UKC

Climbs 230
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 132m a.s.l
Faces W

Abbing off at Wildcat..... © Dave Williams

Crag features

Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Approach notes

From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.

To reach the Woodbank Tor area, follow a small path heading right from the main crag. It peters out at the point that the crags on the left disappear into the hillside, and you can see the weir directly below. Descend a wide earthy couloir, steep and loose near the bottom, to emerge at the foot of the crag.

http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf

Access Advice

Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Access back to normal now, the barrier across bridge has gone and lots of rock scattewred all along from bridge to path going to crag. Beware of loose block on Broken toe groove. 3 blocks came out today, from just below the bulge on the 2nd pitch, there is another which might drop as well soon. its just above where the others were.
Paul Hy - 07/Sep/15
http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf
Lukem6 - 12/Jun/15
Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.
Lukem6 - 14/Apr/15
What happened to Upper Tor? Liberty Cap etc?
Bulls Crack - 13/Jul/14
crag log book could do with a bit of moderating
Lukem6 - 30/Sep/13
I'd love to head back with a decent guide book. We did a decent multipitch route I reckon about a VS 4c enjoyed it.
EDB4YLI55 - 19/Aug/13
awesome crag, if you want to know more go to http://gachieve.blogspot.com/ for crag review
Lukem6 - 07/Jul/11
Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator - 03/May/11
I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 - 27/Jul/10
Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Apr/09
I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  New Bridge Buttress
2 Criminally Insane 7a+ 2
3 Trick Psychlist 7c+ 1
4 Strait Psychlist 7a+ * 7
5 Strait Jacket 7a * 52
6 Recoil 6b+ * 81
7 Shock Treatment 7a 26
8 Lunatic Asylum HVS 5c 18
9 The Mentalist 7a+ 15
10 Borstal Breakout
-
VS 4b 5
  Slippery Slabs
12 Pink Panther VS 4c 5
13 Original Route S 19
14 Slippery Slabs Direct
-
VS 4c * 33
15 Whisker
-
VS 4c * 14
16 Bobcat
-
VS 4b 9
17 Brew Eleven
-
VD 10
18 Zaza
-
HVS 5a 2
  Puma Buttress
20 Puma Arete VS 7
21 Puma Direct
-
HVS 5a * 16
22 Puma Crack VS 8
23 Another Time E2 5b * 13
24 Tom Cat
-
HVS 4c * 7
25 Spectrum
-
VS 4c 2
  Coyote Buttress
27 New Exile E1 5b 5
28 Cat Call
-
VS 4c * 31
29 The Traverse E1 5c *** 7
30 Caterpillar's Crawl
-
HVS 5a * 16
31 Puss Moth
-
HVS 5a 4
32 Catacomb Direct
-
HVS 5a * 32
33 Catastrophe Grooves HVS 5a ** 255
34 White Room HVS 5a * 21
35 Lyon Route E1 5b * 69
36 Cat Cull E2 5c * 1
37 Coyote Buttress HVS 5a ** 243
38 Derek's Dilemma VS 5a * 204
39 Broken Toe Groove VS 4c * 359
40 Jackdaw Grooves VS 4b ** 557
41 Nine Lives Wall HVS 5a * 201
42 Catharsis Wall HVS 5a 44
43 Cats Eye S 4a 364
44 Budweisser Effect HVS 4c 26
45 McPlumb Wall HVS 4c * 85
46 Negative 'G'
-
HVS 5b * 5
47 Cougar Cleft HS 4a 73
48 Tiger Route 1 VS 4c * 103
49 Tiger Route 2 VS 4c 20
Climb name Grade
50 Wandering Tiger VS 5a * 3
51 Ripsnorter VS 4b * 23
52 Steel Pulse HVS 5a 4
53 Sourpuss VS 4c * 83
54 Pupilla VS 4c * 211
55 Cat Walk HS 4a ** 343
56 Still Waters E1 5c 1
  High Crag
58 Manx VS 4b * 256
59 Grand Prix E1 5b * 6
60 Golden Yardstick VS 5a *** 642
61 Golden Yardstick Direct E1 5c * 4
62 Lobo VS 4b * 208
63 Tut's Anomalous E1 5b ** 110
64 The Catcuss Furballs Connection E5 6b * 5
65 Clash of Arms E4 6b * 3
66 Mr Dog E5 6b *  
67 Stolen Jewel E5 6b * 1
68 Great Cleft E2 5c ** 73
69 Lynx HS 4b *** 618
70 Sphynx VS 5a ** 217
71 Climacteric VS 5a ** 168
72 Octopuss HVS 5a 9
73 Cataclysm HVS 5a *** 420
74 Metamorphosis HVS 5b * 31
75 Timing X E1 5b * 16
76 End Game HVS 5a * 6
77 Mothra * E2 5b 5c  
  Unsorted
79 Liberty Cap
-
E2 5c ** 10
80 Great Crack E2 5c ** 26
81 Sunset Creek E1 5b ** 38
82 Go Go Grooves HVS 5a ** 25
83 Puma Passage
-
VS 4b * 21
84 Tiger Chimney
-
VD 6
85 Catacomb
-
VS 4c 20
86 Manky Meander
-
VS 4b 8
87 Felix Arete
-
HS 4a 7
88 Bird Lime Corner
-
MS * 4
89 The Ferreter
-
HS 4a * 2
90 Cracker Jack
-
HVD *** 17
91 Long Route
-
HS 4a 9
92 Wedge Buttress
-
S * 6
93 Mackering VS 4c * 8
94 Tiger Tim VS 4c 7
95 Blurb HVS 5a * 4
96 Kit-E-Kat
-
VS 3
97 Coyote Crack
-
VS ** 12
98 Green Cracks VS 3
Climb name Grade
99 Terminal
-
E2 5c 2
100 Return of the Native
-
E4 6a 1
101 Down, Down to Hell and Say I Sent Thee Thither E2 5c ** 1
102 Blue Grass Special HVS 5a * 5
103 Drop D 1
104 Shoe S 4b 1
105 Dodge S 4c 1
106 After VS 5b 1
107 Sooner or Later HVS 5b * 1
108 Top Cat VS 4c 9
109 Schoolboy Scoop
-
VD * 1
110 Overhang
-
MVS 4b * 5
111 Old Joe Clark D 1
112 Ground Hog VD 1
113 Shelter's End VS 4b 1
114 Roof Groove
-
VD 2
115 Clang
-
VS 4b 1
116 Fisherman's Wall VS 4b 1
117 Puma Chimney
-
VD 3
118 Chatti Chimney
-
HS 4a 3
119 Feline
-
HS 6
120 Diagonal S 2
121 End Scoop S 1
122 Leafy lane E1 5b 2
123 Wall End Crack S 1
124 Green Slab VD 2
125 Broken Groove S 1
126 Split Prow S 1
127 Chocker Block VD 3
128 Rib Wrecker VS 4c 2
129 Curving Chimney MVS 4a 1
130 High Bank Crack VS 5a 2
131 Deep Chimney HS 4b 2
132 Split Wall MS 3
133 Slab Route D 2
134 Jumper VD 1
135 Zipper S 1
136 Slow Feedback E1 5b * 1
137 Banjo Flake E1 5b * 4
138 Ukelele Wall VS 4c 3
139 Molybdenum E2 5c 4
140 Reality Clause E2 5b 3
141 Koala E1 5b 1
142 Shades of Grey HVS 5a 3
143 Cool Cat
-
HVS 1
144 No Pulse HVS 5a 1
145 Fragile Glass HVS 5a 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Lukem6