Climbs 240
Rocktype Gabbro

A beautiful day at Porth Ysgo. The Higginson Scar, V4. © Simon Richardson

Crag features

Bouldering by the sea a couple of miles from Hell's Mouth in the Lleyn Peninsula.

A beautiful venue by the sea, with some good boulders.
Most of the boulders are not tidal.
However, mats are essential as there are a lot of high ball problems and the landings are not good.

Porth Ysgo Tide times - http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/tide/uk/#forecastTable
Beastly Squirrel - 25/Jun/11
Fantastic rock - good friction (not quite gritstone) and great holds (not quite font) make a superb combination and probably amongst the best climbing I've done. Stacks of rock, and you could invent new problems all day! You really need a pad because of the rocky landings, but where possible people have "filled in" the bigger holes so that the landings are ok with a pad. Some of the boulders are tidal and some aren't, but there is plenty to do even if the tide is in. There is also a small beach on the far right side looking out to sea, which you can get to down the wooden steps. This is excellent for kids, and there is some bouldering here to that doesn't seem to be in the guidebook for some reason.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Area 1
2 The Seat V0+ * 9
3 Sweet Desserts V8 1
4 Area 1 Problem 3 V1 * 31
5 Area 1 Problem 4
-
V0- * 37
6 Grump Slap V4 * 19
7 Hogiau Llangefni V5 * 6
8 Area 1 Problem 7
-
V1 * 15
9 Area 1 Problem 8
-
V1 * 15
10 Area 1 Problem 9
-
V2 * 14
11 Circumvention * f6A * 1
12 Circumvent * f5  
13 Get some slap on we're going out. * f6B 1
14 The Porth Ysgo Crocodile * V2 2
  Area 2
16 Super Cheers
-
V0 * 59
17 Super Cheers (SDS) V5 18
18 Area 2 Problem 2
-
V0 * 67
19 Fantastic Day V3 49
20 Area 2 Problem 4
-
V0- * 51
21 Flange Arete V4 * 5
22 The Ysgo Flange
-
V2 ** 228
23 Full Flangellation V8+ **  
24 Simon's Arete V6 * 7
25 Simon's Arete SDS V8+ 1
26 Area 2 Problem 6
-
V3 * 75
27 Piano V2 * 4
28 Ble Mae Charlie V6 8
29 GWP V6 4
30 Rawhide V7 ** 1
31 Area 2 Problem 7 V2 25
32 The Nose f7A ** 24
33 Area 2, problem 8
-
V5 6
34 Area 2 Problem 9 V0- * 54
35 Area 2 Problem 10
-
V0- * 54
36 Area 2 Problem 11 V1 * 9
37 Truth
-
V1 ** 148
38 Truth sds V8 30
39 Justice
-
V1 * 99
40 Justice SDS
-
V6 9
41 Area 2 Problem 13
-
V0 ** 3
42 Area 2 Problem 13 LHS V2 1
43 Really Cool Toys V0+ * 50
44 Really Cool Toys SDS V6 * 50
45 Toys Right Hand V6 * 14
46 Chaos Theory (problem 16 area2) V8+ 1
47 Calm Before The Storm V7 ** 1
48 Area 2 Problem 17
-
V0 * 13
49 Area 2 Problem 18
-
V0 * 14
50 Area 2 Problem 19 V0 * 8
51 Area 2 Problem 20 V0 * 9
52 Ysbeidiau Heulog
-
V4 ** 27
53 Higginson's Scar
-
V4 6a *** 215
54 Higginson Scar Right-Hand V6 8
55 Area 2 Problem 25
-
V1 * 21
56 Area 2 Problem 26
-
V0+ * 18
57 What It Is To Burn V11 1
58 Dolly Rocker V11  
59 Scar face V2 **  
60 Slap handed V5 *** 3
61 Crack slap V2 ** 2
62 Dringo Gaeaf V5 *** 1
63 Winter swell V5 **  
64 Ysgo Magic V6 *** 3
65 Fantastic day standing start * f3 4
66 Ysgo flange righthand *
-
f6A+ * 5
67 Amyl and the sniffers * f6A 1
68 The Shield *
-
f6A+ ** 11
69 It's all chaos * f6B * 1
70 GWP Left Hand * f7A+ * 1
71 Theoretically speaking * f6A+ 1
72 Leftover * f5+ 1
73 Life by the drop * f5 * 1
74 Bonkers * f6A 1
75 Easy slab * f4 1
76 Juggy lip * f4+ 1
  Area 3
78 Paddle Foot V6 5
79 Joystick V2 ** 41
80 Joystick SS
-
V7 * 18
81 Jones' Eliminate V3 * 42
82 Jones' Eliminate SS V8 ** 5
83 Grooverider
-
V0 ** 74
84 Area 3 Problem 5
-
V0- ** 38
Climb name Grade
85 Area 3 Problem 6
-
V0- * 29
86 Simplicity
-
V0+ ** 27
87 Black Krispy Traverse V5 * 4
88 Area 3 Problem 10
-
V0 * 13
89 BK Arete V4 * 8
90 Area 3 Problem 12
-
V0 * 11
91 Area 3 Problem 13 V0 ** 9
92 Area 3 Problem 14
-
V0 7
93 Area 3 Problem 17
-
V0 2
94 Area 3 Problem 18
-
V0- 18
95 Area 3 Problem 19 V2 5
96 Watch Me Jumpstart f7A * 2
97 Area 3 Problem 20 V1 * 9
98 PG's Slab V1 ** 12
99 The Uncle V7 2
100 Opus Campus V8+  
101 The Incredible Shaking Man V3 *** 137
102 The Incredible Shaking Man SS
-
V7 *** 67
103 Perrin's Crack V2 *** 144
104 Perrin's Crack SS
-
V7 ** 28
105 Beach Boy Arete
-
V4 ** 68
106 Beach Boys Arete SDS
-
V5 ** 27
107 Pet Sounds V8+ 1
108 Uncle Pete's Groove
-
V0+ ** 30
109 Area 3 Problem 30
-
V0 * 4
110 Area 3 Problem 35 *
-
f4 1
111 Area 3 Problem 35 SS *
-
f5+ 1
112 Chester Racer * f6B+ * 2
113 Problem 36 * f6A * 1
114 Problem 36 sds - the sick boy sitter * f6B * 1
  Area 4
116 Van Guff V0- ** 21
117 Klem's Wall V3 6
118 Adam's Wall V3 4
119 Brave Sir Noel V2 3
120 Cured Weakling V6 *** 7
121 VG Central V3 ** 8
122 Sack The Preacher V8 **  
123 Area 4 problem 7 V0 * 6
124 Area 4 problem 7 SDS V0+ * 1
125 The Ysgo Flake V3 ** 18
126 Throbbin's Arete V4 ** 2
127 Area 4 Problem 11
-
V0 * 6
128 Area 4 Problem 12
-
V0- * 9
129 Area 4 Problem 13
-
V0- * 6
130 Nodder's Flake V5 2
131 Area 4 problem 7a * f4 1
  Area 5
133 Bubbles V8  
134 Here Comes The Sun V2 ** 5
135 Here Comes The Sun SDS
-
V6  
136 Foam Party V6 ** 25
137 Conservative Party V8+  
138 Area 5 Problem 5
-
V0- * 5
139 Area 5 Problem 6
-
V0- * 4
140 Area 5 problem 7
-
V1 ** 4
141 Area 5 problem 9
-
V1 * 4
142 Shred Arete f6B+ * 1
143 Area 5 Problem 11
-
V7 3
144 The Shelf
-
V0+ * 37
145 The Ramp V3 *** 190
146 The Ramp Direct V3 ** 9
147 Porn Makes Me Horny V10 6
148 Brian Spray V5 * 76
149 Unmarked Grave V4 ** 94
150 Unmarked Ramp V4 ** 9
151 Tide Of Dreams V10 4
152 Talking Dog V4 * 21
153 Talking Closer V6 ** 6
154 Closer V3 ** 99
155 Atomic sausage * f6B 1
  Area 6
157 Red Rum V2 * 19
158 Floppys Arete V0+ ** 42
159 The Ysgo Fear Test V2 * 3
160 Johnny's Slab V4 ** 38
161 Ysgo Crack V1 *** 120
162 Lip Flip V6 ** 1
163 Lip Flip SDS V9  
164 The Fred Nicole Roof
-
f8B ***  
165 Left Said Fred V11  
166 Area 6 problem 11
-
V0- * 4
167 Area 6 problem 13
-
V0+ * 2
168 Area 6 Problem 17
-
V0- * 4
Climb name Grade
169 Hanging Bell Traverse
-
V5 1
  Area 7
171 Howling Hound V7 * 25
172 Tents at Midnight V6 ** 6
173 The 11 O'Clock Show
-
V6 ** 4
174 Ugly Women V3 ** 108
175 Ugly Hounds V3 * 2
176 Early Morning Wigwam V6 ** 9
177 Tough Dogs
-
V1 * 41
178 Fast Cars V5 *** 108
179 Area 7 Slab Opposite Fast Cars
-
V0 * 5
180 Throbber V6 4
181 Mutant Child
-
V5 ** 42
182 Mutant Child SDS V8 *** 20
183 Anaconda V9 8
184 Lo Lo Crouch V10 1
185 Lo Lo V12 1
186 Area 7 Problem 10
-
V7  
187 Virgini trains * f6A * 1
188 Popcorn Party (Alt. Start) * f7A+ 2
189 Tough Cars * V8 * 1
  Area 8
191 Shredded Feet
-
V1 ** 16
192 Rice Krispy Arete
-
V0- ** 28
193 Rice Krispy Arete SDS
-
V4 ** 4
194 Area 8 Problem 3
-
V1 8
195 Popcorn Party V6 *** 151
196 Toffee Crisp V6 ** 5
197 Unnamed V0- V0- * 4
198 Unnamed V0 V0 * 12
199 Jets to Brazil V5 * 19
200 Jawbreaker V5 ** 133
201 Jawbreaker SS f7B *** 5
202 No spray no lay * f6B * 1
203 CopPorn Party * f4+ 2
204 Area 8 Problem 8 *
-
f5 1
205 Pop porn party * f6B * 1
  Area 9
207 Away From the Numbers V6 ** 6
208 American Rafiki
-
V4 ** 17
209 American Idiot f7A+ **  
210 Spaz boy * f6A ** 1
211 Darla * f6A 1
  Area 10
213 V3 area 10 V3 1
214 Heaven Groove V2 ** 7
215 Trons Brown V4 *** 3
216 Made In Heaven V4 *** 29
217 Fear of God
-
V5 ** 2
218 Stairway.. V1 ** 3
219 The Prodigal Son f6B+ ***  
220 The Prodigal Son SS f7A ***  
221 The Buttermilks Buzz f6B ** 1
222 The Buttermilks Buzz SS f7A **  
223 Ding Dong's Arete SDS V8 *** 3
224 The Slot V7  
  Far Side Block
226 The Far Side f7A ** 2
227 Black Streak f7B **  
228 School For the Gifted f7A **  
229 Larsen f7B+ ** 1
230 Thagomizer f7A+ *** 3
231 Dringo Gaeaf Low V7 ***  
232 Belly Flop V2 *  
233 Area 2 Problem 22 V0 *  
234 Area 3 Problem 8 V5 * 1
235 Area 3 Problem 15 V0+  
236 Area 3 Problem 16 V1 **  
237 Yard dog V0+ *  
238 Uncle Pete's Arete V1 *  
239 Area 5 problem 8 V1 **  
240 Mat's slab V0 * 3
241 The Smith route V2 **  
242 Willy's Crack V5 **  
243 Gibbon * f6B+ * 1
244 Larsen (Stand)
-
f6B * 1
245 Railroader *
-
f6B+ ** 1
246 Problem 10 *
-
f6A+ * 1
247 Heaven groove *
-
f5 5c **  
248 Heaven groove sds *
-
f6A 1
249 Stairway *
-
f4+ 5b **  
250 Stairway sds *
-
f6A+ 1
251 Blue jam *
-
f4+ 5b *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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