Climbs 101
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces W

View Stats

Summer evening cragging © Marek

Crag features

A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Approach notes

From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12
Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09
Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05
I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03
The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pinnacle Area
2 Herford's Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b ** 28
3 Double Crack D * 614
4 The Arete HS 4b * 461
5 Easy Corner D 295
6 Easy Crack D 334
7 Right-hand Crack VD 308
8 Pinnacle Crack VD 357
9 Pinnacle Arete VD 385
10 Sheltered Crack VD * 834
11 Bow Crack HVD 3c 237
12 Slanting Crack HVD 4a 442
13 Overhanging Chockstone Crack VD * 348
14 The Fifth Horseman HVS 5a 266
15 Icebreaker E2 5b 107
16 V Corner S 4b 251
17 Thin Crack VS 5a 394
18 Muscle Crack S 4a 529
19 Bloody Crack S 4a 331
20 Block Cracks
-
S 110
21 The Nose HS 4b * 343
  Pilgrim's Progress Area
23 The Nithin S 4a * 673
24 Flake Crack HS 4a 270
25 Main Corner S 4a 46
26 The Flywalk S 4a * 510
27 The Niche S 4a ** 1136
28 Niche Arete VS 5a ** 469
29 Orm and Cheep E1 6a 43
30 Studio HS 4b ** 1064
31 Nursery Arete HVS 5b 53
32 A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' Chimney HS 4a * 117
33 Pod Crack E1 6a 74
34 Pitoned Crack HVS 5b 41
35 Pilgrim's Progress HS 4b ** 731
Climb name Grade
36 Little Pillar VS 4b 293
37 Ledgeway HVS 5a * 273
38 Short But Sweet HVS 6a 5
39 Short and Sweet V2 6a 14
40 Short and sweet (sit start)
-
V3 2
41 No Name S 4b 368
42 Keep Buttress HVS 5b 176
43 Keep Corner S 4a * 808
  The Scoop Area
45 Peek Arete VS 4c 5
46 Keep Arete VS 4b ** 839
47 Scoop Face Indirect VS 4c ** 46
48 Scoop Direct HVS 5a ** 180
49 Scoop Face HVS 5a *** 1158
50 Scoop Face Direct E1 5c * 124
51 Scoop Wall E1 5b * 129
52 Footstool Left S 4a 209
53 Piano Stool HVS 5b 22
54 Footstool Right HVD 4a * 290
55 Layback VD 274
56 Combs Climb S 4a * 355
57 Staircase HVD 241
  The Crack Area
59 The Two-step HVD 53
60 Fat Man's Chimney M 101
61 Come On Eileen E2 5c  
62 Plankton E4 6a 6
63 Assorted Pondlife HVS 5a 5
64 Deep Crack VD 76
65 Deep Chimney HVD 76
66 Unbirthday climb E1 5b 4
67 Birthday Climb HVS 5b * 47
68 The Crack VS 4b ** 764
69 Nozag VS 4c *** 1299
70 Zigzag Crack HS 4b ** 302
Climb name Grade
71 Zig-a-Zag-a VD * 334
72 Long Climb VD 242
  Central Tower
74 Central Tower VD * 324
75 Atropine VS 4b ** 354
76 The Ugly Bloke E3 6a 5
77 Primadonna E4 6a 9
78 Belladonna E2 5c ** 74
79 Green Crack S 4a * 117
80 The Blusher
-
VS 4b 3
81 Morocc'n Roll E1 5c 32
82 Syringe Benefit E1 5c 3
83 Columbal Convenience
-
S 1
84 Peg Crack E1 5c 4
85 Iron Age Fortitude E4 6b ** 1
86 Keith George: The Movie
-
E1 5b * 1
87 Stoke The Engines E1 5b * 9
  South Buttress
89 Hodgkinson's Chimney M 11
90 South Crack D 10
91 South Buttress D 19
92 V-Chimney D * 21
93 Southern Arete HS 4b 12
94 Bubbly Wall HVS 5a 3
95 Vanishing Crack HS 4b * 28
96 The Vice VD 9
97 Struggle HS 4b 7
98 Boomerang M 10
99 Boomerang Buttress VS 4b 8
100 Overhanging Chimney HVD 7
101 Koala M 5
102 The Face V0 5a 5
103 Travelator * S 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer peat