Climbs 90
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 300m a.s.l
Faces E

Trollers Gill Routes © ROCKFAX

Crag features

Trollers Gill is a pleasant crag set in a remote dry valley that is often deserted. The gentle approach walk and convienent cafe add to the attraction of this out-of-the-way venue which has a good set of routes and one "sporty" classic to sort out any over-ambitious 7a leader. The rock is on the whole sound and provides sustained, fingery and technical lines linking short blank walls, slim grooves and small square-cut overhangs. This crag now has many more sport routes in the lower grades. Check the Leeds Wall web site for details

Approach notes

The best approach is from the villages of Burnsall and Appletreewick. Drive through Appletreewick and turn right towards Skyreholme and Parcevall Hall. Turn left onto a no through road to Parcevall Hall and park on grass verge on a bend. Take the path signed to ÎGill Headsâ just before the small bridge (the cafe is just across the bridge) and follow this for about 10 minutes, keeping right where the path forks at a dry valley. Continue to the narrow gorge which is often full of dead kamikaze rabbits. The crag is beyond, on the left, where it opens out a little.

Access Advice

The main crag is unaffected by the nesting restriction. This only refers to the isolated buttress known as The Old Man's Crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Raven have nested on The Old Man's Crag, the small outcrop to the right of the main gorge, for the last few years. The nest is usually large and clearly visible and so if, present this year, please avoid between 1st February and 31st of May.

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Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Yorkshire Limestone (2005)

Out of print:
Great climbing especially on the main wall, but the midgys can very persistant if you didn't expect and prepare for them.
Jamie Currie - 01/Aug/13
For som reason I did the F5+ which is one of the easiest sport routes at the crag and maybe on Yorks Limestone. One of the worst routes I have ever done. 1 technical move to get started and then scrambing up loose rock to finish. Very Poor!
iggy - 19/Jun/06
Barguest - I agree the traverse is the best part of the route. Also it is possible to make White Zone almost independent by bouldering the wall to the R of Barguest start and climbing from R end of juggy ledge to the cave, this is 6b.
Ian Cummins - 10/Sep/04
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Wall
2 All Weather Extra 5c 86
3 Cross Breeding 6c+ 21
4 Never Look Back 7a+ * 9
5 Shaggy Dog Story 6c+ * 39
6 Angelic Upstart 7a ** 69
7 Spent Youth 7b+ ** 71
8 The Tinderbox 7c+ ** 17
9 Smouldering Globules of Lust 7c ** 52
10 The Velveteen Rabbit 8b ** 3
11 Wabbit and lamb
-
8a+ ** 1
12 Moddey Dhoo 8a+ * 1
13 Angel Heart 7c+ * 24
14 Hoodoo Guru 7b ** 43
15 Kick my Habit 7c * 9
16 Angel Dust 7a+ ** 56
17 Cold Turkey 7b ** 52
18 The Big Crack HVS 5a 7
19 The Jack Flap 6b * 163
20 The Jack Flap (The Cinder Toffee Start)
-
6c+ 59
21 Sweet Nothing 7a+ * 16
22 Angel Delight 7a+ ** 160
23 Haslam 7b+ *** 119
24 The Jim Grin 7a *** 351
25 Barguest 7a ** 98
26 Barguest Direct 7a *** 183
27 The White Zone 7b * 46
28 Brute
-
E1 5b 8
29 Brute Direct
-
E1 5b 9
30 Eau de Lapin 6c+ 29
31 Yew Can Do 6a+ 155
32 You Can Stretch 6c * 2
  Dog's Breakfast Wall
34 Dog's Breakfast 5a 51
35 Spectral Hound 6c+ 11
36 It's a Dogs (After) Life 6a 57
37 Barking Mad 5c 31
38 Korean Canine Kebab 6b+ * 29
39 Bad to the Bone 6c+ 9
40 Wild Rover 6b 14
41 Barking up the Wrong Tree 5a 18
42 Jack the Russell 6a+ 11
  The Right Wall
44 Dogged Determination 7a 3
45 Let Sleeping Dogs Lie 7a+ 1
46 Howling in the Hills 7a+ * 1
47 Puppy Power 7a 8
48 Roof, Roof! 7a 6
49 A Taste of Armageddon
-
E2 5a 2
50 Red Setter 7a * 7
51 Baby Beaker 6c+ * 1
52 Heir of the Dog 7a+ * 3
53 Leads United 6c+ * 11
54 Second Edition 6c * 10
55 Trivial Pursuit
-
E3 6a 3
56 Book Up
-
E3 6a 1
57 Epilogue
-
E3 5c 3
58 Booker Prize 6c * 40
59 Writers' Block 6c+ ** 31
60 Book Ends
-
E2 5c 4
61 Tough Titty
-
E3 6b  
62 Sour Grapes
-
HVS 5a 1
63 The Man Who Makes the Sun Cries for Rain
-
E1 5c 2
64 Overdue 6c 2
65 Long Overdue 6b+ * 5
66 Blockbuster 6b+ ** 3
67 Pumpkin HVS 5b * 3
68 Pumpkin Pie 5b 59
69 Short Story 4c 62
70 Non-Fiction 6a * 4
71 Fiction Slab
-
HVS 5a 25
72 No Mistake 6a ** 3
73 Mistaken Identity
-
5c 6
74 Fake News 6b * 3
75 A Matter of Fact 5c 5
  Old man's Crag
77 Grumpy Old Men 6b * 6
78 Grumpy Pumpy 6c * 12
79 Greybeard E1 5b 2
80 Grey Beard (Sport) 6a * 13
81 The Iron Cross 6b * 2
82 Somme Centenary 6c 10
83 The 1938 Variant 6c+ * 2
84 Referendum Day 7a ** 17
85 Hidden Gem E3 5c * 2
86 Hidden Gem (Sport) 6b+ ** 22
87 The Arthur Birtwhistle Celebration Route 6b+ ** 5
88 Mankey Way Left-hand 6b 9
89 Mankey Way HVS 5a 1
90 Mankey Way (Sport) 6a ** 19
91 Methuselah 5c * 19
92 Bright and Breezy
-
S 4a 5
93 Bright and Breezy (sport) 5a * 16
94 Unknown Groove VD 1
  Unknown
  Un-Checked Routes

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