Climbs 243
Rocktype Gabbro

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A beautiful day at Porth Ysgo. The Higginson Scar, V4. © Simon Richardson

Crag features

Bouldering by the sea a couple of miles from Hell's Mouth in the Lleyn Peninsula.

A beautiful venue by the sea, with some good boulders.
Most of the boulders are not tidal.
However, mats are essential as there are a lot of high ball problems and the landings are not good.

This page really needs updating in line with the new guide.. so many ‘area x problem x’ entries that are out of sync now..
mrphilipoldham - 10/Jul/19
Porth Ysgo Tide times - http://magicseaweed.com/Hells-Mouth-Surf-Report/27/tide/uk/#forecastTable
Beastly Squirrel - 25/Jun/11
Fantastic rock - good friction (not quite gritstone) and great holds (not quite font) make a superb combination and probably amongst the best climbing I've done. Stacks of rock, and you could invent new problems all day! You really need a pad because of the rocky landings, but where possible people have "filled in" the bigger holes so that the landings are ok with a pad. Some of the boulders are tidal and some aren't, but there is plenty to do even if the tide is in. There is also a small beach on the far right side looking out to sea, which you can get to down the wooden steps. This is excellent for kids, and there is some bouldering here to that doesn't seem to be in the guidebook for some reason.
RobertHepburn - 04/Sep/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Area 1
2 The Seat V0+ * 12
3 Sweet Desserts V8 1
4 Area 1 Problem 3 V1 * 36
5 Area 1 Problem 4
-
V0- * 40
6 Grump Slap V4 * 20
7 Hogiau Llangefni V5 * 6
8 Area 1 Problem 7
-
V1 * 19
9 Area 1 Problem 8
-
V1 * 18
10 Area 1 Problem 9
-
V2 * 16
11 The Ysgo Diamond * f6B * 2
12 Circumvention * f6A * 1
13 Circumvent * f5  
14 Get some slap on we're going out. * f6B 1
15 The Porth Ysgo Crocodile * V2 2
  Area 2
17 Super Cheers
-
V0 * 68
18 Super Cheers (SDS) V5 23
19 Area 2 Problem 2
-
V0 * 73
20 Fantastic Day V3 56
21 Area 2 Problem 4
-
V0- * 57
22 Flange Arete V4 * 12
23 The Ysgo Flange
-
V2 ** 244
24 Full Flangellation V8+ **  
25 Simon's Arete V6 * 11
26 Simon's Arete SDS V8+ 1
27 Area 2 Problem 6
-
V3 * 78
28 Piano V2 * 4
29 Ble Mae Charlie V6 15
30 GWP V6 7
31 Rawhide V7 ** 2
32 Area 2 Problem 7 V2 25
33 The Nose f7A ** 26
34 Area 2, problem 8
-
V5 10
35 Area 2 Problem 9 V0- * 59
36 Area 2 Problem 10
-
V0- * 59
37 Area 2 Problem 11 V1 * 14
38 Truth
-
V1 ** 156
39 Truth sds V8 29
40 Justice
-
V1 * 104
41 Justice SDS
-
V6 9
42 Area 2 Problem 13
-
V0 ** 3
43 Area 2 Problem 13 LHS V2 2
44 Really Cool Toys V0+ * 50
45 Really Cool Toys SDS V6 * 51
46 Toys Right Hand V6 * 14
47 Chaos Theory (problem 16 area2) V8+ 2
48 Calm Before The Storm V7 ** 1
49 Area 2 Problem 17
-
V0 * 13
50 Area 2 Problem 18
-
V0 * 14
51 Area 2 Problem 19 V0 * 8
52 Area 2 Problem 20 V0 * 9
53 Ysbeidiau Heulog
-
V4 ** 29
54 Higginson's Scar
-
V4 6a *** 229
55 Higginson Scar Right-Hand V6 8
56 Area 2 Problem 25
-
V1 * 21
57 Area 2 Problem 26
-
V0+ * 18
58 What It Is To Burn V11 1
59 Dolly Rocker V11  
60 Scar face V2 **  
61 Slap handed V5 *** 3
62 Crack slap V2 ** 2
63 Dringo Gaeaf V5 *** 1
64 Winter swell V5 **  
65 Ysgo Magic V6 *** 3
66 Fantastic day standing start * f3 5
67 Ysgo flange righthand *
-
f6A+ * 12
68 NWB 6 * f6B+ 1
69 Amyl and the sniffers * f6A 1
70 The Shield *
-
f6A+ ** 21
71 It's all chaos * f6B * 1
72 GWP Left Hand * f7A+ * 2
73 Theoretically speaking * f6A+ 1
74 Leftover * f5+ 1
75 Life by the drop * f5 * 1
76 Bonkers * f6A 1
77 Easy slab * f4 1
78 Juggy lip * f4+ 1
  Area 3
80 Paddle Foot V6 5
81 Joystick V2 ** 46
82 Joystick SS
-
V7 * 21
83 Jones' Eliminate V3 * 49
84 Jones' Eliminate SS V8 ** 6
85 Grooverider
-
V0 ** 83
Climb name Grade
86 Area 3 Problem 5
-
V0- ** 44
87 Area 3 Problem 6
-
V0- * 31
88 Simplicity
-
V0+ ** 31
89 Black Krispy Traverse V5 * 4
90 Area 3 Problem 10
-
V0 * 13
91 BK Arete V4 * 8
92 Area 3 Problem 12
-
V0 * 11
93 Area 3 Problem 13 V0 ** 9
94 Area 3 Problem 14
-
V0 7
95 Area 3 Problem 17
-
V0 2
96 Area 3 Problem 18
-
V0- 18
97 Area 3 Problem 19 V2 5
98 Watch Me Jumpstart f7A * 2
99 Area 3 Problem 20 V1 * 9
100 PG's Slab V1 ** 12
101 The Uncle V7 3
102 Opus Campus V8+  
103 The Incredible Shaking Man V3 *** 150
104 The Incredible Shaking Man SS
-
V7 *** 70
105 Perrin's Crack V2 *** 157
106 Perrin's Crack SS
-
V7 ** 29
107 Beach Boy Arete
-
V4 ** 74
108 Beach Boys Arete SDS
-
V5 ** 29
109 Pet Sounds V8+ 1
110 Uncle Pete's Groove
-
V0+ ** 32
111 Area 3 Problem 30
-
V0 * 4
112 The Incredible Shaking Man LH *
-
f6B+ ** 3
113 Area 3 Problem 35 *
-
f4 1
114 Area 3 Problem 35 SS *
-
f5+ 1
115 Chester Racer * f6B+ * 3
116 Problem 36 * f6A * 1
117 Problem 36 sds - the sick boy sitter * f6B * 1
  Area 4
119 Van Guff V0- ** 22
120 Klem's Wall V3 6
121 Adam's Wall V3 4
122 Brave Sir Noel V2 3
123 Cured Weakling V6 *** 8
124 VG Central V3 ** 9
125 Sack The Preacher V8 **  
126 Area 4 problem 7 V0 * 6
127 Area 4 problem 7 SDS V0+ * 1
128 The Ysgo Flake V3 ** 20
129 Throbbin's Arete V4 ** 2
130 Area 4 Problem 11
-
V0 * 7
131 Area 4 Problem 12
-
V0- * 10
132 Area 4 Problem 13
-
V0- * 7
133 Nodder's Flake V5 2
134 Area 4 problem 7a * f4 1
  Area 5
136 Bubbles V8  
137 Here Comes The Sun V2 ** 5
138 Here Comes The Sun SDS
-
V6  
139 Foam Party V6 ** 25
140 Conservative Party V8+  
141 Area 5 Problem 5
-
V0- * 5
142 Area 5 Problem 6
-
V0- * 4
143 Area 5 problem 7
-
V1 ** 4
144 Area 5 problem 9
-
V1 * 4
145 Shred Arete f6B+ * 1
146 Area 5 Problem 11
-
V7 3
147 The Shelf
-
V0+ * 37
148 The Ramp V3 *** 194
149 The Ramp Direct V3 ** 9
150 Porn Makes Me Horny V10 6
151 Brian Spray V5 * 78
152 Unmarked Grave V4 ** 97
153 Unmarked Ramp V4 ** 10
154 Tide Of Dreams V10 4
155 Talking Dog V4 * 23
156 Talking Closer V6 ** 7
157 Closer V3 ** 101
158 Atomic sausage * f6B 1
  Area 6
160 Red Rum V2 * 21
161 Floppys Arete V0+ ** 44
162 The Ysgo Fear Test V2 * 3
163 Johnny's Slab V4 ** 38
164 Ysgo Crack V1 *** 127
165 Lip Flip V6 ** 1
166 Lip Flip SDS V9  
167 The Fred Nicole Roof
-
f8B ***  
168 Left Said Fred V11  
169 Area 6 problem 11
-
V0- * 4
170 Area 6 problem 13
-
V0+ * 2
Climb name Grade
171 Area 6 Problem 17
-
V0- * 4
172 Hanging Bell Traverse
-
V5 1
  Area 7
174 Howling Hound V7 * 26
175 Tents at Midnight V6 ** 7
176 The 11 O'Clock Show
-
V6 ** 5
177 Ugly Women V3 ** 112
178 Ugly Hounds V3 * 2
179 Early Morning Wigwam V6 ** 9
180 Tough Dogs
-
V1 * 42
181 Fast Cars V5 *** 111
182 Area 7 Slab Opposite Fast Cars
-
V0 * 5
183 Throbber V6 4
184 Mutant Child
-
V5 ** 42
185 Mutant Child SDS V8 *** 20
186 Anaconda V9 8
187 Lo Lo Crouch V10 1
188 Lo Lo V12 1
189 Area 7 Problem 10
-
V7  
190 Virgini trains * f6A * 1
191 Popcorn Party (Alt. Start) * f7A+ 3
192 Tough Cars * V8 * 1
  Area 8
194 Shredded Feet
-
V1 ** 16
195 Rice Krispy Arete
-
V0- ** 28
196 Rice Krispy Arete SDS
-
V4 ** 4
197 Area 8 Problem 3
-
V1 8
198 Popcorn Party V6 *** 159
199 Toffee Crisp V6 ** 6
200 Unnamed V0- V0- * 4
201 Unnamed V0 V0 * 12
202 Jets to Brazil V5 * 20
203 Jawbreaker V5 ** 135
204 Jawbreaker SS f7B *** 5
205 No spray no lay * f6B * 1
206 CopPorn Party * f4+ 2
207 Area 8 Problem 8 *
-
f5 1
208 Pop porn party * f6B * 1
  Area 9
210 Away From the Numbers V6 ** 6
211 American Rafiki
-
V4 ** 17
212 American Idiot f7A+ **  
213 Spaz boy * f6A ** 1
214 Darla * f6A 1
  Area 10
216 V3 area 10 V3 1
217 Heaven Groove V2 ** 9
218 Trons Brown V4 *** 4
219 Made In Heaven V4 *** 31
220 Fear of God
-
V5 ** 2
221 Stairway.. V1 ** 3
222 The Prodigal Son f6B+ ***  
223 The Prodigal Son SS f7A ***  
224 The Buttermilks Buzz f6B ** 1
225 The Buttermilks Buzz SS f7A **  
226 Ding Dong's Arete SDS V8 *** 3
227 The Slot V7  
  Far Side Block
229 The Far Side f7A ** 2
230 Black Streak f7B **  
231 School For the Gifted f7A **  
232 Larsen f7B+ ** 1
233 Thagomizer f7A+ *** 3
234 Dringo Gaeaf Low V7 ***  
235 Belly Flop V2 *  
236 Area 2 Problem 22 V0 *  
237 Area 3 Problem 8 V5 * 1
238 Area 3 Problem 15 V0+  
239 Area 3 Problem 16 V1 **  
240 Yard dog V0+ *  
241 Uncle Pete's Arete V1 * 1
242 Area 5 problem 8 V1 **  
243 Mat's slab V0 * 4
244 The Smith route V2 **  
245 Willy's Crack V5 **  
246 Gibbon * f6B+ * 1
247 Larsen (Stand)
-
f6B * 1
248 Railroader *
-
f6B+ ** 1
249 Problem 10 *
-
f6A+ * 1
250 Heaven groove *
-
f5 5c **  
251 Heaven groove sds *
-
f6A 1
252 Stairway *
-
f4+ 5b **  
253 Stairway sds *
-
f6A+ 1
254 Blue jam *
-
f4+ 5b *  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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