UKC

Climbs 173
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 110m a.s.l
Faces SE

On the crux of imminent Departees © spidey

Crag features

Many routes in the middle and higher grades up to 100ft in height, a low lying cliff that drys quickly after rain and has much better weather than Snowdonia.

The Great Wall area merited the Ken Wilson treatment in Extreme Rock.

Not to be confused with Craig-y-Forwen which is at a totally different location (Worlds End).

ACCESS;

The BMC have recently negotiated an acccess agreement with the local farmer after a 20 year ban.

Unfortunately, there is no access to the left hand side of the main Cliff area between Human Menagerie and Purple Haze. Plas Newydd has changed hands and the BMC are in negotiations regarding access to this area.

Aside from this, the single biggest issue is the parking.

The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.

It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.

Currently the spot can be sometimes muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime. Please ensure the gate is closed after you.

DO NOT PARK BELOW THE CRAG.

Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.

Defecating, littering and profanity should also be kept to a minimum.

Approach notes

* A new Access Agreement has been negotiated with the local farmer and it is essential that climbers park only in the designated place above the crag.

No access to the field for parking at the moment (23/08/18) Recent problems with the gate being left open. Parking by the little green at the top of the road.



Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road

 

 

Access Advice

The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn is as follows

  •  CENTRAL SECTION- From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze– the previous owner of Plas Newydd Caravan Park has made it be known that HE Did NOT ALLOW ACCESS OVER THE LAND OR ACCESS FOR CLIMBING ON HIS LAND.  He also actively enforceed this restriction on the land that he owns and climbers have been asked to leave by the Police in recent past. As of May 2017 there are new owners and negotiations are underway - please avoid until these negotiations have been finalised.
  • RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, thi ownership of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2016) . The new owners of this section have told the BMC that they are happy for climbers to this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum.  As yet there is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the sitre is an SSSI it would be illeagal to do without formal consent from NRW. 
  • LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
  • Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.

Guidebooks

I'm afraid even the limited new access (as per recent update) looks doubtful. We climbed on the r-hand edge of the crag last week, parked as per BMC guidance and were unobtrusive to the point of silence. Half way up Sangfroid (a legitimate route, as we understood it - outside the central area and beyond the stile, well to the right of Purple Haze) we were forced to lower off after an unseen individual hurled some quite unpleasant sustained abuse at us from below the trees. We left without confrontation, but as a local who started climbing in 1988 and has therefore never climbed on this crag before, it's a pretty distressing state of affairs!
simongwyn - 30/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left-hand Section
2 Cervix S 2
3 Kite D 4
4 Cling HS 4a 11
5 Naughty Bits S 3c 20
6 Beeline Direct VS 4c 23
7 Beeline HS 18
8 Otto VD 14
9 Temptation VD 9
10 King Rat VS 4c 2
11 Claustrophobia M 10
12 Golden Gate D 28
13 Ann S 4a 23
14 Legal Separation E2 5c 2
15 Hugh's Groove E3 5c 2
16 Dyslexic's Delite VS 4c 2
17 Un-named Route 3 HVS 5a 3
18 Heart Attack
-
HS 4b 28
19 Measure for Measure VS 4c 1
20 Un-named Route 4 VD 20
  Spike Driver Buttress
22 Larks A Bumbly Arete HVS 5a 2
23 Larks a Bumbly S 4a * 111
24 The Last Grasp E2 5b * 13
25 Milky Way HS 4b 8
26 Kiwi Direct Start E1 5b 11
27 Kiwi
-
VS 4b 66
28 Spike Driver E2 5c 3
29 Hairline HVS 5a 32
30 Winter's Tale VS 4c 7
31 Abseil groove VD 6
32 Tempest
-
VS 4c 9
33 Plas Newydd Groove
-
VS 4c 47
34 Paul's Wall E1 5b 11
35 Ivy Line HS 4a 7
36 Dave's Wall E2 5c  
37 Arian HS 4b * 63
38 Arian Direct Finish VS 4c 24
39 Arian Superdirect Finish E1 5b 4
40 Arian Direct Start VS 5a 28
41 Sunny City E2 5c 3
42 Whitewash VS 4c 11
43 Gear Freak VS 4c  
  Crunge Buttress
45 Vole VD 16
46 The Cringe E2 5c 8
47 The Crunge E1 5c * 27
48 Extinction Crack VS 4c 22
49 Think Void E2 5c  
50 Chatterley HVS 5a 7
51 Coulombe VS 4c ** 33
52 Moonwalk VS 4c 8
53 Fading Colours E2 5b  
54 The Fox HVS 5a  
55 23 Skidoo E2 5c  
56 Hooter HS 5
57 Scum Bag HVS 5a  
58 Un-named Route 1 HVS 5a  
59 Squatter's Rights HVS 5a  
Climb name Grade
  Main Cliff
61 Human Menagerie E1 5a 9
62 Swinger HVS 5a, 5a 1
63 Knightsbridge
-
VS 16
64 Knightsbridge variation E2 5c 1
65 Pterodactyl HVS 36
66 Banana Moon E3 5c 4
67 The Flue
-
VS 4c * 49
68 One Step Beyond
-
E2 5c 5
69 Snotty Arete
-
E3 5c 1
70 Zig-Zag
-
VD 9
71 Little Neb
-
HVS 5b 10
72 Softly-Softly
-
S 45
73 Y Chimneys
-
HVD 15
74 Yam HVS 5a 2
75 Jungle Love
-
E3 5c 1
76 Imminent Departees E7 6c ** 4
77 Imminent Crisis E5 6b 1
78 Cutter S 4a 5
79 Fido's Redemption
-
HVS 5a, 4c ** 59
80 Jugular Start
-
E1 5b 10
81 High Steppa E5 5c, 6b *  
82 Great Whaler E2 5b, 5c 2
83 Freedom E2 5c *** 53
84 Freedom Direct Start
-
E3 5c **  
85 Mojo E1 5b *** 107
86 Crazy Horses
-
E3 6a ** 4
87 Quick Step E4 6a *** 21
88 Quick Step Direct Finish E4 6b ***  
89 Space Case E6 6b *** 9
90 Great Wall E4 5c *** 110
91 Book of Dreams E4 6a * 2
92 Magnum Opus E5 6a **  
93 High Plains Drifter E3 6a ** 3
94 Demolition VS 4c 3
95 The Texas Shuffle
-
E2 5c, 4b 2
96 Texas Shuffle Direct Start
-
E3 6a  
97 Washington Waltz
-
E2 5b, 4b  
98 Twisting Chimney
-
VS 4c 4
99 The Norman Conquest HVS 5a, 4c 1
100 Neurotic Woodpecker
-
VS 4c 16
101 Street Stroller E1  
102 Scalar Arete
-
E4 6a 5
103 Scalar
-
VS 4c ** 36
104 Scalar Direct Start
-
VS 5a 6
105 Moonwind E5 6b *** 5
106 The Maiden
-
E3 5b, 6a 1
107 Hedera Wall
-
E3 6a 1
108 Ivy Sepulchre VS 24
109 Titus
-
HVS 5a, 4b * 14
110 Wackeroo
-
E2 5b, 5c 11
111 Wackeroo Direct Finish
-
E1 5b 1
112 The Hurting E3 6a 1
113 Mad World
-
E4 6a 1
114 Space Mountain E5 6a *** 29
115 Ash Groove
-
VS 4c 4
116 Sinister Chimney
-
S 4b * 4
117 Savage the Cabbage
-
E1 5b 1
118 Eight-Footed Exercise
-
HVS 5a  
119 The Electric Butterfly
-
VS 4b 3
Climb name Grade
120 Glade Arete
-
VS 5
121 Purple Haze
-
E3 6a 4
122 The Fun House
-
E4 6a ** 1
123 Gone With The Gonads E1 5c 1
124 Thatch
-
S 12
125 Thatcher Traverse HVS 5a 1
126 Stretch
-
VS 4c 10
127 The Space Race
-
E4 5c, 6a 3
128 Burgess Wall
-
E2 5c 35
129 Burgess Wall Right Hand
-
E4 6a, 5c * 5
130 Man Alive Direct Start
-
E3 6a * 3
131 Panorama Direct Start
-
E3 6b *  
132 Panorama
-
E3 6b, 6a * 2
133 Man Alive
-
E1 5b 2
134 The Groan
-
E3 5c, 6a 6
135 The Arete
-
VS 4c 6
136 Square Cut Chimney
-
HS 4c 2
137 Square Cut Chimney Direct Finish
-
HVS 5a *  
138 Duchess
-
HVS 5a * 64
139 Duchess Direct Start HVS 5a * 3
140 Sunset Strip HVS 5a ** 66
141 Sunset Strip Direct Start HVS 4c  
142 Autobahn
-
E3 5c  
143 Route 66 VS 4c ** 100
144 Katie's delight E8 6c *** 1
145 Manhattan
-
E5 6a ** 11
146 Manhattan Left Hand
-
E4 6a * 1
147 Sangfroid
-
HVS 5a ** 62
148 Sangfroid Direct
-
E2 5c 74
149 THe Snake
-
E2 5c, 5c ** 70
150 The Snake Variations
-
E3 5c 2
151 The People Mover
-
E5 6b, 6c 7
152 Stripper
-
S 2
153 Sour Grapes
-
E2 3
154 Di's Delight
-
E2 5b  
155 Top Cat
-
VS 6
156 Zonesthesia E1 5a, 5a 1
  Two Tier Buttress
  Lower Tier
159 Limestone Cowboy
-
S 2
160 Making Memories
-
E2 5c  
161 Making Movies E3 6a * 4
162 Skateaway
-
E3 6a, 5a * 2
163 Eastbound Train
-
HVS 5a 1
164 Rock On
-
S  
165 Face Value
-
VS 4c  
166 Jackdaw Chimney
-
VD 3
167 Romeo
-
VS 4c 1
168 Juliet E1 5b  
169 Amateur Dramatics
-
E2 5c  
  Upper Tier
171 Into The Gap
-
E3 5c  
172 Good Friday Groove
-
E1 5b  
173 Notta Bleck M  
174 Physical Diagnostic E3 6a, 5a  
175 Napalm Sunday E4 6b  
176 The Black Hole E4 5c *  
177 Livingstone, I Presume? E4 6a *  
178 Bush Doctor E2  
179 Bush Rush VS 4b  
180 Electric Avenue
-
E1 5b  

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