Climbs 69
Rocktype Welsh igneous
Altitude 219m a.s.l
Faces S

Kev Davies on 1st ascent © pencarth

Crag features

Lots of easier routes on solid rock and an impressive panorama of Cardigan Bay

Approach notes

Follow the footpath leading up from the A497 Porthmadog to Criccieth road. Park at a small lay by near the 30/40mph signs. Follow the path up past an old quarry. Take the next path up leftwards to a col where you take the path on the right. Follow this uphill to the western summit of Moel Y Gest, then drop down to a col and then to a stone wall. Follow this rightward to Mainmast and Bulkhead Buttresses. Accessing Mainmast during the summer months can be a problem due to head height bracken. Best to abseil in from a fixed wire sling anchor (beneath a boulder) at the top of Wardroom Crack. Foremast is directly above Tyddyn Llwyn Caravan Park. Drop down from the first col and follow the wall rightward to reach a scree slope underneath the crag. The routes on this particular section are poor and not worth the effort.
Creigiau Morfa is the escarpment on the lower slopes of Moel y Gest overlooking the golf course at Morfa Bychan. Approx. 100m past the golf club house ,(parking) a public footpath on the right crosses the golf course and wanders up towards the crag, which is clearly visible. 10 mts approach. Dries almost immediately and has a pleasant situation . Not in current guide book. The escarpment continues rightward for about 100m and has lots of scope for bouldering with a reasonable grassy landing.

Guidebooks

Went to Bulkhead buttress, well worth a visit, definite sun trap and after raining just before first climb rock had dried completely by second climb with little sun. Grading easy most climbs would knock a grade off but maybe this is just because i'm used to climbing more popular routes. Lovely place
Sol Armer - 12/Apr/13
very usefull topo guide can be found here: http://attachments.wetpaintserv.us/vGPrIZ7Mste%24lJt7yexJ3g%3D%3D1388349
George_Surf - 05/Aug/11
I found the crag easy to locate an locate the routes once i had fond the twin flakes mentioned on the Bulkhead route. The foot of the crag was rather over grown with ferns in August that only hindered us slightly. Given this and its locaton next to everdry tremadog i would think it would make a good alternative to the busy cliffs during autum and winter. Definatly one crag i will be visiting again.
richw2k2 - 10/Aug/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Summit Cliff
2 Arafa Don VS 4c * 15
3 Mor o Dristwch VS 4c * 16
4 Ceidwad y Goleudy HVS 5a ** 17
5 Leech Line HVS 5b 5
6 Crosstrees
-
VD  
7 Loblolly Boy VS 4b ** 9
8 Belaying Pin
-
VD 1
  Mainmast Buttress
10 Ship Shape
-
E1 5b * 4
11 Bristol Fashion
-
E1 5c  
12 Windjammer MVS 4b 3
13 Codi Angor S 4a 2
14 Jibboom HS 2
15 Mizzon Top
-
D  
16 The Cathead
-
VS 4b * 7
17 Mizzen Shrouds
-
D 2
18 The Catwalk D 15
19 Alas Poor Yoric
-
S 4b 8
20 Half Mast
-
S 2
21 The Crow's Nest
-
D 17
22 The Dog Watch
-
E2 5c ** 4
23 Jacob's Ladder HS 4b * 9
24 Wardroom Deckhead
-
VD 8
25 Wardroom Hatch VD 2
26 Wardroom Slab
-
S 3
27 The Fo' Castle
-
HVS 5a 6
28 Wardroom Crack VD 27
29 Sidebuoys S 4a 20
30 Cat o' Nine Tails
-
VS 4c * 32
31 Monkey's Island Superdirect
-
S * 35
32 Monkey's Island Direct
-
S 26
33 The Directissima
-
VS 4c ** 30
34 The Bridge
-
HVS 5a ** 7
35 Starboard Gangway D 3
36 Port Gangway
-
D 1
37 Sailor Bob's Furry Spru Stool
-
HVS 5b * 20
38 Signal Bridge
-
VD * 8
  Bulkhead Buttress
40 Look Back In Anchor
-
S 22
41 Cantre'r Gwaelod VS 4c * 23
42 Antur Madog E1 5b 26
43 Oh Captan, My Captain VS 4c * 11
44 Black Ball Line VS 4c ** 8
45 Fore-and-Aft VS 4c * 1
46 Das Boot E1 5c * 11
47 Lieutenant O Hurra VS 5a 7
48 Llongau Madog VS 4b * 20
49 Ancient Mariner HS 4b * 26
50 Mynd I Bala Ar y Cwch Banana
-
E2 5c ** 6
51 Shiver Me Timbers
-
E1 5b 12
52 Yellow Fever
-
VS 4c 11
53 Sea Fever
-
HVS 4c 15
54 Edrych Tuag Adre VS 4c 1
55 Avast Behind
-
HS 4b * 59
56 Mynd i Forio
-
VS 5a * 40
57 Fflat Huw Puw
-
VS 5a * 35
58 Bulkhead Route D 30
  Foremast Buttress
60 Midshipman Easy HS 4b  
61 The Gun Turret VD 4a  
62 Forestay D 1
63 Bulwark Slab D 1
64 Cutlass
-
D  
  Creigiau Morfa
66 Immortal Sails S 4a * 3
67 Mimosa S 4a * 3
68 The Foo Foo Gang VS 4c 3
69 Through Mighty Seas S 4a 3

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