Climbs 101
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces W

Summer evening cragging © Marek

Crag features

A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Approach notes

From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12
Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09
Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05
I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03
The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pinnacle Area
2 Herford's Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b ** 41
3 Double Crack D * 571
4 The Arete HS 4b * 430
5 Easy Corner D 256
6 Easy Crack D 297
7 Right-hand Crack VD 279
8 Pinnacle Crack VD 326
9 Pinnacle Arete VD 353
10 Sheltered Crack VD * 744
11 Bow Crack HVD 3c 219
12 Slanting Crack HVD 4a 415
13 Overhanging Chockstone Crack VD * 319
14 The Fifth Horseman HVS 5a 256
15 Icebreaker E2 5b 97
16 V Corner S 4b 227
17 Thin Crack VS 5a 368
18 Muscle Crack S 4a 463
19 Bloody Crack S 4a 311
20 Block Cracks
-
S 101
21 The Nose HS 4b * 318
  Pilgrim's Progress Area
23 The Nithin S 4a * 597
24 Flake Crack HS 4a 249
25 Main Corner S 4a 40
26 The Flywalk S 4a * 453
27 The Niche S 4a ** 1000
28 Niche Arete VS 5a ** 432
29 Orm and Cheep E1 6a 39
30 Studio HS 4b ** 938
31 Nursery Arete HVS 5b 48
32 A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' Chimney HS 4a * 107
33 Pod Crack E1 6a 65
34 Pitoned Crack HVS 5b 32
35 Pilgrim's Progress HS 4b ** 660
36 Little Pillar VS 4b 264
37 Ledgeway HVS 5a * 249
38 Short But Sweet HVS 6a 5
39 Short and Sweet V2 6a 14
40 Short and sweet (sit start)
-
V3 2
41 No Name S 4b 324
42 Keep Buttress HVS 5b 165
43 Keep Corner S 4a * 713
  The Scoop Area
45 Peek Arete VS 4c 3
46 Keep Arete VS 4b ** 778
47 Scoop Face Indirect VS 4c ** 41
48 Scoop Direct HVS 5a ** 167
49 Scoop Face HVS 5a *** 1109
50 Scoop Face Direct E1 5c * 123
51 Scoop Wall E1 5b * 126
52 Footstool Left S 4a 193
53 Piano Stool HVS 5b 22
54 Footstool Right HVD 4a * 251
55 Layback VD 251
56 Combs Climb S 4a * 321
57 Staircase HVD 226
  The Crack Area
59 The Two-step HVD 51
60 Fat Man's Chimney M 94
61 Come On Eileen E2 5c  
62 Plankton E4 6a 4
63 Assorted Pondlife HVS 5a 3
64 Deep Crack VD 65
65 Deep Chimney HVD 75
66 Unbirthday climb E1 5b 4
67 Birthday Climb HVS 5b * 40
68 The Crack VS 4b ** 703
69 Nozag VS 4c *** 1201
70 Zigzag Crack HS 4b ** 276
71 Zig-a-Zag-a VD * 297
72 Long Climb VD 213
  Central Tower
74 Central Tower VD * 285
75 Atropine VS 4b ** 318
76 The Ugly Bloke E3 6a 3
77 Primadonna E4 6a 5
78 Belladonna E2 5c ** 64
79 Green Crack S 4a * 97
80 The Blusher
-
VS 4b 3
81 Morocc'n Roll E1 5c 28
82 Syringe Benefit E1 5c 3
83 Columbal Convenience
-
S 1
84 Peg Crack E1 5c 4
85 Iron Age Fortitude E4 6b ** 1
86 Keith George: The Movie
-
E1 5b * 1
87 Stoke The Engines E1 5b * 9
  South Buttress
89 Hodgkinson's Chimney M 10
90 South Crack D 9
91 South Buttress D 18
92 V-Chimney D * 20
93 Southern Arete HS 4b 12
94 Bubbly Wall HVS 5a 3
95 Vanishing Crack HS 4b * 26
96 The Vice VD 8
97 Struggle HS 4b 6
98 Boomerang M 9
99 Boomerang Buttress VS 4b 7
100 Overhanging Chimney HVD 6
101 Koala M 4
102 The Face V0 5a 5

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