Climbs 230
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 132m a.s.l
Faces W

Abbing off at Wildcat..... © Dave Williams

Crag features

Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Approach notes

From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.

To reach the Woodbank Tor area, follow a small path heading right from the main crag. It peters out at the point that the crags on the left disappear into the hillside, and you can see the weir directly below. Descend a wide earthy couloir, steep and loose near the bottom, to emerge at the foot of the crag.

http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf

Access Advice

Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Access back to normal now, the barrier across bridge has gone and lots of rock scattewred all along from bridge to path going to crag. Beware of loose block on Broken toe groove. 3 blocks came out today, from just below the bulge on the 2nd pitch, there is another which might drop as well soon. its just above where the others were.
Paul Hy - 07/Sep/15
http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf
Lukem6 - 12/Jun/15
Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.
Lukem6 - 14/Apr/15
What happened to Upper Tor? Liberty Cap etc?
Bulls Crack - 13/Jul/14
crag log book could do with a bit of moderating
Lukem6 - 30/Sep/13
I'd love to head back with a decent guide book. We did a decent multipitch route I reckon about a VS 4c enjoyed it.
EDB4YLI55 - 19/Aug/13
awesome crag, if you want to know more go to http://gachieve.blogspot.com/ for crag review
Lukem6 - 07/Jul/11
Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator - 03/May/11
I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 - 27/Jul/10
Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Apr/09
I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  New Bridge Buttress
2 Criminally Insane 7a+ 2
3 Trick Psychlist 7c+ 1
4 Strait Psychlist 7a+ * 7
5 Strait Jacket 7a * 51
6 Recoil 6b+ * 82
7 Shock Treatment 7a 26
8 Lunatic Asylum HVS 5c 18
9 The Mentalist 7a+ 15
10 Borstal Breakout
-
VS 4b 5
  Slippery Slabs
12 Pink Panther VS 4c 5
13 Original Route S 19
14 Slippery Slabs Direct
-
VS 4c * 33
15 Whisker
-
VS 4c * 14
16 Bobcat
-
VS 4b 9
17 Brew Eleven
-
VD 10
18 Zaza
-
HVS 5a 2
  Puma Buttress
20 Puma Arete VS 7
21 Puma Direct
-
HVS 5a * 15
22 Puma Crack VS 8
23 Another Time E2 5b * 13
24 Tom Cat
-
HVS 4c * 7
25 Spectrum
-
VS 4c 2
  Coyote Buttress
27 New Exile E1 5b 5
28 Cat Call
-
VS 4c * 30
29 The Traverse E1 5c *** 7
30 Caterpillar's Crawl
-
HVS 5a * 16
31 Puss Moth
-
HVS 5a 4
32 Catacomb Direct
-
HVS 5a * 32
33 Catastrophe Grooves HVS 5a ** 246
34 White Room HVS 5a * 22
35 Lyon Route E1 5b * 66
36 Cat Cull E2 5c * 1
37 Coyote Buttress HVS 5a ** 249
38 Derek's Dilemma VS 5a * 206
39 Broken Toe Groove VS 4c * 351
40 Jackdaw Grooves VS 4b ** 554
41 Nine Lives Wall HVS 5a * 203
42 Catharsis Wall HVS 5a 42
43 Cats Eye S 4a 353
44 Budweisser Effect HVS 4c 26
45 McPlumb Wall HVS 4c * 78
46 Negative 'G'
-
HVS 5b * 5
47 Cougar Cleft HS 4a 72
48 Tiger Route 1 VS 4c * 102
49 Tiger Route 2 VS 4c 18
50 Wandering Tiger VS 5a * 3
51 Ripsnorter VS 4b * 23
52 Steel Pulse HVS 5a 4
53 Sourpuss VS 4c * 80
54 Pupilla VS 4c * 209
55 Cat Walk HS 4a ** 346
56 Still Waters E1 5c 1
  High Crag
58 Manx VS 4b * 255
59 Grand Prix E1 5b * 6
60 Golden Yardstick VS 5a *** 658
61 Golden Yardstick Direct E1 5c * 4
62 Lobo VS 4b * 207
63 Tut's Anomalous E1 5b ** 114
64 The Catcuss Furballs Connection E5 6b * 5
65 Clash of Arms E4 6b * 3
66 Mr Dog E5 6b *  
67 Stolen Jewel E5 6b * 1
68 Great Cleft E2 5c ** 76
69 Lynx HS 4b *** 622
70 Sphynx VS 5a ** 220
71 Climacteric VS 5a ** 170
72 Octopuss HVS 5a 8
73 Cataclysm HVS 5a *** 432
74 Metamorphosis HVS 5b * 31
75 Timing X E1 5b * 16
76 End Game HVS 5a * 6
  Unsorted
78 Liberty Cap
-
E2 5c ** 10
79 Great Crack E2 5c ** 26
80 Sunset Creek E1 5b ** 38
81 Go Go Grooves HVS 5a ** 27
82 Puma Passage
-
VS 4b * 20
83 Tiger Chimney
-
VD 6
84 Catacomb
-
VS 4c 18
85 Manky Meander
-
VS 4b 8
86 Felix Arete
-
HS 4a 7
87 Bird Lime Corner
-
MS * 4
88 The Ferreter
-
HS 4a * 2
89 Cracker Jack
-
HVD *** 17
90 Long Route
-
HS 4a 9
91 Wedge Buttress
-
S * 6
92 Mackering VS 4c * 8
93 Tiger Tim VS 4c 7
94 Blurb HVS 5a * 4
95 Kit-E-Kat
-
VS 3
96 Coyote Crack
-
VS ** 10
97 Green Cracks VS 3
98 Terminal
-
E2 5c 2
99 Return of the Native
-
E4 6a 1
100 Down, Down to Hell and Say I Sent Thee Thither E2 5c ** 1
101 Blue Grass Special HVS 5a * 5
102 Drop D 1
103 Shoe S 4b 1
104 Dodge S 4c 1
105 After VS 5b 1
106 Sooner or Later HVS 5b * 1
107 Top Cat VS 4c 9
108 Schoolboy Scoop
-
VD * 1
109 Overhang
-
MVS 4b * 5
110 Old Joe Clark D 1
111 Ground Hog VD 1
112 Shelter's End VS 4b 1
113 Roof Groove
-
VD 2
114 Clang
-
VS 4b 1
115 Fisherman's Wall VS 4b 1
116 Puma Chimney
-
VD 3
117 Chatti Chimney
-
HS 4a 3
118 Feline
-
HS 6
119 Diagonal S 2
120 End Scoop S 1
121 Leafy lane E1 5b 2
122 Wall End Crack S 1
123 Green Slab VD 2
124 Broken Groove S 1
125 Split Prow S 1
126 Chocker Block VD 3
127 Rib Wrecker VS 4c 2
128 Curving Chimney MVS 4a 1
129 High Bank Crack VS 5a 2
130 Deep Chimney HS 4b 2
131 Split Wall MS 3
132 Slab Route D 2
133 Jumper VD 1
134 Zipper S 1
135 Slow Feedback E1 5b * 1
136 Banjo Flake E1 5b * 4
137 Ukelele Wall VS 4c 3
138 Molybdenum E2 5c 4
139 Reality Clause E2 5b 3
140 Koala E1 5b 1
141 Shades of Grey HVS 5a 3
142 Cool Cat
-
HVS 1
143 No Pulse HVS 5a 1
144 Fragile Glass HVS 5a 1

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