Climbs 31
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

George Christie on the big traverse of Heart of Darkness / New Morning © Alan Learg

Crag features

One of the problems with Mewsford is the huge number of brilliant routes that you walk past on the approach - you really need to want to go there! So how can I convince you? Well, here goes... Mewsford has a great set of routes in the E1 to E3 range that take brilliant and complex lines up a magnificent face of rock. The climbing starts strenuously but eases as you get higher and the exposure increases. All the routes listed here are worth doing but Daydreams and Surprise Attack are uber-classics! So now you are convinced, here is how to get there...

Approach notes

A long walk from either end of Range West. The wall is marked by a lookout point about a large wedge-shaped ramp in the sea below.

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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
1Let Me Down Easy
E5 6a **1
2Surprise AttackE1 5c ***155
3Ambush at Bear Creek
E5 6a 1
4Nearly a WhisperE3 6a **1
5The Lure of the SeaE5 6a **1
6The ShiningE4 6a **2
7Try to Imagine Drowning
E5 6a *1
8The Voyage OutE3 6a **10
9SomnambulistE2 5c *5
10Lateral BearingsE2 5c **8
11By Popular Demand
E4 6a *1
12DaydreamsE2 5b ***149
13Nightmare on Lily Street
E5 6b *1
14Chartered Courses
E5 6a *1
15Heaven Can wait
E4 6a **3
16Idle ThreatsE2 5c 9
17 Return of the NativesE3 5b, 6a **17
18Holy Slab
S 2
19Seven CursesVS 4c 3
20The Seedyank
VS 4c 2
21Beta Blocker
VS 4c 3
VS 4c 2
23Feeling the Pinch
S 1
24Drifter's EscapeHS 4a 2
25Amen CornerHS 4b 3
HVS 5a **3
27Underneath the Arches
E2 5c *** 
28Year of the Cat
E2 5c **7
29Foxtrot OscarE2 5c 1
30Prime CutE2 5b *1
31Never Say GoodbyeHVS 5b, 5a 3

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