Climbs 229
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 440m a.s.l
Faces N

Russell on the Elephant's Bum © StuM

Crag features

The best crag in Chew Valley and one of the most impressive in The Peak. Huge prows, smooth slabs and ferocious cracks/grooves abound giving good routes of all grades. Cold. Damp and green early in the year this is an ideal 'heat wave' crag. Just a sample of the best routes to go at; Bertie's Bugbear (S), Route 1 (HS 4b), Coffin Crack (VS 4c), The Trident (HVS 5a), Freddie's Finale (HVS 5b - tape up!) and Blasphemy (E2 5c). Lovers of Hard Grit will be spoilt for choice, Neptune's Tool (E5 6c), Wristcutter's Lullaby (E6 6c), and Appointment With Fear (E7 6b) are just a few of a superb selection.

Approach notes

From the Dovestones Reservoir car park (SE 014034), walk past the Yachting Club House to reach the bridge crossing Chew Brook. Follow this upstream until a path leads rightwards to the rocks (30 min).


Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Note to self: Check the wind reports before you go up! The sun was beating down and there was a stiff breeze in the car park... and a gale force 10 wind on top of the crag that made it unpleasant enough to call it quits after one route.
skydivingbluecat - 03/May/07
Wimberry rocks is fantastic. A beautiful crag in a beautiful setting with excellent routes! Yes it can be green, but don't necessarily wait for a scorching summer's day to get up there. I'm tempted not to say all the above lest it's usual quietness be spoilt, but I feel I owe it to the crag to get more climbers up there. Also, the trek up there is an excellent warm up (Lazy gits!).
AlistairJ - 17/Oct/06
I'd forgotten how grim the walk in is! On a hot summer day with a heavy pack on it is an unpleasant slog up the hillside :(
Nick Smith - UKC - 12/Jun/06
Excellent bouldering to be had around the plantation area and underneath the crag.
Neil - 03/Sep/05
Pure Moorland Gritstone..A Dark Peak crag to rival any gritstone crag in the High Peak; difference being that there ain't no crowds. Chew Valley the hidden gem!
Phil Davies - 15/Feb/05
This is a brilliant crag - beautiful routes, great views. Don't be put off by the 30 mins walk in. It's amazing that a crag with so many 3-star routes has no polish - even on a classic HS!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
VD 9
2Thermometer CrackVS 4b *49
3Crack and SlabS 4a *36
4Short CrackVS 5a *22
5Pinball WizardE2 5c **107
6Blind FaithE3 6a 3
7Eight Metre CornerD *92
8HoudiniHVS 5b 1
9PoltergeistVS 4b 20
10Blocked ChimneyHVD *41
11Arete du CoeurE4 5c 1
12Ornithologist's CornerVS 4b **144
13Surprise AreteHVS 4c *15
14One-way TicketE2 5b * 
15SurpriseVS 4c **116
16The Yellow Bellied GonkE4 6a  
17Overhang ChimneyVD *55
18Freddie's FinaleE1 5b ***103
19Double TakeE5 6b ** 
20Wimberry OverhangE5 6c ** 
21Space OddityE5 6c * 
22Space ShuffleE4 6a **1
23Hanging GrooveVS 4c **50
24Hanging Groove VariationsVS 4c **3
25The Bad Attitude BrothersE3 6a *3
26Order of the PhoenixE9 6c *1
27Coffin CrackVS 4c ***102
28Berlin WallE6 6b ** 
29SectionedE8 6c  
30Neptune's ToolE5 6c ***3
31Wristcutter's LullabyE6 6c *** 
32DesecrationE3 6a * 
33The TridentHVS 5a ***93
34MaDMAnE7 6b ** 
35Cheltenham Gold CupE4 6c * 
36Bertie's BugbearS 4a ***183
37Sickbay ShuffleE2 5a **13
38Thorn in the Side-wallE4 6a 1
E9 7a ** 
40PietyE2 5c ***6
41BlasphemyE2 5c ***102
42Blue Light's CrackE1 5b **33
43Green StreakHVS 5a *3
44The PossessedE7 6b  
45SacrilegeE2 5c ** 
46Starvation ChimneyHVD **32
47Left Leg FinishHVS 5a *1
48Right Leg FinishHVS 5a * 
49Baron GreenbackE9  
50Baron Greenback Direct
51Appointment With FearE7 6b ***14
52Unknown StonesE9 6c ***1
53Appointment with DeathE9 6c 2
54Route 1HS 4b ***363
55Route IIVS 5a **222
56HalinaE2 5c **15
57Michael Knight Wears a Chest WigE7 6c * 
58Twin CracksS 4a *71
59ChockblockE5 6b *2
60Squirmer's ChimneyS 4a **23
61The QuiverE3 5b 1
62Consolation PrizeE5 6a ***11
63DisconsolateE6 6a *1
64Slab GullyVD 26
65Slab ClimbHVD *76
66Herringbone SlabHVS 4c **63
67Groove and ChimneyD 16
68Tap DanceE3 5c *7
69CharmE3 5c **48
70The Climb with no NameE5 6a *1
71Cooking CrackHS 4b 1
72Sloping CrackVD *26
73Piedra VerdeE6 6a  
74Wall and BulgeE2 5b *7
75Dream of Blackpool DonkeysE2 5b *5
76Appointment MissedE5 6b  
77Blood, Sweat and TearsE2 5b  
78The Twilight ZoneE4 5c *1
79Cranberry CrackVS 5a 2
80Curving AreteVD 16
81Fisher's ChimneyVD 13
82Kvick ChimneyHS 4c 3
83Village GreenE3 6c * 
84Cloudberry WallVS 5b 1
85CloudbustingE1 6b 1
86Cave Groove
VS 4c  
87Cave Rib
E2 5b 1
88Pulsation Crack
VS 4c  
89Forenoon Groove
S 4b 1
HVS 4c  
91DongVS 5c  
92A Walk with WhittakerE3 6a * 
93Northern BalletE4 5b **10
94Green but SureE1 5a *12
 Sugar Loaf 
96Artificial Routef4+ *115
97Artificial Route Sit Start
f7B *11
98Green Wallf4 **12
99Right Aretef5+ *39
100Way Downf3+ *134
101Angus Left AreteV3 7
102Angusf6B **38
103Angus Sit Startf7B 10
104Angus Rightf6B *14
105Rib Leftf5 *10
106Local Wad Stand Startf7A+ 5
107Local Wadf7B+ 2
108Rib Rightf3+ *170
109Left Arete (Sugar Loaf)f5+ **114
110Left Arete Sit Startf7A *20
111Local Herof6B+ **111
112Local Hero Sit Startf7C+ 2
113Baxter's Wallf6A+ *50
114Baxters Wall Directf5+ *53
115Sugar Loaf Girdlef6C * 
116Brush Electricf7C *1
117Chipless Herof6C 6
 Short Slab boulder 
119Left Chipsf3+ 71
120Right Arete SSf6B 20
121Sloping Traversef6A 21
 Sloping Top 
123Left Arete (Sloping)f5 *44
124Sloping Top Wallf5 28
125Letterbox Slotf5+ *163
126Fat Slapperf6B+ **108
127Fat Slapper Sit Start
f7A *44
128Slap Happyf6C+ **43
129Slapstickf6C *10
130The Grey Roadf7C  
131Slap Happy Low Start *f7B+ 1
 Slab boulder 
133Chipper (Slab)f3 *132
134The Slabf4 *109
 Stream boulder 
136Shallow Waterf6A 29
137Stream Slabf3 *89
138Stream Aretef4 *65
 The Tank 
140The DescentV0- 108
141Left Slabf4+ *15
142Diagonal Crackf3+ *202
143Tanked Upf3+ *152
144Chipper (Tank)f4 **175
145Moby Dickf5+ *9
146Enhancing Herof6C **97
147Enhancing Hero Sit Start
f7B *4
148Elephant's Bumf5 **251
149Elephant's Bum Sitter *
f6C 2
150Bum-Slidef6B *5
151Statesidef7B+ ***5
152Unclimbed Dyno
153Think Tankf6B *106
154Think Tank (Hard Version)f6C+ 22
155Beginner's Slabf3 *112
156Elephant's Traversef5+ 12
157Advertf4+ 66
158Fat Pinch
f6C *32
 Shell Shot 
160Take Coverf7A+ *9
161Howitzerf6A *2
162Shell Shotf4 *62
163Shell Shockf3+ **75
164The Cannonf6A *22
 Groove Boulder 
166Groovef6B **17
167Groove Traversef7A+ 2
168Handrailf5+ *13
 The Whale 
170Pocketsf5+ *81
171Whale Eliminatef6B+ *1
172Grit Stylef6B **18
173Whalebonef4 77
174Whale Traversef7B * 
175The Flakef3+ 6
176Sam's Slopers
f7B * 
 The Scoop 
178Steve's Wallf7A+ **2
179Scoop Leftf5+ *33
180Scoop Left direct start
f6A 7
181Scoop Centref5+ *14
182The Scoop direct start
f6A 2
183The Scoopf3 **63
185The Nipplef6A *40
186The Nipple Sit Startf6B+ 2
187West's Routef5+ **55
188Winsomef7A+ ***14
189Zmutt Ridgef5+ *66
190South Aretef3+ *8
191South Face Directf5 *25
192South Facef3+ *107
193Eliminatorf6A *75
194Hörnli Ridgef3 *73
195Forefinger ExerciseV4 6
 Fish Boulder 
197You're Joking!f7B 21
198Fish Groovef6B+ *57
199Fish Aretef7A ***100
200Fish Arete Sit Start
f7B+ ***17
201The Fish Slabf3 *62
202Fish Slab Centralf4+ *41
203Fish Slab Rightf5 *28
204The Coarse Traversef7A **37
205Not So Coarsef6A *5
206Dark Matterf7C ***3
207Fish Dishf6B *63
208Fish Dish Extensionf6C+ 3
209Fish Eyef4 *25
210Fish Traversef7A **3
211Grouperf6B 16
212Sloping Shelff6A+ 18
 Square Block 
214Square Aretef4+ 8
215Square Arete sit startV3 2
216Groove (Square Block)f3 32
217Groovesf3+ 3
218Flaky Stepped Groovef3 29
219Arch Enemyf7A * 
220Poor Crimpf7A * 
221Scoop Rockoverf6B *8
222Scoop Mantelf5+ *1
223Cave Dwellerf5+ 4
224Cave Traversef6A 1
 Salmon Boulder 
226SushiV1 1
227Cheap as ChipsV1 *2
228Poachedf3+ *23
229Smokedf4 *21
230Le Petit Tankf4+ *18
231Le Petit Tank Sit-start
f5 *12
232Rawf4+ 7
233Leapf3+ 7
234Leap Sit-startf6B *4
 Top Slab 
236Peas of Minef5 *2
237Sip in Sidef4 **16
238Pool Wallf4+ *4
 Mole Boulder 
240Mole Aretef6A 2
241Directissimaf7B+ ***8
242Mr Molef6C *1
243Mrs Molef5 *2
 Crag Problems 
245Rail Trailf7A+ 1
247Jesus Christ Fenton, I've got Bleeding Tips!f7B 2
248Floofy Onef7C 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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