Climbs 29
Rocktype Limestone

Space Buttress, White Scar © Lankyman

Crag features

Awesome looking crag with very iffy access. Check the BMC page before getting psyched.

Access Advice

Following development of the crag in the mid 1990's, the landowner (residents of Crosthwaite and Lyth) expressed concerns about damage to the conservation value of the site. A 10 year moratorium on climbing was agreed by the BMC, on the understanding that after this, access for climbing would be restored. Extensive attempts to negotiate access at White Scar by the BMC and the Lake District National Park Authority have taken place after the end of the moratorium period, however the Landowners Committee, (which represents the residents of Crosthwaite and Lyth) continues to decline attempts at negotiation. As a result, the BMC is no longer in a position to support a voluntary climbing ban at White Scar. The landowner has advised that access to the crag is not permitted, however it is up to individual climbers to make their own decision whether to visit the site. Regardless of the current access situation, any climber who decides to visit the site is advised to observe the following points in order to maintain the image of climbers being responsible users of the countryside: - The crag is a Peregrine nest site and should be avoided during the periods stated below in the ‘Seasonal Restrictions’ section of this page. - The crag is within a SSSI with rare flora inhabiting the cliffs and approaches. No vegetation removal should take place. - Installation of more fixed equipment is strongly discouraged as this was a major issue which led to the initial access problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Peregrine and raven nest on White Scar between 15th Feb and 30th June each year - regardless of any access agreements or otherwise, no climbing should take place during this period.

Guidebooks

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire

Northern Limestone : Yorkshire, Cumbria, Lancashire covers some of the best limestone crags in the UK including the big three of Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. Alongside these titans are numerous other destinations that offer both sport and trad climbing throughout the grades, ranging from the intimidating walls of Blue Scar and Trow Gill to the long lines of newly-developed low to mid-grade sport crags such as Moughton Nab and Giggleswick South. Trad climbing is also well catered for on the walls and escarpments at the likes of Trowbarrow Quarry, Twistleton Scar, Attermire Scar and Witches Quarry.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Rock (1999)
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Space Buttress
2 Puppy Dog Pie
-
VS 4c  
3 Air City
-
E2 5b  
4 T.M.A
-
E1 5a 1
5 The Book of Invasions
-
E3 6a 3
6 Zona Norte
-
E5 6b  
7 Introducing The Hardline
-
E5 6b  
8 Men At Work
-
E5 6b  
9 Ten Years Gone
-
E6 6c  
10 The Prometheus Crisis
-
E3 5c 1
11 Aqualung
-
VS 4c 2
  Tapestry Buttress
13 The Turin Shroud
-
HVS 4c  
14 The Malacia Tapestry
-
E2 5c  
15 Torn Curtain
-
HVS 5b  
  Stride Pinnacle Area
17 Big Strides
-
E1 5b  
18 Stride Pinnacle
-
VS 4b  
19 Sidewinder
-
E3 5b  
  Wilf's Crag

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