Climbs 418
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

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Mark on the short sharp crux of Little Plumb (pitch one) © Wft

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Electric quarry
2 Roraima
-
HVS 5b 3
3 The Disillusioned Brew Machine
-
E3 5c 4
4 Holy Schmitt E3 5c 2
5 Helmut Schmitt E6 6b ** 13
6 Cabbage Crack E4 6a ** 129
7 Jasper E3 6a ** 112
8 The Heat
-
E5 6a 4
9 Oliver E4 6a *** 75
10 Millionaire Touch E4 6b *** 55
11 X Calibre E6 6b 1
12 Icarus E1 5b 4
13 Brown Corner HVS 5a * 59
14 One 'ard Move
-
E6 6b 1
15 Damocles E3 5b * 16
16 Golden Boy E5 6b * 2
17 Emotional Rescue E5 6b * 11
18 John Peel E2 5b * 51
19 Creeping Flesh E4 6a  
  The Slurper
21 Acrophobia HVS 5a * 43
22 J Arthur E1 5b 5
23 Easy Action E1 5b ** 56
24 The Slurper E1 5c * 52
25 Gollyberry
-
E2 5c 11
26 Lard Wall
-
E5 6a 1
27 Psychopath
-
E1 5b 4
28 Daedalus
-
E4 6a 1
29 Vicky
-
E1 5b  
  Mortuary Buttress
31 Drainpipe Groove VS 4c 15
32 Speed Kills E4 6a * 8
33 The Morgue E3 5c * 18
34 Mortuary Steps HVS 5b ** 138
35 Hart Attack E5 6b 1
36 Cardiac Arrest E4 6a * 9
37 Beta Blocker E5 6b  
38 Little Capucin HVS 5a * 49
  The Triglyph
40 Who the Hell
-
E1 5c  
41 To Hell and Back E3 5b  
42 How the Hell VS 4c * 67
43 What the Hell VS 4b * 121
44 Hell Hath No Fury E2 5b  
45 Morning Crack S 4a * 68
  Ivy Buttress
47 Naze VD 8
48 Child's Arete HVS 5a 5
49 Emanon
-
HS 7
  Prayer Wheel Wall
51 Omlette E3 6a 9
52 Om E1 5b * 252
53 Shit Wall E2 5b 58
54 Nowt Said
-
E2 5c  
55 Mani E1 5b * 376
56 Blinkers E2 5c * 9
57 Padme HVS 5a ** 616
58 Sign My Name E2 5c 11
59 Asparagus VS 4b * 298
60 Looking Through Gary Gibson's Eyes HVS 5a 19
61 Robin E2 5b 16
62 Cock-a-leekie Wall E2 5c 150
63 Vinegar Fly HVS 5a 6
64 Minestrone HVS 4c * 72
65 Rosehip Wine HS 4a * 139
  Pearly Gates Buttress
67 Jungle Arete
-
VD 7
68 Pollyanna E1 5b 16
69 Lesley Ann E3 6a 1
70 Horizon S 4a 32
71 Canine of Brine E2 5b 1
72 Juggernaut VS 5a 13
73 Scanner E1 5b  
74 Master of Tides VS 4b 2
75 Lost Horizon S 4a 58
76 Aux Bicyclettes VD 50
77 The Crux
-
HVS 5c  
78 Fingal's Flue HS 3c 30
79 Fingal's Cave HVS 5a 17
80 The Groper VS 4c 6
81 No Statesman E3 6b  
82 Scurvy Knave
-
HVS 5b  
83 The White Knight VD 62
84 Ben
-
E2 5c 4
85 Gabriel and the Pearly Gates VS 4c *** 689
86 Solitaire E1 5b * 102
87 Haven't Got a Cluedo E2 5c * 3
88 St. Peter E1 5c * 307
89 St. Paul E3 5c 15
90 Parachute VS 4b * 272
91 Parr Kor E5 6a  
92 Roman Candle VS 4c 13
93 Au Gratin HS 4a 61
94 Honeysuckle Lane E1 5b  
95 Moss Side E2 5b 1
96 Didgery Doodah E1 5a  
  George's Wall
98 George's Wall Eliminate 1 f6A  
99 George's Wall Eliminate 2 f6C 6
100 George's Wall Dyno f7B 6
101 Quent's Legendary Dyno f7C * 4
102 The Groove f6A+ 7
  Minus Ten Wall
104 Cracked Wall f3+ 59
105 Flat Wall f4+ 64
106 Triangle Link-up f5+ * 44
107 Minus Wall E1 5b 19
108 Minus Wall Start f4+ * 65
109 Minus Wall Right f6B+ * 65
110 Minus Wall Traverse f6B+ * 34
111 Minus Ten HVS 5a * 335
112 Great Escape E1 5b 5
113 Jam Sandwich E5 6b 12
114 Traffic Jam E5 6b ** 107
115 Double Scotch E2 5b * 361
116 Cointreau HVS 5a * 166
117 The Flashing Fisher E3 5c 19
118 Pygmies Walk Tall E1 5b * 35
119 Thrutch HVS 5a 32
120 Flat Light E2 5c 1
121 Quent's Dyno f7B ** 83
122 Not Ned's Problem f7B+ * 33
123 Harris Problem f7B+ * 4
124 White Ladder f7B+ ** 16
125 White Ladder (sit start) f7C 10
126 The JABP f7C ** 3
127 Sharp Pocket f7B+ *** 1
128 Little Warm-up f5 37
129 Egyptian Feet f7A+ *** 97
130 Egyptian Variation f7A+ * 17
131 Easy dyno f6A * 46
132 One Arm Bandit f7B * 56
133 Kirton Dyno f7A+ * 95
134 Sean's Problem f7B+ ** 25
135 Sean's Problem Variant f7C 2
136 Zippy's Sidepull f7B+ ** 36
137 Guidebook Eleven f6C+ * 150
138 Slopey Sidepull f7A+ * 31
139 Gav's Problem f7B * 3
140 Harris Problem 1 f7B *** 1
141 Lucian's Undercut f7A ** 91
142 Zippy's Problem f7B+ ** 24
143 Zippy's Problem variant 1 f7B+ * 10
144 Zippy's Problem variant 2 f7C ** 8
145 Pinch 2 f8A+ *** 2
146 Jason's Variant f8A **  
Climb name Grade
147 Nasty Traverse
-
f7C+ * 5
148 The Double Double f6C * 138
149 Young American f7A+ ** 104
150 Prefab Brick Cake f5 * 30
151 Face Off f6B 47
152 Coffee High f6B * 22
153 Facade f6C 26
154 Megatron f7A+ * 35
155 Megatron Turbo f7A+ 3
156 High Break f5 * 40
157 Middle Break f6B * 160
158 No Break f6C+ ** 37
159 Slopey Sidepull Variant f7B * 12
160 Zeno's Sidepull f7C 5
161 Coffee Mate * V4+ 2
162 Zippy's Problem Variant 4 * V9 1
163 Minus 10 pence * f6C+ 1
164 The Double Trouble * f6B 2
  Carl's Walk
166 Tiger Crack E2 6a * 2
167 CostaBrava HVS 5b 6
168 Carl's Wark Traverse f7B ***  
169 Little Crack
-
VS 5a 15
170 Squeek E5 6a  
171 More Air than Chocolate f6A * 8
172 Flake and Pillar E1 5b 40
173 Au Revoir Monodoigt f7B ** 1
174 Bubbles Start f6A+ ** 18
175 Bubbles Wall E4 6b ** 119
176 Bubbles Original E3 5c * 33
177 Black Kabul E5 6b * 14
178 Carls Wark Crack E2 5c ** 207
179 Scarab E6 6b ** 13
180 All Systems Go E6 6c  
181 Green Crack VS 4c * 97
182 Soapsuds E3 6a * 48
183 Shaky Crack
-
VD 9
184 Soapsuds Left f5 6
185 soapsuds Crack f4+ 6
186 Soapsuds Right f6A 2
187 Soapsuds Traverse f6B+ * 20
  Medusa Bay
189 Hammer
-
VS 4b 1
190 Whet
-
E2 5b 1
191 Sickle E1 5a * 37
192 Boat Pushers Wall E3 5c * 39
193 Big Boris E5 6a 4
194 Wee Doris E4 5c *** 262
195 Medusa E1 5b ** 239
196 Gesemini original E1 5b 16
197 Gesemini Direct E3 5c * 43
198 Pickpocket E4 6a ** 94
199 Balthazaaaaah E5 6a * 3
200 The Artful Dodger E5 6b 2
  Bitterfingers Bay
202 Frisco Bay VS 4c * 66
203 Bay of Pigs
-
E1 5b 5
204 Golden Gate HVS 5a ** 151
205 Hinges E1 5b, 5a 7
206 Bingo Wall E2 5b ** 182
207 Kelly's Eye E4 6a * 48
208 The year of living Dangerously
-
E4 5c 1
209 Mind Blind E6 6b 2
210 The Rainbow Woman
-
E3 6a 2
211 Wallop HS 4b * 28
212 Flavour of the Month
-
E6 6b * 1
213 My Personal Pleasure
-
E6 6c 1
214 Thumb E4 6a 2
215 Belinda E4 6a * 2
216 Froth VS 4c ** 473
217 Mottled Wall
-
E4 5c 8
218 Mingtled/Mottled Wall E4 5c * 12
219 Dead Banana Crack E1 5c *** 528
220 Top Banana
-
E3 6a 7
221 Bitterfingers E4 6a *** 214
222 The Great Leveller E6 6b 1
223 Okra E4 6a * 8
224 Fe Fi Fo Fum HVS 5a * 300
225 Saag Line E4 6b  
226 Beanstalk E3 5c 6
227 Augean VS 4c * 76
228 Hercules E4 5c 3
229 Sisyphean E4 6a * 2
230 Ivy Grotto Direct HVS 5a 3
231 Slab and Arete
-
HVS 5a  
232 Anything Corner VS 4b 11
233 Mineshaft M * 38
234 Shellfish Shuffle
-
S 5
235 Tantalus HS 4b 10
  Tom's Roof
237 The Womb f6C * 33
238 Tom's Original f7A * 259
239 Tom's Original Reverse f7A 50
240 The Full Reverse f7A * 4
241 Punker Bunker f7A+ ** 85
242 Power Allowance f7B ** 64
243 Power Allowance Check f7B+ * 9
244 Triple Drop f7C 1
245 Swing Thing f7C * 41
246 Harris Problem 2 f7B+ * 1
247 Figure of 8 f7B+ * 35
248 Figure of 16 f7C * 10
249 Figure of 24 f7C 1
250 Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) f7C ** 15
251 Figure of minus 16 f7C ** 2
252 Rack and Ruin f7C 10
253 Armbandit f7A+ ** 8
254 PDB problem 12 f7C 1
255 Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB) f7C 2
256 One Summer Problem f7C * 3
257 Pete's Power Pull f7C ** 8
258 Power trip f7C 7
259 Side Wall Traverse f7C  
260 Diamond Pinch f7C ** 6
261 The Power Pinch f7C+ 1
262 Quintesscence f8A **  
  Tom's Roof link-ups
264 The Womb into Tom's Original f7A ** 20
265 Tom's Original There and Back f7A+ * 35
266 The Womb into Power Allowance f7B * 3
267 Jerryatricks f7C+ * 12
268 Jerryatricks 2.0 f7C+ *** 5
269 Jerry's Problem f7C+ 2
270 Jimmyatricks f7C+ 1
271 Figure of 0 f7C 2
272 Claude Butler f7C+ 1
273 Wack and Ruin f7C ** 4
274 The Broken Brolly Link f7C+ * 2
275 You've Pulled f8A 5
276 Abu Ali's Hand Gun f8A * 1
277 Jerry-Wack-Tricks f7C+ * 1
  Tower of Babel
279 Babylon Bypass
-
HVS 4b 4
280 Glory Road VS 4b * 217
281 Sin VS 4c ** 319
282 Lucy Simmons E2 5b * 98
283 The Tower of Babel
-
E1 5b 38
284 Revulva HVS 5b 2
  Windy Buttress
286 Chantrelle E1 5a 12
287 Black Teddy
-
E2 5c 8
288 Inquisitor E2 5c * 146
289 Tuba Mirum
-
E5 6b * 2
290 Dies Irae E2 5c *** 269
291 Stuff the Turkey E4 6b 5
292 Circe E5 6b ** 66
Climb name Grade
293 Gaspera E5 6b * 2
294 Swine Vesicular E6 6b  
295 Kink E5 6b ** 17
296 Kinky 7c 1
297 Kellogg E5 6b * 23
298 Nice in Nice E5 6b * 2
299 Kingdom Come E5 6b * 18
300 Special K E4 6a * 18
301 The Flakes Direct E2 5c *** 120
302 The Flakes E2 5c ** 82
303 Armageddon E2 5c *** 246
304 Windhover E2 5c ** 295
305 Transmaiacon
-
E5 6a 2
306 Choss
-
HVS 5b 26
307 Scoop Wall E2 5c *** 437
308 Our Father E4 6b *** 129
309 Menopause E5 6b ** 12
310 Memnon E2 5c * 55
311 Memnon Variation
-
E3 5c 13
312 Racial Harmony E4 5c * 2
313 Aurora VS 4c ** 362
314 Hysterectomy E5 6c  
315 Adios Tango E4 6a * 2
316 Aurora ArĂȘte HVS 5a ** 92
317 Aurora Arete/Tiger Trot HVS 5a ** 130
318 Tiger Trot VD * 49
319 Alcasan E2 5c *** 165
320 Immortal Combat 6b+ 2
  Garage Buttress
322 Fluffy Roo Meets the Woodentops
-
6b+ 1
323 Ticket to the Underworld E4 4a,5c 1
324 Compositae Groove HVS 5a * 63
325 Trigger 7a+ 4
326 Two Ton Ted from Teddington 6b+ 6
327 Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door 6c 11
328 Bohemian 6b+ * 27
329 Empty Cartridge 6b+ * 29
330 Unloaded 6c 17
331 Reloaded 6b+ * 41
332 Matricide E4 6a 14
333 Matrix E3 5b 2
334 I Hate You 7a+ * 43
335 Four Minute Tiler E5 6b * 7
336 Alex It was Nothing Really E5 6b 1
337 La Belle et la Bete E6 6b * 5
338 Colonel Bogey E4 6a ** 37
339 Helicon E3 5c ** 76
340 Rippemoff E1 5c * 93
341 Pullemdown E5 6a *  
342 Chewemoff E4 6a * 11
343 Gerremdown E3 4c,5b ** 7
344 Turf 'em Off 6b+ 17
345 Glue 'em Back 7b 4
346 There Maybe Rubble Ahead 7b 1
347 Rubble Rouser 7c 1
348 Dig Deeper 8a * 4
349 Dig Deep For Victory 7c 13
350 Ozone Bozo 7c * 55
351 Tollbar 8a+ 6
352 Double the Rubble 7c * 4
353 Trouble with Rubble 7c+ * 8
354 The Big Apple 8a * 31
355 Golden Delicious 8a *  
356 The Lover's Leap 7b+ * 2
357 Easy Skanking E6 6b  
358 Little Plum (pitch 1) 7c+ ** 27
359 Little Plum 8a *** 29
360 Big Nose E4 6a 2
361 Ming the Merciless 8a+ * 1
362 The King of Ming (Redundant) 7b+ ** 61
363 Virgin King 7b+ ** 115
364 Virgin on the Loose E6 6b  
365 Smoothlands 6a 89
366 Lowerlands 5c 58
367 Flycatcher E5 6a 2
368 Lowlands 6c+ * 118
369 Dreamcatcher 6b+ * 238
370 Creamsnatcher 6b * 197
371 Gulp and Go 6b+ * 62
372 Evasor VS 4c ** 143
373 Can't Stop Now 6c 52
374 Redeployed 6c+ * 21
375 Up Yours 7a * 24
376 Four Thousand 6b+ * 168
377 Two Thousand 6a+ 97
378 Onwards and Upwards 6a 160
379 Nowt about Change 6b 98
380 Just End It! 6a+ * 19
381 End, Stop, Finale 6b 53
382 The Last Stop 5b 62
383 Atropos HVS 5a * 6
384 Aquiline HVS 5b * 17
385 Pendulum HVS 5a ** 89
386 My Girdle is Killing Me
-
E4 6a, 5b 2
  Other Bouldering
388 Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right) V1 5c 17
389 Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V2 6a 20
390 Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V4 6b * 11
391 Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6B 11
392 Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6A 8
393 Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6C+ 6
394 Odd Thing f7B 10
395 Arete left hand f6A * 5
396 Arete right hand f6C+ * 1
397 Problem 6 f7A 21
398 Problem 13 (Left hand Side) f7A 7
399 Triangular Pockets f6B+ ** 11
  unknown/not in guide/Incorrect, entries
401 RF, Problem 5 f7A ** 1
402 Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right) f6C 5
403 Problem 7 f7A+ 9
404 Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6) f7A 9
405 Problem 8 f7A+ 4
406 Pdb problem 1 central f7B+ * 1
407 Triangle Undercling f6C * 1
408 Blockhead's Arete f7A+ 10
409 Crimp Shrimp f6B ** 7
410 UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left. f7A 4
411 Left (UKB online topo) f6C 1
412 Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten left f6B+ 4
413 Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1 f7C 1
414 The Brighton Line E1 5b,5b * 9
415 Tony's Bloody Finger E1 5b,5b 2
416 Monosod E2 5c *  
417 End of the Line E1 5b 2
418 Tower of Babel indirect E1 5b  
419 The Gherkin f7A *** 2
420 Not Zippy's Variant 3 f6C * 2
421 Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6) f6B+ 8
422 Tiger Direct VS 4c 1
423 Tiger Traverse HVS 5a  
424 Tiger Groove HS 4a  
425 Has She Been? S 4a 1
426 Mompesson Rich Pickings MVS 4c  
427 Holly HVS 5c  
428 Willow HVS 5c  
429 Problem 12 f6B 1
430 Choss Side * HVS 4c 1
431 Harris Problem 3 *
-
f7B+ 1
432 Blockheads Arete non eliminate * V0+ 5a 2
433 Phil 's phigure of 8 (minus ten) * f6C 3
434 Phil 's phigure of 16 (minus ten) * f6C+ 1
435 Phil 's phigure of 24 (minus ten) * f6C+  
436 Higherlands
-
6a 2
437 Jambon's Undercut * f7B+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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