Climbs 318
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 470m a.s.l
Faces W

The Edge © Maciek Plonczynski

Crag features

Right in the heart of Bronte country. Not much in the HVS range, but plenty for the low-grade E climber. Aspect means it can be green, but pleasant in the summer. Lots of nice interesting bouldering scattered all around, potential for some new harder lines possibly.

Approach notes

Park at The White House pub as for Cow's Mouth Quarry, the path towards Blackstone edge is just on the other side of the road.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Great venue, one of the best you'll find in the Lancs bouldering guide! some great problems especially between the 5+ and 6B grades
Ehmarra - 31/May/16
Decent bouldering circuit over three areas. Not much above 7a but a complete mixbag of climbs around 6a-6c mark.
rice boy - 29/May/08
Some superb problems here. You just need to hunt them out. Give it 48 hours to dry after rain in Winter. An excellent venue.
bentley's biceps - 16/Mar/08
green green green green green I'm sure it'd be fine if we hadn't had 5 weeks of rain though.....
rginns - 23/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Crag: Routes
2 Phase Change
-
E1 5c *  
3 Slim Jim VS 5a 3
4 Manibus et Pedibusque E4 6a *  
5 Nor Nor' Chimney VD 19
6 North Chimney
-
M 8
7 North Cave M 13
8 North cave direct start VS 4c 1
9 Belly on a Plate VS 4c 10
10 The Mangler VS 5a * 10
11 Cornflake E2 5c *  
12 Central Eliminate VS 5a 11
13 Central Crack VD ** 48
14 Central Groove S 4b 36
15 Descent Chimney
-
D 2
16 Master Ego E2 5c 2
17 Little Miss Id Variations E3 6a *  
18 Little Miss Id E1 5c ** 15
19 Tryche E4 6a * 4
20 Pots E2 5c  
21 Outside Edge VS 4c * 6
22 South Chimney D * 31
23 Twin Cracks D 42
24 Palmistry E2 5c * 2
25 No Sign of Three E2 5c * 8
26 Slin and Thippy E4 6a 1
27 Pendulum Swing Direct HVS 5a 7
28 Pendulum Swing VS 4c 29
  South Crag: Routes
30 Black
-
HVS 5a 2
31 Stone
-
D 3
32 Edge
-
VS 4c 1
33 Overlook
-
HVS 5b * 1
34 The Blighter
-
S 4a 3
35 Yes
-
S 4a 3
36 More
-
S 4a 5
37 Who? Me?
-
VS 4b 2
38 Makeweight
-
D 1
39 Steppin' Out HS 4b 2
40 Solitary
-
E2 5c 1
41 Right Route
-
VS 5a 1
42 Grit Appeal HVS 5a * 2
43 Reach Man HVS 5a * 2
44 Oh No You Don't! HVS 5a * 2
  North Crag, Bouldering
46 Master Ego Trav f6A 2
47 1975 f7A v6 * 4
48 Calibration V7 1
49 Recalibrate f7B v8 * 6
50 Recalibrate (Standing Start) f6A * 4
51 Wrestle Down the Wind
-
f7B 1
52 Main Wall Traverse * 5a 1
  Balcony Wall
54 Sturlup f4 7
55 Greenflint f4+ 7
56 Greenflint (sit)
-
f6A 3
57 Dansten f3 7
58 Naradame f4 7
59 Argel f4 5
60 Riffless f3 6
61 Purousten f3+ 6
62 Shalling f3 5
63 Shalling Sitter
-
f6C * 4
  Central Boulders
65 Get Set f5 9
66 Diversion and On f5+ 13
67 Concavity Cons Gravity f6B v3 * 14
68 Robin's Dyno f6C v5 * 3
69 Underway f5+ v3 14
70 Fridge Hugger f7B+ v9 *** 6
71 Fridge Hugger (standing) f6A+ * 9
72 We are not Amused f5+ 1
73 We are not Confused f5 1
74 Blackstone Best f6B v3 5
75 Wall f5+ v1 5
76 Nosey Thing f5+ 9
77 The Easy Mantel f6A 7
78 Backside Slab f5+ 6
79 Lippy Traverse f6C 1
80 Ugly Duckling f3  
81 The Fortress f5 3
82 The Fortress Arete f4 * 6
83 The Cracks f4 1
84 Slopey Wall f6C v5 1
85 Short and Salty f5 6
86 The Midget Miracle f6C 4
87 Mini Right Arete. f5  
88 Elixir f7A+ v7 ** 1
89 Robin's Slap f6B+ v4 * 4
90 One mover f5 3
91 Yee-Ha f6B+  
92 Off-side f5+ * 1
93 Offwidth Your Head f6B  
94 Proper Job f6C *  
95 Pony Club f7A ** 2
96 Fall and Chains f6C+  
97 Recess f6B+  
98 Game of Groans f6C+ 1
99 Poundsaver f7A  
100 Basic Tech f6B  
101 Confessed Obsessed f6C  
102 Gnome Arete f5+ 2
103 Hero f7A **  
104 Tricepatops f6C  
105 Newfangled Slaptop f5+ 1
106 Happy Mole Man f6C+ * 1
107 Lungefish f5+ * 2
108 Slowfish f6B  
109 The Right Honourable Runnel
-
f6B * 1
110 Anvilette f5+ 2
111 Oh Dear f6A  
112 Oh My f6A 1
113 Eager Beaver f6B  
  Back Edge
115 Nik's Groove f7A v6 * 1
116 Squashed Nose f6B+ v4  
117 Nik's Left f6B+ v4 * 2
118 Nik's Arete f6B+ v4 * 1
119 The Big Crack Thing f5 5
120 Nik's Slap f6C+ v5 * 1
121 Bum Fiend f5+  
122 Nibble My Grit f4  
123 Hand Holed f6B * 1
124 Try me f4  
125 Try Me (sit start)
-
f6C 1
126 Home Improvements f6C+ * 3
127 Home Improvements Right f7A 4
128 Patiopia f7A *  
129 Sergeant Jump f6A 4
130 Cocklewarmer f5+ 2
131 Groove is in the Art f5 1
132 Frog Legs f4 2
133 Amy Pond f4 7
134 Ricki Lake f4 9
135 Ricki Lake (Sit) f6A 3
136 Billy Ocean f4 10
137 Billy Ocean (Sit) f6A+ 3
138 Spaghetti Limbs f6B 9
139 The Sneak f3+ 3
140 The Runnel f5+ 7
141 Pocket Dyno f6B+ v4 * 6
142 Polly Pocket f6C v5 * 5
143 Pocket arete f6A v2 8
144 No Pocket No Cry f5 2
145 No Pocket, No Cry (Sit Start)
-
f6B 3
146 Free and Easy f4+ 3
  Slopey Top Area
148 Wigeon f5  
149 The Wodge f7A+ *  
150 The Wedge f7A ** 1
151 Wedge Witch f6A 1
152 Ledge Itch f6B 1
153 Obstinate Bactrian f6C  
154 Deft Cleft f6C 1
155 Foxy Furtlings f7B v8 *  
156 Nutrition f6B v3 1
157 Lock Stock and Smoking Heel f6C+ * 1
158 Boozy Brawler f7A v6 * 2
159 Bottomless Git f6B+ v4 1
160 The Lady's not for Gurning f7B v8 * 5
161 Soul Calibre V5 * 1
162 The Iron Lady f7A * 1
163 Hand Me Frowns f7A  
164 Insouciance f7A *  
165 Blundercut f4  
166 Flip Me f6C  
167 Leg Sandwich f5+  
168 Stacked Like Arnie f6A+  
169 The Shelfish Way f6C  
170 Checkout f6A  
171 The Underdog f7A+ * 1
172 Sharpe f7A+ 2
173 Harper f6B 1
  Trig Point Boulders
175 Fine and Dandy f4 13
176 Time for Tweed f3 12
177 Pockington Lane f6B v4 * 27
178 Pockington Lane from standing f6A 7
179 Grrr f5 8
180 Grrr (sit)
-
f6B 5
181 Finders Fee f4 10
182 Minutiae f5+ 5
183 Trigger f6B+ v4 5
184 Trig Crack f3 4
185 Trig Slab f6A v2 * 21
186 Trig Arete f6C v5 * 15
187 Trig ArĂȘte from standing f6B+ * 2
188 Trigonomy f6A * 12
189 Trig Wall f3+ * 2
190 Trig Point Flake f2 * 2
191 No Nonsense f5+ 5
192 The Lushering f7A * 8
193 Done Years Ago f6B * 5
194 Con Air f7A ** 17
195 Paggered f6B+  
196 Sly Way f6A+ 3
197 Green and Black f6A+ * 2
198 Troll Mohican f6B+  
199 Cleft of the Brave f5+ ** 3
200 Fissure of Fear f6A * 1
201 Last Lash f6A 1
202 Turnpike Roof f7A 1
203 Vanguard f7A 1
204 Crackonomy f5+  
205 Belly Bouncer f6A 1
206 Go that Way f6B 2
207 Go Low f6B 5
208 Go this Way f6B+ 2
  Easy Wall
210 First Laugh f5+ 14
211 First Laugh (stand up)
-
f3 3
212 Keep Laughing f5 3
213 Under a Dark Dream f4 * 16
214 Roaming Under a Dark Dream of Pleasant Pugs f4 5
215 Roaming Pleasant Hands f4 15
216 A Few Moves For New Love f3 15
217 Cutlery Creates Confusion f2 15
218 Little Person's Path f3 14
219 Low High Traverse f5+ 6
  Hueco Block Area
221 Easy wall f4 5
222 Uphill Arete f6B v3  
223 Ape Hour f7A+ v7 ** 4
224 Hueco Arete f5 31
225 Hueco Arete Eliminate f6A * 2
226 Blackstone Slab f6A+ v2/3 * 20
227 Be Strict f6C 3
228 Be Skilful f6A ** 23
229 Be Less Skilful f5 * 7
230 Nothing Cubed f4 16
231 Cuban f6A+ 31
232 Cube Root
-
f6C 3
233 Cubic Crack f6B+ 11
234 Cube All f6A 9
235 Shortarse f6B+ v4 15
236 One Stop Pop Shop f7A v6 * 3
237 Nick's Traverse f7A+ v7 *** 4
238 Hand Rail f6A * 1
239 Crack Left f6B+ v4 * 4
  Short Routes
241 The Bounder f4+ 6
242 Rough Life f4 3
243 Naomi's Wall f6B * 2
244 Curving Arete f5+ 5
245 I know f3 7
246 Easy Peasy f2 6
247 Stay Cool f5 20
248 Another! f4+ 21
249 Two f5 22
250 Easier Peasier f2 13
251 Who? Me? f4+ 22
252 Rubbery f5 21
253 Relief f2 6
254 Slight f4 7
255 Porage f2 6
256 Feet f4+ 12
257 Balance f4+ 13
258 Steppin' Out f4+ 11
259 Foot Business f5 18
260 Leaning to the Left of Sloper f6A ** 10
261 Softly Softly f6A+ * 8
262 Catchee Monkey f3 * 4
263 Beginning f2 9
264 End f2 9
265 Forward Straight f2 9
266 Cornered f2 9
267 Floating Wigs f4+ 2
268 Larn Summat f6B 1
269 Ruler Fooler f6B * 1
270 Old Silky f6A 3
271 Old Milky f5+ 1
272 Pinnochio f6A  
273 You There f3 4
274 You There ( Sit start) f6A 5
275 Look Here f5 3
276 Look Here (Sit start) f6A 6
277 Just Do It f4 4
278 Just Do It Sit
-
f6A 4
279 Pheasant Walk f3 * 8
280 Grouse Mate f5 5
281 Famous Grouse * V0+ 5b 1
282 Subtletease f4 ** 17
283 Paw Print f3 ** 17
284 Queasy Face f5 5
285 Queasy Face Sit
-
f5+ 2
286 Look to Windward f5+ ** 6
287 Look to Windward Sit
-
f6A+ ** 2
288 Andrex Guppy f5+ ** 6
289 Andrex Guppy Sit
-
f6A ** 3
  Beyond
291 Crimpemup f6B+ 3
292 Dodgem f4+ 6
293 The Skelter f6B 6
294 Merry Go Rounded f3 7
295 Backseat Climber f5 4
296 Granny's Got Moves f4 5
297 Grandad's Hard to Hold f6C 1
298 Nooks and Grannies f4 3
299 Let Loose the Lion f6B 4
300 Get Horny f3 5
301 The Rantle f7A * 3
302 Something from the Attic f5 4
303 Shelf Life f6B 2
304 Pack Up and Go f6A 1
305 Udge Repellant f6C 1
306 The Fop is on Form f6B+ * 1
307 Dandy Gets Handy f6A+ 2
308 Chalk the Talk f7A 2
309 Custom Eyes f6C *  
310 Custom Eyes (Long Man's Way) f6A 1
311 Aesthete's Foot f6B+ * 2
312 Merci Moi f7A 1
  Back of Beyond
314 Fragmen f4 6
315 Illustrion f3 6
316 Scultis f3 6
317 Kescate f3 6
318 Swingers f7A * 6
319 Porital f4+ 2
320 Return of the Swing f7A+ * 1
321 Luna f6B+ v4 ** 3
322 Kraken f6A+ v3 * 3
323 Leviathan f6B+  
324 Levithian Right f6C v5 * 2
325 Handwarmer f6A 1
326 Legwarmer f4+ 1
327 Ribbed for Applause f4+ 1
328 Step into the light f6B * 2
329 Sneak up the Right f6B+  
330 Don't Stop to Fight f6B  
331 The Butcher f6B v3 3
  New Additions
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer harold walmsley