Climbs 317
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 606m a.s.l
Faces N

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Janna on Legacy (HVS 5a), Kinder North © Tim W

Crag features

The major Kinder outcrop. An impressive natural edge situated in a fine moorland setting high up on the edge of the plateau. Good quality rough rock with routes up to 20 long. A huge variety of climbs of all grades. Best visited during a hot summer, can be sandy. Look out for Misty Wall (S), anything on Legacy Buttress (HVS to E4), Exodus, Jester Cracks (both VS 4c) and The Twisted Smile (HVS 5a). For something more demanding try Candle in the Wind (E3 5c) and Natural Born Chillers (E6 6a).

Approach notes

From parking just south of The Snake Inn on the A57 Sheffield - Glossop road, a footpath leaves (SK 115904) a few 100m south of the Inn. Follow this alongside Fair Brook to the plateau (40 min). The first climbs are found left of the brook (Chinese Wall). Or if heading to the ashop edge area follow the shoulder of land just west of the brook which brings you to the top just east of Cabin Buttress.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
Peak District : Climbing (2008)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Brothers buttress is marked in the wrong place on the map on p.145 of WG. It's much further E - about where Eureka buttress is marked on the map.
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - 25/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Blackden Brook
2 Blackden Pinnacle
-
E1 5a  
3 Keith's Last Stand
-
S  
4 Moorland Fanatic
-
VS 5a  
5 Reach Impediment
-
HVS 5b  
6 Silent Wings
-
E1 5b **  
7 Futility
-
HVS 5a  
8 Senility HVS 5c  
9 Wings of Speed
-
VS 4c  
  Chinese Wall (left)
11 Socialist's Arete S 4a 8
12 Communist Route VD * 23
13 Common Right
-
E1 5b  
14 Nationalist Route HS 4b * 16
15 The Whistleblower
-
E2 5c  
16 The Terrorist E3 5c *  
17 Screamadelica
-
E2 5c  
18 Rickshaw Ridge VS 4b 3
19 Coolie's Chimney
-
VS 4c 2
20 Mandarin's Arete S 4a * 4
21 Carterwong
-
HVS 5b *  
22 Ancestor's Traverse
-
VD 5
23 Nose Skinner
-
VS 4c 1
24 Three Thousand Takeaways
-
HVS 5a  
25 Ooh Aah Cantona
-
VS 5b  
26 Canton Arete
-
VS 4c * 4
27 Cantoniuation
-
HS 4b *  
28 Sparkle in the China
-
E4 6b *  
29 Hong Kong Chimney
-
VD 1
30 Hong Kong Arete
-
HVS 5b  
31 The Beijing Pillar
-
VS 4c  
32 Try a Little
-
S 4b  
33 Tenderness
-
VS 4b  
34 Passe
-
HVS 5a * 1
35 Bobby Gillespie
-
E1 5b 1
36 Malaise
-
VS 4c * 2
37 Two Sixty-nines Please
-
HVS 5b *  
38 Mad Day Climb
-
S 4a 1
39 Narrow Chimney
-
VD  
40 Good Vibrations
-
HVS 5c  
41 Quo Vadis
-
HVS 5b * 1
42 Phosphorescence
-
S 4a  
43 Paddy Fields Forever
-
E2 5b  
  Chinese Wall (right)
45 Rough 'n Ready
-
HS 4b 1
46 Nice 'n' Steady
-
HVS 5a  
47 Changed by Books
-
E3 5c *  
48 Barton Fink
-
E4 5c *  
49 The Shock of the New
-
E7 6c ** 3
50 Book of Changes
-
E4 6b *  
51 Surprise
-
S 4a 1
52 Wakey Wakey Glossop
-
E3 6b *  
53 Corner Crack
-
HS 4b 2
54 Tryphon
-
VS 4c * 5
55 Necrosis
-
VS 5a ** 1
56 Pound of Flesh E5 6a *** 3
57 Kitty on a Plane E6 6b **  
58 Give it Some Rice Man
-
E3 5c *  
59 Showbiz Sherbert
-
E2 5b  
60 Silicosis
-
S 4a  
  Misty Wall
62 The Reach
-
VS 5b  
63 The Chimney S 3
64 The Arete HVS 5a 1
65 Hangle Face
-
VS 5a  
66 Hangle Crack VS 4c 1
67 Pavlova
-
HS 1
68 Magic Wall
-
VS 4c * 5
69 Magic Wall Direct
-
VS 5a  
70 Magic Wall Superdirect
-
HVS 5c  
71 Magic Carpet
-
HS 4b *  
72 Cloudy Wall
-
S 4a * 5
73 The Wand
-
S 4a  
74 Vendenis
-
VD 5
75 Pieces of Eight S 4a 11
76 Doubloon VS 4b 4
77 Stampede E2 5b  
78 Round Up E1 5b * 6
79 Misty Wall VS 4b *** 123
80 Wind Wall VS 4c * 9
81 Zyphyr E2 6a *  
82 Bean Feast
-
VS 4c  
83 Deviation HVD 11
84 Fixation D * 13
85 Cassandra E2 5c * 2
86 Trojan E1 5b ** 6
87 Meander HS 5a * 4
88 Meander Arete HVS 5a * 3
89 Dependence Wall HS 4b 5
90 Dependence Arete VS 4c * 7
91 John Henry's Variation
-
HS 4b 5
92 Means Test
-
HVS 5b  
93 John Henry's Variation Direct Start * S 1
  Perseverance Wall
95 Head Music
-
VS 4b  
96 Jogroans
-
S 4a 7
97 Jubilation
-
S 4a 3
98 Maragonna
-
HVS 5b 3
99 Mob Rule
-
VS 5a * 4
100 G.P. Arete
-
S 4a 12
  Fortress Wall
102 Hoedown
-
VD 3
103 Sweet William
-
HVD * 7
104 The Two-Eyed Sloper HS 4b  
105 Lamb Chop
-
VS 4c 1
106 Hosanna
-
HVS 5a  
107 Pork Chop
-
HVS 5a *  
  Tiny Buttress
109 Boromir
-
VS 5a  
110 Petite
-
VS 4c  
111 The Small Arete
-
HVD 1
  Egg Crag
113 Way Out
-
S  
114 Scrambled Egg
-
HS 4b 1
115 Perseverance
-
HS 4b  
116 Gollum
-
S 4a  
117 The Dedicated Follower of Fashion
-
E3 5c *  
Climb name Grade
118 Balrog
-
VS 5a *  
119 Short Crack
-
VS 5a  
  Next Buttress
121 Bag End S 4b * 3
122 Gaberdine Angus
-
HVS 5a * 2
123 Bombadillo
-
HS 4b  
124 Hobbit's Walk VD 3
125 Mantis Crack
-
S 2
126 Scorpion Chimney
-
HS 4b  
127 Sugar Blue
-
HVD  
  First Buttress
129 Black Widow
-
HS 4b  
130 Fond of Arachnids
-
HS 4b  
131 Tarantula Crack VS 4c * 3
132 Flycatcher E1 5b ** 3
133 Virtuoso S 1
134 Made Up
-
S 4a  
135 Flog Up
-
S 4b 1
136 Slabove VD 1
137 Crabove HS 1
138 S Route
-
S  
139 Sunday Stroll
-
S 4a  
  Moon Buttress
141 Tin Planet
-
S 4b  
142 Jason and the Juggernauts S * 3
143 Moon Rib
-
VS 4c *  
144 The Harem Globetrotters
-
HVS 5a *  
145 Crescendo
-
HVS 5b  
146 Baby Kate
-
VS 5b  
  ******ASHOP EDGE******
  Cabin Buttresses
149 Quandry
-
S 4a  
150 Lost Opportunity
-
E1 5c  
151 Snake Crack
-
S 4b  
152 Hanging Chimney HVD 3
153 Pneumoconiosis
-
VS 4c  
154 Slinky Minky
-
E4 6b  
155 Brains Missing
-
E3 5c  
156 Hermaphrodite E3 5c **  
157 Little Chimney
-
HVD 1
158 Twice Blessed
-
S 4a  
159 Cavern Climb HVD  
160 Jactation Climb
-
HVS 5a 1
161 Scooped Wall
-
VS 4b  
162 The Merchant
-
VS 5a  
163 East Chimney
-
D 1
164 Backtrack
-
HVS 5a  
165 Cowtrack
-
VS 5a  
166 Ivetti
-
VD  
167 George's Crack
-
HS 4b  
168 Downes' Route
-
HVD  
169 Grease Crack
-
VS 4c  
170 Mole Soup
-
E1 5b  
171 Blood Cracks
-
VS 4c  
172 Shylock
-
VS 4c *  
173 Grand Canal
-
HVD  
174 Red Tent Weekend
-
VS 4c  
175 Let the Red Cock Crow
-
E1 5b  
176 Red Arrow Arete
-
HVS 4c  
  Ashop Crack Buttress
178 Ashop Corner Climb HS 4b 1
179 Roman Roads VS 5a * 4
180 Ashop Crack E2 5b *** 26
181 Ashop Climb HVD ** 54
182 Orgasmo E2 5b *  
183 Sid's Population Paste
-
E2 5c *  
184 Eureka VS 4c *** 90
185 Axilla The Pun
-
E3 6a  
186 Ure VS 4b  
187 Toppleover
-
S 4b  
188 Twister HVD * 2
189 Britt's Cleavage E1 5b ** 2
190 Trial Balance HVS 5b *  
191 Eye for a Line HS 4b 1
  Renegade Block
193 Njal's Crack
-
HS 4b  
194 Gray's Climb
-
HVS 5a  
195 Thirty Six Hours in the Mystery Chair
-
HVS 5b  
196 Talcum Crack
-
HS 4b  
197 Bernie Crack
-
S 4a  
  Big Brother Buttress
199 Tin Tin Wall HS 4b 5
200 Barbara VD * 24
201 Jelly Baby Slab VS 4c 2
202 Sliding Chimney S 4a  
203 Spacerunner E4 6a *  
204 Legacy HVS 5a *** 179
205 Intestate E1 5b *** 75
206 Big Brother E2 5c *** 29
207 Kinsman E4 6b * 1
208 Brother's Eliminate E1 5b ** 11
209 Squatter's Rights E4 6b  
210 Little Boy Blue E1 6a * 1
211 Blue Jade E3 6a  
212 Dirty Trick S 4b 1
213 Big Traverse VS 4b ** 6
  Little Brother Buttress
215 Round Chimney VD 3
216 Razor Crack S 4a * 36
217 The Les Dawson Show E3 5c * 17
218 Growth Centre E4 6b *  
219 Dunsinane VS 4b ** 81
220 The Savage Breast E1 5b * 11
221 Not so happy Larry's gearbox E2 5c/6a * 1
222 Motherless Children E1 5c * 4
223 Pot Belly E2 5c * 4
224 Tum Tum HVS 5b 1
225 Dunsinane VS 4c ** 4
  Round Stones
227 Lobster Crack VS 5a * 3
228 Crab Crack HVS 5b * 1
  Suave Blocks
  Black Overhangs
231 Tambourine
-
VD 2
232 Wellington Slab
-
S 4a * 3
233 Scooper Dooper
-
VD ** 5
234 Not Tonight Josephine
-
E1 5c *  
Climb name Grade
235 Back Hammer
-
HS 4b  
236 Boston Crab
-
VS 5a *  
237 Three Falls
-
E4 6a *  
238 Submission
-
E2 5b *  
239 Per Ardua
-
VS 5a **  
240 Swinging in the Gallery
-
E2 5c *  
241 Whit Walk
-
VD * 1
242 Good Morning Sheffield
-
E4 5c *  
243 The Mad Gardener
-
E1 5c  
244 Downbyne
-
HS 4b * 1
245 Cinder Crack
-
VS 4c  
246 The Kinder Caper
-
VS 4c  
  Mustard Walls
248 Banjo Crack S 4a 1
249 Daddy Crack HVS 5a * 11
250 Mummy Crack E1 5b * 6
251 Totally Spastic
-
E6 6c *  
252 Wicked Uncle Ernie E4 6a *  
253 Campus Chimney VD 4
254 Mustard Walls E2 5c ** 18
255 Machine Gun Chimney HD 3
256 The Scratcher VS 4c *  
257 Toledo Wall
-
VS 4b *  
258 Wire Brush Slab E2 5b ** 4
259 Tweeter and the Monkey Man E3 6a ** 2
260 Knapp Hand HS 4b 3
261 The Slice HS 4b *  
262 Exodus VS 4c * 4
263 Highball That You Bastards! E7 6b *** 2
264 Machine Gun VD  
265 Glock Over E4 6c  
266 Two Twist Chimney S 4b  
267 Penniless Crack S 4b  
  Jester Buttress
269 Jester Cracks HVS 5a *** 78
270 Monkey Madness E6 6c *** 1
271 Candle in the Wind E3 5c ** 8
272 Twisted Smile HVS 5a *** 79
273 Count Dracula E1 5b * 2
274 Woe is Me S 4a 2
275 Harlequin E3 6a * 2
  Transport Buttress
277 Bow Wall E1 5b  
278 Tramline Cracks VS 4c * 1
279 Depot Chimney VD *  
  Nameless Clough Buttress
281 Punch's Nose HVS 5a ** 2
282 Crayon Angel * f7A 1
  Bookcase Buttress
284 Act of Faith E4 6b *  
285 Pan Crack E1 5b  
286 Corinthians HS 4c  
287 Eve HVS 5b *  
288 Adam's Apple S 4b * 4
289 Pulpit Chimney D  
290 Noah's Pair D 7
291 Apostle's Wall HVS 5b * 7
292 Mark's Slab VS 4c  
293 Matthew HVS 5a *  
  The Quadrinnicle
295 Zebra E5 6b *  
296 Mark HS 4b 4
297 Luke E1 5b * 2
298 Seven Deadly Skins E4 6c *  
299 John VS 5a 1
300 Deborah E4 6a **  
  Dead Chimney Buttress
302 Fast Hands E3 5c  
303 Honeymoon Route HVD 2
304 Kasebrot
-
HS 4b  
305 Socialist's Variation
-
VS 5a 2
306 Parliamentary Climb HVS 5a *  
307 Dead Chimney VS 1
308 Natural Born Chillers E6 6a ** 1
309 The Grey Slayer E4 5c *  
  The Boxing Gloves
311 Chariots Of Ire f7A+ *** 2
312 Float Like A Butterfly * f7A+ 2
  Scrambles
314 Fairbrook 1 13
315 Fairbrook Gully 1 * 6
316 Nether Red Brook 1 * 36
317 Nether Red Brook Alternative Finish 2 2 * 11
318 Nether Red Brook Alternative Finish 1 3 * 5
319 Upper Red Brook 1 13
320 Far Upper Red Brook 1 3
321 Blackden Brook 1 15
322 Blackden Brook Left Hand 1 9
323 Urchin Clough * 1 4
324 Gate Side Clough * 1 3
325 Stile Clough * 2 4
  Winter Climbs
327 Fair Brook I 5
328 Fairbrook Gully I 2
329 Nether Red Brook
-
I 9
330 Nether Red Brook - Lower right Branch
-
III 3
331 Nether Red Brook - Upper right Branch
-
I/II 2
332 Upper Red Brook I/II 4
333 Far Upper Red Brook I 1
334 Blackden Brook
-
I 3
335 Blackden Brook Left Hand I * 2
336 Gate Side Clough II 1
  Unknown Location
338 Dizzy Gillespie * E5 6a  
  To Be Verified
340 Launch * f7A 1
341 Chicken and Mushroom Scoop * f7A  
342 Stamina of a Seal * f6C 1
343 Bob's Arete * f6C 1
344 Bob's Left * f6B+ 1
345 Big Pockets * f4+ 1
346 The Wanderer * f6A 1
347 Wanderer Direct * f6B 1
348 Rosie On My Chest * f6B+ 1
349 Stile Clough * I/II 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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