5a *21
5Pinball WizardE2 5c **106
6Blind FaithE3 6a 3
7Eight Metre CornerD *92
8HoudiniHVS 5b 1
9PoltergeistVS 4b 20
10Blocked ChimneyHVD *41
11Arete du CoeurE4 5c 1
12Ornithologist's CornerVS 4b **141
13Surprise AreteHVS 4c *15
14One-way TicketE2 5b * 
15SurpriseVS 4c **113
16The Yellow Bellied GonkE4 6a  
17Overhang ChimneyVD *55
18Freddie's FinaleE1 5b ***103
19Double TakeE5 6b ** 
20Wimberry OverhangE5 6c ** 
21Space OddityE5 6c * 
22Space ShuffleE4 6a **1
23Hanging GrooveVS 4c **50
24Hanging Groove VariationsVS 4c **3
25The Bad Attitude BrothersE3 6a *3
26Order of the PhoenixE9 6c *1
27Coffin CrackVS 4c ***102
28Berlin WallE6 6b ** 
29SectionedE8 6c  
30Neptune's ToolE5 6c ***3
31Wristcutter's LullabyE6 6c *** 
32DesecrationE3 6a * 
33The TridentHVS 5a ***92
34MaDMAnE7 6b ** 
35Cheltenham Gold CupE4 6c * 
36Bertie's BugbearS 4a ***183
37Sickbay ShuffleE2 5a **13
38Thorn in the Side-wallE4 6a 1
E9 7a ** 
40PietyE2 5c ***6
41BlasphemyE2 5c ***102
42Blue Light's CrackE1 5b **32
43Green StreakHVS 5a *3
44The PossessedE7 6b  
45SacrilegeE2 5c ** 
46Starvation ChimneyHVD **32
47Left Leg FinishHVS 5a *1
48Right Leg FinishHVS 5a * 
49Baron GreenbackE9  
50Baron Greenback Direct
51Appointment With FearE7 6b ***2
52Unknown StonesE9 6c ***1
53Appointment with DeathE9 6c 2
54Route 1HS 4b ***353
55Route IIVS 5a **218
56HalinaE2 5c **15
57Michael Knight Wears a Chest WigE7 6c * 
58Twin CracksS 4a *69
59ChockblockE5 6b *2
60Squirmer's ChimneyS 4a **23
61The QuiverE3 5b 1
62Consolation PrizeE5 6a ***11
63DisconsolateE6 6a *1
64Slab GullyVD 26
65Slab ClimbHVD *76
66Herringbone SlabHVS 4c **63
67Groove and ChimneyD 16
68Tap DanceE3 5c *7
69CharmE3 5c **48
70The Climb with no NameE5 6a *1
71Cooking CrackHS 4b 1
72Sloping CrackVD *26
73Piedra VerdeE6 6a  
74Wall and BulgeE2 5b *7
75Dream of Blackpool DonkeysE2 5b *5
76Appointment MissedE5 6b  
77Blood, Sweat and TearsE2 5b  
78The Twilight ZoneE4 5c *1
79Cranberry CrackVS 5a 2
80Curving AreteVD 16
81Fisher's ChimneyVD 13
82Kvick ChimneyHS 4c 3
83Village GreenE3 6c * 
84Cloudberry WallVS 5b 1
85CloudbustingE1 6b 1
86Cave Groove
VS 4c  
87Cave Rib
E2 5b 1
88Pulsation Crack
VS 4c  
89Forenoon Groove
S 4b 1
HVS 4c  
91DongVS 5c  
92A Walk with WhittakerE3 6a * 
93Northern BalletE4 5b **10
94Green but SureE1 5a *12
 Sugar Loaf 
96Artificial Routef4+ *114
97Artificial Route Sit Start
f7B *10
98Green Wallf4 **10
99Right Aretef5+ *38
100Way Downf3+ *129
101Angus Left AreteV3 7
102Angusf6B **36
103Angus Sit Startf7B 10
104Angus Rightf6B *14
105Rib Leftf5 *8
106Local Wad Stand Startf7A+ 5
107Local Wadf7B+ 2
108Rib Rightf3+ *168
109Left Arete (Sugar Loaf)f5+ **113
110Left Arete Sit Startf7A *17
111Local Herof6B+ **108
112Local Hero Sit Startf7C+ 2
113Baxter's Wallf6A+ *50
114Baxters Wall Directf5+ *52
115Sugar Loaf Girdlef6C * 
116Brush Electricf7C *1
117Chipless Herof6C 6
 Short Slab boulder 
119Left Chipsf3+ 70
120Right Arete SSf6B 19
121Sloping Traversef6A 20
 Sloping Top 
123Left Arete (Sloping)f5 *42
124Sloping Top Wallf5 28
125Letterbox Slotf5+ *161
126Fat Slapperf6B+ **105
127Fat Slapper Sit Start
f7A *42
128Slap Happyf6C+ **42
129Slapstickf6C *10
130The Grey Roadf7C  
 Slab boulder 
132Chipper (Slab)f3 *124
133The Slabf4 *102
 Stream boulder 
135Shallow Waterf6A 29
136Stream Slabf3 *83
137Stream Aretef4 *60
 The Tank 
139The DescentV0- 104
140Left Slabf4+ *12
141Diagonal Crackf3+ *195
142Tanked Upf3+ *150
143Chipper (Tank)f4 **171
144Moby Dickf5+ *7
145Enhancing Herof6C **95
146Enhancing Hero Sit Start
f7B *4
147Elephant's Bumf5 **242
148Elephant's Bum Sitter *
f6C 2
149Bum-Slidef6B *1
150Statesidef7B+ ***5
151Unclimbed Dyno
152Think Tankf6B *104
153Think Tank (Hard Version)f6C+ 19
154Beginner's Slabf3 *112
155Elephant's Traversef5+ 12
156Advertf4+ 66
157Fat Pinch
f6C *32
 Shell Shot 
159Take Coverf7A+ *9
160Howitzerf6A *2
161Shell Shotf4 *59
162Shell Shockf3+ **73
163The Cannonf6A *22
 Groove Boulder 
165Groovef6B **16
166Groove Traversef7A+ 2
167Handrailf5+ *13
 The Whale 
169Pocketsf5+ *80
170Whale Eliminatef6B+ *1
171Grit Stylef6B **18
172Whalebonef4 74
173Whale Traversef7B * 
174The Flakef3+ 5
175Sam's Slopers
f7B * 
 The Scoop 
177Steve's Wallf7A+ **2
178Scoop Leftf5+ *33
179Scoop Left direct start
f6A 7
180Scoop Centref5+ *14
181The Scoop direct start
f6A 2
182The Scoopf3 **62
184The Nipplef6A *40
185The Nipple Sit Startf6B+ 2
186West's Routef5+ **55
187Winsomef7A+ ***13
188Zmutt Ridgef5+ *66
189South Aretef3+ *5
190South Face Directf5 *24
191South Facef3+ *104
192Eliminatorf6A *75
193Hörnli Ridgef3 *69
194Forefinger ExerciseV4 6
 Fish Boulder 
196You're Joking!f7B 21
197Fish Groovef6B+ *57
198Fish Aretef7A ***96
199Fish Arete Sit Start
f7B+ ***17
200The Fish Slabf3 *60
201Fish Slab Centralf4+ *39
202Fish Slab Rightf5 *26
203The Coarse Traversef7A **30
204Not So Coarsef6A *5
205Dark Matterf7C ***3
206Fish Dishf6B *60
207Fish Dish Extensionf6C+ 3
208Fish Eyef4 *24
209Fish Traversef7A **3
210Grouperf6B 16
211Sloping Shelff6A+ 17
 Square Block 
213Square Aretef4+ 6
214Square Arete sit startV3 2
215Groove (Square Block)f3 28
217Flaky Stepped Groovef3 28
218Arch Enemyf7A * 
219Poor Crimpf7A * 
220Scoop Rockoverf6B *8
221Scoop Mantelf5+ * 
222Cave Dwellerf5+ 3
223Cave Traversef6A 1
 Salmon Boulder 
225SushiV1 1
226Cheap as ChipsV1 *2
227Poachedf3+ *20
228Smokedf4 *18
229Le Petit Tankf4+ *17
230Le Petit Tank Sit-start
f5 *11
231Rawf4+ 6
232Leapf3+ 6
233Leap Sit-startf6B *4
 Top Slab 
235Peas of Minef5 *2
236Sip in Sidef4 **14
237Pool Wallf4+ *4
 Mole Boulder 
239Mole Aretef6A 2
240Directissimaf7B+ ***8
241Mr Molef6C *1
242Mrs Molef5 *2
 Crag Problems 
244Rail Trailf7A+ 1
246Jesus Christ Fenton, I've got Bleeding Tips!f7B 2
247Floofy Onef7C 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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