UKC

Climbs 325
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 470m a.s.l
Faces W

The Edge © Maciek Plonczynski

Crag features

Right in the heart of Bronte country. Not much in the HVS range, but plenty for the low-grade E climber. Aspect means it can be green, but pleasant in the summer. Lots of nice interesting bouldering scattered all around, potential for some new harder lines possibly.

Approach notes

Park at The White House pub as for Cow's Mouth Quarry, the path towards Blackstone edge is just on the other side of the road.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Great venue, one of the best you'll find in the Lancs bouldering guide! some great problems especially between the 5+ and 6B grades
Ehmarra - 31/May/16
Decent bouldering circuit over three areas. Not much above 7a but a complete mixbag of climbs around 6a-6c mark.
rice boy - 29/May/08
Some superb problems here. You just need to hunt them out. Give it 48 hours to dry after rain in Winter. An excellent venue.
bentley's biceps - 16/Mar/08
green green green green green I'm sure it'd be fine if we hadn't had 5 weeks of rain though.....
rginns - 23/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  North Crag: Routes
2 Phase Change
-
E1 5c *  
3 Slim Jim VS 5a * 3
4 Manibus et Pedibusque E4 6a *  
5 Nor Nor' Chimney VD 19
6 North Chimney
-
M 8
7 North Cave M 13
8 North cave direct start VS 4c 1
9 Belly on a Plate VS 4c 10
10 The Mangler VS 5a ** 10
11 Cornflake E2 5c *  
12 Central Eliminate VS 5a 11
13 Central Crack VD ** 48
14 Central Groove S 4b * 36
15 Descent Chimney
-
D 2
16 Master Ego E2 5c 2
17 Little Miss Id Variations E3 6a *  
18 Little Miss Id E2 5c ** 11
19 Tryche E5 6a ** 4
20 Pots E2 5c  
21 Outside Edge VS 4c * 6
22 South Chimney D * 31
23 Twin Cracks D 42
24 Palmistry E2 5c * 2
25 No Sign of Three E2 5c ** 6
26 Swot and Heaty E4 6a *  
27 Doomidest Hay E5 6b *  
28 Slin and Thippy E4 6a 1
29 Pendulum Swing Direct HVS 5a 7
30 Pendulum Swing VS 4c * 29
  South Crag: Routes
32 Black
-
HVS 5a 2
33 Stone
-
D 3
34 Edge
-
VS 4c 1
35 Overlook
-
HVS 5b * 1
36 The Blighter
-
S 4a 3
37 Yes
-
S 4a 3
38 More
-
S 4a 5
39 Who? Me?
-
VS 4b 2
40 Makeweight
-
D 1
41 Steppin' Out HS 4b 2
42 Solitary
-
E2 5c 1
43 Right Route
-
VS 5a 1
44 Grit Appeal HVS 5a * 2
45 Reach Man HVS 5a * 2
46 Oh No You Don't! HVS 5a * 2
  North Crag, Bouldering
48 Master Ego Trav f6A 2
49 1975 f7A v6 * 6
50 Calibration V7 3
51 Recalibrate f7B v8 * 8
52 Recalibrate (Standing Start) f6A * 4
53 Wrestle Down the Wind
-
f7B 1
54 Main Wall Traverse * 5a 1
  Balcony Wall
56 Sturlup f4 8
57 Sturlup Sit Start f5 1
58 Greenflint f4+ 7
59 Greenflint (sit)
-
f6A 3
60 Dansten f3 7
61 Naradame f4 7
62 Argel f4 5
63 Riffless f3 6
64 Purousten f3+ 6
65 Shalling f3 5
66 Shalling Sitter
-
f6C * 4
  Central Boulders
68 Get Set f5 10
69 Diversion and On f5+ 14
70 Concavity Cons Gravity f6B v3 * 15
71 Robin's Dyno f6C v5 * 4
72 Underway f5+ v3 15
73 Fridge Hugger f7B+ v9 *** 6
74 Fridge Hugger (standing) f6A+ * 10
75 We are not Amused f5+ 2
76 We are not Confused f5 2
77 Blackstone Best f6B v3 5
78 Wall f5+ v1 6
79 Nosey Thing f5+ 9
80 The Easy Mantel f6A 7
81 Backside Slab f5+ 6
82 Lippy Traverse f6C 1
83 Ugly Duckling f3  
84 The Fortress f5 3
85 The Fortress Arete f4 * 6
86 The Cracks f4 1
87 Slopey Wall f6C v5 1
88 Short and Salty f5 6
89 The Midget Miracle f6C 4
90 Mini Right Arete. f5  
91 Elixir f7A+ v7 ** 1
92 Robin's Slap f6B+ v4 * 4
93 One mover f5 3
94 Yee-Ha f6B+  
95 Off-side f5+ * 1
96 Offwidth Your Head f6B  
97 Proper Job f6C *  
98 Pony Club f7A ** 2
99 Fall and Chains f6C+  
100 Recess f6B+  
101 Game of Groans f6C+ 1
102 Poundsaver f7A  
103 Basic Tech f6B  
104 Confessed Obsessed f6C  
105 Gnome Arete f5+ 2
106 Hero f7A **  
107 Tricepatops f6C  
108 Newfangled Slaptop f5+ 1
109 Happy Mole Man f6C+ * 1
110 Lungefish f5+ * 2
111 Slowfish f6B  
112 The Right Honourable Runnel
-
f6B * 2
113 Anvilette f5+ 3
Climb name Grade
114 Oh Dear f6A  
115 Oh My f6A 1
116 Eager Beaver f6B  
  Back Edge
118 Nik's Groove f7A v6 * 1
119 Squashed Nose f6B+ v4  
120 Nik's Left f6B+ v4 * 2
121 Nik's Arete f6B+ v4 * 1
122 The Big Crack Thing f5 5
123 Nik's Slap f6C+ v5 * 1
124 Bum Fiend f5+ 1
125 Nibble My Grit f4  
126 Hand Holed f6B * 1
127 Try me f4  
128 Try Me (sit start)
-
f6C 1
129 Home Improvements f6C+ * 4
130 Home Improvements Right f7A 5
131 Patiopia f7A *  
132 Sergeant Jump f6A 5
133 Cocklewarmer f5+ 2
134 Groove is in the Art f5 2
135 Frog Legs f4 2
136 Amy Pond f4 7
137 Ricki Lake f4 9
138 Ricki Lake (Sit) f6A 3
139 Billy Ocean f4 10
140 Billy Ocean (Sit) f6A+ 4
141 Spaghetti Limbs f6B 9
142 The Sneak f3+ 3
143 The Runnel f5+ 7
144 Pocket Dyno f6B+ v4 * 6
145 Polly Pocket f6C v5 * 5
146 Pocket arete f6A v2 8
147 No Pocket No Cry f5 2
148 No Pocket, No Cry (Sit Start)
-
f6B 3
149 Free and Easy f4+ 3
  Slopey Top Area
151 Wigeon f5  
152 The Wodge f7A+ *  
153 The Wedge f7A ** 1
154 Wedge Witch f6A 1
155 Ledge Itch f6B 1
156 Obstinate Bactrian f6C  
157 Deft Cleft f6C 1
158 Foxy Furtlings f7B v8 *  
159 Nutrition f6B v3 1
160 Lock Stock and Smoking Heel f6C+ * 1
161 Boozy Brawler f7A v6 * 2
162 Bottomless Git f6B+ v4 1
163 Stan's a gurner f7A+ ** 1
164 The Lady's not for Gurning f7B v8 * 7
165 Soul Calibre V5 * 1
166 The Iron Lady f7A * 1
167 Hand Me Frowns f7A  
168 Insouciance f7A *  
169 Blundercut f4  
170 Flip Me f6C  
171 Leg Sandwich f5+  
172 Stacked Like Arnie f6A+  
173 The Shelfish Way f6C  
174 Checkout f6A  
175 The Underdog f7A+ * 1
176 Sharpe f7A+ 3
177 Harper f6B 1
  Trig Point Boulders
179 Fine and Dandy f4 14
180 Time for Tweed f3 13
181 Pockington Lane f6B v4 * 30
182 Pockington Lane from standing f6A 8
183 Grrr f5 9
184 Grrr (sit)
-
f6B 5
185 Finders Fee f4 11
186 Minutiae f5+ 6
187 Trigger f6B+ v4 5
188 Trig Crack f3 5
189 Trig Slab f6A v2 * 23
190 Trig Arete f6C v5 * 16
191 Trig ArĂȘte from standing f6B+ * 4
192 Trigonomy f6A * 13
193 Trig Wall f3+ * 2
194 Trig Point Flake f2 * 2
195 No Nonsense f5+ 6
196 The Lushering f7A * 10
197 Done Years Ago f6B * 8
198 Con Air f7A ** 20
199 Paggered f6B+ 1
200 Sly Way f6A+ 4
201 Green and Black f6A+ * 3
202 Troll Mohican f6B+  
203 Cleft of the Brave f5+ ** 3
204 Fissure of Fear f6A * 2
205 Last Lash f6A 1
206 Turnpike Roof f7A 1
207 Vanguard f7A 1
208 Crackonomy f5+  
209 Belly Bouncer f6A 1
210 Go that Way f6B 3
211 Go Low f6B 5
212 Go this Way f6B+ 2
213 Trigonomy (sit start) * f6A+ 1
  Easy Wall
215 First Laugh f5+ 15
216 First Laugh (stand up)
-
f3 4
217 Keep Laughing f5 4
218 Under a Dark Dream f4 * 17
219 Roaming Under a Dark Dream of Pleasant Pugs f4 5
220 Roaming Pleasant Hands f4 17
221 A Few Moves For New Love f3 17
222 Cutlery Creates Confusion f2 17
223 Little Person's Path f3 16
224 Low High Traverse f5+ 7
  Hueco Block Area
226 Easy wall f4 5
Climb name Grade
227 Uphill Arete f6B v3  
228 Ape Hour f7A+ v7 ** 4
229 Hueco Arete f5 32
230 Hueco Arete Eliminate f6A * 2
231 Blackstone Slab f6A+ v2/3 * 20
232 Be Strict f6C 3
233 Be Skilful f6A ** 23
234 Be Less Skilful f5 * 7
235 Nothing Cubed f4 17
236 Cuban f6A+ 32
237 Cube Root
-
f6C 3
238 Cubic Crack f6B+ 11
239 Cube All f6A 9
240 Shortarse f6B+ v4 16
241 One Stop Pop Shop f7A v6 * 4
242 Nick's Traverse f7A+ v7 *** 4
243 Hand Rail f6A * 1
244 Crack Left f6B+ v4 * 4
  Short Routes
246 The Bounder f4+ 7
247 Rough Life f4 4
248 Naomi's Wall f6B * 3
249 Curving Arete f5+ 7
250 I know f3 9
251 Easy Peasy f2 8
252 Stay Cool f5 21
253 Another! f4+ 24
254 Two f5 24
255 Easier Peasier f2 15
256 Who? Me? f4+ 24
257 Rubbery f5 23
258 Relief f2 7
259 Slight f4 8
260 Porage f2 7
261 Feet f4+ 13
262 Balance f4+ 14
263 Steppin' Out f4+ 12
264 Foot Business f5 20
265 Leaning to the Left of Sloper f6A ** 11
266 Softly Softly f6A+ * 8
267 Catchee Monkey f3 * 4
268 Beginning f2 9
269 End f2 9
270 Forward Straight f2 9
271 Cornered f2 9
272 Floating Wigs f4+ 3
273 Larn Summat f6B 1
274 Ruler Fooler f6B * 1
275 Old Silky f6A 3
276 Old Milky f5+ 2
277 Old Milky Sit Start f6A 1
278 Pinnochio f6A  
279 You There f3 4
280 You There ( Sit start) f6A 6
281 Look Here f5 3
282 Look Here (Sit start) f6A 8
283 Just Do It f4 4
284 Just Do It Sit
-
f6A 6
285 Pheasant Walk f3 * 10
286 Grouse Mate f5 7
287 Famous Grouse V0+ 3
288 Subtletease f4 ** 19
289 Paw Print f3 ** 19
290 Queasy Face f5 5
291 Queasy Face Sit
-
f5+ 2
292 Look to Windward f5+ ** 6
293 Look to Windward Sit
-
f6A+ ** 2
294 Andrex Guppy f5+ ** 6
295 Andrex Guppy Sit
-
f6A ** 3
296 Hamstring Hardship * V3 1
  Beyond
298 Crimpemup f6B+ 3
299 Dodgem f4+ 6
300 The Skelter f6B 6
301 Merry Go Rounded f3 7
302 Backseat Climber f5 4
303 Granny's Got Moves f4 5
304 Grandad's Hard to Hold f6C 1
305 Nooks and Grannies f4 3
306 Let Loose the Lion f6B 4
307 Get Horny f3 5
308 The Rantle f7A * 3
309 Something from the Attic f5 5
310 Shelf Life f6B 3
311 Pack Up and Go f6A 1
312 Udge Repellant f6C 1
313 The Fop is on Form f6B+ * 1
314 Dandy Gets Handy f6A+ 2
315 Chalk the Talk f7A 2
316 Custom Eyes f6C *  
317 Custom Eyes (Long Man's Way) f6A 1
318 Aesthete's Foot f6B+ * 2
319 Merci Moi f7A 1
  Back of Beyond
321 Fragmen f4 6
322 Illustrion f3 6
323 Scultis f3 6
324 Kescate f3 6
325 Swingers f7A * 8
326 Porital f4+ 2
327 Return of the Swing f7A+ * 3
328 Luna f6B+ v4 ** 3
329 Kraken f6A+ v3 * 3
330 Leviathan f6B+  
331 Levithian Right f6C v5 * 2
332 Handwarmer f6A 2
333 Legwarmer f4+ 2
334 Ribbed for Applause f4+ 1
335 Step into the light f6B * 2
336 Sneak up the Right f6B+  
337 Don't Stop to Fight f6B  
338 The Butcher f6B v3 3
  New Additions
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer harold walmsley