Climbs 230
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 132m a.s.l
Faces W

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Niall Grimes on Great Cleft, Wildcat © Paul Evans

Crag features

Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Approach notes

From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.

To reach the Woodbank Tor area, follow a small path heading right from the main crag. It peters out at the point that the crags on the left disappear into the hillside, and you can see the weir directly below. Descend a wide earthy couloir, steep and loose near the bottom, to emerge at the foot of the crag.

http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf

Restricted Access

Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Access back to normal now, the barrier across bridge has gone and lots of rock scattewred all along from bridge to path going to crag. Beware of loose block on Broken toe groove. 3 blocks came out today, from just below the bulge on the 2nd pitch, there is another which might drop as well soon. its just above where the others were.
Paul Hy - 07/Sep/15
http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf
Lukem6 - 12/Jun/15
Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.
Lukem6 - 14/Apr/15
What happened to Upper Tor? Liberty Cap etc?
Bulls Crack - 13/Jul/14
crag log book could do with a bit of moderating
Lukem6 - 30/Sep/13
I'd love to head back with a decent guide book. We did a decent multipitch route I reckon about a VS 4c enjoyed it.
EDB4YLI55 - 19/Aug/13
awesome crag, if you want to know more go to http://gachieve.blogspot.com/ for crag review
Lukem6 - 07/Jul/11
Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator - 03/May/11
I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 - 27/Jul/10
Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Apr/09
I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Blue Grass Buttress
2 Banjo Flake E1 5b * 3
3 Blue Grass Special HVS 5a * 4
4 Ukelele Wall VS 4c 2
5 Reality Clause E2 5b 3
6 Molybdenum E2 5c 4
  New Bridge Buttress
8 Criminally Insane 7a+ 5
9 Trick Psychlist 7c+ 3
10 Strait Psychlist 7a+ * 8
11 Strait Jacket 7a * 63
12 Recoil 6b+ * 99
13 Shock Treatment 7a 32
14 Lunatic Asylum HVS 5c 21
15 The Mentalist 7a+ 15
16 Borstal Breakout
-
VS 4b 5
  Grayling Buttress
18 The Grayling E3 5c 1
19 Arson E3 5c *  
  Slippery Slabs
21 Pink Panther VS 4c 5
22 Original Route S 20
23 Slippery Slabs Direct
-
VS 4c * 33
24 Whisker
-
VS 4c * 14
25 Bobcat
-
VS 4b 8
26 Brew Eleven
-
VD 11
27 Zaza
-
HVS 5a 2
  Puma Buttress
29 Puma Arete VS 7
30 Puma Direct
-
HVS 5a * 17
31 Puma Passage
-
VS 4b * 21
32 Koala E1 5b 1
33 Puma Crack VS 7
34 Puma Chimney
-
VD 3
35 Chatti Chimney
-
HS 4a 3
  Feline Buttress
37 Feline
-
HS 5
38 Top Cat VS 4c 8
39 Shades of Grey HVS 5a 4
40 Another Time E2 5b * 14
41 Tom Cat
-
HVS 4c * 7
42 Spectrum
-
VS 4c 2
  Coyote Buttress
44 New Exile E1 5b 5
45 The Traverse E1 5c *** 6
46 Cat Call
-
VS 4c * 33
47 Caterpillar's Crawl
-
HVS 5a * 16
48 Puss Moth
-
HVS 5a 4
49 Catacomb Direct
-
HVS 5a * 36
50 Catacomb
-
VS 4c 25
51 Paws for Thought
-
E1 5b  
52 Catastrophe Grooves HVS 5a ** 284
53 White Room HVS 5a * 21
54 Cat Cull E2 5c * 1
55 Lyon Route E1 5b * 89
56 Coyote Buttress HVS 5a ** 315
Climb name Grade
57 Derek's Dilemma VS 5a * 227
58 Broken Toe Groove VS 4c * 432
59 Jackdaw Grooves VS 4b ** 675
60 Nine Lives Wall HVS 5a * 237
61 Catharsis Wall HVS 5a 55
62 Cats Eye S 4a 417
63 Budweisser Effect HVS 4c 25
64 Cool Cat
-
HVS 2
65 Mothra E1 5c 1
66 McPlumb Wall HVS 4c * 97
67 Negative 'G'
-
HVS 5b * 6
68 Cougar Cleft HS 4a 80
  Tiger Buttress
70 Tiger Route 1 VS 4c * 109
71 Tiger Route 2 VS 4c 20
72 Tiger Tim VS 4c 6
73 Tiger Chimney
-
VD 6
74 Wandering Tiger VS 5a * 4
  Cat Walk Buttress
76 Fragile Glass HVS 5a 2
77 Sourpuss VS 4c * 91
78 Ripsnorter VS 4b * 23
79 Steel Pulse HVS 5a 4
80 No Pulse HVS 5a 1
81 Super-Pauline E1 5b * 1
82 Pupilla VS 4c * 253
83 Cat Walk HS 4a ** 415
84 Manky Meander
-
VS 4b 7
85 Still Waters E1 5c 1
  High Crag
87 Grand Prix E1 5b * 7
88 Manx VS 4b * 297
89 Blurb HVS 5a * 4
90 Golden Yardstick VS 5a *** 779
91 Golden Yardstick Direct E1 5c * 9
92 Lobo VS 4b * 239
93 Tut's Anomalous E1 5b ** 126
94 The Catcuss Furballs Connection E5 6b * 7
95 Clash of Arms E4 6b * 3
96 Mr Dog E5 6b *  
97 Great Cleft E2 5c ** 85
98 Lynx HS 4b *** 742
99 Stolen Jewel E5 6b * 1
100 Sphynx VS 5a ** 248
101 Kit-E-Kat
-
VS 3
102 Climacteric VS 5a ** 202
103 Octopuss HVS 5a 10
104 PussyCat HVS 5a * 2
105 Cataclysm HVS 5a *** 502
106 Metamorphosis HVS 5b * 33
107 Timing X E1 5b * 17
108 End Game HVS 5a * 6
109 Felix Arete
-
HS 4a 7
  Glasshouse Buttress
111 Diagonal S 2
112 End Scoop S 1
Climb name Grade
  Holly Wall/Yew Tree Wall
114 Leafy lane E1 5b 1
115 Slow Feedback E1 5b * 1
116 Wall End Crack S 1
117 Green Slab VD 2
  Weir Wall/Mole Trap buttress
119 Broken Groove S 1
120 Split Prow S 1
121 Bird Lime Corner
-
MS * 4
122 The Ferreter
-
HS 4a * 2
  Woodbank Tor
124 Wedge Buttress
-
S * 6
125 Chocker Block VD 3
126 Rib Wrecker VS 4c 2
127 Cracker Jack
-
HVD *** 16
128 Overhang
-
MVS 4b * 5
129 Long Route
-
HS 4a 9
130 Curving Chimney MVS 4a 1
131 Down, Down to Hell and Say I Sent Thee Thither E2 5c ** 1
132 Mackering VS 4c * 7
133 Green Cracks VS 3
134 High Bank Crack VS 5a 2
135 Deep Chimney HS 4b 2
136 Drop D 1
137 Shoe S 4b 1
138 Dodge S 4c 1
139 Sooner or Later HVS 5b * 1
140 Split Wall MS 3
  Upper Tor
142 Thrutch
-
VS 4c 1
143 Schoolboy Scoop
-
VD * 7
144 Trammeltanz
-
E4 6b  
145 Liberty Cap
-
E2 5c ** 16
146 Waiting for an Alibi
-
E5 6b  
147 Great Crack E2 5c ** 43
148 Shades of Pineapple Pink
-
E5 6b 2
149 Sunset Creek E1 5b ** 68
150 Terminal
-
E2 5c 2
151 Kurt B. Gurt * VS 5a 1
152 Return of the Native
-
E4 6a 1
153 Go Go Grooves HVS 5a ** 42
  Mill Tor
155 Jumper VD 1
156 Zipper S 1
  Unsorted/Unknown
158 Coyote Crack
-
VS ** 10
159 After VS 5b 1
160 Old Joe Clark D 1
161 Ground Hog VD 1
162 Shelter's End VS 4b 1
163 Roof Groove
-
VD 2
164 Clang
-
VS 4b 1
165 Fisherman's Wall VS 4b 1
166 Slab Route D 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Luke90 and The Reaper