Climbs 170
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 110m a.s.l
Faces SE

On the crux of imminent Departees © spidey

Crag features

Many routes in the middle and higher grades up to 100ft in height, a low lying cliff that drys quickly after rain and has much better weather than Snowdonia.

The Great Wall area merited the Ken Wilson treatment in Extreme Rock.

Not to be confused with Craig-y-Forwen which is at a totally different location (Worlds End).

ACCESS;

The BMC have recently negotiated an acccess agreement with the local farmer after a 20 year ban.

Unfortunately, there is no access to the left hand side of the main Cliff area between Human Menagerie and Purple Haze. Plas Newydd has changed hands and the BMC are in negotiations regarding access to this area.

Aside from this, the single biggest issue is the parking.

The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.

It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.

Currently the spot can be sometimes muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime. Please ensure the gate is closed after you.

DO NOT PARK BELOW THE CRAG.

Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.

Defecating, littering and profanity should also be kept to a minimum.

Approach notes

* A new Access Agreement has been negotiated with the local farmer and it is essential that climbers park only in the designated place above the crag.

Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road

Access Advice

The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn is as follows

  •  CENTRAL SECTION- From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze– the previous owner of Plas Newydd Caravan Park has made it be known that HE Did NOT ALLOW ACCESS OVER THE LAND OR ACCESS FOR CLIMBING ON HIS LAND.  He also actively enforceed this restriction on the land that he owns and climbers have been asked to leave by the Police in recent past. As of May 2017 there are new owners and negotiations are underway - please avoid until these negotiations have been finalised.
  • RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, thi ownership of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2016) . The new owners of this section have told the BMC that they are happy for climbers to this section but again strictly no dogs, all litter to be removed and keep noise to a minimum.  As yet there is no permission to remove any vegetation and as the sitre is an SSSI it would be illeagal to do without formal consent from NRW. 
  • LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
  • Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.

Guidebooks

I'm afraid even the limited new access (as per recent update) looks doubtful. We climbed on the r-hand edge of the crag last week, parked as per BMC guidance and were unobtrusive to the point of silence. Half way up Sangfroid (a legitimate route, as we understood it - outside the central area and beyond the stile, well to the right of Purple Haze) we were forced to lower off after an unseen individual hurled some quite unpleasant sustained abuse at us from below the trees. We left without confrontation, but as a local who started climbing in 1988 and has therefore never climbed on this crag before, it's a pretty distressing state of affairs!
simongwyn - 30/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Left Hand Section
2 Cervix S 2
3 Kite D 4
4 Cling HS 4a 10
5 Naughty Bits S 3c 18
6 Beeline Direct VS 4c 20
7 Beeline HS 15
8 Otto VD 13
9 Temptation VD 8
10 King Rat VS 4c 1
11 Claustrophobia M 9
12 Golden Gate D 26
13 Ann S 4a 20
14 Legal Separation E2 5c 2
15 Hugh's Groove E3 5c 2
16 Dyslexic's Delite VS 4c 2
17 Un-named Route 3 HVS 5a 3
18 Heart Attack
-
HS 4b 25
19 Un-named Route 4 VD 15
  Spike Driver Buttress
21 Larks A Bumbly Arete HVS 5a 2
22 Larks a Bumbly S 4a * 95
23 The Last Grasp E2 5b * 12
24 Milky Way HS 4b 7
25 Kiwi Direct Start E1 5b 11
26 Kiwi
-
VS 4b 55
27 Spike Driver E2 5c 3
28 Hairline HVS 5a 20
29 Abseil groove VD 6
30 Tempest
-
VS 4c 6
31 Plas Newydd Groove
-
VS 4c 40
32 Paul's Wall E1 5b 2
33 Ivy Line HS 4a 3
34 Dave's Wall E2 5c  
35 Arian HS 4b * 56
36 Arian Direct Finish VS 4c 24
37 Arian Superdirect Finish E1 5b 4
38 Arian Direct Start VS 5a 27
39 Sunny City E2 5c 3
40 Whitewash VS 4c 10
41 Gear Freak VS 4c  
  Crunge Buttress
43 Vole VD 14
44 The Cringe E2 5c 8
45 The Crunge E1 5c * 27
46 Extinction Crack VS 4c 22
47 Think Void E2 5c  
48 Chatterley HVS 5a 7
49 Coulombe VS 4c ** 29
50 Moonwalk VS 4c 8
51 Fading Colours E2 5b  
52 The Fox HVS 5a  
53 23 Skidoo E2 5c  
54 Hooter HS 5
55 Scum Bag HVS 5a  
56 Un-named Route 1 HVS 5a  
57 Squatter's Rights HVS 5a  
  Main Cliff
59 Human Menagerie E1 5a 10
60 Swinger HVS 5a, 5a 1
61 Knightsbridge
-
VS 16
62 Knightsbridge variation E2 5c 1
63 Pterodactyl HVS 33
64 Banana Moon E3 5c 4
65 The Flue
-
VS 4c * 51
66 One Step Beyond
-
E2 5c 5
67 Snotty Arete
-
E3 5c 1
68 Zig-Zag
-
VD 10
69 Little Neb
-
HVS 5b 8
70 Softly-Softly
-
S 42
71 Y Chimneys
-
HVD 14
72 Yam HVS 5a 2
73 Jungle Love
-
E3 5c 1
74 Imminent Departees E7 6c ** 5
75 Imminent Crisis E5 6b 1
76 Cutter S 4a 5
77 Fido's Redemption
-
HVS 5a, 4c ** 54
78 Jugular Start
-
E1 5b 8
79 High Steppa E5 5c, 6b *  
80 Great Whaler E2 5b, 5c 2
81 Freedom E2 5c *** 50
82 Mojo E1 5b *** 104
83 Crazy Horses
-
E3 6a ** 4
84 Quick Step E4 6a *** 21
85 Quick Step Direct Finish E4 6b ***  
86 Space Case E6 6b *** 10
87 Great Wall E4 5c *** 108
88 Book of Dreams E4 6a * 2
89 Magnum Opus E5 6a **  
90 High Plains Drifter E3 6a ** 3
91 Demolition VS 4c 3
92 The Texas Shuffle
-
E2 5c, 4b 1
93 Texas Shuffle Direct Start
-
E3 6a  
94 Washington Waltz
-
E2 5b, 4b  
95 Twisting Chimney
-
VS 4c 4
96 The Norman Conquest HVS 5a, 4c 1
97 Neurotic Woodpecker
-
VS 4c 15
98 Street Stroller E1  
99 Scalar Arete
-
E4 6a 5
100 Scalar
-
VS 4c ** 31
101 Scalar Direct Start
-
VS 5a 5
102 Moonwind E5 6b *** 7
103 The Maiden
-
E3 5b, 6a 1
104 Hedera Wall
-
E3 6a 1
105 Ivy Sepulchre VS 23
106 Titus
-
HVS 5a, 4b * 14
107 Wackeroo
-
E2 5b, 5c 10
108 Wackeroo Direct Finish
-
E1 5b 1
109 The Hurting E3 6a 1
110 Mad World
-
E4 6a 1
111 Space Mountain E5 6a *** 32
112 Ash Groove
-
VS 4c 4
113 Sinister Chimney
-
S 4b * 3
114 Savage the Cabbage
-
E1 5b 1
115 Eight-Footed Exercise
-
HVS 5a  
116 The Electric Butterfly
-
VS 4b 2
117 Glade Arete
-
VS 5
118 Purple Haze
-
E3 6a 4
119 The Fun House
-
E4 6a **  
120 Gone With The Gonads E1 5c 1
121 Thatch
-
S 12
122 Thatcher Traverse HVS 5a 1
123 Stretch
-
VS 4c 7
124 The Space Race
-
E4 5c, 6a 2
125 Burgess Wall
-
E2 5c 28
126 Burgess Wall Right Hand
-
E4 6a, 5c * 5
127 Man Alive Direct Start
-
E3 6a * 3
128 Panorama Direct Start
-
E3 6b *  
129 Panorama
-
E3 6b, 6a * 2
130 Man Alive
-
E1 5b 2
131 The Groan
-
E3 5c, 6a 6
132 The Arete
-
VS 4c 6
133 Square Cut Chimney
-
HS 4c 2
134 Square Cut Chimney Direct Finish
-
HVS 5a *  
135 Duchess
-
HVS 5a * 47
136 Duchess Direct Start HVS 5a * 3
137 Sunset Strip HVS 5a ** 47
138 Sunset Strip Direct Start HVS 4c  
139 Autobahn
-
E3 5c  
140 Route 66 VS 4c ** 79
141 Katie's delight E8 6c *** 1
142 Manhattan
-
E5 6a ** 11
143 Manhattan Left Hand
-
E4 6a * 1
144 Sangfroid
-
HVS 5a ** 53
145 Sangfroid Direct
-
E2 5c 63
146 THe Snake
-
E2 5c, 5c ** 56
147 The Snake Variations
-
E3 5c 1
148 The People Mover
-
E5 6b, 6c 4
149 Stripper
-
S 2
150 Sour Grapes
-
E2 3
151 Di's Delight
-
E2 5b  
152 Top Cat
-
VS 6
153 Zonesthesia E1 5a, 5a 1
  TWO TIER BUTTRESS
  LOWER TIER
156 Limestone Cowboy
-
S 2
157 Making Memories
-
E2 5c  
158 Making Movies E3 6a * 4
159 Skateaway
-
E3 6a, 5a * 2
160 Eastbound Train
-
HVS 5a 1
161 Rock On
-
S  
162 Face Value
-
VS 4c  
163 Jackdaw Chimney
-
VD 3
164 Romeo
-
VS 4c 1
165 Juliet E1 5b  
166 Amateur Dramatics
-
E2 5c  
  UPPER TIER
168 Into The Gap
-
E3 5c  
169 Good Friday Groove
-
E1 5b  
170 Notta Bleck M  
171 Physical Diagnostic E3 6a, 5a  
172 Napalm Sunday E4 6b  
173 The Black Hole E4 5c *  
174 Livingstone, I Presume? E4 6a *  
175 Bush Doctor E2  
176 Bush Rush VS 4b  
177 Electric Avenue
-
E1 5b  

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