Climbs 321
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces SW

First day clipping in the sun © ben_lea

Crag features

The centre of mid and lower grade sport climbing in the Peak with many good routes between 6a and 7a, and a few below. Purchased by the BMC in 2005 for the good of the nation, access is now freely allowed (with the usual caveats) and is dedicated as CROW land.

Quick drying and a good year round venue. Popular on sunny evenings. The best routes are on the Main Wall, 23m high, reasonably sound, but often sportingly bolted. Bolts and lower-offs on some routes have recently been replaced by the BMC, but this does not mean that the bolt spacing is comparable to an indoor wall. Best routes are Rain Dance (F6c+), Legal Action (F6c), Run For Your Wife (F6c+), Private Prosecution (F6c+), Litany Against Fear (F6b+), Megalithic Man (F6b+) and Shot Your Bolt (F6b+).

Sectors on either side off the Main Wall, and indeed above it on the Upper Tier, have been developed more recently and tend to be more closely bolted. However the rock tends to be less reliable, and although the BMC has undertaken some stabilization work, care should be exercised. Wearing a helmet is advisable, particularly when belaying. Nonetheless there are good routes to be found in most of the outlying areas - such as Rage (6b) and Excavator(5).

A few trad routes remain - such as Do Android Dream of Electric Sheep (E1 5c).

Up-to-the-minute topos can be found at www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

Approach notes

Parking for about 12 cars at the quarry entrance, which is just off the A623 at SK 205760, 1-2km west of Stoney Middleton. Do not block the turning circle. If this is full (which it often is), drive a little further west and park in the lay-bys either side of the road. Take care walking back along the road.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Had a cracking day climbing here 21/04/14 round the toilet area, had no problems with rock falling off! The climbs were in good condition!
sam_whitehouse - 21/Apr/14
Climbed some lines on the slabs at the far end of the quarry on Saturday. A massive flake came off in my hands and split on the way down causing a chunk to hit my partners head. It has cracked her helmet and caused a slight head injury. I would seriously advise not to go up on here even if the lower grades are tempting as my piece wasn't the only piece that fell off!
Rhi Rhi - 22/Apr/13
Climbed a couple of lines on Guoranga Buttress Saturday and suggest avoiding them. It's all very loose and after doing a route we moved elsewhere for fear of doing more damage to the rock!
seanraby - 07/May/12
went there thursday last week and tuesday this week. did most of the 4+ on the slabs. good routes although the ground underneath is very eroded so be careful. Did latrine and removal man which were really good routes. good venue.
danimal - 10/Feb/11
Doodah Buttress is the short wall to the right of the upper tier. In the 1986 Stoney guide, but none of the more recent ones. Classics(?) include Pot-washer's wall (HVS 5b*) and Hot Zipperty (HVS 5a*). Rumour has it that this area has also been used for dry-tooling
Chris the Tall - 29/Oct/10
i just wanted to say thank you to the four guys who helped me on the 28-05-2010. i realy apreciate everything you did for me, from packing my gear to carrying it all out for me. but most of all for comforting clare while i was being treated. your a lovely bunch and i hope our paths will cross again someday, hopefully under better circumstances. best regards too you and a top venue. mike. no broken bones
mike-a-walton - 31/May/10
Horseshoe was one of the first of the peak district quarries to be developed to cater for the growing need of lower grade (sub 7s) sport climbing. It's amazing the place now sports over 250 routes although the quality of the vast majority of these is fairly poor. The crag is popular mainly because there are few other sport crags around that have many routes in the sixes and below. Being a disused quarry it's not exactly the most aesthetic place to climb but it's got a sunny aspect and it's far enough from the main road to at least be quiet. The main wall is by far the best part of the crag. The routes here lack natural lines: most are just blank walls linking up small features between the horizontal breaks. But good rock and interesting, and sometimes very technical climbing, more than make up for that. The bolts are in good condition, well placed and sometimes spaced far enough apart to add a little bit of excitement to the climbing too. If 6c is your grade Horseshoe has a handful of decent routes that make a visit definitely worthwhile.
stp - 19/Oct/09
i went last saturday , for my fisrt ever sport climbing day, apart from nearly pulling the routes off and leaving just a wall of soil, it was good, but it seemed as the routes get harder, it gets more polished, its a good crag but just needs a bit of getting used to. Ill be going back soon.
Liam Copley - 01/Jun/08
I agree with Wal's comments. But please don't light a bleedin' BBQ while people are climbing. There are so many varying sport routes here and still some excellent trad routes. I must have been here a dozen times over the last couple of years and tomorrow I'm going again cos it might be showery and it's easy to get off if you get caught in the rain - also there's nearly always something dry at Horseshoe if it's wet everywhere else.
Richard 261 - 09/Nov/07
Visited horseshoe for the first time on Sun 10 Jun 07 - after almost being put off by the earlier comments posted here. So glad I went! What a great sports climbing location! More than a hundred well bolted routes from 4 to 7, sheltered site, sun trap, tidy, no graffiti, no litter, easy access. What more could you want?
skyhigh269 - 11/Jun/07
Suitable for beginners/bottom-ropeing??? Right donw road from my aunties so is in fantastic location!
nolo - 24/Jun/06
When Iím hanging on by my finger-nails, I just donít seem to spend much time admiring the views!! For all its faults, there is a great selection of routes, itís very accessible and when the sun is out thereís plenty of space for Frisbees and barBQ.
Wal Holmes - 01/Jun/06
I must agree that the quarry is a good place to climb. And at what crag don't you get loose rock as all rock is vulnerable to weather conditions causing erosion.
MattieS - 09/May/06
i think it's a great place to climb there are just so many bolted routes at do-able grades. ok there's a fair bit of loose rock but if you're careful and wear helmets you'll be ok. it may not be beutiful and it may not be tranquil but the only time i've ever seen more climbable rock in one place was the grand canyon. in my opinion it's a great day out.
Josh - 01/Aug/05
After reading the comments above, I think there must be 2 Horseshoe quarries. In the one I go to, I have never encountered any polished routes. There are literally hundreds of good, well bolted routes in the 6a - 6c grades and even a few good trad routes. True enough, it's more like an outdoor climbing wall than a real crag, but my climbing is improving every time I go there. I'm looking forward to Pembroke in August, but I'll still keep going to Horseshoe.
Richard 261 - 26/Jun/05
Includes a gully at the left hand end of the lower tier described in On Peak Rock. "Quite Tricky, 50m"!
mad matt - 30/May/05
Been there today for the first time, i thought it was great and the sun was out.....cracking day! i know what you mean about the loose rock, bring on the adventure...............
JayJay - 12/May/05
I like it!
Adam Moroz - 18/Feb/05
There are sections of the quarry where you have to wonder "why bother?". If the BMC is to buy the quarry then serious consideration should be given as to whether some routes should be pulled down on safety grounds.
Bob - 06/Sep/04
So its not ideal, but what the hell, if you don't like, don't climb there, then it will not get so polished!!!!!!
Bob - 01/Sep/04
You might want to include a warning about loose rock and friable holds, particularly on the newer routes. Belayers should either wear a helmet or avoid standing directly below the route - or both - and even then you might not be safe!
Chris the Tall - 07/Aug/03
Well bolted but an extremely dangerous slab due to some very big loose rocks (especially on the first 2 routes from the left). If you are determined to climb there, a helmet is essential.
Antony - 16/Jul/03
Dont knock it. The best routes are good, particularly in the Legal Action to Megalithic area. Why would it be so popular if they were not? Beware some of the recent developmments though.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
I like it and most of my mates do as well, not a pretty place, but hey how many sports crags have we got? Some good routes on the top level. Stu
StuT - 08/Nov/02
A bloody awfull crag!!!! Dropped straight in the Peak from the Devil's backside. Embodies all the worst aspects of climbing, i.e. polished, badly bolted, chipped, quarried, ugly. We don't have to stoop to this....
Dave - 08/Nov/02
This place is so ugly people shouldn't be allowed to climb here.....actually I don't think you are allowed to climb here. [You are - UKC Ed.]
Stone Donkey - 08/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  Routes that have fallen down
2 Monkey stole my walkman 6b * 11
  South Bay
4 NYD 6a+  
5 Pig in a Poke 5a 12
6 Bad Boys Ink 6a 28
7 Unruly Behaviour 6a+ 14
8 Treatment 6b 15
9 Therapy 6b+ * 37
10 Porgi Amor 6a+ * 75
11 Foreign Tongues 6a 58
12 Gouranga 6c * 22
13 You crack me up E1 5b 2
14 MiniGrip 7a+ 8
15 Unhung 6a+  
16 The Fire Hang 6b  
17 Hang Fire 6a  
18 The Gobbler 5c  
19 Christmas Presence 6c+  
  Heart Buttress
21 Nine Eleven 6a 2
22 Seven Eleven 6b * 3
23 Tors Colon 6c+ 2
24 Vent Your Spleen 7b * 4
25 Heart to Heart E4 6a *  
26 Sliver 6c+ * 2
27 Stomach Pump 7a+ 1
28 Skin Flint 6b+ 1
29 The Blood Bank 6b 3
30 Sharing Best Practice 6a+ 1
31 Taylor-Parkinson Gully IV 5 1
  Chocolate Blancmange Wall
33 Barney Rubble 5c 40
34 Chauvi's Slab 5c * 83
35 Still Nacht 5c 17
36 Trog 5a 94
37 Neanderthal 5c 214
38 Men at Work 5a 93
39 The Quarrymen 6a 122
40 Excavator 5c * 449
41 Slab Cake 4c 201
42 Spare Rib #1 5a 103
43 The Cake Walk 4a 174
44 Christmas Pud 4c 132
45 Sago Slab 4a 168
46 Dream Topping 4c 191
47 Chocolate Blancmange Gully none xvd 5
48 Cinema Rage E1 5b 1
  Africa Buttress
50 Elizabethville 6a 1
51 Burundi 6b  
52 Townships 6c+  
53 Victoria Falls 6b 2
54 Kariba 6a+ 3
55 Zanzibar 6b 3
56 Simonstone 6c+ * 1
57 Out of Africa 6b+ 7
58 Madagasca 6b * 25
59 Bird Island 6a * 41
60 Seychelles 6b 11
61 Rainbow Warrior 6c * 31
62 Weakened Warrior 6b 7
63 Sam In You Eye 6a+ 23
64 Ring Thane 6c+ 5
65 Pretoria 6b+  
66 Mombassa 6a * 2
67 Greenpeace 6a 5
  Left Hand Walls
69 During the War 6a+ * 51
70 Before the War 5a 86
71 Sahara 6b+ 10
72 Union Jack 5a 66
73 African't 6b+ 5
74 Desperate Dan 6b 10
75 Fine and Dandy 6b 3
76 African 6a+ 10
77 Bloodguard 6c+ 7
78 Grab yer Mandrakes 6b 19
79 Tirfin Mandrakes 6a+ 7
80 Tirfin USA 6a+ * 67
81 Tirf's High 6a+ 46
82 Race of the Freuds 6b+ 29
83 Peckling Fever 5c 241
84 Senter Home 6a 91
85 Tirf 'er Off 6a+ 42
86 63 Tomorrow 6c  
87 Mail on Sunday 6b * 57
88 Bootiful Bernard Mathews 6b * 30
89 Nowt Taken Out 6b 25
90 Foul's Bane 6a+ * 90
91 Drool Rock Worm 6b 15
92 Stone Throat 6b * 25
93 Slay the Gray 6b 9
94 Mr. Cellulite's Arete 6a+ 36
95 Bandolier 6a 103
96 Underslung 6b+ 4
97 The Little Thin Mexican Across the Border 6b * 20
98 Desperate Measures 6b+ 15
99 The Mexican takes Lexicon 6a+ * 134
100 Exceeding the Speed Limit 6b 22
101 Mind Your Head 6b+ 20
102 Desperate Housewives 6a 31
103 Collared 6a * 224
104 Spare Rib #2 6b 59
105 Eddie McStiff 6a+ 71
106 Pelvic Thrust 6b 65
107 The Hippy Hippy Shakes 6a+ 60
108 Due Care and Attention 6a+ 192
109 Any Old Iron 6a 189
110 Sunday Sport 6b * 305
111 Austin Powers 6b 83
112 The Big Fat Texan on the Corner 6a * 545
113 He Seems so Sumo 6a 258
114 Olive Oil 6a 169
115 Removal Man 4c 252
116 Some Place 6b 30
117 Sag Ponir 5c * 497
  Main Wall
119 Pale Rider 6a * 1231
120 Rain Dance 6c ** 270
121 The Colostomy Finish 7a 35
122 Physical Fizz 6c 32
123 School's Out 6a+ ** 984
124 Rotund Rooley/Schools Out combo 6a * 31
125 Rotund Rooley 6b ** 651
126 Wave of Mutilation 7a * 140
127 First Day Of Winter HVS 5b * 23
128 Wall of Jericho 6b * 482
129 The Leading Line 6b+ * 141
130 Say it With Flowers 6c ** 207
131 Legal Action 6c ** 285
132 Run For Your Wife 6c+ ** 81
133 Private Prosecution 6c *** 337
134 Litany Against Fear 6c ** 250
135 Megalithic Man 6b+ ** 605
136 Megalithic Man (Direct Finish) 6c+ ** 76
137 Poisonality 7a * 60
138 An Ancient Rhythm 6c ** 108
139 Demolition Man 7a ** 113
140 Shot Yer Bolt 6b+ ** 342
141 Southern Man 7a+ * 42
142 Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge 6b+ * 96
143 Flat World 7a+ * 52
144 Lost Monolith 6b+ * 56
145 The French Connection E4 6a 2
146 Conformist E2 6a 4
147 Screwy Driver E1 5b 21
148 Harvey Wallbanger 6b 6
149 Sound as a Carp E1 5b 1
150 Spring Awakening HVS 5a 16
  Androids Sector
152 Mutley Stole my Route Man 6b 8
153 Winter Fingers 6b 13
154 Broken to Bits 6c+ 1
155 Down to the Last 6b 6
156 Fragmented 6c 3
157 Mice Breaker 6b+ 7
158 Finishing off 6b+ 15
159 Spectophotometry E1 5b 7
160 50 Bolts to the Gallon 6a 128
161 Like Fire Like Ice 6a 70
162 Like Ice, Like Fire (Trad) E1 5b * 47
163 Galening Crack HVS 5a ** 49
164 Compromise E2 5b 6
165 Promises 6a+ 53
166 The Rottin' Word 6c 7
167 Decaydence 6c 5
168 Order Number 59 E2 5c 5
169 A Right Earful 6a+ * 175
170 Clean Your Mouth Out 6c+ * 23
171 The Dust Bunnies 7a * 17
172 Lets Kill Dill E4 6a 2
173 Dalken Shield 6b * 71
174 Hardcore! You Know the Score 6b * 159
175 The Director's Cut 6a+ * 113
176 Blade Runner 6a+ * 59
177 Bruce's Bonus 6b * 147
178 Androids Direct E1 5b * 9
179 Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? E2 5c * 82
180 Rage 6b * 116
181 The Running Man 6b * 93
182 The Long Walk 6c 6
183 The Dark Tower 6b+ 15
184 The Drawing of the Three 6b+ 7
185 Willie the Kid 6a+ * 80
186 Calamity Jane 6b+ 28
187 Jeff Garrett 6a+ * 52
188 The Dogs 6b 31
189 Derailed 6a+ * 67
190 Passage of Time 6b * 89
  Toilet Sector
192 The Sewer 6a+ 149
193 Latrine 5a 557
194 Armitage 6a 273
195 Shanks 6a 133
196 Potty 6a 162
197 Psycho Ceramic 6a+ 116
198 The Bog 6a * 259
199 Twyfords 6a+ 277
200 The Small Room 6a+ * 234
201 Thomas Crapper 6a * 428
202 Two Loos 4c * 395
203 Montezuma's Revenge 6b 174
204 Latrec 5a * 412
205 Toilet Graffiti 5c 178
206 Toilet Humour 5a 169
207 De Throne 5a 182
208 On Uranus 6a * 118
209 Eau de Toilette 6a 58
210 Wipe it Clean 6a 19
211 Andrex 6b 41
212 Easy Come, Easy Go 3 62
  Upper Tier (West Side)
  Top Quarry
215 Mickey 3 31
216 Minnie 3 36
217 Daffy 4a 34
218 Goofy 3+ 27
219 Donald 3+ 26
220 Pluto 3+ 22
221 A Tracky Little Problem 4a 55
222 Tracker Bar
-
5c 8
223 A Tracky Little Bleeder 5a 51
224 Gargle Blaster 6a 315
225 Uranus 3+ 519
226 Luke Skywalker 4a * 436
227 Klingon 4a 471
228 Saturns Rings 4c 308
229 Vogon 6a 319
230 Dr. Who? 6a * 158
231 Torchwood 5c 100
232 Beam me Across Scotty! 5a 131
233 The Libertines 6b  
234 Taking Liberties 6c+ 4
235 Statuesque 6a 7
236 Mucker's Wall 6a+ 47
237 A Fit of Peak 6a+ 10
238 Citizen's Arete 5a 102
239 Fredonia 6b 3
240 Drumming in a Lay-by E1 5b 1
241 Greedor E2 5b * 1
242 The Whinger 6a+ 28
243 Off Limits 6a+ 40
  Upper Tier (East side)
245 Brew Thyme 6a 3
246 Thyme Out 6a 3
247 Whats the Thyme 6a 3
248 Bridge Over the River Thyme 5a 5
249 Bit of Spare Thyme 5c 4
250 Fat Betty 4c 17
251 Take Your Thyme 5c 13
252 Porridge 4c * 27
253 Crunch yer Nuts 4a * 37
254 Soggy Bottom Boys 6b+ * 10
255 Man of Constant Sorrow 5c 29
256 Big Rock Candy Mountain 6a 59
257 Everett's Arete 5c 16
258 Repulse 5a 17
259 Prince of Wales 5c 14
260 That Old DA Look 4a 27
261 FOP 6a 21
262 In The Jailhouse 6a 7
263 Po Lazarus 5c 6
264 No Way is Patience a Virtue 6b * 138
265 Whilst the Cats away 6c 1
266 O Brother Where Art Thou? 6a * 155
267 Unnamed (Narrow Pillar) 6a 6
268 Dapper Dan 6a * 110
269 Babe The Blue Axe 5c 95
270 Cretan 6b+ 10
271 Corinthian Spirit 6a 35
272 Theseus-Saurus 6b+ 8
273 It's all Greek to Me 6b * 33
274 The Miner Tour 6c+ 4
275 Olympiakus 6c  
276 Her Aklion 6c 5
277 Almost There 5a 61
278 Into the Labyrinth 6a * 180
279 Into the Labyrinth (Trad)
-
E1 5b 9
280 By Zeus 6a+ * 137
281 Spiteful Rain (First Prize) 5c 191
282 Commiseration 5a 3
283 Second Prize 6a 50
284 Consolation 5c * 143
285 Tawny Owl Pie 5a 75
286 The Owl 6c 17
287 White Dove E1 5b * 16
288 Nullo in Mundo Pax Sincera 6c+ 5
289 Two Flat Whites 6a+  
290 Supplementary Question (Slab and Corner) 4c * 180
291 A Liberal Smear 6c 10
292 No Flair Blair E3 5c * 1
293 Labour Relations 6c+ 25
294 P.M.'s Question Time E3 6a 5
295 Avoiding the Issue E4 6a * 1
296 Booker Prize 6a+ * 85
297 Sir Pryze 6a+ * 147
298 Take It Easy 6b 5
299 Oy Missus 6c+ 5
300 Mr. Blue Sky 7a * 23
301 Esso Blue HVS 5b 6
302 Smoke Gets in Your Eyes 6c * 22
303 Shell Super 6c 3
304 Esso Extra E1 5b 3
305 Mumble Jumble 7a * 7
306 Fargo 6a+ 41
307 Blue Sunday 6b * 54
308 Do It Yourself 6b+ 5
309 New Bolts And Yankees 6a 25
310 Kushti 6a+ 38
311 Lovely Bubbly 6c+ 5
312 Slabby but Nice 6a * 121
313 Sam And Mary 5a 19
314 Ma Marmalade 6a+ 10
315 Slam the Jam 6a * 75
316 Jam Slice 6b 5
317 Don't Try This at Home 6c+ 1
318 Red Rum 5c 28
319 Nijinski E2 5b * 24
320 Seated Moon E2 5b ** 4
321 The Party Animal 6b * 42
322 Café Bleu E3 6a 10
323 Dinky Toy E4 6b 10
324 Corgi Registered 6b 5
325 Hornby 6a+ 5
  Doodah Buttress
327 Ol' Dirty Bastard E3 5c 1
328 Monster Traverse E3 6a ** 3
329 Hot Zipperty HVS 5a 3
  New, Unknown or Duplicates
331 A Serial Affair 6b 2
332 First Prize 5c 1
333 The Soggy 6b  
334 Spare Rib 6b 5
335 Shot the Conformist * 6c+ * 1
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Chris the Tall