Climbs 164
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces W

The stupendous Great Buttress © andybirtwistle

Crag features

The Derwent Edges are a line of weathered outcrops with a splendid outlook over the Derwent reservoirs. The longer approaches mean they are never busy, and you won't find any polished holds on the rough grit! With the exception of Dovestone Tor (20m) few outcrops are higher than 8m and coupled with recent bouldering developments make this a pleasant soloing venue. Dovestone Tor itself has many excellent routes, mainly in the low to middle grades, of which the best is Great Buttress (E1 5b).

Approach notes

Either:
From the gate (No parking here) just north of the Strines Inn at a bend in the road (SK 221909) follow a well-used path across the moor to the middle of the edge (40 min); or
From Parking in a large layby east of Cutthroat Bridge on the A55 Sheffield - Glossop road. Follow the footpath from the bridge, initially north then west to reach the southern end of the outcrops (50 min).

Note there is no longer any parking at the start of the path just north of Strines. There is space for 4 or 5 cars 1km further north on the right hand side of the road (Hall Lane, SK 227909).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Roof of Mantels
2 Roof of Mantels V4 f6b * 5
3 Andy's Arete Left-Hand V7 * 3
4 Andy's Arete V6 ** 7
  Left-Hand Blocks
6 Roof Route 2 V3 f 6a+ 1
7 Roof route 3 V1 f 5+ 1
  North Bouldering
9 Flagstone Roof Left f5 * 1
10 Flagstone Roof Right f6A+ * 1
11 Odd Block f5 * 1
12 Arched Roof f4 * 1
13 Arch Right f4 * 1
14 Chicken Head f5 **  
15 Roof Route f6C *  
16 Low Roof Left f5+ *  
17 Low Roof Middle f6A+ ** 2
18 Low Roof Right f5+ ** 1
19 Low Roof Right Right V1 2
20 Stone Dove Sidewall f4 5
21 Stone Dove Left f5 ** 6
22 Stone Dove Right f5 * 2
23 Stone Dove Crack f4+ * 5
24 Chicken Head Rockover f5 ** 2
25 Squawk HVS 5b 7
26 Squawk Traverse f6C ** 1
27 Squawk Traverse Direct f7A+ * 1
28 Squawk Low f6B *  
29 Sick as a Parrot HVS 5a 9
30 Sick Bay VS 4b * 17
31 Handy Wall Hole S 4a 80
32 Thunderbirds S 4a 30
33 Woodentops S 4a 66
34 Stingray HVD 4a * 122
35 Stingray Arete f5+ *** 29
36 Galaxy Dove f7A * 3
37 Interstellar Pigeon f7A+ ** 1
38 The Cavendish f4+ 7
39 Ouch!
-
V0+ 5b  
40 Jug of Justice f5 3
  Dovestones Boulder
42 Perfect Porthole Problem f5+ *** 44
43 Huway-cold f5+ * 9
44 Huway-day f5 ** 15
45 Half the World Huway f7A 1
46 Hip Hip Huway f6C+  
47 Play Huway f5 ** 18
48 Up Up and Huway f4 * 25
49 Curving Arete f6B *** 11
50 The Dove From Above f7B+ ** 2
51 The Crow from Below f7A+ ** 1
52 Small Roof Left f6A+ 2
53 Small Roof Right f6B 3
  Titania Area
55 Windblasted D * 189
56 Windblown VD * 191
57 Domusnovas E2 5c 19
58 Jonah D * 111
59 Tight 'uns VS 5a 60
60 Titanium VS 5a * 83
61 Titanic VS 4c ** 140
62 Titania VS 4c ** 180
63 Iltis HS 4b * 61
64 Pocket Rocket
-
VS 5b 1
65 Outflanked HVS 5b 12
66 Outfoxed VS 4c 7
67 Fox's Chimney M 33
68 Foulstone Wall VD 24
69 Finerock Rib HS 4b 22
70 Scrapyard Slab S 4a 33
71 Boneyard Buttress VD 58
72 Boneyard Arete
-
V3 6a 10
73 The Compressor
-
V6 6b 9
74 Black Crimp problem
-
V2 6a 10
75 Polecat VS 4b * 43
76 Poll Taxed S 4a 27
77 Pole-axed S 4a * 107
78 Jacobite's Route D * 135
79 Slow Cooker S 4a * 64
80 Slocum S 4a * 165
81 First Come HVS 5a 22
82 Gruyere VS 4c 48
  the Great Buttress
84 Dovestones Gully D 21
85 Dovestones Edge S 4a * 84
86 Dovestones Wall VD ** 221
87 A Little Green Eyed God VS 4c * 131
88 Barney Rubble VS 4c ** 279
89 Thread Flintstone E1 5b ** 48
90 Brown Windsor VS 4b * 61
91 Mock Turtle E1 5b 10
92 Great Buttress Eliminate HVS 5a * 17
93 Lament for a Scotsman
-
E2 5b  
94 Too Long Gone
-
E4 6b  
95 Great Buttress HVS 5a *** 349
96 Sforzando E5 6a ** 4
97 Central Climb VS 5a * 26
98 Fennario VS 4c * 35
99 Nippon, Nippoff E3 6a 1
100 Topside
-
S 4c 1
101 Frodsham 3a
-
S  
  Gargoyle Buttress Area
103 The Diamond
-
V3 6a 1
104 Gargoyle Traverse S 4a * 22
105 Caveman S 4b 15
106 Dead on a Rival E5 6b *  
107 Woodhouse's Wandering Way E2 5c 3
108 Stony Faced E1 5b * 14
109 Gargoyle Buttress VS 4c * 25
110 Barker's Got a Sweat On HVS 5a 4
111 Conservative Tendencies HS 4b 4
  Buttress 1
113 Canker HVD 42
114 Back Blast HVS 5b 1
115 Wind Tunnel M * 34
116 Hurricane VD * 48
117 Typhoon HVS 5b 1
118 Route 1 VS 4c *** 343
119 The Shylock Finish VS 5a ** 96
120 Blue Velvet E1 6a * 11
121 Claw Climb HVS 5a ** 55
122 Talon VS 4c * 75
123 Lancaster Flyby HVS 5b ** 239
124 Route II VS 4c 40
125 Blue Hare
-
VS 4c 2
126 Grindle Crack HVD 16
127 Grinder Wall
-
S 7
128 A'rete Do VD 9
129 Another Left Wall
-
S 5
130 Another Flaky Wall VD 2
131 Another Right Wall
-
S  
132 Left Behind
-
HS 1
133 Frodsham 3c
-
VS 5a 1
134 Right Ahead
-
S 2
135 Stairway
-
D 4
136 Layby
-
VD 3
137 Pock Mark
-
S 2
  Upper Buttress
139 Barefoot D 122
140 Slab Happy S 4a 125
141 Step It Up S 4c 102
142 Groovy Moves S 4b 57
143 Jam On It HVS 5a 4
144 Squirm HVS 5a 3
145 Hang 'em High HS 5b 9
146 Chicken Head E2 5c * 5
147 Pleasant D 28
148 Spring Night E1 5c * 6
149 Autumn Day E1 5c ** 37
150 Stretch Marks E1 6a * 6
151 Razor Cut VS 4b 12
152 Rocky VD 37
153 Blocky HVD 4a 27
154 Hanging Tree HVS 5b 1
155 Easy Ground HVS 5b * 1
156 Excel HVS 5b ** 35
157 Swinwood E1 5b 10
158 Smokin' E1 5b 2
159 Landing Craft HVS 5b 2
160 Amen Corner HS 4c 4
161 Old Man's Corner VD 18
162 Village Green VS 5a 12
163 Lambo S 4b * 53
164 Bertie E1 5c * 6
165 Blunt HVS 5b * 8
166 Philby HVS 5b * 18
167 Granny Smith E1 5b *  
168 Cox's Pippin HVS 5b * 6
169 Ganges VD 11
170 Crackless Bottom E1 5b 9
171 Soft Top E1 5a 13
  Unknow / New / Awaiting Moderation
173 Huway in a Manger
-
f6B+ * 1
174 Rock Huway
-
f7A * 1

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