Climbs 421
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

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Mark on the short sharp crux of Little Plumb (pitch one) © Wft

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Rockfax App

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Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Electric quarry
2 Roraima
-
HVS 5b 3
3 Holy Schmitt E3 5c 2
4 Helmut Schmitt E6 6b ** 14
5 Cabbage Crack E4 6a ** 135
6 Jasper E3 6a ** 118
7 The Heat
-
E5 6a 4
8 Oliver E4 6a *** 78
9 Millionaire Touch E4 6b *** 62
10 X Calibre E6 6b 1
11 Brown Corner HVS 5a * 62
12 One 'ard Move
-
E6 6b 1
13 Damocles E3 5b * 18
14 Golden Boy E5 6b * 2
15 Emotional Rescue E5 6b * 11
16 John Peel E2 5b * 55
17 Creeping Flesh E4 6a 1
18 Icarus E1 5b 4
19 Vicky
-
E1 5b  
  The Slurper
21 Daedalus
-
E4 6a 1
22 Psychopath
-
E1 5b 4
23 Lard Wall
-
E5 6a 1
24 Gollyberry
-
E2 5c 11
25 Acrophobia HVS 5a * 44
26 J Arthur E1 5b 5
27 Easy Action E1 5b ** 62
28 The Slurper E1 5c * 53
29 The Disillusioned Brew Machine
-
E3 5c 4
30 Get Six into the Mix * E3 5c * 2
  Mortuary Buttress
32 Drainpipe Groove VS 4c 15
33 Speed Kills E4 6a * 8
34 The Morgue E3 5c * 18
35 Mortuary Steps HVS 5b ** 143
36 Cardiac Arrest E4 6a * 9
37 Hart Attack E5 6b 1
38 Beta Blocker E5 6b  
39 Little Capucin HVS 5a * 52
  The Triglyph
41 Who the Hell
-
E1 5c  
42 To Hell and Back E3 5b  
43 How the Hell VS 4c * 73
44 What the Hell VS 4b * 129
45 Hell Hath No Fury E2 5b  
46 Morning Crack S 4a * 69
  Ivy Buttress
48 Naze VD 8
49 Child's Arete HVS 5a 5
50 Emanon
-
HS 8
  Prayer Wheel Wall
52 Omlette E3 6a 9
53 Om E1 5b * 268
54 Shit Wall E2 5b 59
55 Nowt Said
-
E2 5c  
56 Mani E1 5b * 385
57 Blinkers E2 5c * 11
58 Padme HVS 5a ** 653
59 Sign My Name E2 5c 13
60 Asparagus VS 4b * 320
61 Looking Through Gary Gibson's Eyes HVS 5a 21
62 Robin E2 5b 16
63 Cock-a-leekie Wall E2 5c 152
64 Vinegar Fly HVS 5a 6
65 Minestrone HVS 4c * 73
66 Rosehip Wine HS 4a * 152
  Pearly Gates Buttress
68 Jungle Arete
-
VD 7
69 Pollyanna E1 5b 16
70 Lesley Ann E3 6a 1
71 Horizon S 4a 33
72 Canine of Brine E2 5b 1
73 Juggernaut VS 5a 13
74 Scanner E1 5b  
75 Master of Tides VS 4b 2
76 Lost Horizon S 4a 60
77 Aux Bicyclettes VD 56
78 The Crux
-
HVS 5c  
79 Fingal's Flue HS 3c 30
80 Fingal's Cave HVS 5a 17
81 The Groper VS 4c 6
82 No Statesman E3 6b  
83 Scurvy Knave
-
HVS 5b 1
84 The White Knight VD 66
85 Ben
-
E2 5c 4
86 Gabriel and the Pearly Gates VS 4c *** 735
87 Solitaire E1 5b * 107
88 Haven't Got a Cluedo E2 5c * 3
89 St. Peter E1 5c * 313
90 St. Paul E3 5c 15
91 Parachute VS 4b * 281
92 Parr Kor E5 6a  
93 Roman Candle VS 4c 13
94 Au Gratin HS 4a 64
95 Honeysuckle Lane E1 5b  
96 Moss Side E2 5b 1
97 Didgery Doodah E1 5a  
  George's Wall
99 George's Wall Eliminate 1 f6A  
100 George's Wall Eliminate 2 f6C 6
101 George's Wall Dyno f7B 6
102 Quent's Legendary Dyno f7C * 4
103 The Groove f6A+ 7
  Minus Ten Wall
105 Cracked Wall f3+ 64
106 Flat Wall f4+ 68
107 Triangle Link-up f5+ * 46
108 Minus Wall E1 5b 19
109 Minus Wall Start f4+ * 74
110 Minus Wall Right f6B+ * 72
111 Minus Wall Traverse f6B+ * 43
112 Minus Ten HVS 5a * 345
113 Great Escape E1 5b 5
114 Jam Sandwich E5 6b 13
115 Traffic Jam E5 6b ** 116
116 Double Scotch E2 5b * 384
117 Cointreau HVS 5a * 178
118 The Flashing Fisher E3 5c 19
119 Pygmies Walk Tall E1 5b * 38
120 Thrutch HVS 5a 32
121 Flat Light E2 5c 1
122 Quent's Dyno f7B ** 84
123 Not Ned's Problem f7B+ * 33
124 Harris Problem f7B+ * 4
125 White Ladder f7B+ ** 17
126 White Ladder (sit start) f7C 10
127 The JABP f7C ** 3
128 Sharp Pocket f7B+ *** 1
129 Little Warm-up f5 42
130 Egyptian Feet f7A+ *** 99
131 Egyptian Variation f7A+ * 19
132 Easy dyno f6A * 50
133 One Arm Bandit f7B * 56
134 Kirton Dyno f7A+ * 98
135 Sean's Problem f7B+ ** 25
136 Sean's Problem Variant f7C 2
137 Zippy's Sidepull f7B+ ** 36
138 Guidebook Eleven f6C+ * 153
139 Slopey Sidepull f7A+ * 33
140 Gav's Problem f7B * 4
141 Harris Problem 1 f7B *** 1
142 Lucian's Undercut f7A ** 94
143 Zippy's Problem f7B+ ** 24
144 Zippy's Problem variant 1 f7B+ * 11
145 Zippy's Problem variant 2 f7C ** 8
146 Pinch 2 f8A+ *** 2
147 Jason's Variant f8A **  
Climb name Grade
148 Nasty Traverse
-
f7C+ * 5
149 The Double Double f6C * 143
150 Young American f7A+ ** 105
151 Prefab Brick Cake f5 * 33
152 Face Off f6B 48
153 Coffee High f6B * 25
154 Facade f6C 29
155 Megatron f7A+ * 39
156 Megatron Turbo f7A+ 3
157 High Break f5 * 44
158 Middle Break f6B * 166
159 No Break f6C+ ** 38
160 Slopey Sidepull Variant f7B * 12
161 Zeno's Sidepull f7C 5
162 Coffee Mate * V4+ 2
163 Zippy's Problem Variant 4 * V9 1
164 Minus 10 pence * f6C+ 1
165 The Double Trouble * f6B 2
166 Sean’s variation * f7B 1
  Carl's Walk
168 Tiger Crack E2 6a * 2
169 CostaBrava HVS 5b 6
170 Carl's Wark Traverse f7B ***  
171 Little Crack
-
VS 5a 15
172 Squeek E5 6a  
173 More Air than Chocolate f6A * 12
174 Flake and Pillar E1 5b 43
175 Au Revoir Monodoigt f7B ** 1
176 Bubbles Start f6A+ ** 19
177 Bubbles Wall E4 6b ** 123
178 Bubbles Original E3 5c * 37
179 Black Kabul E5 6b * 15
180 Carls Wark Crack E2 5c ** 213
181 Scarab E6 6b ** 15
182 All Systems Go E6 6c 1
183 Green Crack VS 4c * 101
184 Soapsuds E3 6a * 51
185 Shaky Crack
-
VD 9
186 Soapsuds Left f5 6
187 soapsuds Crack f4+ 8
188 Soapsuds Right f6A 2
189 Soapsuds Traverse f6B+ * 21
  Medusa Bay
191 Hammer
-
VS 4b 1
192 Whet
-
E2 5b 1
193 Sickle E1 5a * 37
194 Boat Pushers Wall E3 5c * 39
195 Big Boris E5 6a 4
196 Wee Doris E4 5c *** 271
197 Medusa E1 5b ** 257
198 Gesemini original E1 5b 16
199 Gesemini Direct E3 5c * 45
200 Pickpocket E4 6a ** 101
201 Balthazaaaaah E5 6a * 4
202 The Artful Dodger E5 6b 2
  Bitterfingers Bay
204 Frisco Bay VS 4c * 67
205 Bay of Pigs
-
E1 5b 5
206 Golden Gate HVS 5a ** 156
207 Hinges E1 5b, 5a 7
208 Bingo Wall E2 5b ** 196
209 Kelly's Eye E4 6a * 49
210 The Brighton Line E1 5b,5b * 9
211 The year of living Dangerously
-
E4 5c 1
212 Mind Blind E6 6b 2
213 The Rainbow Woman
-
E3 6a 2
214 Wallop HS 4b * 31
215 Flavour of the Month
-
E6 6b * 2
216 My Personal Pleasure
-
E6 6c 2
217 Thumb E4 6a 2
218 Belinda E4 6a * 2
219 Froth VS 4c ** 489
220 Mottled Wall
-
E4 5c 8
221 Mingtled/Mottled Wall E4 5c * 12
222 Dead Banana Crack E1 5c *** 557
223 Top Banana
-
E3 6a 8
224 Bitterfingers E4 6a *** 222
225 The Great Leveller E6 6b 2
226 Okra E4 6a * 8
227 Fe Fi Fo Fum HVS 5a * 315
228 Saag Line E4 6b  
229 Beanstalk E3 5c 7
230 Augean VS 4c * 81
231 Hercules E4 5c 3
232 Sisyphean E4 6a * 2
233 Ivy Grotto Direct HVS 5a 3
234 Slab and Arete
-
HVS 5a  
235 Anything Corner VS 4b 12
236 Mineshaft M * 43
237 Shellfish Shuffle
-
S 5
238 Tantalus HS 4b 10
  Tom's Roof
240 The Womb f6C * 35
241 Tom's Original f7A * 267
242 Tom's Original Reverse f7A 54
243 The Full Reverse f7A * 7
244 Punker Bunker f7A+ ** 88
245 Power Allowance f7B ** 65
246 Power Allowance Check f7B+ * 10
247 Triple Drop f7C 3
248 Swing Thing f7C * 43
249 Harris Problem 2 f7B+ * 1
250 Figure of 8 f7B+ * 37
251 Figure of 16 f7C * 12
252 Figure of 24 f7C 1
253 Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) f7C ** 15
254 Figure of minus 16 f7C ** 3
255 Rack and Ruin f7C 10
256 Armbandit f7A+ ** 9
257 PDB problem 12 f7C 1
258 Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB) f7C 2
259 One Summer Problem f7C * 3
260 Pete's Power Pull f7C ** 8
261 Power trip f7C 7
262 Side Wall Traverse f7C  
263 Diamond Pinch f7C ** 6
264 The Power Pinch f7C+ 2
265 Quintesscence f8A **  
  Tom's Roof link-ups
267 The Womb into Tom's Original f7A ** 22
268 Tom's Original There and Back f7A+ * 37
269 The Womb into Power Allowance f7B * 4
270 Jerryatricks f7C+ * 12
271 Jerryatricks 2.0 f7C+ *** 5
272 Jerry's Problem f7C+ 2
273 Jimmyatricks f7C+ 1
274 Figure of 0 f7C 2
275 Claude Butler f7C+ 1
276 Wack and Ruin f7C ** 4
277 The Broken Brolly Link f7C+ * 2
278 You've Pulled f8A 5
279 Abu Ali's Hand Gun f8A * 2
280 Jerry-Wack-Tricks f7C+ * 1
  Tower of Babel
282 Babylon Bypass
-
HVS 4b 4
283 Glory Road VS 4b * 228
284 Sin VS 4c ** 340
285 Lucy Simmons E2 5b * 99
286 The Tower of Babel
-
E1 5b 38
287 Revulva HVS 5b 2
  Windy Buttress
289 Chantrelle E1 5a 13
290 Black Teddy
-
E2 5c 8
291 Inquisitor E2 5c * 154
292 Tuba Mirum
-
E5 6b * 2
293 Dies Irae E2 5c *** 278
294 Stuff the Turkey E4 6b 5
Climb name Grade
295 Circe E5 6b ** 67
296 Gaspera E5 6b * 2
297 Swine Vesicular E6 6b  
298 Kink E5 6b ** 18
299 Kinky 7c 1
300 Kellogg E5 6b * 23
301 Nice in Nice E5 6b * 2
302 Kingdom Come E5 6b * 18
303 Special K E4 6a * 18
304 The Flakes Direct E2 5c *** 129
305 The Flakes E2 5c ** 83
306 Armageddon E2 5c *** 259
307 Windhover E2 5c ** 309
308 Transmaiacon
-
E5 6a 2
309 Choss
-
HVS 5b 27
310 Scoop Wall E2 5c *** 461
311 Our Father E4 6b *** 131
312 Menopause E5 6b ** 16
313 Memnon E2 5c * 56
314 Memnon Variation
-
E3 5c 13
315 Racial Harmony E4 5c * 2
316 Aurora VS 4c ** 384
317 Hysterectomy E5 6c  
318 Adios Tango E4 6a * 2
319 Aurora Arête HVS 5a ** 101
320 Aurora Arete/Tiger Trot HVS 5a ** 132
321 Tiger Trot VD * 50
322 Alcasan E2 5c *** 176
323 Immortal Combat 6b+ 2
  Garage Buttress
325 Fluffy Roo Meets the Woodentops
-
6b+ 1
326 Ticket to the Underworld E4 4a,5c 1
327 Compositae Groove HVS 5a * 64
328 Trigger 7a+ 4
329 Two Ton Ted from Teddington 6b+ 6
330 Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door 6c 11
331 Bohemian 6b+ * 27
332 Empty Cartridge 6b+ * 29
333 Unloaded 6c 20
334 Reloaded 6b+ * 45
335 Matricide E4 6a 14
336 Matrix E3 5b 2
337 I Hate You 7a+ * 46
338 Four Minute Tiler E5 6b * 7
339 Alex It was Nothing Really E5 6b 1
340 La Belle et la Bete E6 6b * 5
341 Colonel Bogey E4 6a ** 38
342 Helicon E3 5c ** 79
343 Rippemoff E1 5c * 93
344 Pullemdown E5 6a *  
345 Chewemoff E4 6a * 11
346 Gerremdown E3 4c,5b ** 7
347 Turf 'em Off 6b+ 17
348 Glue 'em Back 7b 4
349 There Maybe Rubble Ahead 7b 1
350 Rubble Rouser 7c 1
351 Dig Deeper 8a * 4
352 Dig Deep For Victory 7c 13
353 Ozone Bozo 7c * 62
354 Tollbar 8a+ 6
355 Double the Rubble 7c * 5
356 Trouble with Rubble 7c+ * 8
357 The Big Apple 8a * 35
358 Golden Delicious 8a *  
359 The Lover's Leap 7b+ * 2
360 Easy Skanking E6 6b  
361 Little Plum (pitch 1) 7c+ ** 30
362 Little Plum 8a *** 29
363 Big Nose E4 6a 2
364 Ming the Merciless 8a+ * 1
365 The King of Ming (Redundant) 7b+ ** 63
366 Virgin King 7b+ ** 128
367 Virgin on the Loose E6 6b  
368 Smoothlands 6a 102
369 Lowerlands 5c 63
370 Flycatcher E5 6a 2
371 Lowlands 6c+ * 120
372 Dreamcatcher 6b+ * 253
373 Creamsnatcher 6b * 209
374 Gulp and Go 6b+ * 68
375 Evasor VS 4c ** 148
376 Can't Stop Now 6c 53
377 Redeployed 6c+ * 21
378 Up Yours 7a * 26
379 Four Thousand 6b+ * 180
380 Two Thousand 6a+ 104
381 Onwards and Upwards 6a 168
382 Nowt about Change 6b 105
383 Just End It! 6a+ * 29
384 End, Stop, Finale 6b 59
385 The Last Stop 5b 63
386 Atropos HVS 5a * 6
387 Aquiline HVS 5b * 17
388 Pendulum HVS 5a ** 98
389 My Girdle is Killing Me
-
E4 6a, 5b 2
  Other Bouldering
391 Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right) V1 5c 17
392 Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V2 6a 20
393 Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V4 6b * 11
394 Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6B 11
395 Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6A 8
396 Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6C+ 6
397 Odd Thing f7B 10
398 Arete left hand f6A * 5
399 Arete right hand f6C+ * 1
400 Problem 6 f7A 21
401 Problem 13 (Left hand Side) f7A 7
402 Triangular Pockets f6B+ ** 11
  unknown/not in guide/Incorrect, entries
404 RF, Problem 5 f7A ** 1
405 Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right) f6C 5
406 Problem 7 f7A+ 9
407 Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6) f7A 9
408 Problem 8 f7A+ 4
409 Pdb problem 1 central f7B+ * 1
410 Triangle Undercling f6C * 1
411 Blockhead's Arete f7A+ 11
412 Crimp Shrimp f6B ** 7
413 UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left. f7A 4
414 Left (UKB online topo) f6C 1
415 Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten left f6B+ 4
416 Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1 f7C 1
417 Tony's Bloody Finger E1 5b,5b 2
418 Monosod E2 5c *  
419 End of the Line E1 5b 2
420 Tower of Babel indirect E1 5b  
421 The Gherkin f7A *** 2
422 Not Zippy's Variant 3 f6C * 2
423 Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6) f6B+ 8
424 Tiger Direct VS 4c 1
425 Tiger Traverse HVS 5a  
426 Tiger Groove HS 4a  
427 Has She Been? S 4a 1
428 Mompesson Rich Pickings MVS 4c  
429 Holly HVS 5c  
430 Willow HVS 5c  
431 Problem 12 f6B 1
432 Choss Side * HVS 4c 1
433 Harris Problem 3 *
-
f7B+ 1
434 Blockheads Arete non eliminate * V0+ 5a 2
435 Phil 's phigure of 8 (minus ten) * f6C 3
436 Phil 's phigure of 16 (minus ten) * f6C+ 1
437 Phil 's phigure of 24 (minus ten) * f6C+  
438 Higherlands
-
6a 3
439 Jambon's Undercut * f7B+ 1
440 Dan Middleton * E2 5c *** 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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