UKC

Climbs 230
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 132m a.s.l
Faces W

Abbing off at Wildcat..... © Dave Williams

Crag features

Classic traditional routes on highly featured butresses up to 50m high. Lots of cracks, grooves, ribs and aretes of good quality rock for the most part (some vegetated finishes). Most routes are VS and above, with a lot in the HVS to E2 range. Classics include Lynx (HS 4b,4a), Cataclysm (VS 4b,5a), Golden Yardstick (VS 4c,5a). Catastrophe Grooves (HVS 4c,5a), Sunset Creek (E1 5b), Grand Cleft (E2 5b) and The Catcuss Furballs Connection (E5 6b).

Approach notes

From various parking places in Matlock Bath head south past the Pavillion (Mining Museum), through the gardens and across the metal bridge. The main part of the crag is up and to the right.

Take care on descents and avoid entering the grounds of Willersley Castle when descending from Upper Tor.

To reach the Woodbank Tor area, follow a small path heading right from the main crag. It peters out at the point that the crags on the left disappear into the hillside, and you can see the weir directly below. Descend a wide earthy couloir, steep and loose near the bottom, to emerge at the foot of the crag.

http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf

Access Advice

Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Apple iOS devices (Android version to follow).


Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Access back to normal now, the barrier across bridge has gone and lots of rock scattewred all along from bridge to path going to crag. Beware of loose block on Broken toe groove. 3 blocks came out today, from just below the bulge on the 2nd pitch, there is another which might drop as well soon. its just above where the others were.
Paul Hy - 07/Sep/15
http://www.derbyshiredales.gov.uk/images/documents/L/Lovers_Walk_Rockfall_final_report_June_2015.pdf
Lukem6 - 12/Jun/15
Please do not scramble down the bank between the A6 and the new bridge to avoid a longer walk. The righthand end of the crags is owned by Wesley (Methodist) Guild Holidays who are concerned about the public wandering around the private grounds near the castle. Please keep disturbance to a minimum - particularly around Upper Tor.
Lukem6 - 14/Apr/15
What happened to Upper Tor? Liberty Cap etc?
Bulls Crack - 13/Jul/14
crag log book could do with a bit of moderating
Lukem6 - 30/Sep/13
I'd love to head back with a decent guide book. We did a decent multipitch route I reckon about a VS 4c enjoyed it.
EDB4YLI55 - 19/Aug/13
awesome crag, if you want to know more go to http://gachieve.blogspot.com/ for crag review
Lukem6 - 07/Jul/11
Had a great day here, must be one of the best crags in the country for the VS/HVS climber, loads of quality routes at these grades.
The Ivanator - 03/May/11
I have an original.will photocopy if you wish.07717 472518
jonty7 - 27/Jul/10
Probably the noisiest crag I've ever been to, courtesy of a non-stop procession of bikers on the road below!
Simon Caldwell - 20/Apr/09
I'm trying to locate a copy of the original (paperback)guide to the crag. Any suggestions please?
haydn taylor - 22/Aug/06
Login as Existing User to add your comments

Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Blue Grass Buttress
2 Banjo Flake E1 5b * 4
3 Blue Grass Special HVS 5a * 5
4 Ukelele Wall VS 4c 3
5 Molybdenum E2 5c 4
  New Bridge Buttress
7 Criminally Insane 7a+ 2
8 Trick Psychlist 7c+ 1
9 Strait Psychlist 7a+ * 7
10 Strait Jacket 7a * 54
11 Recoil 6b+ * 87
12 Shock Treatment 7a 26
13 Lunatic Asylum HVS 5c 20
14 The Mentalist 7a+ 15
15 Borstal Breakout
-
VS 4b 5
  Slippery Slabs
17 Pink Panther VS 4c 5
18 Original Route S 19
19 Slippery Slabs Direct
-
VS 4c * 33
20 Whisker
-
VS 4c * 14
21 Bobcat
-
VS 4b 9
22 Brew Eleven
-
VD 10
23 Zaza
-
HVS 5a 2
  Puma Buttress
25 Puma Arete VS 7
26 Puma Passage
-
VS 4b * 21
27 Puma Direct
-
HVS 5a * 16
28 Puma Crack VS 8
29 Puma Chimney
-
VD 3
30 Feline
-
HS 6
31 Top Cat VS 4c 9
32 Another Time E2 5b * 13
33 Tom Cat
-
HVS 4c * 7
34 Spectrum
-
VS 4c 2
  Coyote Buttress
36 New Exile E1 5b 5
37 Cat Call
-
VS 4c * 31
38 The Traverse E1 5c *** 7
39 Caterpillar's Crawl
-
HVS 5a * 16
40 Puss Moth
-
HVS 5a 4
41 Catacomb
-
VS 4c 20
42 Catacomb Direct
-
HVS 5a * 32
43 Catastrophe Grooves HVS 5a ** 253
44 White Room HVS 5a * 22
45 Lyon Route E1 5b * 74
46 Cat Cull E2 5c * 1
47 Coyote Buttress HVS 5a ** 267
48 Derek's Dilemma VS 5a * 209
49 Broken Toe Groove VS 4c * 380
50 Jackdaw Grooves VS 4b ** 591
Climb name Grade
51 Nine Lives Wall HVS 5a * 214
52 Catharsis Wall HVS 5a 49
53 Cats Eye S 4a 376
54 Budweisser Effect HVS 4c 26
55 Mothra E1 5b, 5c  
56 McPlumb Wall HVS 4c * 85
57 Negative 'G'
-
HVS 5b * 6
58 Cougar Cleft HS 4a 74
59 Tiger Route 1 VS 4c * 107
60 Tiger Route 2 VS 4c 20
61 Tiger Tim VS 4c 7
62 Tiger Chimney
-
VD 6
63 Wandering Tiger VS 5a * 3
64 Ripsnorter VS 4b * 24
65 Steel Pulse HVS 5a 4
66 Sourpuss VS 4c * 86
67 Pupilla VS 4c * 227
68 Cat Walk HS 4a ** 376
69 Manky Meander
-
VS 4b 8
70 Still Waters E1 5c 1
  High Crag
72 Grand Prix E1 5b * 6
73 Manx VS 4b * 273
74 Blurb HVS 5a * 4
75 Golden Yardstick VS 5a *** 684
76 Golden Yardstick Direct E1 5c * 4
77 Lobo VS 4b * 215
78 Tut's Anomalous E1 5b ** 114
79 The Catcuss Furballs Connection E5 6b * 7
80 Clash of Arms E4 6b * 3
81 Mr Dog E5 6b *  
82 Great Cleft E2 5c ** 75
83 Lynx HS 4b *** 657
84 Stolen Jewel E5 6b * 1
85 Sphynx VS 5a ** 228
86 Kit-E-Kat
-
VS 3
87 Climacteric VS 5a ** 180
88 Octopuss HVS 5a 11
89 Cataclysm HVS 5a *** 443
90 Metamorphosis HVS 5b * 32
91 Timing X E1 5b * 16
92 End Game HVS 5a * 6
93 Felix Arete
-
HS 4a 7
94 Slow Feedback E1 5b * 1
95 Bird Lime Corner
-
MS * 4
96 The Ferreter
-
HS 4a * 2
  Woodbank Tor
98 Wedge Buttress
-
S * 6
99 Cracker Jack
-
HVD *** 17
100 Overhang
-
MVS 4b * 5
Climb name Grade
101 Long Route
-
HS 4a 9
102 Down, Down to Hell and Say I Sent Thee Thither E2 5c ** 1
103 Mackering VS 4c * 8
104 Green Cracks VS 3
105 Sooner or Later HVS 5b * 1
  Mill Tor
  Upper Tor
108 Liberty Cap
-
E2 5c ** 14
109 Great Crack E2 5c ** 31
110 Sunset Creek E1 5b ** 48
111 Terminal
-
E2 5c 2
112 Go Go Grooves HVS 5a ** 29
  Unsorted
114 Coyote Crack
-
VS ** 11
115 Return of the Native
-
E4 6a 1
116 Drop D 1
117 Shoe S 4b 1
118 Dodge S 4c 1
119 After VS 5b 1
120 Schoolboy Scoop
-
VD * 3
121 Old Joe Clark D 1
122 Ground Hog VD 1
123 Shelter's End VS 4b 1
124 Roof Groove
-
VD 2
125 Clang
-
VS 4b 1
126 Fisherman's Wall VS 4b 1
127 Chatti Chimney
-
HS 4a 3
128 Diagonal S 2
129 End Scoop S 1
130 Leafy lane E1 5b 2
131 Wall End Crack S 1
132 Green Slab VD 2
133 Broken Groove S 1
134 Split Prow S 1
135 Chocker Block VD 3
136 Rib Wrecker VS 4c 2
137 Curving Chimney MVS 4a 1
138 High Bank Crack VS 5a 2
139 Deep Chimney HS 4b 2
140 Split Wall MS 3
141 Slab Route D 2
142 Jumper VD 1
143 Zipper S 1
144 Reality Clause E2 5b 3
145 Koala E1 5b 1
146 Shades of Grey HVS 5a 3
147 Cool Cat
-
HVS 1
148 No Pulse HVS 5a 1
149 Fragile Glass HVS 5a 1

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers Luke90 and The Reaper