Climbs 440
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

View Stats

Rubicon wall © Ryan83

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Vision Buttress
2 Sunshine Super Frog
-
E6 6c 1
3 The Vision
-
E6 6c ** 3
4 Knocked Out Loaded
-
E6 6c ** 1
5 Agrippa's Knees
-
E6 6b 1
  Jackdaw Point
7 Ground Control E1 5b 2
8 Skyline Pigeon
-
E5 6b  
9 Armed With an Empty Gun E4 6a * 2
10 Erithacus E2 5b * 36
11 Army Dreamers E2 5c * 31
12 Final Sacrifice E1 5b 1
13 Fledgling Flakes HVS 5b * 23
14 Burning Up Time E3 6a * 18
15 Nervous and Shaky E4 6a  
16 Fledgling VS 4c 11
17 Trial Run
-
VS 4c 2
18 First Flight HVS 5a 6
19 Palmolive E1 5c * 25
20 Endless Flight E2 5c * 22
21 Fear of Flying E2 5b * 29
22 Flight Path VS 4b 3
23 Victory Roll
-
VS 4c 2
24 Capricorn One E3 5c * 1
  Upper Circle
26 Hesitation Dance
-
E5 6a  
27 Specialist E4 6c  
28 Pragma 8a+ *  
29 Eat the Rich 7c * 20
30 Three Spheres 8b ** 2
31 The Inch Test 8a+ ** 7
32 Psychic Emulator E3 6b  
33 Splinter in the Mind's Eye E2 6b 2
34 Sweet William E2 5c * 7
35 Western Samoa E4 6b 1
36 Dead Tree Groove E2 5c * 21
37 Zatopek E3 6a  
38 Palace of Tyranny E1 5b  
39 Trench Warfare E2 5b  
40 Sweet FA E1 5b 2
41 Dead Tree Crack E1 5b * 12
42 Reptar on Ice
-
E1 5b  
43 Christmas Cracks
-
VS 4c 9
44 Euroman
-
HVS 5a 5
45 Looking Good
-
E4 6a  
46 Nidhšgg Loves Jormungand
-
E3 6a  
47 Second Nature E3 5c  
48 Adios Matlock E3 6a  
49 Cicatrix HVS 5a 2
50 Lost Tribes E3 5c * 1
51 Going Bush
-
E5 6c  
  Ping Pong Area
53 Jungle Jim
-
E2 5b 1
54 Tree Dweller's Crack
-
E3 6a  
55 Deception E4 6a ** 24
56 Rio Verde E4 6b * 5
57 Confidence Trick 7b+  
58 Matto Grosso Chimney
-
VS 4c 1
59 Mandrake E5 6a ** 10
60 Chistiliano Wall
-
E4 6b  
61 Marsh Dweller's Rib
-
E3 6a  
62 The Ponger VS 4b 1
63 Ping HVS 5b ** 102
64 Ping Pong E1 5b ** 88
65 Desmond Douglas E2 5c * 18
66 Pong
-
E1 5b 6
67 The Creative Urge
-
HVS 5b 1
68 Virgin's Crack
-
VS 4b 15
69 Sour Grapes E1 6a 3
70 Stupid Cupid E3 5c * 1
  Psyche's Buttress
72 The Arrow S 2
73 Summons
-
E4 5c  
74 Nappy Squad
-
E5 6b  
75 Dreams of Leaving
-
E2 5c  
76 Love is the Drug
-
6c+ 2
77 The Still Small Voice
-
E3 5c ** 4
78 Strip Search
-
E2 5c  
79 Bow String Groove
-
VS 5
80 Early One Morning
-
E2 5b,5c 1
81 The Keep
-
S 4
82 The Fairy
-
D 1
83 Finders Keepers f7A 4
84 Keepie Uppie f7B 4
85 Keep Off The Grass f7C 2
86 Mini Fingerblaster f7B 2
87 Keep away f7C 1
88 Monumental fingerblaster f7B ** 2
  Lammergeyer Buttress
90 Zob
-
E2 6a  
91 Part-time Hobby
-
E2 5b  
92 Recycle or Die 6b+ 4
93 Aquarian Warriors E5 6b 1
94 The Lammergeyer Twins E5 6b 1
95 As Summers Die 7a+ 6
96 Easy's gettin' harder 7c * 1
97 One Way Reflection 7a * 15
98 Pinch an Inch 7b+ * 9
99 Final Apocalypse 7a+ * 30
100 Mr. Puniverse 7a+ 7
101 The Myth of Masculinity 7a+ 1
102 The Ego has Landed 7b+ 2
103 The Amnicolist Spies on the Black Submarine E5 6b 1
104 Hard Torque 8a+ ** 8
105 Living with a Porcupine 7a 6
106 Tree Surgeon 7b 7
107 Once upon a Time 7a+ 5
108 The Fall 8a ** 10
109 Vindicator 7c+ ** 24
110 SkyFall 7c+ * 8
  Rubicon - Left
112 Alimoany 7b+ 7
113 The Honeymoon Is Over 7c 4
114 Decree Nici 7b+ 9
115 Second honeymoon 7a 7
116 Honeymoon Blues E5 6b * 10
117 Salar 8a * 26
118 Slapin 7c * 16
119 Slapdasher 7a * 35
120 Lapin E3 5c 8
121 Welsh Rarebit 6b+ * 57
122 Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
-
E3 5c  
123 The Brer Faced Cheek of It
-
6a 9
124 Hare E3 5c 1
125 Changing Fortunes E4 6b 1
126 Chairs Missing E4 6b * 9
127 A Tall Story E5 6c * 1
128 Dragonflight E3 5c ** 82
129 The Dragon Flight Traverse f6A+ * 54
130 Jezebel E5 6a ** 11
131 Kingfisher E5 6c * 3
132 Jaws E5 6b * 9
133 Plectrum Maxilla Direct E7 6c *  
134 Barracuda 8b * 2
135 Barracuda Start f7C+ *  
136 Caviar 8a+ *** 25
137 Caviar Start f7B * 21
138 Beluga 8a+ * 5
139 Eugenics 8b+  
140 Let the Tribe Increase 8a * 18
141 Dangerous Tribes 8a * 2
142 The Dangerous Brothers 8a ** 21
143 Too Old to be Bold 7c * 89
144 Coot E4 6a 11
145 Piranha E6 6b *** 11
146 Piranha Start f7A * 46
147 Piranha Traverse f7A+ * 6
148 Cora E6 6c * 2
149 White Bait E5 6c ** 8
150 White Bait (start) f6C 31
151 Flake Out Shake Out E4 6c  
152 Bigger splash direct into kudos reverse.
-
f7C+ 1
Climb name Grade
  Kudos Wall
154 A Miller's Tale E5 6b ** 16
155 A Miller's Tale Start f6B+ ** 436
156 Miller's Tail Eliminate (avoid holds on R) f6C+ 11
157 Kudos f7B ** 189
158 Kudos Original f7C * 17
159 Kudos - the Hard Way f7B * 28
160 Kudos Hard Way Sit Start f7B+ 4
161 Kudos Sit Start f7B+ * 16
162 Kudos Original Sit Start f7C+ 3
163 Kudos traverse
-
f7B ** 59
164 The Pinch f7B+ * 3
165 Hot Fun Closing 8a ** 44
166 A Bigger Tail f7A ** 219
167 Johnny G 7C f7C 10
168 A Bigger Tail (route) 7b+ ** 67
169 A Bigger Tail Stand Start f7C * 1
170 A Bigger Belly f8B *  
171 The Press f7B+ ** 78
172 The Press - Kneeling Start f7C+ * 10
173 The Press - Low Right Start f8A ** 5
174 The Press - Low Left Start f8A+ ** 4
175 A Bigger Splash f7A+ * 115
176 A Bigger Splash Direct f7B *** 169
177 Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Start f7C ** 22
178 Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Start f7C ** 7
179 A Bigger Prize f6B+ ** 271
180 Tsunami f8A ** 23
181 Tsunamish f7C+ * 3
182 Dancing Fish f8A ** 5
183 Dancing Fish Standing f7B *** 18
184 Peg's Path Right f6B 5
  Rubicon - Right
186 Water Baliff
-
HVS 4c 3
187 Freewheeler
-
HVS 4c  
188 The Terror of the Seven Seas 7c * 12
189 Professor Kirk 7b+ * 14
190 Maureen 6c+ 3
191 Point of no return 6c 12
192 Last But Not Least 7a * 58
193 Trunk of Punk 7a 23
194 Sperm Worm
-
E5 6a 1
195 Dumb Animal
-
E5 6a  
196 The Pinch Test 7c+ * 6
197 The Angler E6 6c * 12
198 The Wimp 7c * 19
199 The Wussy 8a 1
200 The Sissy 8a * 59
201 Zeke the Freak 8b *** 28
202 The Bastard 8c+ **  
203 Truely Awesome 7a+ * 28
204 Rubicon 7a *** 646
205 Rubicon Start f4+ 38
206 Left Flank f5 19
207 Zeitgeist 7b * 83
208 No Jug, No Thug E5 6b * 2
209 Cruising the Seven Seas E6 6b *  
210 The Bomb is Coming 7a * 15
211 Direct Hit 7b 3
212 Toenail Left f6A+ 133
213 Toenail Pie E2 5b 24
214 Toenail Pie Start f5 * 254
215 Debris
-
E4 5c 4
216 Debris Groove f6A * 118
217 The Debris Dyno f6C ** 39
218 Crimps and Pockets f6B+ 151
219 Peg's Path f6B 143
220 Peg's Right f6B * 35
221 Sharp Pockets f5+ * 185
222 Warm-up Traverse f4+ 290
223 Low Break f6B+ ** 125
224 Middle Break f6A * 213
225 Top Break f5+ * 226
226 Three tier test piece f7B * 9
227 Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
-
E3 6c 3
228 Approach Traverse f7A ** 48
229 Small But Perfectly Formed 7a+ 26
230 Full Traverse Rubicon * f7C ** 1
  Waterfall buttress
232 Rapture 7b ** 2
233 In the Flesh 7a * 7
234 Looking For Diversion 7c+ * 2
  Moat Buttress
236 Nude Moatorcycle Girl 7a 5
237 Out of the Shadows 7b * 4
238 Another Moatside Attraction 7a+ * 6
239 Moat Madness
-
E5 6b * 1
240 Sheer Power E5 6b  
241 Sheerwater E1 5b * 5
242 The Lady of the Lake 7a+ * 12
243 D.T.'s Route
-
E5 6b  
244 Garderobe 7b+ ** 35
245 Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks 7c 20
246 King Arthritis 7b+ ** 27
247 Excalibur 7b+ ** 37
248 No Mud, No Thud 7b+ 15
249 A Bigger Thud 7c * 14
250 A Bigger Splat 7a * 48
251 Let the Tripe Increase 7c ** 60
252 Over the Moorhens 7b+ * 21
253 Lemmy at it 7b+ 3
254 All Hands to the Pump 7c+ 2
255 Moatorhead 7b+ ** 81
256 Coming up for Air 7c * 47
257 Moat People 7b+ ** 228
258 Moat Afloat 7a 13
259 Afloat in the Moat 6c+ * 321
260 Castaway 6c+ 70
261 Piranha Wall E4 3
262 Triton E4 5c 6
263 Jaws ll E5 6b  
264 The Flying Dutchman E6 6c *  
265 Two Sheep to Leicester 7a+ * 31
266 Searching for the Yeti 7b * 8
267 Moat Wall E5 1
268 Moat Race 6c+ 6
269 Moat Puddings E5 2
270 Castle Puddings 6b+ 5
271 Ha -Ha it's Billy no mats 7b+ **  
  Moat/Majorca Bouldering
273 Pinch Punch (Left Hand) f6C 1
274 Pinch Punch f7A 6
275 Tiger Style f7A 7
276 Uptown Top Ranking f7B 5
277 Jacobs' Cracker f7C 3
  Majorca Crunch Buttress
279 You Got No Reason 7a  
280 Rhyme Crime 7a+ 1
281 Who got Rhyme 6c 11
282 Rhyme and Reason 6c * 25
283 Reserve Judgement 7a 16
284 Happy Days 6c+ * 11
285 Oh Dear! 6c+ * 37
286 Four Men Tour 6c * 59
287 Val de Mossa 6c+ 14
288 Blanca Expression 7a * 6
289 The Majorca Alternative 7a+ * 30
290 Costa del Jolly 7a * 21
291 Wish you were here 6b 36
292 Do I? 6b+ 20
293 Mission Impossible 8a+ * 1
294 Karma Killer 8b ** 3
295 Agent Provocateur 8a+ ** 10
296 Secret Agent 8a+ * 1
297 perfecto 7c+ 1
298 Trainer Tamer 7b+ 2
299 Breakbeat 8a *  
300 One on One 7a+ 1
301 Under Western Eyes E5 6b  
  Swamp Wall
303 Dappled
-
4a  
304 Hombre
-
5c 9
305 Condom Nations
-
6b 9
Climb name Grade
306 Land Nodule
-
6a+ 8
307 King Kane
-
5a 7
308 Friday Club
-
6a+ 7
309 Anyday Club
-
6a 2
310 Spiraling Out 6b+ 1
311 The Power Grab 7a+ 1
312 Yard Sale
-
7a+  
313 Helter Skelter
-
6c+  
314 Margins of My Mind
-
6b+ 2
315 Swamp Fever
-
7a+  
316 Tsetse Piece
-
7a+  
317 Gnat Attack
-
7a  
318 One Greenbottle
-
7a+  
319 Bluebottle Life
-
6c  
  The Cornice
321 Alpha Groove
-
VD  
322 Sting in the Tail
-
E4 6a  
323 Puffy White Flesh
-
E2 6a  
324 Crystalline
-
S 1
325 The Gully 1933
-
S 4b 2
326 Bandwagon on Direction
-
E5 6a  
327 The Bulge 1984 E5 6b 4
328 The Thatcher Years
-
E5 6b 16
329 Nothing to Help the Poor E5 6b 1
330 The Workhouse 7a+ 3
331 Poorlaw
-
6c+ 1
332 A Major Moment
-
6c+ 24
333 Supplementary Benefit
-
7a+ 13
334 Incapacity Benefit 7a+ ** 164
335 The Dole 1989 7c * 18
336 Yorkshire 8b 8a * 5
337 Ape Index 8b+ * 3
338 The Weakling 7c+ ** 6
339 Brachiation Dance 7b+ *** 236
340 The Free Monster 8a *** 92
341 The Auctioneer 8a+ *** 12
342 Rumble in the Jungle 8a+ *** 20
343 Monsterosity 8b *** 8
344 Albatrossity 8a+ *** 10
345 Superfly 8a+ ** 1
346 Eclipsed 8a+ ** 1
347 The Disillusioned Glue Machine 8a ** 12
348 Empire Burlesque 7c+ * 7
349 The Nasty Man 7c * 3
350 Goldcrest 8a * 3
351 Sirius 7c+ * 2
352 Atilla the Hun 7a+ 5
353 Catch the Rainbow 6c 33
354 Superocity 8a+ ** 1
355 Barbarossity 8a+ ** 4
356 Releasable Abseil 1 * 1
  Two Tier Buttress
358 Tierfull
-
6b 5
359 My Tiers led up to This
-
6b * 12
360 Tiery Henry
-
6b * 15
361 Under-Tiered
-
6c * 9
  Witchcraft Wall
363 Spellbound
-
HVS 5c 2
364 Witchcraft Wall
-
E3 6b  
365 Belladonna
-
7b+ * 7
366 Sabbra Cadabra 6c+ * 2
367 Black Sabbath
-
HVS 5b  
368 Let Rip 7b  
369 Vicar's Vertigo
-
E1 5b 11
370 Sermon Wall
-
VS 2
371 Ringleader E1 5c * 1
372 Confusion
-
E3 6b 1
373 Ribcrusher Crack
-
VS 5a 2
374 White Riot E4 6a * 1
  Central Buttress
376 Ringing Chimney
-
D 2
377 Tiddle-de-Dum 6c 4
378 Te Deum E3 5b  
379 Hammy Hamster's Last Rites E3 5c * 4
380 Chiming Crack E4 6a * 5
381 Dangerous Liaisons 7b+ * 1
382 Hemmingway's Horror E2 5c * 11
383 Carillon Crack E3 5c * 7
384 Silent Storm E5 6a * 1
385 Carol's Crack E3 5c * 9
386 The Importance of Being Ernest E4 6a  
387 The Bellringer E2 5c 13
388 It Tolls for Thee 6c+ * 22
389 Vapour Stream 7a+ * 12
390 La Belle Age E5 6b * 5
391 En Masse Descendre E6 6b * 3
392 In Bulk E6 6b ** 9
393 Leviathan E5 6b * 7
394 St. Paul
-
E3 5c * 41
395 St. Paul Direct E3 6a * 9
396 Paulliac 7c ** 5
397 Behemoth E5 6b *** 35
398 That'll Do Nicely E5 6b 3
399 Yankee Dollar
-
E5 6b 1
400 The Treadmill 7b * 16
401 Fort Knox E5 6a 2
402 Fort Knox Direct 7b * 4
403 The Troll E3 6a 11
404 Crumbling Cracks HVS 4b 5
405 Squatter's Rights HVS 4c  
406 My Fickle Resolve 6c+ * 45
407 Une Jour Parfait 7b * 7
408 Warhead 6c 6
409 Fire on Water 7b+ ** 6
410 The Alien E4 6b *** 45
411 Aliens E6 6c * 1
412 White Fright
-
E6 6b *  
413 Knuckle Knocker E3 5c * 21
414 War E5 6a 9
415 Freedom is Insane 7a * 64
416 Hairy Legs E3 6a 6
417 Aftervision E2 5c 2
418 Deja Vu 6c * 26
419 Heatwave HVS 5a 1
420 No Chains on Me 6c+ * 34
421 The Chain Gang 6c+ * 23
422 The Chain Gang (Trad) 6c+ * 1
423 Escape Artist 7a+ * 12
424 Cool Hand Luke E5 6b 9
425 Disparagement/Epithet 7a+ * 4
426 Disparagement (Trad) E5 6a 2
427 The Rocky Horror Picture Show: Let's Do the Time Warp Again 7c ** 1
428 Time Warp (Trad) E4 6b 1
429 Fatal Attraction 7a+ ** 38
430 Fatal Hesitation 7b+ * 3
431 Sox E5 6a * 4
432 La Brute 7a * 41
433 La Chute E5 6b ** 8
434 La Route 7a * 29
435 Coldity Groove E3 5c 4
436 Coldity Crack E1 5b 8
437 C'est Plastique 6c 78
438 Plastic Wonder VS 4c  
439 Plastic Blinkers HVS 5b  
440 Gwendoline HVS 5a 3
441 Orient route D  
442 Dis-orientated 6b+ 7
443 Strange Beings E5 6b * 2
444 Fools Rush In
-
E1 5c 3
  Mill Buttress
446 Top Tips E3 6a ** 1
447 Tip Toe Wall HVS 5a 3
448 Crepitus 7a+ * 5
449 Sonorous 6c * 7
450 Yukon Groove VD * 1
451 Mill Street Blues 6c+ * 8
452 Scoopy Little Number E2 5b * 4
453 Inner Laugh 7b * 2
454 Novelty E3 6b 1
455 Ten Stretch 6b+ 2
456 One Way Stretch E4 6b * 3
457 Hollow Way 6c+ * 2
458 Resin Erection Shuffle E1 5b * 3
459 Black Lurcher 7b * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers kristian and Stoney Boy