Climbs 380
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

Rubicon wall © Ryan83

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Vision Buttress 
2Sunshine Super Frog
-
E6 6c 1
3The Vision
-
E6 6c **2
4Knocked Out Loaded
-
E6 6c **2
5Agrippa's Knees
-
E6 6b  
 Jackdaw Point 
7Ground ControlE1 5b 2
8Skyline Pigeon
-
E5 6b  
9Armed With an Empty GunE4 6a *2
10ErithacusE2 5b *33
11Army DreamersE2 5c *30
12Final SacrificeE1 5b 1
13Fledgling FlakesHVS 5b *21
14Burning Up TimeE3 6a *16
15Nervous and ShakyE4 6a  
16FledglingVS 4c 12
17Trial Run
-
VS 4c 2
18First FlightHVS 5a 5
19PalmoliveE1 5c *22
20Endless FlightE2 5c *21
21Fear of FlyingE2 5b *28
22Flight PathVS 4b 3
23Victory Roll
-
VS 4c 2
24Capricorn OneE3 5c *1
 Upper Circle 
26Hesitation Dance
-
E5 6a  
27SpecialistE4 6c  
28Pragma8a+ * 
29Eat the Rich7c *17
30Three Spheres8b **4
31The Inch Test8a+ **8
32Psychic EmulatorE3 6b  
33Splinter in the Mind's EyeE2 6b 1
34Sweet WilliamE2 5c *6
35Western SamoaE4 6b 1
36Dead Tree GrooveE2 5c *19
37Palace of TyrannyE1 5b  
38Trench WarfareE2 5b  
39Sweet FAE1 5b 1
40Dead Tree CrackE1 5b *11
41Reptar on Ice
-
E1 5b  
42Christmas Cracks
-
VS 4c 9
43Euroman
-
HVS 5a 5
44Looking Good
-
E4 6a  
45Nidhšgg Loves Jormungand
-
E3 6a  
46CicatrixHVS 5a 2
47Going Bush
-
E5 6c  
 Ping Pong Area 
49Jungle Jim
-
E2 5b 2
50Tree Dweller's Crack
-
E3 6a 1
51DeceptionE4 6a **24
52Rio VerdeE4 6b *5
53Confidence Trick7b+  
54Matto Grosso Chimney
-
VS 4c 1
55MandrakeE5 6a **10
56Chistiliano Wall
-
E4 6b  
57Marsh Dweller's Rib
-
E3 6a 1
58The PongerVS 4b 1
59PingHVS 5b **87
60Ping PongE1 5b **77
61Desmond DouglasE2 5c *14
62Pong
-
E1 5b 5
63The Creative Urge
-
HVS 5b  
64Virgin's Crack
-
VS 4b 13
65Sour GrapesE1 6a 3
66Unnamed *E3 5c *1
67Lost Tribes *E3 5c *1
 Psyche's Buttress 
69The ArrowS 1
70Summons
-
E4 5c  
71Nappy Squad
-
E5 6b  
72Dreams of Leaving
-
E2 5c  
73Love is the Drug
-
6c+ 2
74The Still Small Voice
-
E3 5c **4
75Strip Search
-
E2 5c  
76Bow String Groove
-
VS 4
77Early One Morning
-
E2 5b,5c 1
78The Keep
-
S 5
79The Fairy
-
D 1
 Lammergeyer Buttress 
81Zob
-
E2 6a  
82Part-time Hobby
-
E2 5b  
83Aquarian Warriors
-
E5 6b  
84The Lammergeyer TwinsE5 6b 1
85As Summers Die7a+ 3
86One Way ReflectionE5 6b * 
87Pinch an Inch7b+ *8
88Final Apocalypse7a+ *13
89The Myth of Masculinity7a+ 1
90Mr. Puniverse7a+ 2
91The Ego has Landed7b+ 3
92The Amnicolist Spies on the Black SubmarineE5 6b 1
93Living with a Porcupine7a 5
94Once upon a Time7a+ 1
95Tree Surgeon7b 1
96The Fall8a **8
97Vindicator7c+ **13
98SkyFall7c+ *5
 Rubicon - Left 
100Alimoany7b+ 6
101The Honeymoon Is Over7c 4
102Decree Nici7b+ 9
103Second honeymoon7a 6
104Honeymoon BluesE5 6b *9
105Salar8a *26
106Slapin7c *11
107Slapdasher7a *25
108LapinE3 5c 7
109Welsh Rarebit6b+ *50
110Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
-
E3 5c 1
111The Brer Faced Cheek of It
-
6a 5
112HareE3 5c 2
113Changing FortunesE4 6b 1
114Chairs MissingE4 6b *8
115A Tall StoryE5 6c *1
116DragonflightE3 5c **77
117The Dragon Flight Traversef6A+ *50
118JezebelE5 6a **11
119KingfisherE5 6c *4
120JawsE5 6b *8
121Plectrum Maxilla DirectE7 6c * 
122Barracuda8b *1
123Barracuda Startf7C+ * 
124Caviar8a+ ***27
125Caviar Startf7B *10
126Beluga8a+ *4
127Eugenics8b+  
128Let the Tribe Increase8a *15
129Dangerous Tribes8a *4
130The Dangerous Brothers8a **23
131Too Old to be Bold7c *80
132CootE4 6a 10
133PiranhaE6 6b ***9
134Piranha Startf7A *39
135Piranha Traversef7A+ *9
136CoraE6 6c *2
137White BaitE5 6c **6
138White Bait (start)f6C 23
139Flake Out Shake OutE4 6c  
 Kudos Wall 
141A Miller's TaleE5 6b **13
142A Miller's Tale Startf6B+ **363
143Miller's Tail Eliminate (avoid holds on R) *f6C+ 3
144Kudosf7B **161
145Kudos Originalf7C *17
146Kudos - the Hard Wayf7B *27
147Kudos Hard Way Sit Startf7B+ 4
148Kudos Sit Startf7B+ *14
149Kudos Original Sit Startf7C+ 3
150Kudos traverse
-
f7B **52
151The Pinchf7B+ *3
152Hot Fun Closing8a **51
153A Bigger Tailf7A **188
154Johnny Gf7C 9
155A Bigger Tail (route)7b+ **53
156A Bigger Tail Stand Startf7C *1
157A Bigger Bellyf8B * 
158The Pressf7B+ **76
159The Press - Kneeling Startf7C+ *6
160The Press - Low Right Startf8A **2
161The Press - Low Left Startf8A+ **1
162A Bigger Splashf7A+ *102
163A Bigger Splash Directf7B ***135
164Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Startf7C **22
165Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Startf7C **7
166A Bigger Prizef6B+ **215
167Tsunamif8A **29
168Tsunamishf7C+ *2
169Dancing Fishf8A **4
170Dancing Fish Standingf7B ***12
171Peg's Path Right *f6B 4
 Rubicon - Right 
173Water Baliff
-
HVS 4c 3
174Freewheeler
-
HVS 4c 1
175The Terror of the Seven Seas7c *4
176Professor Kirk7b+ *3
177Maureen6c+ 2
178Point of no return6c 7
179Last But Not Least7a *39
180Trunk of Punk7a 9
181Sperm Worm
-
E5 6a 2
182Dumb Animal
-
E5 6a 1
183The Pinch Test7c+ *6
184The AnglerE6 6c *1
185The Wimp7c *14
186The Sissy8a *63
187Zeke the Freak8b ***28
188The Bastard8c+ ** 
189Truely Awesome7a+ *18
190Rubicon7a ***592
191Rubicon Startf4+  
192Left Flankf5  
193Zeitgeist7b *72
194No Jug, No ThugE5 6b *3
195Cruising the Seven SeasE6 6b *1
196The Bomb is Coming7a *12
197Toenail Leftf6A+ 109
198Toenail PieE2 5b 22
199Toenail Pie Startf5 *199
200Debris
-
E4 5c 5
201Debris Groovef6A *93
202The Debris Dynof6C **30
203Crimps and Pocketsf6B+ 106
204Peg's Pathf6B 114
205Peg's Rightf6B *1
206Sharp Pocketsf5+ *134
207Warm-up Traversef4+ 221
208Low Breakf6B+ **94
209Middle Breakf6A *176
210Top Breakf5+ *166
211Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
-
E3 6c 3
212Approach Traversef7A **22
213Small But Perfectly Formed7a+ 23
 Moat Buttress 
215Nude Moatorcycle Girl7a 5
216Out of the Shadows7b *3
217Another Moatside Attraction7a+ *8
218Moat Madness
-
E5 6b *2
219Sheer PowerE5 6b  
220SheerwaterE1 5b *4
221The Lady of the Lake
-
E5 6b *6
222D.T.'s Route
-
E5 6b  
223Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks7c 7
224ExcaliburE6 6b **11
225No Mud, No Thud7b+ 10
226A Bigger Thud7c *8
227A Bigger Splat7a *23
228Let the Tripe Increase7c **39
229All Hands to the Pump7c+ 2
230Moatorhead7b+ **41
231Coming up for Air7c *10
232Moat People7b+ **135
233Afloat in the Moat6c+ *160
234Piranha WallE4 4
235TritonE4 5c 7
236Jaws llE5 6b 1
237The Flying DutchmanE6 6c * 
238Two Sheep to Leicester7a+ *16
239Searching for the Yeti7b *5
240Moat WallE5 1
241Moat Race6c+ 7
242Moat PuddingsE5 2
243Castle Puddings6b+ 5
244King Arthritis *7b+ 2
 Moat/Majorca Bouldering 
246Pinch Punch (Left Hand)f6C 1
247Pinch Punchf7A 4
248Tiger Stylef7A 6
249Uptown Top Rankingf7B 2
250Jacobs' Crackerf7C 1
 Majorca Crunch Buttress 
252You Got No Reason7a  
253Rhyme Crime7a+ 1
254Who got Rhyme6c 7
255Rhyme and Reason6c *13
256Reserve Judgement7a 10
257Happy Days6c+ *6
258Oh Dear!6c+ *17
259Four Men Tour6c *34
260Val de Mossa6c+ 9
261Blanca Expression7a *4
262The Majorca Alternative7a+ *25
263Costa del Jolly7a *16
264Wish you were here6b 20
265Do I?6b+ 13
266Mission Impossible8a+ * 
267Karma Killer8b **5
268Agent Provocateur8a+ **14
269Secret Agent8a+ *1
270perfecto7c+ 1
271Trainer Tamer7b+ 2
272Breakbeat8a * 
273One on One7a+ 1
274Under Western EyesE5 6b  
 The Cornice 
276Alpha Groove
-
VD  
277Sting in the Tail
-
E4 6a  
278Puffy White Flesh
-
E2 6a  
279Crystalline
-
S 1
280The Gully 1933
-
S 4b 2
281Bandwagon on Direction
-
E5 6a  
282The Bulge 1984E5 6b 3
283The Thatcher Years
-
E5 6b 16
284Nothing to Help the PoorE5 6b 2
285The Workhouse7a+ 3
286Poorlaw
-
6c+ 1
287A Major Moment
-
6c+ 11
288Supplementary Benefit
-
7a+ 11
289Incapacity Benefit7a+ **121
290The Dole 19897c *16
291Yorkshire 8b8a *7
292Ape Index8b+ *4
293The Weakling7c+ **9
294Brachiation Dance7b+ ***210
295The Free Monster8a ***86
296The Auctioneer8a+ ***12
297Rumble in the Jungle8a+ ***24
298Monsterosity8b ***9
299Albatrossity8a+ ***14
300Superfly8a+ **3
301Eclipsed8a+ **2
302The Disillusioned Glue Machine8a **11
303Empire Burlesque7c+ *7
304The Nasty Man7c *2
305Goldcrest8a *2
306Sirius7c+ *3
307Atilla the Hun7a+ 7
308Catch the Rainbow6c 19
309Superocity8a+ **2
310Barbarossity8a+ **4
311Belladona
-
7b 3
312Releasable Abseil1 *1
 Two Tier Buttress 
314Tierfull
-
6b 1
315My Tiers led up to This
-
6b *5
316Tiery Henry
-
6b *5
317Under-Tiered
-
6c *3
 Witchcraft Wall 
319Spellbound
-
HVS 5c 1
320Witchcraft Wall
-
E3 6b 1
321Belladonna
-
7b *2
322Black Sabbath
-
HVS 5b  
323Vicar's Vertigo
-
E1 5b 8
324Sermon Wall
-
VS 1
325Confusion
-
E3 6b 1
326Ribcrusher Crack
-
VS 5a 1
 Central Buttress 
328Ringing Chimney
-
D 2
329Tiddle-de-Dum6c 2
330Te DeumE3 5b 1
331Hammy Hamster's Last RitesE2 5c *4
332Chiming CrackE4 6a *5
333Dangerous LiaisonsE5 6b *2
334Carillon CrackE3 5c *5
335Silent StormE5 6a *1
336Carol's CrackE3 5c *7
337Hemmingway's HorrorE2 5c *9
338The Importance of Being ErnestE4 6a 1
339The BellringerE2 5c 8
340It Tolls for Thee6c+ *13
341Vapour Stream7a+ *6
342La Belle AgeE6 6b *2
343En Masse DescendreE6 6b * 
344In BulkE6 6b **1
345LeviathanE5 6b *2
346St. Paul
-
E3 5c *30
347St Paul Direct StartE3 6a *5
348Paulliac7c **2
349BehemothE5 6b ***34
350That'll Do NicelyE5 6b 4
351Yankee Dollar
-
E5 6b 2
352The Treadmill7b *8
353Fort KnoxE5 6a 3
354Fort Knox Direct7b *1
355The TrollE3 6a 8
356Crumbling CracksHVS 4b 5
357Squatter's RightsHVS 4c  
358My Fickle Resolve6c+ *7
359Une Jour Parfait7b *1
360WarheadE3 6a 3
361Fire on Water7b+ **7
362The AlienE4 6b ***34
363AliensE6 6c * 
364White Fright
-
E6 6b *1
365Knuckle KnockerE3 5c *16
366WarE5 6a 5
367Freedom is Insane7a *27
368Hairy LegsE3 6a 5
369AftervisionE2 5c 3
370Deja Vu6c *10
371HeatwaveHVS 5a 1
372No Chains on Me6c+ *13
373The Chain Gang6c+ *9
374The Chain Gang (Trad)6c+ *1
375Escape Artist7a+ *5
376Cool Hand LukeE5 6b 4
377DisparagementE5 6a 3
378Time WarpE4 6b 1
379Fatal Attraction7a+ **17
380Fatal Hesitation7b+ *3
381SoxE5 6a *3
382La Brute7a *16
383La ChuteE5 6b **7
384La RouteE4 6a *5
385Coldity GrooveE3 5c 4
386Coldity CrackE1 5b 8
387C'est Plastique6c 22
388Plastic WonderVS 4c  
389Plastic BlinkersHVS 5b  
390GwendolineHVS 5a 2
391Orient routeD  
392Dis-orientated6b+ 4
393Scoopy Little NumberE2 5b *1
394Fools Rush In
-
E1 5c 3
 Mill Buttress 
396Tip Toe WallHVS 5a 2
397Yukon GrooveVD * 
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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