Climbs 229
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 410m a.s.l
Faces N

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Russell on the Elephant's Bum © StuM

Crag features

Wimberry is the best of the fine set of cliffs in the Chew Valley, the Cinderella of Peak grit, an unsung gem of a crag with a fantastic collection of routes on an impressive series of buttresses in a dramatic setting, and with superb outward views. The downside (there has to be one) is that the crag faces north and the approach is a bit of a flog. Choose your conditions carefully though and you will be rewarded; here is a superb set of arduous cracks and osme thrilling face climbs. The cracks in particular have always had a reputation for being sternly graded. The face climbs include some of the best and hardest in the peak, though they see a lot less attention than their smaller brethren on Burbage South. It has been said that if the cliff faced south, it would be regarded as one of the best gritstone cliffs in the country.

Approach notes

There is extensive parking (Pay and Display) below the huge dam that holds back the Dovestone Reservoir. A metalled road leads past the sailing club boathouse then at the bridge across Chew Brook, take the path rightwards into the trees. This passes through the bouldering area and then starts a steady flog up the side of the stream to reach the left-hand side of the cliff in about 30 mins from the car. The final ascent is a good test of stamina.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
Everything besides "Dark Matter" needs a good clean. Pretty damp and wet today too.
John_Beesley - 01/Jan/19
Brilliant crag. Desperately needs so more traffic (or a good clean). Great climbs but felt spicy with so much lichen and dirt on the rock.
CarlaJG - 01/May/17
Note to self: Check the wind reports before you go up! The sun was beating down and there was a stiff breeze in the car park... and a gale force 10 wind on top of the crag that made it unpleasant enough to call it quits after one route.
skydivingbluecat - 03/May/07
Wimberry rocks is fantastic. A beautiful crag in a beautiful setting with excellent routes! Yes it can be green, but don't necessarily wait for a scorching summer's day to get up there. I'm tempted not to say all the above lest it's usual quietness be spoilt, but I feel I owe it to the crag to get more climbers up there. Also, the trek up there is an excellent warm up (Lazy gits!).
AlistairJ - 17/Oct/06
I'd forgotten how grim the walk in is! On a hot summer day with a heavy pack on it is an unpleasant slog up the hillside :(
Nick Smith - UKC - 12/Jun/06
Excellent bouldering to be had around the plantation area and underneath the crag.
Neil - 03/Sep/05
Pure Moorland Gritstone..A Dark Peak crag to rival any gritstone crag in the High Peak; difference being that there ain't no crowds. Chew Valley the hidden gem!
Phil Davies - 15/Feb/05
This is a brilliant crag - beautiful routes, great views. Don't be put off by the 30 mins walk in. It's amazing that a crag with so many 3-star routes has no polish - even on a classic HS!
Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Freddie's Finale
2 PS
-
VD 10
3 Thermometer Crack VS 4c * 56
4 Crack and Slab S 4a 38
5 Short Crack VS 5a * 31
6 Pinball Wizard E1 5b ** 119
7 Blind Faith E2 5c * 5
8 Eight Metre Corner D * 105
9 Houdini HVS 5b 5
10 Poltergeist VS 4b 25
11 Blocked Chimney VD * 48
12 Arête du Coeur E4 5c 1
13 Ornithologist's Corner VS 5a *** 183
14 Surprise Arête HVS 4c * 19
15 One-way Ticket E2 5b *  
16 Surprise VS 4b ** 143
17 The Yellow-bellied Gonk E4 6a *  
18 Overhang Chimney VD * 58
19 Freddie's Finale HVS 5b *** 107
  Hanging Groove
21 Double Take E6 6b ** 1
22 Wimberry Overhang E6 6c *** 1
23 Space Oddity E5 6c *  
24 Space Shuffle E4 6a ** 2
25 Hanging Groove VS 4c ** 55
26 Hanging Groove Variations VS 4c ** 3
27 The Bad Attitude Brothers
-
E3 6a * 3
28 Order of the Phoenix E8 6c ** 1
29 Coffin Crack VS 4c ** 119
  The Trident
31 Berlin Wall E6 6c **  
32 Sectioned E8 6c ***  
33 Neptune's Tool E6 6c *** 3
34 Wristcutter's Lullaby E6 6c ***  
35 Desecration E4 6a *  
36 The Trident E1 5b *** 93
37 MaDMAn E8 6b **  
38 Cheltenham Gold Cup E5 6c **  
39 Bertie's Bugbear S 4a *** 195
40 Sickbay Shuffle E3 5b ** 14
41 Thorn in the Side-wall E5 6a 1
42 Dangermouse
-
E9 7a **  
43 Piety E2 5c *** 10
44 Blasphemy E2 5c *** 113
45 Blue Light's Crack E1 5b ** 44
46 Green Streak HVS 5a * 7
47 The Possessed E7 6b **  
48 Sacrilege E2 5c **  
49 Starvation Chimney S 3c ** 38
50 Left Leg Finish
-
HVS 5a * 1
51 Right Leg Finish
-
HVS 5a *  
  Route I
53 Baron Greenback E9  
54 Baron Greenback Direct
-
E10  
55 Appointment with Fear E7 6b *** 4
56 Unknown Stones E9 6c *** 1
57 Appointment with Death E9 6c *** 3
58 Route I HS 4b *** 388
59 Route II VS 5a *** 253
60 Halina E2 5c * 19
61 Michael Knight Wears a Chest Wig E7 6c *  
62 Twin Cracks S 4b * 85
  Herringbone Slab
64 Squirmer's Chimney S 4a *** 28
65 Chockblock E5 6b 2
66 The Quiver
-
E3 5b 1
67 Consolation Prize E5 6a *** 13
68 Disconsolate E6 6a * 1
69 Slab Gully VD 30
70 Slab Climb HS 4a ** 83
71 Herringbone Slab HVS 4c ** 64
72 Groove and Chimney D 18
73 Tap Dance E3 5c * 8
74 Charm E3 5c ** 61
75 The Climb with No Name E5 6a * 1
76 Cooking Crack HS 4b 1
  Northern Ballet
78 Sloping Crack HVD * 34
79 Piedra Verde E6 6a *  
80 Wall and Bulge E2 5b ** 9
81 Dream of Blackpool Donkeys E3 5c * 5
82 Blood, Sweat and Tears E2 5b  
83 Appointment Missed E5 6b  
84 The Twilight Zone E4 5c * 1
Climb name Grade
85 Cranberry Crack VS 5a 2
86 Curving Arête VD 17
87 Fisher's Chimney HVD 14
88 Kvick Chimney HS 4c 5
89 Village Green E3 6c *  
90 Cloudberry Wall VS 5b 1
91 Cloudbusting E1 6a 1
92 Cave Groove VS 4b 1
93 Cave Rib E2 5b 1
94 Pulsation Crack
-
VS 4c  
95 Forenoon Groove
-
S 4b 1
96 Ding
-
HVS 4c 1
97 Dong VS 5c 1
98 A Walk with Whittaker E3 6a *  
99 Northern Ballet E3 5b ** 15
100 Green but Sure E1 5a * 12
101 Rail Trail f7A+ 1
  Sugar Loaf
103 Artificial Route f4+ * 139
104 Artificial Route Sit-start
-
f7B * 16
105 Green Wall f4 ** 53
106 Right Arête f5+ * 61
107 Way Down f3+ * 189
108 Local Wad f7A+ 5
109 Local Wad Sit-start f7B+ 2
110 Floofy One f7C 1
111 Jesus Christ Fenton, I've got Bleeding Tips! f7B 2
112 Angus f6B ** 56
113 Angus Sit-start f7B 10
114 Angus Right f6B * 15
115 Rib Left f5 * 37
116 Rib Right f3+ * 203
117 Left Arête f5+ ** 145
118 Left Arête Sit-start f7A * 25
119 Local Hero f6B+ ** 135
120 Local Hero Sit-start f7C+ 2
121 Baxter's Wall f6A+ * 61
122 Baxters Wall Direct f5+ * 61
123 Brush Electric f7C * 1
124 Sugar Loaf Girdle f6C *  
125 Chipless Hero f6C 8
  Sloping Top
127 Left Arête f5 * 55
128 Sloping Top Wall f5 34
129 Letterbox Slot f5+ * 203
130 Fat Slapper f6B+ ** 135
131 Fat Slapper Sit-start
-
f7A * 51
132 Slap Happy f6C+ ** 47
133 Slap Happy Low Start f7B+ 2
134 Slapstick f6C * 13
135 The Grey Road f7C *  
  Short Slab Boulder
137 Left Chips f3+ 78
138 Right Arête Sit-start f6B 22
139 Sloping Traverse
-
f6A 25
  Stream Boulder
141 Shallow Water f6A 32
142 Stream Slab f3 * 109
143 Stream Arête f4 * 80
144 Leather V0 1
145 Suede V6  
  Slab Boulder
147 Chipper f3 * 163
148 The Slab f4 * 130
  The Tank
150 The Descent V0- 119
151 Left Slab f4+ * 45
152 Diagonal Crack f3+ * 255
153 Tanked Up f3+ * 186
154 Chipper f4 ** 221
155 Moby Dick f5+ * 24
156 Enhancing Hero f6C ** 109
157 Enhancing Hero Sit-start
-
f7B * 4
158 Elephant's Bum f5 ** 304
159 Elephant's Bum Sit-start
-
f6C 6
160 Bum-Slide f6B * 8
161 Stateside f7B+ *** 8
162 Unclimbed Dyno
-
?  
163 Think Tank f6B * 131
164 Think Tank Extended f6C+ 27
165 Beginners' Slab f3 * 120
166 Elephant's Traverse f5+ 12
167 Advert f4+ 66
168 Fat Pinch
-
f6C * 34
Climb name Grade
169 Local boy f4+ * 1
  Shell Shot
171 Take Cover f7A+ * 9
172 Howitzer f6A * 2
173 Shell Shot f4 * 73
174 Shell Shock f3+ ** 88
175 The Cannon f6A * 27
  Groove Boulder
177 Groove f6B ** 20
178 Groove Traverse f7A+ 4
179 Handrail f5+ * 22
  The Scoop
181 Steve's Wall f7A+ ** 3
182 Scoop Left f5+ * 38
183 Scoop Centre f5+ * 27
184 The Scoop f3 ** 79
  The Whale
186 Pockets f5+ * 107
187 Whale Eliminate f6B+ * 1
188 Grit Style f6B ** 21
189 Whalebone f4 92
190 Whale Traverse f7B * 1
191 The Flake f3+ 8
192 Sam's Slopers
-
f7B *  
  Matterhorn
194 The Nipple f6A * 45
195 The Nipple Sit-start f6B+ 2
196 West's Route f5+ ** 60
197 Winsome f7A+ *** 16
198 Zmutt Ridge f5+ * 69
199 South Arête f3+ * 18
200 South Face Direct f5 * 33
201 South Face f3+ * 126
202 Eliminator f6A * 89
203 Hörnli Ridge f3 * 93
204 Forefinger Exercise V4 7
  Fish Boulder
206 You're Joking! f7B 29
207 Fish Groove f6B+ * 63
208 Fish Arête f7A *** 116
209 Fish Arete Sit-start
-
f7B+ *** 19
210 The Fish Slab f3 * 82
211 Fish Slab Central f4+ * 67
212 Fish Slab Right f5 * 45
213 The Coarse Traverse f7A ** 45
214 Not So Coarse f6A * 9
215 Dark Matter f7C *** 9
216 Fish Dish f6B * 71
217 Fish Dish Extended f6C+ 3
218 Fish Eye f4 * 32
219 Fish Traverse f7A ** 4
220 Sloping Shelf f6A+ 20
221 Grouper f6B 20
  Square Block
223 Square Arête f4+ 20
224 Square Arête Sit-start
-
V3 4
225 Groove f3 47
226 Grooves f3+ 17
227 Flaky Stepped Groove f3 30
228 Arch Enemy f7A * 1
229 Scoop Rockover f6B * 8
230 Scoop Mantel f5+ * 4
231 Cave Dweller f5+ 5
232 Cave Traverse f6A 1
  Salmon Boulder
234 Sushi V1 1
235 Cheap as Chips V1 * 2
236 Poached f3+ * 32
237 Smoked f4 * 25
238 Le Petit Tank f4+ * 24
239 Le Petit Tank Sit-start
-
f5 * 13
240 Raw f4+ 11
241 Leap f3+ 10
242 Leap Sit-start f6B * 7
  Top Slab
244 Peas of Mine f5 * 2
245 Sip in Side f4 ** 22
246 Pool Wall f4+ * 4
  Mole Boulder
248 Mole Arête f6A 2
249 Directissima f7B+ *** 4
250 Mr Mole f6C * 1
251 Mrs Mole f5 * 2

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