UKC

Climbs 398
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

Mark on the short sharp crux of Little Plumb (pitch one) © Wood for Trees

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Electric quarry
2 Roraima
-
HVS 5b 4
3 The Disillusioned Brew Machine
-
E3 5c 4
4 Holy Schmitt E3 5c 1
5 Helmut Schmitt E6 6b ** 8
6 Cabbage Crack E4 6a ** 102
7 Jasper E3 6a ** 98
8 The Heat
-
E5 6a 1
9 Oliver E4 6a *** 63
10 Millionaire Touch E4 6b *** 39
11 X Calibre E6 6b  
12 Icarus E1 5b 4
13 Brown Corner HVS 5a * 51
14 One 'ard Move
-
E6 6b 1
15 Damocles E3 5b * 16
16 Golden Boy E5 6b * 1
17 Emotional Rescue E5 6b * 11
18 John Peel E2 5b * 47
19 Creeping Flesh E4 6a  
  The Slurper
21 Acrophobia HVS 5a * 33
22 J Arthur E1 5b 6
23 Easy Action E1 5b ** 48
24 The Slurper E1 5c * 42
25 Gollyberry
-
E2 5c 12
26 Lard Wall
-
E5 6a 1
27 Psychopath
-
E1 5b 5
28 Daedalus
-
E4 6a 1
29 Vicky
-
E1 5b  
  Triglyph/Mortuary buttress
31 Drainpipe Groove VS 4c 16
32 Speed Kills E4 6a * 8
33 The Morgue E3 5c * 19
34 Mortuary Steps HVS 5b ** 121
35 Hart Attack E5 6b 2
36 Cardiac Arrest E4 6a * 9
37 Beta Blocker E5 6b  
38 Little Capucin HVS 5a * 46
39 How the Hell VS 4c * 58
40 What the Hell VS 4b * 105
41 Hell Hath No Fury E2 5b  
42 Morning Crack S 4a * 62
  Ivy Buttress
44 Naze VD 9
45 Child's Arete HVS 5a 5
46 Emanon
-
HS 7
  Prayer Wheel Wall
48 Omlette E3 6a 8
49 Om E1 5b * 230
50 Shit Wall E2 5b 55
51 Mani E1 5b * 344
52 Padme HVS 5a ** 549
  Pearly Gates Buttress
54 looking Through Gary Gibson's Eyes HVS 5a 13
55 Asparagus VS 4b * 240
56 Robin E2 5b 13
57 Cock-a-leekie Wall E2 5c 141
58 Vinegar Fly HVS 5a 6
59 Minestrone HVS 4c * 66
60 Rosehip Wine HS 4a * 104
61 Jungle Arete
-
VD 8
62 Pollyanna E1 5b 16
63 Juggernaut VS 5a 11
64 Horizon S 4a 24
65 Lost Horizon S 4a 49
66 Aux Bicyclettes VD 44
67 Fingal's Flue HS 3c 24
68 Fingal's Cave HVS 5a 13
69 The Groper VS 4c,4b 7
70 The White Knight VD 63
71 Ben
-
E2 5c 4
72 Gabriel and the Pearly Gates VS 4c *** 630
73 Solitaire E1 5b * 92
74 St. Peter E1 5c * 288
75 St. Paul E3 5c 15
76 Parachute VS 4b * 255
77 Roman Candle VS 4c 10
78 Au Gratin HS 4a 57
79 Didgery Doodah E1 5a  
  George's Wall
81 George's Wall Eliminate 1 f6A  
82 George's Wall Eliminate 2 f6C 6
83 George's Wall Dyno f7B 4
84 Quent's Legendary Dyno f7C * 4
85 The Groove f6A+ 7
  Minus Ten Wall
87 Cracked Wall f3+ 45
88 Flat Wall f4+ 46
89 Triangle Link-up f5+ * 38
90 Minus Wall E1 5b 18
91 Minus Wall Start f4+ * 46
92 Minus Wall Right f6B+ * 50
93 Minus Wall Traverse f6B+ * 14
94 Minus Ten HVS 5a * 306
95 Great Escape E1 5b 5
96 Jam Sandwich E5 6b 13
97 Traffic Jam E5 6b ** 92
98 Double Scotch E2 5b * 321
99 Cointreau HVS 5a * 143
100 The Flashing Fisher
-
E3 5c 15
101 Pygmies Walk Tall E1 5b * 32
102 Thrutch HVS 5a 31
103 Flat Light E2 5c 1
104 Quent's Dyno f7B ** 75
105 Not Ned's Problem f7B+ * 34
106 Harris Problem f7B+ * 4
107 White Ladder f7B+ ** 17
108 White Ladder (sit start) f7C 9
109 The JABP f7C ** 3
110 Sharp Pocket f7B+ *** 1
111 Little Warm-up f5 29
112 Egyptian Feet f7A+ *** 89
113 Egyptian Variation f7A+ * 13
114 Easy dyno f6A * 40
115 One Arm Bandit f7B * 53
116 Kirton Dyno f7A+ * 88
117 Sean's Problem f7B+ ** 23
118 Sean's Problem Variant f7C 2
119 Zippy's Sidepull f7B+ ** 31
120 Guidebook Eleven f6C+ * 137
121 Slopey Sidepull f7A+ * 27
122 Gav's Problem f7B * 3
123 Harris Problem 1 f7B *** 1
124 Lucian's Undercut f7A ** 86
125 Zippy's Problem f7B+ ** 25
126 Zippy's Problem variant 1 f7B+ * 10
127 Zippy's Problem variant 2 f7C ** 8
128 Pinch 2 f8A+ *** 2
129 Jason's Variant f8A **  
130 Nasty Traverse
-
f7C+ * 5
131 The Double Double f6C * 129
132 Young American f7A+ ** 100
133 Prefab Brick Cake f5 * 19
134 Face Off f6B 29
135 Coffee High f6B * 14
136 Facade f6C 20
137 Megatron f7A+ * 34
138 Megatron Turbo f7A+ 3
Climb name Grade
139 High Break f5 * 39
140 Middle Break f6B * 147
141 No Break f6C+ ** 35
142 Slopey Sidepull Variant f7B * 9
143 Zeno's Sidepull f7C 6
144 Coffee Mate * V4+ 1
145 Zippy's Problem Variant 4 * V9 1
  Carl's Walk
147 Tiger Crack E2 6a * 2
148 CostaBrava HVS 5b 6
149 Carl's Wark Traverse f7B ***  
150 Little Crack
-
VS 5a 15
151 Squeek E5 6a  
152 More Air than Chocolate f6A * 7
153 Flake and Pillar E1 5b 37
154 Au Revoir Monodoigt f7B **  
155 Bubbles Start f6A+ ** 17
156 Bubbles Wall E4 6b ** 117
157 Bubbles Original E3 5c * 25
158 Black Kabul E5 6b * 12
159 Carls Wark Crack E2 5c ** 196
160 Scarab E6 6b ** 10
161 All Systems Go E6 6c  
162 Green Crack VS 4c * 89
163 Soapsuds E3 6a * 44
164 Shaky Crack
-
VD 9
165 Soapsuds Left f5 3
166 soapsuds Crack f4+ 3
167 Soapsuds Right f6A 1
168 Soapsuds Traverse f6B+ * 17
  Medusa Bay
170 Hammer
-
VS 4b 1
171 Whet
-
E2 5b 1
172 Sickle E1 5a * 34
173 Boat Pushers Wall E3 5c * 36
174 Big Boris E5 6a 3
175 Wee Doris E4 5c *** 240
176 Medusa E1 5b ** 213
177 Gesemini original E1 5b 15
178 Gesemini Direct E3 5c * 36
179 Pickpocket E4 6a ** 88
180 The Artful Dodger E5 6b 2
  Bitterfingers Bay
182 Frisco Bay VS 4c * 53
183 Bay of Pigs
-
E1 5b 5
184 Golden Gate HVS 5a ** 144
185 Hinges E1 5b, 5a 4
186 Bingo Wall E2 5b ** 163
187 Kelly's Eye E4 6a * 45
188 The year of living Dangerously
-
E4 5c 1
189 Mind Blind E6 6b 2
190 The Rainbow Woman
-
E3 6a 2
191 Wallop HS 4b * 27
192 Flavour of the Month
-
E6 6b * 1
193 My Personal Pleasure
-
E6 6c 1
194 Belinda E4 6a * 2
195 Froth VS 4c ** 453
196 Mottled Wall
-
E4 5c 6
197 Mingtled/Mottled Wall E4 5c * 12
198 Dead Banana Crack E1 5c *** 496
199 Top Banana
-
E3 6a 4
200 Bitterfingers E4 6a *** 177
201 The Great Leveller E6 6b 1
202 Okra E4 6a * 5
203 Fe Fi Fo Fum HVS 5a * 282
204 Beanstalk E3 5c 6
205 Augean VS 4c * 68
206 Hercules E4 5c 3
207 Sisyphean E4 6a * 2
208 ivy Grotto Direct HVS 5a 3
209 Anything Corner VS 4b 8
210 Mineshaft M * 37
211 Shellfish Shuffle
-
S 5
212 Tantalus HS 4b 9
  Tom's Roof
214 Tom's Original f7A * 229
215 Tom's Original Reverse * f7A 37
216 Tom's Original There and Back * f7A+ ** 25
217 The Womb into Tom's Original * f7A ** 15
218 The Womb f6C * 29
219 Punker Bunker f7A+ ** 71
220 Armbandit f7A+ ** 6
221 Power Allowance f7B ** 54
222 Swing Thing f7C * 36
223 One Summer Problem f7C * 3
224 Quintesscence f8A **  
225 Pete's Power Pull f7C ** 7
226 Power trip * f7C 7
227 You've Pulled * f8A 5
228 Rack and Ruin f7C 7
229 Side Wall Traverse f7C  
230 Harris Problem 2 f7B+ *  
231 Jerryatricks f7C+ * 6
232 Jerry's Problem f7C+ 2
233 PDB problem 12 f7C 1
234 Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB) f7C 2
235 Figure of 8 f7B+ * 27
236 Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) * f7C 12
237 Figure of 16 * f7C 9
238 Figure of 0 * f7C *** 1
239 Claude Butler * f7C *** 1
240 Jerryatricks 2.0 * f7C+ *** 3
241 Wack and Ruin * f7C 1
242 The Broken Brolly Link * f7C+ *** 1
  Tower of Babel
244 Babylon Bypass
-
HVS 4b 4
245 Glory Road VS 4b * 193
246 Sin VS 4c ** 295
247 Lucy Simmons E2 5b * 91
248 The Tower of Babel
-
E1 5b 35
249 Revulva HVS 5b 2
  Windy Buttress
251 Chantrelle E1 5a 12
252 Black Teddy
-
E2 5c 6
253 Inquisitor E2 5c * 128
254 Tuba Mirum
-
E5 6b * 2
255 Dies Irae E2 5c *** 235
256 Stuff the Turkey E4 6b 4
257 Circe E5 6b ** 46
258 Gaspera E5 6b * 2
259 Swine Vesicular E6 6b  
260 Kink E5 6b ** 13
261 Kinky 7c 1
262 Kellogg E5 6b * 20
263 Nice in Nice E5 6b * 2
264 Kingdom Come E5 6b * 15
265 Special K E4 6a * 16
266 The Flakes Direct E2 5c *** 108
267 The Flakes E2 5c ** 70
268 Armageddon E2 5c *** 213
269 Windhover E2 5c ** 281
270 Transmaiacon
-
E5 6a 2
271 Choss
-
HVS 5b 23
272 Scoop Wall E2 5c *** 446
273 Our Father E4 6b *** 124
274 Menopause E5 6b ** 12
275 Memnon E2 5c * 49
276 Memnon Variation
-
E3 5c 13
Climb name Grade
277 Racial Harmony
-
E4 5c * 1
278 Aurora VS 4c ** 332
279 Hysterectomy E5 6c  
280 Adios Tango E4 6a * 2
281 Aurora ArĂȘte HVS 5a ** 68
282 Aurora Arete/Tiger Trot HVS 5a ** 125
283 Tiger Trot VD * 44
284 Alcasan E2 5c *** 142
285 Immortal Combat 6b+ 2
  Garage Buttress
287 Fluffy Roo Meets the Woodentops
-
6b+ 1
288 Ticket to the Underworld
-
E4 4a,5c 2
289 Compositae Groove HVS 5a * 60
290 Trigger 7a+ 3
291 Two Ton Ted from Teddington 6b+ 5
292 Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door 6c 8
293 Bohemian 6b+ * 24
294 Empty Cartridge 6b+ * 27
295 Unloaded 6c 16
296 Reloaded 6b+ * 39
297 I Hate You 7a+ * 41
298 Matricide E4 6a 13
299 Matrix E3 5b 3
300 Four Minute Tiler E5 6b * 8
301 Alex It was Nothing Really E5 6b 1
302 La Belle et la Bete E6 6b * 5
303 Colonel Bogey E4 6a ** 31
304 Helicon E3 5c ** 71
305 Rippemoff E1 5c * 84
306 Pullemdown E5 6a *  
307 Chewemoff E4 6a * 10
308 Gerremdown E3 4c,5b ** 6
309 Turf 'em Off 6b+ 15
310 Glue 'em Back 7b 4
311 There Maybe Rubble Ahead 7b 1
312 Rubble Rouser 7c 1
313 Golden Delicious 8a *  
314 Dig Deeper 8a * 4
315 Dig Deep For Victory 7c 10
316 Ozone Bozo 7c * 38
317 Tollbar 8a+ 6
318 Double the Rubble 7c * 3
319 Trouble with Rubble 7c+ * 8
320 The Big Apple 8a * 25
321 The Lover's Leap 7b+ * 2
322 Easy Skanking E6 6b  
323 Little Plum (pitch 1) 7c+ ** 24
324 Little Plum 8a *** 17
325 Big Nose E4 6a 2
326 Ming the Merciless 8a+ * 1
327 The King of Ming (Redundant) 7b+ ** 60
328 Virgin King 7b+ ** 80
329 Virgin on the Loose E6 6b  
330 Smoothlands 6a 63
331 Lowerlands 5c 45
332 Flycatcher E5 6a 2
333 Lowlands 6c+ * 94
334 Dreamcatcher 6b+ * 194
335 Creamsnatcher 6b * 177
336 Gulp and Go 6b+ * 44
337 Evasor VS 4c ** 133
338 Can't Stop Now 6c 44
339 Redeployed 6c+ * 16
340 Up Yours 7a * 17
341 Four Thousand 6b+ * 137
342 Two Thousand 6a+ 81
343 Onwards and Upwards 6a 139
344 Nowt about Change 6b 81
345 End, Stop, Finale 6b 47
346 The Last Stop 5b 43
347 Atropos HVS 5a * 6
348 Aquiline HVS 5b * 16
349 Pendulum HVS 5a ** 76
350 My Girdle is Killing Me
-
E4 6a, 5b 2
  Other Bouldering
352 Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right) V1 5c 17
353 Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V2 6a 20
354 Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V4 6b * 11
355 Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6B 11
356 Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6A 8
357 Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6C+ 6
358 Odd Thing f7B 9
359 Arete left hand f6A * 5
360 Arete right hand f6C+ * 1
361 Problem 6 f7A 21
362 Problem 13 (Left hand Side) f7A 7
363 Triangular Pockets f6B+ ** 11
  unknown/not in guide/Incorrect, entries
365 RF, Problem 5 f7A ** 1
366 Figure of 24
-
f7C 1
367 Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right) f6C 5
368 Problem 7 f7A+ 9
369 Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6) f7A 9
370 Problem 8 f7A+ 4
371 Pdb problem 1 central f7B+ * 1
372 Triangle Undercling f6C * 1
373 Diamond Pinch f7C 6
374 Blockhead's Arete f7A+ 8
375 Crimp Shrimp f6B ** 6
376 UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left. f7A 4
377 Left (UKB online topo) f6C 1
378 Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten left f6B+ 4
379 Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1 f7C 1
380 Jimmyatricks f7C+ 1
381 Sign My Name E2 5c 10
382 The Brighton Line E1 5b,5b * 5
383 Tony's Bloody Finger E1 5b,5b 2
384 Monosod E2 5c *  
385 Lesley Ann E3 6a 1
386 Canine of Brine E2 5b 1
387 Master of Tides VS 4b 2
388 End of the Line E1 5b 1
389 Tower of Babel indirect E1 5b  
390 The Power Pinch f7C+ 1
391 The Gherkin f7A *** 2
392 Not Zippy's Variant 3 f6C * 1
393 Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6) f6B+ 6
394 Tiger Direct VS 4c 1
395 Tiger Traverse HVS 5a  
396 Tiger Groove HS 4a  
397 Has She Been? S 4a 1
398 Mompesson Rich Pickings MVS 4c  
399 Holly HVS 5c  
400 Willow HVS 5c  
401 Problem 12 f6B 1
402 Haven't Got a Cluedo E2 5c * 2
403 Moss Side * E2 5b 1
404 Choss Side * HVS 4c 1
405 Harris Problem 3 *
-
f7B+ 1
406 Blockheads Arete non eliminate * V0+ 5a 1
407 Power Allowance Check * f7B 5
408 Phil 's phigure of 8 (minus ten) * f6C 2
409 Phil 's phigure of 16 (minus ten) * f6C+ 1
410 Phil 's phigure of 24 (minus ten) * f6C+  
411 The Full Reverse * f7A * 2
412 Higherlands
-
6a 1
413 Jambon's Undercut * f7B+ 1
414 Figure of minus 16 * f7C *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian