Climbs 389
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

Mark on the short sharp crux of Little Plumb (pitch one) © Wood for Trees

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Electric quarry 
2Roraima
-
HVS 5b 3
3The Disillusioned Brew Machine
-
E3 5c 2
4Holy SchmittE3 5c 1
5Helmut SchmittE6 6b **5
6Cabbage CrackE4 6a **104
7JasperE3 6a **93
8The Heat
-
E5 6a 1
9OliverE4 6a ***65
10Millionaire TouchE4 6b ***35
11X CalibreE6 6b  
12IcarusE1 5b 2
13Brown CornerHVS 5a *47
14One 'ard Move
-
E6 6b 1
15DamoclesE3 5b *15
16Golden BoyE5 6b *1
17Emotional RescueE5 6b *8
18John PeelE2 5b *43
19Creeping FleshE4 6a  
 The Slurper 
21AcrophobiaHVS 5a *26
22J ArthurE1 5b 5
23Easy ActionE1 5b **45
24The SlurperE1 5c *38
25Gollyberry
-
E2 5c 9
26Lard Wall
-
E5 6a 1
27Psychopath
-
E1 5b 3
28Daedalus
-
E4 6a 1
29Vicky
-
E1 5b  
 Triglyph/Mortuary buttress 
31Drainpipe GrooveVS 4c 15
32Speed KillsE4 6a *5
33The MorgueE3 5c *16
34Mortuary StepsHVS 5b **116
35Hart AttackE5 6b  
36Cardiac ArrestE4 6a *7
37Beta BlockerE5 6b  
38Little CapucinHVS 5a *43
39How the HellVS 4c *53
40What the HellVS 4b *98
41Hell Hath No FuryE2 5b  
42Morning CrackS 4a *55
43Hellish morningVS 4b ** 
 Ivy Buttress 
45NazeVD 8
46Child's AreteHVS 5a 5
47Emanon
-
HS 6
 Prayer Wheel Wall 
49OmletteE3 6a 7
50OmE1 5b *213
51Shit WallE2 5b 48
52ManiE1 5b *326
53PadmeHVS 5a **495
 Pearly Gates Buttress 
55looking Through Gary Gibson's EyesHVS 5a 11
56AsparagusVS 4b *220
57RobinE2 5b 12
58Cock-a-leekie WallE2 5c 133
59Vinegar FlyHVS 5a 4
60MinestroneHVS 4c *61
61Rosehip WineHS 4a *90
62Jungle Arete
-
VD 7
63PollyannaE1 5b 15
64JuggernautVS 5a 10
65HorizonS 4a 22
66Lost HorizonS 4a 41
67Aux BicyclettesVD 39
68Fingal's FlueHS 3c 37
69Fingal's CaveHVS 5a 9
70The GroperVS 4c,4b 6
71The White KnightVD 59
72Ben
-
E2 5c 4
73Gabriel and the Pearly GatesVS 4c ***552
74SolitaireE1 5b *85
75St. PeterE1 5c *281
76St. PaulE3 5c 14
77ParachuteVS 4b *236
78Roman CandleVS 4c 7
79Au GratinHS 4a 53
80Didgery DoodahE1 5a  
 George's Wall 
82George's Wall Eliminate 1f6A  
83George's Wall Eliminate 2f6C 6
84George's Wall Dynof7B 4
85Quent's Legendary Dynof7C *3
86The Groovef6A+ 7
 Minus Ten Wall 
88Cracked Wallf3+ 41
89Flat Wallf4+ 41
90Triangle Link-upf5+ *33
91Minus WallE1 5b 16
92Minus Wall Startf4+ *40
93Minus Wall Rightf6B+ *38
94Minus Wall Traversef6B+ *3
95Minus TenHVS 5a *291
96Great EscapeE1 5b 4
97Jam SandwichE5 6b 10
98Traffic JamE5 6b **88
99Double ScotchE2 5b *296
100CointreauHVS 5a *123
101The Flashing Fisher
-
E3 5c 13
102Pygmies Walk TallE1 5b *29
103ThrutchHVS 5a 26
104Flat LightE2 5c 1
105Quent's Dynof7B **70
106Not Ned's Problemf7B+ *32
107Harris Problemf7B+ *3
108White Ladderf7B+ **19
109White Ladder (sit start)f7C 8
110The JABPf7C **7
111Sharp Pocketf7B+ ***1
112Little Warm-upf5 24
113Egyptian Feetf7A+ ***76
114Egyptian Variationf7A+ *9
115Easy dynof6A *33
116One Arm Banditf7B *51
117Kirton Dynof7A+ *83
118Sean's Problemf7B+ **21
119Sean's Problem Variantf7C 2
120Zippy's Sidepullf7B+ **35
121Guidebook Elevenf6C+ *121
122Slopey Sidepullf7A+ *24
123Gav's Problemf7B *3
124Harris Problem 1f7B ***1
125Lucian's Undercutf7A **78
126Zippy's Problemf7B+ **20
127Zippy's Problem variant 1f7B+ *8
128Zippy's Problem variant 2f7C **10
129Pinch 2f8A+ ***2
130Jason's Variantf8A ** 
131Nasty Traverse
-
f7C+ *5
132The Double Doublef6C *113
133Young Americanf7A+ **92
134Prefab Brick Cakef5 *13
135Face Offf6B 20
136Coffee Highf6B *10
137Facadef6C 12
138Megatronf7A+ *29
139Megatron Turbof7A+ 3
140High Breakf5 *37
141Middle Breakf6B *137
142No Breakf6C+ **33
143Slopey Sidepull Variantf7B *5
144Zeno's Sidepullf7C 4
 Carl's Walk 
146Tiger CrackE2 6a *2
147CostaBravaHVS 5b 5
148Carl's Wark Traversef7B *** 
149Little Crack
-
VS 5a 14
150SqueekE5 6a  
151More Air than Chocolatef6A *7
152Flake and PillarE1 5b 35
153Au Revoir Monodoigtf7B ** 
154Bubbles Startf6A+ **16
155Bubbles WallE4 6b **108
156Bubbles OriginalE3 5c *22
157Black KabulE5 6b *10
158Carls Wark CrackE2 5c **189
159ScarabE6 6b **7
160All Systems GoE6 6c  
161Green CrackVS 4c *86
162SoapsudsE3 6a *38
163Shaky Crack
-
VD 9
164Soapsuds Leftf5 3
165soapsuds Crackf4+ 3
166Soapsuds Rightf6A 1
167Soapsuds Traversef6B+ *17
 Medusa Bay 
169Hammer
-
VS 4b 1
170Whet
-
E2 5b 1
171SickleE1 5a *32
172Boat Pushers WallE3 5c *33
173Big BorisE5 6a 2
174Wee DorisE4 5c ***227
175MedusaE1 5b **213
176Gesemini originalE1 5b 14
177Gesemini DirectE3 5c *36
178PickpocketE4 6a **87
179The Artful DodgerE5 6b 1
 Bitterfingers Bay 
181Frisco BayVS 4c *51
182Bay of Pigs
-
E1 5b 5
183Golden GateHVS 5a **130
184HingesE1 5b, 5a 4
185Bingo WallE2 5b **151
186Kelly's EyeE4 6a *45
187The year of living Dangerously
-
E4 5c 1
188Mind BlindE6 6b 2
189The Rainbow Woman
-
E3 6a 1
190WallopHS 4b *27
191Flavour of the Month
-
E6 6b *1
192My Personal Pleasure
-
E6 6c 1
193BelindaE4 6a *1
194FrothVS 4c **413
195Mottled Wall
-
E4 5c 5
196Mingtled/Mottled WallE4 5c *11
197Dead Banana CrackE1 5c ***451
198Top Banana
-
E3 6a 3
199BitterfingersE4 6a ***178
200The Great LevellerE6 6b  
201OkraE4 6a *4
202Fe Fi Fo FumHVS 5a *260
203BeanstalkE3 5c 5
204AugeanVS 4c *60
205HerculesE4 5c 3
206SisypheanE4 6a *2
207ivy Grotto DirectHVS 5a 3
208Anything CornerVS 4b 7
209MineshaftM *30
210Shellfish Shuffle
-
S 3
211TantalusHS 4b 9
 Tom's Roof 
213Tom's Originalf7A *210
214Tom's Original Reverse *f7A 32
215Tom's Original There and Back *f7A+ **21
216The Womb into Tom's Original *f7A **12
217The Wombf6C *25
218Punker Bunkerf7A+ **68
219Armbanditf7A+ **5
220Power Allowancef7B **50
221Swing Thingf7C *31
222One Summer Problemf7C * 
223Quintesscencef8A ** 
224Pete's Power Pullf7C **7
225Power trip *f7C 5
226You've Pulled *f8A 3
227Rack and Ruinf7C 3
228Side Wall Traversef7C  
229Harris Problem 2f7B+ * 
230Jerryatricksf7C+ *3
231Jerry's Problemf7C+ 1
232PDB problem 12f7C 1
233Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB)f7C 2
234Figure of 8f7B+ *25
235Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) *f7C 6
236Figure of 16 *f7C 7
 Tower of Babel 
238Babylon Bypass
-
HVS 4b 4
239Glory RoadVS 4b *182
240SinVS 4c **260
241Lucy SimmonsE2 5b *85
242The Tower of Babel
-
E1 5b 32
243RevulvaHVS 5b 2
 Windy Buttress 
245ChantrelleE1 5a 10
246Black Teddy
-
E2 5c 4
247InquisitorE2 5c *116
248Tuba Mirum
-
E5 6b *2
249Dies IraeE2 5c ***217
250Stuff the TurkeyE4 6b 3
251CirceE5 6b **46
252GasperaE5 6b *2
253Swine VesicularE6 6b  
254KinkE5 6b **13
255Kinky7c 1
256KelloggE5 6b *20
257Nice in NiceE5 6b *2
258Kingdom ComeE5 6b *15
259Special KE4 6a *13
260The Flakes DirectE2 5c ***106
261The FlakesE2 5c **74
262ArmageddonE2 5c ***209
263WindhoverE2 5c **263
264Transmaiacon
-
E5 6a 2
265Choss
-
HVS 5b 20
266Scoop WallE2 5c ***410
267Our FatherE4 6b ***116
268MenopauseE5 6b **11
269MemnonE2 5c *47
270Memnon Variation
-
E3 5c 13
271Racial Harmony
-
E4 5c *1
272AuroraVS 4c **295
273HysterectomyE5 6c  
274Adios Tango
-
E4 6a **2
275Aurora ArÍteHVS 5a **54
276Aurora Arete/Tiger TrotHVS 5a **120
277Tiger TrotVD *37
278AlcasanE2 5c ***157
279Immortal Combat6b+ 2
 Garage Buttress 
281Fluffy Roo Meets the Woodentops
-
6b+ 1
282Ticket to the Underworld
-
E4 4a,5c 1
283Compositae GrooveHVS 5a *56
284Trigger7a+ 3
285Two Ton Ted from Teddington6b+ 5
286Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door6c 6
287Bohemian6b+ *18
288Empty Cartridge6b+ *23
289Unloaded6c 15
290Reloaded6b+ *33
291I Hate You7a+ *36
292MatricideE4 6a 13
293MatrixE3 5b 2
294Four Minute TilerE5 6b *5
295Alex It was Nothing ReallyE5 6b 1
296La Belle et la BeteE6 6b *4
297Colonel BogeyE4 6a **29
298HeliconE3 5c **68
299RippemoffE1 5c *81
300PullemdownE5 6a * 
301ChewemoffE4 6a *9
302GerremdownE3 4c,5b **5
303Turf 'em Off6b+ 10
304Glue 'em Back7b 4
305There Maybe Rubble Ahead7b 1
306Rubble Rouser7c 1
307Golden Delicious8a * 
308Dig Deeper8a *5
309Dig Deep For Victory7c 12
310Ozone Bozo7c *36
311Tollbar8a+ 8
312Double the Rubble7c *3
313Trouble with Rubble7c+ *8
314The Big Apple8a *27
315The Lover's Leap7b+ *2
316Easy SkankingE6 6b  
317Little Plum (pitch 1)7c+ **24
318Little Plum8a ***46
319Big NoseE4 6a 2
320Ming the Merciless8a+ *3
321The King of Ming (Redundant)7b+ **62
322Virgin King7b+ 2 **69
323Virgin on the LooseE6 6b  
324Smoothlands6a 44
325Lowerlands5c 33
326FlycatcherE5 6a 1
327Lowlands6c+ *80
328Dreamcatcher6b+ *153
329Creamsnatcher6b *149
330Gulp and Go6b+ *35
331EvasorVS 4c **126
332Can't Stop Now6c 32
333Redeployed6c+ *11
334Up Yours7a *14
335Four Thousand6b+ *104
336Two Thousand6a+ 55
337Onwards and Upwards6a 94
338Nowt about Change6b 66
339End, Stop, Finale6b 39
340The Last Stop5b 28
341AtroposHVS 5a *5
342AquilineHVS 5b *16
343PendulumHVS 5a **68
344My Girdle is Killing Me
-
E4 6a, 5b 1
 Other Bouldering 
346Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right)V1 17
347Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V2 20
348Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V4 *11
349Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6B 11
350Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6A 8
351Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6C+ 6
352Odd Thingf7B 9
353Arete left handf6A *5
354Arete right handf6C+ *1
355Problem 6f7A 20
356Problem 13 (Left hand Side)f7A 6
357Triangular Pocketsf6B+ **11
 unknown/not in guide/Incorrect, entries 
359RF, Problem 5f7A **1
360Figure of 24
-
f7C 1
361Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right)f6C 5
362Problem 7f7A+ 8
363Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6)f7A 7
364Problem 8f7A+ 3
365Pdb problem 1 centralf7B+ *1
366Triangle Underclingf6C *1
367Diamond Pinchf7C 5
368Blockhead's Aretef7A+ 6
369Crimp Shrimpf6B **6
370UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left.f7A 3
371Left (UKB online topo)f6C 1
372Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten leftf6B+ 4
373Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1f7C 1
374Jimmyatricksf7C+ 1
375Sign My NameE2 5c 8
376The Brighton LineE1 5b,5b *2
377Tony's Bloody FingerE1 5b,5b 2
378MonosodE2 5c * 
379Lesley AnnE3 6a 1
380Canine of BrineE2 5b 1
381Master of TidesVS 4b 2
382End of the LineE1 5b 1
383Tower of Babel indirectE1 5b  
384The Power Pinchf7C+ 1
385The Gherkinf7A ***3
386Not Zippy's Variant 3f6C *1
387Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6)f6B+ 6
388Tiger DirectVS 4c 1
389Tiger TraverseHVS 5a  
390Tiger GrooveHS 4a  
391Has She Been?S 4a 1
392Mompesson Rich PickingsMVS 4c  
393HollyHVS 5c  
394WillowHVS 5c  
395Problem 12f6B 1
396Haven't Got a CluedoE2 5c *2
397Moss Side *E2 5b 1
398Choss Side *HVS 4c 1
399Harris Problem 3 *
-
f7B+ 1
400Blockheads Arete non eliminate *V0+ 1
401Power Allowance Check *f7B 4
402Phil 's phigure of 8 (minus ten) *f6C 2
403Phil 's phigure of 16 (minus ten) *f6C+ 1
404Phil 's phigure of 24 (minus ten) *f6C+  
405The Full Reverse *f7A *1
406Higherlands
-
6a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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