Climbs 166
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 499m a.s.l
Faces W

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The stupendous Great Buttress © andybirtwistle

Crag features

Dovestone Tor is the most significant of a series of outcrops overlooking the flooded Derwent valley. It is well worth a visit if you want to escape the crowds. Having said that, nice summer weekends can be surprisingly busy up here nowadays. The cliff is a long west-facing wall riddled with many circular holes. The rock can be dirty, especially after rain, but the outlook is as fine as any cliff in the Peak and sunny afternoons spent here can be enthralling with superb views out into the wilderness of Bleaklow. Developments in the 1990s increased the number of routes listed here markedly, though many of the climbs done at this time will have been climbed in the past but were never recorded.

Approach notes

Dovestone Tor is situated high above Ladybower Reservoir. There are two main approaches:

1) Cutthroat Bridge (50 mins walk). Park in the lay-by on the A57 above Cutthroat Bridge, or in the bigger pull-off further up the hill if this is full. From the bridge, pick up one of two paths up to the crest of the moor, where a right turn leads past some good bouldering, to the Tor.

2) Foulstone Delf near the Strines Inn (40 mins walk). Park on the bend opposite the gated track and follow it past the shooting lodge and up to the crest of the ridge, then turn left (south) onto the flagged path which leads to Dovestone Tor, Back Tor is to the right at the junction. WARNING - Both parking areas, especially Foulstone Delf are visited regularly by thieves. Leave nothing in your car.

Note there is no longer any parking at the start of the path just north of Strines. There is space for 4 or 5 cars 1km further north on the right-hand side of the road (Hall Lane, SK 227909).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Roof of Mantels
2 Roof of Mantels V4 * 5
3 Andy's Arête Left-hand V7 * 3
4 Andy's Arête V6 ** 9
  North Bouldering
6 Flagstone Roof Left f5 * 1
7 Flagstone Roof Right f6A+ * 1
8 Odd Block f5 * 1
9 Arched Roof f4 * 1
10 Arch Right f4 * 1
11 Chicken Head f5 **  
12 Roof Route f6C *  
13 Low Roof Left f5+ *  
14 Low Roof Middle f6A+ ** 4
15 Low Roof Right f5+ ** 2
16 Low Roof Right Right V1 2
17 Stone Dove Sidewall f4 5
18 Stone Dove Left f5 ** 6
19 Stone Dove Right f5 * 2
20 Stone Dove Crack f4+ * 7
21 Chicken Head Rockover f5 ** 3
22 Squawk Traverse Direct f7A+ * 1
23 Squawk Traverse f6C ** 1
24 Squawk HVS 5b 8
25 Squawk Low f6B *  
26 Sick as a Parrot HVS 5a 11
27 Sick Bay VS 4b * 23
28 Handy Wall Hole S 4a 85
29 Thunderbirds S 4a 33
30 Woodentops S 4a 68
31 Stingray HVD 4a * 135
32 Stingray Arête f5+ *** 30
33 Galaxy Dove f7A * 3
34 Galaxy Dove, Sit-start
-
f7A+  
35 Interstellar Pigeon f7A+ ** 1
36 The Cavendish f4+ 7
37 Ouch!
-
V0+  
38 Jug of Justice f5 4
  Dovestones Boulder
40 Perfect Porthole Problem f5+ *** 50
41 Huway-cold f5+ * 9
42 Huway-day f5 ** 17
43 Half a World Huway f7A 2
44 Hip Hip Huway f6C+  
45 Play Huway f5 ** 19
46 Huway in a Manger f6B+ * 1
47 Up Up and Huway f4 * 29
48 A World Huway V0 1
49 Curving Arête f6B *** 11
50 The Dove from Above f7B+ ** 2
51 The Crow from Below f7A+ ** 1
52 Small Roof Left f6A+ 2
53 Small Roof Right f6B 5
  Titania Area
55 Windblasted D * 218
56 Windblown VD * 218
57 Domusnovas E2 5c 20
58 Jonah D * 125
Climb name Grade
59 Tight 'uns VS 5a 69
60 Titanium VS 5a * 94
61 Titanic VS 4c ** 166
62 Titania VS 4c ** 201
63 Iltis HS 4b * 71
64 Pocket Rocket
-
VS 5b 2
65 Outflanked HVS 5b 13
66 Outfoxed VS 4c 10
67 Fox's Chimney M 39
68 Foulstone Wall VD 28
69 Finerock Rib HS 4b 24
70 Scrapyard Slab S 4a 39
71 Boneyard Buttress VD 65
72 Boneyard Arête
-
V3 11
73 The Compressor
-
V6 9
74 Black Crimp problem
-
V2 11
  The Great Buttress
76 Polecat VS 4b * 47
77 Poll Taxed S 4a 31
78 Pole-axed S 4a * 121
79 Jacobite's Route D * 153
80 Slow Cooker S 4a * 66
81 Slocum S 4a * 188
82 First Come HVS 5a 24
83 Gruyere VS 4c 53
84 Dovestones Gully D 22
85 Dovestones Edge S 4a * 97
86 Dovestones Wall VD ** 248
87 A Little Green Eyed God VS 4c * 144
88 Barney Rubble VS 4c ** 299
89 Thread Flintstone E1 5b ** 55
90 Brown Windsor VS 4b * 68
91 Mock Turtle E1 5b 10
92 Great Buttress Eliminate HVS 5a * 18
93 Lament for a Scotsman
-
E2 5b  
94 Too Long Gone
-
E4 6b  
95 Great Buttress HVS 5a *** 350
96 Sforzando E5 6a ** 4
97 Central Climb VS 5a * 34
98 Fennario VS 4c * 43
99 Nippon, Nippoff E3 6a 1
100 Topside
-
S 4c 3
101 Frodsham 3a
-
S 2
  Gargoyle Buttress Area
103 The Diamond
-
V3 2
104 Gargoyle Traverse S 4a * 33
105 Caveman S 4b 18
106 Dead on a Rival E5 6b *  
107 Woodhouse's Wandering Way E2 5c 3
108 Stony Faced E1 5b * 16
109 Gargoyle Buttress VS 4c * 31
110 Barker's Got a Sweat On HVS 5a 5
111 Conservative Tendencies HS 4b 5
112 Canker HVD 53
113 Back Blast/Christmas Wrappings HVS 5b 3
114 Wind Tunnel M * 40
115 Hurricane VD * 52
116 Typhoon HVS 5b 2
Climb name Grade
117 Route 1 VS 4c *** 363
118 The Shylock Finish VS 5a ** 114
119 Blue Velvet E1 6a * 15
120 Claw Climb HVS 5a ** 61
121 Talon VS 4c * 89
122 Lancaster Flyby HVS 5b ** 245
123 Route II VS 4c 46
124 Blue Hare
-
VS 4c 4
125 Grindle Crack HVD 19
126 Grinder Wall
-
S 8
127 A'rete Do VD 15
128 Another Left Wall
-
S 6
129 Another Flaky Wall VD 6
130 Another Right Wall
-
S 1
131 Left Behind
-
HS 2
132 Frodsham 3c
-
VS 5a 2
133 Right Ahead
-
S 3
134 Stairway
-
D 7
135 Layby
-
VD 4
136 Pock Mark
-
S 3
  Upper Buttress
138 Barefoot D 133
139 Slab Happy S 4a 135
140 Step It Up S 4c 107
141 Groovy Moves S 4b 62
142 Jam On It HVS 5a 5
143 Squirm HVS 5a 4
144 Hang 'em High HS 5b 12
145 Chicken Head E2 5c * 6
146 Pleasant D 29
147 Spring Night E1 5c * 8
148 Autumn Day E1 5c ** 42
149 Stretch Marks E1 6a * 7
150 Razor Cut VS 4b 14
151 Rocky VD 38
152 Blocky HVD 4a 27
153 Hanging Tree HVS 5b 2
154 Easy Ground HVS 5b * 3
155 Excel HVS 5b ** 37
156 Swinwood E1 5b 13
157 Smokin' E1 5b 3
158 Landing Craft HVS 5b 3
159 Amen Corner HS 4c 5
160 Old Man's Corner VD 19
161 Village Green VS 5a 14
162 Lambo S 4b * 56
163 Bertie E1 5c * 8
164 Blunt HVS 5b * 9
165 Philby HVS 5b * 19
166 Granny Smith E1 5b * 1
167 Cox's Pippin HVS 5b * 8
168 Ganges VD 12
169 Crackless Bottom E1 5b 10
170 Soft Top E1 5a 15
  Unknow / New / Awaiting Moderation
172 Rock Huway
-
f7A * 1

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