Climbs 16
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 110m a.s.l
Faces NW

Sun Flare Pic Tor © Peakography

Crag features

A small compact sheet of rock within the confines of Matlock. Only a few minutes from the parking it is good venue for a quick session. Unfortunately it faces north and so sees little sun, though it makes a great retreat on hot day. The routes have become polished over the years.

Needs Some attention as many of the routes are becoming overgrown due to the Ivy

Approach notes

From the large public parking just south of Matlock on the A6, walk back towards Matlock and cross the bridge just west of the Boat House pub. On the far side turn left along the riverside path. The crag is on the right through an arch and just around the corner.

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Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
On Peak Rock (2003)

Out of print:
Had an evening session here, having not visited for about 20 years, the crag is looking a little neglected, which is a shame as, despite being relatively short, the routes pack in a lot climbing. Silenus is very good and well protected, it would make a good first Limestone E1 lead. Tip: The car park is expensive, but dont park at John Hadfield house as they padlock the barriers. If you are too mean to pay, lose your car in Matlock and walk.
Pilch - 30/Apr/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Little PigS 2
2PermissionE3 6a *17
3Sulphur CityE3 6a 52
4Big PigHVS 5a *51
5The Impending GleanHVS 5a *53
6Burning SpearHVS 5a *61
7NosferatuE2 5c *90
8CistronE1 5b *142
9SilenusE2 5b **186
10ErasmusE2 5c **120
11StenosisE4 5c  
12DiagnosisE4 6a *6
13NeurosisE3 6a *31
14ShrinkE4 6a 3
15PrognosisE2 5c **127
16Clean SweepE1 5a,5b, 2

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