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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 154
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 417m a.s.l
Faces W

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Summer evening cragging © Marek

Crag features

An excellent though not very extensive outcrop which can be considered as Windgather's bigger brother, with taller, steeper routes and more climbs in the orange zone. Many of the routes follow steep cracks and grooves and on most the protection is excellent.

Castle Naze has seen the attention of climbers for a century or so now. It is not as popular as nearby Windgather, the lack of really easy routes and the fact that fixing belays above the cliff is awkward tends to reduce the number of teams interested in top-roping. Also the style of climbing, often involving steep jamming, requires a bit of technique and gritstone savvy. If you have learnt the basics indoors or at Windgather, a session or two here should hone your technique before moving on to even bigger things.

The cliff faces west into the afternoon sun but is exposed to the west wind because of its situation close to the ridge of the hill - great for keeping the midges away in high summer but too bracing for most on drafty spring and autumn days. The crag dries quickly except for the north-facing areas of rock.

Approach notes

The crag is situated high above the village of Combs, to the south of Chapel-en-le-Frith. There is parking for 3 cars in a muddy layby on the minor road that runs between Dove Holes and Combs. Walk up the road for 30m and then follow the steep track that slants rightwards up the cliff passing a steep wooden fence to the left-hand end of the cliff.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12
Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09
Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05
I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03
The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Pinnacle Area
2 Herford's Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b ** 30
3 Double Crack D * 638
4 Double Crack Eliminate
-
V0 5
5 The ArĂȘte HS 4b * 491
6 The ArĂȘte Right-hand
-
V1  
7 Easy Corner D 316
8 Easy Crack D 357
9 Right-hand Crack VD 335
10 Pinnacle Crack VD 376
11 Pinnacle ArĂȘte VD 405
12 Sheltered Crack VD * 883
13 Bow Crack HVD 3c 257
14 Slanting Crack HVD 4a 470
15 Overhanging Chockstone Crack VD * 370
16 The Fifth Horseman HVS 5a 280
17 Icebreaker E2 5b 112
18 V-Corner S 4b 264
19 Thin Crack VS 5a 415
20 Muscle Crack S 4a 560
21 Bloody Crack S 4a 353
22 Block Cracks
-
S 4a 112
23 The Nose HS 4b * 370
24 The Nithin S 4a * 713
25 Flake Crack HS 4a 284
  Pilgrim's Progress
27 Main Corner S 4a 50
28 The Flywalk S 4a * 536
29 The Niche S 4a ** 1221
30 Niche ArĂȘte VS 5a ** 501
31 Orm and Cheep E1 6a 44
32 Studio HS 4b ** 1119
33 Nursery ArĂȘte HVS 5b 57
34 A.P. Chimney HS 4a * 124
35 Pod Crack E1 6a 77
36 Pitoned Crack HVS 5b 42
37 Pilgrim's Progress HS 4b ** 767
38 Little Pillar VS 4b 316
39 Ledgeway HVS 5a * 291
40 Short and Sweet V2 19
41 Short and Sweet Sit-start
-
V3 2
42 No Name S 4b 390
43 Keep Buttress HVS 5b 180
44 Keep Corner S 4a * 866
  Scoop Face
46 Peek ArĂȘte VS 4c 6
47 Keep ArĂȘte VS 4b ** 881
48 Scoop Face Indirect VS 4c ** 46
49 Scoop Direct HVS 5a ** 196
50 Scoop Face HVS 5a *** 1218
51 Scoop Face Direct E1 5c * 129
52 Scoop Wall E1 5b * 131
53 Footstool Left S 4a 225
54 Piano Stool HVS 5b 23
55 Footstool Right HVD 4a * 309
56 Layback VD 294
57 Combs Climb S 4a * 378
Climb name Grade
58 Travelator S 4b 1
59 Staircase HVD 262
  The Crack
61 The Two-step HVD 57
62 Fat Man's Chimney M 104
63 Come On Eileen E2 5c  
64 Plankton E4 6a 7
65 Assorted Pondlife HVS 5a 5
66 Deep Crack VD 83
67 Deep Chimney HVD 79
68 Unbirthday Climb E1 5b 4
69 Birthday Climb HVS 5b * 53
70 The Crack VS 4b ** 800
71 Nozag VS 4c *** 1372
72 Zigzag Crack HS 4b ** 328
73 Zig-a-Zag-a VD * 365
74 Long Climb VD 255
  Central Tower
76 Central Tower VD * 340
77 Atropine VS 4b ** 382
78 Primadonna E4 6a 9
79 Belladonna E2 5c ** 84
80 The Ugly Bloke E3 6a 5
81 Green Crack S 4a * 129
82 The Blusher
-
VS 4b 3
  The Quarry
84 Morocc'n Roll E1 5c 33
85 Syringe Benefit E1 5c 3
86 Columbal Convenience
-
VS 4b 1
87 Chamonaze Blues
-
E4 6b *  
88 Peg Crack E1 5c 6
89 Iron Age Fortitude E4 6b ** 1
90 Keith George: The Movie
-
E1 5b * 1
91 Stoke the Engines
-
E1 5b * 9
92 Left Chimney
-
S  
93 Right Chimney
-
S  
94 Oversight Crack
-
HVS 5b  
  Right-hand Rocks
96 Hodgkinson's Chimney M 11
97 South Crack D 10
98 South Buttress D 19
99 V-Chimney D * 21
100 Southern ArĂȘte HS 4b 12
101 Bubbly Wall HVS 5a 3
102 Vanishing Crack HS 4b * 28
103 The Vice VD 9
104 Struggle HS 4b 7
105 Boomerang M 10
106 Boomerang Buttress VS 4b 8
107 Overhanging Chimney HVD 7
108 Duck-Billed Platypus HS 4c  
109 Koala M 5
110 Wombat VD  
111 Kangaroo VS 5a *  
112 Opossum D  
113 Tasmanian Devil HD  
114 Wallaby S 4b  
Climb name Grade
115 Bandicoot M  
116 Dingo S 4b  
  Western Combs
118 Eeny
-
S 4b  
119 Meeny
-
HVS 5b  
120 Inbetweenie
-
S 4c  
121 Miny
-
D  
122 Mo
-
VS 4c  
123 Frank's Route
-
HVS 5a  
124 Let It Go
-
VS 4c  
  Pyegreave Brook
126 Insectos from Hell
-
VS 5a  
  Allstone Lee Rocks
128 Wiggledunce
-
VD  
129 Bees
-
VD  
130 Honeycomb
-
S 4a  
131 Thorax
-
D  
132 Cyber Insekt
-
HS 4b  
  Short Edge
  1st Buttress
135 Flies of Ambition, Windshields of Fate
-
HVD 3
136 Earthquake Crack
-
VS 4c *  
137 Richter 5
-
HVS 5b  
138 Off the Scale
-
HVS 5a  
139 Quaking All Over
-
HS 4a 1
140 Corner Crack
-
HVD 4a 1
141 Framed
-
VS 5a  
142 Shockwave
-
HVS 5b  
  2nd Buttress
144 Slanting Crack
-
HS 4b * 2
145 Seismic Wall
-
HVS 5a  
146 Inspector Remorse
-
E1 5c *  
147 Andy's Crack
-
HVD 4a 1
148 Short ArĂȘte
-
S 3
  3rd Buttress
150 Carpet Crack
-
HS 1
151 Hooverville
-
HVS 4c  
152 Tremor
-
VS 4c  
  Hob Tor
154 It's Not Easy Being Green D 1
155 Antidote
-
VD 3
156 Rose
-
S 2
157 City Dweller
-
VD  
158 A Past Gone Mad
-
VD 3
159 High Tension Line
-
D 3
160 The Mixer
-
D 3
161 Uncorrected Personality Traits
-
D 4
162 City Hobgoblins
-
VS 5a 2
163 Hobs of Hell
-
HS 4c * 1
164 Furry Green Atom Bowl
-
HS 4b 3
165 Imperfect Lichenous
-
VS 4b 1
166 Imperfect Lichenous Variant
-
S 2
167 N.E. Hobbs
-
HS 5b 2
168 Hob Crack
-
VS 4c * 3
169 Hobjection Overruled
-
HS 4b 2

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