UKC

Climbs 207
Rocktype Gabbro

A beautiful day at Porth Ysgo. The Higginson Scar, V4. © Simon Richardson

Crag features

Bouldering by the sea a couple of miles from Hell's Mouth in the Lleyn Peninsula.

A beautiful venue by the sea, with some good boulders.
Most of the boulders are not tidal.
However, mats are essential as there are a lot of high ball problems and the landings are not good.

Porth Ysgo Tide times - http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/tide/uk/#forecastTable
Beastly Squirrel - 25/Jun/11
Fantastic rock - good friction (not quite gritstone) and great holds (not quite font) make a superb combination and probably amongst the best climbing I've done. Stacks of rock, and you could invent new problems all day! You really need a pad because of the rocky landings, but where possible people have "filled in" the bigger holes so that the landings are ok with a pad. Some of the boulders are tidal and some aren't, but there is plenty to do even if the tide is in. There is also a small beach on the far right side looking out to sea, which you can get to down the wooden steps. This is excellent for kids, and there is some bouldering here to that doesn't seem to be in the guidebook for some reason.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Area 1
2 The Seat V0+ * 8
3 Sweet Desserts V8 1
4 Area 1 Problem 3 V1 * 25
5 Area 1 Problem 4
-
V0- * 29
6 Grump Slap V4 * 17
7 Hogiau Llangefni V5 * 6
8 Area 1 Problem 7
-
V1 * 14
9 Area 1 Problem 8
-
V1 * 9
10 Area 1 Problem 9
-
V2 * 11
11 Get some slap on we're going out. * f6B 1
  Area 2
13 Super Cheers
-
V0 * 41
14 Super Cheers (SDS) V5 15
15 Area 2 Problem 2
-
V0 * 58
16 Fantastic Day V3 45
17 Area 2 Problem 4
-
V0- * 48
18 Flange Arete V4 * 4
19 The Ysgo Flange
-
V2 ** 194
20 Full Flangellation V8+ **  
21 Simon's Arete V6 * 5
22 Simon's Arete SDS V8+ 1
23 Area 2 Problem 6
-
V3 * 68
24 Piano V2 * 3
25 Ble Mae Charlie V6 5
26 GWP V6 3
27 Rawhide V7 **  
28 Area 2 Problem 7 V2 24
29 Area 2, Problem 7 SDS f7A ** 17
30 Area 2, problem 8
-
V5 4
31 Area 2 Problem 9 V0- * 47
32 Area 2 Problem 10
-
V0- * 48
33 Area 2 Problem 11 V1 * 5
34 Truth
-
V1 ** 133
35 Truth sds V8 25
36 Justice
-
V1 * 88
37 Justice SDS
-
V6 7
38 Area 2 Problem 13
-
V0 ** 3
39 Area 2 Problem 13 LHS V2 1
40 Really Cool Toys V0+ * 48
41 Really Cool Toys SDS V6 * 47
42 Toys Right Hand V6 * 11
43 Chaos Theory (problem 16 area2) V8+  
44 Calm Before The Storm V7 **  
45 Area 2 Problem 17
-
V0 * 11
46 Area 2 Problem 18
-
V0 * 12
47 Area 2 Problem 19 V0 * 8
48 Area 2 Problem 20 V0 * 7
49 Ysbeidiau Heulog
-
V4 ** 26
50 Higginson's Scar
-
V4 6a *** 192
51 Higginson Scar Right-Hand V6 8
52 Area 2 Problem 25
-
V1 * 20
53 Area 2 Problem 26
-
V0+ * 17
54 What It Is To Burn V11 1
55 Dolly Rocker V11  
56 Scar face V2 **  
57 Slap handed V5 *** 2
58 Crack slap V2 ** 2
59 Dringo Gaeaf V5 *** 1
60 Winter swell V5 **  
61 Ysgo Magic V6 *** 3
62 The Shield *
-
f6A+ ** 2
63 GWP Left Hand * f7A+ * 1
  Area 3
65 Paddle Foot V6 5
66 Joystick V2 ** 36
67 Joystick SS
-
V7 * 15
68 Jones' Eliminate V3 * 32
69 Jones' Eliminate SS V8 ** 5
70 Grooverider
-
V0 ** 61
71 Area 3 Problem 5
-
V0- ** 31
72 Area 3 Problem 6
-
V0- * 25
73 Simplicity
-
V0+ ** 22
Climb name Grade
74 Black Krispy Traverse V5 * 4
75 Area 3 Problem 10
-
V0 * 11
76 BK Arete V4 * 8
77 Area 3 Problem 12
-
V0 * 9
78 Area 3 Problem 13 V0 ** 8
79 Area 3 Problem 14
-
V0 6
80 Area 3 Problem 17
-
V0 2
81 Area 3 Problem 18
-
V0- 17
82 Area 3 Problem 19 V2 5
83 Watch Me Jumpstart f7A * 2
84 Area 3 Problem 20 V1 * 9
85 PG's Slab V1 ** 10
86 The Uncle V7 1
87 Opus Campus V8+  
88 The Incredible Shaking Man V3 *** 120
89 The Incredible Shaking Man SS
-
V7 *** 64
90 Perrin's Crack V2 *** 131
91 Perrin's Crack SS
-
V7 ** 20
92 Beach Boy Arete
-
V4 ** 65
93 Beach Boys Arete SDS
-
V5 ** 27
94 Pet Sounds V8+ 1
95 Uncle Pete's Groove
-
V0+ ** 26
96 Area 3 Problem 30
-
V0 * 3
  Area 4
98 Van Guff V0- ** 20
99 Klem's Wall V3 5
100 Adam's Wall V3 4
101 Brave Sir Noel V2 3
102 Cured Weakling V6 *** 6
103 VG Central V3 ** 7
104 Sack The Preacher V8 **  
105 Area 4 problem 7 V0 * 3
106 Area 4 problem 7 SDS V0+ * 1
107 The Ysgo Flake V3 ** 18
108 Throbbin's Arete V4 ** 2
109 Area 4 Problem 11
-
V0 * 6
110 Area 4 Problem 12
-
V0- * 9
111 Area 4 Problem 13
-
V0- * 6
112 Nodder's Flake V5 1
  Area 5
114 Bubbles V8  
115 Here Comes The Sun V2 ** 5
116 Here Comes The Sun SDS
-
V6  
117 Foam Party V6 ** 24
118 Conservative Party V8+  
119 Area 5 Problem 5
-
V0- * 5
120 Area 5 Problem 6
-
V0- * 4
121 Area 5 problem 7
-
V1 ** 4
122 Area 5 problem 9
-
V1 * 4
123 Shred Arete f6B+ * 1
124 Area 5 Problem 11
-
V7 1
125 The Shelf
-
V0+ * 31
126 The Ramp V3 *** 167
127 The Ramp Direct V3 ** 8
128 Porn Makes Me Horny V10 5
129 Brian Spray V5 * 58
130 Unmarked Grave V4 ** 80
131 Unmarked Ramp V4 ** 7
132 Tide Of Dreams V10 4
133 Talking Dog V4 * 13
134 Talking Closer V6 ** 3
135 Closer V3 ** 90
  Area 6
137 Red Rum V2 * 19
138 Floppys Arete V0+ ** 38
139 The Ysgo Fear Test V2 * 2
140 Johnny's Slab V4 ** 35
141 Ysgo Crack V1 *** 99
142 Lip Flip V6 ** 1
143 Lip Flip SDS V9  
144 The Fred Nicole Roof
-
f8B ***  
145 Left Said Fred V11  
146 Area 6 problem 11
-
V0- * 4
Climb name Grade
147 Area 6 problem 13
-
V0+ * 2
148 Area 6 Problem 17
-
V0- * 4
149 Hanging Bell Traverse
-
V5 1
  Area 7
151 Howling Hound V7 * 24
152 Tents at Midnight V6 ** 5
153 The 11 O'Clock Show
-
V6 ** 3
154 Ugly Women V3 ** 101
155 Ugly Hounds V3 * 2
156 Early Morning Wigwam V6 ** 8
157 Tough Dogs
-
V1 * 39
158 Fast Cars V5 *** 101
159 Area 7 Slab Opposite Fast Cars
-
V0 * 5
160 Throbber V6 4
161 Mutant Child
-
V5 ** 40
162 Mutant Child SDS V8 *** 20
163 Anaconda V9 8
164 Lo Lo Crouch V10 1
165 Lo Lo V12 1
166 Area 7 Problem 10
-
V7  
167 Tough Cars * V8 * 1
  Area 8
169 Shredded Feet
-
V1 ** 15
170 Rice Krispy Arete
-
V0- ** 23
171 Rice Krispy Arete SDS
-
V4 ** 3
172 Area 8 Problem 3
-
V1 5
173 Popcorn Party V6 *** 153
174 Toffee Crisp V6 ** 3
175 Unnamed V0- V0- * 4
176 Unnamed V0 V0 * 11
177 Jets to Brazil V5 * 19
178 Jawbreaker V5 ** 129
179 Jawbreaker SS f7B *** 4
180 CopPorn Party * f4+ 1
181 Area 8 Problem 8 *
-
f5 1
  Area 9
183 Away From the Numbers V6 ** 6
184 American Rafiki
-
V4 ** 16
185 American Idiot f7A+ **  
  Area 10
187 V3 area 10 V3 1
188 Heaven Groove V2 ** 7
189 Trons Brown V4 *** 3
190 Made In Heaven V4 *** 29
191 Fear of God
-
V5 ** 2
192 Stairway.. V1 ** 3
193 The Prodigal Son f6B+ ***  
194 The Prodigal Son SS f7A ***  
195 The Buttermilks Buzz f6B ** 1
196 The Buttermilks Buzz SS f7A **  
197 Ding Dong's Arete SDS V8 *** 3
198 The Slot V7  
  Far Side Block
200 The Far Side f7A ** 2
201 Black Streak f7B **  
202 School For the Gifted f7A **  
203 Larsen f7B+ ** 1
204 Thagomizer f7A+ *** 3
205 Dringo Gaeaf Low V7 ***  
206 Belly Flop V2 *  
207 Area 2 Problem 22 V0 *  
208 Area 3 Problem 8 V5 * 1
209 Area 3 Problem 15 V0+  
210 Area 3 Problem 16 V1 **  
211 Yard dog V0+ *  
212 Uncle Pete's Arete V1 *  
213 Area 5 problem 8 V1 **  
214 Mat's slab V0 * 3
215 The Smith route V2 **  
216 Willy's Crack V5 **  
217 Gibbon * f6B+ * 1
218 Larsen (Stand)
-
f6B * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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