Climbs 387
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 205m a.s.l
Faces S

Rubicon wall © Ryan83

Crag features

The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller’s Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Access in WCJ is very sensitive so please follow the described approaches and notes included with each buttress introduction very carefully. The rights to the north riverbank in WCJ is owned by an angling club. They are willing to allow climbers and walkers access to the dale but please do nothing to disturb their fishing activities. The section including Jackdaw Point, Upper Circle and Ping Pong Area is a wildlife reserve owned and managed by Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. They are willing to allow climbing on these three buttresses but only within strict limits and providing climbers use the described approaches only. There should be no new routes and no gardening of any kind on these buttresses. The other sections, including the south bank, are owned by various land owners. Access to these buttresses isn't a problem but climbers should make as little disturbance as possible since the whole dale is important for wildlife of all kinds. Apart from lower-offs, no extra gear should be left on the routes, this includes fixed slings and krabs.

Approach notes

Litton Mill Approach - From the B6049 Tideswell to Miller's Dale road, take the sharp turn towards Litton Mill and past the Angler's Rest pub. Park at the small parking spot about 200m past Raven Tor and just before the signs dissuading you from continuing to the village. Follow the road on foot and continue past the old mill (now apartments) onto the valley bottom path.
Cressbrook Approach - Descend into Monsal Dale and follow the valley bottom road all the way to Cressbrook. Park here on the roadside opposite the new flats development in the old mill. A well-marked path leads up into the dale proper. As Rubicon Wall comes into view there is a bridge on the left which leads to the south bank and the Cornice.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
The sport route near Thatcher Years is in fact called "Incapacity Benift". A few people need to edit their logs!
kristian - 01/Oct/08
Need to add The Auctioneer 8a+ kieth Sharples July 2001. Left of Rumble. Eclipsed 8b Steve fearn Aug 99 L of glue machine. Ape Index Steve mclure Aug 2000 8b+ R of Yorkshire 8b. Gold Cresr hard 7C+ Right of Glue Machine Also best routes on Crag are Albatrocity (best 8a+ in Peak) Auctioneer, Brachiation, Freemonster and Monsterocity.
Simon Reed - 24/Oct/03
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Vision Buttress
2 Sunshine Super Frog
-
E6 6c 1
3 The Vision
-
E6 6c ** 2
4 Knocked Out Loaded
-
E6 6c ** 2
5 Agrippa's Knees
-
E6 6b  
  Jackdaw Point
7 Ground Control E1 5b 2
8 Skyline Pigeon
-
E5 6b  
9 Armed With an Empty Gun E4 6a * 2
10 Erithacus E2 5b * 33
11 Army Dreamers E2 5c * 30
12 Final Sacrifice E1 5b 1
13 Fledgling Flakes HVS 5b * 22
14 Burning Up Time E3 6a * 17
15 Nervous and Shaky E4 6a  
16 Fledgling VS 4c 12
17 Trial Run
-
VS 4c 2
18 First Flight HVS 5a 5
19 Palmolive E1 5c * 22
20 Endless Flight E2 5c * 21
21 Fear of Flying E2 5b * 28
22 Flight Path VS 4b 3
23 Victory Roll
-
VS 4c 2
24 Capricorn One E3 5c * 1
  Upper Circle
26 Hesitation Dance
-
E5 6a  
27 Specialist E4 6c  
28 Pragma 8a+ *  
29 Eat the Rich 7c * 14
30 Three Spheres 8b ** 2
31 The Inch Test 8a+ ** 5
32 Psychic Emulator E3 6b  
33 Splinter in the Mind's Eye E2 6b 1
34 Sweet William E2 5c * 6
35 Western Samoa E4 6b 1
36 Dead Tree Groove E2 5c * 19
37 Palace of Tyranny E1 5b  
38 Trench Warfare E2 5b  
39 Sweet FA E1 5b 1
40 Dead Tree Crack E1 5b * 11
41 Reptar on Ice
-
E1 5b  
42 Christmas Cracks
-
VS 4c 9
43 Euroman
-
HVS 5a 5
44 Looking Good
-
E4 6a  
45 Nidhšgg Loves Jormungand
-
E3 6a  
46 Cicatrix HVS 5a 2
47 Going Bush
-
E5 6c  
  Ping Pong Area
49 Jungle Jim
-
E2 5b 2
50 Tree Dweller's Crack
-
E3 6a 1
51 Deception E4 6a ** 22
52 Rio Verde E4 6b * 5
53 Confidence Trick 7b+  
54 Matto Grosso Chimney
-
VS 4c 1
55 Mandrake E5 6a ** 10
56 Chistiliano Wall
-
E4 6b  
57 Marsh Dweller's Rib
-
E3 6a 1
58 The Ponger VS 4b 1
59 Ping HVS 5b ** 89
60 Ping Pong E1 5b ** 79
61 Desmond Douglas E2 5c * 14
62 Pong
-
E1 5b 5
63 The Creative Urge
-
HVS 5b  
64 Virgin's Crack
-
VS 4b 14
65 Sour Grapes E1 6a 3
66 Stupid Cupid E3 5c * 1
67 Lost Tribes * E3 5c * 1
  Psyche's Buttress
69 The Arrow S 1
70 Summons
-
E4 5c  
71 Nappy Squad
-
E5 6b  
72 Dreams of Leaving
-
E2 5c  
73 Love is the Drug
-
6c+ 2
74 The Still Small Voice
-
E3 5c ** 4
75 Strip Search
-
E2 5c  
76 Bow String Groove
-
VS 4
77 Early One Morning
-
E2 5b,5c 1
78 The Keep
-
S 5
79 The Fairy
-
D 1
  Lammergeyer Buttress
81 Zob
-
E2 6a  
82 Part-time Hobby
-
E2 5b  
83 Aquarian Warriors
-
E5 6b  
84 The Lammergeyer Twins E5 6b 1
85 As Summers Die 7a+ 3
86 One Way Reflection E5 6b *  
87 Pinch an Inch 7b+ * 7
88 Final Apocalypse 7a+ * 14
89 The Myth of Masculinity 7a+ 1
90 Mr. Puniverse 7a+ 2
91 The Ego has Landed 7b+ 3
92 The Amnicolist Spies on the Black Submarine E5 6b 1
93 Living with a Porcupine 7a 5
94 Once upon a Time 7a+ 1
95 Tree Surgeon 7b 1
96 The Fall 8a ** 5
97 Vindicator 7c+ ** 14
98 SkyFall 7c+ * 5
  Rubicon - Left
100 Alimoany 7b+ 6
101 The Honeymoon Is Over 7c 4
102 Decree Nici 7b+ 9
103 Second honeymoon 7a 6
104 Honeymoon Blues E5 6b * 9
105 Salar 8a * 21
106 Slapin 7c * 11
107 Slapdasher 7a * 28
108 Lapin E3 5c 8
109 Welsh Rarebit 6b+ * 51
110 Blue Eyed Myxamatoid
-
E3 5c 1
111 The Brer Faced Cheek of It
-
6a 6
112 Hare E3 5c 2
113 Changing Fortunes E4 6b 1
114 Chairs Missing E4 6b * 10
115 A Tall Story E5 6c * 1
116 Dragonflight E3 5c ** 80
117 The Dragon Flight Traverse f6A+ * 53
118 Jezebel E5 6a ** 13
119 Kingfisher E5 6c * 4
120 Jaws E5 6b * 8
121 Plectrum Maxilla Direct E7 6c *  
122 Barracuda 8b * 1
123 Barracuda Start f7C+ *  
124 Caviar 8a+ *** 18
125 Caviar Start f7B * 12
126 Beluga 8a+ * 4
127 Eugenics 8b+  
128 Let the Tribe Increase 8a * 13
129 Dangerous Tribes 8a * 2
130 The Dangerous Brothers 8a ** 18
131 Too Old to be Bold 7c * 86
132 Coot E4 6a 10
133 Piranha E6 6b *** 9
134 Piranha Start f7A * 42
135 Piranha Traverse f7A+ * 7
136 Cora E6 6c * 2
137 White Bait E5 6c ** 7
138 White Bait (start) f6C 29
139 Flake Out Shake Out E4 6c  
  Kudos Wall
141 A Miller's Tale E5 6b ** 14
142 A Miller's Tale Start f6B+ ** 383
143 Miller's Tail Eliminate (avoid holds on R) * f6C+ 4
144 Kudos f7B ** 170
145 Kudos Original f7C * 15
146 Kudos - the Hard Way f7B * 25
147 Kudos Hard Way Sit Start f7B+ 4
148 Kudos Sit Start f7B+ * 14
149 Kudos Original Sit Start f7C+ 3
150 Kudos traverse
-
f7B ** 49
151 The Pinch f7B+ * 3
152 Hot Fun Closing 8a ** 34
153 A Bigger Tail f7A ** 202
154 Johnny G f7C 9
155 A Bigger Tail (route) 7b+ ** 52
156 A Bigger Tail Stand Start f7C * 1
157 A Bigger Belly f8B *  
158 The Press f7B+ ** 63
159 The Press - Kneeling Start f7C+ * 6
160 The Press - Low Right Start f8A ** 2
161 The Press - Low Left Start f8A+ ** 1
162 A Bigger Splash f7A+ * 99
163 A Bigger Splash Direct f7B *** 134
164 Bigger Splash Direct - Kneeling Start f7C ** 18
165 Bigger Splash Direct - Low Right Start f7C ** 6
166 A Bigger Prize f6B+ ** 230
167 Tsunami f8A ** 20
168 Tsunamish f7C+ * 2
169 Dancing Fish f8A ** 5
170 Dancing Fish Standing f7B *** 14
171 Peg's Path Right * f6B 4
  Rubicon - Right
173 Water Baliff
-
HVS 4c 3
174 Freewheeler
-
HVS 4c 1
175 The Terror of the Seven Seas 7c * 7
176 Professor Kirk 7b+ * 5
177 Maureen 6c+ 2
178 Point of no return 6c 10
179 Last But Not Least 7a * 48
180 Trunk of Punk 7a 14
181 Sperm Worm
-
E5 6a 2
182 Dumb Animal
-
E5 6a 1
183 The Pinch Test 7c+ * 4
184 The Angler E6 6c * 1
185 The Wimp 7c * 11
186 The Sissy 8a * 69
187 Zeke the Freak 8b *** 16
188 The Bastard 8c+ **  
189 Truely Awesome 7a+ * 16
190 Rubicon 7a *** 629
191 Rubicon Start f4+ 12
192 Left Flank f5 8
193 Zeitgeist 7b * 78
194 No Jug, No Thug E5 6b * 2
195 Cruising the Seven Seas E6 6b * 1
196 The Bomb is Coming 7a * 14
197 Toenail Left f6A+ 116
198 Toenail Pie E2 5b 21
199 Toenail Pie Start f5 * 213
200 Debris
-
E4 5c 5
201 Debris Groove f6A * 101
202 The Debris Dyno f6C ** 32
203 Crimps and Pockets f6B+ 116
204 Peg's Path f6B 127
205 Peg's Right f6B * 15
206 Sharp Pockets f5+ * 148
207 Warm-up Traverse f4+ 240
208 Low Break f6B+ ** 104
209 Middle Break f6A * 189
210 Top Break f5+ * 186
211 Skippy the Bush Kangaroo Weird
-
E3 6c 3
212 Approach Traverse f7A ** 27
213 Small But Perfectly Formed 7a+ 22
  Waterfall buttress
215 In the Flesh 7a * 4
  Moat Buttress
217 Nude Moatorcycle Girl 7a 5
218 Out of the Shadows 7b * 5
219 Another Moatside Attraction 7a+ * 7
220 Moat Madness
-
E5 6b * 2
221 Sheer Power E5 6b  
222 Sheerwater E1 5b * 4
223 The Lady of the Lake
-
E5 6b * 7
224 D.T.'s Route
-
E5 6b  
225 Garderobe 7b+ ** 13
226 Drawbridge Down When the Levee Breaks 7c 12
227 King Arthritis 7b+ ** 12
228 Excalibur 7b+ ** 26
229 No Mud, No Thud 7b+ 12
230 A Bigger Thud 7c * 12
231 A Bigger Splat 7a * 33
232 Let the Tripe Increase 7c ** 53
233 Over the Moorhens 7b+ * 13
234 All Hands to the Pump 7c+ 1
235 Moatorhead 7b+ ** 64
236 Coming up for Air 7c * 21
237 Moat People 7b+ ** 179
238 Afloat in the Moat 6c+ * 221
239 Castaway 6c+ 25
240 Piranha Wall E4 4
241 Triton E4 5c 7
242 Jaws ll E5 6b 1
243 The Flying Dutchman E6 6c *  
244 Two Sheep to Leicester 7a+ * 24
245 Searching for the Yeti 7b * 5
246 Moat Wall E5 1
247 Moat Race 6c+ 7
248 Moat Puddings E5 2
249 Castle Puddings 6b+ 5
  Moat/Majorca Bouldering
251 Pinch Punch (Left Hand) f6C 1
252 Pinch Punch f7A 5
253 Tiger Style f7A 7
254 Uptown Top Ranking f7B 3
255 Jacobs' Cracker f7C 2
  Majorca Crunch Buttress
257 You Got No Reason 7a  
258 Rhyme Crime 7a+ 1
259 Who got Rhyme 6c 7
260 Rhyme and Reason 6c * 16
261 Reserve Judgement 7a 15
262 Happy Days 6c+ * 8
263 Oh Dear! 6c+ * 25
264 Four Men Tour 6c * 42
265 Val de Mossa 6c+ 11
266 Blanca Expression 7a * 4
267 The Majorca Alternative 7a+ * 28
268 Costa del Jolly 7a * 16
269 Wish you were here 6b 29
270 Do I? 6b+ 18
271 Mission Impossible 8a+ * 1
272 Karma Killer 8b ** 3
273 Agent Provocateur 8a+ ** 7
274 Secret Agent 8a+ * 1
275 perfecto 7c+ 1
276 Trainer Tamer 7b+ 2
277 Breakbeat 8a *  
278 One on One 7a+ 1
279 Under Western Eyes E5 6b  
  The Cornice
281 Alpha Groove
-
VD  
282 Sting in the Tail
-
E4 6a  
283 Puffy White Flesh
-
E2 6a  
284 Crystalline
-
S 1
285 The Gully 1933
-
S 4b 2
286 Bandwagon on Direction
-
E5 6a  
287 The Bulge 1984 E5 6b 3
288 The Thatcher Years
-
E5 6b 16
289 Nothing to Help the Poor E5 6b 2
290 The Workhouse 7a+ 3
291 Poorlaw
-
6c+ 1
292 A Major Moment
-
6c+ 15
293 Supplementary Benefit
-
7a+ 10
294 Incapacity Benefit 7a+ ** 134
295 The Dole 1989 7c * 15
296 Yorkshire 8b 8a * 4
297 Ape Index 8b+ * 5
298 The Weakling 7c+ ** 7
299 Brachiation Dance 7b+ *** 227
300 The Free Monster 8a *** 94
301 The Auctioneer 8a+ *** 9
302 Rumble in the Jungle 8a+ *** 15
303 Monsterosity 8b *** 10
304 Albatrossity 8a+ *** 8
305 Superfly 8a+ ** 1
306 Eclipsed 8a+ ** 1
307 The Disillusioned Glue Machine 8a ** 9
308 Empire Burlesque 7c+ * 7
309 The Nasty Man 7c * 3
310 Goldcrest 8a * 2
311 Sirius 7c+ * 3
312 Atilla the Hun 7a+ 6
313 Catch the Rainbow 6c 23
314 Superocity 8a+ ** 1
315 Barbarossity 8a+ ** 2
316 Releasable Abseil 1 * 1
  Two Tier Buttress
318 Tierfull
-
6b 3
319 My Tiers led up to This
-
6b * 7
320 Tiery Henry
-
6b * 7
321 Under-Tiered
-
6c * 5
  Witchcraft Wall
323 Spellbound
-
HVS 5c 2
324 Witchcraft Wall
-
E3 6b 1
325 Belladonna
-
7b * 6
326 Black Sabbath
-
HVS 5b  
327 Vicar's Vertigo
-
E1 5b 9
328 Sermon Wall
-
VS 1
329 Confusion
-
E3 6b 1
330 Ribcrusher Crack
-
VS 5a 1
  Central Buttress
332 Ringing Chimney
-
D 2
333 Tiddle-de-Dum 6c 3
334 Te Deum E3 5b 1
335 Hammy Hamster's Last Rites E2 5c * 4
336 Chiming Crack E4 6a * 6
337 Dangerous Liaisons E5 6b * 2
338 Carillon Crack E3 5c * 6
339 Silent Storm E5 6a * 1
340 Carol's Crack E3 5c * 8
341 Hemmingway's Horror E2 5c * 10
342 The Importance of Being Ernest E4 6a 1
343 The Bellringer E2 5c 10
344 It Tolls for Thee 6c+ * 17
345 Vapour Stream 7a+ * 7
346 La Belle Age E6 6b * 6
347 En Masse Descendre E6 6b * 1
348 In Bulk E6 6b ** 5
349 Leviathan E5 6b * 3
350 St. Paul
-
E3 5c * 33
351 St Paul Direct Start E3 6a * 7
352 Paulliac 7c ** 4
353 Behemoth E5 6b *** 39
354 That'll Do Nicely E5 6b 4
355 Yankee Dollar
-
E5 6b 2
356 The Treadmill 7b * 14
357 Fort Knox E5 6a 3
358 Fort Knox Direct 7b * 5
359 The Troll E3 6a 9
360 Crumbling Cracks HVS 4b 5
361 Squatter's Rights HVS 4c  
362 My Fickle Resolve 6c+ * 30
363 Une Jour Parfait 7b * 5
364 Warhead E3 6a 3
365 Fire on Water 7b+ ** 7
366 The Alien E4 6b *** 39
367 Aliens E6 6c *  
368 White Fright
-
E6 6b * 1
369 Knuckle Knocker E3 5c * 16
370 War E5 6a 7
371 Freedom is Insane 7a * 39
372 Hairy Legs E3 6a 6
373 Aftervision E2 5c 3
374 Deja Vu 6c * 16
375 Heatwave HVS 5a 1
376 No Chains on Me 6c+ * 18
377 The Chain Gang 6c+ * 13
378 The Chain Gang (Trad) 6c+ * 1
379 Escape Artist 7a+ * 12
380 Cool Hand Luke E5 6b 10
381 Disparagement E5 6a 3
382 Time Warp E4 6b 1
383 Fatal Attraction 7a+ ** 30
384 Fatal Hesitation 7b+ * 2
385 Sox E5 6a * 4
386 La Brute 7a * 28
387 La Chute E5 6b ** 7
388 La Route E4 6a * 12
389 Coldity Groove E3 5c 4
390 Coldity Crack E1 5b 8
391 C'est Plastique 6c 45
392 Plastic Wonder VS 4c  
393 Plastic Blinkers HVS 5b  
394 Gwendoline HVS 5a 3
395 Orient route D  
396 Dis-orientated 6b+ 6
397 Strange Beings E5 6b * 3
398 Fools Rush In
-
E1 5c 3
  Mill Buttress
400 Top Tips E3 6a ** 1
401 Tip Toe Wall HVS 5a 2
402 Yukon Groove VD *  
403 Mill Street Blues 6c+ * 3
404 Scoopy Little Number E2 5b * 1
405 Novelty E3 6b 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer kristian