UKC

Climbs 230
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 132m a.s.l
Faces W

Niall Grimes on Great Cleft, Wildcat © Paul Evans

Crag features

Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Approach notes

From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.

To reach the Woodbank Tor area, follow a small path heading right from the main crag. It peters out at the point that the crags on the left disappear into the hillside, and you can see the weir directly below. Descend a wide earthy couloir, steep and loose near the bottom, to emerge at the foot of the crag.

http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf

Update this Crag
Last updated on 24/Jan/2019

Restricted Access

Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 23/10/2018 

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Peak Limestone

 Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Peak Limestone South (2018)
Peak Limestone - South (2018)
Peak District : Climbing (2008)
Peak SE Pokketz (2007)
On Peak Rock (2003)
Northern Limestone Route Database (2001)

Out of print:
Update Guidebooks
Access back to normal now, the barrier across bridge has gone and lots of rock scattewred all along from bridge to path going to crag. Beware of loose block on Broken toe groove. 3 blocks came out today, from just below the bulge on the 2nd pitch, there is another which might drop as well soon. its just above where the others were.
Paul Hy - 07/Sep/15
http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf
Lukem6 - 12/Jun/15
Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.
Lukem6 - 14/Apr/15
What happened to Upper Tor? Liberty Cap etc?
Bulls Crack - 13/Jul/14
crag log book could do with a bit of moderating
Lukem6 - 30/Sep/13
I'd love to head back with a decent guide book. We did a decent multipitch route I reckon about a VS 4c enjoyed it.
EDB4YLI55 - 19/Aug/13
awesome crag, if you want to know more go to http://gachieve.blogspot.com/ for crag review
Lukem6 - 07/Jul/11
Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator - 03/May/11
I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 - 27/Jul/10
Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Apr/09
I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Blue Grass Buttress
2 Banjo Flake E1 5b * 4
3 Blue Grass Special HVS 5a * 5
4 Ukelele Wall VS 4c 3
5 Reality Clause E2 5b 3
6 Molybdenum E2 5c 4
  New Bridge Buttress
8 Criminally Insane 7a+ 2
9 Trick Psychlist 7c+ 1
10 Strait Psychlist 7a+ * 8
11 Strait Jacket 7a * 57
12 Recoil 6b+ * 90
13 Shock Treatment 7a 28
14 Lunatic Asylum HVS 5c 22
15 The Mentalist 7a+ 15
16 Borstal Breakout
-
 VS 4b 5
  Slippery Slabs
18 Pink Panther VS 4c 5
19 Original Route S 19
20 Slippery Slabs Direct
-
 VS 4c * 33
21 Whisker
-
 VS 4c * 14
22 Bobcat
-
 VS 4b 9
23 Brew Eleven
-
 VD 10
24 Zaza
-
 HVS 5a 2
  Puma Buttress
26 Puma Arete VS 7
27 Puma Direct
-
 HVS 5a * 16
28 Puma Passage
-
 VS 4b * 21
29 Koala E1 5b 1
30 Puma Crack VS 8
31 Puma Chimney
-
 VD 3
32 Chatti Chimney
-
 HS 4a 3
  Feline Buttress
34 Feline
-
 HS 6
35 Top Cat VS 4c 9
36 Shades of Grey HVS 5a 3
37 Another Time E2 5b * 13
38 Tom Cat
-
 HVS 4c * 7
39 Spectrum
-
 VS 4c 2
  Coyote Buttress
41 New Exile E1 5b 5
42 The Traverse E1 5c *** 7
43 Cat Call
-
 VS 4c * 31
44 Caterpillar's Crawl
-
 HVS 5a * 17
45 Puss Moth
-
 HVS 5a 4
46 Catacomb Direct
-
 HVS 5a * 33
47 Catacomb
-
 VS 4c 22
48 Paws for Thought
-
 E1 5b  
49 Catastrophe Grooves HVS 5a ** 262
50 White Room HVS 5a * 22
51 Cat Cull E2 5c * 1
52 Lyon Route E1 5b * 80
53 Coyote Buttress HVS 5a ** 277
54 Derek's Dilemma VS 5a * 212
Climb name Grade
55 Broken Toe Groove VS 4c * 400
56 Jackdaw Grooves VS 4b ** 620
57 Nine Lives Wall HVS 5a * 220
58 Catharsis Wall HVS 5a 54
59 Cats Eye S 4a 390
60 Budweisser Effect HVS 4c 27
61 Cool Cat
-
 HVS 2
62 Mothra E1 5c 1
63 McPlumb Wall HVS 4c * 89
64 Negative 'G'
-
 HVS 5b * 6
65 Cougar Cleft HS 4a 77
  Tiger Buttress
67 Tiger Route 1 VS 4c * 107
68 Tiger Route 2 VS 4c 20
69 Tiger Tim VS 4c 7
70 Tiger Chimney
-
 VD 6
71 Wandering Tiger VS 5a * 3
  Cat Walk Buttress
73 Fragile Glass HVS 5a 2
74 Sourpuss VS 4c * 88
75 Ripsnorter VS 4b * 24
76 Steel Pulse HVS 5a 4
77 No Pulse HVS 5a 1
78 Pupilla VS 4c * 227
79 Cat Walk HS 4a ** 390
80 Manky Meander
-
 VS 4b 8
81 Still Waters E1 5c 1
  High Crag
83 Grand Prix E1 5b * 7
84 Manx VS 4b * 280
85 Blurb HVS 5a * 4
86 Golden Yardstick VS 5a *** 712
87 Golden Yardstick Direct E1 5c * 7
88 Lobo VS 4b * 223
89 Tut's Anomalous E1 5b ** 118
90 The Catcuss Furballs Connection E5 6b * 7
91 Clash of Arms E4 6b * 4
92 Mr Dog E5 6b *  
93 Great Cleft E2 5c ** 78
94 Lynx HS 4b *** 682
95 Stolen Jewel E5 6b * 1
96 Sphynx VS 5a ** 230
97 Kit-E-Kat
-
 VS 3
98 Climacteric VS 5a ** 187
99 Octopuss HVS 5a 11
100 PussyCat HVS 5a *  
101 Cataclysm HVS 5a *** 459
102 Metamorphosis HVS 5b * 33
103 Timing X E1 5b * 17
104 End Game HVS 5a * 6
105 Felix Arete
-
 HS 4a 7
  Glasshouse Buttress
107 Diagonal S 2
108 End Scoop S 1
Climb name Grade
  Holly Wall/Yew Tree Wall
110 Leafy lane E1 5b 2
111 Slow Feedback E1 5b * 1
112 Wall End Crack S 1
113 Green Slab VD 2
  Weir Wall/Mole Trap buttress
115 Broken Groove S 1
116 Split Prow S 1
117 Bird Lime Corner
-
 MS * 4
118 The Ferreter
-
 HS 4a * 2
  Woodbank Tor
120 Wedge Buttress
-
 S * 6
121 Chocker Block VD 3
122 Rib Wrecker VS 4c 2
123 Cracker Jack
-
 HVD *** 17
124 Overhang
-
 MVS 4b * 5
125 Long Route
-
 HS 4a 9
126 Curving Chimney MVS 4a 1
127 Down, Down to Hell and Say I Sent Thee Thither E2 5c ** 1
128 Mackering VS 4c * 8
129 Green Cracks VS 3
130 High Bank Crack VS 5a 2
131 Deep Chimney HS 4b 2
132 Drop D 1
133 Shoe S 4b 1
134 Dodge S 4c 1
135 Sooner or Later HVS 5b * 1
136 Split Wall MS 3
  Upper Tor
138 Thrutch
-
 VS 4c  
139 Schoolboy Scoop
-
 VD * 3
140 Trammeltanz
-
 E4 6b  
141 Liberty Cap
-
 E2 5c ** 15
142 Waiting for an Alibi
-
 E5 6b  
143 Great Crack E2 5c ** 35
144 Shades of Pineapple Pink
-
 E5 6b  
145 Sunset Creek E1 5b ** 55
146 Terminal
-
 E2 5c 2
147 Return of the Native
-
 E4 6a 1
148 Go Go Grooves HVS 5a ** 31
  Mill Tor
150 Jumper VD 1
151 Zipper S 1
  Unsorted/Unknown
153 Coyote Crack †
-
 VS ** 11
154 After VS 5b 1
155 Old Joe Clark D 1
156 Ground Hog VD 1
157 Shelter's End VS 4b 1
158 Roof Groove
-
 VD 2
159 Clang
-
 VS 4b 1
160 Fisherman's Wall VS 4b 1
161 Slab Route D 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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