Climbs 377
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

Rubicon wall © Ryan83

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Vision Buttress 
2Sunshine Super Frog
-
E6 6c 1
3The Vision
-
E6 6c **2
4Knocked Out Loaded
-
E6 6c **1
5Agrippa's Knees
-
E6 6b  
 Jackdaw Point 
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline Pigeon
-
E5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE2 5b *33
11Army DreamersE2 5c *29
12Final SacrificeE1 5b 1
13Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b *20
14Burning Up TimeE3 6a *15
15Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
16FledglingVS 4c 11
17Trial Run
-
VS 4c 2
18First FlightHVS 5a 5
19PalmoliveE1 5c *22
20Endless FlightE2 5c *20
21Fear of FlyingE2 5b *27
22Flight PathVS 4b 3
23Victory Roll
-
VS 4c 2
 Upper Circle 
25Hesitation Dance
-
E5 6a  
26SpecialistE4 6c  
27Pragma8a+ * 
28Eat the Rich7c *17
29Three Spheres8b **4
30The Inch Test8a+ **8
31Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
32Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
33Sweet WilliamE2 5c *5
34Western SamoaE4 6b 1
35Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *18
36Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
37Trench WarfareE2 5b  
38Sweet FAE1 5b 1
39Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *10
40Reptar on Ice
-
E1 5b  
41Christmas Cracks
-
VS 4c 9
42Euroman
-
HVS 5a 5
43Looking Good
-
E4 6a  
44Nidhgg Loves Jormungand
-
E3 6a  
45CicatrixHVS 5a 2
46Going Bush
-
E5 6c  
 Ping Pong Area 
48Jungle Jim
-
E2 5b 1
49Tree Dweller's Crack
-
E3 6a  
50DeceptionE4 6a **22
51Rio VerdeE4 6b *4
52Confidence Trick7b+  
53Matto Grosso Chimney
-
VS 4c 1
54MandrakeE5 6a **8
55Chistiliano Wall
-
E4 6b  
56Marsh Dweller's Rib
-
E3 6a  
57The PongerVS 4b 1
58PingHVS 5b **85
59Ping PongE1 5b **75
60Desmond DouglasE2 5c *14
61Pong
-
E1 5b 4
62The Creative Urge
-
HVS 5b  
63Virgin's Crack
-
VS 4b 12
64Sour GrapesE1 6a 2
65Unnamed *E3 5c *1
 Psyche's Buttress 
67The ArrowS 1
68Summons
-
E4 5c  
69Nappy Squad
-
E5 6b  
70Dreams of Leaving
-
E2 5c  
71Love is the Drug
-
6c+ 2
72The Still Small Voice
-
E3 5c **3
73Strip Search
-
E2 5c  
74Bow String Groove
-
VS 4
75Early One Morning
-
E2 5b,5c 1
76The Keep
-
S 4
77The Fairy
-
D 1
 Lammergeyer Buttress 
79Zob
-
E2 6a  
80Part-time Hobby
-
E2 5b  
81Aquarian Warriors
-
E5 6b  
82The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b 1
83As Summers Die7a+ 3
84One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
85Pinch an Inch7b+ *8
86Final Apocalypse7a+ *12
87The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
88Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
89The Ego has Landed7b+ 2
90The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
91Living with a Porcupine7a 5
92Once upon a Time7a+ 1
93Tree Surgeon7b 1
94The Fall8a **7
95Vindicator7c+ **13
96SkyFall7c+ *5
 Rubicon - Left 
98Alimoany7b+ 5
99The Honeymoon Is Over7c 4
100Decree Nici7b+ 8
101Second honeymoon7a 5
102Honeymoon BluesE5 6b *8
103Salar8a *26
104Slapin7c *11
105Slapdasher7a *24
106LapinE3 5c 6
107Welsh Rarebit6b+ *49
108Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
-
E3 5c  
109The Brer Faced Cheek of It
-
6a 3
110HareE3 5c 1
111Changing FortunesE4 6b 1
112Chairs MissingE4 6b *7
113A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
114DragonflightE3 5c **75
115The Dragon Flight Traversef6A+ *49
116JezebelE5 6a **8
117KingfisherE5 6c *3
118JawsE5 6b *6
119Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
120Barracuda8b *1
121Barracuda Startf7C+ * 
122Caviar8a+ ***25
123Caviar Startf7B *10
124Beluga8a+ *4
125Eugenics8b+  
126Let the Tribe Increase8a *14
127Dangerous Tribes8a *4
128The Dangerous Brothers8a **23
129Too Old to be Bold7c *79
130CootE4 6a 9
131PiranhaE6 6b ***9
132Piranha Startf7A *38
133Piranha Traversef7A+ *6
134CoraE6 6c *2
135White BaitE5 6c **6
136White Bait (start)f6C 21
137Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
 Kudos Wall 
139A Miller's TaleE5 6b **11
140A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ **356
141Miller's Tail Eliminate (avoid holds on R) *f6C+ 2
142Kudosf7B **155
143Kudos Originalf7C *14
144Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *27
145Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 4
146Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *14
147Kudos Original Sit Startf7C+ 3
148Kudos traverse
-
f7B **52
149The Pinchf7B+ *3
150Hot Fun Closing8a **50
151A Bigger Tailf7A **182
152Johnny Gf7C 9
153A Bigger Tail (route)7b+ **53
154A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
155A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
156The Pressf7B+ **74
157The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *6
158The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
159The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
160A Bigger Splashf7A+ *99
161A Bigger Splash Directf7B ***133
162Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **22
163Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **7
164A Bigger Prizef6B+ **210
165Tsunamif8A **29
166Tsunamishf7C+ *2
167Dancing Fishf8A **4
168Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***12
169Peg's Path Right *f6B 4
 Rubicon - Right 
171Water Baliff
-
HVS 4c 3
172Freewheeler
-
HVS 4c  
173The Terror of the Seven Seas7c *3
174Professor Kirk7b+ *2
175Maureen6c+ 1
176Point of no return6c 6
177Last But Not Least7a *35
178Trunk of Punk7a 6
179Sperm Worm
-
E5 6a 1
180Dumb Animal
-
E5 6a  
181The Pinch Test7c+ *6
182The AnglerE6 6c *1
183The Wimp7c *14
184The Sissy8a *61
185Zeke the Freak8b ***28
186The Bastard8c+ ** 
187Truely Awesome7a+ *15
188Rubicon7a ***582
189Rubicon Startf4+  
190Left Flankf5  
191Zeitgeist7b *71
192No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *1
193Cruising the Seven SeasE6 6b * 
194The Bomb is Coming7a *11
195Toenail Leftf6A+ 109
196Toenail PieE2 5b 21
197Toenail Pie Startf5 *197
198Debris
-
E4 5c 4
199Debris Groovef6A *93
200The Debris Dynof6C **30
201Crimps and Pocketsf6B+ 106
202Peg's Pathf6B 113
203Peg's Rightf6B * 
204Sharp Pocketsf5+ *132
205Warm-up Traversef4+ 217
206Low Breakf6B+ **93
207Middle Breakf6A *173
208Top Breakf5+ *161
209Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
-
E3 6c 3
210Approach Traversef7A **22
211Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 23
 Moat Buttress 
213Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 4
214Out of the Shadows7b *3
215Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *5
216Moat Madness
-
E5 6b *1
217Sheer PowerE5 6b  
218SheerwaterE1 5b *4
219The Lady of the Lake
-
E5 6b *5
220D.T.'s Route
-
E5 6b  
221Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks7c 4
222ExcaliburE6 6b **7
223No Mud, No Thud7b+ 8
224A Bigger Thud7c *7
225A Bigger Splat7a *21
226Let the Tripe Increase7c **40
227All Hands to the Pump7c+ 2
228Moatorhead7b+ **38
229Coming up for Air7c *10
230Moat People7b+ **129
231Afloat in the Moat6c+ *155
232Piranha WallE4 3
233TritonE4 5c 6
234Jaws llE5 6b  
235The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
236Two Sheep to Leicester7a+ *15
237Searching for the Yeti7b *5
238Moat WallE5 1
239Moat Race6c+ 6
240Moat PuddingsE5 2
241Castle Puddings6b+ 5
 Moat/Majorca Bouldering 
243Pinch Punch (Left Hand)f6C 1
244Pinch Punchf7A 4
245Tiger Stylef7A 6
246Uptown Top Rankingf7B 2
247Jacobs' Crackerf7C 1
 Majorca Crunch Buttress 
249You Got No Reason7a  
250Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
251Who got Rhyme6c 7
252Rhyme and Reason6c *13
253Reserve Judgement7a 10
254Happy Days6c+ *6
255Oh Dear!6c+ *17
256Four Men Tour6c *34
257Val de Mossa6c+ 9
258Blanca Expression7a *4
259The Majorca Alternative7a+ *24
260Costa del Jolly7a *16
261Wish you were here6b 20
262Do I?6b+ 13
263Mission Impossible8a+ * 
264Karma Killer8b **5
265Agent Provocateur8a+ **14
266Secret Agent8a+ *1
267perfecto7c+ 1
268Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
269Breakbeat8a * 
270One on One7a+ 1
271Under Western EyesE5 6b  
 The Cornice 
273Alpha Groove
-
VD  
274Sting in the Tail
-
E4 6a  
275Puffy White Flesh
-
E2 6a  
276Crystalline
-
S 1
277The Gully 1933
-
S 4b 2
278Bandwagon on Direction
-
E5 6a  
279The Bulge 1984E5 6b 1
280The Thatcher Years
-
E5 6b 15
281Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 1
282The Workhouse7a+ 3
283Poorlaw
-
6c+ 1
284A Major Moment
-
6c+ 11
285Supplementary Benefit
-
7a+ 11
286Incapacity Benefit7a+ **118
287The Dole 19897c *13
288Yorkshire 8b8a *7
289Ape Index8b+ *4
290The Weakling7c+ **8
291Brachiation Dance7b+ ***207
292The Free Monster8a ***86
293The Auctioneer8a+ ***12
294Rumble in the Jungle8a+ ***22
295Monsterosity8b ***9
296Albatrossity8a+ ***14
297Superfly8a+ **3
298Eclipsed8a+ **2
299The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **10
300Empire Burlesque7c+ *4
301The Nasty Man7c *2
302Goldcrest8a *1
303Sirius7c+ *2
304Atilla the Hun7a+ 5
305Catch the Rainbow6c 18
306Superocity8a+ **2
307Barbarossity8a+ **4
308Belladona
-
7b 3
309Releasable Abseil1 *1
 Two Tier Buttress 
311Tierfull
-
6b 1
312My Tiers led up to This
-
6b *5
313Tiery Henry
-
6b *5
314Under-Tiered
-
6c *3
 Witchcraft Wall 
316Spellbound
-
HVS 5c  
317Witchcraft Wall
-
E3 6b  
318Belladonna
-
7b *1
319Black Sabbath
-
HVS 5b  
320Vicar's Vertigo
-
E1 5b 7
321Sermon Wall
-
VS 1
322Confusion
-
E3 6b 1
323Ribcrusher Crack
-
VS 5a 1
 Central Buttress 
325Ringing Chimney
-
D 2
326Tiddle-de-Dum6c 2
327Te DeumE3 5b  
328Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE2 5c *3
329Chiming CrackE4 6a *4
330Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *1
331Carillon CrackE3 5c *4
332Silent StormE5 6a *1
333Carol's CrackE3 5c *6
334Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *8
335The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a  
336The BellringerE2 5c 7
337It Tolls for Thee6c+ *11
338Vapour Stream7a+ *6
339La Belle AgeE6 6b *1
340En Masse DescendreE6 6b * 
341In BulkE6 6b **1
342LeviathanE5 6b *1
343St. Paul
-
E3 5c *29
344St Paul Direct StartE3 6a *5
345Paulliac7c **2
346BehemothE5 6b ***32
347That'll Do NicelyE5 6b 3
348Yankee Dollar
-
E5 6b 1
349The Treadmill7b *8
350Fort KnoxE5 6a 2
351Fort Knox Direct7b *1
352The TrollE3 6a 7
353Crumbling CracksHVS 4b 4
354Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
355My Fickle Resolve6c+ *5
356Une Jour Parfait7b *1
357WarheadE3 6a 2
358Fire on Water7b+ **5
359The AlienE4 6b ***31
360AliensE6 6c * 
361White Fright
-
E6 6b * 
362Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *15
363WarE5 6a 4
364Freedom is Insane7a *24
365Hairy LegsE3 6a 4
366AftervisionE2 5c 2
367Deja Vu6c *7
368HeatwaveHVS 5a  
369No Chains on Me6c+ *11
370The Chain Gang6c+ *8
371The Chain Gang (Trad)6c+ *1
372Escape Artist7a+ *3
373Cool Hand LukeE5 6b 2
374DisparagementE5 6a 2
375Time WarpE4 6b  
376Fatal Attraction7a+ **15
377Fatal Hesitation7b+ *1
378SoxE5 6a *2
379La Brute7a *14
380La ChuteE5 6b **5
381La RouteE4 6a *4
382Coldity GrooveE3 5c 3
383Coldity CrackE1 5b 7
384C'est Plastique6c 20
385Plastic WonderVS 4c  
386Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
387GwendolineHVS 5a 2
388Orient routeD  
389Dis-orientated6b+ 3
390Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
391Fools Rush In
-
E1 5c 3
 Mill Buttress 
393Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
394Yukon GrooveVD * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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