Climbs 65
Rocktype Welsh igneous
Altitude 263m a.s.l
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Kev Davies on 1st ascent © pencarth

Crag features

Moel-y-Gest is a 263m hill to the west of Porthmadog in North Wales. It is a very rocky hill with high topographic prominence because of the lower land that surrounds it on all sides, and qualifies as a Marilyn.

Located here are many easier routes on solid rock and an impressive panorama of Cardigan Bay.

Approach notes

Park at a small layby near the 30/40mph signs. Follow the path up past an old quarry. Take the next path up leftwards to a col where you take the path on the right. Follow this uphill to the western summit of Moel y Gest, then drop down to a col and then to a stone wall. Follow this rightward to Mainmast and Bulkhead Buttresses.

Accessing Mainmast during the summer months can be a problem due to head height bracken. Best to abseil in from a fixed wire sling anchor (beneath a boulder) at the top of Wardroom Crack. Foremast is directly above Tyddyn Llwyn Caravan Park. Drop down from the first col and follow the wall rightward to reach a scree slope underneath the crag. The routes on this particular section are poor and not worth the effort.

Guidebooks

Went to Bulkhead buttress, well worth a visit, definite sun trap and after raining just before first climb rock had dried completely by second climb with little sun. Grading easy most climbs would knock a grade off but maybe this is just because i'm used to climbing more popular routes. Lovely place
Sol Armer - 12/Apr/13
very usefull topo guide can be found here: http://attachments.wetpaintserv.us/vGPrIZ7Mste%24lJt7yexJ3g%3D%3D1388349
George_Surf - 05/Aug/11
I found the crag easy to locate an locate the routes once i had fond the twin flakes mentioned on the Bulkhead route. The foot of the crag was rather over grown with ferns in August that only hindered us slightly. Given this and its locaton next to everdry tremadog i would think it would make a good alternative to the busy cliffs during autum and winter. Definatly one crag i will be visiting again.
richw2k2 - 10/Aug/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Moel-y-Gest
2 Moel-y-Gest summit
-
summit 20
  Summit Cliff
4 Arafa Don VS 4c * 17
5 Mor o Dristwch VS 4c * 19
6 Ceidwad y Goleudy HVS 5a ** 18
7 Leech Line HVS 5b 5
8 Crosstrees
-
VD  
9 Loblolly Boy VS 4b ** 10
10 Belaying Pin
-
VD 1
  Mainmast Buttress
12 Ship Shape
-
E1 5b * 4
13 Bristol Fashion
-
E1 5c  
14 Windjammer MVS 4b 3
15 Codi Angor S 4a 2
16 Jibboom HS 2
17 Mizzon Top
-
D  
18 The Cathead
-
VS 4b * 7
19 Mizzen Shrouds
-
D 2
20 The Catwalk D 15
21 Alas Poor Yoric
-
S 4b 9
22 Half Mast
-
S 2
23 The Crow's Nest
-
D 17
24 The Dog Watch
-
E2 5c ** 4
Climb name Grade
25 Jacob's Ladder HS 4b * 10
26 Wardroom Deckhead
-
VD 9
27 Wardroom Hatch VD 1
28 Wardroom Slab
-
S 4
29 The Fo' Castle
-
HVS 5a 6
30 Wardroom Crack VD 29
31 Sidebuoys S 4a 22
32 Cat o' Nine Tails
-
VS 4c * 29
33 Monkey's Island Superdirect
-
S * 38
34 Monkey's Island Direct
-
S 27
35 The Directissima
-
VS 4c ** 33
36 The Bridge
-
HVS 5a ** 8
37 Starboard Gangway D 3
38 Port Gangway
-
D 1
39 Sailor Bob's Furry Spru Stool
-
HVS 5b * 22
40 Signal Bridge
-
VD * 9
  Bulkhead Buttress
42 Look Back In Anchor
-
S 26
43 Cantre'r Gwaelod VS 4c * 26
44 Antur Madog E1 5b 28
45 Oh Captan, My Captain VS 4c * 13
46 Black Ball Line VS 4c ** 10
47 Fore-and-Aft VS 4c * 1
48 Das Boot E1 5c * 12
Climb name Grade
49 Lieutenant O Hurra VS 5a 7
50 Llongau Madog VS 4b * 24
51 Ancient Mariner HS 4b * 30
52 Mynd I Bala Ar y Cwch Banana
-
E2 5c ** 6
53 Shiver Me Timbers
-
E1 5b 13
54 Yellow Fever
-
VS 4c 12
55 Sea Fever
-
HVS 4c 17
56 Edrych Tuag Adre VS 4c 2
57 Avast Behind
-
HS 4b * 69
58 Mynd i Forio
-
VS 5a * 42
59 Fflat Huw Puw
-
VS 5a * 38
60 Bulkhead Route D 36
  Foremast Buttress
62 Midshipman Easy HS 4b  
63 The Gun Turret VD 4a  
64 Forestay D 1
65 Bulwark Slab D 1
66 Cutlass
-
D  
  Creigiau Morfa
68 Immortal Sails S 4a * 3
69 Mimosa S 4a * 3
70 The Foo Foo Gang VS 4c 3
71 Through Mighty Seas S 4a 3

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