Climbs 104
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces E

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Trollers Gill Routes © ROCKFAX

Crag features

Trollers Gill is a pleasant crag set in a remote dry valley that is often deserted. The gentle approach walk and convienent cafe add to the attraction of this out-of-the-way venue which has a good set of routes and one "sporty" classic to sort out any over-ambitious 7a leader. The rock is on the whole sound and provides sustained, fingery and technical lines linking short blank walls, slim grooves and small square-cut overhangs. This crag now has many more sport routes in the lower grades. Check the Leeds Wall web site for details

Approach notes

The best approach is from the villages of Burnsall and Appletreewick. Drive through Appletreewick and turn right towards Skyreholme and Parcevall Hall. Turn left onto a no through road to Parcevall Hall and park on grass verge on a bend. Take the path signed to ÎGill Headsâ just before the small bridge (the cafe is just across the bridge) and follow this for about 10 minutes, keeping right where the path forks at a dry valley. Continue to the narrow gorge which is often full of dead kamikaze rabbits. The crag is beyond, on the left, where it opens out a little.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Yorkshire Limestone (2005)

Out of print:
Great climbing especially on the main wall, but the midgys can very persistant if you didn't expect and prepare for them.
Jamie Currie - 01/Aug/13
For som reason I did the F5+ which is one of the easiest sport routes at the crag and maybe on Yorks Limestone. One of the worst routes I have ever done. 1 technical move to get started and then scrambing up loose rock to finish. Very Poor!
iggy - 19/Jun/06
Barguest - I agree the traverse is the best part of the route. Also it is possible to make White Zone almost independent by bouldering the wall to the R of Barguest start and climbing from R end of juggy ledge to the cave, this is 6b.
Ian Cummins - 10/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Wall
2 All Weather Extra 5c 106
3 Cross Breeding 6c+ 24
4 Never Look Back 7a+ * 10
5 Shaggy Dog Story 6c+ * 58
6 Angelic Upstart 7a ** 99
7 Spent Youth 7b+ ** 88
8 The Tinderbox 7c+ ** 17
9 Smouldering Globules of Lust 7c ** 67
10 The Velveteen Rabbit 8b ** 3
11 Wabbit and lamb
-
8a+ ** 1
12 Moddey Dhoo 8a+ * 1
13 Angel Heart 7c+ * 31
14 Hoodoo Guru 7b ** 53
15 Kick my Habit 7c * 10
16 Angel Dust 7a+ ** 90
17 Cold Turkey 7b ** 60
18 The Big Crack HVS 5a 8
19 The Jack Flap 6b * 210
20 The Jack Flap (The Cinder Toffee Start)
-
6c+ 73
21 Sweet Nothing 7a+ * 19
22 Angel Delight 7a+ ** 202
23 Haslam 7b+ *** 156
24 The Jim Grin 7a *** 435
25 Barguest 7a ** 123
26 Barguest Direct 7a *** 240
27 The White Zone 7b * 58
28 Brute
-
E1 5b 9
29 Brute Direct
-
E1 5b 10
30 Eau de Lapin 6c+ 34
31 Yew Can Do 6a+ 194
32 You Can Stretch 6c * 2
  Main Wall Bouldering
34 The Big Crack sit-start f3 2
35 Toffee Hole V6 3
36 The Cinder Toffee sit start V3 1
37 Fingers of Fudge V4+  
Climb name Grade
38 Fingers of Fudge Direct V6 1
39 Flake Out V3+ 2
40 Shake Out V4+  
41 Angel Delight sit start  V3+ 2
42 Instant Whip V4  
43 Grim Gin V4  
44 Jim Grin V4 1
45 Rabbit Warren V6 1
  Dog's Breakfast Wall
47 Dog's Breakfast 5a 54
48 Spectral Hound 6c+ 12
49 It's a Dogs (After) Life 6a 57
50 Barking Mad 5c 33
51 Korean Canine Kebab 6b+ * 32
52 Bad to the Bone 6c+ 9
53 Wild Rover 6b 16
54 Barking up the Wrong Tree 5a 22
55 Jack the Russell 6a+ 13
  The Right Wall
57 Dogged Determination 7a 3
58 Let Sleeping Dogs Lie 7a+ 1
59 Howling in the Hills 7a+ * 1
60 Puppy Power 7a 7
61 Roof, Roof! 7a 6
62 A Taste of Armageddon
-
E2 5a 2
63 Red Setter 7a * 10
64 Baby Beaker 6c+ * 1
65 Heir of the Dog 7a+ * 3
66 Leads United 6c+ * 11
67 Second Edition 6c * 15
68 Trivial Pursuit
-
E3 6a 3
69 Book Up
-
E3 6a 1
70 Epilogue
-
E3 5c 4
71 Booker Prize 6c * 51
72 Writers' Block 6c+ ** 46
73 Book Ends
-
E2 5c 4
74 Tough Titty
-
E3 6b  
Climb name Grade
75 Sour Grapes
-
HVS 5a 1
76 The Man Who Makes the Sun Cries for Rain
-
E1 5c 2
77 Overdue 6c 6
78 Long Overdue 6b+ * 20
79 Blockbuster 6b+ ** 18
80 Pumpkin HVS 5b * 3
81 Pumpkin Pie 5b 92
82 Short Story 4c 93
83 Non-Fiction 6a * 47
84 Fiction Slab
-
HVS 5a 29
85 Fiction Slab (Sport) 6a ** 43
86 No Mistake 6a ** 31
87 Mistaken Identity
-
5c 32
88 Fake News 6b * 26
89 A Matter of Fact 5c 23
90 Traverse of the Dogs 6a+ * 10
  Old Man's Crag
92 Grumpy Old Men 6b * 9
93 Grumpy Pumpy 6c * 15
94 Greybeard E1 5b 2
95 Grey Beard (Sport) 6a * 19
96 The Iron Cross 6b * 3
97 Somme Centenary 6c 13
98 The 1938 Variant 6c+ * 2
99 Referendum Day 7a ** 18
100 Hidden Gem E3 5c * 2
101 Hidden Gem (Sport) 6b+ ** 26
102 The Arthur Birtwhistle Celebration Route 6b+ ** 5
103 Mankey Way Left-hand 6b 10
104 Mankey Way HVS 5a 1
105 Mankey Way (Sport) 6a ** 24
106 Methuselah 5c * 38
107 Bright and Breezy
-
S 4a 5
108 Bright and Breezy (sport) 5a * 28
109 Unknown Groove VD 2
  Unknown

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