Climbs 42
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

You'll never guess which way the wind blows round here ....... © Lankyman

Crag features

Humphrey Head is a unique place befitting of its weird name. The crag is positioned on a remote headland in the midst of Morecombe Bay's vast tidal sand flats where the sea can be sensed but rarely glimpsed. The crag has been comprehesively re-bolted in 2016 and the original lines straightened to provide excellent sport routes across the grades. The crag takes very little seepage and is likely to be in condition when Chapel Head is unclimbably wet. 

Approach notes

From Junction 36 of the M6 follow signs for Kendal and Barrow on the A591 and at the first exit on the A591 follow the signs for Barrow on the A590. Pass the obvious crag of White Scar and continue to a roundabout. Take the B5277 to Grange-over-Sands. Follow the road all the way through the town and then on to the village of Allithwaite. On exiting the village turn left on the minor road signed to Humphrey Head.

Restricted Access

The restriction allpie to the whole crag and is signed on site. Access along the foreshore at the base of the crag is not restricted however.

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Available in the Rockfax App

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Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
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Out of print:
Routes on main wall quite hard, can be a bit overgrown, fixed gear often suspect... but it's a lovely spot and you won't find queues on the routes.
Clive Allen - 01/Mar/07
Humphrey Head is beautiful, i visited in 1995 with my primary school and loved it. it is great for scrambling and the wolfs cave(where the last wolves in england supposedly lived) is of particular interest. Care should be taken on the beach though as there is an amount of sinking sand. All in all a wonderful place with fond memories.
sam hewitt - 14/Mar/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Main Area 
2Sniffing the Saddle6a+ *16
3Sniffing the Saddle Direct6a+ 5
4FusionE3 6a *1
5Trigger FingerE2 5c **33
6Shot By Both Sides7a *9
7Firing Squad7a+ **16
8Live Rounds7a+ *3
9Shooting the Load7a *6
10Humphrey Hymen Met a Sly Man7b+ **6
11Stymen6c *34
12Pork Pie6b *48
13Humphrey Bogart7a+ *4
 Upper Buttress 
15Humphrey Dumphrey6a *15
16Engelbert Humphreding7b 1
17Mr Self-destruct7b  
 The Arch 
19Back Into the Future7c *2
20Mindfields7a+ ** 
21Head Like a Hole8b+ 1
22Hollow Lands6c *2
23Slightly Shoddy7a 2
25crinkle wall
V3 *6
E1 5b 1
27The Corner Crack
VB 14
28the layback corner
V0 13
29the diagonal crack
V0+ 13
30trad crack
V2 10
31end wall
V0 6
HVS 5a *14
33Where bolters fear to tread
HVS 5a 4
34The JobE1 5c 1
35Sir Edgar's Crack
VS 4c 4
HVS 5a 2
37Roof CornerV2 *8
38Pocket ProblemV3 *9
39The TraverseV2 **8
40Sanctumf7A *1
41The Low TraverseV4 1
42Humphrey Cushion7a 4
E2 5b 1
44Crinkle Wall AlternativeV0+ 2
45Dodgy FingersV1 *2
46Coup de Grace7b+ **1

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