Climbs 158
Rocktype Sandstone (hard)
Altitude 310m a.s.l
Faces W

Dave Paul repeating GMF,ste brown fielding,80's style © DPaul

Crag features

The right hand extension of a pleasant edge of hard sandstone that extends along the rim of this quiet valley. The crag rarely reaches more than 10m in height; for the competent a rope is rarely necessary. Because of the lack of height, many routes only receive a technical grade, offers everything from pleasant slabs to technical cracks and aretes to pumpy overhangs.

Quieter and more secluded than Scots Crag.

Recommended: Fairy Tale Low 6c, Super Skunk, Fallen Arch 5a, Black Wall Traverse 6b, New Dimensions E3 6a, Grandmaster Flash E5 6b,

Approach notes

No dogs - farmland.
From Swainby (on the A172) head south-east on a minor road on the true L bank of the beck that flows through the village, until you can cross the beck by a ford. Continue with care up the road for 3 mi to the road head and park with care.
5 min walk leads to the crag.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Overhanging Block
2 Slab
-
VB 4b 49
3 Overhanging Crack
-
VB 4c 33
4 Flake Route
-
VB 4c 43
  Barker's Buttress
6 Angel Eyes
-
HS 4b 57
7 Stolen Moment HS 4b 22
8 Roof Route
-
HS 4b * 59
9 Avalon
-
HVS 5b 10
10 Back to the wall VB * 3
11 Mantra f5 3
  Rowan Buttress
13 Rowan Buttress Indirect f5+ 1
14 Rowan Tree Wall
-
S 4a * 35
15 Rowan Tree Corner
-
D 18
16 Easy Flank VD 4
17 Left Arete
-
VS 4c 17
18 Right Wall
-
HVS 5c 10
  Jackson's Block
20 Left Arete
-
VS 4c 20
21 Front Overhang
-
VS 4b 26
  Barking Block
23 Barking Mad Fin V1 5b * 4
24 Barking Mad
-
VS 5a 21
  Amphitheatre Buttress
26 Green Chimney
-
S 4a 41
27 Hairline none 5a 9
28 Problem Wall
-
VS 5c * 35
29 Outer Wall
-
VS 4c 55
30 Pedestal Crack
-
S 4a * 114
31 Walled Out VS 5b 12
32 Walled In
-
VS 5b * 29
33 Wall Edge V0- 5a 5
34 The Nose
-
VD 93
35 Pedestal Chimney
-
D 92
36 Pedestal Wall
-
HVD 3c 57
37 Pedestal Wall Eliminate HVS 5b 39
38 Hedgehog Arete VS 5a * 9
39 Flake Chimney
-
HD 56
40 Flake Chimney and Wall
-
D 49
41 Hard Sell
-
VS 4c 78
42 Long Chimney
-
HVD 51
43 Tall Tales VS 5c 7
44 Fairy Tale High HVS 6b * 1
45 Easter Edge
-
HVS 5c * 15
46 Fairy Tale Low
-
HVS 6c 7
47 The Nose HVS 5c * 51
48 Snuff
-
HVS 5b 25
49 Alcove Cracks
-
S 4a ** 132
50 Alcove Wall VS 5b 3
51 Alcove Chimney
-
MVS 4b 66
52 Alan's Wall
-
E1 5b 41
53 Scoop Wall
-
E2 5c 12
54 Mr Whippy/Born in the USA
-
E2 5c 13
55 Captain Kirk Where Are You? E2 5c 2
56 Snatch Arete
-
E2 5c *** 12
57 Empty Illusions
-
E2 5c 2
58 Pioneer's Chimney
-
M 51
59 Ancient Pioneer VS 4b 10
60 Ancient's Ascent
-
D * 51
61 Super Skunk none 6a 11
62 Super Skunk - Sit Start
-
none 6b 8
63 Natural High none 6b 2
  Road End Buttress
65 One For The Road
-
S 4a 35
66 Shandy
-
VD * 34
67 Shandy (overhang direct)
-
HS 4b 17
68 Chaser Chimney
-
HVD 27
  Last But One Buttress
70 The Frog
-
VS 5b 9
71 Last But One Buttress
-
VD 21
  Day's End Buttress
73 Flake Wall
-
HS 49
74 Joshua's Nose
-
HVD * 51
75 Bilberry Cracks
-
S 4a * 62
76 Days Gone By f6A+ * 1
77 Left Again HVS 5c * 19
78 Dangerous Game
-
HVS 5b * 13
79 Safety in Numbers
-
VS 5a 32
80 Breakout
-
VS 4b * 46
81 Belly Chimney
-
VD 42
82 Snippet
-
HVS 5c 25
83 Jericho Wall
-
VD * 41
84 Evening Wall
-
S 4a 28
85 Easy Going f3 3
86 Close Encounter f5+ 2
87 South Facing Slab * f4+ 1
  The Eyrie
89 The Eyrie
-
HVS 5c 4
  Bird's Nest Buttress
91 Fragile Wall
-
VS 5b 8
92 Smiler
-
VS 5b 7
93 The Bends
-
HVS 6a 5
94 Wild
-
HVS 5b 2
95 Flake Arete
-
HVS 5c 7
96 Short and Sweet
-
HVS 5c 3
97 Windy
-
VD 16
98 Air Time-The Traverse
-
E1 6b 1
99 Breeze
-
HS 4b 12
  Arch and Attic Buttress
101 Architrave
-
VS 5c 8
102 Arch Rival
-
HVS 6a 12
103 Arch Gully
-
M * 23
104 Over the Top
-
VS 4c * 9
105 Arch Enemy f6C ** 1
106 Fallen Arch
-
HVS 5a ** 20
107 Attic Gully
-
D 23
108 Atticism
-
HVS 5c 2
109 Foot Loose
-
HVS 6a  
110 Direct Start
-
HVS 5c 5
111 Attikismos Traverse
-
HVS 5c 1
  Hogmanay Buttress
113 Auld Lang Syne
-
VS 5a 4
114 Hogmanay
-
HS 14
115 First Footing
-
M 21
  Black Wall
117 Black Corner - Left Side
-
VD * 40
118 Black Corner - Right Side
-
HS 4b * 41
119 Black Wall
-
HVS 5b 40
120 Mandela's Day
-
HVS 5c * 33
121 Timeless Divide
-
S 4c * 46
122 Black Banned
-
HVS 6a ** 24
123 Billy No Mates
-
HVS 5c 4
124 Harry Palmer
-
HVS 5c 4
125 Big Nose
-
HVS 5b 6
  Cleft Buttress
127 Imperial Measurements
-
S 23
128 Leaning Wall
-
VS 5a * 36
129 The Chute
-
VS 4c * 45
130 Finger Jam
-
E2 6a * 20
131 Elimination E2 6b 9
132 Monty's Leap
-
E3 6b 3
133 New Dimensions E3 6a ** 57
134 Open up and Gurgle
-
E4 6c  
135 Hangover
-
E3 6a 10
136 Circuit Training
-
E2 6a 3
137 Shorter's Circuit
-
E2 6a  
138 Chockstone Chimney
-
HD * 38
139 Sculptured Wall
-
E1 5a 36
140 Sculptured Arete
-
E3 5c * 8
141 Heartbeat
-
E3 5c 6
142 Cannonball Run E3 6a 1
143 Grand Master Flash
-
E5 6b *** 9
144 Mother Of All Ketchup Bottles E6 6b **  
145 Night Entry
-
VD 20
146 Rum Doodle
-
VS 4c 27
147 Rhum Dubh V3 6a 12
  The Anvil Boulder
149 Black Anvil Traverse f6C+ * 2
150 Lichen It f5+ 1
151 None More Black f6B 1
152 Bun E King f5 1
153 Black Rabbit f5+  
  M&M's Buttress
155 Minstrel Wall
-
HS 4b 26
156 A Sack a Day
-
VS 4c 19
157 Slap Happy
-
VS 5b 3
158 M & Ms Arete
-
VS 4c 13
  Cinderella & The Ugly Sisters
160 Beware the Thunder
-
HVS 5c 7
161 Living in Sin
-
E1 6a 3
162 Impressionless Lust
-
E2 6a * 2
163 Cinderella
-
VD 25
164 The Slipper
-
HVD 15
165 Ugly Sister One
-
VS 4b 18
166 Ugly Sister Two
-
VD 23
167 Whazzup
-
VS 5a 6
  Virgin Buttress
169 The Virgin
-
VS 4c 19
170 Flaked Out
-
E1 5b 15
171 Obsessions of the Mind
-
E2 6a 4
172 Hard Play E2 5b  
173 Right Wall Route
-
S 4a 22
174 Hocus Pocus HS 3
175 Back To Basics VD 4
176 Curtain Call
-
VS 5b 23
177 Final Curtain HVD 3
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

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