Climbs 101
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 400m a.s.l
Faces W

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Summer evening cragging © Marek

Crag features

A minor edge of mostly sound, weathered natural rock, with a looser sandy section beyond. Exposed to the elements, but quick drying with the majority of routes in the low to middle grades up to 15m in height. In particular the historical significant climb, The Scoop (HVS 5a).

Approach notes

From Doveholes on the A6 (Buxton to Chapel-en-le-Frith) follow signs to the railway station. 200m past railway bridge head left (Cowlow Lane) for 1 mile to small layby (on left opposite footpath sign to Chapel). The crag and approach are obvious.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
WARNING: As of the 13.05.12 the “hidden” flake was loosened by a climber, and the flake was deemed to be unsafe and the flake was subsequently removed. There may still be some loose rock, so be aware.
peat - 14/May/12
Super venue.
BennoC - 12/Jun/09
Come on all you sexigenarians or whatever the term is for a 6 decade piss artist. Last night I sampled the sublime delights of Timothy Taylor's Landlord at the Beehive. Oh yeah, nearly forgot - the climbing was pretty good too!
Colin Ardron - 02/Sep/05
I shouldn't really say this, but I think Castle Naze is a little unknown gem. Granted it's not an enormous crag, but it does have a lot going for it. It's generally pretty quiet with only a few people ever climbing there, and you might even find yourselves the only ones. That kind of solitude is pretty rare these days in the Peak. It also has, one could arguably say one of the best views in the Peak District and its pretty stunning on a nice sunny mid week evening. Even if the climbing isn't extensive, it does have (for me) some classic climbs. A note, it is pretty loose up top, so a helmet is definitely advisable. Finally, there is also a great pub down the hill in Combs called the Beehive which is a nice finish to an evening.
Stuart Barker - 10/Jan/03
The parking is very limited (3 cars) and the road single track. However, the walk from the ample parking at Chapel railway station, is pleasant and takes about 25 mins. Cross the track and take the RH path.
Paul J - 18/Jun/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Pinnacle Area
2 Herford's Girdle Traverse
-
VS 4b ** 28
3 Double Crack D * 633
4 The Arete HS 4b * 484
5 Easy Corner D 311
6 Easy Crack D 351
7 Right-hand Crack VD 330
8 Pinnacle Crack VD 372
9 Pinnacle Arete VD 399
10 Sheltered Crack VD * 872
11 Bow Crack HVD 3c 254
12 Slanting Crack HVD 4a 467
13 Overhanging Chockstone Crack VD * 368
14 The Fifth Horseman HVS 5a 277
15 Icebreaker E2 5b 110
16 V Corner S 4b 261
17 Thin Crack VS 5a 412
18 Muscle Crack S 4a 552
19 Bloody Crack S 4a 352
20 Block Cracks
-
S 112
21 The Nose HS 4b * 364
  Pilgrim's Progress Area
23 The Nithin S 4a * 705
24 Flake Crack HS 4a 282
25 Main Corner S 4a 50
26 The Flywalk S 4a * 535
27 The Niche S 4a ** 1206
28 Niche Arete VS 5a ** 489
29 Orm and Cheep E1 6a 44
30 Studio HS 4b ** 1111
31 Nursery Arete HVS 5b 56
32 A.P. 'absolutely perpendicular' Chimney HS 4a * 122
33 Pod Crack E1 6a 77
34 Pitoned Crack HVS 5b 42
35 Pilgrim's Progress HS 4b ** 765
Climb name Grade
36 Little Pillar VS 4b 311
37 Ledgeway HVS 5a * 287
38 Short But Sweet HVS 6a 5
39 Short and Sweet V2 6a 14
40 Short and sweet (sit start)
-
V3 2
41 No Name S 4b 385
42 Keep Buttress HVS 5b 180
43 Keep Corner S 4a * 859
  The Scoop Area
45 Peek Arete VS 4c 6
46 Keep Arete VS 4b ** 876
47 Scoop Face Indirect VS 4c ** 46
48 Scoop Direct HVS 5a ** 193
49 Scoop Face HVS 5a *** 1205
50 Scoop Face Direct E1 5c * 128
51 Scoop Wall E1 5b * 130
52 Footstool Left S 4a 219
53 Piano Stool HVS 5b 23
54 Footstool Right HVD 4a * 308
55 Layback VD 286
56 Combs Climb S 4a * 375
57 Staircase HVD 256
  The Crack Area
59 The Two-step HVD 56
60 Fat Man's Chimney M 103
61 Come On Eileen E2 5c  
62 Plankton E4 6a 7
63 Assorted Pondlife HVS 5a 5
64 Deep Crack VD 81
65 Deep Chimney HVD 79
66 Unbirthday climb E1 5b 4
67 Birthday Climb HVS 5b * 53
68 The Crack VS 4b ** 796
69 Nozag VS 4c *** 1361
70 Zigzag Crack HS 4b ** 326
Climb name Grade
71 Zig-a-Zag-a VD * 358
72 Long Climb VD 251
  Central Tower
74 Central Tower VD * 338
75 Atropine VS 4b ** 378
76 The Ugly Bloke E3 6a 5
77 Primadonna E4 6a 9
78 Belladonna E2 5c ** 83
79 Green Crack S 4a * 126
80 The Blusher
-
VS 4b 3
81 Morocc'n Roll E1 5c 33
82 Syringe Benefit E1 5c 3
83 Columbal Convenience
-
S 1
84 Peg Crack E1 5c 6
85 Iron Age Fortitude E4 6b ** 1
86 Keith George: The Movie
-
E1 5b * 1
87 Stoke The Engines E1 5b * 9
  South Buttress
89 Hodgkinson's Chimney M 11
90 South Crack D 10
91 South Buttress D 19
92 V-Chimney D * 21
93 Southern Arete HS 4b 12
94 Bubbly Wall HVS 5a 3
95 Vanishing Crack HS 4b * 28
96 The Vice VD 9
97 Struggle HS 4b 7
98 Boomerang M 10
99 Boomerang Buttress VS 4b 8
100 Overhanging Chimney HVD 7
101 Koala M 5
102 The Face V0 5a 5
103 Travelator * S 4b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer peat