Climbs 201
Rocktype Gabbro

A beautiful day at Porth Ysgo. The Higginson Scar, V4. © Simon Richardson

Crag features

Bouldering by the sea a couple of miles from Hell's Mouth in the Lleyn Peninsula.

A beautiful venue by the sea, with some good boulders.

Most of the boulders are not tidal.

However, mats are essential as there are a lot of high ball problems and the landings are not good.

Porth Ysgo Tide times - http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/tide/uk/#forecastTable
Beastly Squirrel - 25/Jun/11
Fantastic rock - good friction (not quite gritstone) and great holds (not quite font) make a superb combination and probably amongst the best climbing I've done. Stacks of rock, and you could invent new problems all day! You really need a pad because of the rocky landings, but where possible people have "filled in" the bigger holes so that the landings are ok with a pad. Some of the boulders are tidal and some aren't, but there is plenty to do even if the tide is in. There is also a small beach on the far right side looking out to sea, which you can get to down the wooden steps. This is excellent for kids, and there is some bouldering here to that doesn't seem to be in the guidebook for some reason.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Area 1 
2The SeatV0+ *6
3Sweet DessertsV8  
4Area 1 Problem 3V1 *23
5Area 1 Problem 4
-
V0- *27
6Grump SlapV4 *15
7Hogiau LlangefniV5 *4
8Area 1 Problem 7
-
V1 *13
9Area 1 Problem 8
-
V1 *8
10Area 1 Problem 9
-
V2 *9
 Area 2 
12Super Cheers
-
V0 *35
13Super Cheers (SDS)V5 12
14Area 2 Problem 2
-
V0 *54
15Fantastic DayV3 41
16Area 2 Problem 4
-
V0- *45
17Flange AreteV4 *3
18The Ysgo Flange
-
V2 **176
19Full FlangellationV8+ ** 
20Simon's AreteV6 *4
21Simon's Arete SDSV8+  
22Area 2 Problem 6
-
V3 *60
23PianoV2 *1
24Ble Mae CharlieV6 3
25GWPV6 1
26RawhideV7 ** 
27Area 2 Problem 7V2 23
28Area 2, Problem 7 SDSf7A **15
29Area 2, problem 8
-
V5 3
30Area 2 Problem 9V0- *44
31Area 2 Problem 10
-
V0- *45
32Area 2 Problem 11V1 *5
33Truth
-
V1 **118
34Truth sdsV8 23
35Justice
-
V1 *75
36Justice SDS
-
V6 5
37Area 2 Problem 13
-
V0 **3
38Area 2 Problem 13 LHSV2 1
39Really Cool ToysV0+ *48
40Really Cool Toys SDSV6 *44
41Toys Right HandV6 *11
42Chaos Theory (problem 16 area2)V8+  
43Calm Before The StormV7 ** 
44Area 2 Problem 17
-
V0 *11
45Area 2 Problem 18
-
V0 *12
46Area 2 Problem 19V0 *8
47Area 2 Problem 20V0 *7
48Ysbeidiau Heulog
-
V4 **25
49Higginson's Scar
-
V4 ***170
50Higginson Scar Right-HandV6 8
51Area 2 Problem 25
-
V1 *19
52Area 2 Problem 26
-
V0+ *17
53What It Is To BurnV11 1
54Dolly RockerV11  
55Scar faceV2 ** 
56Slap handedV5 ***2
57Crack slapV2 **2
58Dringo GaeafV5 ***1
59Winter swellV5 ** 
60Ysgo MagicV6 ***3
 Area 3 
62Paddle FootV6 5
63JoystickV2 **34
64Joystick SS
-
V7 *14
65Jones' EliminateV3 *30
66Jones' Eliminate SSV8 **5
67Grooverider
-
V0 **58
68Area 3 Problem 5
-
V0- **28
69Area 3 Problem 6
-
V0- *23
70Simplicity
-
V0+ **20
71Black Krispy TraverseV5 *3
72Area 3 Problem 10
-
V0 *10
73BK AreteV4 *7
74Area 3 Problem 12
-
V0 *9
75Area 3 Problem 13V0 **7
76Area 3 Problem 14
-
V0 6
77Area 3 Problem 17
-
V0 2
78Area 3 Problem 18
-
V0- 16
79Area 3 Problem 19V2 4
80Watch Me Jumpstartf7A *1
81Area 3 Problem 20V1 *7
82PG's SlabV1 **8
83The UncleV7  
84Opus CampusV8+  
85The Incredible Shaking ManV3 ***110
86The Incredible Shaking Man SS
-
V7 ***56
87Perrin's CrackV2 ***123
88Perrin's Crack SS
-
V7 **16
89Beach Boy Arete
-
V4 **64
90Beach Boys Arete SDS
-
V5 **27
91Pet SoundsV8+ 1
92Uncle Pete's Groove
-
V0+ **25
93Area 3 Problem 30
-
V0 *2
 Area 4 
95Van GuffV0- **18
96Klem's WallV3 3
97Adam's WallV3 4
98Brave Sir NoelV2 3
99Cured WeaklingV6 ***6
100VG CentralV3 **7
101Sack The PreacherV8 ** 
102Area 4 problem 7V0 *1
103Area 4 problem 7 SDSV0+ *1
104The Ysgo FlakeV3 **15
105Throbbin's AreteV4 **2
106Area 4 Problem 11
-
V0 *5
107Area 4 Problem 12
-
V0- *8
108Area 4 Problem 13
-
V0- *5
109Nodder's FlakeV5 1
 Area 5 
111BubblesV8  
112Here Comes The SunV2 **4
113Here Comes The Sun SDS
-
V6  
114Foam PartyV6 **25
115Conservative PartyV8+  
116Area 5 Problem 5
-
V0- *5
117Area 5 Problem 6
-
V0- *4
118Area 5 problem 7
-
V1 **3
119Area 5 problem 9
-
V1 *2
120Shred Aretef6B+ *1
121Area 5 Problem 11
-
V7 1
122The Shelf
-
V0+ *30
123The RampV3 ***155
124The Ramp DirectV3 **5
125Porn Makes Me HornyV10 8
126Brian SprayV5 *55
127Unmarked GraveV4 **71
128Unmarked RampV4 **7
129Tide Of DreamsV10 3
130Talking DogV4 *13
131Talking CloserV6 **3
132CloserV3 **90
 Area 6 
134Red RumV2 *18
135Floppys AreteV0+ **35
136The Ysgo Fear TestV2 *1
137Johnny's SlabV4 **35
138Ysgo CrackV1 ***96
139Lip FlipV6 **1
140Lip Flip SDSV9  
141The Fred Nicole Roof
-
f8B *** 
142Left Said FredV11  
143Area 6 problem 11
-
V0- *2
144Area 6 problem 13
-
V0+ *2
145Area 6 Problem 17
-
V0- *4
146Hanging Bell Traverse
-
V5 1
 Area 7 
148Howling HoundV7 *23
149Tents at MidnightV6 **4
150The 11 O'Clock Show
-
V6 **3
151Ugly WomenV3 **89
152Ugly HoundsV3 *1
153Early Morning WigwamV6 **7
154Tough Dogs
-
V1 *34
155Fast CarsV5 ***101
156Area 7 Slab Opposite Fast Cars
-
V0 *4
157ThrobberV6 4
158Mutant Child
-
V5 **38
159Mutant Child SDSV8 ***21
160AnacondaV9 7
161Lo Lo CrouchV10 1
162Lo LoV12  
163Area 7 Problem 10
-
V7  
 Area 8 
165Shredded Feet
-
V1 **14
166Rice Krispy Arete
-
V0- **21
167Rice Krispy Arete SDS
-
V4 **1
168Area 8 Problem 3
-
V1 4
169Popcorn PartyV6 ***136
170Toffee CrispV6 **3
171Unnamed V0-V0- *3
172Unnamed V0V0 *9
173Jets to BrazilV5 *19
174JawbreakerV5 **123
175Jawbreaker SSf7B ***7
176CopPorn Party *f4+ 1
177Area 8 Problem 8 *
-
f5 1
 Area 9 
179Away From the NumbersV6 **6
180American Rafiki
-
V4 **15
181American Idiotf7A+ ** 
 Area 10 
183V3 area 10V3 1
184Heaven GrooveV2 **7
185Trons BrownV4 ***3
186Made In HeavenV4 ***34
187Fear of God
-
V5 **2
188Stairway..V1 **3
189The Prodigal Sonf6B+ *** 
190The Prodigal Son SSf7A *** 
191The Buttermilks Buzzf6B **1
192The Buttermilks Buzz SSf7A ** 
193Ding Dong's Arete SDSV8 ***3
194The SlotV7  
 Far Side Block 
196The Far Sidef7A **2
197Black Streakf7B ** 
198School For the Giftedf7A ** 
199Larsenf7B+ **1
200Thagomizerf7A+ ***3
201Dringo Gaeaf LowV7 *** 
202Belly FlopV2 * 
203Area 2 Problem 22V0 * 
204Area 3 Problem 8V5 * 
205Area 3 Problem 15V0+  
206Area 3 Problem 16V1 ** 
207Yard dogV0+ * 
208Uncle Pete's AreteV1 * 
209Area 5 problem 8V1 ** 
210Mat's slabV0 *2
211The Smith routeV2 ** 
212Willy's CrackV5 ** 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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