Climbs 175
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 101m a.s.l
Faces S

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Pleasley Vale, the perfect training venue! © sfletch

Crag features

Sheltered by trees therefore shaded in summer, and can be warmer in winter.

Approach notes

Drive into Mansfield and follow signs for Mansfield Woodhouse. After a narrow bridge go left (Station Rd). Turn left into Vale Road (not well signposted). Straight on under the bridge, continue until you see a row of stone houses and then branch off to the right (signposted St. Chad's church) continue until the end of the road where you will find the church and a muddy area (in front of a gate) where you can park cars. Go over the bridge, go right following the boundary of the garden through the gate, continue on the footpath for a minute or two and through the trees you will see the first crag on the left hand side (with easier climbs) and then a minute or two later another (bigger) crag.

Strictly speaking this crag's in Derbyshire- the River Meden, crossed on the approach, is the county boundary.
cheque - 07/Jul/15
I wrote the guide to Pleasley Vale and had the topo's drawn which I still have, if any one is interested.
David Dicks - 26/Dec/14
Can anyone share a route/topo guide for Pleasley Vale? I've tried to get a old copy of peak climbs off fleaBay but no joy so far.
Knot-Paul - 18/Jun/13
For anyone who is interested? A Video including Frogger 7b+ish. A fairly obvious eliminate slap on Frog Buttress and The Pinch Super Direct 7c. Can be found here https://vimeo.com/62161252
Dolph - 19/Mar/13
Just come across this site.I think that J.Bradley ,P.Baker and I were probably the first to produce a guide to climbs at Pleasley Vale in summer 1948.We had to remove (perhaps illegally) lots of ivy.Our guide has 20 named climbs in it.
Eric Richardson - 13/Feb/13
the path that leads to the crag. is up for closure as been climbing there today. we need to phone the number on the post were the concrete arched block is.far end.we must keep the path open.no more climbing what a shame that would be. robert oakton.
robert oakton - 11/Jul/12
The boulder problems don't seem to be listed here, but you can find a guide with pictures here: http://issuu.com/niallgrimes/docs/boulder_britain_issuu/search?q=pleasely+vale
chriskourpas - 26/May/12
Pleasant location and worthwhile for some undisturbed soloing and bouldering. Some of the rock feels pretty polished - probably more by nature than by human as this ain't a place that sees much traffic. Some of the blocks feel pretty wobbly, especially on Sewer Turn!
samuel_w - 04/Apr/11
Glad to see DerwentDiluted has sorted out the order of the climbs and the new ones, great work!
Rhythm24 - 10/Dec/09
underated! great for training, unlimited variations of routes at all grades.
BJQ - 29/Nov/07
But dont quote me on that.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I think the stone is Magnesium Rich limestone.
Pep'sBro - 05/Aug/06
I remember climbing there in the late '60's - amazed to see it has become so famous!
Howard Cobb - 26/Jul/06
If 'Pleasley Vale Activity Centre' have the barriers down just say your going there if its open, or say your going to/picking someone up from the crag these both normally work.
Eddie1234 - 20/Jul/06
This is not a crag to travel to from any great distance as its not worth it. However if you live close to Mansfield its worth an evening. There is an overhang area, the rock under which can be used for traversing and training and one or two easier climbs for beginners.The rock is quite unusual and I think is known locally as Mansfield Stone ( Southwell Minster is made out of it). There is quite a good and strenuous VS in the middle of the crag, but the rock is slightly suspect so its quite a necky lead at the grade. Worth a visit with a couple of beginners which is what I have used the crag for on a summers afternoon. But Birchens is only 25 minutes away from Pleasley Vale. You may have to access the crag from the Mansfield Woodhouse end of the vale as the security guy at Pleasly Vale Mills may not let you through as the road is private.
Marcus Tierney - 13/Jan/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Frog Buttress
2 Cub Climb
-
M 48
3 Scout Crack
-
HVD 4a 30
4 Scout Wall
-
E2 5c * 1
5 Fear Of Flying
-
HVS 5b 9
6 Fear of VTO
-
E1 5b  
7 V.T.O
-
E1 5c 5
8 V.T.O Start V1 40
9 Frog Pop, Frog Buttress. f6A * 4
10 Frogger f7B 6
11 Grounded
-
E2 6a * 13
12 Grounded Start V2 5c * 53
13 Scrambled
-
E3 6a ** 10
14 Scrambled Start V2 5c 48
15 Ceiling Zero
-
E3 6a ** 4
16 Ceiling Zero Start V3 6a * 38
17 Ceiling Zero Direct / Ground Zero f5 19
18 D.T.s
-
E2 5c 5
19 D.T.s Start
-
f6A 1
20 The Flue E1 5c 16
21 Frog Buttress Traverse V1 5b 50
22 Sewer Turn VS 4c * 67
23 Down the Pan
-
VS 4b 9
24 Leap Frog
-
f4+ 4
25 Frog's Back
-
VD * 29
26 Frog's Back Direct
-
S 4b 21
27 Frog Spawn HVD 4a * 8
28 Frog
-
HD 21
29 Croaked
-
VS 5a 10
30 Toadpole S 4a 25
31 Toad Wall
-
HVD 4a * 31
32 Make It Snappy
-
HS 4a * 41
33 Crocodile Corner HVD 4a ** 74
34 Crocodile Corner Direct Finish
-
VS 4c * 3
35 Crocodile Corner Arete
-
HVD 4a ** 22
36 Crocodile Corner Arete - Direct Start HS 4b * 2
37 Merlin's Arete VD 14
38 Merlin's Crack
-
HD * 40
39 Merlin's Wall
-
M ** 66
40 Forever Amber S 4a * 27
41 Amber Block S 4a 15
42 Giant's Steps
-
D 33
43 Giant's Arete
-
HVS 4c * 16
44 Peg Wall VS 4c 8
45 Peg Wall Start
-
f4 2
46 Root Route
-
M 19
47 Flakey Pastry
-
D 9
48 Black Wall
-
E1 5a 5
49 Panther
-
D 6
50 Tiny's Tower
-
HS 4b 2
51 Apples and Pears
-
HD 2
52 Wrong Hand Flake
-
HS 4b  
53 Big Fist Crack
-
VS 5a  
54 Jaguar S 1
  Jungle Area
56 Tree Corner
-
VD 1
57 Jungle Route
-
VD 1
58 Bower Corner
-
HD 1
59 Bower Crack
-
HD 1
60 Green Groove
-
HD 2
61 Green Corner
-
D 4
Climb name Grade
  White Wall
63 Hang About HVD 4a 10
64 Banana Crack
-
VD 10
65 Pea-pod
-
HD 7
66 Bat Wall
-
HVS 5b ** 4
67 The Belfry
-
VS 5a 6
68 Monty
-
HD 9
69 Python
-
HS 4b 7
70 White Wall HS 4a 10
71 Nick's Nick
-
S 4a 3
72 Bobbin
-
HS 4a 2
73 Ivy route D 1
74 Nettle Corner HD 2
  Avalanche Buttress
76 Avalanche Crack VD 1
77 Avalanche Wall VD  
  Giants Staircase Area
79 Giant's Staircase M 8
80 Willies Wall
-
HD 2
81 Overhang Wall VS 4c 2
82 Ivanhoe Crack
-
VD 7
83 Santa's Chimney VD 13
  The Turret
85 Flax Wall VS 4c * 16
86 Turret Buttress Overhang E1 5c * 13
87 Turret Buttress Overhang Direct E5 6a * 6
88 Wandering Wolverine
-
S 4a  
89 Buttress Wall
-
E3 5c 4
90 Tensing Stretch HVD 4a * 27
91 Tensing Stretchier VS 4c  
92 Hunt's Chimney VD 26
93 Hillary Traverse
-
VD 8
94 Thermal HVS 5a 4
95 Thermal Start
-
f5 1
96 Flying Crack
-
HVS 4c * 11
97 Flying Corner
-
VS 4b 8
98 Fallen Angel
-
VS 4b 1
  Monks Wall
100 Fluted VS 4c * 5
101 Funnel
-
HVD 4a 5
102 Sinter
-
HS 4c 2
103 Filter Corner
-
E2 5b  
104 Rasputin E2 5c * 6
105 Rasputin Start
-
f6A 2
106 Three pockets * f6C+  
107 Bill's Movva's V7 * 1
108 Seam stress * f6B * 4
109 Monk's Crack
-
HVS 5b 6
110 Monk's Crack Start
-
f5 3
111 Monks Crack Left-Hand VS 5c * 1
112 Abbott's Crack HVS 5b 6
113 Abbott's Crack Start
-
f4+ 4
114 Monk's Wall
-
E1 5c 3
115 Monk's Wall Start
-
f6A 7
116 Dirty Habit Wall HVS 4c/5a ** 2
117 Dirty Habit Corner HVS 5a * 16
118 Nun's Nasty VS 4c 6
119 Nun's Crack
-
VD * 25
120 Convent Wall
-
E1 5c 4
121 Convent Arete
-
VS 5a  
122 Monks Wall Traverse f6A 90
123 Crack Left f4 28
Climb name Grade
124 Flake f6A 34
125 Pillar Crack f5 * 32
126 Crack Right f4+ 34
127 Seam f6A 39
128 Yew Monk V8 1
129 Spark plug V3 * 13
130 Side tracked V4+ * 7
131 Been Done * f6A 2
  Yew Tree Wall
133 Yew Tree Traverse
-
f7A+ *** 47
134 Yew Two 7b+ ** 10
135 Left Arete f6A 30
136 Holly Tree Wall f6A+ 28
137 Statement of Yewf f6B+ 32
138 Yew Tree Wall f7A 38
139 Yew Tree Corner Start f6B 40
140 Yew Tree Corner
-
E2 6a ** 4
141 Yew Tree Corner (Variation 2) f7B * 12
142 Prob 13 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree Wall V5 51
143 Bulge Left
-
f6C 8
144 The Pinch f7A 57
145 The pinch eliminate - no pinch f7B * 14
146 The Pinch Superdirect f7C ** 4
147 The Pinch Superdirect Extension/Morpho V10 1
148 Left Side Story V9 2
149 Left Side Story Extention V10 1
150 Prob 17 (Rockfax 09) Yew Tree Wall V2 40
151 P18 Up To Jug Ledge V3 * 56
152 The Groove/Right On
-
f6C 3
153 Groove Eliminate
-
f7A 2
154 Groove Move
-
f6B 5
155 Jim's Litmus Test
-
f6B+ 4
156 Bulge f6A+ * 49
157 Demented
-
E1 6a 5
158 The Crease
-
f7A+ 5
159 Yew What? f6C+ 34
160 Problem 19 PB 98 f7A 32
161 The Arete (Cringing Arete Start) V0 68
162 Cringing Arete
-
VS 4c 11
163 Right On V3 6a 7
164 Yew Tree Reverse into Yew Tree Wall
-
V7 1
165 Yew Tree Reverse into Yew Tree Corner
-
V6 2
166 Yew Tree Reverse into The Pinch
-
V8 2
167 Yew Tree Reverse into Right On
-
V5 2
168 Yew Tree Reverse into Statement of Yewf
-
V7 1
169 Yew Tree Reverse into The Pinch Eliminate (no pinch) f7B 1
  Green Wall
171 Cringing Crows VS 4c 4
172 Crow's Mantle
-
VS 4c 4
173 FitzHugh's Fill-In
-
HS 4b  
174 Green Wall HS 4a 7
175 Snowdrop
-
D 5
176 Toothless S 2
177 Ruthless
-
VS 4b  
178 Rose Scoop HVD 2
179 Rose Arete
-
HS 4a 1
  Lower Tier
181 Bluto VD  
182 Popeye's Crack HS 4b  
183 Olive Oil's Wall S  
184 Sweet Pea S  
  Girdle Traverse
186 Girdle Traverse none 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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