Climbs 420
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

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Mark on the short sharp crux of Little Plumb (pitch one) © Wft

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Electric quarry
2 Roraima
-
HVS 5b 3
3 Holy Schmitt E3 5c 2
4 Helmut Schmitt E6 6b ** 14
5 Cabbage Crack E4 6a ** 134
6 Jasper E3 6a ** 116
7 The Heat
-
E5 6a 4
8 Oliver E4 6a *** 78
9 Millionaire Touch E4 6b *** 60
10 X Calibre E6 6b 1
11 Brown Corner HVS 5a * 60
12 One 'ard Move
-
E6 6b 1
13 Damocles E3 5b * 18
14 Golden Boy E5 6b * 2
15 Emotional Rescue E5 6b * 11
16 John Peel E2 5b * 54
17 Creeping Flesh E4 6a 1
18 Icarus E1 5b 4
19 Vicky
-
E1 5b  
  The Slurper
21 Daedalus
-
E4 6a 1
22 Psychopath
-
E1 5b 4
23 Lard Wall
-
E5 6a 1
24 Gollyberry
-
E2 5c 11
25 Acrophobia HVS 5a * 44
26 J Arthur E1 5b 5
27 Easy Action E1 5b ** 62
28 The Slurper E1 5c * 53
29 The Disillusioned Brew Machine
-
E3 5c 4
30 Get Six into the Mix * E3 5c * 2
  Mortuary Buttress
32 Drainpipe Groove VS 4c 15
33 Speed Kills E4 6a * 8
34 The Morgue E3 5c * 18
35 Mortuary Steps HVS 5b ** 141
36 Cardiac Arrest E4 6a * 9
37 Hart Attack E5 6b 1
38 Beta Blocker E5 6b  
39 Little Capucin HVS 5a * 52
  The Triglyph
41 Who the Hell
-
E1 5c  
42 To Hell and Back E3 5b  
43 How the Hell VS 4c * 72
44 What the Hell VS 4b * 127
45 Hell Hath No Fury E2 5b  
46 Morning Crack S 4a * 69
  Ivy Buttress
48 Naze VD 8
49 Child's Arete HVS 5a 5
50 Emanon
-
HS 8
  Prayer Wheel Wall
52 Omlette E3 6a 9
53 Om E1 5b * 261
54 Shit Wall E2 5b 58
55 Nowt Said
-
E2 5c  
56 Mani E1 5b * 383
57 Blinkers E2 5c * 9
58 Padme HVS 5a ** 638
59 Sign My Name E2 5c 12
60 Asparagus VS 4b * 310
61 Looking Through Gary Gibson's Eyes HVS 5a 21
62 Robin E2 5b 16
63 Cock-a-leekie Wall E2 5c 152
64 Vinegar Fly HVS 5a 6
65 Minestrone HVS 4c * 73
66 Rosehip Wine HS 4a * 147
  Pearly Gates Buttress
68 Jungle Arete
-
VD 7
69 Pollyanna E1 5b 16
70 Lesley Ann E3 6a 1
71 Horizon S 4a 33
72 Canine of Brine E2 5b 1
73 Juggernaut VS 5a 13
74 Scanner E1 5b  
75 Master of Tides VS 4b 2
76 Lost Horizon S 4a 59
77 Aux Bicyclettes VD 56
78 The Crux
-
HVS 5c  
79 Fingal's Flue HS 3c 30
80 Fingal's Cave HVS 5a 17
81 The Groper VS 4c 6
82 No Statesman E3 6b  
83 Scurvy Knave
-
HVS 5b 1
84 The White Knight VD 65
85 Ben
-
E2 5c 4
86 Gabriel and the Pearly Gates VS 4c *** 717
87 Solitaire E1 5b * 105
88 Haven't Got a Cluedo E2 5c * 3
89 St. Peter E1 5c * 313
90 St. Paul E3 5c 15
91 Parachute VS 4b * 276
92 Parr Kor E5 6a  
93 Roman Candle VS 4c 13
94 Au Gratin HS 4a 63
95 Honeysuckle Lane E1 5b  
96 Moss Side E2 5b 1
97 Didgery Doodah E1 5a  
  George's Wall
99 George's Wall Eliminate 1 f6A  
100 George's Wall Eliminate 2 f6C 6
101 George's Wall Dyno f7B 6
102 Quent's Legendary Dyno f7C * 4
103 The Groove f6A+ 7
  Minus Ten Wall
105 Cracked Wall f3+ 64
106 Flat Wall f4+ 67
107 Triangle Link-up f5+ * 46
108 Minus Wall E1 5b 19
109 Minus Wall Start f4+ * 72
110 Minus Wall Right f6B+ * 68
111 Minus Wall Traverse f6B+ * 40
112 Minus Ten HVS 5a * 343
113 Great Escape E1 5b 5
114 Jam Sandwich E5 6b 13
115 Traffic Jam E5 6b ** 110
116 Double Scotch E2 5b * 371
117 Cointreau HVS 5a * 171
118 The Flashing Fisher E3 5c 19
119 Pygmies Walk Tall E1 5b * 38
120 Thrutch HVS 5a 32
121 Flat Light E2 5c 1
122 Quent's Dyno f7B ** 83
123 Not Ned's Problem f7B+ * 33
124 Harris Problem f7B+ * 4
125 White Ladder f7B+ ** 17
126 White Ladder (sit start) f7C 10
127 The JABP f7C ** 3
128 Sharp Pocket f7B+ *** 1
129 Little Warm-up f5 41
130 Egyptian Feet f7A+ *** 97
131 Egyptian Variation f7A+ * 17
132 Easy dyno f6A * 48
133 One Arm Bandit f7B * 56
134 Kirton Dyno f7A+ * 97
135 Sean's Problem f7B+ ** 25
136 Sean's Problem Variant f7C 2
137 Zippy's Sidepull f7B+ ** 36
138 Guidebook Eleven f6C+ * 153
139 Slopey Sidepull f7A+ * 31
140 Gav's Problem f7B * 4
141 Harris Problem 1 f7B *** 1
142 Lucian's Undercut f7A ** 92
143 Zippy's Problem f7B+ ** 24
144 Zippy's Problem variant 1 f7B+ * 11
145 Zippy's Problem variant 2 f7C ** 8
146 Pinch 2 f8A+ *** 2
147 Jason's Variant f8A **  
Climb name Grade
148 Nasty Traverse
-
f7C+ * 5
149 The Double Double f6C * 142
150 Young American f7A+ ** 104
151 Prefab Brick Cake f5 * 32
152 Face Off f6B 48
153 Coffee High f6B * 25
154 Facade f6C 27
155 Megatron f7A+ * 37
156 Megatron Turbo f7A+ 3
157 High Break f5 * 42
158 Middle Break f6B * 166
159 No Break f6C+ ** 38
160 Slopey Sidepull Variant f7B * 12
161 Zeno's Sidepull f7C 5
162 Coffee Mate * V4+ 2
163 Zippy's Problem Variant 4 * V9 1
164 Minus 10 pence * f6C+ 1
165 The Double Trouble * f6B 2
  Carl's Walk
167 Tiger Crack E2 6a * 2
168 CostaBrava HVS 5b 6
169 Carl's Wark Traverse f7B ***  
170 Little Crack
-
VS 5a 15
171 Squeek E5 6a  
172 More Air than Chocolate f6A * 12
173 Flake and Pillar E1 5b 43
174 Au Revoir Monodoigt f7B ** 1
175 Bubbles Start f6A+ ** 19
176 Bubbles Wall E4 6b ** 121
177 Bubbles Original E3 5c * 35
178 Black Kabul E5 6b * 15
179 Carls Wark Crack E2 5c ** 210
180 Scarab E6 6b ** 15
181 All Systems Go E6 6c 1
182 Green Crack VS 4c * 101
183 Soapsuds E3 6a * 48
184 Shaky Crack
-
VD 9
185 Soapsuds Left f5 6
186 soapsuds Crack f4+ 8
187 Soapsuds Right f6A 2
188 Soapsuds Traverse f6B+ * 21
  Medusa Bay
190 Hammer
-
VS 4b 1
191 Whet
-
E2 5b 1
192 Sickle E1 5a * 37
193 Boat Pushers Wall E3 5c * 39
194 Big Boris E5 6a 4
195 Wee Doris E4 5c *** 268
196 Medusa E1 5b ** 253
197 Gesemini original E1 5b 16
198 Gesemini Direct E3 5c * 45
199 Pickpocket E4 6a ** 96
200 Balthazaaaaah E5 6a * 4
201 The Artful Dodger E5 6b 2
  Bitterfingers Bay
203 Frisco Bay VS 4c * 67
204 Bay of Pigs
-
E1 5b 5
205 Golden Gate HVS 5a ** 152
206 Hinges E1 5b, 5a 7
207 Bingo Wall E2 5b ** 190
208 Kelly's Eye E4 6a * 49
209 The Brighton Line E1 5b,5b * 9
210 The year of living Dangerously
-
E4 5c 1
211 Mind Blind E6 6b 2
212 The Rainbow Woman
-
E3 6a 2
213 Wallop HS 4b * 31
214 Flavour of the Month
-
E6 6b * 2
215 My Personal Pleasure
-
E6 6c 2
216 Thumb E4 6a 2
217 Belinda E4 6a * 2
218 Froth VS 4c ** 482
219 Mottled Wall
-
E4 5c 8
220 Mingtled/Mottled Wall E4 5c * 12
221 Dead Banana Crack E1 5c *** 549
222 Top Banana
-
E3 6a 8
223 Bitterfingers E4 6a *** 220
224 The Great Leveller E6 6b 2
225 Okra E4 6a * 8
226 Fe Fi Fo Fum HVS 5a * 307
227 Saag Line E4 6b  
228 Beanstalk E3 5c 7
229 Augean VS 4c * 81
230 Hercules E4 5c 3
231 Sisyphean E4 6a * 2
232 Ivy Grotto Direct HVS 5a 3
233 Slab and Arete
-
HVS 5a  
234 Anything Corner VS 4b 12
235 Mineshaft M * 42
236 Shellfish Shuffle
-
S 5
237 Tantalus HS 4b 10
  Tom's Roof
239 The Womb f6C * 35
240 Tom's Original f7A * 265
241 Tom's Original Reverse f7A 53
242 The Full Reverse f7A * 7
243 Punker Bunker f7A+ ** 88
244 Power Allowance f7B ** 65
245 Power Allowance Check f7B+ * 10
246 Triple Drop f7C 1
247 Swing Thing f7C * 43
248 Harris Problem 2 f7B+ * 1
249 Figure of 8 f7B+ * 35
250 Figure of 16 f7C * 10
251 Figure of 24 f7C 1
252 Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) f7C ** 15
253 Figure of minus 16 f7C ** 2
254 Rack and Ruin f7C 10
255 Armbandit f7A+ ** 8
256 PDB problem 12 f7C 1
257 Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB) f7C 2
258 One Summer Problem f7C * 3
259 Pete's Power Pull f7C ** 8
260 Power trip f7C 7
261 Side Wall Traverse f7C  
262 Diamond Pinch f7C ** 6
263 The Power Pinch f7C+ 2
264 Quintesscence f8A **  
  Tom's Roof link-ups
266 The Womb into Tom's Original f7A ** 22
267 Tom's Original There and Back f7A+ * 37
268 The Womb into Power Allowance f7B * 4
269 Jerryatricks f7C+ * 12
270 Jerryatricks 2.0 f7C+ *** 5
271 Jerry's Problem f7C+ 2
272 Jimmyatricks f7C+ 1
273 Figure of 0 f7C 2
274 Claude Butler f7C+ 1
275 Wack and Ruin f7C ** 4
276 The Broken Brolly Link f7C+ * 2
277 You've Pulled f8A 5
278 Abu Ali's Hand Gun f8A * 1
279 Jerry-Wack-Tricks f7C+ * 1
  Tower of Babel
281 Babylon Bypass
-
HVS 4b 4
282 Glory Road VS 4b * 227
283 Sin VS 4c ** 333
284 Lucy Simmons E2 5b * 98
285 The Tower of Babel
-
E1 5b 38
286 Revulva HVS 5b 2
  Windy Buttress
288 Chantrelle E1 5a 13
289 Black Teddy
-
E2 5c 8
290 Inquisitor E2 5c * 151
291 Tuba Mirum
-
E5 6b * 2
292 Dies Irae E2 5c *** 277
293 Stuff the Turkey E4 6b 5
294 Circe E5 6b ** 67
Climb name Grade
295 Gaspera E5 6b * 2
296 Swine Vesicular E6 6b  
297 Kink E5 6b ** 18
298 Kinky 7c 1
299 Kellogg E5 6b * 23
300 Nice in Nice E5 6b * 2
301 Kingdom Come E5 6b * 18
302 Special K E4 6a * 18
303 The Flakes Direct E2 5c *** 128
304 The Flakes E2 5c ** 82
305 Armageddon E2 5c *** 256
306 Windhover E2 5c ** 304
307 Transmaiacon
-
E5 6a 2
308 Choss
-
HVS 5b 27
309 Scoop Wall E2 5c *** 456
310 Our Father E4 6b *** 131
311 Menopause E5 6b ** 15
312 Memnon E2 5c * 56
313 Memnon Variation
-
E3 5c 13
314 Racial Harmony E4 5c * 2
315 Aurora VS 4c ** 374
316 Hysterectomy E5 6c  
317 Adios Tango E4 6a * 2
318 Aurora ArĂȘte HVS 5a ** 101
319 Aurora Arete/Tiger Trot HVS 5a ** 130
320 Tiger Trot VD * 50
321 Alcasan E2 5c *** 175
322 Immortal Combat 6b+ 2
  Garage Buttress
324 Fluffy Roo Meets the Woodentops
-
6b+ 1
325 Ticket to the Underworld E4 4a,5c 1
326 Compositae Groove HVS 5a * 64
327 Trigger 7a+ 4
328 Two Ton Ted from Teddington 6b+ 6
329 Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door 6c 11
330 Bohemian 6b+ * 27
331 Empty Cartridge 6b+ * 29
332 Unloaded 6c 18
333 Reloaded 6b+ * 42
334 Matricide E4 6a 14
335 Matrix E3 5b 2
336 I Hate You 7a+ * 45
337 Four Minute Tiler E5 6b * 7
338 Alex It was Nothing Really E5 6b 1
339 La Belle et la Bete E6 6b * 5
340 Colonel Bogey E4 6a ** 37
341 Helicon E3 5c ** 79
342 Rippemoff E1 5c * 93
343 Pullemdown E5 6a *  
344 Chewemoff E4 6a * 11
345 Gerremdown E3 4c,5b ** 7
346 Turf 'em Off 6b+ 17
347 Glue 'em Back 7b 4
348 There Maybe Rubble Ahead 7b 1
349 Rubble Rouser 7c 1
350 Dig Deeper 8a * 4
351 Dig Deep For Victory 7c 13
352 Ozone Bozo 7c * 59
353 Tollbar 8a+ 6
354 Double the Rubble 7c * 5
355 Trouble with Rubble 7c+ * 8
356 The Big Apple 8a * 33
357 Golden Delicious 8a *  
358 The Lover's Leap 7b+ * 2
359 Easy Skanking E6 6b  
360 Little Plum (pitch 1) 7c+ ** 30
361 Little Plum 8a *** 29
362 Big Nose E4 6a 2
363 Ming the Merciless 8a+ * 1
364 The King of Ming (Redundant) 7b+ ** 63
365 Virgin King 7b+ ** 123
366 Virgin on the Loose E6 6b  
367 Smoothlands 6a 98
368 Lowerlands 5c 62
369 Flycatcher E5 6a 2
370 Lowlands 6c+ * 119
371 Dreamcatcher 6b+ * 245
372 Creamsnatcher 6b * 206
373 Gulp and Go 6b+ * 66
374 Evasor VS 4c ** 147
375 Can't Stop Now 6c 51
376 Redeployed 6c+ * 21
377 Up Yours 7a * 24
378 Four Thousand 6b+ * 175
379 Two Thousand 6a+ 101
380 Onwards and Upwards 6a 165
381 Nowt about Change 6b 101
382 Just End It! 6a+ * 24
383 End, Stop, Finale 6b 55
384 The Last Stop 5b 63
385 Atropos HVS 5a * 6
386 Aquiline HVS 5b * 17
387 Pendulum HVS 5a ** 93
388 My Girdle is Killing Me
-
E4 6a, 5b 2
  Other Bouldering
390 Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right) V1 5c 17
391 Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V2 6a 20
392 Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V4 6b * 11
393 Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6B 11
394 Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6A 8
395 Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6C+ 6
396 Odd Thing f7B 10
397 Arete left hand f6A * 5
398 Arete right hand f6C+ * 1
399 Problem 6 f7A 21
400 Problem 13 (Left hand Side) f7A 7
401 Triangular Pockets f6B+ ** 11
  unknown/not in guide/Incorrect, entries
403 RF, Problem 5 f7A ** 1
404 Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right) f6C 5
405 Problem 7 f7A+ 9
406 Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6) f7A 9
407 Problem 8 f7A+ 4
408 Pdb problem 1 central f7B+ * 1
409 Triangle Undercling f6C * 1
410 Blockhead's Arete f7A+ 11
411 Crimp Shrimp f6B ** 7
412 UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left. f7A 4
413 Left (UKB online topo) f6C 1
414 Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten left f6B+ 4
415 Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1 f7C 1
416 Tony's Bloody Finger E1 5b,5b 2
417 Monosod E2 5c *  
418 End of the Line E1 5b 2
419 Tower of Babel indirect E1 5b  
420 The Gherkin f7A *** 2
421 Not Zippy's Variant 3 f6C * 2
422 Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6) f6B+ 8
423 Tiger Direct VS 4c 1
424 Tiger Traverse HVS 5a  
425 Tiger Groove HS 4a  
426 Has She Been? S 4a 1
427 Mompesson Rich Pickings MVS 4c  
428 Holly HVS 5c  
429 Willow HVS 5c  
430 Problem 12 f6B 1
431 Choss Side * HVS 4c 1
432 Harris Problem 3 *
-
f7B+ 1
433 Blockheads Arete non eliminate * V0+ 5a 2
434 Phil 's phigure of 8 (minus ten) * f6C 3
435 Phil 's phigure of 16 (minus ten) * f6C+ 1
436 Phil 's phigure of 24 (minus ten) * f6C+  
437 Higherlands
-
6a 3
438 Jambon's Undercut * f7B+ 1
439 Dan Middleton * E2 5c *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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