Climbs 170
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 110m a.s.l
Faces SE

On the crux of imminent Departees © spidey

Crag features

Many routes in the middle and higher grades up to 100ft in height, a low lying cliff that drys quickly after rain and has much better weather than Snowdonia.

The Great Wall area merited the Ken Wilson treatment in Extreme Rock.

Not to be confused with Craig-y-Forwen which is at a totally different location (Worlds End).


The BMC have recently negotiated an acccess agreement with the local farmer after a 20 year ban.

Unfortunately, there has now arisen a dispute over ownership of the main Cliff area between Human Menagerie and Purple Haze. Plas Newydd believe their deeds include this part of the crag and they are not prepared to allow climbers onto the crag.

Aside from this, the single biggest issue is the parking.

The landowner is quite clear on the following point - if cars are parked along the road below the crag he will withdraw access again.

It is vital that only the parking space provided at the top of the crag is used. This is accessed via Trawscoad road from the village of Llysfaen.

Currently the spot is fairly muddy. If it seems to be full, either park sensibly in the village and walk, or climb somewhere else for the day. Work to improve the parking spot is planned, please be patient in the meantime.


Finally, be aware that sound really carries in this valley, try to keep a low profile and noise to a minimum.

Defecating, littering and profanity should also be kept to a minimum.

Copies of the Andy Pollitt guide covering Craig Y Forwyn are available directly from Cordee.

Approach notes

* A new Access Agreement has been negotiated with the local farmer and it is essential that climbers park only in the designated place above the crag.

Do not park on the verges off the Issalt Road

Access Advice

The current access situation at Craig y Forwyn is as follows

  •  CENTRAL SECTION- From just West of Staircase Gully (at the route The Fox), where a smooth wire fence reaches the base of the crag, to Purple Haze– the previous owner of Plas Newydd Caravan Park has made it be known that HE Did NOT ALLOW ACCESS OVER THE LAND OR ACCESS FOR CLIMBING ON HIS LAND.  He also actively enforceed this restriction on the land that he owns and climbers have been asked to leave by the Police in recent past. As of May 2017 there are new owners and negotiations are underway - please avoid until these negotiations have been finalised.
  • RIGHT HAND SECTION (from Purple Haze eastwards towards Two-Tier Buttress, thie ownership of this section of the cliff has recently changed (in 2016) .The views of the new land-owners towards allowing access for climbing are not known and this is also being investigated by the BMC.
  • LEFT HAND SECTION (starting from approx. 50 metres left of Staircase Gully, facing the crag to the extreme left side of the crag) -climbing permitted. Formal consent has been obtained to allow the removal of vegetation (ivy and invasive cotoneaster only) from rock-climbs on this section of crag only.
  • Note: The Natural Resources for Wales (NRW) has some concerns about tree clearance and vegetation clearance on and below the crag. The whole crag forms part of an SSSI and the BMC asks climbers not to clear vegetation or improve the path below the crag. Removal or damaging any vegetation without written authority from the NRW and the landowners could lead to criminal proceedings at this site. You should also be aware that sound carries in this valley, so please make every effort not disturb the peace of local residents, i.e. keep your voices down when belaying etc.


I'm afraid even the limited new access (as per recent update) looks doubtful. We climbed on the r-hand edge of the crag last week, parked as per BMC guidance and were unobtrusive to the point of silence. Half way up Sangfroid (a legitimate route, as we understood it - outside the central area and beyond the stile, well to the right of Purple Haze) we were forced to lower off after an unseen individual hurled some quite unpleasant sustained abuse at us from below the trees. We left without confrontation, but as a local who started climbing in 1988 and has therefore never climbed on this crag before, it's a pretty distressing state of affairs!
simongwyn - 30/Jun/09
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Left Hand Section 
2CervixS 2
3KiteD 4
4ClingHS 4a 8
5Naughty BitsS 3c 17
6Beeline DirectVS 4c 18
7BeelineHS 14
8OttoVD 11
9TemptationVD 7
10King RatVS 4c 1
11ClaustrophobiaM 9
12Golden GateD 25
13AnnS 4a 16
14Legal SeparationE2 5c 1
15Hugh's GrooveE3 5c 1
16Dyslexic's DeliteVS 4c 2
17Un-named Route 3HVS 5a 3
18Heart Attack
HS 4b 22
19Un-named Route 4VD 14
 Spike Driver Buttress 
21Larks A Bumbly AreteHVS 5a 2
22Larks a BumblyS 4a *87
23The Last GraspE2 5b *12
24Milky WayHS 4b 7
25Kiwi Direct StartE1 5b 11
VS 4b 53
27Spike DriverE2 5c 1
28HairlineHVS 5a 18
29Abseil grooveVD 6
VS 4c 6
31Plas Newydd Groove
VS 4c 38
32Paul's WallE1 5b 2
33Ivy LineHS 4a 3
34Dave's WallE2 5c  
35ArianHS 4b *51
36Arian Direct FinishVS 4c 24
37Arian Superdirect FinishE1 5b 4
38Arian Direct StartVS 5a 27
39Sunny CityE2 5c 3
40WhitewashVS 4c 10
41Gear FreakVS 4c  
 Crunge Buttress 
43VoleVD 14
44The CringeE2 5c 8
45The CrungeE1 5c *25
46Extinction CrackVS 4c 22
47Think VoidE2 5c  
48ChatterleyHVS 5a 7
49CoulombeVS 4c **23
50MoonwalkVS 4c 8
51Fading ColoursE2 5b  
52The FoxHVS 5a  
5323 SkidooE2 5c  
54HooterHS 5
55Scum BagHVS 5a  
56Un-named Route 1HVS 5a  
57Squatter's RightsHVS 5a  
 Main Cliff 
59Human MenagerieE1 5a 9
60SwingerHVS 5a, 5a 1
VS 15
62Knightsbridge variationE2 5c 1
63PterodactylHVS 31
64Banana MoonE3 5c 4
65The Flue
VS 4c *49
66One Step Beyond
E2 5c 5
67Snotty Arete
E3 5c 1
VD 10
69Little Neb
HVS 5b 7
S 40
71Y Chimneys
HVD 14
72YamHVS 5a 1
73Jungle Love
E3 5c  
74Imminent DeparteesE7 6c **3
75Imminent CrisisE5 6b 1
76CutterS 4a 3
77Fido's Redemption
HVS 5a, 4c **50
78Jugular Start
E1 5b 5
79High SteppaE5 5c, 6b * 
80Great WhalerE2 5b, 5c 2
81FreedomE2 5c ***44
82MojoE1 5b ***98
83Crazy Horses
E3 6a **3
84Quick StepE4 6a ***18
85Quick Step Direct FinishE4 6b *** 
86Space CaseE6 6b ***8
87Great WallE4 5c ***79
88Book of DreamsE4 6a *1
89Magnum OpusE5 6a ** 
90High Plains DrifterE3 6a **3
91DemolitionVS 4c 3
92The Texas Shuffle
E2 5c, 4b 1
93Texas Shuffle Direct Start
E3 6a  
94Washington Waltz
E2 5b, 4b  
95Twisting Chimney
VS 4c 4
96The Norman ConquestHVS 5a, 4c 1
97Neurotic Woodpecker
VS 4c 13
98Street StrollerE1  
99Scalar Arete
E4 6a 4
VS 4c **30
101Scalar Direct Start
VS 5a 5
102MoonwindE5 6b ***2
103The Maiden
E3 5b, 6a 1
104Hedera Wall
E3 6a 1
105Ivy SepulchreVS 19
HVS 5a, 4b *13
E2 5b, 5c 9
108Wackeroo Direct Finish
E1 5b 1
109The HurtingE3 6a 1
110Mad World
E4 6a 1
111Space MountainE5 6a ***17
112Ash Groove
VS 4c 4
113Sinister Chimney
S 4b *3
114Savage the Cabbage
E1 5b  
115Eight-Footed Exercise
HVS 5a  
116The Electric Butterfly
VS 4b 2
117Glade Arete
VS 4
118Purple Haze
E3 6a 3
119The Fun House
E4 6a ** 
120Gone With The GonadsE1 5c 1
S 10
122Thatcher TraverseHVS 5a 1
VS 4c 7
124The Space Race
E4 5c, 6a 2
125Burgess Wall
E2 5c 26
126Burgess Wall Right Hand
E4 6a, 5c *5
127Man Alive Direct Start
E3 6a *1
128Panorama Direct Start
E3 6b * 
E3 6b, 6a *2
130Man Alive
E1 5b 2
131The Groan
E3 5c, 6a 4
132The Arete
VS 4c 6
133Square Cut Chimney
HS 4c 2
134Square Cut Chimney Direct Finish
HVS 5a * 
HVS 5a *35
136Duchess Direct StartHVS 5a *2
137Sunset StripHVS 5a **41
138Sunset Strip Direct StartHVS 4c  
E3 5c  
140Route 66VS 4c **63
141Katie's delightE8 6c ***1
E5 6a **10
143Manhattan Left Hand
E4 6a * 
HVS 5a **49
145Sangfroid Direct
E2 5c 56
146THe Snake
E2 5c, 5c **48
147The Snake Variations
E3 5c 1
148The People Mover
E5 6b, 6c 4
S 2
150Sour Grapes
E2 3
151Di's Delight
E2 5b  
152Top Cat
VS 6
153ZonesthesiaE1 5a, 5a 1
156Limestone Cowboy
S 2
157Making Memories
E2 5c  
158Making MoviesE3 6a *3
E3 6a, 5a *1
160Eastbound Train
HVS 5a 1
161Rock On
162Face Value
VS 4c  
163Jackdaw Chimney
VD 3
VS 4c 1
165JulietE1 5b  
166Amateur Dramatics
E2 5c  
168Into The Gap
E3 5c  
169Good Friday Groove
E1 5b  
170Notta BleckM  
171Physical DiagnosticE3 6a, 5a  
172Napalm SundayE4 6b  
173The Black HoleE4 5c * 
174Livingstone, I Presume?E4 6a * 
175Bush DoctorE2  
176Bush RushVS 4b  
177Electric Avenue
E1 5b  

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