Climbs 101
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces W

Summer evening cragging © Marek

Crag features

A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Approach notes

From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.


Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12
Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09
Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05
I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03
The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Pinnacle Area 
2Herford's Girdle Traverse
VS 4b **24
3Double CrackD *558
4The AreteHS 4b *417
5Easy CornerD 246
6Easy CrackD 286
7Right-hand CrackVD 269
8Pinnacle CrackVD 320
9Pinnacle AreteVD 348
10Sheltered CrackVD *725
11Bow CrackHVD 3c 213
12Slanting CrackHVD 4a 404
13Overhanging Chockstone CrackVD *317
14The Fifth HorsemanHVS 5a 252
15IcebreakerE2 5b 97
16V CornerS 4b 221
17Thin CrackVS 5a 359
18Muscle CrackS 4a 456
19Bloody CrackS 4a 304
20Block Cracks
S 101
21The NoseHS 4b *311
 Pilgrim's Progress Area 
23The NithinS 4a *581
24Flake CrackHS 4a 243
25Main CornerS 4a 39
26The FlywalkS 4a *442
27The NicheS 4a **959
28Niche AreteVS 5a **420
29Orm and CheepE1 6a 40
30StudioHS 4b **903
31Nursery AreteHVS 5b 44
32A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' ChimneyHS 4a *105
33Pod CrackE1 6a 69
34Pitoned CrackHVS 5b 33
35Pilgrim's ProgressHS 4b **637
36Little PillarVS 4b 259
37LedgewayHVS 5a *245
38Short But SweetHVS 6a 4
39Short and SweetV2 13
40Short and sweet (sit start)
V3 2
41No NameS 4b 318
42Keep ButtressHVS 5b 167
43Keep CornerS 4a *697
 The Scoop Area 
45Peek AreteVS 4c 3
46Keep AreteVS 4b **755
47Scoop Face IndirectVS 4c **45
48Scoop DirectHVS 5a **159
49Scoop FaceHVS 5a ***1063
50Scoop Face DirectE1 5c *119
51Scoop WallE1 5b *122
52Footstool LeftS 4a 189
53Piano StoolHVS 5b 18
54Footstool RightHVD 4a *242
55LaybackVD 246
56Combs ClimbS 4a *310
57StaircaseHVD 223
 The Crack Area 
59The Two-stepHVD 50
60Fat Man's ChimneyM 91
61Come On EileenE2 5c  
62PlanktonE4 6a 4
63Assorted PondlifeHVS 5a 3
64Deep CrackVD 64
65Deep ChimneyHVD 72
66Unbirthday climbE1 5b 4
67Birthday ClimbHVS 5b *45
68The CrackVS 4b **670
69NozagVS 4c ***1156
70Zigzag CrackHS 4b **265
71Zig-a-Zag-aVD *287
72Long ClimbVD 204
 Central Tower 
74Central TowerVD *278
75AtropineVS 4b **301
76The Ugly BlokeE3 6a 3
77PrimadonnaE4 6a 5
78BelladonnaE2 5c **67
79Green CrackS 4a *96
80The Blusher
VS 4b 2
81Morocc'n Roll
E1 5c 30
82Syringe Benefit
E1 5c 3
83Columbal Convenience
S 1
84Peg Crack
E2 6a 4
85Iron Age FortitudeE4 6b **1
86Keith George: The Movie
E1 5b *1
87Stoke The EnginesE1 5b *9
 South Buttress 
89Hodgkinson's Chimney
M 10
90South CrackD 9
91South Buttress
D 18
D *20
93Southern Arete
HS 4b 12
94Bubbly Wall
HVS 5a 3
95Vanishing Crack
HS 4b *26
96The Vice
D 8
HS 4b 6
M 9
99Boomerang Buttress
VS 4b 7
100Overhanging Chimney
101KoalaM 4
102The FaceV0 5

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