Climbs 36
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 694m a.s.l
Faces all

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Pen-y-ghent in late afternoon light © chris_j_s

Crag features

Pen-y-ghent is a fell in the Yorkshire Dales, England. It is the smallest of the Yorkshire Three Peaks at 2,277 feet (694m); the other two being Ingleborough and Whernside.

There has been a major rockfall at the crag and a significant lower proportion of the route 'Brass Monkey' HVS 5a has disintegrated. The routes either side have also been destabilised and the BMC advise caution if climbing on this remote and exposed crag.

Pen-y-ghent East is the big limestone crag facing south-east on the opposite flank of the mountain, first climbed by Pete Livesey in 1971 and then apparently ignored by the mainstream until a major clean up was started by Mark Radtke and friends in 2019. There are now four bolted lines but the cliff still has a big mountain feel to it and despite the bolts it is still a serious place with plenty of potential for rockfall. Helmets are strongly advised. The crag is in the sun until early afternoon..

Approach notes

Approach from Horton in Ribblesdale via Bracken Bottom or Dale Head, along the Pennine way.

For Pen-y-ghent East follow the Penine Way track from Dale Head to the start of the steep climb up to the summit of the mountain then contour rightwards on a vague sheep track for about 1 mile. The approach takes around 45 minutes.

If going up there, Gladiator is far far better than either of the Red Pencil routes.
SteveX - 20/Sep/14
Red Pencil Direct has NOT fallen down! Climbed it 31 may 2005 - all there, good condition. Some rubble nearby, but not from this route. Classic Rock ticking can continue!!
rob foster - 04/Jun/05
did red pencil direct on 02/04/05. not as loose as it's made out to be but is very green at the moment. watch out for a hollow flake in the first groove, dave
Dave Ayris - 03/Apr/05
climbed red pencil direct 15/8/04. lots of fallen rock near by. not sure how the top 30 foot of the climb are holding on.great route great location. do it soon.
steve - 19/Aug/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pen-y-ghent
2 Pen-y-ghent summit
-
summit 529
  Summer Climbs
4 21 Weeks Today MVS 4b **  
5 Little Mahia E2 5c ** 1
6 Ai Caramba! MVS 4b 1
7 Meddler's Crack
-
D 25
8 Agnostic's ArĂȘte Right-hand Variant
-
S 4
9 25 MVS 4c 1
10 Agnostic's ArĂȘte VS 5a ** 6
11 Red Pencil
-
S 4a *** 120
12 Red Pencil Direct
-
HS 4b *** 232
13 Gladiator
-
VS 4b *** 56
14 Damocles Groove HS 4b * 23
Climb name Grade
15 Brass Monkey HVS 5a * 16
16 Christian's Crux HVS 5a 8
17 Pagan's Purgatory VS 4c 7
18 Pitchfork Crack
-
HVS 5b * 5
19 Shepherds Chimney
-
D 19
20 Flying Buttress HS 4b 13
21 Thank You Harriet VS 4c 1
22 Nose Cracks
-
VD 14
  Winter Climbs
24 Tower Gap I 6
25 Main Gully I *** 8
26 Approach Field I 4
27 Main Gully Left * I * 1
28 Gentle Gully * I 1
Climb name Grade
  Pen-y-ghent Gill
30 Pen-y-ghent Gill 1 * 2
31 Little Ash S 4a 1
32 Traditional Route D * 2
33 Ash Tree Direct VD 1
34 Route 1 VD 2
  Pen-y-ghent Side
36 Right Hand Climb I/II 2
  Pen-y-ghent East
38 Ginger Girl E2 5c **  
39 The Pete Livesey Memorial Route 6c ** 1
40 A World in Crisis 6c ** 1
41 Bullshit and Lies 6b+ *  
42 Picture That 6b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer jbrom