Climbs 391
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces W

Mark on the short sharp crux of Little Plumb (pitch one) © Wood for Trees

Crag features

A series of impressive buttress up to 50m high offering almost exclusively traditional routes at mainly VS and above on good rock. One of the original forcing grounds of hard limestone climbing, now sadly neglected, and therefore seldom busy. Many superb climbs, although some classics are polished. Sheltered and quick drying. Too many superb routes to choose from, but of National worth are the multi-pitch traverse of Alcasan (E2) and Our Father (E4 6b,5a). Home of some of the hardest and most polished bouldering in the Peak.

Approach notes

A true roadside crag! From a large layby on the A623 just between the village of Stoney Middleton and the crag cross the road (1 min).

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
been caving today down carlswark, with mate, and a young lad.. thanks to the low life dirty scum bag, the took a dump in the gin entrance. shame on you,surely there was else where to do it.and by the way you need to see a doctor. gross.. good caving trip though, all the way to the shaft an back..
robert oakton - 01/Apr/14
If you looking for a great place to climb, classic problems with inspirational lines, good footholds and well maintained handholds, with great moves and a stunning atmosphere and surroundings. then DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT ever got to Stoney Middleston!...Ever!
Liam Copley - 11/Feb/09
I once bet Brian Cropper I could solo Minus Ten a hundred times in a day, we got to 35 and Brian got bored so he paid up on the bet :-)
Al Evans - 30/Jul/07
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Electric quarry
2 Roraima
-
HVS 5b 4
3 The Disillusioned Brew Machine
-
E3 5c 3
4 Holy Schmitt E3 5c 1
5 Helmut Schmitt E6 6b ** 7
6 Cabbage Crack E4 6a ** 100
7 Jasper E3 6a ** 95
8 The Heat
-
E5 6a 1
9 Oliver E4 6a *** 60
10 Millionaire Touch E4 6b *** 38
11 X Calibre E6 6b  
12 Icarus E1 5b 3
13 Brown Corner HVS 5a * 52
14 One 'ard Move
-
E6 6b 1
15 Damocles E3 5b * 16
16 Golden Boy E5 6b * 1
17 Emotional Rescue E5 6b * 10
18 John Peel E2 5b * 45
19 Creeping Flesh E4 6a  
  The Slurper
21 Acrophobia HVS 5a * 31
22 J Arthur E1 5b 6
23 Easy Action E1 5b ** 46
24 The Slurper E1 5c * 40
25 Gollyberry
-
E2 5c 10
26 Lard Wall
-
E5 6a 1
27 Psychopath
-
E1 5b 4
28 Daedalus
-
E4 6a 1
29 Vicky
-
E1 5b  
  Triglyph/Mortuary buttress
31 Drainpipe Groove VS 4c 16
32 Speed Kills E4 6a * 6
33 The Morgue E3 5c * 17
34 Mortuary Steps HVS 5b ** 124
35 Hart Attack E5 6b 1
36 Cardiac Arrest E4 6a * 8
37 Beta Blocker E5 6b  
38 Little Capucin HVS 5a * 44
39 How the Hell VS 4c * 58
40 What the Hell VS 4b * 104
41 Hell Hath No Fury E2 5b  
42 Morning Crack S 4a * 59
43 Hellish morning VS 4b **  
  Ivy Buttress
45 Naze VD 9
46 Child's Arete HVS 5a 5
47 Emanon
-
HS 7
  Prayer Wheel Wall
49 Omlette E3 6a 8
50 Om E1 5b * 227
51 Shit Wall E2 5b 52
52 Mani E1 5b * 337
53 Padme HVS 5a ** 527
  Pearly Gates Buttress
55 looking Through Gary Gibson's Eyes HVS 5a 12
56 Asparagus VS 4b * 238
57 Robin E2 5b 12
58 Cock-a-leekie Wall E2 5c 137
59 Vinegar Fly HVS 5a 5
60 Minestrone HVS 4c * 65
61 Rosehip Wine HS 4a * 100
62 Jungle Arete
-
VD 8
63 Pollyanna E1 5b 16
64 Juggernaut VS 5a 11
65 Horizon S 4a 23
66 Lost Horizon S 4a 45
67 Aux Bicyclettes VD 44
68 Fingal's Flue HS 3c 22
69 Fingal's Cave HVS 5a 12
70 The Groper VS 4c,4b 7
71 The White Knight VD 59
72 Ben
-
E2 5c 4
73 Gabriel and the Pearly Gates VS 4c *** 596
74 Solitaire E1 5b * 90
75 St. Peter E1 5c * 290
76 St. Paul E3 5c 15
77 Parachute VS 4b * 248
78 Roman Candle VS 4c 9
79 Au Gratin HS 4a 55
80 Didgery Doodah E1 5a  
  George's Wall
82 George's Wall Eliminate 1 f6A  
83 George's Wall Eliminate 2 f6C 6
84 George's Wall Dyno f7B 4
85 Quent's Legendary Dyno f7C * 3
86 The Groove f6A+ 7
  Minus Ten Wall
88 Cracked Wall f3+ 44
89 Flat Wall f4+ 45
90 Triangle Link-up f5+ * 36
91 Minus Wall E1 5b 17
92 Minus Wall Start f4+ * 44
93 Minus Wall Right f6B+ * 45
94 Minus Wall Traverse f6B+ * 9
95 Minus Ten HVS 5a * 303
96 Great Escape E1 5b 5
97 Jam Sandwich E5 6b 12
98 Traffic Jam E5 6b ** 93
99 Double Scotch E2 5b * 312
100 Cointreau HVS 5a * 136
101 The Flashing Fisher
-
E3 5c 15
102 Pygmies Walk Tall E1 5b * 30
103 Thrutch HVS 5a 30
104 Flat Light E2 5c 1
105 Quent's Dyno f7B ** 73
106 Not Ned's Problem f7B+ * 33
107 Harris Problem f7B+ * 4
108 White Ladder f7B+ ** 14
109 White Ladder (sit start) f7C 8
110 The JABP f7C ** 3
111 Sharp Pocket f7B+ *** 1
112 Little Warm-up f5 25
113 Egyptian Feet f7A+ *** 79
114 Egyptian Variation f7A+ * 10
115 Easy dyno f6A * 36
116 One Arm Bandit f7B * 51
117 Kirton Dyno f7A+ * 85
118 Sean's Problem f7B+ ** 21
119 Sean's Problem Variant f7C 2
120 Zippy's Sidepull f7B+ ** 31
121 Guidebook Eleven f6C+ * 127
122 Slopey Sidepull f7A+ * 24
123 Gav's Problem f7B * 3
124 Harris Problem 1 f7B *** 1
125 Lucian's Undercut f7A ** 82
126 Zippy's Problem f7B+ ** 20
127 Zippy's Problem variant 1 f7B+ * 8
128 Zippy's Problem variant 2 f7C ** 8
129 Pinch 2 f8A+ *** 2
130 Jason's Variant f8A **  
131 Nasty Traverse
-
f7C+ * 5
132 The Double Double f6C * 123
133 Young American f7A+ ** 98
134 Prefab Brick Cake f5 * 18
135 Face Off f6B 27
136 Coffee High f6B * 14
137 Facade f6C 20
138 Megatron f7A+ * 33
139 Megatron Turbo f7A+ 3
140 High Break f5 * 38
141 Middle Break f6B * 141
142 No Break f6C+ ** 34
143 Slopey Sidepull Variant f7B * 5
144 Zeno's Sidepull f7C 4
145 Coffee Mate * V4+ 1
  Carl's Walk
147 Tiger Crack E2 6a * 2
148 CostaBrava HVS 5b 6
149 Carl's Wark Traverse f7B ***  
150 Little Crack
-
VS 5a 13
151 Squeek E5 6a  
152 More Air than Chocolate f6A * 7
153 Flake and Pillar E1 5b 36
154 Au Revoir Monodoigt f7B **  
155 Bubbles Start f6A+ ** 16
156 Bubbles Wall E4 6b ** 110
157 Bubbles Original E3 5c * 24
158 Black Kabul E5 6b * 11
159 Carls Wark Crack E2 5c ** 194
160 Scarab E6 6b ** 8
161 All Systems Go E6 6c  
162 Green Crack VS 4c * 89
163 Soapsuds E3 6a * 41
164 Shaky Crack
-
VD 9
165 Soapsuds Left f5 3
166 soapsuds Crack f4+ 3
167 Soapsuds Right f6A 1
168 Soapsuds Traverse f6B+ * 17
  Medusa Bay
170 Hammer
-
VS 4b 1
171 Whet
-
E2 5b 1
172 Sickle E1 5a * 32
173 Boat Pushers Wall E3 5c * 34
174 Big Boris E5 6a 2
175 Wee Doris E4 5c *** 232
176 Medusa E1 5b ** 221
177 Gesemini original E1 5b 14
178 Gesemini Direct E3 5c * 35
179 Pickpocket E4 6a ** 90
180 The Artful Dodger E5 6b 2
  Bitterfingers Bay
182 Frisco Bay VS 4c * 53
183 Bay of Pigs
-
E1 5b 5
184 Golden Gate HVS 5a ** 138
185 Hinges E1 5b, 5a 4
186 Bingo Wall E2 5b ** 156
187 Kelly's Eye E4 6a * 43
188 The year of living Dangerously
-
E4 5c 1
189 Mind Blind E6 6b 2
190 The Rainbow Woman
-
E3 6a 1
191 Wallop HS 4b * 28
192 Flavour of the Month
-
E6 6b * 1
193 My Personal Pleasure
-
E6 6c 1
194 Belinda E4 6a * 1
195 Froth VS 4c ** 442
196 Mottled Wall
-
E4 5c 5
197 Mingtled/Mottled Wall E4 5c * 11
198 Dead Banana Crack E1 5c *** 475
199 Top Banana
-
E3 6a 3
200 Bitterfingers E4 6a *** 172
201 The Great Leveller E6 6b  
202 Okra E4 6a * 4
203 Fe Fi Fo Fum HVS 5a * 272
204 Beanstalk E3 5c 5
205 Augean VS 4c * 67
206 Hercules E4 5c 3
207 Sisyphean E4 6a * 2
208 ivy Grotto Direct HVS 5a 3
209 Anything Corner VS 4b 7
210 Mineshaft M * 30
211 Shellfish Shuffle
-
S 4
212 Tantalus HS 4b 9
  Tom's Roof
214 Tom's Original f7A * 223
215 Tom's Original Reverse * f7A 32
216 Tom's Original There and Back * f7A+ ** 24
217 The Womb into Tom's Original * f7A ** 14
218 The Womb f6C * 27
219 Punker Bunker f7A+ ** 71
220 Armbandit f7A+ ** 6
221 Power Allowance f7B ** 54
222 Swing Thing f7C * 34
223 One Summer Problem f7C * 2
224 Quintesscence f8A **  
225 Pete's Power Pull f7C ** 9
226 Power trip * f7C 7
227 You've Pulled * f8A 6
228 Rack and Ruin f7C 5
229 Side Wall Traverse f7C  
230 Harris Problem 2 f7B+ *  
231 Jerryatricks f7C+ * 3
232 Jerry's Problem f7C+ 4
233 PDB problem 12 f7C 1
234 Tom's Roof problem 13 (PDB) f7C 2
235 Figure of 8 f7B+ * 29
236 Let's go round again (fig 8 reverse) * f7C 10
237 Figure of 16 * f7C 9
  Tower of Babel
239 Babylon Bypass
-
HVS 4b 4
240 Glory Road VS 4b * 191
241 Sin VS 4c ** 282
242 Lucy Simmons E2 5b * 85
243 The Tower of Babel
-
E1 5b 33
244 Revulva HVS 5b 2
  Windy Buttress
246 Chantrelle E1 5a 11
247 Black Teddy
-
E2 5c 4
248 Inquisitor E2 5c * 123
249 Tuba Mirum
-
E5 6b * 2
250 Dies Irae E2 5c *** 225
251 Stuff the Turkey E4 6b 3
252 Circe E5 6b ** 52
253 Gaspera E5 6b * 2
254 Swine Vesicular E6 6b  
255 Kink E5 6b ** 13
256 Kinky 7c 1
257 Kellogg E5 6b * 20
258 Nice in Nice E5 6b * 2
259 Kingdom Come E5 6b * 15
260 Special K E4 6a * 17
261 The Flakes Direct E2 5c *** 102
262 The Flakes E2 5c ** 67
263 Armageddon E2 5c *** 219
264 Windhover E2 5c ** 267
265 Transmaiacon
-
E5 6a 2
266 Choss
-
HVS 5b 21
267 Scoop Wall E2 5c *** 427
268 Our Father E4 6b *** 104
269 Menopause E5 6b ** 11
270 Memnon E2 5c * 49
271 Memnon Variation
-
E3 5c 13
272 Racial Harmony
-
E4 5c * 1
273 Aurora VS 4c ** 315
274 Hysterectomy E5 6c  
275 Adios Tango E4 6a * 2
276 Aurora ArĂȘte HVS 5a ** 62
277 Aurora Arete/Tiger Trot HVS 5a ** 125
278 Tiger Trot VD * 45
279 Alcasan E2 5c *** 163
280 Immortal Combat 6b+ 2
  Garage Buttress
282 Fluffy Roo Meets the Woodentops
-
6b+ 1
283 Ticket to the Underworld
-
E4 4a,5c 2
284 Compositae Groove HVS 5a * 56
285 Trigger 7a+ 3
286 Two Ton Ted from Teddington 6b+ 5
287 Knockin' on the Bread Man's Door 6c 7
288 Bohemian 6b+ * 23
289 Empty Cartridge 6b+ * 26
290 Unloaded 6c 15
291 Reloaded 6b+ * 38
292 I Hate You 7a+ * 41
293 Matricide E4 6a 12
294 Matrix E3 5b 3
295 Four Minute Tiler E5 6b * 7
296 Alex It was Nothing Really E5 6b 1
297 La Belle et la Bete E6 6b * 4
298 Colonel Bogey E4 6a ** 30
299 Helicon E3 5c ** 67
300 Rippemoff E1 5c * 81
301 Pullemdown E5 6a *  
302 Chewemoff E4 6a * 10
303 Gerremdown E3 4c,5b ** 5
304 Turf 'em Off 6b+ 15
305 Glue 'em Back 7b 4
306 There Maybe Rubble Ahead 7b 1
307 Rubble Rouser 7c 1
308 Golden Delicious 8a *  
309 Dig Deeper 8a * 4
310 Dig Deep For Victory 7c 10
311 Ozone Bozo 7c * 44
312 Tollbar 8a+ 9
313 Double the Rubble 7c * 3
314 Trouble with Rubble 7c+ * 8
315 The Big Apple 8a * 31
316 The Lover's Leap 7b+ * 2
317 Easy Skanking E6 6b  
318 Little Plum (pitch 1) 7c+ ** 24
319 Little Plum 8a *** 17
320 Big Nose E4 6a 2
321 Ming the Merciless 8a+ * 1
322 The King of Ming (Redundant) 7b+ ** 60
323 Virgin King 7b+ ** 85
324 Virgin on the Loose E6 6b  
325 Smoothlands 6a 60
326 Lowerlands 5c 43
327 Flycatcher E5 6a 2
328 Lowlands 6c+ * 89
329 Dreamcatcher 6b+ * 180
330 Creamsnatcher 6b * 173
331 Gulp and Go 6b+ * 41
332 Evasor VS 4c ** 131
333 Can't Stop Now 6c 41
334 Redeployed 6c+ * 14
335 Up Yours 7a * 17
336 Four Thousand 6b+ * 126
337 Two Thousand 6a+ 73
338 Onwards and Upwards 6a 122
339 Nowt about Change 6b 74
340 End, Stop, Finale 6b 46
341 The Last Stop 5b 41
342 Atropos HVS 5a * 5
343 Aquiline HVS 5b * 16
344 Pendulum HVS 5a ** 69
345 My Girdle is Killing Me
-
E4 6a, 5b 1
  Other Bouldering
347 Rockfax Problem 21(Minus Ten - Right) V1 5c 17
348 Rockfax Problem 22 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V2 6a 20
349 Rockfax Problem 23 (Minus Ten - Right)
-
V4 6b * 11
350 Rockfax Problem 1 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6B 11
351 Rockfax Problem 20 (Minus Ten - Central)
-
f6A 8
352 Rockfax Problem 8 (Minus Ten - Central) (Stoney Middleton)
-
f6C+ 6
353 Odd Thing f7B 9
354 Arete left hand f6A * 5
355 Arete right hand f6C+ * 1
356 Problem 6 f7A 21
357 Problem 13 (Left hand Side) f7A 8
358 Triangular Pockets f6B+ ** 11
  unknown/not in guide/Incorrect, entries
360 RF, Problem 5 f7A ** 1
361 Figure of 24
-
f7C 1
362 Rockfax problem 24 (minus 10 right) f6C 5
363 Problem 7 f7A+ 9
364 Triangle pocket (ukb guide problem 6) f7A 8
365 Problem 8 f7A+ 5
366 Pdb problem 1 central f7B+ * 1
367 Triangle Undercling f6C * 1
368 Diamond Pinch f7C 6
369 Blockhead's Arete f7A+ 8
370 Crimp Shrimp f6B ** 6
371 UKB topo 11. Minus 10 left. f7A 4
372 Left (UKB online topo) f6C 1
373 Problem 11 UKB topo Minus Ten left f6B+ 4
374 Zippy's Sidepull Variant 1 f7C 1
375 Jimmyatricks f7C+ 1
376 Sign My Name E2 5c 9
377 The Brighton Line E1 5b,5b * 2
378 Tony's Bloody Finger E1 5b,5b 2
379 Monosod E2 5c *  
380 Lesley Ann E3 6a 1
381 Canine of Brine E2 5b 1
382 Master of Tides VS 4b 2
383 End of the Line E1 5b 1
384 Tower of Babel indirect E1 5b  
385 The Power Pinch f7C+ 1
386 The Gherkin f7A *** 2
387 Not Zippy's Variant 3 f6C * 1
388 Minus Wall Traverse (rockfax 2014 problem 6) f6B+ 6
389 Tiger Direct VS 4c 1
390 Tiger Traverse HVS 5a  
391 Tiger Groove HS 4a  
392 Has She Been? S 4a 1
393 Mompesson Rich Pickings MVS 4c  
394 Holly HVS 5c  
395 Willow HVS 5c  
396 Problem 12 f6B 1
397 Haven't Got a Cluedo E2 5c * 2
398 Moss Side * E2 5b 1
399 Choss Side * HVS 4c 1
400 Harris Problem 3 *
-
f7B+ 1
401 Blockheads Arete non eliminate * V0+ 5a 1
402 Power Allowance Check * f7B 4
403 Phil 's phigure of 8 (minus ten) * f6C 2
404 Phil 's phigure of 16 (minus ten) * f6C+ 1
405 Phil 's phigure of 24 (minus ten) * f6C+  
406 The Full Reverse * f7A * 2
407 Higherlands
-
6a 1
408 Jambon's Undercut * f7B+ 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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