Climbs 232
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 440m a.s.l
Faces N

Russell on the Elephant's Bum © StuM

Crag features

The best crag in Chew Valley and one of the most impressive in The Peak. Huge prows, smooth slabs and ferocious cracks/grooves abound giving good routes of all grades. Cold. Damp and green early in the year this is an ideal 'heat wave' crag. Just a sample of the best routes to go at; Bertie's Bugbear (S), Route 1 (HS 4b), Coffin Crack (VS 4c), The Trident (HVS 5a), Freddie's Finale (HVS 5b - tape up!) and Blasphemy (E2 5c). Lovers of Hard Grit will be spoilt for choice, Neptune's Tool (E5 6c), Wristcutter's Lullaby (E6 6c), and Appointment With Fear (E7 6b) are just a few of a superb selection.

Approach notes

From the Dovestones Reservoir car park (SE 014034), walk past the Yachting Club House to reach the bridge crossing Chew Brook. Follow this upstream until a path leads rightwards to the rocks (30 min).

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Brilliant crag. Desperately needs so more traffic (or a good clean). Great climbs but felt spicy with so much lichen and dirt on the rock.
CarlaJG - 01/May/17
Note to self: Check the wind reports before you go up! The sun was beating down and there was a stiff breeze in the car park... and a gale force 10 wind on top of the crag that made it unpleasant enough to call it quits after one route.
skydivingbluecat - 03/May/07
Wimberry rocks is fantastic. A beautiful crag in a beautiful setting with excellent routes! Yes it can be green, but don't necessarily wait for a scorching summer's day to get up there. I'm tempted not to say all the above lest it's usual quietness be spoilt, but I feel I owe it to the crag to get more climbers up there. Also, the trek up there is an excellent warm up (Lazy gits!).
AlistairJ - 17/Oct/06
I'd forgotten how grim the walk in is! On a hot summer day with a heavy pack on it is an unpleasant slog up the hillside :(
Nick Smith - UKC - 12/Jun/06
Excellent bouldering to be had around the plantation area and underneath the crag.
Neil - 03/Sep/05
Pure Moorland Gritstone..A Dark Peak crag to rival any gritstone crag in the High Peak; difference being that there ain't no crowds. Chew Valley the hidden gem!
Phil Davies - 15/Feb/05
This is a brilliant crag - beautiful routes, great views. Don't be put off by the 30 mins walk in. It's amazing that a crag with so many 3-star routes has no polish - even on a classic HS!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 PS
-
VD 9
2 Thermometer Crack VS 4b * 53
3 Crack and Slab S 4a * 36
4 Short Crack VS 5a * 24
5 Pinball Wizard E2 5c ** 110
6 Blind Faith E3 6a 3
7 Eight Metre Corner D * 91
8 Houdini HVS 5b 3
9 Poltergeist VS 4b 20
10 Blocked Chimney HVD * 41
11 Arete du Coeur E4 5c 1
12 Ornithologist's Corner VS 4b ** 147
13 Surprise Arete HVS 4c * 15
14 One-way Ticket E2 5b *  
15 Surprise VS 4c ** 123
16 The Yellow Bellied Gonk E4 6a  
17 Overhang Chimney VD * 55
18 Freddie's Finale E1 5b *** 106
19 Double Take E5 6b **  
20 Wimberry Overhang E5 6c **  
21 Space Oddity E5 6c *  
22 Space Shuffle E4 6a ** 1
23 Hanging Groove VS 4c ** 47
24 Hanging Groove Variations VS 4c ** 3
25 The Bad Attitude Brothers E3 6a * 3
26 Order of the Phoenix E9 6c * 1
27 Coffin Crack VS 4c *** 104
28 Berlin Wall E6 6b **  
29 Sectioned E8 6c  
30 Neptune's Tool E5 6c *** 3
31 Wristcutter's Lullaby E6 6c ***  
32 Desecration E3 6a *  
33 The Trident HVS 5a *** 98
34 MaDMAn E7 6b **  
35 Cheltenham Gold Cup E4 6c *  
36 Bertie's Bugbear S 4a *** 169
37 Sickbay Shuffle E2 5a ** 13
38 Thorn in the Side-wall E4 6a 1
39 Dangermouse
-
E9 7a **  
40 Piety E2 5c *** 11
41 Blasphemy E2 5c *** 105
42 Blue Light's Crack E1 5b ** 35
43 Green Streak HVS 5a * 3
44 The Possessed E7 6b  
45 Sacrilege E2 5c **  
46 Starvation Chimney HVD ** 29
47 Left Leg Finish HVS 5a * 1
48 Right Leg Finish HVS 5a *  
49 Baron Greenback E9  
50 Baron Greenback Direct
-
E10  
51 Appointment With Fear E7 6b *** 3
52 Unknown Stones E9 6c *** 1
53 Appointment with Death E9 6c 2
54 Route 1 HS 4b *** 369
55 Route II VS 5a ** 227
56 Halina E2 5c ** 15
57 Michael Knight Wears a Chest Wig E7 6c *  
58 Twin Cracks S 4a * 73
59 Chockblock E5 6b * 2
60 Squirmer's Chimney S 4a ** 23
61 The Quiver E3 5b 1
62 Consolation Prize E5 6a *** 11
63 Disconsolate E6 6a * 1
64 Slab Gully VD 26
65 Slab Climb HVD * 75
66 Herringbone Slab HVS 4c ** 58
67 Groove and Chimney D 16
68 Tap Dance E3 5c * 7
69 Charm E3 5c ** 48
70 The Climb with no Name E5 6a * 1
71 Cooking Crack HS 4b 1
72 Sloping Crack VD * 26
73 Piedra Verde E6 6a  
74 Wall and Bulge E2 5b * 7
75 Dream of Blackpool Donkeys E2 5b * 5
76 Appointment Missed E5 6b  
77 Blood, Sweat and Tears E2 5b  
78 The Twilight Zone E4 5c * 1
79 Cranberry Crack VS 5a 2
80 Curving Arete VD 16
81 Fisher's Chimney VD 13
82 Kvick Chimney HS 4c 3
83 Village Green E3 6c *  
84 Cloudberry Wall VS 5b 1
85 Cloudbusting E1 6b 1
86 Cave Groove
-
VS 4c  
87 Cave Rib
-
E2 5b 1
88 Pulsation Crack
-
VS 4c  
89 Forenoon Groove
-
S 4b 1
90 Ding
-
HVS 4c  
91 Dong VS 5c  
92 A Walk with Whittaker E3 6a *  
93 Northern Ballet E4 5b ** 10
94 Green but Sure E1 5a * 12
  Sugar Loaf
96 Artificial Route f4+ * 118
97 Artificial Route Sit Start
-
f7B * 16
98 Green Wall f4 ** 17
99 Right Arete f5+ * 43
100 Way Down f3+ * 141
101 Angus Left Arete V3 7
102 Angus f6B ** 39
103 Angus Sit Start f7B 10
104 Angus Right f6B * 14
105 Rib Left f5 * 12
106 Local Wad Stand Start f7A+ 5
107 Local Wad f7B+ 2
108 Rib Right f3+ * 173
109 Left Arete (Sugar Loaf) f5+ ** 116
110 Left Arete Sit Start f7A 6b * 25
111 Local Hero f6B+ ** 117
112 Local Hero Sit Start f7C+ 2
113 Baxter's Wall f6A+ * 50
114 Baxters Wall Direct f5+ * 54
115 Sugar Loaf Girdle f6C *  
116 Brush Electric f7C * 1
117 Chipless Hero f6C 6b 6
  Short Slab boulder
119 Left Chips f3+ 4b 73
120 Right Arete SS f6B 20
121 Sloping Traverse f6A 5c 22
  Sloping Top
123 Left Arete (Sloping) f5 * 44
124 Sloping Top Wall f5 28
125 Letterbox Slot f5+ * 164
126 Fat Slapper f6B+ ** 109
127 Fat Slapper Sit Start
-
f7A * 43
128 Slap Happy f6C+ ** 43
129 Slapstick f6C * 10
130 The Grey Road f7C  
131 Slap Happy Low Start f7B+ 1
  Slab boulder
133 Chipper (Slab) f3 * 134
134 The Slab f4 * 112
  Stream boulder
136 Shallow Water f6A 30
137 Stream Slab f3 * 92
138 Stream Arete f4 * 67
139 Leather * V0 4b 1
  The Tank
141 The Descent V0- 110
142 Left Slab f4+ * 18
143 Diagonal Crack f3+ * 210
144 Tanked Up f3+ * 155
145 Chipper (Tank) f4 ** 181
146 Moby Dick f5+ * 10
147 Enhancing Hero f6C ** 103
148 Enhancing Hero Sit Start
-
f7B * 4
149 Elephant's Bum f5 ** 258
150 Elephant's Bum Sitter
-
f6C 3
151 Bum-Slide f6B * 6
152 Stateside f7B+ *** 6
153 Unclimbed Dyno
-
?  
154 Think Tank f6B * 108
155 Think Tank (Hard Version) f6C+ 6b 20
156 Beginner's Slab f3 * 114
157 Elephant's Traverse f5+ 5c 12
158 Advert f4+ 4b 66
159 Fat Pinch
-
f6C * 32
  Shell Shot
161 Take Cover f7A+ * 6
162 Howitzer f6A * 2
163 Shell Shot f4 * 63
164 Shell Shock f3+ ** 77
165 The Cannon f6A * 23
  Groove Boulder
167 Groove f6B ** 17
168 Groove Traverse f7A+ 4
169 Handrail f5+ * 12
  The Whale
171 Pockets f5+ * 83
172 Whale Eliminate f6B+ * 1
173 Grit Style f6B ** 18
174 Whalebone f4 79
175 Whale Traverse f7B *  
176 The Flake f3+ 6
177 Sam's Slopers
-
f7B *  
  The Scoop
179 Steve's Wall f7A+ ** 3
180 Scoop Left f5+ * 33
181 Scoop Left direct start
-
f6A 7
182 Scoop Centre f5+ * 14
183 The Scoop direct start
-
f6A 2
184 The Scoop f3 ** 67
  Matterhorn
186 The Nipple f6A * 40
187 The Nipple Sit Start f6B+ 2
188 West's Route f5+ ** 55
189 Winsome f7A+ *** 14
190 Zmutt Ridge f5+ * 65
191 South Arete f3+ * 8
192 South Face Direct f5 * 25
193 South Face f3+ * 107
194 Eliminator f6A * 75
195 Hörnli Ridge f3 * 73
196 Forefinger Exercise V4 6b 6
  Fish Boulder
198 You're Joking! f7B 19
199 Fish Groove f6B+ * 58
200 Fish Arete f7A *** 104
201 Fish Arete Sit Start
-
f7B+ *** 14
202 The Fish Slab f3 * 63
203 Fish Slab Central f4+ * 44
204 Fish Slab Right f5 * 30
205 The Coarse Traverse f7A ** 32
206 Not So Coarse f6A * 6
207 Dark Matter f7C *** 4
208 Fish Dish f6B * 64
209 Fish Dish Extension f6C+ 3
210 Fish Eye f4 * 25
211 Fish Traverse f7A ** 4
212 Grouper f6B 18
213 Sloping Shelf f6A+ 18
  Square Block
215 Square Arete f4+ 9
216 Square Arete sit start V3 3
217 Groove (Square Block) f3 34
218 Grooves f3+ 6
219 Flaky Stepped Groove f3 29
220 Arch Enemy f7A *  
221 Poor Crimp f7A *  
222 Scoop Rockover f6B * 8
223 Scoop Mantel f5+ * 1
224 Cave Dweller f5+ 3
225 Cave Traverse f6A 1
  Salmon Boulder
227 Sushi V1 5b 1
228 Cheap as Chips V1 5c * 2
229 Poached f3+ * 23
230 Smoked f4 * 21
231 Le Petit Tank f4+ * 19
232 Le Petit Tank Sit-start
-
f5 * 12
233 Raw f4+ 7
234 Leap f3+ 7
235 Leap Sit-start f6B * 4
  Top Slab
237 Peas of Mine f5 * 2
238 Sip in Side f4 ** 17
239 Pool Wall f4+ * 4
  Mole Boulder
241 Mole Arete f6A 2
242 Directissima f7B+ *** 4
243 Mr Mole f6C * 1
244 Mrs Mole f5 * 2
  Crag Problems
246 Rail Trail f7A+ 1
  Unconfirmed
248 Jesus Christ Fenton, I've got Bleeding Tips! f7B 2
249 Floofy One f7C 1
250 Suede * V6  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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