Climbs 163
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 310m a.s.l
Faces W

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November Sun © David Stevens

Crag features

The right hand extension of a pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height; for the competent a rope is rarely necessary. Because of the lack of height, many routes only receive a technical grade, offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.

Quieter and more secluded than Scots Crag.

Recommended: Fairy Tale Low 6c, Super Skunk, Fallen Arch 5a, Black Wall Traverse 6b, New Dimensions E3 6a, Grandmaster Flash E5 6b,

Approach notes

No dogs - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Overhanging Block
2 Slab
-
VB 4b 52
3 Overhanging Crack
-
VB 4c 36
4 Flake Route
-
VB 4c 46
  Barker's Buttress
6 Angel Eyes
-
HS 4b 60
7 Stolen Moment HS 4b 26
8 Roof Route
-
HS 4b * 62
9 Avalon
-
HVS 5b 12
10 Back to the wall VB * 4
11 Mantra f5 4
  Rowan Buttress
13 Rowan Buttress Indirect f5+ 1
14 Rowan Tree Wall
-
S 4a * 38
15 Rowan Tree Corner
-
D 21
16 Easy Flank VD 5
17 Left Arete
-
VS 4c 20
18 Right Wall
-
HVS 5c 12
  Jackson's Block
20 Left Arete
-
VS 4c 22
21 Front Overhang
-
VS 4b 29
  Barking Block
23 Barking Mad Fin V1 5b * 6
24 Barking Mad
-
VS 5a 24
  Amphitheatre Buttress
26 Green Chimney
-
S 4a 43
27 Hairline none 5a 11
28 Problem Wall
-
VS 5c * 36
29 Outer Wall
-
VS 4c 55
30 Pedestal Crack
-
S 4a * 126
31 Walled Out VS 5b 12
32 Walled In
-
VS 5b * 33
33 Wall Edge V0- 5a 6
34 The Nose
-
VD 99
35 Pedestal Chimney
-
D 100
36 Pedestal Wall
-
HVD 3c 62
37 Pedestal Wall Eliminate HVS 5b 42
38 Hedgehog Arete VS 5a * 10
39 Flake Chimney
-
HD 59
40 Flake Chimney and Wall
-
D 53
41 Hard Sell
-
VS 4c 89
42 Long Chimney
-
HVD 55
43 Coalition
-
S 1
44 Tall Tales VS 5c 7
45 Fairy Tale High HVS 6b * 1
46 Easter Edge
-
HVS 5c * 16
47 Fairy Tale Low
-
HVS 6c 9
48 The Nose HVS 5c * 60
49 Snuff
-
HVS 5b 28
50 Alcove Cracks
-
S 4a ** 144
51 Alcove Wall VS 5b 4
52 Alcove Chimney
-
MVS 4b 75
53 Alan's Wall
-
E1 5b 47
54 Scoop Wall
-
E2 5c 14
55 Mr Whippy/Born in the USA
-
E2 5c 15
56 Captain Kirk Where Are You? E2 5c 3
57 Snatch Arete
-
E2 5c *** 15
58 Empty Illusions
-
E2 5c 2
59 Pioneer's Chimney
-
M 52
60 Ancient Pioneer VS 4b 11
61 Ancient's Ascent
-
D * 54
Climb name Grade
62 Super Skunk none 6a 11
63 Super Skunk - Sit Start
-
none 6b 9
64 Natural High none 6b 2
  Road End Buttress
66 One For The Road
-
S 4a 37
67 Shandy
-
VD * 38
68 Shandy (overhang direct)
-
HS 4b 19
69 Chaser Chimney
-
HVD 30
  Last But One Buttress
71 The Frog
-
VS 5b 10
72 Last But One Buttress
-
VD 23
  Day's End Buttress
74 Flake Wall
-
HS 55
75 Joshua's Nose
-
HVD * 56
76 Bilberry Cracks
-
S 4a * 68
77 Days Gone By f6A+ * 1
78 Left Again HVS 5c * 20
79 Dangerous Game
-
HVS 5b * 13
80 Safety in Numbers
-
VS 5a 39
81 Breakout
-
VS 4b * 50
82 Belly Chimney
-
VD 49
83 Snippet
-
HVS 5c 29
84 Jericho Wall
-
VD * 43
85 Evening Wall
-
S 4a 33
86 Easy Going f3 8
87 Close Encounter f5+ 4
88 South Facing Slab * f4+ 4
  The Eyrie
90 The Eyrie
-
HVS 5c 8
  Bird's Nest Buttress
92 Fragile Wall
-
VS 5b 12
93 Smiler
-
VS 5b 12
94 The Bends
-
HVS 6a 5
95 Wild
-
HVS 5b 4
96 Flake Arete
-
HVS 5c 10
97 Short and Sweet
-
HVS 5c 3
98 Windy
-
VD 17
99 Air Time-The Traverse
-
E1 6b 1
100 Breeze
-
HS 4b 13
  Arch and Attic Buttress
102 Architrave
-
VS 5c 11
103 Arch Rival
-
HVS 6a 13
104 Arch Gully
-
M * 31
105 Over the Top
-
VS 4c * 11
106 Arch Enemy f6C ** 1
107 Fallen Arch
-
HVS 5a ** 31
108 Attic Gully
-
D 26
109 Atticism
-
HVS 5c 2
110 Foot Loose
-
HVS 6a  
111 Direct Start
-
HVS 5c 5
112 Attikismos Traverse
-
HVS 5c 1
  Hogmanay Buttress
114 Auld Lang Syne
-
VS 5a 4
115 Hogmanay
-
HS 17
116 First Footing
-
M 26
  Black Wall
118 Black Corner - Left Side
-
VD * 45
119 Black Corner - Right Side
-
HS 4b * 49
120 Black Wall
-
HVS 5b 46
121 Mandela's Day
-
HVS 5c * 41
122 Timeless Divide
-
S 4c * 55
Climb name Grade
123 Black Banned
-
HVS 6a ** 26
124 Billy No Mates
-
HVS 5c 4
125 Harry Palmer
-
HVS 5c 4
126 Big Nose
-
HVS 5b 6
  Cleft Buttress
128 Imperial Measurements
-
S 24
129 Leaning Wall
-
VS 5a * 38
130 The Chute
-
VS 4c * 50
131 Finger Jam
-
E2 6a * 30
132 Elimination E2 6b 11
133 Monty's Leap
-
E3 6b 4
134 New Dimensions E3 6a ** 76
135 Open up and Gurgle
-
E4 6c  
136 Hangover
-
E3 6a 11
137 Circuit Training
-
E2 6a 3
138 Shorter's Circuit
-
E2 6a  
139 Chockstone Chimney
-
HD * 44
140 Sculptured Wall
-
E1 5a 39
141 Sculptured Arete
-
E3 5c * 10
142 Heartbeat
-
E3 5c 8
143 Cannonball Run E3 6a 2
144 Grand Master Flash
-
E5 6b *** 13
145 Mother Of All Ketchup Bottles E6 6b **  
146 Night Entry
-
VD 27
147 Rum Doodle
-
VS 4c 30
148 Rhum Dubh V3 6a 15
149 Rum and raisin * f6B 2
  The Anvil Boulder
151 Black Anvil Traverse f6C+ * 2
152 Lichen It f5+ 1
153 None More Black f6B 1
154 Bun E King f5 1
155 Black Rabbit f5+  
  M 'n M's Buttress
157 Minstrel Wall
-
HS 4b 28
158 A Sack a Day
-
VS 4c 22
159 Slap Happy
-
VS 5b 3
160 M & Ms Arete
-
VS 4c 15
  Cinderella and The Ugly Sisters
162 Beware the Thunder
-
HVS 5c 10
163 Living in Sin
-
E1 6a 3
164 Impressionless Lust
-
E2 6a * 3
165 Cinderella
-
VD 31
166 The Slipper
-
HVD 20
167 Ugly Sister One
-
VS 4b 22
168 Ugly Sister Two
-
VD 28
169 Whazzup
-
VS 5a 9
170 If The Shoe Sits f6A 1
171 T'New Beginnings f6B+ 1
172 Prince Charming * f5 2
  Virgin Buttress
174 The Virgin
-
VS 4c 22
175 Flaked Out
-
E1 5b 16
176 Obsessions of the Mind
-
E2 6a 4
177 Hard Play E2 5b  
178 Right Wall Route
-
S 4a 25
179 Hocus Pocus HS 7
180 Back To Basics VD 8
181 Curtain Call
-
VS 5b 26
182 Final Curtain HVD 6
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Matthew Ferrier