Climbs 230
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 132m a.s.l
Faces W

Abbing off at Wildcat..... © Dave Williams

Crag features

Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Approach notes

From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.

To reach the Woodbank Tor area, follow a small path heading right from the main crag. It peters out at the point that the crags on the left disappear into the hillside, and you can see the weir directly below. Descend a wide earthy couloir, steep and loose near the bottom, to emerge at the foot of the crag.

Restricted Access

Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.

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Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Access back to normal now, the barrier across bridge has gone and lots of rock scattewred all along from bridge to path going to crag. Beware of loose block on Broken toe groove. 3 blocks came out today, from just below the bulge on the 2nd pitch, there is another which might drop as well soon. its just above where the others were.
Paul Hy - 07/Sep/15
Lukem6 - 12/Jun/15
Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.
Lukem6 - 14/Apr/15
What happened to Upper Tor? Liberty Cap etc?
Bulls Crack - 13/Jul/14
crag log book could do with a bit of moderating
Lukem6 - 30/Sep/13
I'd love to head back with a decent guide book. We did a decent multipitch route I reckon about a VS 4c enjoyed it.
EDB4YLI55 - 19/Aug/13
awesome crag, if you want to know more go to for crag review
Lukem6 - 07/Jul/11
Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator - 03/May/11
I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 - 27/Jul/10
Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Apr/09
I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 New Bridge Buttress 
2Criminally Insane7a+ 2
3Trick Psychlist7c+ 1
4Strait Psychlist7a+ *7
5Strait Jacket7a *49
6Recoil6b+ *77
7Shock Treatment7a 25
8Lunatic AsylumHVS 5c 18
9The Mentalist7a+ 15
10Borstal Breakout
VS 4b 5
 Slippery Slabs 
12Pink PantherVS 4c 5
13Original RouteS 19
14Slippery Slabs Direct
VS 4c *33
VS 4c *14
VS 4b 9
17Brew Eleven
VD 10
HVS 5a 2
 Puma Buttress 
20Puma AreteVS 7
21Puma Direct
HVS 5a *15
22Puma CrackVS 8
23Another TimeE2 5b *13
24Tom Cat
HVS 4c *7
VS 4c 2
 Coyote Buttress 
27New ExileE1 5b 5
28Cat Call
VS 4c *30
29The TraverseE1 5c ***9
30Caterpillar's Crawl
HVS 5a *16
31Puss Moth
HVS 5a 4
32Catacomb Direct
HVS 5a *30
33Catastrophe GroovesHVS 5a **244
34White RoomHVS 5a *19
35Lyon RouteE1 5b *66
36Cat CullE2 5c *1
37Coyote ButtressHVS 5a **244
38Derek's DilemmaVS 5a *201
39Broken Toe GrooveVS 4c *341
40Jackdaw GroovesVS 4b **527
41Nine Lives WallHVS 5a *195
42Catharsis WallHVS 5a 42
43Cats EyeS 4a 344
44Budweisser EffectHVS 4c 23
45McPlumb WallHVS 4c *77
46Negative 'G'
HVS 5b *5
47Cougar CleftHS 4a 68
48Tiger Route 1VS 4c *96
49Tiger Route 2VS 4c 18
50Wandering TigerVS 5a *3
51RipsnorterVS 4b *23
52Steel PulseHVS 5a 4
53SourpussVS 4c *80
54PupillaVS 4c *197
55Cat WalkHS 4a **334
56Still WatersE1 5c 1
 High Crag 
58ManxVS 4b *240
59Grand PrixE1 5b *6
60Golden YardstickVS 5a ***633
61Golden Yardstick DirectE1 5c *4
62LoboVS 4b *200
63Tut's AnomalousE1 5b **110
64The Catcuss Furballs ConnectionE5 6b *6
65Clash of ArmsE4 6b *4
66Mr DogE5 6b * 
67Stolen JewelE5 6b *1
68Great CleftE2 5c **73
69LynxHS 4b ***590
70SphynxVS 5a **211
71ClimactericVS 5a **165
72OctopussHVS 5a 6
73CataclysmHVS 5a ***417
74MetamorphosisHVS 5b *30
75Timing XE1 5b *16
76End GameHVS 5a *6
78Liberty Cap
E2 5c **10
79Great CrackE2 5c **26
80Sunset CreekE1 5b **36
81Go Go GroovesHVS 5a **23
82Puma Passage
VS 4b *20
83Tiger Chimney
VD 6
VS 4c 18
85Manky Meander
VS 4b 8
86Felix Arete
HS 4a 7
87Bird Lime Corner
MS *4
88The Ferreter
HS 4a *2
89Cracker Jack
HVD ***17
90Long Route
HS 4a 9
91Wedge Buttress
S *6
92MackeringVS 4c *8
93Tiger TimVS 4c 7
94BlurbHVS 5a *3
VS 3
96Coyote Crack
VS **10
97Green CracksVS 3
E2 5c 2
99Return of the Native
E4 6a 1
100Down, Down to Hell and Say I Sent Thee ThitherE2 5c **1
101Blue Grass SpecialHVS 5a *5
102DropD 1
103ShoeS 4b 1
104DodgeS 4c 1
105AfterVS 5b 1
106Sooner or LaterHVS 5b *1
107Top CatVS 4c 9
108Schoolboy Scoop
VD *1
MVS 4b *5
110Old Joe ClarkD 1
111Ground HogVD 1
112Shelter's EndVS 4b 1
113Roof Groove
VD 2
VS 4b 1
115Fisherman's WallVS 4b 1
116Puma Chimney
VD 3
117Chatti Chimney
HS 4a 3
HS 6
119DiagonalS 2
120End ScoopS 1
121Leafy laneE1 5b 2
122Wall End CrackS 1
123Green SlabVD 2
124Broken GrooveS 1
125Split ProwS 1
126Chocker BlockVD 3
127Rib WreckerVS 4c 2
128Curving ChimneyMVS 4a 1
129High Bank CrackVS 5a 2
130Deep ChimneyHS 4b 2
131Split WallMS 3
132Slab RouteD 2
133JumperVD 1
134ZipperS 1
135Slow FeedbackE1 5b *1
136Banjo FlakeE1 5b *4
137Ukelele WallVS 4c 3
138MolybdenumE2 5c 4
139Reality ClauseE2 5b 3
140KoalaE1 5b 1
141Shades of GreyHVS 5a 3
142Cool Cat
143No PulseHVS 5a 1
144Fragile GlassHVS 5a 1

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