Climbs 57
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 450m a.s.l
Faces S

Not This Time . . . © R Potter

Crag features

A small, broken-up bouldering edge that is also the highest edge in Staffordshire. Occasional traffic but worth a visit on a quiet day or a spare few hours. Home to some great highball easy problems and harder problems such as 'The Fin', 'The Quantum Leap', 'Project Quantum' and 'This is my Church'.

Approach notes

Walk up footpath just after 'The New Inn' past a house on your right, down a muddy farm track all the way up to the crag. Beware of the big bull!

Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info
What a wonderful place. A magic day in early Dec. To chip in on the 'two guides' situation - I had the Peak District Bouldering guide (I think that therefore makes a three guide book situation?!) and also the BMC 2009 guide for comparison. I did circa 35 problems up to font 5+/6a. In a nutshell, the BMC guide seemed to be rather over-graded on many of the probs. I can barely climb much beyond uk tech grade 5b, yet according to the BMC guide I had managed a few 5c's, a couple of 6a's and even a 6b. I reckon I prob did manage a couple of things that were maybe 5c (yay!), but I very much doubt I did anything worth 6a or more.
Dr Matt - 04/Dec/14
As pointed out by Whealiebob, there's a naming / grading discrepancy between the BMC 2004 (and 2009) guide and High Over Buxton (2003). By some quirk of synchronicity, the crag was developed and written up by both sets of guide authors completely independently (a situation that wasn't addressed in the recent BMC updated guide). Ideally an attempt should be made to reconcile the two...hopefully I'll get around to it soon...
Bullybones - 28/Apr/10
Nice location and good, rough Gritstone. Its also in High Over Buxton, but with entirely different problem names (and grades!!)
Whealiebob - 28/Sep/09
Thats This is my Church V5/6. On the other photograph- you can see Quantum Buttress in the distance, just past the fence, with Project Quantum up the arete in view.
teapot - 24/Jan/09
hughdyno9/04 whats this?
jim - 04/Aug/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Warren
2 Problem 52 Traverse V3 2
3 Left Arete f4 28
4 Side-wall f5+ 22
5 Crack f5 25
6 Lair f6A+ * 14
7 Fine Slab f5 * 38
8 Fine Slab Arete f4 26
9 Rock Fusion f6A * 23
10 Warren Piece V0 5b 16
11 Hairy Hat Man V3 ** 10
  Right of the Wall and Fence
13 Claustrophobic Arete f5+ * 7
14 Horseshoe Arete f5 * 31
15 Swiss Cheesed f6A+ 2
16 Quantum Leap f7B 4
17 Project Quantum V6 ** 8
  Triangular Boulder
19 Problem 13: Peak Bouldering 2011 f6A+ 8
20 Problem 14: Peak Bouldering 2011 f5+ 13
21 Problem 15: Peak Bouldering 2011 f6A 5
  Fin Area
23 Vinyl Groove V0 5
24 Problem 34 V0 3
25 Sheep's Clothing V0- 8
26 Problem 32 V1 10
27 This is My Church f6C+ 24
28 The Fin f5 30
29 The Fin Right V2 2
30 Ear Flake f4+ 50
31 Gastonitus V4 1
32 Short Arete f5+ 46
33 Crumble Left f5+ 29
34 Crumble f6B 24
35 Crumble Right f5 38
36 Wolf Prow f5+ 35
37 Underground Mantel f4+ 41
38 Underground Left V2 3
39 The Underground f6B 24
40 Deep Jam / Grumo's Crevice V0- 11
41 Overground LH V5 ** 1
42 Overground f5 1
43 Overground Right f5 23
44 The Farmers Wife V0 11
45 The Kind Farmer V2 20
46 Low Traverse V1 5b 13
  Wolf Block
48 Wolf Bite f6B * 19
49 Wolf Bite Right f5+ * 36
50 Ramp Wall f5 * 42
51 The Ramp f4 * 46
52 Ramp Face Right f5+ * 37
53 The Wolf V4 1
  The Quarry
55 Wizz / Quarry Arete Stand Up-ish V0 5a 14
56 Cherrybomb V2  
57 Quarrior V5+ ** 1
58 Quarry Crack V0- 4a 16
59 Quarry Face V1 5b 15
60 The Devil's Chimney V0- 7
61 The Balance Trail V2 6
62 Problem 6 V0 11
63 Iron Slab V2 3

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Bullybones