Climbs 42
Rocktype Limestone

Faces W

You'll never guess which way the wind blows round here ....... © Lankyman

Crag features

Humphrey Head is a unique place befitting of its weird name. The crag is positioned on a remote headland in the midst of Morecombe Bay's vast tidal sand flats where the sea can be sensed but rarely glimpsed. The crag has been comprehesively re-bolted in 2016 and the original lines straightened to provide excellent sport routes across the grades. The crag takes very little seepage and is likely to be in condition when Chapel Head is unclimbably wet. 

Approach notes

From Junction 36 of the M6 follow signs for Kendal and Barrow on the A591 and at the first exit on the A591 follow the signs for Barrow on the A590. Pass the obvious crag of White Scar and continue to a roundabout. Take the B5277 to Grange-over-Sands. Follow the road all the way through the town and then on to the village of Allithwaite. On exiting the village turn left on the minor road signed to Humphrey Head.

Access Advice

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the whole crag and is signed on site. Access for ground level traversing along the foreshore at the base of the crag is not restricted however.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
More Guidebooks:

Out of print:
Routes on main wall quite hard, can be a bit overgrown, fixed gear often suspect... but it's a lovely spot and you won't find queues on the routes.
Clive Allen - 01/Mar/07
Humphrey Head is beautiful, i visited in 1995 with my primary school and loved it. it is great for scrambling and the wolfs cave(where the last wolves in england supposedly lived) is of particular interest. Care should be taken on the beach though as there is an amount of sinking sand. All in all a wonderful place with fond memories.
sam hewitt - 14/Mar/05
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Main Area
2 Sniffing the Saddle 6a+ * 16
3 Sniffing the Saddle Direct 6a+ 5
4 Fusion E3 6a * 2
5 Trigger Finger E2 5c ** 37
6 Shot By Both Sides 7a * 9
7 Firing Squad 7a+ ** 16
8 Live Rounds 7a+ * 3
9 Shooting the Load 7a * 6
10 Humphrey Hymen Met a Sly Man 7b+ ** 9
11 Stymen 6c * 37
12 Pork Pie 6b * 56
13 Humphrey Bogart 7a+ * 5
  Upper Buttress
15 Humphrey Dumphrey 6a * 16
16 Engelbert Humphreding 7b 1
17 Mr Self-destruct 7b  
  The Arch
19 Back Into the Future 7c * 4
20 Mindfields 7a+ **  
21 Head Like a Hole 8b+ 4
22 Hollow Lands 6c * 2
23 Slightly Shoddy 7a 4
  Bouldering
25 crinkle wall
-
V3 * 6
26 Noda
-
E1 5b 1
27 The Corner Crack
-
VB 14
28 the layback corner
-
V0 5a 13
29 the diagonal crack
-
V0+ 5b 13
30 trad crack
-
V2 6a 10
31 end wall
-
V0 5a 6
32 January
-
HVS 5a * 16
33 Where bolters fear to tread
-
HVS 5a 6
34 The Job E1 5c 1
35 Sir Edgar's Crack
-
VS 4c 4
36 Oktoberfest
-
HVS 5a 2
37 Roof Corner V2 6a * 8
38 Pocket Problem V3 * 9
39 The Traverse V2 ** 6
40 Sanctum f7A * 1
41 The Low Traverse V4 1
42 Humphrey Cushion 7a 4
43 3-2-1
-
E2 5b 1
44 Crinkle Wall Alternative V0+ 2
45 Dodgy Fingers V1 * 2
46 Coup de Grace 7b+ ** 1

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