Climbs 304
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 606m a.s.l
Faces N

Janna on Legacy (HVS 5a), Kinder North © Tim W

Crag features

The major Kinder outcrop. An impressive natural edge situated in a fine moorland setting high up on the edge of the plateau. Good quality rough rock with routes up to 20 long. A huge variety of climbs of all grades. Best visited during a hot summer, can be sandy. Look out for Misty Wall (S), anything on Legacy Buttress (HVS to E4), Exodus, Jester Cracks (both VS 4c) and The Twisted Smile (HVS 5a). For something more demanding try Candle in the Wind (E3 5c) and Natural Born Chillers (E6 6a).

Approach notes

From parking just south of The Snake Inn on the A57 Sheffield - Glossop road, a footpath leaves (SK 115904) a few 100m south of the Inn. Follow this alongside Fair Brook to the plateau (40 min). The first climbs are found left of the brook (Chinese Wall). Or if heading to the ashop edge area follow the shoulder of land just west of the brook which brings you to the top just east of Cabin Buttress.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Over the Moors (2012)
Peak District : Climbing (2008)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Peak Climbs - Kinder and Bleaklow (1990)

Out of print:
Brothers buttress is marked in the wrong place on the map on p.145 of WG. It's much further E - about where Eureka buttress is marked on the map.
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - 25/Jul/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Blackden Brook
2 Blackden Pinnacle
-
E1 5a  
3 Keith's Last Stand
-
S  
4 Moorland Fanatic
-
VS 5a  
5 Reach Impediment
-
HVS 5b  
6 Silent Wings
-
E1 5b **  
7 Futility
-
HVS 5a  
8 Senility HVS 5c  
9 Wings of Speed
-
VS 4c  
  Chinese Wall (left)
11 Socialist's Arete HVD 5
12 Communist Route VD * 16
13 Common Right
-
E1 5b  
14 Nationalist Route HS 4b * 12
15 The Whistleblower
-
E2 5c  
16 The Terrorist E3 5c **  
17 Screamadelica
-
E2 5c  
18 Rickshaw Ridge VS 4c 2
19 Coolie's Chimney VS 4c 1
20 Mandarin's Arete VD 4
21 Carterwong
-
HVS 5b *  
22 Ancestor's Traverse VD 3
23 Nose Skinner VS 4c 1
24 Three Thousand Takeaways HVS 5a  
25 Ooh Aah Cantona
-
VS 5b  
26 Canton Arete VS 4c * 2
27 Cantoniuation HS 4b *  
28 Sparkle in the China E4 6b *  
29 Hong Kong Chimney VD 1
30 Hong Kong Arete
-
HVS 5b  
31 The Beijing Pillar
-
VS 4c  
32 Try a Little
-
S 4b  
33 Tenderness VS 4b  
34 Passe HVS 5a * 1
35 Bobby Gillespie
-
E1 5b  
36 Malaise VS 4c * 2
37 Two Sixty-nines Please HVS 5b *  
38 Mad Day Climb S 4a  
39 Narrow Chimney VD  
40 Good Vibrations HVS 5c  
41 Quo Vadis HVS 5b * 1
42 Phosphorescence S 4a  
43 Paddy Fields Forever
-
E2 5b  
  Chinese Wall (right)
45 Rough 'n Ready HS 4b 1
46 Nice 'n' Steady
-
HVS 5a  
47 Changed by Books
-
E3 5c *  
48 Barton Fink E4 5c *  
49 The Shock of the New E7 6c ** 2
50 Book of Changes E4 6b *  
51 Surprise S 4a 1
52 Wakey Wakey Glossop E3 6b *  
53 Corner Crack HS 4b 1
54 Tryphon VS 4c * 3
55 Necrosis VS 5a ** 1
56 Pound of Flesh E5 6a *** 2
57 Kitty on a Plane E6 6b **  
58 Give it Some Rice Man
-
E3 5c *  
59 Showbiz Sherbert
-
E2 5b  
60 Silicosis S 4a  
  Misty Wall
62 The Reach
-
VS 5b  
63 The Chimney S 3
64 The Arete HVS 5a 1
65 Hangle Face
-
VS 5a  
66 Hangle Crack VS 4c 1
67 Pavlova
-
HS 1
68 Magic Wall VS 4c * 3
69 Magic Wall Direct VS 5a  
70 Magic Wall Superdirect
-
HVS 5c  
71 Magic Carpet HS 4b *  
72 Cloudy Wall S 4a * 5
73 The Wand S 4a  
74 Vendenis VD 5
75 Pieces of Eight S 4a 10
76 Doubloon VS 4b 4
77 Stampede E2 5b *  
78 Round Up E1 5b * 6
79 Misty Wall VS 4b *** 120
80 Wind Wall VS 4c * 9
81 Zypher E2 6a *  
82 Bean Feast
-
VS 4c  
83 Deviation VD 9
84 Fixation D * 11
85 Cassandra E2 5c * 2
86 Trojan E1 5b * 5
87 Meander HS 5a * 2
88 Meander Arete VS 5a * 3
89 Dependence Wall S 4a 5
90 Dependence Arete VS 4b * 6
91 John Henry's Variation
-
HS 4b 4
92 Means Test
-
HVS 5b  
  Perseverance Wall
94 Head Music
-
VS 4b  
95 Jogroans S 4a 6
96 Jubilation S 4a 2
97 Maragonna HVS 5b 3
98 Mob Rule VS 5a * 2
99 G.P. Arete S 4a 10
  Fortress Wall
101 Hoedown VD 2
102 Sweet William HVD * 5
103 The Two-Eyed Sloper HS 4b  
104 Lamb Chop VS 4c  
105 Hosanna HVS 5a  
106 Pork Chop HVS 5a *  
  Tiny Buttress
108 Boromir
-
VS 5a  
109 Petite
-
VS 4c  
110 The Small Arete
-
HVD 1
  Egg Crag
112 Way Out S  
113 Scrambled Egg HS 4b 1
114 Perseverance HS 4b  
115 Gollum S 4a  
116 The Dedicated Follower of Fashion E3 5c *  
117 Balrog VS 5a *  
118 Short Crack VS 5a  
  Next Buttress
120 Bag End S 4b * 2
121 Gaberdine Angus
-
HVS 5a *  
122 Bombadillo
-
HS 4b  
123 Hobbit's Walk VD 3
124 Mantis Crack
-
S 2
125 Scorpion Chimney
-
HS 4b  
126 Sugar Blue
-
HVD  
  First Buttress
128 Black Widow
-
HS 4b  
129 Fond of Arachnids
-
HS 4b  
130 Tarantula Crack VS 4c * 3
131 Flycatcher E1 5b ** 1
132 Virtuoso S 1
133 Made Up
-
S 4a  
134 Flog Up
-
S 4b  
135 Slabove VD 1
136 Crabove HS 1
137 S Route
-
S  
138 Sunday Stroll
-
S 4a  
  Moon Buttress
140 Tin Planet
-
S 4b  
141 Jason and the Juggernauts S * 1
142 Moon Rib
-
VS 4c *  
143 The Harem Globetrotters
-
HVS 5a *  
144 Crescendo
-
HVS 5b  
145 Baby Kate
-
VS 5b  
  ******ASHOP EDGE******
  Cabin Buttresses
148 Quandry
-
S 4a  
149 Lost Opportunity
-
E1 5c  
150 Snake Crack
-
S 4b  
151 Hanging Chimney HVD 2
152 Pneumoconiosis
-
VS 4c  
153 Slinky Minky
-
E4 6b  
154 Brains Missing
-
E3 5c  
155 Hermaphrodite E3 5c **  
156 Little Chimney
-
HVD 1
157 Twice Blessed
-
S 4a  
158 Cavern Climb HVD  
159 Jactation Climb
-
HVS 5a 1
160 Scooped Wall
-
VS 4b  
161 The Merchant
-
VS 5a  
162 East Chimney
-
D 1
163 Backtrack
-
HVS 5a  
164 Cowtrack
-
VS 5a  
165 Ivetti
-
VD  
166 George's Crack
-
HS 4b  
167 Downes' Route
-
HVD  
168 Grease Crack
-
VS 4c  
169 Mole Soup
-
E1 5b  
170 Blood Cracks
-
VS 4c  
171 Shylock
-
VS 4c *  
172 Grand Canal
-
HVD  
173 Red Tent Weekend
-
VS 4c  
174 Let the Red Cock Crow
-
E1 5b  
175 Red Arrow Arete
-
HVS 4c  
  Ashop Crack Buttress
177 Ashop Corner Climb HS 4b 1
178 Roman Roads VS 4c * 2
179 Ashop Crack VS 4c ** 18
180 Ashop Climb HVD ** 44
181 Orgasmo E1 5a  
182 Sid's Population Paste
-
E2 5c *  
183 Eureka VS 4c ** 72
184 Axilla The Pun
-
E3 6a  
185 Ure
-
VS 5a  
186 Toppleover
-
S 4b  
187 Twister HVD * 2
188 Britt's Cleavage E1 5b ** 2
189 Trial Balance HVS 5b *  
190 Eye for a Line HS 4b 1
  Renegade Block
192 Njal's Crack
-
HS 4b  
193 Gray's Climb
-
HVS 5a  
194 Thirty Six Hours in the Mystery Chair
-
HVS 5b  
195 Talcum Crack
-
HS 4b  
196 Bernie Crack
-
S 4a  
  Big Brother Buttress
198 Tin Tin Wall HS 4b 5
199 Barbara VD * 20
200 Jelly Baby Slab VS 4c * 2
201 Sliding Chimney S 4a  
202 Spacerunner E4 6a *  
203 Legacy HVS 5a *** 182
204 Intestate E1 5b *** 68
205 Big Brother E2 5c *** 24
206 Kinsman E4 6b * 1
207 Brother's Eliminate HVS 5a ** 5
208 Squatter's Rights E3 6b *  
209 Little Boy Blue E1 5c * 1
210 Blue Jade E3 6a  
211 Dirty Trick S 4b 1
212 Big Traverse VS 4b * 6
  Little Brother Buttress
214 Round Chimney VD 2
215 Razor Crack S 4a * 26
216 The Les Dawson Show E4 6a ** 13
217 Growth Centre E4 6b *  
218 Dunsinane VS 4b ** 71
219 The Savage Breast E1 5b * 9
220 Not so happy Larry's gearbox E2 5c/6a * 1
221 Motherless Children E1 5c * 4
222 Pot Belly E2 5c * 3
223 Tum Tum HVS 5b 1
  Round Stones
225 Lobster Crack VS 5a * 3
226 Crab Crack HVS 5b * 1
  Suave Blocks
  Black Overhangs
229 Tambourine VD 2
230 Wellington Slab S 4a * 3
231 Scooper Dooper VD ** 4
232 Not Tonight Josephine E1 5c *  
233 Back Hammer HS 4b  
234 Boston Crab VS 5a *  
235 Three Falls E4 6a *  
236 Submission E2 5b *  
237 Per Ardua VS 5a **  
238 Swinging in the Gallery E2 5c *  
239 Whit Walk VD * 1
240 Good Morning Sheffield E4 5c *  
241 The Mad Gardener E1 5c  
242 Downbyne HS 4b * 1
243 Cinder Crack VS 4c  
244 The Kinder Caper VS 4c  
  Mustard Walls
246 Banjo Crack HVD 1
247 Daddy Crack VS 4c * 7
248 Mummy Crack E1 5b * 5
249 Totally Spastic E6 6c *  
250 Wicked Uncle Ernie E4 6a *  
251 Campus Chimney VD 4
252 Mustard Walls E2 5c ** 14
253 Machine Gun Chimney HD 3
254 The Scratcher VS 4c *  
255 Toledo Wall VS 4b *  
256 Wire Brush Slab E2 5b * 4
257 Tweeter and the Monkey Man E4 6a ** 2
258 Knapp Hand HS 4b 3
259 The Slice HS 4b *  
260 Exodus VS 4c ** 4
261 Highball That You Bastards! E7 6b *** 1
  Jester Buttress
263 Jester Cracks HVS 5a *** 59
264 Monkey Madness E6 6c *** 1
265 Candle in the Wind E3 5c *** 8
266 Twisted Smile HVS 5a *** 69
267 Count Dracula E1 5b * 2
268 Woe is Me S 4a 2
269 Harlequin E3 6a ** 2
  Transport Buttress
271 Tramline Cracks VS 4c * 1
  Nameless Clough Buttress
273 Punch's Nose HVS 5a ** 2
274 Crayon Angel * f7A 1
  Bookcase Buttress
276 Act of Faith E4 6b *  
277 Pan Crack E1 5b  
278 Corinthians VS 4b  
279 Eve HVS 5b *  
280 Adam's Apple S 4a 4
281 Noah's Pair D 7
282 Apostle's Wall S 4a 7
283 Mark's Slab VS 4c  
284 Matthew HVS 5a *  
  The Quadrinnicle
286 Zebra E5 6b *  
287 Mark HS 4b * 4
288 Luke E1 5b 2
289 John VS 5a 1
290 Deborah E4 6a **  
  Dead Chimney Buttress
292 Fast Hands E3 5c  
293 Honeymoon Route VD 2
294 Kasebrot HS 4b  
295 Socialist's Variation VS 5a 2
296 Parliamentary Climb HVS 5a  
297 Dead Chimney VS 4b 1
298 Natural Born Chillers E6 6a ** 1
299 The Grey Slayer E4 5c **  
  The Boxing Gloves
301 Chariots Of Ire f7A+ *** 2
302 Float Like A Butterfly * f7A+ 2
  Scrambles
304 Fairbrook 1 6
305 Fairbrook Gully 1 * 4
306 Nether Red Brook 1 * 19
307 Nether Red Brook Alternative Finish 2 2 * 7
308 Nether Red Brook Alternative Finish 1 3 * 2
309 Upper Red Brook 1 8
310 Far Upper Red Brook 1 2
311 Blackden Brook 1 6
312 Blackden Brook Left Hand 1 3
  Winter Climbs
314 Fair Brook I 2
315 Fairbrook Gully I 1
316 Nether Red Brook
-
I 6
317 Nether Red Brook - Lower right Branch
-
III 3
318 Nether Red Brook - Upper right Branch
-
I/II 2
319 Upper Red Brook I/II 4
320 Far Upper Red Brook I 1
321 Blackden Brook
-
I 2
322 Blackden Brook Left Hand I * 1
323 Gate Side Clough II 1
324 Dizzy Gillespie * E5 6a  
  Unknown Location
326 Seven Deadly Skins * E5 6c *  
  To Be Verified
328 Launch * f7A 1
329 Chicken and Mushroom Scoop * f7A  
330 Stamina of a Seal * f6C 1
331 Bob's Arete * f6C 1
332 Bob's Left * f6B+ 1
333 Big Pockets * f4+ 1
334 The Wanderer * f6A 1
335 Wanderer Direct * f6B 1
336 Rosie On My Chest * f6B+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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