Climbs 444
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

James pulling through the final moves of rubicon. © rockjedi

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Peak Bouldering

The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.
More info

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Vision Buttress
2 Sunshine Super Frog
-
E6 6c 1
3 The Vision
-
E6 6c ** 3
4 Knocked Out Loaded
-
E6 6c ** 1
5 Agrippa's Knees
-
E6 6b 1
  Jackdaw Point
7 Ground Control E1 5b 3
8 Skyline Pigeon
-
E5 6b  
9 Armed With an Empty Gun E4 6a * 2
10 Erithacus E2 5b * 39
11 Army Dreamers E2 5c * 34
12 Final Sacrifice E1 5b 1
13 Fledgling Flakes HVS 5b * 24
14 Burning Up Time E3 6a * 20
15 Nervous and Shaky E4 6a  
16 Fledgling VS 4c 11
17 Trial Run
-
VS 4c 2
18 First Flight HVS 5a 7
19 Palmolive E1 5c * 28
20 Endless Flight E2 5c * 25
21 Fear of Flying E2 5b * 31
22 Flight Path VS 4b 4
23 Victory Roll
-
VS 4c 3
24 Capricorn One E3 5c * 1
  Upper Circle
26 Hesitation Dance
-
E5 6a  
27 Specialist E4 6c  
28 Pragma 8a+ *  
29 Eat the Rich 7c * 21
30 Three Spheres 8b ** 2
31 The Inch Test 8a+ ** 7
32 Psychic Emulator E3 6b  
33 Splinter in the Mind's Eye E2 6b 2
34 Sweet William E2 5c * 8
35 Western Samoa E4 6b 1
36 Dead Tree Groove E2 5c * 22
37 Zatopek E3 6a  
38 Palace of Tyranny E1 5b 1
39 Trench Warfare E2 5b 1
40 Sweet FA E1 5b 3
41 Dead Tree Crack E1 5b * 13
42 Reptar on Ice
-
E1 5b 1
43 Christmas Cracks
-
VS 4c 10
44 Euroman
-
HVS 5a 6
45 Looking Good
-
E4 6a  
46 Nidhšgg Loves Jormungand
-
E3 6a  
47 Second Nature E3 5c  
48 Adios Matlock E3 6a  
49 Cicatrix HVS 5a 2
50 Lost Tribes E3 5c * 1
51 Going Bush
-
E5 6c  
  Ping Pong Area
53 Jungle Jim
-
E2 5b 1
54 Tree Dweller's Crack
-
E3 6a  
55 Deception E4 6a ** 24
56 Rio Verde E4 6b * 5
57 Confidence Trick 7b+  
58 Matto Grosso Chimney
-
VS 4c 1
59 Mandrake E5 6a ** 11
60 Chistiliano Wall
-
E4 6b  
61 Marsh Dweller's Rib
-
E3 6a  
62 The Ponger VS 4b 2
63 Ping HVS 5b ** 111
64 Ping Pong E1 5b ** 97
65 Desmond Douglas E2 5c * 19
66 Pong
-
E1 5b 7
67 The Creative Urge
-
HVS 5b 1
68 Virgin's Crack
-
VS 4b 15
69 Sour Grapes E1 6a 3
70 Stupid Cupid E3 5c * 1
  Psyche's Buttress
72 The Arrow S 5
73 Summons
-
E4 5c  
74 Nappy Squad
-
E5 6b  
75 Dreams of Leaving
-
E2 5c  
76 Love is the Drug
-
6c+ 2
77 The Still Small Voice
-
E3 5c ** 4
78 Strip Search
-
E2 5c  
79 Bow String Groove
-
VS 8
80 Early One Morning
-
E2 5b,5c 1
81 The Keep
-
S 8
82 The Fairy
-
D 4
83 Finders Keepers f7A 5
84 Keepie Uppie f7B 4
85 Keep Off The Grass f7C 2
86 Mini Fingerblaster f7B 2
87 Keep away f7C 1
88 Monumental fingerblaster f7B ** 2
  Lammergeyer Buttress
90 Zob
-
E2 6a  
91 Part-time Hobby
-
E2 5b  
92 Recycle or Die 6b+ 6
93 Aquarian Warriors E5 6b 1
94 The Lammergeyer Twins E5 6b 1
95 As Summers Die 7a+ 7
96 Easy's gettin' harder 7c * 3
97 One Way Reflection 7a * 22
98 Pinch an Inch 7b+ * 9
99 Final Apocalypse 7a+ * 33
100 Mr. Puniverse 7a+ 8
101 The Myth of Masculinity 7a+ 1
102 The Ego has Landed 7b+ 2
103 The Amnicolist Spies on the Black Submarine E5 6b 1
104 Hard Torque 8a+ ** 10
105 Living with a Porcupine 7a 6
106 Tree Surgeon 7b 7
107 Once upon a Time 7a+ 6
108 The Fall 8a ** 11
109 Vindicator 7c+ ** 30
110 SkyFall 7c+ * 9
  Rubicon - Left
112 Alimoany 7b+ 7
113 The Honeymoon Is Over 7c 4
114 Decree Nici 7b+ 9
115 Second honeymoon 7a 7
116 Honeymoon Blues E5 6b * 10
117 Salar 8a * 27
118 Slapin 7c * 17
119 Slapdasher 7a * 37
120 Lapin E3 5c 10
121 Welsh Rarebit 6b+ * 61
122 Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
-
E3 5c  
123 The Brer Faced Cheek of It
-
6a 12
124 Hare E3 5c 1
125 Changing Fortunes E4 6b 1
126 Chairs Missing E4 6b * 9
127 A Tall Story E5 6c * 1
128 Dragonflight E3 5c ** 83
129 The Dragon Flight Traverse f6A+ * 57
130 Jezebel E5 6a ** 11
131 Kingfisher E5 6c * 3
132 Jaws E5 6b * 9
133 Plectrum Maxilla Direct E7 6c *  
134 Barracuda 8b * 2
135 Barracuda Start f7C+ * 1
136 Caviar 8a+ *** 26
137 Caviar Start f7B * 22
138 Beluga 8a+ * 5
139 Eugenics 8b+  
140 Let the Tribe Increase 8a * 18
141 Dangerous Tribes 8a * 2
142 The Dangerous Brothers 8a ** 22
143 Too Old to be Bold 7c * 96
144 Coot E4 6a 11
145 Piranha E6 6b *** 11
146 Piranha Start f7A * 48
147 Piranha Traverse f7A+ * 6
148 Cora E6 6c * 2
149 White Bait E5 6c ** 9
150 White Bait (start) f6C 32
151 Flake Out Shake Out E4 6c  
152 Bigger splash direct into kudos reverse.
-
f7C+ 1
  Kudos Wall
154 A Miller's Tale E5 6b ** 16
155 A Miller's Tale Start f6B+ ** 457
Climb name Grade
156 Miller's Tail Eliminate (avoid holds on R) f6C+ 13
157 Kudos f7B ** 198
158 Kudos Original f7C * 17
159 Kudos - the Hard Way f7B * 29
160 Kudos Hard Way Sit Start f7B+ 4
161 Kudos Sit Start f7B+ * 16
162 Kudos Original Sit Start f7C+ 3
163 Kudos traverse
-
f7B ** 62
164 The Pinch f7B+ * 4
165 Hot Fun Closing 8a ** 47
166 A Bigger Tail f7A ** 231
167 Johnny G 7C f7C 10
168 A Bigger Tail (route) 7b+ ** 72
169 A Bigger Tail Stand Start f7C * 1
170 A Bigger Belly f8B *  
171 The Press f7B+ ** 81
172 The Press - Kneeling Start f7C+ * 10
173 The Press - Low Right Start f8A ** 5
174 The Press - Low Left Start f8A+ ** 4
175 A Bigger Splash f7A+ * 120
176 A Bigger Splash Direct f7B *** 177
177 Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Start f7C ** 23
178 Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Start f7C ** 7
179 A bigger splash direct kneeling - kudos reverse f8A 1
180 A Bigger Prize f6B+ ** 281
181 Tsunami f8A ** 24
182 Tsunamish f7C+ * 3
183 Dancing Fish f8A ** 5
184 Dancing Fish Standing f7B *** 20
185 Peg's Path Right f6B 5
  Rubicon - Right
187 Water Baliff
-
HVS 4c 6
188 Freewheeler
-
HVS 4c 3
189 The Terror of the Seven Seas 7c * 12
190 Professor Kirk 7b+ * 14
191 Maureen 6c+ 5
192 Point of no return 6c 13
193 Last But Not Least 7a * 61
194 Trunk of Punk 7a 25
195 Sperm Worm
-
E5 6a 1
196 Dumb Animal
-
E5 6a  
197 The Pinch Test 7c+ * 6
198 The Angler E6 6c * 14
199 The Wimp 7c * 19
200 The Wussy 8a 1
201 The Sissy 8a * 62
202 Zeke the Freak 8b *** 31
203 The Bastard 8c+ **  
204 Truely Awesome 7a+ * 30
205 Rubicon 7a *** 679
206 Rubicon Start f4+ 51
207 Left Flank f5 23
208 Zeitgeist 7b * 88
209 No Jug, No Thug E5 6b * 2
210 Cruising the Seven Seas E6 6b *  
211 The Bomb is Coming 7a * 17
212 Direct Hit 7b 5
213 Toenail Left f6A+ 135
214 Toenail Pie E2 5b 26
215 Toenail Pie Start f5 * 266
216 Debris
-
E4 5c 4
217 Debris Groove f6A * 129
218 The Debris Dyno f6C ** 40
219 Crimps and Pockets f6B+ 162
220 Peg's Path f6B 151
221 Peg's Right f6B * 43
222 Sharp Pockets f5+ * 197
223 Warm-up Traverse f4+ 304
224 Low Break f6B+ ** 133
225 Middle Break f6A * 222
226 Top Break f5+ * 239
227 Three tier test piece f7B * 11
228 Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
-
E3 6c 3
229 Approach Traverse f7A ** 49
230 Small But Perfectly Formed 7a+ 27
231 Full Traverse Rubicon * f7C ** 1
  Waterfall buttress
233 Rapture 7b ** 2
234 In the Flesh 7a * 7
235 Looking For Diversion 7c+ * 2
  Moat Buttress
237 Nude Moatorcycle Girl 7a 5
238 Out of the Shadows 7b * 4
239 Another Moatside Attraction 7a+ * 6
240 Moat Madness
-
E5 6b * 1
241 Sheer Power E5 6b  
242 Sheerwater E1 5b * 5
243 Dam It 6c+ * 5
244 The Lady of the Lake 7a+ * 16
245 D.T.'s Route
-
E5 6b 1
246 Garderobe 7b+ ** 52
247 Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks 7c 21
248 King Arthritis 7b+ ** 37
249 Excalibur 7b+ ** 58
250 No Mud, No Thud 7b+ 17
251 A Bigger Thud 7c * 21
252 A Bigger Splat 7a * 55
253 Let the Tripe Increase 7c ** 67
254 Over the Moorhens 7b+ * 22
255 Lemmy at it 7b+ 3
256 All Hands to the Pump 7c+ 2
257 Moatorhead 7b+ ** 100
258 Airhead 7c 1
259 Coming up for Air 7c * 85
260 Moat People 7b+ ** 261
261 Moat Afloat 7a 23
262 Afloat in the Moat 6c+ * 384
263 Castaway 6c+ 115
264 Piranha Wall E4 3
265 Triton E4 5c 6
266 Jaws ll E5 6b  
267 The Flying Dutchman E6 6c *  
268 Two Sheep to Leicester 7a+ * 37
269 Searching for the Yeti 7b * 15
270 Moat Wall E5 3
271 Moat Race 6c+ 5
272 Moat Puddings E5 2
273 Castle Puddings 6b+ 5
274 Ha -Ha it's Billy no mats 7b+ **  
275 Against the current 8c ** 1
  Moat/Majorca Bouldering
277 Pinch Punch (Left Hand) f6C 1
278 Pinch Punch f7A 6
279 Tiger Style f7A 7
280 Uptown Top Ranking f7B 5
281 Jacobs' Cracker f7C 3
  Majorca Crunch Buttress
283 You Got No Reason 7a 7
284 Rhyme Crime 7a+ 3
285 Who got Rhyme 6c 13
286 Rhyme and Reason 6c * 48
287 Reserve Judgement 7a 19
288 Happy Days 6c+ * 16
289 Oh Dear! 6c+ * 46
290 Four Men Tour 6c * 76
291 Val de Mossa 6c+ 16
292 Blanca Expression 7a * 8
293 The Majorca Alternative 7a+ * 31
294 Costa del Jolly 7a * 25
295 Wish you were here 6b 37
296 Do I? 6b+ 20
297 Mission Impossible 8a+ * 1
298 Karma Killer 8b ** 3
299 Agent Provocateur 8a+ ** 14
300 Secret Agent 8a+ * 1
301 Perfecto 7c+ 1
302 Trainer Tamer 7b+ 2
303 Breakbeat 8a *  
304 One on One 7a+ 1
305 Under Western Eyes E5 6b  
  Swamp Wall
307 Dappled
-
4a 5
308 Hombre
-
5c 13
309 Condom Nations
-
6b 14
310 Land Nodule
-
6a+ 12
Climb name Grade
311 King Kane
-
5a 14
312 Friday Club
-
6a+ 14
313 Anyday Club
-
6a 6
314 Spiraling Out 6b+ 2
315 The Power Grab 7a+ 1
316 Yard Sale
-
7a+  
317 Helter Skelter
-
6c+  
318 Margins of My Mind
-
6b+ 2
319 Swamp Fever
-
7a+  
320 Tsetse Piece
-
7a+  
321 Gnat Attack
-
7a  
322 One Greenbottle
-
7a+  
323 Bluebottle Life
-
6c  
  The Cornice
325 Alpha Groove
-
VD  
326 Sting in the Tail
-
E4 6a  
327 Puffy White Flesh
-
E2 6a  
328 Crystalline
-
S 1
329 The Gully 1933
-
S 4b 2
330 Bandwagon on Direction
-
E5 6a  
331 The Bulge 1984 E5 6b 4
332 The Thatcher Years
-
E5 6b 16
333 Nothing to Help the Poor E5 6b 1
334 The Workhouse 7a+ 3
335 Poorlaw
-
6c+ 1
336 A Major Moment
-
6c+ 25
337 Supplementary Benefit
-
7a+ 14
338 Incapacity Benefit 7a+ ** 176
339 The Dole 1989 7c * 19
340 Yorkshire 8b 8a * 5
341 Ape Index 8b+ * 3
342 The Weakling 7c+ ** 6
343 Brachiation Dance 7b+ *** 256
344 The Free Monster 8a *** 103
345 The Auctioneer 8a+ *** 12
346 Rumble in the Jungle 8a+ *** 28
347 Monsterosity 8b *** 8
348 Albatrossity 8a+ *** 10
349 Superfly 8a+ ** 1
350 Eclipsed 8a+ ** 1
351 The Disillusioned Glue Machine 8a ** 12
352 Empire Burlesque 7c+ * 7
353 The Nasty Man 7c * 3
354 Goldcrest 8a * 3
355 Sirius 7c+ * 2
356 Atilla the Hun 7a+ 5
357 Catch the Rainbow 6c 34
358 Superocity 8a+ ** 1
359 Barbarossity 8a+ ** 4
360 Releasable Abseil 1 * 1
  Two Tier Buttress
362 Tierfull
-
6b 5
363 My Tiers led up to This
-
6b * 12
364 Tiery Henry
-
6b * 15
365 Under-Tiered
-
6c * 9
  Witchcraft Wall
367 Spellbound
-
HVS 5c 2
368 Witchcraft Wall
-
E3 6b  
369 Belladonna
-
7b+ * 7
370 Sabbra Cadabra 6c+ * 2
371 Black Sabbath
-
HVS 5b  
372 Let Rip 7b  
373 Vicar's Vertigo
-
E1 5b 12
374 Sermon Wall
-
VS 2
375 Ringleader E1 5c * 1
376 Confusion
-
E3 6b 1
377 Ribcrusher Crack
-
VS 5a 3
378 White Riot E4 6a * 1
  Central Buttress
380 Ringing Chimney
-
D 2
381 Tiddle-de-Dum 6c 4
382 Te Deum E3 5b  
383 Hammy Hamster's Last Rites E3 5c * 5
384 Chiming Crack E4 6a * 5
385 Dangerous Liaisons 7b+ * 1
386 Hemmingway's Horror E2 5c * 11
387 Carillon Crack E3 5c * 7
388 Silent Storm E5 6a * 1
389 Carol's Crack E3 5c * 10
390 The Importance of Being Ernest E4 6a  
391 The Bellringer E2 5c 14
392 It Tolls for Thee 6c+ * 26
393 Vapour Stream 7a+ * 16
394 La Belle Age E5 6b * 5
395 En Masse Descendre E6 6b * 3
396 In Bulk E6 6b ** 9
397 Leviathan E5 6b * 7
398 St. Paul
-
E3 5c * 44
399 St. Paul Direct E3 6a * 9
400 Paulliac 7c ** 5
401 Behemoth E5 6b *** 35
402 That'll Do Nicely E5 6b 3
403 Yankee Dollar
-
E5 6b 1
404 The Treadmill 7b * 17
405 Fort Knox E5 6a 2
406 Fort Knox Direct 7b * 4
407 The Troll E3 6a 11
408 Crumbling Cracks HVS 4b 5
409 Squatter's Rights HVS 4c  
410 My Fickle Resolve 6c+ * 48
411 Une Jour Parfait 7b * 7
412 Warhead 6c 7
413 Fire on Water 7b+ ** 6
414 The Alien E4 6b *** 50
415 Aliens E6 6c * 1
416 White Fright
-
E6 6b *  
417 Knuckle Knocker E3 5c * 21
418 War E5 6a 9
419 Freedom is Insane 7a * 72
420 Hairy Legs E3 6a 6
421 Aftervision E2 5c 2
422 Deja Vu 6c * 27
423 Heatwave HVS 5a 1
424 No Chains on Me 6c+ * 39
425 The Chain Gang 6c+ * 26
426 The Chain Gang (Trad) 6c+ * 1
427 Escape Artist 7a+ * 12
428 Cool Hand Luke E5 6b 9
429 Disparagement/Epithet 7a+ * 6
430 Disparagement (Trad) E5 6a 2
431 The Rocky Horror Picture Show: Let's Do the Time Warp Again 7c ** 1
432 Time Warp (Trad) E4 6b 1
433 Fatal Attraction 7a+ ** 41
434 Fatal Hesitation 7b+ * 4
435 Sox E5 6a * 4
436 La Brute 7a * 44
437 La Chute E5 6b ** 8
438 La Route 7a * 36
439 Coldity Groove E3 5c 5
440 Coldity Crack E1 5b 10
441 C'est Plastique 6c 91
442 Plastic Wonder VS 4c  
443 Plastic Blinkers HVS 5b  
444 Gwendoline HVS 5a 4
445 Orient route D  
446 Dis-orientated 6b+ 7
447 Strange Beings E5 6b * 2
448 Fools Rush In
-
E1 5c 3
  Mill Buttress
450 Top Tips E3 6a ** 1
451 Tip Toe Wall HVS 5a 3
452 Crepitus 7a+ * 5
453 Sonorous 6c * 7
454 Yukon Groove VD * 1
455 Mill Street Blues 6c+ * 8
456 Scoopy Little Number E2 5b * 4
457 Inner Laugh 7b * 2
458 Novelty E3 6b 1
459 Ten Stretch 6b+ 2
460 One Way Stretch E4 6b * 3
461 Hollow Way 6c+ * 2
462 Resin Erection Shuffle E1 5b * 3
463 Black Lurcher 7b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers kristian and Stoney Boy