UKC

Climbs 312
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 606m a.s.l
Faces N

Janna on Legacy (HVS 5a), Kinder North © Tim W

Crag features

The major Kinder outcrop. An impressive natural edge situated in a fine moorland setting high up on the edge of the plateau. Good quality rough rock with routes up to 20 long. A huge variety of climbs of all grades. Best visited during a hot summer, can be sandy. Look out for Misty Wall (S), anything on Legacy Buttress (HVS to E4), Exodus, Jester Cracks (both VS 4c) and The Twisted Smile (HVS 5a). For something more demanding try Candle in the Wind (E3 5c) and Natural Born Chillers (E6 6a).

Approach notes

From parking just south of The Snake Inn on the A57 Sheffield - Glossop road, a footpath leaves (SK 115904) a few 100m south of the Inn. Follow this alongside Fair Brook to the plateau (40 min). The first climbs are found left of the brook (Chinese Wall). Or if heading to the ashop edge area follow the shoulder of land just west of the brook which brings you to the top just east of Cabin Buttress.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
Peak District : Climbing (2008)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Brothers buttress is marked in the wrong place on the map on p.145 of WG. It's much further E - about where Eureka buttress is marked on the map.
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - 25/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Blackden Brook
2 Blackden Pinnacle
-
E1 5a  
3 Keith's Last Stand
-
S  
4 Moorland Fanatic
-
VS 5a  
5 Reach Impediment
-
HVS 5b  
6 Silent Wings
-
E1 5b **  
7 Futility
-
HVS 5a  
8 Senility HVS 5c  
9 Wings of Speed
-
VS 4c  
  Chinese Wall (left)
11 Socialist's Arete S 4a 5
12 Communist Route VD * 16
13 Common Right
-
E1 5b  
14 Nationalist Route HS 4b * 12
15 The Whistleblower
-
E2 5c  
16 The Terrorist E3 5c *  
17 Screamadelica
-
E2 5c  
18 Rickshaw Ridge VS 4b 2
19 Coolie's Chimney
-
VS 4c 1
20 Mandarin's Arete S 4a * 4
21 Carterwong
-
HVS 5b *  
22 Ancestor's Traverse
-
VD 3
23 Nose Skinner
-
VS 4c 1
24 Three Thousand Takeaways
-
HVS 5a  
25 Ooh Aah Cantona
-
VS 5b  
26 Canton Arete
-
VS 4c * 2
27 Cantoniuation
-
HS 4b *  
28 Sparkle in the China
-
E4 6b *  
29 Hong Kong Chimney
-
VD 1
30 Hong Kong Arete
-
HVS 5b  
31 The Beijing Pillar
-
VS 4c  
32 Try a Little
-
S 4b  
33 Tenderness
-
VS 4b  
34 Passe
-
HVS 5a * 1
35 Bobby Gillespie
-
E1 5b  
36 Malaise
-
VS 4c * 2
37 Two Sixty-nines Please
-
HVS 5b *  
38 Mad Day Climb
-
S 4a  
39 Narrow Chimney
-
VD  
40 Good Vibrations
-
HVS 5c  
41 Quo Vadis
-
HVS 5b * 1
42 Phosphorescence
-
S 4a  
43 Paddy Fields Forever
-
E2 5b  
  Chinese Wall (right)
45 Rough 'n Ready
-
HS 4b 1
46 Nice 'n' Steady
-
HVS 5a  
47 Changed by Books
-
E3 5c *  
48 Barton Fink
-
E4 5c *  
49 The Shock of the New
-
E7 6c ** 2
50 Book of Changes
-
E4 6b *  
51 Surprise
-
S 4a 1
52 Wakey Wakey Glossop
-
E3 6b *  
53 Corner Crack
-
HS 4b 1
54 Tryphon
-
VS 4c * 3
55 Necrosis
-
VS 5a ** 1
56 Pound of Flesh E5 6a *** 2
57 Kitty on a Plane E6 6b **  
58 Give it Some Rice Man
-
E3 5c *  
59 Showbiz Sherbert
-
E2 5b  
60 Silicosis
-
S 4a  
  Misty Wall
62 The Reach
-
VS 5b  
63 The Chimney S 3
64 The Arete HVS 5a 1
65 Hangle Face
-
VS 5a  
66 Hangle Crack VS 4c 1
67 Pavlova
-
HS 1
68 Magic Wall
-
VS 4c * 3
69 Magic Wall Direct
-
VS 5a  
70 Magic Wall Superdirect
-
HVS 5c  
71 Magic Carpet
-
HS 4b *  
72 Cloudy Wall
-
S 4a * 5
73 The Wand
-
S 4a  
74 Vendenis
-
VD 5
75 Pieces of Eight S 4a 10
76 Doubloon VS 4b 4
77 Stampede E2 5b  
78 Round Up E1 5b * 6
79 Misty Wall VS 4b *** 98
80 Wind Wall VS 4c * 9
81 Zyphyr E2 6a *  
82 Bean Feast
-
VS 4c  
83 Deviation HVD 9
84 Fixation D * 11
85 Cassandra E2 5c * 2
86 Trojan E1 5b ** 5
87 Meander HS 5a * 2
88 Meander Arete HVS 5a * 3
89 Dependence Wall HS 4b 5
90 Dependence Arete VS 4c * 6
91 John Henry's Variation
-
HS 4b 4
92 Means Test
-
HVS 5b  
  Perseverance Wall
94 Head Music
-
VS 4b  
95 Jogroans
-
S 4a 6
96 Jubilation
-
S 4a 2
97 Maragonna
-
HVS 5b 3
98 Mob Rule
-
VS 5a * 2
99 G.P. Arete
-
S 4a 10
  Fortress Wall
101 Hoedown
-
VD 2
102 Sweet William
-
HVD * 5
103 The Two-Eyed Sloper HS 4b  
104 Lamb Chop
-
VS 4c  
105 Hosanna
-
HVS 5a  
106 Pork Chop
-
HVS 5a *  
  Tiny Buttress
108 Boromir
-
VS 5a  
109 Petite
-
VS 4c  
110 The Small Arete
-
HVD 1
  Egg Crag
112 Way Out
-
S  
113 Scrambled Egg
-
HS 4b 1
114 Perseverance
-
HS 4b  
115 Gollum
-
S 4a  
Climb name Grade
116 The Dedicated Follower of Fashion
-
E3 5c *  
117 Balrog
-
VS 5a *  
118 Short Crack
-
VS 5a  
  Next Buttress
120 Bag End S 4b * 2
121 Gaberdine Angus
-
HVS 5a *  
122 Bombadillo
-
HS 4b  
123 Hobbit's Walk VD 3
124 Mantis Crack
-
S 2
125 Scorpion Chimney
-
HS 4b  
126 Sugar Blue
-
HVD  
  First Buttress
128 Black Widow
-
HS 4b  
129 Fond of Arachnids
-
HS 4b  
130 Tarantula Crack VS 4c * 3
131 Flycatcher E1 5b ** 1
132 Virtuoso S 1
133 Made Up
-
S 4a  
134 Flog Up
-
S 4b  
135 Slabove VD 1
136 Crabove HS 1
137 S Route
-
S  
138 Sunday Stroll
-
S 4a  
  Moon Buttress
140 Tin Planet
-
S 4b  
141 Jason and the Juggernauts S * 1
142 Moon Rib
-
VS 4c *  
143 The Harem Globetrotters
-
HVS 5a *  
144 Crescendo
-
HVS 5b  
145 Baby Kate
-
VS 5b  
  ******ASHOP EDGE******
  Cabin Buttresses
148 Quandry
-
S 4a  
149 Lost Opportunity
-
E1 5c  
150 Snake Crack
-
S 4b  
151 Hanging Chimney HVD 2
152 Pneumoconiosis
-
VS 4c  
153 Slinky Minky
-
E4 6b  
154 Brains Missing
-
E3 5c  
155 Hermaphrodite E3 5c **  
156 Little Chimney
-
HVD 1
157 Twice Blessed
-
S 4a  
158 Cavern Climb HVD  
159 Jactation Climb
-
HVS 5a 1
160 Scooped Wall
-
VS 4b  
161 The Merchant
-
VS 5a  
162 East Chimney
-
D 1
163 Backtrack
-
HVS 5a  
164 Cowtrack
-
VS 5a  
165 Ivetti
-
VD  
166 George's Crack
-
HS 4b  
167 Downes' Route
-
HVD  
168 Grease Crack
-
VS 4c  
169 Mole Soup
-
E1 5b  
170 Blood Cracks
-
VS 4c  
171 Shylock
-
VS 4c *  
172 Grand Canal
-
HVD  
173 Red Tent Weekend
-
VS 4c  
174 Let the Red Cock Crow
-
E1 5b  
175 Red Arrow Arete
-
HVS 4c  
  Ashop Crack Buttress
177 Ashop Corner Climb HS 4b 1
178 Roman Roads VS 5a * 2
179 Ashop Crack E2 5b *** 18
180 Ashop Climb HVD ** 44
181 Orgasmo E2 5b *  
182 Sid's Population Paste
-
E2 5c *  
183 Eureka VS 4c *** 66
184 Axilla The Pun
-
E3 6a  
185 Ure VS 4b  
186 Toppleover
-
S 4b  
187 Twister HVD * 2
188 Britt's Cleavage E1 5b ** 2
189 Trial Balance HVS 5b *  
190 Eye for a Line HS 4b 1
  Renegade Block
192 Njal's Crack
-
HS 4b  
193 Gray's Climb
-
HVS 5a  
194 Thirty Six Hours in the Mystery Chair
-
HVS 5b  
195 Talcum Crack
-
HS 4b  
196 Bernie Crack
-
S 4a  
  Big Brother Buttress
198 Tin Tin Wall HS 4b 5
199 Barbara VD * 20
200 Jelly Baby Slab VS 4c 2
201 Sliding Chimney S 4a  
202 Spacerunner E4 6a *  
203 Legacy HVS 5a *** 139
204 Intestate E1 5b *** 62
205 Big Brother E2 5c *** 25
206 Kinsman E4 6b * 1
207 Brother's Eliminate E1 5b ** 6
208 Squatter's Rights E4 6b  
209 Little Boy Blue E1 6a * 1
210 Blue Jade E3 6a  
211 Dirty Trick S 4b 1
212 Big Traverse VS 4b ** 6
  Little Brother Buttress
214 Round Chimney VD 2
215 Razor Crack S 4a * 26
216 The Les Dawson Show E3 5c * 13
217 Growth Centre E4 6b *  
218 Dunsinane VS 4b ** 65
219 The Savage Breast E1 5b * 9
220 Not so happy Larry's gearbox E2 5c/6a * 1
221 Motherless Children E1 5c * 4
222 Pot Belly E2 5c * 3
223 Tum Tum HVS 5b 1
224 Dunsinane VS 4c **  
  Round Stones
226 Lobster Crack VS 5a * 3
227 Crab Crack HVS 5b * 1
  Suave Blocks
  Black Overhangs
230 Tambourine
-
VD 2
Climb name Grade
231 Wellington Slab
-
S 4a * 3
232 Scooper Dooper
-
VD ** 4
233 Not Tonight Josephine
-
E1 5c *  
234 Back Hammer
-
HS 4b  
235 Boston Crab
-
VS 5a *  
236 Three Falls
-
E4 6a *  
237 Submission
-
E2 5b *  
238 Per Ardua
-
VS 5a **  
239 Swinging in the Gallery
-
E2 5c *  
240 Whit Walk
-
VD * 1
241 Good Morning Sheffield
-
E4 5c *  
242 The Mad Gardener
-
E1 5c  
243 Downbyne
-
HS 4b * 1
244 Cinder Crack
-
VS 4c  
245 The Kinder Caper
-
VS 4c  
  Mustard Walls
247 Banjo Crack S 4a 1
248 Daddy Crack HVS 5a * 7
249 Mummy Crack E1 5b * 5
250 Totally Spastic
-
E6 6c *  
251 Wicked Uncle Ernie E4 6a *  
252 Campus Chimney VD 4
253 Mustard Walls E2 5c ** 15
254 Machine Gun Chimney HD 3
255 The Scratcher VS 4c *  
256 Toledo Wall
-
VS 4b *  
257 Wire Brush Slab E2 5b ** 4
258 Tweeter and the Monkey Man E3 6a ** 2
259 Knapp Hand HS 4b 3
260 The Slice HS 4b *  
261 Exodus VS 4c * 4
262 Highball That You Bastards! E7 6b *** 1
263 Machine Gun VD  
264 Glock Over E4 6c  
265 Two Twist Chimney S 4b  
266 Penniless Crack S 4b  
  Jester Buttress
268 Jester Cracks HVS 5a *** 65
269 Monkey Madness E6 6c *** 1
270 Candle in the Wind E3 5c ** 8
271 Twisted Smile HVS 5a *** 71
272 Count Dracula E1 5b * 2
273 Woe is Me S 4a 2
274 Harlequin E3 6a * 2
  Transport Buttress
276 Bow Wall E1 5b  
277 Tramline Cracks VS 4c * 1
278 Depot Chimney VD *  
  Nameless Clough Buttress
280 Punch's Nose HVS 5a ** 2
281 Crayon Angel * f7A 1
  Bookcase Buttress
283 Act of Faith E4 6b *  
284 Pan Crack E1 5b  
285 Corinthians HS 4c  
286 Eve HVS 5b *  
287 Adam's Apple S 4b * 4
288 Pulpit Chimney D  
289 Noah's Pair D 7
290 Apostle's Wall HVS 5b * 7
291 Mark's Slab VS 4c  
292 Matthew HVS 5a *  
  The Quadrinnicle
294 Zebra E5 6b *  
295 Mark HS 4b 4
296 Luke E1 5b * 2
297 Seven Deadly Skins E4 6c *  
298 John VS 5a 1
299 Deborah E4 6a **  
  Dead Chimney Buttress
301 Fast Hands E3 5c  
302 Honeymoon Route HVD 2
303 Kasebrot
-
HS 4b  
304 Socialist's Variation
-
VS 5a 2
305 Parliamentary Climb HVS 5a *  
306 Dead Chimney VS 1
307 Natural Born Chillers E6 6a ** 1
308 The Grey Slayer E4 5c *  
  The Boxing Gloves
310 Chariots Of Ire f7A+ *** 2
311 Float Like A Butterfly * f7A+ 2
  Scrambles
313 Fairbrook 1 7
314 Fairbrook Gully 1 * 4
315 Nether Red Brook 1 * 22
316 Nether Red Brook Alternative Finish 2 2 * 8
317 Nether Red Brook Alternative Finish 1 3 * 2
318 Upper Red Brook 1 9
319 Far Upper Red Brook 1 2
320 Blackden Brook 1 7
321 Blackden Brook Left Hand 1 3
  Winter Climbs
323 Fair Brook I 5
324 Fairbrook Gully I 2
325 Nether Red Brook
-
I 8
326 Nether Red Brook - Lower right Branch
-
III 3
327 Nether Red Brook - Upper right Branch
-
I/II 2
328 Upper Red Brook I/II 4
329 Far Upper Red Brook I 1
330 Blackden Brook
-
I 3
331 Blackden Brook Left Hand I * 2
332 Gate Side Clough II 1
  Unknown Location
334 Dizzy Gillespie * E5 6a  
  To Be Verified
336 Launch * f7A 1
337 Chicken and Mushroom Scoop * f7A  
338 Stamina of a Seal * f6C 1
339 Bob's Arete * f6C 1
340 Bob's Left * f6B+ 1
341 Big Pockets * f4+ 1
342 The Wanderer * f6A 1
343 Wanderer Direct * f6B 1
344 Rosie On My Chest * f6B+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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