UKC

Climbs 165
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 600m a.s.l
Faces W

The stupendous Great Buttress © andybirtwistle

Crag features

The Derwent Edges are a line of weathered outcrops with a splendid outlook over the Derwent reservoirs. The longer approaches mean they are never busy, and you won't find any polished holds on the rough grit! With the exception of Dovestone Tor (20m) few outcrops are higher than 8m and coupled with recent bouldering developments make this a pleasant soloing venue. Dovestone Tor itself has many excellent routes, mainly in the low to middle grades, of which the best is Great Buttress (E1 5b).

Approach notes

Either:
From the gate (No parking here) just north of the Strines Inn at a bend in the road (SK 221909) follow a well-used path across the moor to the middle of the edge (40 min); or
From Parking in a large layby east of Cutthroat Bridge on the A55 Sheffield - Glossop road. Follow the footpath from the bridge, initially north then west to reach the southern end of the outcrops (50 min).

Note there is no longer any parking at the start of the path just north of Strines. There is space for 4 or 5 cars 1km further north on the right hand side of the road (Hall Lane, SK 227909).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Eastern Grit

Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
More info

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
The walk from Cut Throat bridge is longer, but an easier angle with good views. If you are approaching the crag for the first time from this direction, it is probably easier to walk along the top on the good path to the northern end of the crag, and then drop down to the first buttress. The 'path' under the crag at the southern end (White Tor) isn't as good and the buttresses are well spread out.
Nick Smith - UKC - 31/Jul/08
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Roof of Mantels
2 Roof of Mantels V4 f6b * 5
3 Andy's Arete Left-Hand V7 * 3
4 Andy's Arete V6 ** 7
  Left-Hand Blocks
6 Roof Route 2 V3 f 6a+ 1
7 Roof route 3 V1 f 5+ 1
  North Bouldering
9 Flagstone Roof Left f5 * 1
10 Flagstone Roof Right f6A+ * 1
11 Odd Block f5 * 1
12 Arched Roof f4 * 1
13 Arch Right f4 * 1
14 Chicken Head f5 **  
15 Roof Route f6C *  
16 Low Roof Left f5+ *  
17 Low Roof Middle f6A+ ** 2
18 Low Roof Right f5+ ** 1
19 Low Roof Right Right V1 2
20 Stone Dove Sidewall f4 5
21 Stone Dove Left f5 ** 6
22 Stone Dove Right f5 * 2
23 Stone Dove Crack f4+ * 5
24 Chicken Head Rockover f5 ** 2
25 Squawk HVS 5b 7
26 Squawk Traverse f6C ** 1
27 Squawk Traverse Direct f7A+ * 1
28 Squawk Low f6B *  
29 Sick as a Parrot HVS 5a 9
30 Sick Bay VS 4b * 18
31 Handy Wall Hole S 4a 78
32 Thunderbirds S 4a 30
33 Woodentops S 4a 65
34 Stingray HVD 4a * 120
35 Stingray Arete f5+ *** 30
36 Galaxy Dove f7A * 3
37 Interstellar Pigeon f7A+ ** 1
38 The Cavendish f4+ 7
39 Ouch!
-
V0+ 5b  
40 Jug of Justice f5 3
  Dovestones Boulder
42 Perfect Porthole Problem f5+ *** 45
43 Huway-cold f5+ * 9
44 Huway-day f5 ** 15
45 Half the World Huway f7A 1
46 Hip Hip Huway f6C+  
47 Play Huway f5 ** 18
48 Up Up and Huway f4 * 25
49 A World Huway V0 1
50 Curving Arete f6B *** 11
51 The Dove From Above f7B+ ** 2
52 The Crow from Below f7A+ ** 1
53 Small Roof Left f6A+ 2
54 Small Roof Right f6B 3
  Titania Area
56 Windblasted D * 190
57 Windblown VD * 194
58 Domusnovas E2 5c 19
59 Jonah D * 110
Climb name Grade
60 Tight 'uns VS 5a 62
61 Titanium VS 5a * 84
62 Titanic VS 4c ** 143
63 Titania VS 4c ** 174
64 Iltis HS 4b * 60
65 Pocket Rocket
-
VS 5b 1
66 Outflanked HVS 5b 12
67 Outfoxed VS 4c 7
68 Fox's Chimney M 33
69 Foulstone Wall VD 25
70 Finerock Rib HS 4b 22
71 Scrapyard Slab S 4a 33
72 Boneyard Buttress VD 56
73 Boneyard Arete
-
V3 6a 10
74 The Compressor
-
V6 6b 9
75 Black Crimp problem
-
V2 6a 10
76 Polecat VS 4b * 43
77 Poll Taxed S 4a 28
78 Pole-axed S 4a * 106
79 Jacobite's Route D * 140
80 Slow Cooker S 4a * 64
81 Slocum S 4a * 166
82 First Come HVS 5a 22
83 Gruyere VS 4c 48
  the Great Buttress
85 Dovestones Gully D 21
86 Dovestones Edge S 4a * 85
87 Dovestones Wall VD ** 222
88 A Little Green Eyed God VS 4c * 129
89 Barney Rubble VS 4c ** 264
90 Thread Flintstone E1 5b ** 48
91 Brown Windsor VS 4b * 64
92 Mock Turtle E1 5b 10
93 Great Buttress Eliminate HVS 5a * 17
94 Lament for a Scotsman
-
E2 5b  
95 Too Long Gone
-
E4 6b  
96 Great Buttress HVS 5a *** 363
97 Sforzando E5 6a ** 4
98 Central Climb VS 5a * 26
99 Fennario VS 4c * 35
100 Nippon, Nippoff E3 6a 1
101 Topside
-
S 4c 1
102 Frodsham 3a
-
S  
  Gargoyle Buttress Area
104 The Diamond
-
V3 6a 1
105 Gargoyle Traverse S 4a * 24
106 Caveman S 4b 15
107 Dead on a Rival E5 6b *  
108 Woodhouse's Wandering Way E2 5c 3
109 Stony Faced E1 5b * 14
110 Gargoyle Buttress VS 4c * 25
111 Barker's Got a Sweat On HVS 5a 4
112 Conservative Tendencies HS 4b 4
  Buttress 1
114 Canker HVD 42
115 Back Blast HVS 5b 1
116 Wind Tunnel M * 34
117 Hurricane VD * 50
118 Typhoon HVS 5b 1
Climb name Grade
119 Route 1 VS 4c *** 320
120 The Shylock Finish VS 5a ** 101
121 Blue Velvet E1 6a * 11
122 Claw Climb HVS 5a ** 55
123 Talon VS 4c * 76
124 Lancaster Flyby HVS 5b ** 227
125 Route II VS 4c 40
126 Blue Hare
-
VS 4c 2
127 Grindle Crack HVD 16
128 Grinder Wall
-
S 7
129 A'rete Do VD 9
130 Another Left Wall
-
S 5
131 Another Flaky Wall VD 2
132 Another Right Wall
-
S  
133 Left Behind
-
HS 1
134 Frodsham 3c
-
VS 5a 1
135 Right Ahead
-
S 2
136 Stairway
-
D 4
137 Layby
-
VD 3
138 Pock Mark
-
S 2
  Upper Buttress
140 Barefoot D 124
141 Slab Happy S 4a 126
142 Step It Up S 4c 102
143 Groovy Moves S 4b 59
144 Jam On It HVS 5a 4
145 Squirm HVS 5a 3
146 Hang 'em High HS 5b 9
147 Chicken Head E2 5c * 5
148 Pleasant D 28
149 Spring Night E1 5c * 7
150 Autumn Day E1 5c ** 37
151 Stretch Marks E1 6a * 6
152 Razor Cut VS 4b 11
153 Rocky VD 37
154 Blocky HVD 4a 27
155 Hanging Tree HVS 5b 1
156 Easy Ground HVS 5b * 1
157 Excel HVS 5b ** 35
158 Swinwood E1 5b 11
159 Smokin' E1 5b 2
160 Landing Craft HVS 5b 2
161 Amen Corner HS 4c 4
162 Old Man's Corner VD 19
163 Village Green VS 5a 12
164 Lambo S 4b * 54
165 Bertie E1 5c * 6
166 Blunt HVS 5b * 8
167 Philby HVS 5b * 18
168 Granny Smith E1 5b *  
169 Cox's Pippin HVS 5b * 7
170 Ganges VD 11
171 Crackless Bottom E1 5b 9
172 Soft Top E1 5a 14
  Unknow / New / Awaiting Moderation
174 Huway in a Manger
-
f6B+ * 1
175 Rock Huway
-
f7A * 1

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