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UKClimbing Team

Climbs 427
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

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Mark on the short sharp crux of Little Plumb (pitch one) © Wft

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Electric quarry
2 Roraima
-
HVS 5b 3
3 Holy Schmitt E3 5c 2
4 Helmut Schmitt E6 6b ** 16
5 Cabbage Crack E4 6a ** 139
6 Jasper E3 6a ** 123
7 The Heat
-
E5 6a 4
8 Oliver E4 6a *** 79
9 Millionaire Touch E4 6b *** 63
10 X Calibre E6 6b 1
11 Brown Corner HVS 5a * 62
12 One 'ard Move
-
E6 6b 1
13 Damocles E3 5b * 18
14 Golden Boy E5 6b * 2
15 Emotional Rescue E5 6b * 11
16 John Peel E2 5b * 55
17 Creeping Flesh E4 6a 1
18 Icarus E1 5b 4
19 Vicky
-
E1 5b  
  The Slurper
21 Daedalus
-
E4 6a 1
22 Psychopath
-
E1 5b 4
23 Lard Wall
-
E5 6a 1
24 Gollyberry
-
E2 5c 11
25 Acrophobia HVS 5a * 44
26 J Arthur E1 5b 5
27 Easy Action E1 5b ** 64
28 The Slurper E1 5c * 55
29 The Disillusioned Brew Machine
-
E3 5c 4
30 Get Six into the Mix * E3 5c * 3
  Mortuary Buttress
32 Drainpipe Groove VS 4c 16
33 Speed Kills E4 6a * 8
34 The Morgue E3 5c * 18
35 Mortuary Steps HVS 5b ** 144
36 Cardiac Arrest E4 6a * 9
37 Hart Attack E5 6b 1
38 Beta Blocker E5 6b  
39 Little Capucin HVS 5a * 52
  The Triglyph
41 Who the Hell
-
E1 5c  
42 To Hell and Back E3 5b  
43 How the Hell VS 4c * 74
44 What the Hell VS 4b * 133
45 Hell Hath No Fury E2 5b  
46 Morning Crack S 4a * 69
  Ivy Buttress
48 Naze VD 9
49 Child's Arete HVS 5a 5
50 Emanon
-
HS 8
  Prayer Wheel Wall
52 Omlette E3 6a 9
53 Om E1 5b * 270
54 Shit Wall E2 5b 60
55 Nowt Said
-
E2 5c  
56 Mani E1 5b * 388
57 Blinkers E2 5c * 12
58 Padme HVS 5a ** 659
59 Sign My Name E2 5c 14
60 Asparagus VS 4b * 327
61 Looking Through Gary Gibson's Eyes HVS 5a 21
62 Robin E2 5b 16
63 Cock-a-leekie Wall E2 5c 155
64 Vinegar Fly HVS 5a 8
65 Minestrone HVS 4c * 76
66 Rosehip Wine HS 4a * 157
  Pearly Gates Buttress
68 Jungle Arete
-
VD 7
69 Pollyanna E1 5b 16
70 Lesley Ann E3 6a 1
71 Horizon S 4a 34
72 Canine of Brine E2 5b 1
73 Juggernaut VS 5a 13
74 Scanner E1 5b  
75 Master of Tides VS 4b 2
76 Lost Horizon S 4a 62
77 Aux Bicyclettes VD 56
78 The Crux
-
HVS 5c 1
79 Fingal's Flue HS 3c 30
80 Fingal's Cave HVS 5a 17
81 The Groper VS 4c 6
82 No Statesman E3 6b  
83 Scurvy Knave
-
HVS 5b 2
84 The White Knight VD 67
85 Ben
-
E2 5c 4
86 Gabriel and the Pearly Gates VS 4c *** 745
87 Solitaire E1 5b * 108
88 Haven't Got a Cluedo E2 5c * 3
89 St. Peter E1 5c * 314
90 St. Paul E3 5c 15
91 Parachute VS 4b * 283
92 Parr Kor E5 6a  
93 Roman Candle VS 4c 14
94 Au Gratin HS 4a 65
95 Honeysuckle Lane E1 5b 1
96 Moss Side E2 5b 1
97 Didgery Doodah E1 5a  
  George's Wall
99 George's Wall Eliminate 1 f6A  
100 George's Wall Eliminate 2 f6C 6
101 George's Wall Dyno f7B 6
102 Quent's Legendary Dyno f7C * 4
103 The Groove f6A+ 7
  Minus Ten Wall
105 Cracked Wall f3+ 70
106 Flat Wall f4+ 74
107 Triangle Link-up f5+ * 50
108 Minus Wall E1 5b 19
109 Minus Wall Start f4+ * 78
110 Minus Wall Right f6B+ * 76
111 Minus Wall Traverse f6B+ * 46
112 Minus Ten HVS 5a * 349
113 Great Escape E1 5b 5
114 Jam Sandwich E5 6b 13
115 Traffic Jam E5 6b ** 120
116 Double Scotch E2 5b * 388
117 Cointreau HVS 5a * 179
118 The Flashing Fisher E3 5c 19
119 Pygmies Walk Tall E1 5b * 39
120 Thrutch HVS 5a 32
121 Flat Light E2 5c 1
122 Quent's Dyno f7B ** 84
123 Not Ned's Problem f7B+ * 33
124 Harris Problem f7B+ * 4
125 White Ladder f7B+ ** 17
126 White Ladder (sit start) f7C 10
127 The JABP f7C ** 3
128 Sharp Pocket f7B+ *** 1
129 Little Warm-up f5 43
130 Egyptian Feet f7A+ *** 102
131 Egyptian Variation f7A+ * 20
132 Easy dyno f6A * 52
133 One Arm Bandit f7B * 56
134 Kirton Dyno f7A+ * 99
135 Sean's Problem f7B+ ** 25
136 Sean's Problem Variant f7C 2
137 Zippy's Sidepull f7B+ ** 37
138 Guidebook Eleven f6C+ * 157
139 Slopey Sidepull f7A+ * 35
140 Gav's Problem f7B * 4
141 Harris Problem 1 f7B *** 1
142 Lucian's Undercut f7A ** 96
143 Zippy's Problem f7B+ ** 24
144 Zippy's Problem variant 1 f7B+ * 11
145 Zippy's Problem variant 2 f7C ** 8
146 Pinch 2 f8A+ *** 2
147 Jason's Variant f8A **  
148 Nasty Traverse
-
f7C+ * 5
149 The Double Double f6C * 148
Climb name Grade
150 Young American f7A+ ** 107
151 Prefab Brick Cake f5 * 36
152 Face Off f6B 51
153 Coffee High f6B * 25
154 Facade f6C 29
155 Megatron f7A+ * 39
156 Megatron Turbo f7A+ 3
157 High Break f5 * 44
158 Middle Break f6B * 167
159 No Break f6C+ ** 39
160 Slopey Sidepull Variant f7B * 13
161 Zeno's Sidepull f7C 5
162 Coffee Mate * V4+ 2
163 Zippy's Problem Variant 4 * V9 1
164 Minus 10 pence * f6C+ 1
165 The Double Trouble * f6B 3
166 Sean’s variation * f7B 1
  Carl's Walk
168 Tiger Crack E2 6a * 3
169 CostaBrava HVS 5b 7
170 Carl's Wark Traverse f7B *** 1
171 Little Crack
-
VS 5a 15
172 Squeek E5 6a  
173 More Air than Chocolate f6A * 12
174 Flake and Pillar E1 5b 43
175 Au Revoir Monodoigt f7B ** 1
176 Bubbles Start f6A+ ** 19
177 Bubbles Wall E4 6b ** 124
178 Bubbles Original E3 5c * 37
179 Black Kabul E5 6b * 16
180 Carls Wark Crack E2 5c ** 215
181 Scarab E6 6b ** 16
182 All Systems Go E6 6c 1
183 Green Crack VS 4c * 105
184 Soapsuds E3 6a * 51
185 Shaky Crack
-
VD 9
186 Soapsuds Left f5 6
187 soapsuds Crack f4+ 9
188 Soapsuds Right f6A 2
189 Soapsuds Traverse f6B+ * 21
  Medusa Bay
191 Hammer
-
VS 4b 1
192 Whet
-
E2 5b 2
193 Sickle E1 5a * 37
194 Scythe E3 5c * 1
195 Gesemini Direct E3 5c * 45
196 Boat Pushers Wall E3 5c * 39
197 Big Boris E5 6a 4
198 Wee Doris E4 5c *** 270
199 Medusa E1 5b ** 261
200 Gesemini original E1 5b 16
201 Pickpocket E4 6a ** 101
202 Balthazaaaaah E5 6a * 4
203 The Artful Dodger E5 6b 2
  Bitterfingers Bay
205 Frisco Bay VS 4c * 68
206 County Marin E4 6a  
207 Bay of Pigs
-
E1 5b 6
208 The B.A.R.T Extension E5 6b, 5b  
209 Golden Gate HVS 5a ** 158
210 Hinges E1 5b, 5a 7
211 Bingo Wall E2 5b ** 199
212 Kelly's Eye E4 6a * 50
213 The Brighton Line E1 5b,5b * 10
214 The year of living Dangerously
-
E4 5c 1
215 Mind Blind E6 6b 2
216 The Rainbow Woman
-
E3 6a 2
217 Wallop HS 4b * 33
218 Flavour of the Month
-
E6 6b * 2
219 My Personal Pleasure
-
E6 6c 2
220 Thumb E4 6a 2
221 Belinda E4 6a * 2
222 Froth VS 4c ** 488
223 Mottled Wall
-
E4 5c 8
224 Mingtled/Mottled Wall E4 5c * 12
225 Dead Banana Crack E1 5c *** 561
226 Top Banana
-
E3 6a 8
227 Bitterfingers E4 6a *** 219
228 The Great Leveller E6 6b 2
229 Okra E4 6a * 8
230 Fe Fi Fo Fum HVS 5a * 315
231 Saag Line E4 6b  
232 Beanstalk E3 5c 7
233 Augean VS 4c * 83
234 Hercules E4 5c 3
235 Sisyphean E4 6a * 2
236 Ivy Grotto Direct HVS 5a 3
237 Slab and Arete
-
HVS 5a  
238 Anything Corner VS 4b 12
239 Mineshaft M * 44
240 Shellfish Shuffle
-
S 5
241 Tantalus HS 4b 11
  Tom's Roof
243 The Womb f6C * 35
244 Tom's Original f7A * 270
245 Tom's Original Reverse f7A 54
246 The Full Reverse f7A * 7
247 Punker Bunker f7A+ ** 88
248 Power Allowance f7B ** 65
249 Swing Thing f7C * 44
250 Harris Problem 2 f7B+ * 2
251 Figure of 8 f7B+ * 37
252 Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) f7C ** 16
253 Rack and Ruin f7C 10
254 Armbandit f7A+ ** 9
255 PDB problem 12 f7C 1
256 Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB) f7C 2
257 One Summer Problem f7C * 3
258 Pete's Power Pull f7C ** 8
259 Power trip f7C 7
260 Side Wall Traverse f7C  
261 Diamond Pinch f7C ** 7
262 The Power Pinch f7C+ 2
263 Quintesscence f8A **  
  Tom's Roof link-ups
265 Power Allowance Check f7B+ * 10
266 Triple Drop f7C 3
267 Quad-damage f7C ** 1
268 Figure of 16 f7C * 12
269 Figure of 24 f7C 1
270 Figure of minus 16 f7C ** 3
271 Figure of 0 f7C 2
272 The Womb into Tom's Original f7A ** 22
273 Tom's Original There and Back f7A+ * 37
274 The Womb into Power Allowance f7B * 4
275 Jerryatricks f7C+ * 12
276 Jerryatricks 2.0 f7C+ *** 5
277 Jerry's Problem f7C+ 2
278 Jimmyatricks f7C+ 1
279 Claude Butler f7C+ 1
280 Wack and Ruin f7C ** 4
281 Jerry-Wack-Tricks f7C+ * 1
282 The Broken Brolly Link f7C+ * 2
283 You've Pulled f8A 5
284 Abu Ali's Hand Gun f8A * 2
285 Swing Thing Reverse -Swing Thing *
-
f7C * 1
286 Swing Thing (there and back) *
-
f7C+ *  
  Tower of Babel
288 Babylon Bypass
-
HVS 4b 4
289 Glory Road VS 4b * 230
290 Sin VS 4c ** 343
291 Lucy Simmons E2 5b * 102
292 The Tower of Babel
-
E1 5b 38
293 Revulva HVS 5b 2
  Windy Buttress
295 Chantrelle E1 5a 13
296 Black Teddy
-
E2 5c 8
297 Inquisitor E2 5c * 157
298 Tuba Mirum
-
E5 6b * 2
Climb name Grade
299 Dies Irae E2 5c *** 281
300 Stuff the Turkey E4 6b 5
301 Circe E5 6b ** 62
302 Gaspera E5 6b * 2
303 Swine Vesicular E6 6b  
304 Kink E5 6b ** 19
305 Kinky 7c 1
306 Kellogg E5 6b * 23
307 Nice in Nice E5 6b * 2
308 Kingdom Come E5 6b * 18
309 Special K E4 6a * 18
310 The Flakes Direct E2 5c *** 131
311 The Flakes E2 5c ** 84
312 Armageddon E2 5c *** 260
313 Windhover E2 5c ** 313
314 Transmaiacon
-
E5 6a 2
315 Choss
-
HVS 5b 27
316 Scoop Wall E2 5c *** 465
317 Our Father E4 6b *** 126
318 Menopause E5 6b ** 17
319 Memnon E2 5c * 57
320 Memnon Variation
-
E3 5c 13
321 Racial Harmony E4 5c * 2
322 Aurora VS 4c ** 392
323 Hysterectomy E5 6c  
324 Adios Tango E4 6a * 2
325 Aurora Arête HVS 5a ** 103
326 Aurora Arete/Tiger Trot HVS 5a ** 133
327 Tiger Trot VD * 51
328 Alcasan E2 5c *** 182
329 Immortal Combat 6b+ 2
  Garage Buttress
331 Fluffy Roo Meets the Woodentops
-
6b+ 1
332 Ticket to the Underworld E4 4a,5c 1
333 Compositae Groove HVS 5a * 64
334 Trigger 7a+ 4
335 Two Ton Ted from Teddington 6b+ 6
336 Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door 6c 11
337 Bohemian 6b+ * 27
338 Empty Cartridge 6b+ * 29
339 Unloaded 6c 20
340 Reloaded 6b+ * 45
341 Matricide E4 6a 14
342 Matrix E3 5b 2
343 I Hate You 7a+ * 46
344 Four Minute Tiler E5 6b * 7
345 Alex It was Nothing Really E5 6b 1
346 La Belle et la Bete E6 6b * 5
347 Colonel Bogey E4 6a ** 38
348 Helicon E3 5c ** 79
349 Rippemoff E1 5c * 94
350 Pullemdown E5 6a *  
351 Chewemoff E4 6a * 11
352 Gerremdown E3 4c,5b ** 7
353 Turf 'em Off 6b+ 18
354 Glue 'em Back 7b 4
355 There Maybe Rubble Ahead 7b 1
356 Rubble Rouser 7c 1
357 Dig Deeper 8a * 4
358 Dig Deep For Victory 7c 13
359 Ozone Bozo 7c * 63
360 Tollbar 8a+ 6
361 Double the Rubble 7c * 6
362 Trouble with Rubble 7c+ * 8
363 The Big Apple 8a * 35
364 Golden Delicious 8a *  
365 The Lover's Leap 7b+ * 2
366 Easy Skanking E6 6b  
367 Little Plum (pitch 1) 7c+ ** 30
368 Little Plum 8a *** 29
369 Big Nose E4 6a 2
370 Ming the Merciless 8a+ * 1
371 The King of Ming (Redundant) 7b+ ** 64
372 Virgin King 7b+ ** 129
373 Virgin on the Loose E6 6b  
374 Smoothlands 6a 102
375 Lowerlands 5c 64
376 Flycatcher E5 6a 2
377 Lowlands 6c+ * 121
378 Dreamcatcher 6b+ * 253
379 Creamsnatcher 6b * 210
380 Gulp and Go 6b+ * 69
381 Evasor VS 4c ** 152
382 Can't Stop Now 6c 54
383 Redeployed 6c+ * 21
384 Up Yours 7a * 27
385 Four Thousand 6b+ * 181
386 Two Thousand 6a+ 103
387 Onwards and Upwards 6a 170
388 Nowt about Change 6b 107
389 Just End It! 6a+ * 31
390 End, Stop, Finale 6b 59
391 The Last Stop 5b 64
392 Atropos HVS 5a * 7
393 Aquiline HVS 5b * 17
394 Pendulum HVS 5a ** 100
395 My Girdle is Killing Me
-
E4 6a, 5b 2
  Other Bouldering
397 Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right) V1 5c 17
398 Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V2 6a 20
399 Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V4 6b * 11
400 Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6B 11
401 Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6A 8
402 Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6C+ 6
403 Odd Thing f7B 12
404 Arete left hand f6A * 5
405 Arete right hand f6C+ * 1
406 Problem 6 f7A 22
407 Problem 13 (Left hand Side) f7A 7
408 Triangular Pockets f6B+ ** 11
  unknown/not in guide/Incorrect, entries
410 RF, Problem 5 f7A ** 1
411 Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right) f6C 5
412 Problem 7 f7A+ 10
413 Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6) f7A 9
414 Problem 8 f7A+ 4
415 Pdb problem 1 central f7B+ * 1
416 Triangle Undercling f6C * 1
417 Blockhead's Arete f7A+ 11
418 Crimp Shrimp f6B ** 7
419 UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left. f7A 4
420 Left (UKB online topo) f6C 1
421 Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten left f6B+ 4
422 Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1 f7C 1
423 Tony's Bloody Finger E1 5b,5b 2
424 Monosod E2 5c *  
425 End of the Line E1 5b 2
426 Tower of Babel indirect E1 5b  
427 The Gherkin f7A *** 2
428 Not Zippy's Variant 3 f6C * 2
429 Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6) f6B+ 8
430 Tiger Direct VS 4c 1
431 Tiger Traverse HVS 5a  
432 Tiger Groove HS 4a  
433 Has She Been? S 4a 1
434 Mompesson Rich Pickings MVS 4c  
435 Holly HVS 5c  
436 Willow HVS 5c  
437 Problem 12 f6B 1
438 Choss Side * HVS 4c 1
439 Harris Problem 3 *
-
f7B+ 1
440 Blockheads Arete non eliminate * V0+ 5a 2
441 Phil 's phigure of 8 (minus ten) * f6C 3
442 Phil 's phigure of 16 (minus ten) * f6C+ 1
443 Phil 's phigure of 24 (minus ten) * f6C+  
444 Higherlands
-
6a 3
445 Jambon's Undercut * f7B+ 1
446 Dan Middleton * E2 5c *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers kristian and Ally Smith