UKC

Climbs 233
Rocktype Gabbro

A beautiful day at Porth Ysgo. The Higginson Scar, V4. © Simon Richardson

Crag features

Bouldering by the sea a couple of miles from Hell's Mouth in the Lleyn Peninsula.

A beautiful venue by the sea, with some good boulders.
Most of the boulders are not tidal.
However, mats are essential as there are a lot of high ball problems and the landings are not good.

Porth Ysgo Tide times - http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/tide/uk/#forecastTable
Beastly Squirrel - 25/Jun/11
Fantastic rock - good friction (not quite gritstone) and great holds (not quite font) make a superb combination and probably amongst the best climbing I've done. Stacks of rock, and you could invent new problems all day! You really need a pad because of the rocky landings, but where possible people have "filled in" the bigger holes so that the landings are ok with a pad. Some of the boulders are tidal and some aren't, but there is plenty to do even if the tide is in. There is also a small beach on the far right side looking out to sea, which you can get to down the wooden steps. This is excellent for kids, and there is some bouldering here to that doesn't seem to be in the guidebook for some reason.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Area 1
2 The Seat V0+ * 9
3 Sweet Desserts V8 1
4 Area 1 Problem 3 V1 * 28
5 Area 1 Problem 4
-
V0- * 34
6 Grump Slap V4 * 19
7 Hogiau Llangefni V5 * 6
8 Area 1 Problem 7
-
V1 * 15
9 Area 1 Problem 8
-
V1 * 12
10 Area 1 Problem 9
-
V2 * 12
11 Circumvention * f6A * 1
12 Circumvent * f5  
13 Get some slap on we're going out. * f6B 1
14 The Porth Ysgo Crocodile * V2 2
  Area 2
16 Super Cheers
-
V0 * 55
17 Super Cheers (SDS) V5 18
18 Area 2 Problem 2
-
V0 * 65
19 Fantastic Day V3 49
20 Area 2 Problem 4
-
V0- * 51
21 Flange Arete V4 * 5
22 The Ysgo Flange
-
V2 ** 215
23 Full Flangellation V8+ **  
24 Simon's Arete V6 * 6
25 Simon's Arete SDS V8+ 1
26 Area 2 Problem 6
-
V3 * 73
27 Piano V2 * 3
28 Ble Mae Charlie V6 7
29 GWP V6 4
30 Rawhide V7 ** 1
31 Area 2 Problem 7 V2 24
32 Area 2, Problem 7 SDS f7A ** 18
33 Area 2, problem 8
-
V5 5
34 Area 2 Problem 9 V0- * 54
35 Area 2 Problem 10
-
V0- * 54
36 Area 2 Problem 11 V1 * 7
37 Truth
-
V1 ** 146
38 Truth sds V8 27
39 Justice
-
V1 * 97
40 Justice SDS
-
V6 9
41 Area 2 Problem 13
-
V0 ** 3
42 Area 2 Problem 13 LHS V2 1
43 Really Cool Toys V0+ * 50
44 Really Cool Toys SDS V6 * 49
45 Toys Right Hand V6 * 14
46 Chaos Theory (problem 16 area2) V8+ 1
47 Calm Before The Storm V7 ** 1
48 Area 2 Problem 17
-
V0 * 13
49 Area 2 Problem 18
-
V0 * 14
50 Area 2 Problem 19 V0 * 8
51 Area 2 Problem 20 V0 * 9
52 Ysbeidiau Heulog
-
V4 ** 26
53 Higginson's Scar
-
V4 6a *** 202
54 Higginson Scar Right-Hand V6 8
55 Area 2 Problem 25
-
V1 * 21
56 Area 2 Problem 26
-
V0+ * 18
57 What It Is To Burn V11 1
58 Dolly Rocker V11  
59 Scar face V2 **  
60 Slap handed V5 *** 2
61 Crack slap V2 ** 2
62 Dringo Gaeaf V5 *** 1
63 Winter swell V5 **  
64 Ysgo Magic V6 *** 3
65 Fantastic day standing start * f3 4
66 Ysgo flange righthand *
-
f6A+ * 2
67 Amyl and the sniffers * f6A 1
68 The Shield *
-
f6A+ ** 9
69 It's all chaos * f6B * 1
70 GWP Left Hand * f7A+ * 1
71 Theoretically speaking * f6A+ 1
72 Leftover * f5+ 1
73 Bonkers * f6A 1
  Area 3
75 Paddle Foot V6 5
76 Joystick V2 ** 38
77 Joystick SS
-
V7 * 17
78 Jones' Eliminate V3 * 39
79 Jones' Eliminate SS V8 ** 5
80 Grooverider
-
V0 ** 70
81 Area 3 Problem 5
-
V0- ** 36
82 Area 3 Problem 6
-
V0- * 27
Climb name Grade
83 Simplicity
-
V0+ ** 25
84 Black Krispy Traverse V5 * 4
85 Area 3 Problem 10
-
V0 * 13
86 BK Arete V4 * 8
87 Area 3 Problem 12
-
V0 * 10
88 Area 3 Problem 13 V0 ** 8
89 Area 3 Problem 14
-
V0 7
90 Area 3 Problem 17
-
V0 2
91 Area 3 Problem 18
-
V0- 17
92 Area 3 Problem 19 V2 5
93 Watch Me Jumpstart f7A * 2
94 Area 3 Problem 20 V1 * 9
95 PG's Slab V1 ** 11
96 The Uncle V7 2
97 Opus Campus V8+  
98 The Incredible Shaking Man V3 *** 130
99 The Incredible Shaking Man SS
-
V7 *** 63
100 Perrin's Crack V2 *** 137
101 Perrin's Crack SS
-
V7 ** 23
102 Beach Boy Arete
-
V4 ** 67
103 Beach Boys Arete SDS
-
V5 ** 27
104 Pet Sounds V8+ 1
105 Uncle Pete's Groove
-
V0+ ** 29
106 Area 3 Problem 30
-
V0 * 3
107 Area 3 Problem 35 *
-
f4  
108 Area 3 Problem 35 SS *
-
f5+  
109 Chester Racer * f6B+ * 1
  Area 4
111 Van Guff V0- ** 21
112 Klem's Wall V3 6
113 Adam's Wall V3 4
114 Brave Sir Noel V2 3
115 Cured Weakling V6 *** 7
116 VG Central V3 ** 8
117 Sack The Preacher V8 **  
118 Area 4 problem 7 V0 * 6
119 Area 4 problem 7 SDS V0+ * 1
120 The Ysgo Flake V3 ** 18
121 Throbbin's Arete V4 ** 2
122 Area 4 Problem 11
-
V0 * 6
123 Area 4 Problem 12
-
V0- * 9
124 Area 4 Problem 13
-
V0- * 6
125 Nodder's Flake V5 1
126 Area 4 problem 7a * f4 1
  Area 5
128 Bubbles V8  
129 Here Comes The Sun V2 ** 5
130 Here Comes The Sun SDS
-
V6  
131 Foam Party V6 ** 24
132 Conservative Party V8+  
133 Area 5 Problem 5
-
V0- * 5
134 Area 5 Problem 6
-
V0- * 4
135 Area 5 problem 7
-
V1 ** 4
136 Area 5 problem 9
-
V1 * 4
137 Shred Arete f6B+ * 1
138 Area 5 Problem 11
-
V7 2
139 The Shelf
-
V0+ * 35
140 The Ramp V3 *** 183
141 The Ramp Direct V3 ** 9
142 Porn Makes Me Horny V10 6
143 Brian Spray V5 * 73
144 Unmarked Grave V4 ** 90
145 Unmarked Ramp V4 ** 9
146 Tide Of Dreams V10 4
147 Talking Dog V4 * 18
148 Talking Closer V6 ** 6
149 Closer V3 ** 96
150 Atomic sausage * f6B 1
  Area 6
152 Red Rum V2 * 19
153 Floppys Arete V0+ ** 42
154 The Ysgo Fear Test V2 * 3
155 Johnny's Slab V4 ** 36
156 Ysgo Crack V1 *** 109
157 Lip Flip V6 ** 1
158 Lip Flip SDS V9  
159 The Fred Nicole Roof
-
f8B ***  
160 Left Said Fred V11  
161 Area 6 problem 11
-
V0- * 4
162 Area 6 problem 13
-
V0+ * 2
163 Area 6 Problem 17
-
V0- * 4
164 Hanging Bell Traverse
-
V5 1
Climb name Grade
  Area 7
166 Howling Hound V7 * 25
167 Tents at Midnight V6 ** 6
168 The 11 O'Clock Show
-
V6 ** 4
169 Ugly Women V3 ** 106
170 Ugly Hounds V3 * 2
171 Early Morning Wigwam V6 ** 9
172 Tough Dogs
-
V1 * 41
173 Fast Cars V5 *** 107
174 Area 7 Slab Opposite Fast Cars
-
V0 * 5
175 Throbber V6 4
176 Mutant Child
-
V5 ** 42
177 Mutant Child SDS V8 *** 20
178 Anaconda V9 8
179 Lo Lo Crouch V10 1
180 Lo Lo V12 1
181 Area 7 Problem 10
-
V7  
182 Virgini trains * f6A * 1
183 Tough Cars * V8 * 1
  Area 8
185 Shredded Feet
-
V1 ** 16
186 Rice Krispy Arete
-
V0- ** 26
187 Rice Krispy Arete SDS
-
V4 ** 4
188 Area 8 Problem 3
-
V1 8
189 Popcorn Party V6 *** 143
190 Toffee Crisp V6 ** 5
191 Unnamed V0- V0- * 4
192 Unnamed V0 V0 * 12
193 Jets to Brazil V5 * 19
194 Jawbreaker V5 ** 132
195 Jawbreaker SS f7B *** 4
196 No spray no lay * f6B * 1
197 CopPorn Party * f4+ 1
198 Area 8 Problem 8 *
-
f5 1
  Area 9
200 Away From the Numbers V6 ** 6
201 American Rafiki
-
V4 ** 16
202 American Idiot f7A+ **  
203 Spaz boy * f6A ** 1
204 Darla * f6A 1
  Area 10
206 V3 area 10 V3 1
207 Heaven Groove V2 ** 7
208 Trons Brown V4 *** 3
209 Made In Heaven V4 *** 29
210 Fear of God
-
V5 ** 2
211 Stairway.. V1 ** 3
212 The Prodigal Son f6B+ ***  
213 The Prodigal Son SS f7A ***  
214 The Buttermilks Buzz f6B ** 1
215 The Buttermilks Buzz SS f7A **  
216 Ding Dong's Arete SDS V8 *** 3
217 The Slot V7  
  Far Side Block
219 The Far Side f7A ** 2
220 Black Streak f7B **  
221 School For the Gifted f7A **  
222 Larsen f7B+ ** 1
223 Thagomizer f7A+ *** 3
224 Dringo Gaeaf Low V7 ***  
225 Belly Flop V2 *  
226 Area 2 Problem 22 V0 *  
227 Area 3 Problem 8 V5 * 1
228 Area 3 Problem 15 V0+  
229 Area 3 Problem 16 V1 **  
230 Yard dog V0+ *  
231 Uncle Pete's Arete V1 *  
232 Area 5 problem 8 V1 **  
233 Mat's slab V0 * 3
234 The Smith route V2 **  
235 Willy's Crack V5 **  
236 Gibbon * f6B+ * 1
237 Larsen (Stand)
-
f6B * 1
238 Railroader *
-
f6B+ ** 1
239 Problem 10 *
-
f6A+ * 1
240 Heaven groove *
-
f5 5c **  
241 Heaven groove sds *
-
f6A 1
242 Stairway *
-
f4+ 5b **  
243 Stairway sds *
-
f6A+ 1
244 Blue jam *
-
f4+ 5b *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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