Climbs 22
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 110m a.s.l
Faces NW

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Sun Flare Pic Tor © Peakography

Crag features

A small compact sheet of rock within the confines of Matlock. Only a few minutes from the parking it is good venue for a quick session. Unfortunately it faces north and so sees little sun, though it makes a great retreat on hot day. The routes have become polished over the years.

Needs Some attention as many of the routes are becoming overgrown due to the Ivy

Approach notes

From the large public parking just south of Matlock on the A6, walk back towards Matlock and cross the bridge just west of the Boat House pub. On the far side turn left along the riverside path. The crag is on the right through an arch and just around the corner.

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Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
On Peak Rock (2003)

Out of print:
Had an evening session here, having not visited for about 20 years, the crag is looking a little neglected, which is a shame as, despite being relatively short, the routes pack in a lot climbing. Silenus is very good and well protected, it would make a good first Limestone E1 lead. Tip: The car park is expensive, but dont park at John Hadfield house as they padlock the barriers. If you are too mean to pay, lose your car in Matlock and walk.
Pilch - 30/Apr/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Little Pig S 2
2 Permission E3 6a * 19
3 Sulphur City E3 6a 58
4 Big Pig HVS 5a * 62
5 The Impending Glean HVS 5a * 60
6 Burning Spear HVS 5a * 71
7 Nosferatu E2 5c * 104
8 Cistron E1 5b * 180
Climb name Grade
9 Silenus E2 5b ** 225
10 Erasmus E2 5c ** 151
11 Stenosis E4 5c 3
12 Diagnosis E4 6a * 7
13 Neurosis E3 6a * 35
14 Shrink E4 6a 3
15 Prognosis E2 5c ** 148
16 Clean Sweep E1 5a,5b, 2
Climb name Grade
17 Pic of the Tor f6C+ ** 1
18 Tufa 1 f6A * 2
19 Pic Pocket f6A+ 2
20 Big Pig Start f5 2
21 Black Finger f6A+ * 1
22 Little Finger f5+ 1

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