Climbs 118
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1249m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Pitch 1 of Amethyst Pillar © CacCarnBeag

Crag features

The coire is fairly unique to the Cairngorms as it faces south allowing plenty sunshine. Many of the rock routes dry very quickly and can often be climbed early or late in the year. The sunny aspect does affect the winter routes which will be more prone to stripping of snow.

Approach notes

Can be approached from south by the Linn of Dee (3/3.5hrs) or from the north by the ski area car park (2.5/3hrs)

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Ben Macdui - Stob Coire Sputan Dearg summit
-
summit 23
  Red Slabs
3 Rooibos
-
E5 6a  
4 Echinacea
-
E4 6b  
5 Ginseng
-
E4 6c  
6 Ginseng Alternative Start
-
E4 6b  
7 Rainmate (Summer)
-
S  
8 Rainmate (Winter)
-
III  
9 Sundance (Summer)
-
HVS 4c *  
10 Sundance (Winter)
-
III  
11 Umbrella
-
VS 5a  
12 Rain Shadow
-
VS 4b  
  Pinnacle Buttress
14 Pinacle Butress (Summer)
-
M 6
15 Pinacle Butress (Winter)
-
II ** 3
16 Pinnacle Buttress Direct Route
-
S 1
17 The Smooth Groove
-
IV 6  
18 The Red Gully
-
I 3
  Grey Man's Crag
20 Grey Mans Crag Girdle
-
HS  
21 Crystal Ridge (Summer)
-
D *** 98
22 Crystal Ridge (Winter)
-
IV 4 ** 7
23 Slab Chimney Left Branch (Summer)
-
D  
24 Slab Chimney Left Branch (Winter)
-
II  
25 Slab Chimney Right Branch
-
III * 2
26 Little Gem
-
V 6 *  
27 Rough Diamond
-
V 7  
28 Sapphire
-
E1 5b  
29 The Plumb Line (Summer)
-
HS 1
30 The Plumb Line (Winter)
-
V 7 *  
31 Amethyst Wall (Summer)
-
HVS  
32 Amethyst Wall (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
33 Zircon
-
E2 5c ** 5
34 Amethyst Pillar
-
HVS 5b *** 31
35 Pilgrims Groove (Summer)
-
HS  
36 Pilgrim's Groove (Winter)
-
V 7 *  
37 Pilgrim's Groove Variation Finish
-
VS 4b  
38 Spectre
-
E1 5b  
39 Lucifer Route (Summer)
-
S  
40 Lucifer Route (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
41 Grey Slab (Summer)
-
HS 4b *** 70
42 Grey Slab (Winter)
-
VII 7 *** 1
43 Ferlas Mor (Summer)
-
HS ** 8
Climb name Grade
44 Ferlas Mor (Winter)
-
VII 8 *  
45 Grey Man's Crack
-
E1 5c *  
46 Hanging Dyke (Summer)
-
VD ** 26
47 Hanging Dyke (Winter)
-
V 5 **  
48 Ghost Crack
-
VS 5a * 1
49 Ardath Chimney (Summer)
-
D 2
50 Ardath Chimney (Winter)
-
III ** 9
51 Aurora (Summer)
-
HS 4b 2
52 Aurora (Winter)
-
IV 6 *  
53 Anchor Gully (Summer)
-
M  
54 Anchor Gully (Winter)
-
I 3
  Anchor Buttress
56 Anchor Route (Summer)
-
D  
57 Anchor Route (Winter)
-
III 1
58 Anchor Route Direct III 4 * 1
59 Lanyard
-
III  
60 Unchained
-
I  
  Glissade Gully
62 Glissade Buttress
-
II 2
  Snake Ridge Area
64 Rootin' Dootin' Sputin'
-
III  
65 Hackingbush's Horror
-
VS 4b 2
66 Janus Chimney (Summer)
-
VD  
67 Janus Chimney (Winter)
-
III 4 * 1
68 Janus (Summer)
-
D  
69 Janus (Winter)
-
III 5 *  
70 Snake Gully
-
II ** 3
71 Snake Ridge (Summer)
-
HS ** 17
72 Snake Ridge (Winter)
-
V 6 * 3
73 The Ladders
-
II * 5
74 Mousehole Gully
-
II 2
75 Narrow Buttress II  
76 Narrow Gully
-
I 8
77 To a Mouse I 2
  Central Buttress
79 Dark Horse
-
HVS 5a  
80 Cherub's Buttress (Summer)
-
VD  
81 Cherub's Buttress (Winter)
-
III  
82 Cherub's Depression
-
II  
83 Flying Ridge (Summer)
-
D  
84 Flying Ridge (Winter)
-
IV 5  
85 Flying Ridge Original
-
II  
86 Left-Hand Icefall
-
IV 4 *  
Climb name Grade
87 The Black Tower (Summer)
-
S * 1
88 The Black Tower (Winter)
-
V 7 **  
89 The Black Tower Variation
-
V 5 *  
90 Right-Hand Icefall
-
II ** 1
91 Flake Buttress (Summer)
-
M ** 8
92 Flake Buttress (Winter)
-
III *** 1
93 Flake Buttress Direct
-
V 7 *  
94 Precocious Gully
-
III  
  Spider Buttress - Upper Tier
96 Joker's Buttress
-
HVS 5c *  
97 Arachnophobe
-
III 4  
98 Bolero
-
E5 6b * 1
99 The Skater
-
E4 6a * 2
100 The Chebec (Summer)
-
VS 4c *  
101 The Chebec (Winter)
-
VII 8  
102 Boris
-
IV 6  
103 Flying Saucers
-
E4 5c * 3
104 The Fly (Summer)
-
VS 4c ** 10
105 The Fly (Winter)
-
V 7 **  
106 The Web (Summer)
-
S  
107 The Web (Winter)
-
IV 4 *  
  Spider Buttress - Lower Tier
109 Ataraxia
-
E6 6b **  
  Terminal Buttress
111 Next To Last
-
HVS 5a  
112 The Swing
-
VS 4b * 4
113 The Slide (Summer)
-
VS 4b 2
114 The Slide (Winter)
-
V 6  
115 Contra Flow
-
E1 5b *  
116 Remontado
-
E6 6a *  
117 The Chute (Summer)
-
HVS 5a * 3
118 The Chute (Winter)
-
VI 7 **  
119 Wee Heavy (Summer)
-
VS 5a  
120 Wee Heavy (Winter)
-
VI 7  
121 April Wall (Summer)
-
S 4
122 April Wall (Winter)
-
V 7  
123 Terminal Buttress (Summer)
-
VD * 13
124 Terminal Buttress (Winter)
-
IV 5 1
125 Terminal Wall (Summer)
-
HS 4b * 6
126 Terminal Wall (Winter)
-
VI 7 *  
127 The Hin' Most
-
VS 4c * 1
128 The Ramp
-
I  
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer RAB623