Climbs 31
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

George Christie on the big traverse of Heart of Darkness / New Morning © Alan Learg

Crag features

One of the problems with Mewsford is the huge number of brilliant routes that you walk past on the approach - you really need to want to go there! So how can I convince you? Well, here goes... Mewsford has a great set of routes in the E1 to E3 range that take brilliant and complex lines up a magnificent face of rock. The climbing starts strenuously but eases as you get higher and the exposure increases. All the routes listed here are worth doing but Daydreams and Surprise Attack are uber-classics! So now you are convinced, here is how to get there...

Approach notes

A long walk from either end of Range West. The wall is marked by a lookout point about a large wedge-shaped ramp in the sea below.

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Guidebooks

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1 Let Me Down Easy
-
E5 6a ** 1
2 Surprise Attack E1 5c *** 161
3 Ambush at Bear Creek
-
E5 6a 1
4 Nearly a Whisper E3 6a ** 1
5 The Lure of the Sea E5 6a ** 1
6 The Shining E4 6a ** 2
7 Try to Imagine Drowning
-
E5 6a * 1
8 The Voyage Out E3 6a ** 12
9 Somnambulist E2 5c * 6
10 Lateral Bearings E2 5c ** 8
11 By Popular Demand
-
E4 6a * 1
12 Daydreams E2 5b *** 155
13 Nightmare on Lily Street
-
E5 6b * 1
14 Chartered Courses
-
E5 6a * 1
15 Heaven Can wait
-
E4 6a ** 4
16 Idle Threats E2 5c 10
17 Return of the Natives E3 5b, 6a ** 19
18 Holy Slab
-
S 2
19 Seven Curses VS 4c 3
20 The Seedyank
-
VS 4c 4
21 Beta Blocker
-
VS 4c 3
22 Undercracker
-
VS 4c 2
23 Feeling the Pinch
-
S 1
24 Drifter's Escape HS 4a 2
25 Amen Corner HS 4b 3
26 Seafarers
-
HVS 5a ** 3
27 Underneath the Arches
-
E2 5c ***  
28 Year of the Cat
-
E2 5c ** 8
29 Foxtrot Oscar E2 5c 1
30 Prime Cut E2 5b * 2
31 Never Say Goodbye HVS 5b, 5a 2

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