Climbs 69
Rocktype Dolerite
Altitude Tidal
Faces S

View Stats

Pain Pillar © Lawrie Brand

Crag features

This sea-cliff is easily accessed from Aberdour and offers a good number of middle-grade climbs. It faces south, dries quickly and is very popular on summer evenings.
Best Route : Pain Pillar VS 4c

June 2017 - Take care at the west end of the crag where there has been recent rock fall on Fish Head Arete & Cranium Crack

Approach notes

Tidal
Beware of nesting seas birds during the summer months.
Only the west end of the crag is accessible during high-tide.

The two belay bolts at the top of the crag are loose (cranium crack area). I've not noticed them before, although not been for a couple of years. Seem to have been poorly installed too with washers used to pack out between bolt head and hanger. I would suggest whoever put them in remove or replace.
scoth - 25/Jun/18
Hi Mike. Look carefully further back towards the fence. You might find something useful.
Hay - 14/Jun/14
Be careful with the belay at the top of Pain Pillar. One of the fins of rock has been removed and there doesn't seem to be much holding in another one!
Mike-W-99 - 17/Apr/14
Noticed yesterday that the two bolts at the top have been removed which makes setting up belays more tricky. Any ideas why?
CyberTaff - 15/Sep/13
Please careful when belaying off the tree at the top of Asinine/The Lily/Gunga Din etc as one of the branches has been sawn through and is no longer attached. Make sure you attached yourself to the solid branch!!!
Fiona Reid - 25/Apr/13
the bottom of the crag is dry from ~3 hours either side of low tide. If the tide is higher the choice is between an exciting traverse in, or the shorter routes at either end.
ligaya - 09/Jul/07
Asinine is every bit as good as Pain Pillar, but not 5a.
Jamie B. - 11/Sep/05
yip this crag is first class. you can even try deep water soloing in the summer months if your mad enough
maximus altitudus - 27/Dec/04
...I forgot to mention the bakery in Aberdour - simply a special place...
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
The best crag in Eastern Scotland for access by public transport, and very amenable for the biginner. The whole place feels very friendly, with good holds, protection and surprisingly rough rock. The place also has a great outlook, and routes are very enjoyable - not just Pain Pillar. The VS and HVS lines are very good, Guano would be a good first HVS lead, and the climbs out of the alcove on the west of the crag are lovely, Cranium Crack. The crag can catch the wind, but can also be sunny when Edinburgh isn't.
Reuben - 17/Mar/03
Excellent climbing in the middle grades but can be loose in places so caution required.
Rooster - 25/Jan/03
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Cutglass Corner
-
S 1
2 Doo'cot Wall
-
VD 1
3 Fish Head Arete VD * 699
4 Fish Head Wall VD 189
5 Fish Head Wall (Direct Finish) S 85
6 Ugh! HS * 553
7 Sacrilege HVS 5a 28
8 Eech
-
VS 4b * 226
9 Squirrel Slab VS 5a * 293
10 Weasel Wall E2 5c 19
11 Garlic Bread E2 6a 4
12 Pizza E2 5c 4
13 Cranium Crack VS 4c, 4c * 286
14 Conquistador Crack VS 5a * 187
15 The Groper HVS 5a 44
16 Stomach Ache VS 4b * 180
17 The Beast HS 4c 167
18 Gismo Direct HVS 5a * 76
19 Gismo VS 4c * 173
20 Pain Pillar VS 4c *** 1432
21 Gaucho Direct HVS 5a ** 57
22 Gaucho HVS 5a ** 543
23 Psylocible
-
E2 5a 2
Climb name Grade
24 Rebel's Groove VS 5a * 165
25 Saki VS 4c * 318
26 Short Circuit VS 5a * 33
27 Slack Alice
-
HS 154
28 Brutus
-
HS 93
29 Popeye
-
E1 5a 1
30 Torment
-
HS 41
31 The Dwarf E1 5b * 29
32 Guano Variation
-
E2 5b 11
33 Guano VS 5a ** 523
34 Ganja
-
VD 270
35 The Chimney
-
VD 156
36 The Chimney Direct Finish S 46
37 Chimney Arete
-
VD 118
38 Asinine VS 5a ** 654
39 The Arete HVS 5a 73
40 The Lilly S ** 869
41 Gunga Din S ** 621
42 Crusader
-
HS 109
43 Saracen VS 4c * 361
44 Toerag's Wall (Direct Start) HVS 5a * 116
45 Toerag's Wall S 324
46 Hip Replacement E1 5b 5
Climb name Grade
47 Diptera VS 4c 106
48 Escalator
-
VD * 396
49 Tink
-
S 106
50 Aaron's Way
-
S 18
51 Hallelujah Wall
-
HS * 704
52 Rib and Groove
-
HS 33
53 The Whang
-
D * 162
54 Flake and Wall
-
S * 372
55 Flake and Wall (Direct Finish)
-
S * 61
56 Five o'clock Shadow Arete
-
HVS 5a 3
57 Guillemot Head Mush
-
VS 5a 10
58 Shadow Corner
-
S 118
59 Destiny Groove
-
S * 296
60 The Dreeping Beak
-
E1 5c 29
61 Urmi VS 4c * 195
62 Maureen S 203
63 Welly Wall
-
VD 284
64 Serendipity HVS 5a 36
65 Eureka VS 5a * 292
66 Where Were You?
-
E2 5b 17
67 Termination
-
VS 4c 64
68 The Low Girdle VS 4c * 77
69 The High Girdle
-
HVS 5b * 30

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Mike-W-99