Climbs 201
Rocktype Gabbro

A beautiful day at Porth Ysgo. The Higginson Scar, V4. © Simon Richardson

Crag features

Bouldering by the sea a couple of miles from Hell's Mouth in the Lleyn Peninsula.

A beautiful venue by the sea, with some good boulders.

Most of the boulders are not tidal.

However, mats are essential as there are a lot of high ball problems and the landings are not good.

Porth Ysgo Tide times - http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/tide/uk/#forecastTable
Beastly Squirrel - 25/Jun/11
Fantastic rock - good friction (not quite gritstone) and great holds (not quite font) make a superb combination and probably amongst the best climbing I've done. Stacks of rock, and you could invent new problems all day! You really need a pad because of the rocky landings, but where possible people have "filled in" the bigger holes so that the landings are ok with a pad. Some of the boulders are tidal and some aren't, but there is plenty to do even if the tide is in. There is also a small beach on the far right side looking out to sea, which you can get to down the wooden steps. This is excellent for kids, and there is some bouldering here to that doesn't seem to be in the guidebook for some reason.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Area 1
2 The Seat V0+ * 6
3 Sweet Desserts V8 1
4 Area 1 Problem 3 V1 * 23
5 Area 1 Problem 4
-
V0- * 27
6 Grump Slap V4 * 15
7 Hogiau Llangefni V5 * 4
8 Area 1 Problem 7
-
V1 * 13
9 Area 1 Problem 8
-
V1 * 8
10 Area 1 Problem 9
-
V2 * 9
  Area 2
12 Super Cheers
-
V0 * 35
13 Super Cheers (SDS) V5 12
14 Area 2 Problem 2
-
V0 * 55
15 Fantastic Day V3 41
16 Area 2 Problem 4
-
V0- * 46
17 Flange Arete V4 * 3
18 The Ysgo Flange
-
V2 ** 181
19 Full Flangellation V8+ **  
20 Simon's Arete V6 * 4
21 Simon's Arete SDS V8+  
22 Area 2 Problem 6
-
V3 * 60
23 Piano V2 * 1
24 Ble Mae Charlie V6 3
25 GWP V6 1
26 Rawhide V7 **  
27 Area 2 Problem 7 V2 24
28 Area 2, Problem 7 SDS f7A ** 16
29 Area 2, problem 8
-
V5 3
30 Area 2 Problem 9 V0- * 44
31 Area 2 Problem 10
-
V0- * 45
32 Area 2 Problem 11 V1 * 5
33 Truth
-
V1 ** 126
34 Truth sds V8 22
35 Justice
-
V1 * 83
36 Justice SDS
-
V6 5
37 Area 2 Problem 13
-
V0 ** 3
38 Area 2 Problem 13 LHS V2 1
39 Really Cool Toys V0+ * 48
40 Really Cool Toys SDS V6 * 46
41 Toys Right Hand V6 * 11
42 Chaos Theory (problem 16 area2) V8+  
43 Calm Before The Storm V7 **  
44 Area 2 Problem 17
-
V0 * 11
45 Area 2 Problem 18
-
V0 * 12
46 Area 2 Problem 19 V0 * 8
47 Area 2 Problem 20 V0 * 7
48 Ysbeidiau Heulog
-
V4 ** 25
49 Higginson's Scar
-
V4 6a *** 180
50 Higginson Scar Right-Hand V6 8
51 Area 2 Problem 25
-
V1 * 19
52 Area 2 Problem 26
-
V0+ * 17
53 What It Is To Burn V11 1
54 Dolly Rocker V11  
55 Scar face V2 **  
56 Slap handed V5 *** 2
57 Crack slap V2 ** 2
58 Dringo Gaeaf V5 *** 1
59 Winter swell V5 **  
60 Ysgo Magic V6 *** 3
  Area 3
62 Paddle Foot V6 5
63 Joystick V2 ** 34
64 Joystick SS
-
V7 * 14
65 Jones' Eliminate V3 * 30
66 Jones' Eliminate SS V8 ** 5
67 Grooverider
-
V0 ** 58
68 Area 3 Problem 5
-
V0- ** 28
69 Area 3 Problem 6
-
V0- * 23
70 Simplicity
-
V0+ ** 20
71 Black Krispy Traverse V5 * 3
72 Area 3 Problem 10
-
V0 * 10
73 BK Arete V4 * 7
74 Area 3 Problem 12
-
V0 * 9
75 Area 3 Problem 13 V0 ** 7
76 Area 3 Problem 14
-
V0 6
77 Area 3 Problem 17
-
V0 2
78 Area 3 Problem 18
-
V0- 16
79 Area 3 Problem 19 V2 4
80 Watch Me Jumpstart f7A * 1
81 Area 3 Problem 20 V1 * 7
82 PG's Slab V1 ** 8
83 The Uncle V7  
84 Opus Campus V8+  
85 The Incredible Shaking Man V3 *** 114
86 The Incredible Shaking Man SS
-
V7 *** 58
87 Perrin's Crack V2 *** 126
88 Perrin's Crack SS
-
V7 ** 16
89 Beach Boy Arete
-
V4 ** 64
90 Beach Boys Arete SDS
-
V5 ** 27
91 Pet Sounds V8+ 1
92 Uncle Pete's Groove
-
V0+ ** 25
93 Area 3 Problem 30
-
V0 * 2
  Area 4
95 Van Guff V0- ** 18
96 Klem's Wall V3 3
97 Adam's Wall V3 4
98 Brave Sir Noel V2 3
99 Cured Weakling V6 *** 6
100 VG Central V3 ** 7
101 Sack The Preacher V8 **  
102 Area 4 problem 7 V0 * 1
103 Area 4 problem 7 SDS V0+ * 1
104 The Ysgo Flake V3 ** 15
105 Throbbin's Arete V4 ** 2
106 Area 4 Problem 11
-
V0 * 5
107 Area 4 Problem 12
-
V0- * 8
108 Area 4 Problem 13
-
V0- * 5
109 Nodder's Flake V5 1
  Area 5
111 Bubbles V8  
112 Here Comes The Sun V2 ** 4
113 Here Comes The Sun SDS
-
V6  
114 Foam Party V6 ** 24
115 Conservative Party V8+  
116 Area 5 Problem 5
-
V0- * 5
117 Area 5 Problem 6
-
V0- * 4
118 Area 5 problem 7
-
V1 ** 3
119 Area 5 problem 9
-
V1 * 2
120 Shred Arete f6B+ * 1
121 Area 5 Problem 11
-
V7 1
122 The Shelf
-
V0+ * 31
123 The Ramp V3 *** 161
124 The Ramp Direct V3 ** 7
125 Porn Makes Me Horny V10 5
126 Brian Spray V5 * 56
127 Unmarked Grave V4 ** 73
128 Unmarked Ramp V4 ** 7
129 Tide Of Dreams V10 4
130 Talking Dog V4 * 13
131 Talking Closer V6 ** 3
132 Closer V3 ** 91
  Area 6
134 Red Rum V2 * 18
135 Floppys Arete V0+ ** 37
136 The Ysgo Fear Test V2 * 1
137 Johnny's Slab V4 ** 34
138 Ysgo Crack V1 *** 99
139 Lip Flip V6 ** 1
140 Lip Flip SDS V9  
141 The Fred Nicole Roof
-
f8B ***  
142 Left Said Fred V11  
143 Area 6 problem 11
-
V0- * 2
144 Area 6 problem 13
-
V0+ * 2
145 Area 6 Problem 17
-
V0- * 4
146 Hanging Bell Traverse
-
V5 1
  Area 7
148 Howling Hound V7 * 23
149 Tents at Midnight V6 ** 5
150 The 11 O'Clock Show
-
V6 ** 3
151 Ugly Women V3 ** 93
152 Ugly Hounds V3 * 1
153 Early Morning Wigwam V6 ** 8
154 Tough Dogs
-
V1 * 35
155 Fast Cars V5 *** 103
156 Area 7 Slab Opposite Fast Cars
-
V0 * 4
157 Throbber V6 4
158 Mutant Child
-
V5 ** 38
159 Mutant Child SDS V8 *** 19
160 Anaconda V9 7
161 Lo Lo Crouch V10 1
162 Lo Lo V12 1
163 Area 7 Problem 10
-
V7  
  Area 8
165 Shredded Feet
-
V1 ** 14
166 Rice Krispy Arete
-
V0- ** 21
167 Rice Krispy Arete SDS
-
V4 ** 1
168 Area 8 Problem 3
-
V1 4
169 Popcorn Party V6 *** 141
170 Toffee Crisp V6 ** 3
171 Unnamed V0- V0- * 3
172 Unnamed V0 V0 * 9
173 Jets to Brazil V5 * 19
174 Jawbreaker V5 ** 127
175 Jawbreaker SS f7B *** 4
176 CopPorn Party * f4+ 1
177 Area 8 Problem 8 *
-
f5 1
  Area 9
179 Away From the Numbers V6 ** 6
180 American Rafiki
-
V4 ** 15
181 American Idiot f7A+ **  
  Area 10
183 V3 area 10 V3 1
184 Heaven Groove V2 ** 7
185 Trons Brown V4 *** 3
186 Made In Heaven V4 *** 29
187 Fear of God
-
V5 ** 2
188 Stairway.. V1 ** 3
189 The Prodigal Son f6B+ ***  
190 The Prodigal Son SS f7A ***  
191 The Buttermilks Buzz f6B ** 1
192 The Buttermilks Buzz SS f7A **  
193 Ding Dong's Arete SDS V8 *** 3
194 The Slot V7  
  Far Side Block
196 The Far Side f7A ** 2
197 Black Streak f7B **  
198 School For the Gifted f7A **  
199 Larsen f7B+ ** 1
200 Thagomizer f7A+ *** 3
201 Dringo Gaeaf Low V7 ***  
202 Belly Flop V2 *  
203 Area 2 Problem 22 V0 *  
204 Area 3 Problem 8 V5 *  
205 Area 3 Problem 15 V0+  
206 Area 3 Problem 16 V1 **  
207 Yard dog V0+ *  
208 Uncle Pete's Arete V1 *  
209 Area 5 problem 8 V1 **  
210 Mat's slab V0 * 2
211 The Smith route V2 **  
212 Willy's Crack V5 **  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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