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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 253
Rocktype Gabbro

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A beautiful day at Porth Ysgo. The Higginson Scar, V4. © Simon Richardson

Crag features

Bouldering by the sea a couple of miles from Hell's Mouth in the Lleyn Peninsula.

A beautiful venue by the sea, with some good boulders.
Most of the boulders are not tidal.
However, mats are essential as there are a lot of high ball problems and the landings are not good.

This page really needs updating in line with the new guide.. so many ‘area x problem x’ entries that are out of sync now..
mrphilipoldham - 10/Jul/19
Porth Ysgo Tide times - http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/tide/uk/#forecastTable
Beastly Squirrel - 25/Jun/11
Fantastic rock - good friction (not quite gritstone) and great holds (not quite font) make a superb combination and probably amongst the best climbing I've done. Stacks of rock, and you could invent new problems all day! You really need a pad because of the rocky landings, but where possible people have "filled in" the bigger holes so that the landings are ok with a pad. Some of the boulders are tidal and some aren't, but there is plenty to do even if the tide is in. There is also a small beach on the far right side looking out to sea, which you can get to down the wooden steps. This is excellent for kids, and there is some bouldering here to that doesn't seem to be in the guidebook for some reason.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Area 1
2 The Seat V0+ * 12
3 Sweet Desserts V8 2
4 Area 1 Problem 3 V1 * 38
5 Area 1 Problem 4
-
V0- * 43
6 Grump Slap V4 * 20
7 Hogiau Llangefni V5 * 6
8 Area 1 Problem 7
-
V1 * 19
9 Area 1 Problem 8
-
V1 * 19
10 Area 1 Problem 9
-
V2 * 16
11 The Ysgo Diamond * f6B * 2
12 Circumvention * f6A * 1
13 Circumvent * f5  
14 Get some slap on we're going out. * f6B 1
15 The Porth Ysgo Crocodile * V2 2
  Area 2
17 Super Cheers
-
V0 * 70
18 Super Cheers (SDS) V5 24
19 Area 2 Problem 2
-
V0 * 75
20 Fantastic Day V3 58
21 Area 2 Problem 4
-
V0- * 58
22 Flange Arete V4 * 13
23 The Ysgo Flange
-
V2 ** 248
24 Full Flangellation V8+ **  
25 Simon's Arete V6 * 11
26 Simon's Arete SDS V8+ 1
27 Area 2 Problem 6
-
V3 * 78
28 Piano V2 * 4
29 Ble Mae Charlie V6 18
30 GWP V6 7
31 Rawhide V7 ** 2
32 Area 2 Problem 7 V2 25
33 The Nose f7A ** 27
34 Area 2, problem 8
-
V5 10
35 Area 2 Problem 9 V0- * 61
36 Area 2 Problem 10
-
V0- * 61
37 Area 2 Problem 11 V1 * 15
38 Truth
-
V1 ** 158
39 Truth sds V8 30
40 Justice
-
V1 * 106
41 Justice SDS
-
V6 10
42 Area 2 Problem 13
-
V0 ** 3
43 Area 2 Problem 13 LHS V2 2
44 Really Cool Toys V0+ * 50
45 Really Cool Toys SDS V6 * 51
46 Toys Right Hand V6 * 14
47 Chaos Theory (problem 16 area2) V8+ 2
48 Calm Before The Storm V7 ** 1
49 Area 2 Problem 17
-
V0 * 15
50 Area 2 Problem 18
-
V0 * 15
51 Area 2 Problem 19 V0 * 8
52 Area 2 Problem 20 V0 * 9
53 Ysbeidiau Heulog
-
V4 ** 32
54 Higginson's Scar
-
V4 6a *** 232
55 Higginson Scar Right-Hand V6 8
56 Area 2 Problem 25
-
V1 * 21
57 Area 2 Problem 26
-
V0+ * 19
58 What It Is To Burn V11 1
59 Dolly Rocker V11  
60 Scar face V2 **  
61 Slap handed V5 *** 3
62 Crack slap V2 ** 2
63 Dringo Gaeaf V5 *** 1
64 Winter swell V5 **  
65 Ysgo Magic V6 *** 3
66 Fantastic day standing start * f3 5
67 Ysgo flange righthand *
-
f6A+ * 14
68 NWB 6 * f6B+ 2
69 Amyl and the sniffers * f6A 1
70 The Shield *
-
f6A+ ** 23
71 It's all chaos * f6B * 1
72 GWP Left Hand * f7A+ * 2
73 Theoretically speaking * f6A+ 1
74 Leftover * f5+ 1
75 Life by the drop * f5 * 1
76 Bonkers * f6A 1
77 Easy slab * f4 1
78 Juggy lip * f4+ 1
  Area 3
80 Paddle Foot V6 5
81 Joystick V2 ** 50
82 Joystick SS
-
V7 * 26
83 Jones' Eliminate V3 * 50
84 Jones' Eliminate SS V8 ** 7
85 Grooverider
-
V0 ** 85
86 Area 3 Problem 5
-
V0- ** 46
87 Area 3 Problem 6
-
V0- * 32
88 Simplicity
-
V0+ ** 32
Climb name Grade
89 Black Krispy Traverse V5 * 4
90 Area 3 Problem 10
-
V0 * 13
91 BK Arete V4 * 8
92 Area 3 Problem 12
-
V0 * 11
93 Area 3 Problem 13 V0 ** 9
94 Area 3 Problem 14
-
V0 7
95 Area 3 Problem 17
-
V0 2
96 Area 3 Problem 18
-
V0- 18
97 Area 3 Problem 19 V2 5
98 Watch Me Jumpstart f7A * 2
99 Area 3 Problem 20 V1 * 9
100 PG's Slab V1 ** 12
101 The Uncle V7 3
102 Opus Campus V8+  
103 The Incredible Shaking Man V3 *** 154
104 The Incredible Shaking Man SS
-
V7 *** 76
105 Perrin's Crack V2 *** 160
106 Perrin's Crack SS
-
V7 ** 31
107 Beach Boy Arete
-
V4 ** 75
108 Beach Boys Arete SDS
-
V5 ** 30
109 Pet Sounds V8+ 1
110 Uncle Pete's Groove
-
V0+ ** 32
111 Area 3 Problem 30
-
V0 * 5
112 The Incredible Shaking Man LH *
-
f6B+ ** 3
113 Area 3 Problem 35 *
-
f4 1
114 Area 3 Problem 35 SS *
-
f5+ 1
115 Chester Racer * f6B+ * 3
116 Problem 36 * f6A * 1
117 Problem 36 sds - the sick boy sitter * f6B * 1
  Area 4
119 Van Guff V0- ** 22
120 Klem's Wall V3 6
121 Adam's Wall V3 4
122 Brave Sir Noel V2 3
123 Cured Weakling V6 *** 8
124 VG Central V3 ** 10
125 Sack The Preacher V8 **  
126 Area 4 problem 7 V0 * 6
127 Area 4 problem 7 SDS V0+ * 1
128 The Ysgo Flake V3 ** 21
129 Throbbin's Arete V4 ** 2
130 Area 4 Problem 11
-
V0 * 7
131 Area 4 Problem 12
-
V0- * 10
132 Area 4 Problem 13
-
V0- * 7
133 Nodder's Flake V5 4
134 Area 4 problem 7a * f4 1
135 Dog Star * f7B 1
136 VG Central SDS *
-
f7A+ ** 1
  Area 5
138 Bubbles V8  
139 Here Comes The Sun V2 ** 5
140 Here Comes The Sun SDS
-
V6  
141 Foam Party V6 ** 25
142 Conservative Party V8+  
143 Area 5 Problem 5
-
V0- * 5
144 Area 5 Problem 6
-
V0- * 4
145 Area 5 problem 7
-
V1 ** 4
146 Area 5 problem 9
-
V1 * 4
147 Shred Arete f6B+ * 1
148 Area 5 Problem 11
-
V7 3
149 The Shelf
-
V0+ * 40
150 The Ramp V3 *** 202
151 The Ramp Direct V3 ** 9
152 Porn Makes Me Horny V10 5
153 Brian Spray V5 * 85
154 Unmarked Grave V4 ** 106
155 Unmarked Ramp V4 ** 10
156 Tide Of Dreams V10 4
157 Talking Dog V4 * 30
158 Talking Closer V6 ** 8
159 Closer V3 ** 105
160 Atomic sausage * f6B 1
161 Area 5 problem 16 *
-
f5+ * 1
162 Bobbles *
-
f6A+ ** 1
163 Bobbles Left Hand *
-
f6B * 1
164 Bobbles Arete *
-
f6B+ * 1
  Area 6
166 Red Rum V2 * 22
167 Floppys Arete V0+ ** 45
168 The Ysgo Fear Test V2 * 3
169 Johnny's Slab V4 ** 38
170 Ysgo Crack V1 *** 127
171 Lip Flip V6 ** 1
172 Lip Flip SDS V9  
173 The Fred Nicole Roof
-
f8B ***  
174 Left Said Fred V11  
175 Area 6 problem 11
-
V0- * 4
176 Area 6 problem 13
-
V0+ * 2
Climb name Grade
177 Area 6 Problem 17
-
V0- * 4
178 Hanging Bell Traverse
-
V5 1
  Area 7
180 Howling Hound V7 * 28
181 Tents at Midnight V6 ** 7
182 The 11 O'Clock Show
-
V6 ** 6
183 Ugly Women V3 ** 116
184 Ugly Hounds V3 * 2
185 Early Morning Wigwam V6 ** 9
186 Tough Dogs
-
V1 * 43
187 Fast Cars V5 *** 113
188 Area 7 Slab Opposite Fast Cars
-
V0 * 5
189 Throbber V6 4
190 Mutant Child
-
V5 ** 43
191 Mutant Child SDS V8 *** 21
192 Anaconda V9 8
193 Lo Lo Crouch V10 1
194 Lo Lo V12 1
195 Area 7 Problem 10
-
V7  
196 Virgini trains * f6A * 1
197 Popcorn Party (Alt. Start) * f7A+ 3
198 Tough Cars * V8 * 1
199 16 Years Earlier *
-
f7A ** 1
  Area 8
201 Shredded Feet
-
V1 ** 17
202 Rice Krispy Arete
-
V0- ** 29
203 Rice Krispy Arete SDS
-
V4 ** 4
204 Area 8 Problem 3
-
V1 8
205 Popcorn Party V6 *** 163
206 Toffee Crisp V6 ** 6
207 Unnamed V0- V0- * 4
208 Unnamed V0 V0 * 12
209 Jets to Brazil V5 * 20
210 Jawbreaker V5 ** 137
211 Jawbreaker SS f7B *** 6
212 No spray no lay * f6B * 1
213 CopPorn Party * f4+ 2
214 Area 8 Problem 8 *
-
f5 1
215 Pop porn party * f6B * 1
  Area 9
217 Away From the Numbers V6 ** 6
218 American Rafiki
-
V4 ** 17
219 American Idiot f7A+ **  
220 Spaz boy * f6A ** 1
221 Darla * f6A 1
  Area 10
223 V3 area 10 V3 1
224 Heaven Groove V2 ** 11
225 Trons Brown V4 *** 4
226 Made In Heaven V4 *** 32
227 Fear of God
-
V5 ** 2
228 Stairway.. V1 ** 6
229 The Prodigal Son f6B+ ***  
230 The Prodigal Son SS f7A ***  
231 The Buttermilks Buzz f6B ** 1
232 The Buttermilks Buzz SS f7A **  
233 Ding Dong's Arete SDS V8 *** 5
234 The Slot V7  
  Far Side Block
236 The Far Side f7A ** 2
237 Black Streak f7B **  
238 School For the Gifted f7A **  
239 Larsen f7B+ ** 1
240 Thagomizer f7A+ *** 3
241 Dringo Gaeaf Low V7 *** 1
242 Belly Flop V2 *  
243 Area 2 Problem 22 V0 *  
244 Area 3 Problem 8 V5 * 1
245 Area 3 Problem 15 V0+  
246 Area 3 Problem 16 V1 **  
247 Yard dog V0+ *  
248 Uncle Pete's Arete V1 * 1
249 Area 5 problem 8 V1 **  
250 Mat's slab V0 * 4
251 The Smith route V2 **  
252 Willy's Crack V5 ** 2
253 Gibbon * f6B+ * 1
254 Larsen (Stand)
-
f6B * 1
255 Railroader *
-
f6B+ ** 2
256 Problem 10 *
-
f6A+ * 1
257 Heaven groove *
-
f5 5c ** 1
258 Heaven groove sds *
-
f6A 1
259 Stairway *
-
f4+ 5b **  
260 Stairway sds *
-
f6A+ 1
261 Blue jam *
-
f4+ 5b * 1
262 The Bird * f7A 1
263 The Atheist *
-
f6C+ ** 1
264 Hanging Groove *
-
f5+ ** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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