UKC

Climbs 321
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces SW

First day clipping in the sun © ben_lea

Crag features

The centre of mid and lower grade sport climbing in the Peak with many good routes between 6a and 7a, and a few below. Part of the quarry was purchased by the BMC in 2005 for the good of the nation, access is now freely allowed (with the usual caveats) and is dedicated as CROW land.

In 2017 a major rebolting excerise was undertaken on the routes on the BMC owned land, with a number of routes being decommisioned due to rock stability issues. Visitors should be aware that the quality of the bolts and indeed the rock itself might be of a significantly inferior standard in areas not owned by the BMC. See https://www.thebmc.co.uk/horseshoe-rebolting-round-up 

Quick drying and a good year round venue. Popular on sunny evenings. The best routes are on the Main Wall, 23m high, reasonably sound, but often sportingly bolted. Bolts and lower-offs on some routes have recently been replaced by the BMC, but this does not mean that the bolt spacing is comparable to an indoor wall. Best routes are Rain Dance (F6c+), Legal Action (F6c), Run For Your Wife (F6c+), Private Prosecution (F6c+), Litany Against Fear (F6b+), Megalithic Man (F6b+) and Shot Your Bolt (F6b+).

Sectors on either side off the Main Wall, and indeed above it on the Upper Tier, have been developed more recently and tend to be more closely bolted. However the rock tends to be less reliable, and although the BMC has undertaken some stabilization work, care should be exercised. Wearing a helmet is advisable, particularly when belaying. Nonetheless there are good routes to be found in most of the outlying areas - such as Rage (6b) and Excavator(5).

A few trad routes remain - such as Do Android Dream of Electric Sheep (E1 5c).

Up-to-the-minute topos can be found at www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

Approach notes

Parking for about 12 cars at the quarry entrance, which is just off the A623 at SK 205760, 1-2km west of Stoney Middleton. Do not block the turning circle. If this is full (which it often is), drive a little further west and park in the lay-bys either side of the road. Take care walking back along the road.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Now that the rebolting work is nearing completion can we expect to see published a list of routes rebolted, routes stripped and information on any routes that may have radically changed?
roger whetton - 30/Oct/17
Had a cracking day climbing here 21/04/14 round the toilet area, had no problems with rock falling off! The climbs were in good condition!
sam_whitehouse - 21/Apr/14
Climbed some lines on the slabs at the far end of the quarry on Saturday. A massive flake came off in my hands and split on the way down causing a chunk to hit my partners head. It has cracked her helmet and caused a slight head injury. I would seriously advise not to go up on here even if the lower grades are tempting as my piece wasn't the only piece that fell off!
Rhi Rhi - 22/Apr/13
Climbed a couple of lines on Guoranga Buttress Saturday and suggest avoiding them. It's all very loose and after doing a route we moved elsewhere for fear of doing more damage to the rock!
seanraby - 07/May/12
went there thursday last week and tuesday this week. did most of the 4+ on the slabs. good routes although the ground underneath is very eroded so be careful. Did latrine and removal man which were really good routes. good venue.
danimal - 10/Feb/11
Doodah Buttress is the short wall to the right of the upper tier. In the 1986 Stoney guide, but none of the more recent ones. Classics(?) include Pot-washer's wall (HVS 5b*) and Hot Zipperty (HVS 5a*). Rumour has it that this area has also been used for dry-tooling
Chris the Tall - 29/Oct/10
i just wanted to say thank you to the four guys who helped me on the 28-05-2010. i realy apreciate everything you did for me, from packing my gear to carrying it all out for me. but most of all for comforting clare while i was being treated. your a lovely bunch and i hope our paths will cross again someday, hopefully under better circumstances. best regards too you and a top venue. mike. no broken bones
mike-a-walton - 31/May/10
Horseshoe was one of the first of the peak district quarries to be developed to cater for the growing need of lower grade (sub 7s) sport climbing. It's amazing the place now sports over 250 routes although the quality of the vast majority of these is fairly poor. The crag is popular mainly because there are few other sport crags around that have many routes in the sixes and below. Being a disused quarry it's not exactly the most aesthetic place to climb but it's got a sunny aspect and it's far enough from the main road to at least be quiet. The main wall is by far the best part of the crag. The routes here lack natural lines: most are just blank walls linking up small features between the horizontal breaks. But good rock and interesting, and sometimes very technical climbing, more than make up for that. The bolts are in good condition, well placed and sometimes spaced far enough apart to add a little bit of excitement to the climbing too. If 6c is your grade Horseshoe has a handful of decent routes that make a visit definitely worthwhile.
stp - 19/Oct/09
i went last saturday , for my fisrt ever sport climbing day, apart from nearly pulling the routes off and leaving just a wall of soil, it was good, but it seemed as the routes get harder, it gets more polished, its a good crag but just needs a bit of getting used to. Ill be going back soon.
Liam Copley - 01/Jun/08
I agree with Wal's comments. But please don't light a bleedin' BBQ while people are climbing. There are so many varying sport routes here and still some excellent trad routes. I must have been here a dozen times over the last couple of years and tomorrow I'm going again cos it might be showery and it's easy to get off if you get caught in the rain - also there's nearly always something dry at Horseshoe if it's wet everywhere else.
Richard 261 - 09/Nov/07
Visited horseshoe for the first time on Sun 10 Jun 07 - after almost being put off by the earlier comments posted here. So glad I went! What a great sports climbing location! More than a hundred well bolted routes from 4 to 7, sheltered site, sun trap, tidy, no graffiti, no litter, easy access. What more could you want?
skyhigh269 - 11/Jun/07
Suitable for beginners/bottom-ropeing??? Right donw road from my aunties so is in fantastic location!
nolo - 24/Jun/06
When Iím hanging on by my finger-nails, I just donít seem to spend much time admiring the views!! For all its faults, there is a great selection of routes, itís very accessible and when the sun is out thereís plenty of space for Frisbees and barBQ.
Wal Holmes - 01/Jun/06
I must agree that the quarry is a good place to climb. And at what crag don't you get loose rock as all rock is vulnerable to weather conditions causing erosion.
MattieS - 09/May/06
i think it's a great place to climb there are just so many bolted routes at do-able grades. ok there's a fair bit of loose rock but if you're careful and wear helmets you'll be ok. it may not be beutiful and it may not be tranquil but the only time i've ever seen more climbable rock in one place was the grand canyon. in my opinion it's a great day out.
Josh - 01/Aug/05
After reading the comments above, I think there must be 2 Horseshoe quarries. In the one I go to, I have never encountered any polished routes. There are literally hundreds of good, well bolted routes in the 6a - 6c grades and even a few good trad routes. True enough, it's more like an outdoor climbing wall than a real crag, but my climbing is improving every time I go there. I'm looking forward to Pembroke in August, but I'll still keep going to Horseshoe.
Richard 261 - 26/Jun/05
Includes a gully at the left hand end of the lower tier described in On Peak Rock. "Quite Tricky, 50m"!
mad matt - 30/May/05
Been there today for the first time, i thought it was great and the sun was out.....cracking day! i know what you mean about the loose rock, bring on the adventure...............
JayJay - 12/May/05
I like it!
Adam Moroz - 18/Feb/05
There are sections of the quarry where you have to wonder "why bother?". If the BMC is to buy the quarry then serious consideration should be given as to whether some routes should be pulled down on safety grounds.
Bob - 06/Sep/04
So its not ideal, but what the hell, if you don't like, don't climb there, then it will not get so polished!!!!!!
Bob - 01/Sep/04
You might want to include a warning about loose rock and friable holds, particularly on the newer routes. Belayers should either wear a helmet or avoid standing directly below the route - or both - and even then you might not be safe!
Chris the Tall - 07/Aug/03
Well bolted but an extremely dangerous slab due to some very big loose rocks (especially on the first 2 routes from the left). If you are determined to climb there, a helmet is essential.
Antony - 16/Jul/03
Dont knock it. The best routes are good, particularly in the Legal Action to Megalithic area. Why would it be so popular if they were not? Beware some of the recent developmments though.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
I like it and most of my mates do as well, not a pretty place, but hey how many sports crags have we got? Some good routes on the top level. Stu
StuT - 08/Nov/02
A bloody awfull crag!!!! Dropped straight in the Peak from the Devil's backside. Embodies all the worst aspects of climbing, i.e. polished, badly bolted, chipped, quarried, ugly. We don't have to stoop to this....
Dave - 08/Nov/02
This place is so ugly people shouldn't be allowed to climb here.....actually I don't think you are allowed to climb here. [You are - UKC Ed.]
Stone Donkey - 08/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Routes that have fallen down
2 Monkey stole my walkman 6b * 11
  South Bay
4 NYD 6a+  
5 Pig in a Poke 5a 13
6 Bad Boys Ink 6a 30
7 Unruly Behaviour 6a+ 15
8 Treatment 6b 16
9 Therapy 6b+ * 41
10 Porgi Amor 6a+ * 80
11 Foreign Tongues 6a 65
12 Gouranga 6c * 22
13 You crack me up E1 5b 2
14 MiniGrip 7a+ 8
15 Unhung 6a+ 1
16 The Fire Hang 6b 1
17 Hang Fire 6a 1
18 The Gobbler 5c  
19 Christmas Presence 6c+  
  Heart Buttress
21 Nine Eleven 6a 4
22 Seven Eleven 6b * 3
23 Tors Colon 6c+ 2
24 Vent Your Spleen 7b * 3
25 Heart to Heart E4 6a *  
26 Sliver 6c+ * 2
27 Stomach Pump 7a+ 1
28 Skin Flint 6b+ 1
29 The Blood Bank 6b 3
30 Sharing Best Practice 6a+ 1
31 Taylor-Parkinson Gully IV 5 1
  Chocolate Blancmange Wall
33 Barney Rubble 5c 44
34 Chauvi's Slab 5c * 94
35 Still Nacht 5c 18
36 Trog 5a 94
37 Neanderthal 5c 257
38 Men at Work 5a 122
39 The Quarrymen 6a 151
40 Excavator 5c * 496
41 Slab Cake 4c 229
42 Spare Rib #1 5a 122
43 The Cake Walk 4a 194
44 Christmas Pud 4c 154
45 Sago Slab 4a 190
46 Dream Topping 4c 206
47 Chocolate Blancmange Gully none xvd 7
48 Cinema Rage E1 5b 1
  Left Hand Wall
50 Out of Africa 6b+ 7
51 Madagascar 6b * 28
52 Bird Island 6a * 43
53 Seychelles 6b 11
54 Rainbow Warrior 6c * 34
55 Weakened Warrior 6b 11
56 Sam In You Eye 6a+ 21
57 During the War 6a+ * 64
58 Before the War 5a 111
59 Sahara 6b+ 11
60 Union Jack 5a 83
61 African't 6b+ 5
62 Desperate Dan 6b 10
63 Fine and Dandy 6b 3
64 African 6a+ 12
65 Bloodguard 6c+ 9
66 Grab yer Mandrakes 6b 22
67 Tirfin Mandrakes 6a+ 7
68 Tirfin USA 6a+ * 72
69 Tirf's High 6a+ 49
70 Race of the Freuds 6b+ 33
71 Peckling Fever 5c 258
72 Senter Home 6a 101
73 Tirf 'er Off 6a+ 47
74 63 Tomorrow 6c  
75 Maillon Sunday 6b * 61
76 Bootiful Bernard Mathews 6b * 31
77 Nowt Taken Out 6b 30
78 Foul's Bane 6a+ * 100
79 Drool Rock Worm 6b 17
80 Stone Throat 6b * 27
81 Slay the Gray 6b 12
82 Mr. Cellulite's Arete 6a+ 46
83 Bandolier 6a 122
84 Underslung 6b+ 5
85 The Little Thin Mexican Across the Border 6b * 28
86 Desperate Measures
-
6b+ 17
  Left Hand Walls (BMC land)
88 The Mexican takes Lexicon 6a+ 135
89 Exceeding the Speed Limit 6b 22
90 Mind Your Head 6b+ 21
91 Desperate Housewives 6a 31
92 Collared 6a 222
93 Spare Rib #2 6b 58
94 Eddie McStiff 6a+ * 72
95 Pelvic Thrust 6b 67
96 The Hippy Hippy Shakes 6a+ 76
97 Due Care and Attention 6a+ 208
98 Any Old Iron 6a 205
99 Sunday Sport 6b * 357
100 Austin Powers 6b 81
101 The Big Fat Texan on the Corner 6a * 607
102 He Seems so Sumo 6a 258
103 Olive Oil 6a 196
104 Removal Man 4c 296
105 Some Place 6b 38
106 Sag Ponir 5c * 583
  Main Wall
108 Pale Rider 6a * 1408
109 Rain Dance 6c ** 299
110 The Colostomy Finish 7a 47
111 Physical Fizz 6c 33
112 School's Out 6a+ ** 1164
Climb name Grade
113 Rotund Rooley/Schools Out combo 6a * 43
114 Rotund Rooley 6b ** 747
115 Waves of Mutilation 7a * 179
116 First Day Of Winter HVS 5b * 25
117 Wall of Jericho 6b * 529
118 The Leading Line 6b+ * 158
119 Say it With Flowers 6c ** 230
120 Legal Action 6c ** 312
121 Run For Your Wife 6c+ ** 96
122 Private Prosecution 6c *** 401
123 Litany Against Fear 6c ** 261
124 Megalithic Man 6b+ ** 656
125 Megalithic Man Direct 6c+ ** 86
126 Poisonality 7a * 81
127 An Ancient Rhythm 6c ** 112
128 Demolition Man 7a ** 125
129 Shot the Conformist 6b+ * 6
130 Shot Yer Bolt 6b+ ** 375
131 Southern Man 7a+ * 54
132 Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge 6b+ * 115
133 Flat World 7a+ * 56
134 Lost Monolith 6b+ * 78
135 The French Connection E4 6a 2
136 Conformist 6c 7
137 Screwy Driver E1 5b 23
138 Harvey Wallbanger 6b 8
139 Sound as a Carp E1 5b 2
140 Spring Awakening HVS 5a 16
  Androids Sector
142 Mutley Stole my Route Man 6b 8
143 Winter Fingers
-
6b 13
144 Broken to Bits
-
6c+ 1
145 Down to the Last
-
6b 6
146 Fragmented
-
6c 4
147 Mice Breaker 6b+ 7
148 Finishing off 6b+ 21
149 Spectophotometry E1 5b 8
150 50 Bolts to the Gallon 6a 153
151 Like Fire Like Ice 6a 118
152 Like Ice, Like Fire (Trad) E1 5b * 47
153 Galening Crack HVS 5a ** 55
154 Compromise E2 5b 6
155 Promises 6a+ 60
156 The Rottin' Word 6c 9
157 Decaydence 6c 5
158 Order Number 59 E2 5c 5
159 A Right Earful 6a+ * 209
160 Clean Your Mouth Out 6c+ * 28
161 The Dust Bunnies 7a * 24
162 Lets Kill Dill E4 6a 2
163 Dalken Shield 6b * 85
164 Hardcore! You Know the Score 6b * 167
165 The Director's Cut 6a+ * 123
166 Blade Runner 6a+ * 89
167 Bruce's Bonus 6b * 161
168 Androids Direct E1 5b * 10
169 Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? E2 5c * 79
170 Rage 6b * 144
171 The Running Man 6b * 101
172 The Long Walk 6c 5
173 The Dark Tower 6b+ 15
174 The Drawing of the Three 6b+ 8
175 Willie the Kid 6a+ * 89
176 Calamity Jane 6b+ 29
177 Jeff Garrett 6a+ * 56
178 The Dogs 6b 31
179 Derailed 6a+ * 74
180 Passage of Time 6b * 102
  Toilet Sector
182 The Sewer 6a+ 165
183 Latrine 5a 628
184 Armitage 6a 301
185 Shanks 6a 151
186 Potty 6a 176
187 Psycho Ceramic 6a+ 137
188 The Bog 6a * 286
189 Twyfords 6a+ 305
190 The Small Room 6a+ * 261
191 Thomas Crapper 6a * 470
192 Two Loos 4c * 487
193 Montezuma's Revenge 6b 198
194 Latrec 5a * 508
195 Toilet Graffiti 5c 228
196 Toilet Humour 5a 216
197 De Throne 5a 225
198 On Uranus 6a * 147
199 Eau de Toilette 6a 73
200 Wipe it Clean 6a 26
201 Andrex 6b 46
202 Easy Come, Easy Go 3a 64
  Upper Tier (West Side)
  Top Quarry
205 Mickey 3a 35
206 Minnie 3a 37
207 Daffy 4a 36
208 Goofy 3c 27
209 Donald 3c 28
210 Pluto 3c 22
211 A Tracky Little Problem 4a 64
212 Tracker Bar
-
5c 10
213 A Tracky Little Bleeder 5a 57
214 Gargle Blaster 6a 338
215 Uranus 3c 584
216 Luke Skywalker 4a * 488
217 Klingon 4a 518
218 Saturns Rings 4c 336
219 Vogon 6a 347
220 Dr. Who? 6a * 171
221 Torchwood 5c 102
222 Beam me Across Scotty! 5a 143
223 The Libertines 6b 1
224 Taking Liberties 6c+ 5
Climb name Grade
225 Statuesque 6a 8
226 Mucker's Wall 6a+ 56
227 A Fit of Peak 6a+ 12
228 Citizen's Arete 5a 114
229 Fredonia 6b 3
230 Drumming in a Lay-by E1 5b 1
231 Greedor E2 5b * 1
232 The Whinger 6a+ 28
233 Off Limits 6a+ 41
  Upper Tier (East side)
235 Elizabethville 6a 2
236 Burundi 6b 1
237 Townships 6c+  
238 Victoria Falls 6b 2
239 Kariba 6a+ 3
240 Zanzibar 6b 3
241 Simonstone 6c+ * 1
242 Ring Thane 6c+ 5
243 Pretoria 6b+  
244 Mombassa 6a * 2
245 Greenpeace 6a 6
246 Brew Thyme 6a 3
247 Thyme Out 6a 3
248 What's the Thyme 6a 4
249 Bridge Over the River Thyme 5a 8
250 Bit of Spare Thyme 5c 8
251 Fat Betty 4c 24
252 Take Your Thyme 5c 18
253 Porridge 4c * 34
254 Crunch yer Nuts 4a * 43
255 Soggy Bottom Boys 6b 15
256 Man of Constant Sorrow 5c 35
257 Big Rock Candy Mountain 6a 66
258 Everett's Arete 5c 18
259 Repulse 5a 26
260 Prince of Wales 5c 24
261 That Old DA Look 4a 41
262 FOP 6a 26
  Upper Tier (BMC land)
264 In The Jailhouse 6a 8
265 Po Lazarus 5c 6
266 No Way is Patience a Virtue 6b * 160
267 Whilst the Cats Away E3 6b 2
268 O Brother Where Art Thou? 6a * 187
269 Unnamed (Narrow Pillar) 6a 6
270 Dapper Dan 6a * 134
271 Babe The Blue Axe 5c 119
272 The Cretan 6b+ 14
273 Corinthian Spirit 6a 53
274 Theseus-Saurus 6b+ 18
275 It's all Greek to Me 6b * 39
276 The Miner Tour 6c+ 6
277 Olympiakus 6c 3
278 Her Aklion 6c 5
279 Almost There 5a 87
280 Into the Labyrinth 6a * 224
281 Into the Labyrinth (Trad)
-
E1 5b 11
282 By Zeus 6a+ * 172
283 Spiteful Rain 5c 230
284 Commiseration 5a 7
285 Second Prize 5c * 256
286 Tawny Owl Pie 5a 96
287 The Owl 6c 19
288 White Dove E1 5b * 18
289 Nullo in Mundo Pax Sincera 6c+ 6
290 Two Flat Whites 6a+  
291 Supplementary Questions 4c * 220
292 A Liberal Smear 6c 12
293 No Flair Blair E3 5c * 1
294 Labour Relations 6c+ 28
295 P.M.'s Question Time E3 6a 6
296 Avoiding the Issue E4 6a * 1
297 Booker Prize 6a+ * 108
298 Sir Pryze 6a+ * 175
299 Take It Easy 6b 7
300 Oy Missus 6c+ 5
301 Mr. Blue Sky 7a * 29
302 Esso Blue HVS 5b 6
303 Smoke Gets in Your Eyes 6c * 31
304 Esso Extra E1 5b 3
305 Shell Super 6c 4
306 Mumble Jumble 7a * 7
307 Fargo 6a+ 51
308 Blue Sunday 6b 55
309 Do It Yourself 6b+ 5
310 New Bolts And Yankees 6a 26
311 Kushti 6a+ 39
312 Lovely Bubbly 6c+ 5
313 Slabby but Nice 6a * 146
314 Sam And Mary 5a 35
315 Ma Marmalade 6a+ 12
316 Slam the Jam 6a 75
317 Jam Slice 6b 5
318 Don't Try This at Home 6c+ 1
319 Red Rum 5c 42
320 Nijinski E2 5b * 27
321 Seated Moon E2 5b ** 4
322 The Party Animal 6b * 57
323 Café Bleu E3 6a 12
324 Dinky Toy 6c 13
325 Corgi Registered 6b 5
326 Hornby 6a+ 8
  Doodah Buttress
328 Ol' Dirty Bastard E3 5c 1
329 Monster Traverse E3 6a ** 3
330 Hot Zipperty HVS 5a 3
  New, Unknown or Duplicates
332 A Serial Affair 6b 2
333 First Prize 5c 1
334 Spare Rib
-
6b 7

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