UKC

Climbs 394
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

Rubicon wall © Ryan83

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Vision Buttress
2 Sunshine Super Frog
-
E6 6c 1
3 The Vision
-
E6 6c ** 2
4 Knocked Out Loaded
-
E6 6c ** 2
5 Agrippa's Knees
-
E6 6b  
  Jackdaw Point
7 Ground Control E1 5b 2
8 Skyline Pigeon
-
E5 6b  
9 Armed With an Empty Gun E4 6a * 2
10 Erithacus E2 5b * 34
11 Army Dreamers E2 5c * 31
12 Final Sacrifice E1 5b 1
13 Fledgling Flakes HVS 5b * 23
14 Burning Up Time E3 6a * 18
15 Nervous and Shaky E4 6a  
16 Fledgling VS 4c 12
17 Trial Run
-
VS 4c 2
18 First Flight HVS 5a 5
19 Palmolive E1 5c * 22
20 Endless Flight E2 5c * 22
21 Fear of Flying E2 5b * 28
22 Flight Path VS 4b 3
23 Victory Roll
-
VS 4c 2
24 Capricorn One E3 5c * 1
  Upper Circle
26 Hesitation Dance
-
E5 6a  
27 Specialist E4 6c  
28 Pragma 8a+ *  
29 Eat the Rich 7c * 14
30 Three Spheres 8b ** 2
31 The Inch Test 8a+ ** 5
32 Psychic Emulator E3 6b  
33 Splinter in the Mind's Eye E2 6b 1
34 Sweet William E2 5c * 7
35 Western Samoa E4 6b 1
36 Dead Tree Groove E2 5c * 19
37 Palace of Tyranny E1 5b  
38 Trench Warfare E2 5b  
39 Sweet FA E1 5b 1
40 Dead Tree Crack E1 5b * 11
41 Reptar on Ice
-
E1 5b  
42 Christmas Cracks
-
VS 4c 9
43 Euroman
-
HVS 5a 5
44 Looking Good
-
E4 6a  
45 Nidhšgg Loves Jormungand
-
E3 6a  
46 Cicatrix HVS 5a 2
47 Lost Tribes E3 5c * 1
48 Going Bush
-
E5 6c  
  Ping Pong Area
50 Jungle Jim
-
E2 5b 2
51 Tree Dweller's Crack
-
E3 6a 1
52 Deception E4 6a ** 22
53 Rio Verde E4 6b * 5
54 Confidence Trick 7b+  
55 Matto Grosso Chimney
-
VS 4c 1
56 Mandrake E5 6a ** 10
57 Chistiliano Wall
-
E4 6b  
58 Marsh Dweller's Rib
-
E3 6a 1
59 The Ponger VS 4b 1
60 Ping HVS 5b ** 91
61 Ping Pong E1 5b ** 79
62 Desmond Douglas E2 5c * 14
63 Pong
-
E1 5b 5
64 The Creative Urge
-
HVS 5b 1
65 Virgin's Crack
-
VS 4b 15
66 Sour Grapes E1 6a 4
67 Stupid Cupid E3 5c * 1
  Psyche's Buttress
69 The Arrow S 2
70 Summons
-
E4 5c  
71 Nappy Squad
-
E5 6b  
72 Dreams of Leaving
-
E2 5c  
73 Love is the Drug
-
6c+ 2
74 The Still Small Voice
-
E3 5c ** 4
75 Strip Search
-
E2 5c  
76 Bow String Groove
-
VS 4
77 Early One Morning
-
E2 5b,5c 1
78 The Keep
-
S 5
79 The Fairy
-
D 1
  Lammergeyer Buttress
81 Zob
-
E2 6a  
82 Part-time Hobby
-
E2 5b  
83 Aquarian Warriors
-
E5 6b  
84 The Lammergeyer Twins E5 6b 1
85 As Summers Die 7a+ 3
86 One Way Reflection E5 6b * 1
87 Pinch an Inch 7b+ * 8
88 Final Apocalypse 7a+ * 18
89 The Myth of Masculinity 7a+ 1
90 Mr. Puniverse 7a+ 2
91 The Ego has Landed 7b+ 3
92 The Amnicolist Spies on the Black Submarine E5 6b 1
93 Hard Torque 8a+ ** 2
94 Living with a Porcupine 7a 5
95 Tree Surgeon 7b 2
96 Once upon a Time 7a+ 2
97 The Fall 8a ** 7
98 Vindicator 7c+ ** 17
99 SkyFall 7c+ * 5
  Rubicon - Left
101 Alimoany 7b+ 7
102 The Honeymoon Is Over 7c 4
103 Decree Nici 7b+ 9
104 Second honeymoon 7a 6
105 Honeymoon Blues E5 6b * 9
106 Salar 8a * 23
107 Slapin 7c * 15
108 Slapdasher 7a * 32
109 Lapin E3 5c 9
110 Welsh Rarebit 6b+ * 54
111 Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
-
E3 5c 1
112 The Brer Faced Cheek of It
-
6a 6
113 Hare E3 5c 2
114 Changing Fortunes E4 6b 1
115 Chairs Missing E4 6b * 10
116 A Tall Story E5 6c * 1
117 Dragonflight E3 5c ** 76
118 The Dragon Flight Traverse f6A+ * 53
119 Jezebel E5 6a ** 11
120 Kingfisher E5 6c * 4
121 Jaws E5 6b * 8
122 Plectrum Maxilla Direct E7 6c *  
123 Barracuda 8b * 1
124 Barracuda Start f7C+ *  
125 Caviar 8a+ *** 20
126 Caviar Start f7B * 15
127 Beluga 8a+ * 4
128 Eugenics 8b+  
129 Let the Tribe Increase 8a * 14
130 Dangerous Tribes 8a * 2
131 The Dangerous Brothers 8a ** 19
132 Too Old to be Bold 7c * 78
133 Coot E4 6a 10
134 Piranha E6 6b *** 10
135 Piranha Start f7A * 41
136 Piranha Traverse f7A+ * 7
137 Cora E6 6c * 2
138 White Bait E5 6c ** 7
Climb name Grade
139 White Bait (start) f6C 29
140 Flake Out Shake Out E4 6c  
  Kudos Wall
142 A Miller's Tale E5 6b ** 14
143 A Miller's Tale Start f6B+ ** 393
144 Miller's Tail Eliminate (avoid holds on R) * f6C+ 5
145 Kudos f7B ** 165
146 Kudos Original f7C * 16
147 Kudos - the Hard Way f7B * 25
148 Kudos Hard Way Sit Start f7B+ 4
149 Kudos Sit Start f7B+ * 15
150 Kudos Original Sit Start f7C+ 3
151 Kudos traverse
-
f7B ** 52
152 The Pinch f7B+ * 3
153 Hot Fun Closing 8a ** 36
154 A Bigger Tail f7A ** 200
155 Johnny G f7C 9
156 A Bigger Tail (route) 7b+ ** 54
157 A Bigger Tail Stand Start f7C * 1
158 A Bigger Belly f8B *  
159 The Press f7B+ ** 66
160 The Press - Kneeling Start f7C+ * 7
161 The Press - Low Right Start f8A ** 3
162 The Press - Low Left Start f8A+ ** 2
163 A Bigger Splash f7A+ * 105
164 A Bigger Splash Direct f7B *** 145
165 Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Start f7C ** 19
166 Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Start f7C ** 6
167 A Bigger Prize f6B+ ** 230
168 Tsunami f8A ** 21
169 Tsunamish f7C+ * 2
170 Dancing Fish f8A ** 5
171 Dancing Fish Standing f7B *** 14
172 Peg's Path Right * f6B 4
  Rubicon - Right
174 Water Baliff
-
HVS 4c 3
175 Freewheeler
-
HVS 4c 1
176 The Terror of the Seven Seas 7c * 13
177 Professor Kirk 7b+ * 14
178 Maureen 6c+ 4
179 Point of no return 6c 13
180 Last But Not Least 7a * 51
181 Trunk of Punk 7a 22
182 Sperm Worm
-
E5 6a 2
183 Dumb Animal
-
E5 6a 1
184 The Pinch Test 7c+ * 4
185 The Angler E6 6c * 1
186 The Wimp 7c * 11
187 The Sissy 8a * 52
188 Zeke the Freak 8b *** 19
189 The Bastard 8c+ **  
190 Truely Awesome 7a+ * 16
191 Rubicon 7a *** 547
192 Rubicon Start f4+ 18
193 Left Flank f5 11
194 Zeitgeist 7b * 75
195 No Jug, No Thug E5 6b * 2
196 Cruising the Seven Seas E6 6b * 1
197 The Bomb is Coming 7a * 14
198 Direct Hit 7b 1
199 Toenail Left f6A+ 118
200 Toenail Pie E2 5b 23
201 Toenail Pie Start f5 * 218
202 Debris
-
E4 5c 5
203 Debris Groove f6A * 105
204 The Debris Dyno f6C ** 32
205 Crimps and Pockets f6B+ 119
206 Peg's Path f6B 130
207 Peg's Right f6B * 19
208 Sharp Pockets f5+ * 153
209 Warm-up Traverse f4+ 253
210 Low Break f6B+ ** 108
211 Middle Break f6A * 194
212 Top Break f5+ * 193
213 Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
-
E3 6c 3
214 Approach Traverse f7A ** 34
215 Small But Perfectly Formed 7a+ 24
  Waterfall buttress
217 Rapture E5 6c **  
218 In the Flesh 7a * 4
  Moat Buttress
220 Nude Moatorcycle Girl 7a 5
221 Out of the Shadows 7b * 4
222 Another Moatside Attraction 7a+ * 7
223 Moat Madness
-
E5 6b * 2
224 Sheer Power E5 6b  
225 Sheerwater E1 5b * 4
226 The Lady of the Lake 7a+ * 8
227 D.T.'s Route
-
E5 6b  
228 Garderobe 7b+ ** 16
229 Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks 7c 15
230 King Arthritis 7b+ ** 17
231 Excalibur 7b+ ** 28
232 No Mud, No Thud 7b+ 13
233 A Bigger Thud 7c * 11
234 A Bigger Splat 7a * 34
235 Let the Tripe Increase 7c ** 52
236 Over the Moorhens 7b+ * 15
237 All Hands to the Pump 7c+ 1
238 Moatorhead 7b+ ** 68
239 Coming up for Air 7c * 21
240 Moat People 7b+ ** 184
241 Moat Afloat 7a 2
242 Afloat in the Moat 6c+ * 236
243 Castaway 6c+ 36
244 Piranha Wall E4 4
245 Triton E4 5c 7
246 Jaws ll E5 6b 1
247 The Flying Dutchman E6 6c *  
248 Two Sheep to Leicester 7a+ * 22
249 Searching for the Yeti 7b * 5
250 Moat Wall E5 1
251 Moat Race 6c+ 7
252 Moat Puddings E5 2
253 Castle Puddings 6b+ 5
  Moat/Majorca Bouldering
255 Pinch Punch (Left Hand) f6C 1
256 Pinch Punch f7A 5
257 Tiger Style f7A 7
258 Uptown Top Ranking f7B 3
259 Jacobs' Cracker f7C 2
  Majorca Crunch Buttress
261 You Got No Reason 7a  
262 Rhyme Crime 7a+ 1
263 Who got Rhyme 6c 8
264 Rhyme and Reason 6c * 16
265 Reserve Judgement 7a 14
266 Happy Days 6c+ * 9
267 Oh Dear! 6c+ * 25
268 Four Men Tour 6c * 45
269 Val de Mossa 6c+ 12
270 Blanca Expression 7a * 5
271 The Majorca Alternative 7a+ * 29
272 Costa del Jolly 7a * 16
273 Wish you were here 6b 30
274 Do I? 6b+ 19
275 Mission Impossible 8a+ * 1
276 Karma Killer 8b ** 3
Climb name Grade
277 Agent Provocateur 8a+ ** 8
278 Secret Agent 8a+ * 1
279 perfecto 7c+ 1
280 Trainer Tamer 7b+ 2
281 Breakbeat 8a *  
282 One on One 7a+ 1
283 Under Western Eyes E5 6b  
  The Cornice
285 Alpha Groove
-
VD  
286 Sting in the Tail
-
E4 6a  
287 Puffy White Flesh
-
E2 6a  
288 Crystalline
-
S 1
289 The Gully 1933
-
S 4b 2
290 Bandwagon on Direction
-
E5 6a  
291 The Bulge 1984 E5 6b 4
292 The Thatcher Years
-
E5 6b 17
293 Nothing to Help the Poor E5 6b 2
294 The Workhouse 7a+ 3
295 Poorlaw
-
6c+ 1
296 A Major Moment
-
6c+ 18
297 Supplementary Benefit
-
7a+ 11
298 Incapacity Benefit 7a+ ** 130
299 The Dole 1989 7c * 15
300 Yorkshire 8b 8a * 4
301 Ape Index 8b+ * 3
302 The Weakling 7c+ ** 7
303 Brachiation Dance 7b+ *** 187
304 The Free Monster 8a *** 68
305 The Auctioneer 8a+ *** 9
306 Rumble in the Jungle 8a+ *** 15
307 Monsterosity 8b *** 8
308 Albatrossity 8a+ *** 8
309 Superfly 8a+ ** 1
310 Eclipsed 8a+ ** 1
311 The Disillusioned Glue Machine 8a ** 9
312 Empire Burlesque 7c+ * 7
313 The Nasty Man 7c * 3
314 Goldcrest 8a * 2
315 Sirius 7c+ * 3
316 Atilla the Hun 7a+ 6
317 Catch the Rainbow 6c 25
318 Superocity 8a+ ** 1
319 Barbarossity 8a+ ** 2
320 Releasable Abseil 1 * 1
  Two Tier Buttress
322 Tierfull
-
6b 3
323 My Tiers led up to This
-
6b * 7
324 Tiery Henry
-
6b * 7
325 Under-Tiered
-
6c * 5
  Witchcraft Wall
327 Spellbound
-
HVS 5c 2
328 Witchcraft Wall
-
E3 6b 1
329 Belladonna
-
7b+ * 8
330 Sabbra Cadabra 6c+ * 2
331 Black Sabbath
-
HVS 5b  
332 Vicar's Vertigo
-
E1 5b 11
333 Sermon Wall
-
VS 1
334 Confusion
-
E3 6b 1
335 Ribcrusher Crack
-
VS 5a 1
  Central Buttress
337 Ringing Chimney
-
D 2
338 Tiddle-de-Dum 6c 3
339 Te Deum E3 5b 1
340 Hammy Hamster's Last Rites E2 5c * 4
341 Chiming Crack E4 6a * 6
342 Dangerous Liaisons E5 6b * 2
343 Carillon Crack E3 5c * 6
344 Silent Storm E5 6a * 1
345 Carol's Crack E3 5c * 8
346 Hemmingway's Horror E2 5c * 11
347 The Importance of Being Ernest E4 6a 1
348 The Bellringer E2 5c 11
349 It Tolls for Thee 6c+ * 17
350 Vapour Stream 7a+ * 8
351 La Belle Age E6 6b * 6
352 En Masse Descendre E6 6b * 2
353 In Bulk E6 6b ** 5
354 Leviathan E5 6b * 3
355 St. Paul
-
E3 5c * 34
356 St Paul Direct Start E3 6a * 7
357 Paulliac 7c ** 4
358 Behemoth E5 6b *** 31
359 That'll Do Nicely E5 6b 4
360 Yankee Dollar
-
E5 6b 2
361 The Treadmill 7b * 15
362 Fort Knox E5 6a 3
363 Fort Knox Direct 7b * 4
364 The Troll E3 6a 10
365 Crumbling Cracks HVS 4b 5
366 Squatter's Rights HVS 4c  
367 My Fickle Resolve 6c+ * 35
368 Une Jour Parfait 7b * 6
369 Warhead E3 6a 6
370 Fire on Water 7b+ ** 7
371 The Alien E4 6b *** 39
372 Aliens E6 6c *  
373 White Fright
-
E6 6b * 1
374 Knuckle Knocker E3 5c * 18
375 War E5 6a 7
376 Freedom is Insane 7a * 43
377 Hairy Legs E3 6a 6
378 Aftervision E2 5c 3
379 Deja Vu 6c * 19
380 Heatwave HVS 5a 1
381 No Chains on Me 6c+ * 22
382 The Chain Gang 6c+ * 14
383 The Chain Gang (Trad) 6c+ * 1
384 Escape Artist 7a+ * 12
385 The Rocky Horror Picture Show: Let's Do the Time Warp Again 7c **  
386 Cool Hand Luke E5 6b 9
387 Disparagement E5 6a 3
388 Time Warp E4 6b 2
389 Fatal Attraction 7a+ ** 34
390 Fatal Hesitation 7b+ * 3
391 Sox E5 6a * 5
392 La Brute 7a * 31
393 La Chute E5 6b ** 8
394 La Route E4 6a * 19
395 Coldity Groove E3 5c 5
396 Coldity Crack E1 5b 8
397 C'est Plastique 6c 52
398 Plastic Wonder VS 4c  
399 Plastic Blinkers HVS 5b  
400 Gwendoline HVS 5a 3
401 Orient route D  
402 Dis-orientated 6b+ 6
403 Strange Beings E5 6b * 2
404 Fools Rush In
-
E1 5c 3
  Mill Buttress
406 Top Tips E3 6a ** 1
407 Tip Toe Wall HVS 5a 2
408 Crepitus 7a+ * 3
409 Yukon Groove VD *  
410 Mill Street Blues 6c+ * 3
411 Scoopy Little Number E2 5b * 1
412 Novelty E3 6b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers kristian and Alan James - UKC and UKH