UKC

Climbs 330
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 470m a.s.l
Faces W

The Edge © Maciek Plonczynski

Crag features

Right in the heart of Bronte country. Not much in the HVS range, but plenty for the low-grade E climber. Aspect means it can be green, but pleasant in the summer. Lots of nice interesting bouldering scattered all around, potential for some new harder lines possibly.

Approach notes

Park at The White House pub as for Cow's Mouth Quarry, the path towards Blackstone edge is just on the other side of the road.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Great venue, one of the best you'll find in the Lancs bouldering guide! some great problems especially between the 5+ and 6B grades
Ehmarra - 31/May/16
Decent bouldering circuit over three areas. Not much above 7a but a complete mixbag of climbs around 6a-6c mark.
rice boy - 29/May/08
Some superb problems here. You just need to hunt them out. Give it 48 hours to dry after rain in Winter. An excellent venue.
bentley's biceps - 16/Mar/08
green green green green green I'm sure it'd be fine if we hadn't had 5 weeks of rain though.....
rginns - 23/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Crag: Routes
2 Phase Change
-
E1 5c *  
3 Slim Jim VS 5a * 3
4 Manibus et Pedibusque E4 6a *  
5 Nor Nor' Chimney VD 19
6 North Chimney
-
M 8
7 North Cave M 13
8 North cave direct start VS 4c 1
9 Belly on a Plate VS 4c 10
10 The Mangler VS 5a ** 11
11 Cornflake E2 5c *  
12 Central Eliminate VS 5a 12
13 Central Crack VD ** 49
14 Central Groove S 4b * 38
15 Descent Chimney
-
D 2
16 Master Ego E2 5c 2
17 Little Miss Id Variations E3 6a *  
18 Little Miss Id E2 5c ** 12
19 Tryche E5 6a ** 4
20 Pots E2 5c  
21 Outside Edge VS 4c * 6
22 South Chimney D * 31
23 Twin Cracks D 43
24 Palmistry E2 5c * 2
25 No Sign of Three E2 5c ** 6
26 Swot and Heaty E4 6a *  
27 Doomidest Hay E5 6b *  
28 Slin and Thippy E4 6a 1
29 Pendulum Swing Direct HVS 5a 8
30 Pendulum Swing VS 4c * 31
  South Crag: Routes
32 Black
-
HVS 5a 2
33 Stone
-
D 3
34 Edge
-
VS 4c 1
35 Overlook
-
HVS 5b * 1
36 The Blighter
-
S 4a 3
37 Yes
-
S 4a 3
38 More
-
S 4a 7
39 Who? Me?
-
VS 4b 2
40 Makeweight
-
D 2
41 Steppin' Out HS 4b 3
42 Solitary
-
E2 5c 1
43 Right Route
-
VS 5a 1
44 Grit Appeal HVS 5a * 4
45 Reach Man HVS 5a * 3
46 Oh No You Don't! HVS 5a * 3
  North Crag, Bouldering
48 Master Ego Trav f6A 2
49 1975 f7A v6 * 7
50 Calibration V7 4
51 Recalibrate f7B v8 * 9
52 Recalibrate (Standing Start) f6A * 7
53 Wrestle Down the Wind
-
f7B 2
54 Main Wall Traverse * 5a 1
  Balcony Wall
56 Sturlup f4 12
57 Sturlup Sit Start f5 2
58 Greenflint f4+ 11
59 Greenflint (sit)
-
f6A 3
60 Dansten f3 10
61 Naradame f4 10
62 Argel f4 10
63 Riffless f3 9
64 Purousten f3+ 8
65 Shalling f3 7
66 Shalling Sitter
-
f6C * 4
  Central Boulders
68 Get Set f5 13
69 Diversion and On f5+ 18
70 Concavity Cons Gravity f6B v3 * 16
71 Robin's Dyno f6C v5 * 4
72 Underway f5+ v3 18
73 Fridge Hugger f7B+ v9 *** 6
74 Fridge Hugger (standing) f6A+ * 10
75 We are not Amused f5+ 2
76 We are not Confused f5 2
77 Blackstone Best f6B v3 5
78 Wall f5+ v1 6
79 Nosey Thing f5+ 12
80 The Easy Mantel f6A 9
81 Backside Slab f5+ 9
82 Lippy Traverse f6C 1
83 Ugly Duckling f3 3
84 Ugly Duckling Sit
-
f7A 1
85 The Fortress f5 5
86 The Fortress Arete f4 * 9
87 The Cracks f4 2
88 Slopey Wall f6C v5 1
89 Short and Salty f5 10
90 The Midget Miracle f6C 4
91 Mini Right Arete. f5  
92 Elixir f7A+ v7 ** 1
93 Robin's Slap f6B+ v4 * 4
94 One mover f5 3
95 Yee-Ha f6B+  
96 Off-side f5+ * 1
97 Offwidth Your Head f6B  
98 Proper Job f6C *  
99 Pony Club f7A ** 2
100 Fall and Chains f6C+  
101 Recess f6B+  
102 Game of Groans f6C+ 1
103 Poundsaver f7A  
104 Basic Tech f6B  
105 Confessed Obsessed f6C  
106 Gnome Arete f5+ 4
107 Hero f7A **  
108 Tricepatops f6C  
109 Newfangled Slaptop f5+ 1
110 Happy Mole Man f6C+ * 1
111 Lungefish f5+ * 3
112 Slowfish f6B  
113 The Right Honourable Runnel
-
f6B * 2
114 Anvilette f5+ 3
115 Oh Dear f6A  
Climb name Grade
116 Oh My f6A 1
117 Eager Beaver f6B  
  Back Edge
119 Nik's Groove f7A v6 * 1
120 Nik's Groove with Left Arete
-
f6B 1
121 Squashed Nose f6B+ v4  
122 Nik's Left f6B+ v4 * 3
123 Nik's Arete f6B+ v4 * 1
124 The Big Crack Thing f5 6
125 Nik's Slap f6C+ v5 * 1
126 Bum Fiend f5+ 1
127 Nibble My Grit f4  
128 Hand Holed f6B * 1
129 Try me f4  
130 Try Me (sit start)
-
f6C 2
131 Home Improvements f6C+ * 9
132 Home Improvements Right f7A 9
133 Patiopia f7A *  
134 Sergeant Jump f6A 5
135 Cocklewarmer f5+ 2
136 Groove is in the Art f5 4
137 Frog Legs f4 4
138 Amy Pond f4 11
139 Ricki Lake f4 14
140 Ricki Lake (Sit) f6A 5
141 Billy Ocean f4 13
142 Billy Ocean (Sit) f6A+ 5
143 Spaghetti Limbs f6B 14
144 The Sneak f3+ 3
145 The Runnel f5+ 7
146 Pocket Dyno f6B+ v4 * 6
147 Polly Pocket f6C v5 * 5
148 Pocket arete f6A v2 8
149 No Pocket No Cry f5 2
150 No Pocket, No Cry (Sit Start)
-
f6B 5
151 Free and Easy f4+ 3
  Slopey Top Area
153 Wigeon f5  
154 The Wodge f7A+ *  
155 The Wedge f7A ** 1
156 Wedge Witch f6A 1
157 Ledge Itch f6B 1
158 Obstinate Bactrian f6C  
159 Deft Cleft f6C 1
160 Foxy Furtlings f7B v8 *  
161 Nutrition f6B v3 1
162 Lock Stock and Smoking Heel f6C+ * 1
163 Boozy Brawler f7A v6 * 2
164 Bottomless Git f6B+ v4 1
165 Stan's a gurner f7A+ ** 1
166 The Lady's not for Gurning f7B v8 * 7
167 Soul Calibre V5 * 1
168 The Iron Lady f7A * 1
169 Hand Me Frowns f7A  
170 Insouciance f7A *  
171 Blundercut f4 2
172 Flip Me f6C  
173 Leg Sandwich f5+  
174 Stacked Like Arnie f6A+  
175 The Shelfish Way f6C  
176 Checkout f6A  
177 The Underdog f7A+ * 2
178 Sharpe f7A+ 3
179 Harper f6B 1
  Trig Point Boulders
181 Fine and Dandy f4 17
182 Time for Tweed f3 16
183 Pockington Lane f6B v4 * 37
184 Pockington Lane from standing f6A 13
185 Grrr f5 12
186 Grrr (sit)
-
f6B 6
187 Finders Fee f4 14
188 Minutiae f5+ 9
189 Trigger f6B+ v4 7
190 Trig Crack f3 7
191 Trig Slab f6A v2 * 27
192 Trig Arete f6C v5 * 16
193 Trig ArĂȘte from standing f6B+ * 4
194 Trigonomy f6A * 13
195 Trigonomy (sit start) f6A+ 1
196 Trig Wall f3+ * 2
197 Trig Point Flake f2 * 2
198 No Nonsense f5+ 9
199 The Lushering f7A * 16
200 Done Years Ago f6B * 18
201 Con Air f7A ** 29
202 Paggered f6B+ 2
203 Sly Way f6A+ 5
204 Green and Black f6A+ * 3
205 Mike's Arete * f7A 2
206 Mike's Arete (sit start) * f7B  
207 Troll Mohican f6B+  
208 Cleft of the Brave f5+ ** 3
209 Fissure of Fear f6A * 2
210 Last Lash f6A 1
211 Turnpike Roof f7A 1
212 Vanguard f7A 1
213 Crackonomy f5+  
214 Belly Bouncer f6A 1
215 Go that Way f6B 4
216 Go Low f6B 6
217 Go this Way f6B+ 3
  Easy Wall
219 First Laugh f5+ 18
220 First Laugh (stand up)
-
f3 6
221 Keep Laughing f5 5
222 Under a Dark Dream f4 * 22
223 Roaming Under a Dark Dream of Pleasant Pugs f4 7
224 Roaming Pleasant Hands f4 20
225 A Few Moves For New Love f3 24
226 Cutlery Creates Confusion f2 22
227 Little Person's Path f3 21
228 Low High Traverse f5+ 7
  Hueco Block Area
230 Easy wall f4 6
Climb name Grade
231 Uphill Arete f6B v3  
232 Ape Hour f7A+ v7 ** 6
233 Hueco Arete f5 38
234 Hueco Arete Eliminate f6A * 2
235 Blackstone Slab f6A+ v2/3 * 24
236 Be Strict f6C 4
237 Be Skilful f6A ** 28
238 Be Less Skilful f5 * 7
239 Nothing Cubed f4 19
240 Cuban f6A+ 36
241 Cube Root
-
f6C 3
242 Cubic Crack f6B+ 14
243 Cube All f6A 10
244 Shortarse f6B+ v4 20
245 One Stop Pop Shop f7A v6 * 4
246 Nick's Traverse f7A+ v7 *** 4
247 Hand Rail f6A * 1
248 Crack Left f6B+ v4 * 4
  Short Routes
250 The Bounder f4+ 7
251 Rough Life f4 4
252 Naomi's Wall f6B * 3
253 Curving Arete f5+ 7
254 I know f3 10
255 Easy Peasy f2 11
256 Stay Cool f5 25
257 Another! f4+ 27
258 Two f5 26
259 Easier Peasier f2 17
260 Who? Me? f4+ 27
261 Rubbery f5 26
262 Relief f2 8
263 Slight f4 11
264 Porage f2 9
265 Feet f4+ 14
266 Balance f4+ 16
267 Steppin' Out f4+ 13
268 Foot Business f5 20
269 Leaning to the Left of Sloper f6A ** 12
270 Softly Softly f6A+ * 11
271 Catchee Monkey f3 * 5
272 Beginning f2 12
273 End f2 12
274 Forward Straight f2 12
275 Cornered f2 12
276 Floating Wigs f4+ 3
277 Larn Summat f6B 1
278 Ruler Fooler f6B * 1
279 Old Silky f6A 3
280 Old Milky f5+ 2
281 Old Milky Sit Start f6A 1
282 Pinnochio f6A  
283 You There f3 6
284 You There ( Sit start) f6A 6
285 Look Here f5 5
286 Look Here (Sit start) f6A 8
287 Just Do It f4 6
288 Just Do It Sit
-
f6A 7
289 Pheasant Walk f3 * 12
290 Grouse Mate f5 9
291 Famous Grouse V0+ 4
292 Subtletease f4 ** 22
293 Hamstring Hardship V3 1
294 Paw Print f3 ** 23
295 Queasy Face f5 7
296 Queasy Face Sit
-
f5+ 3
297 Look to Windward f5+ ** 6
298 Look to Windward Sit
-
f6A+ ** 2
299 Andrex Guppy f5+ ** 6
300 Andrex Guppy Sit
-
f6A ** 3
  Beyond
302 Crimpemup f6B+ 3
303 Dodgem f4+ 7
304 The Skelter f6B 7
305 Helter Felt Ya f6A 1
306 Merry Go Rounded f3 9
307 Backseat Climber f5 6
308 Granny's Got Moves f4 7
309 Grandad's Hard to Hold f6C 2
310 Nooks and Grannies f4 5
311 Let Loose the Lion f6B 6
312 Get Horny f3 8
313 The Rantle f7A * 3
314 Something from the Attic f5 6
315 Shelf Life f6B 3
316 Pack Up and Go f6A 1
317 Udge Repellant f6C 1
318 The Fop is on Form f6B+ * 1
319 Dandy Gets Handy f6A+ 2
320 Chalk the Talk f7A 5
321 Custom Eyes f6C *  
322 Custom Eyes (Long Man's Way) f6A 1
323 Aesthete's Foot f6B+ * 2
324 Merci Moi f7A 1
  Back of Beyond
326 Fragmen f4 8
327 Illustrion f3 8
328 Scultis f3 8
329 Kescate f3 8
330 Swingers f7A * 18
331 Porital f4+ 4
332 Return of the Swing f7A+ * 7
333 Luna f6B+ v4 ** 4
334 Kraken f6A+ v3 * 3
335 Leviathan f6B+  
336 Levithian Right f6C v5 * 2
337 Handwarmer f6A 2
338 Legwarmer f4+ 4
339 Ribbed for Applause f4+ 3
340 Step into the light f6B * 2
341 Sneak up the Right f6B+  
342 Don't Stop to Fight f6B  
343 The Butcher f6B v3 4
  New Additions
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer harold walmsley