Wimberry is the best of the fine set of cliffs in the Chew Valley, the Cinderella of Peak grit, an unsung gem of a crag with a fantastic collection of routes on an impressive series of buttresses in a dramatic setting, and with superb outward views. The downside (there has to be one) is that the crag faces north and the approach is a bit of a flog. Choose your conditions carefully though and you will be rewarded; here is a superb set of arduous cracks and osme thrilling face climbs. The cracks in particular have always had a reputation for being sternly graded. The face climbs include some of the best and hardest in the peak, though they see a lot less attention than their smaller brethren on Burbage South. It has been said that if the cliff faced south, it would be regarded as one of the best gritstone cliffs in the country.
There is extensive parking (Pay and Display) below the huge dam that holds back the Dovestone Reservoir. A metalled road leads past the sailing club boathouse then at the bridge across Chew Brook, take the path rightwards into the trees. This passes through the bouldering area and then starts a steady flog up the side of the stream to reach the left-hand side of the cliff in about 30 mins from the car. The final ascent is a good test of stamina.
The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
Everything besides "Dark Matter" needs a good clean. Pretty damp and wet today too. John_Beesley - 01/Jan/19
Brilliant crag. Desperately needs so more traffic (or a good clean). Great climbs but felt spicy with so much lichen and dirt on the rock. CarlaJG - 01/May/17
Note to self: Check the wind reports before you go up! The sun was beating down and there was a stiff breeze in the car park... and a gale force 10 wind on top of the crag that made it unpleasant enough to call it quits after one route. skydivingbluecat - 03/May/07
Wimberry rocks is fantastic. A beautiful crag in a beautiful setting with excellent routes! Yes it can be green, but don't necessarily wait for a scorching summer's day to get up there. I'm tempted not to say all the above lest it's usual quietness be spoilt, but I feel I owe it to the crag to get more climbers up there. Also, the trek up there is an excellent warm up (Lazy gits!). AlistairJ - 17/Oct/06
I'd forgotten how grim the walk in is! On a hot summer day with a heavy pack on it is an unpleasant slog up the hillside :( Nick Smith - UKC - 12/Jun/06
Excellent bouldering to be had around the plantation area and underneath the crag. Neil - 03/Sep/05
Pure Moorland Gritstone..A Dark Peak crag to rival any gritstone crag in the High Peak; difference being that there ain't no crowds. Chew Valley the hidden gem! Phil Davies - 15/Feb/05
This is a brilliant crag - beautiful routes, great views. Don't be put off by the 30 mins walk in. It's amazing that a crag with so many 3-star routes has no polish - even on a classic HS! Nick Smith - 12/Jul/04