Climbs 51
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 456m a.s.l
Faces N

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View from Wilderness Rocks - Chew Valley © MTL

Crag features

Wilderness is home to a wide variety of climbs, including a few of the most breathtaking hard routes on Moorland grit. If you like slabs, walls, cracks, arêtes (especially arêtes) or chimneys you will find something here to tickle your fancy.

It's best to give the crag a week to dry after prolonged rain, maybe a few days after showers. Some of the faces (notably the harder lines) are really quite clean, whilst the hidden corners are fascinating alien worlds of strange life. The crag faces north and as such only gets the summer sun either very early or late afternoon and evening. The routes can be gritty and, without being brushed beforehand, may well be harder than the given grades.

Approach notes

Follow the tarmac road from Dovestones Reservoir to its end at Chew Reservoir. Contour south and west until you're above the rocks and drop down.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Scrambles in the Dark Peak (2012)
Over the Moors (2012)
Moorland Gritstone - Chew Valley (1988)

Out of print:
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Buttress
2 Mantelshelf Buttress
-
HS  
3 Curtis Left Crack
-
S  
4 Curtis Right Crack
-
VS 4b  
5 Suspicion Arête
-
VS 4c *  
6 Oblique Route
-
VS 4b  
7 Zoë's Choice
-
VD 1
8 'Ard Vark
-
E4 5c ** 4
9 Peat Chimney
-
VD  
10 Wildebeest
-
E3 6a * 3
11 Mac's Chimney
-
VD  
12 Huggis's Route
-
S 4a 1
13 Flake Groove Traverse
-
VS 4a ** 3
14 Flake Groove
-
VD * 1
15 San Pic Arête
-
VD * 1
16 It Hurts
-
E7 7a ***  
17 Winters Tale
-
HVS 5a  
18 Caution Crack
-
S 4a *  
19 Paul's Slab
-
E5 6b  
Climb name Grade
20 Let's get Killed
-
E7 6b ** 2
21 Escape
-
S 4a  
  Camel's Head
23 Camel's Arête
-
HVS 5a ** 2
24 Half-Way Chimney
-
VS 4b *  
25 Oasis Crack
-
VS 4b ** 6
26 Mutants Can Be Nice
-
E7 6c **  
27 Palm Crack
-
HVS 5a *  
28 Brown Traverse
-
S  
29 Indomitable
-
VS 4c  
30 Memphis Tennessee
-
E4 6b  
31 The Graceland
-
E3 5c * 3
  Lone Buttress
33 Spiral
-
VD * 4
34 Pinnacle Front
-
HS 4b *  
35 Ormerod's Debut
-
S  
36 The Nostril
-
S  
37 Chicken Pox Wall
-
VS 4c  
38 Sowerby's Twist
-
S  

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