Climbs 321
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces SW

First day clipping in the sun © ben_lea

Crag features

The centre of mid and lower grade sport climbing in the Peak with many good routes between 6a and 7a, and a few below. Part of the quarry was purchased by the BMC in 2005 for the good of the nation, access is now freely allowed (with the usual caveats) and is dedicated as CROW land.

In 2017 a major rebolting excerise was undertaken on the routes on the BMC owned land, with a number of routes being decommisioned due to rock stability issues. Visitors should be aware that the quality of the bolts and indeed the rock itself might be of a significantly inferior standard in areas not owned by the BMC. See https://www.thebmc.co.uk/horseshoe-rebolting-round-up 

Quick drying and a good year round venue. Popular on sunny evenings. The best routes are on the Main Wall, 23m high, reasonably sound, but often sportingly bolted. Bolts and lower-offs on some routes have recently been replaced by the BMC, but this does not mean that the bolt spacing is comparable to an indoor wall. Best routes are Rain Dance (F6c+), Legal Action (F6c), Run For Your Wife (F6c+), Private Prosecution (F6c+), Litany Against Fear (F6b+), Megalithic Man (F6b+) and Shot Your Bolt (F6b+).

Sectors on either side off the Main Wall, and indeed above it on the Upper Tier, have been developed more recently and tend to be more closely bolted. However the rock tends to be less reliable, and although the BMC has undertaken some stabilization work, care should be exercised. Wearing a helmet is advisable, particularly when belaying. Nonetheless there are good routes to be found in most of the outlying areas - such as Rage (6b) and Excavator(5).

A few trad routes remain - such as Do Android Dream of Electric Sheep (E1 5c).

Up-to-the-minute topos can be found at www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

Approach notes

Parking for about 12 cars at the quarry entrance, which is just off the A623 at SK 205760, 1-2km west of Stoney Middleton. Do not block the turning circle. If this is full (which it often is), drive a little further west and park in the lay-bys either side of the road. Take care walking back along the road.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Now that the rebolting work is nearing completion can we expect to see published a list of routes rebolted, routes stripped and information on any routes that may have radically changed?
roger whetton - 30/Oct/17
Had a cracking day climbing here 21/04/14 round the toilet area, had no problems with rock falling off! The climbs were in good condition!
sam_whitehouse - 21/Apr/14
Climbed some lines on the slabs at the far end of the quarry on Saturday. A massive flake came off in my hands and split on the way down causing a chunk to hit my partners head. It has cracked her helmet and caused a slight head injury. I would seriously advise not to go up on here even if the lower grades are tempting as my piece wasn't the only piece that fell off!
Rhi Rhi - 22/Apr/13
Climbed a couple of lines on Guoranga Buttress Saturday and suggest avoiding them. It's all very loose and after doing a route we moved elsewhere for fear of doing more damage to the rock!
seanraby - 07/May/12
went there thursday last week and tuesday this week. did most of the 4+ on the slabs. good routes although the ground underneath is very eroded so be careful. Did latrine and removal man which were really good routes. good venue.
danimal - 10/Feb/11
Doodah Buttress is the short wall to the right of the upper tier. In the 1986 Stoney guide, but none of the more recent ones. Classics(?) include Pot-washer's wall (HVS 5b*) and Hot Zipperty (HVS 5a*). Rumour has it that this area has also been used for dry-tooling
Chris the Tall - 29/Oct/10
i just wanted to say thank you to the four guys who helped me on the 28-05-2010. i realy apreciate everything you did for me, from packing my gear to carrying it all out for me. but most of all for comforting clare while i was being treated. your a lovely bunch and i hope our paths will cross again someday, hopefully under better circumstances. best regards too you and a top venue. mike. no broken bones
mike-a-walton - 31/May/10
Horseshoe was one of the first of the peak district quarries to be developed to cater for the growing need of lower grade (sub 7s) sport climbing. It's amazing the place now sports over 250 routes although the quality of the vast majority of these is fairly poor. The crag is popular mainly because there are few other sport crags around that have many routes in the sixes and below. Being a disused quarry it's not exactly the most aesthetic place to climb but it's got a sunny aspect and it's far enough from the main road to at least be quiet. The main wall is by far the best part of the crag. The routes here lack natural lines: most are just blank walls linking up small features between the horizontal breaks. But good rock and interesting, and sometimes very technical climbing, more than make up for that. The bolts are in good condition, well placed and sometimes spaced far enough apart to add a little bit of excitement to the climbing too. If 6c is your grade Horseshoe has a handful of decent routes that make a visit definitely worthwhile.
stp - 19/Oct/09
i went last saturday , for my fisrt ever sport climbing day, apart from nearly pulling the routes off and leaving just a wall of soil, it was good, but it seemed as the routes get harder, it gets more polished, its a good crag but just needs a bit of getting used to. Ill be going back soon.
Liam Copley - 01/Jun/08
I agree with Wal's comments. But please don't light a bleedin' BBQ while people are climbing. There are so many varying sport routes here and still some excellent trad routes. I must have been here a dozen times over the last couple of years and tomorrow I'm going again cos it might be showery and it's easy to get off if you get caught in the rain - also there's nearly always something dry at Horseshoe if it's wet everywhere else.
Richard 261 - 09/Nov/07
Visited horseshoe for the first time on Sun 10 Jun 07 - after almost being put off by the earlier comments posted here. So glad I went! What a great sports climbing location! More than a hundred well bolted routes from 4 to 7, sheltered site, sun trap, tidy, no graffiti, no litter, easy access. What more could you want?
skyhigh269 - 11/Jun/07
Suitable for beginners/bottom-ropeing??? Right donw road from my aunties so is in fantastic location!
nolo - 24/Jun/06
When Iím hanging on by my finger-nails, I just donít seem to spend much time admiring the views!! For all its faults, there is a great selection of routes, itís very accessible and when the sun is out thereís plenty of space for Frisbees and barBQ.
Wal Holmes - 01/Jun/06
I must agree that the quarry is a good place to climb. And at what crag don't you get loose rock as all rock is vulnerable to weather conditions causing erosion.
MattieS - 09/May/06
i think it's a great place to climb there are just so many bolted routes at do-able grades. ok there's a fair bit of loose rock but if you're careful and wear helmets you'll be ok. it may not be beutiful and it may not be tranquil but the only time i've ever seen more climbable rock in one place was the grand canyon. in my opinion it's a great day out.
Josh - 01/Aug/05
After reading the comments above, I think there must be 2 Horseshoe quarries. In the one I go to, I have never encountered any polished routes. There are literally hundreds of good, well bolted routes in the 6a - 6c grades and even a few good trad routes. True enough, it's more like an outdoor climbing wall than a real crag, but my climbing is improving every time I go there. I'm looking forward to Pembroke in August, but I'll still keep going to Horseshoe.
Richard 261 - 26/Jun/05
Includes a gully at the left hand end of the lower tier described in On Peak Rock. "Quite Tricky, 50m"!
mad matt - 30/May/05
Been there today for the first time, i thought it was great and the sun was out.....cracking day! i know what you mean about the loose rock, bring on the adventure...............
JayJay - 12/May/05
I like it!
Adam Moroz - 18/Feb/05
There are sections of the quarry where you have to wonder "why bother?". If the BMC is to buy the quarry then serious consideration should be given as to whether some routes should be pulled down on safety grounds.
Bob - 06/Sep/04
So its not ideal, but what the hell, if you don't like, don't climb there, then it will not get so polished!!!!!!
Bob - 01/Sep/04
You might want to include a warning about loose rock and friable holds, particularly on the newer routes. Belayers should either wear a helmet or avoid standing directly below the route - or both - and even then you might not be safe!
Chris the Tall - 07/Aug/03
Well bolted but an extremely dangerous slab due to some very big loose rocks (especially on the first 2 routes from the left). If you are determined to climb there, a helmet is essential.
Antony - 16/Jul/03
Dont knock it. The best routes are good, particularly in the Legal Action to Megalithic area. Why would it be so popular if they were not? Beware some of the recent developmments though.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
I like it and most of my mates do as well, not a pretty place, but hey how many sports crags have we got? Some good routes on the top level. Stu
StuT - 08/Nov/02
A bloody awfull crag!!!! Dropped straight in the Peak from the Devil's backside. Embodies all the worst aspects of climbing, i.e. polished, badly bolted, chipped, quarried, ugly. We don't have to stoop to this....
Dave - 08/Nov/02
This place is so ugly people shouldn't be allowed to climb here.....actually I don't think you are allowed to climb here. [You are - UKC Ed.]
Stone Donkey - 08/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Routes that have fallen down
2 Monkey stole my walkman 6b * 11
  South Bay
4 NYD 6a+  
5 Pig in a Poke 5a 16
6 Bad Boys Ink 6a 30
7 Unruly Behaviour 6a+ 14
8 Treatment 6b 15
9 Therapy 6b+ * 38
10 Porgi Amor 6a+ * 76
11 Foreign Tongues 6a 58
12 Gouranga 6c * 22
13 You crack me up E1 5b 2
14 MiniGrip 7a+ 8
15 Unhung 6a+  
16 The Fire Hang 6b  
17 Hang Fire 6a  
18 The Gobbler 5c  
19 Christmas Presence 6c+  
  Heart Buttress
21 Nine Eleven 6a 2
22 Seven Eleven 6b * 3
23 Tors Colon 6c+ 2
24 Vent Your Spleen 7b * 6
25 Heart to Heart E4 6a *  
26 Sliver 6c+ * 2
27 Stomach Pump 7a+ 1
28 Skin Flint 6b+ 1
29 The Blood Bank 6b 3
30 Sharing Best Practice 6a+ 1
31 Taylor-Parkinson Gully IV 5 1
  Chocolate Blancmange Wall
33 Barney Rubble 5c 45
34 Chauvi's Slab 5c * 85
35 Still Nacht 5c 19
36 Trog 5a 94
37 Neanderthal 5c 218
38 Men at Work 5a 95
39 The Quarrymen 6a 129
40 Excavator 5c * 458
41 Slab Cake 4c 210
42 Spare Rib #1 5a 107
43 The Cake Walk 4a 180
44 Christmas Pud 4c 135
45 Sago Slab 4a 173
46 Dream Topping 4c 192
47 Chocolate Blancmange Gully none xvd 5
48 Cinema Rage E1 5b 1
  Africa Buttress
50 Elizabethville 6a 1
51 Burundi 6b  
52 Townships 6c+  
53 Victoria Falls 6b 2
54 Kariba 6a+ 3
55 Zanzibar 6b 3
56 Simonstone 6c+ * 1
57 Out of Africa 6b+ 7
58 Madagasca 6b * 28
59 Bird Island 6a * 41
60 Seychelles 6b 11
61 Rainbow Warrior 6c * 33
62 Weakened Warrior 6b 7
63 Sam In You Eye 6a+ 23
64 Ring Thane 6c+ 5
65 Pretoria 6b+  
66 Mombassa 6a * 2
67 Greenpeace 6a 5
  Left Hand Walls
69 During the War 6a+ * 52
70 Before the War 5a 87
71 Sahara 6b+ 10
72 Union Jack 5a 67
73 African't 6b+ 5
74 Desperate Dan 6b 10
75 Fine and Dandy 6b 3
76 African 6a+ 13
77 Bloodguard 6c+ 7
78 Grab yer Mandrakes 6b 22
79 Tirfin Mandrakes 6a+ 7
80 Tirfin USA 6a+ * 70
81 Tirf's High 6a+ 46
82 Race of the Freuds 6b+ 29
83 Peckling Fever 5c 245
84 Senter Home 6a 94
85 Tirf 'er Off 6a+ 43
86 63 Tomorrow 6c  
87 Mail on Sunday 6b * 58
88 Bootiful Bernard Mathews 6b * 32
89 Nowt Taken Out 6b 25
90 Foul's Bane 6a+ * 93
91 Drool Rock Worm 6b 15
92 Stone Throat 6b * 28
93 Slay the Gray 6b 11
94 Mr. Cellulite's Arete 6a+ 37
95 Bandolier 6a 108
96 Underslung 6b+ 4
97 The Little Thin Mexican Across the Border 6b * 21
98 Desperate Measures
-
6b+ 15
  Left Hand Walls (BMC land)
100 The Mexican takes Lexicon 6a+ 137
101 Exceeding the Speed Limit 6b 22
102 Mind Your Head 6b+ 23
103 Desperate Housewives 6a 31
104 Collared 6a 228
105 Spare Rib #2 6b 59
106 Eddie McStiff 6a+ * 72
107 Pelvic Thrust 6b 65
108 The Hippy Hippy Shakes 6a+ 61
109 Due Care and Attention 6a+ 194
110 Any Old Iron 6a 192
111 Sunday Sport 6b * 312
112 Austin Powers 6b 83
113 The Big Fat Texan on the Corner 6a * 555
114 He Seems so Sumo 6a 258
115 Olive Oil 6a 172
116 Removal Man 4c 262
117 Some Place 6b 30
118 Sag Ponir 5c * 509
  Main Wall
120 Pale Rider 6a * 1254
121 Rain Dance 6c ** 275
122 The Colostomy Finish 7a 36
123 Physical Fizz 6c 32
124 School's Out 6a+ ** 998
125 Rotund Rooley/Schools Out combo 6a * 33
126 Rotund Rooley 6b ** 660
127 Wave of Mutilation 7a * 148
128 First Day Of Winter HVS 5b * 23
129 Wall of Jericho 6b * 490
130 The Leading Line 6b+ * 143
131 Say it With Flowers 6c ** 212
132 Legal Action 6c ** 292
133 Run For Your Wife 6c+ ** 87
134 Private Prosecution 6c *** 352
135 Litany Against Fear 6c ** 259
136 Megalithic Man 6b+ ** 618
137 Megalithic Man (Direct Finish) 6c+ ** 80
138 Poisonality 7a * 64
139 An Ancient Rhythm 6c ** 112
140 Demolition Man 7a ** 118
141 Shot the Conformist 6c+ * 1
142 Shot Yer Bolt 6b+ ** 348
143 Southern Man 7a+ * 45
144 Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge 6b+ * 99
145 Flat World 7a+ * 54
146 Lost Monolith 6b+ * 61
147 The French Connection E4 6a 2
148 Conformist E2 6a 4
149 Screwy Driver E1 5b 21
150 Harvey Wallbanger 6b 6
151 Sound as a Carp E1 5b 1
152 Spring Awakening HVS 5a 16
  Androids Sector
154 Mutley Stole my Route Man 6b 8
155 Winter Fingers
-
6b 13
156 Broken to Bits
-
6c+ 1
157 Down to the Last
-
6b 6
158 Fragmented
-
6c 3
159 Mice Breaker 6b+ 7
160 Finishing off 6b+ 15
161 Spectophotometry E1 5b 7
162 50 Bolts to the Gallon 6a 136
163 Like Fire Like Ice 6a 80
164 Like Ice, Like Fire (Trad) E1 5b * 47
165 Galening Crack HVS 5a ** 50
166 Compromise E2 5b 6
167 Promises 6a+ 55
168 The Rottin' Word 6c 7
169 Decaydence 6c 5
170 Order Number 59 E2 5c 5
171 A Right Earful 6a+ * 180
172 Clean Your Mouth Out 6c+ * 23
173 The Dust Bunnies 7a * 18
174 Lets Kill Dill E4 6a 2
175 Dalken Shield 6b * 71
176 Hardcore! You Know the Score 6b * 162
177 The Director's Cut 6a+ * 113
178 Blade Runner 6a+ * 62
179 Bruce's Bonus 6b * 149
180 Androids Direct E1 5b * 9
181 Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? E2 5c * 82
182 Rage 6b * 128
183 The Running Man 6b * 93
184 The Long Walk 6c 6
185 The Dark Tower 6b+ 15
186 The Drawing of the Three 6b+ 7
187 Willie the Kid 6a+ * 88
188 Calamity Jane 6b+ 28
189 Jeff Garrett 6a+ * 55
190 The Dogs 6b 31
191 Derailed 6a+ * 72
192 Passage of Time 6b * 97
  Toilet Sector
194 The Sewer 6a+ 158
195 Latrine 5a 572
196 Armitage 6a 281
197 Shanks 6a 137
198 Potty 6a 162
199 Psycho Ceramic 6a+ 124
200 The Bog 6a * 263
201 Twyfords 6a+ 283
202 The Small Room 6a+ * 244
203 Thomas Crapper 6a * 439
204 Two Loos 4c * 406
205 Montezuma's Revenge 6b 177
206 Latrec 5a * 425
207 Toilet Graffiti 5c 182
208 Toilet Humour 5a 173
209 De Throne 5a 187
210 On Uranus 6a * 124
211 Eau de Toilette 6a 62
212 Wipe it Clean 6a 19
213 Andrex 6b 41
214 Easy Come, Easy Go 3a 62
  Upper Tier (West Side)
  Top Quarry
217 Mickey 3a 32
218 Minnie 3a 37
219 Daffy 4a 35
220 Goofy 3c 28
221 Donald 3c 27
222 Pluto 3c 23
223 A Tracky Little Problem 4a 58
224 Tracker Bar
-
5c 9
225 A Tracky Little Bleeder 5a 53
226 Gargle Blaster 6a 319
227 Uranus 3c 530
228 Luke Skywalker 4a * 446
229 Klingon 4a 477
230 Saturns Rings 4c 312
231 Vogon 6a 328
232 Dr. Who? 6a * 162
233 Torchwood 5c 101
234 Beam me Across Scotty! 5a 132
235 The Libertines 6b 1
236 Taking Liberties 6c+ 5
237 Statuesque 6a 8
238 Mucker's Wall 6a+ 51
239 A Fit of Peak 6a+ 11
240 Citizen's Arete 5a 103
241 Fredonia 6b 3
242 Drumming in a Lay-by E1 5b 1
243 Greedor E2 5b * 1
244 The Whinger 6a+ 29
245 Off Limits 6a+ 42
  Upper Tier (East side)
247 Brew Thyme 6a 3
248 Thyme Out 6a 3
249 Whats the Thyme 6a 3
250 Bridge Over the River Thyme 5a 5
251 Bit of Spare Thyme 5c 4
252 Fat Betty 4c 17
253 Take Your Thyme 5c 13
254 Porridge 4c * 27
255 Crunch yer Nuts 4a * 37
256 Soggy Bottom Boys 6b+ * 10
257 Man of Constant Sorrow 5c 29
258 Big Rock Candy Mountain 6a 61
259 Everett's Arete 5c 16
260 Repulse 5a 19
261 Prince of Wales 5c 14
262 That Old DA Look 4a 30
263 FOP 6a 21
  Upper Tier (BMC land)
265 In The Jailhouse 6a 7
266 Po Lazarus 5c 6
267 No Way is Patience a Virtue 6b * 144
268 Whilst the Cats away 6c 1
269 O Brother Where Art Thou? 6a * 162
270 Unnamed (Narrow Pillar) 6a 6
271 Dapper Dan 6a * 119
272 Babe The Blue Axe 5c 97
273 Cretan 6b+ 12
274 Corinthian Spirit 6a 42
275 Theseus-Saurus 6b+ 13
276 It's all Greek to Me 6b * 37
277 The Miner Tour 6c+ 4
278 Olympiakus 6c  
279 Her Aklion 6c 5
280 Almost There 5a 62
281 Into the Labyrinth 6a * 190
282 Into the Labyrinth (Trad)
-
E1 5b 11
283 By Zeus 6a+ * 149
284 Spiteful Rain (First Prize) 5c 197
285 Commiseration 5a 5
286 Second Prize 6a 54
287 Consolation 5c * 150
288 Tawny Owl Pie 5a 77
289 The Owl 6c 17
290 White Dove E1 5b * 16
291 Nullo in Mundo Pax Sincera 6c+ 5
292 Two Flat Whites 6a+  
293 Supplementary Question (Slab and Corner) 4c * 186
294 A Liberal Smear 6c 10
295 No Flair Blair E3 5c * 1
296 Labour Relations 6c+ 25
297 P.M.'s Question Time E3 6a 5
298 Avoiding the Issue E4 6a * 1
299 Booker Prize 6a+ * 88
300 Sir Pryze 6a+ * 151
301 Take It Easy 6b 5
302 Oy Missus 6c+ 5
303 Mr. Blue Sky 7a * 24
304 Esso Blue HVS 5b 6
305 Smoke Gets in Your Eyes 6c * 24
306 Shell Super 6c 3
307 Esso Extra E1 5b 3
308 Mumble Jumble 7a * 7
309 Fargo 6a+ 41
310 Blue Sunday
-
6b 55
311 Do It Yourself 6b+ 5
312 New Bolts And Yankees 6a 26
313 Kushti 6a+ 39
314 Lovely Bubbly 6c+ 5
315 Slabby but Nice 6a * 125
316 Sam And Mary 5a 21
317 Ma Marmalade 6a+ 12
318 Slam the Jam 6a 81
319 Jam Slice 6b 5
320 Don't Try This at Home 6c+ 1
321 Red Rum 5c 30
322 Nijinski E2 5b * 24
323 Seated Moon E2 5b ** 4
324 The Party Animal 6b * 45
325 Café Bleu E3 6a 10
326 Dinky Toy E4 6b 10
327 Corgi Registered 6b 5
328 Hornby 6a+ 5
  Doodah Buttress
330 Ol' Dirty Bastard E3 5c 1
331 Monster Traverse E3 6a ** 3
332 Hot Zipperty HVS 5a 3
  New, Unknown or Duplicates
334 A Serial Affair 6b 2
335 First Prize 5c 1
336 The Soggy 6b  
337 Spare Rib
-
6b 5

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