Climbs 321
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Rob Greenwood on Shot Yer Bolt (6b+) on the Main Wall at Horseshoe © Alan James

Crag features

The centre of mid and lower grade sport climbing in the Peak with many good routes between 6a and 7a, and a few below. Part of the quarry was purchased by the BMC in 2005 for the good of the nation, access is now freely allowed (with the usual caveats) and is dedicated as CROW land.

In 2017 a major rebolting excerise was undertaken on the routes on the BMC owned land, with a number of routes being decommisioned due to rock stability issues. Visitors should be aware that the quality of the bolts and indeed the rock itself might be of a significantly inferior standard in areas not owned by the BMC. See https://www.thebmc.co.uk/horseshoe-rebolting-round-up 

Quick drying and a good year round venue. Popular on sunny evenings. The best routes are on the Main Wall, 23m high, reasonably sound, but often sportingly bolted. Bolts and lower-offs on some routes have recently been replaced by the BMC, but this does not mean that the bolt spacing is comparable to an indoor wall. Best routes are Rain Dance (F6c+), Legal Action (F6c), Run For Your Wife (F6c+), Private Prosecution (F6c+), Litany Against Fear (F6b+), Megalithic Man (F6b+) and Shot Your Bolt (F6b+).

Sectors on either side off the Main Wall, and indeed above it on the Upper Tier, have been developed more recently and tend to be more closely bolted. However the rock tends to be less reliable, and although the BMC has undertaken some stabilization work, care should be exercised. Wearing a helmet is advisable, particularly when belaying. Nonetheless there are good routes to be found in most of the outlying areas - such as Rage (6b) and Excavator(5).

A few trad routes remain - such as Do Android Dream of Electric Sheep (E1 5c).

Up-to-the-minute topos can be found at www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

Approach notes

Parking for about 12 cars at the quarry entrance, which is just off the A623 at SK 205760, 1-2km west of Stoney Middleton. Do not block the turning circle. If this is full (which it often is), drive a little further west and park in the lay-bys either side of the road. Take care walking back along the road.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Now that the rebolting work is nearing completion can we expect to see published a list of routes rebolted, routes stripped and information on any routes that may have radically changed?
roger whetton - 30/Oct/17
Had a cracking day climbing here 21/04/14 round the toilet area, had no problems with rock falling off! The climbs were in good condition!
sam_whitehouse - 21/Apr/14
Climbed some lines on the slabs at the far end of the quarry on Saturday. A massive flake came off in my hands and split on the way down causing a chunk to hit my partners head. It has cracked her helmet and caused a slight head injury. I would seriously advise not to go up on here even if the lower grades are tempting as my piece wasn't the only piece that fell off!
Rhi Rhi - 22/Apr/13
Climbed a couple of lines on Guoranga Buttress Saturday and suggest avoiding them. It's all very loose and after doing a route we moved elsewhere for fear of doing more damage to the rock!
seanraby - 07/May/12
went there thursday last week and tuesday this week. did most of the 4+ on the slabs. good routes although the ground underneath is very eroded so be careful. Did latrine and removal man which were really good routes. good venue.
danimal - 10/Feb/11
Doodah Buttress is the short wall to the right of the upper tier. In the 1986 Stoney guide, but none of the more recent ones. Classics(?) include Pot-washer's wall (HVS 5b*) and Hot Zipperty (HVS 5a*). Rumour has it that this area has also been used for dry-tooling
Chris the Tall - 29/Oct/10
i just wanted to say thank you to the four guys who helped me on the 28-05-2010. i realy apreciate everything you did for me, from packing my gear to carrying it all out for me. but most of all for comforting clare while i was being treated. your a lovely bunch and i hope our paths will cross again someday, hopefully under better circumstances. best regards too you and a top venue. mike. no broken bones
mike-a-walton - 31/May/10
Horseshoe was one of the first of the peak district quarries to be developed to cater for the growing need of lower grade (sub 7s) sport climbing. It's amazing the place now sports over 250 routes although the quality of the vast majority of these is fairly poor. The crag is popular mainly because there are few other sport crags around that have many routes in the sixes and below. Being a disused quarry it's not exactly the most aesthetic place to climb but it's got a sunny aspect and it's far enough from the main road to at least be quiet. The main wall is by far the best part of the crag. The routes here lack natural lines: most are just blank walls linking up small features between the horizontal breaks. But good rock and interesting, and sometimes very technical climbing, more than make up for that. The bolts are in good condition, well placed and sometimes spaced far enough apart to add a little bit of excitement to the climbing too. If 6c is your grade Horseshoe has a handful of decent routes that make a visit definitely worthwhile.
stp - 19/Oct/09
i went last saturday , for my fisrt ever sport climbing day, apart from nearly pulling the routes off and leaving just a wall of soil, it was good, but it seemed as the routes get harder, it gets more polished, its a good crag but just needs a bit of getting used to. Ill be going back soon.
Liam Copley - 01/Jun/08
I agree with Wal's comments. But please don't light a bleedin' BBQ while people are climbing. There are so many varying sport routes here and still some excellent trad routes. I must have been here a dozen times over the last couple of years and tomorrow I'm going again cos it might be showery and it's easy to get off if you get caught in the rain - also there's nearly always something dry at Horseshoe if it's wet everywhere else.
Richard 261 - 09/Nov/07
Visited horseshoe for the first time on Sun 10 Jun 07 - after almost being put off by the earlier comments posted here. So glad I went! What a great sports climbing location! More than a hundred well bolted routes from 4 to 7, sheltered site, sun trap, tidy, no graffiti, no litter, easy access. What more could you want?
skyhigh269 - 11/Jun/07
Suitable for beginners/bottom-ropeing??? Right donw road from my aunties so is in fantastic location!
nolo - 24/Jun/06
When Iím hanging on by my finger-nails, I just donít seem to spend much time admiring the views!! For all its faults, there is a great selection of routes, itís very accessible and when the sun is out thereís plenty of space for Frisbees and barBQ.
Wal Holmes - 01/Jun/06
I must agree that the quarry is a good place to climb. And at what crag don't you get loose rock as all rock is vulnerable to weather conditions causing erosion.
MattieS - 09/May/06
i think it's a great place to climb there are just so many bolted routes at do-able grades. ok there's a fair bit of loose rock but if you're careful and wear helmets you'll be ok. it may not be beutiful and it may not be tranquil but the only time i've ever seen more climbable rock in one place was the grand canyon. in my opinion it's a great day out.
Josh - 01/Aug/05
After reading the comments above, I think there must be 2 Horseshoe quarries. In the one I go to, I have never encountered any polished routes. There are literally hundreds of good, well bolted routes in the 6a - 6c grades and even a few good trad routes. True enough, it's more like an outdoor climbing wall than a real crag, but my climbing is improving every time I go there. I'm looking forward to Pembroke in August, but I'll still keep going to Horseshoe.
Richard 261 - 26/Jun/05
Includes a gully at the left hand end of the lower tier described in On Peak Rock. "Quite Tricky, 50m"!
mad matt - 30/May/05
Been there today for the first time, i thought it was great and the sun was out.....cracking day! i know what you mean about the loose rock, bring on the adventure...............
JayJay - 12/May/05
I like it!
Adam Moroz - 18/Feb/05
There are sections of the quarry where you have to wonder "why bother?". If the BMC is to buy the quarry then serious consideration should be given as to whether some routes should be pulled down on safety grounds.
Bob - 06/Sep/04
So its not ideal, but what the hell, if you don't like, don't climb there, then it will not get so polished!!!!!!
Bob - 01/Sep/04
You might want to include a warning about loose rock and friable holds, particularly on the newer routes. Belayers should either wear a helmet or avoid standing directly below the route - or both - and even then you might not be safe!
Chris the Tall - 07/Aug/03
Well bolted but an extremely dangerous slab due to some very big loose rocks (especially on the first 2 routes from the left). If you are determined to climb there, a helmet is essential.
Antony - 16/Jul/03
Dont knock it. The best routes are good, particularly in the Legal Action to Megalithic area. Why would it be so popular if they were not? Beware some of the recent developmments though.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
I like it and most of my mates do as well, not a pretty place, but hey how many sports crags have we got? Some good routes on the top level. Stu
StuT - 08/Nov/02
A bloody awfull crag!!!! Dropped straight in the Peak from the Devil's backside. Embodies all the worst aspects of climbing, i.e. polished, badly bolted, chipped, quarried, ugly. We don't have to stoop to this....
Dave - 08/Nov/02
This place is so ugly people shouldn't be allowed to climb here.....actually I don't think you are allowed to climb here. [You are - UKC Ed.]
Stone Donkey - 08/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South Bay
2 NYD 6a+  
3 Pig in a Poke 5a 15
4 Bad Boys Ink 6a 36
5 Unruly Behaviour 6a+ 15
6 Treatment 6b 16
7 Therapy 6b+ * 44
8 Porgi Amor 6a+ * 85
9 Foreign Tongues 6a 72
10 Gouranga 6c * 23
11 You Crack Me Up E1 5b 2
12 MiniGrip 7a+ 9
13 Unhung 6a+ 1
14 The Fire Hang 6b 1
15 Hang Fire 6a 1
16 The Gobbler 5c  
17 Christmas Presence 6c+  
  Heart Buttress
19 Nine Eleven 6a 6
20 Seven Eleven 6b * 3
21 Tors Colon 6c+ 2
22 Vent Your Spleen 7b * 3
23 Heart to Heart E4 6a *  
24 Sliver 6c+ * 2
25 Stomach Pump 7a+ 1
26 Skin Flint 6b+ 1
27 The Blood Bank 6b 3
28 There Will Be Blood 6b  
  Chocolate Blancmange Wall
30 Taylor-Parkinson Gully IV 5 1
31 Sharing Best Practice 6a+ 1
32 Barney Rubble 5c 52
33 Chauvi's Slab 5c * 109
34 Still Nacht 5c 19
35 Trog 5a 101
36 Neanderthal 5c 308
37 Men at Work 5a 161
38 The Quarrymen 6a 199
39 Excavator 5c * 553
40 Slab Cake 4c 258
41 Spare Rib #1 5a 133
42 Crumbs 5a 1
43 The Cake Walk 4a 213
44 Christmas Pud 4c 169
45 Sago Slab 4a 217
46 Dream Topping 4c 227
47 Chocolate Blancmange Gully none xvd 7
48 Cinema Rage E1 5b 3
  Left Hand Wall
50 Out of Africa 6b+ 11
51 Madagascar 6b * 34
52 Bird Island 6a * 54
53 Seychelles 6b 11
54 Rainbow Warrior 6c * 41
55 Weakened Warrior 6b 15
56 Sam In You Eye 6a+ 34
57 During the War 6a+ * 89
58 Before the War 5a 149
59 Sahara 6b+ 14
60 Union Jack 5a 117
61 African't 6b+ 6
62 Desperate Dan 6b 11
63 Fine and Dandy 6b 3
64 African 6a+ 13
65 Bloodguard 6c+ 10
66 Grab yer Mandrakes 6b 23
67 Tirfin Mandrakes 6a+ 8
68 Tirfin USA 6a+ * 94
69 Tirf's High 6a+ 52
70 Race of the Freuds 6b+ 38
71 Peckling Fever 5c 280
72 Senter Home 6a 111
73 Tirf 'er Off 6a+ 49
74 63 Tomorrow 6c  
75 Maillon Sunday 6b * 66
76 Bootiful Bernard Mathews 6b * 35
77 Nowt Taken Out 6b 38
78 Foul's Bane 6a+ * 115
79 Drool Rock Worm 6b 20
80 Stone Throat 6b * 30
81 Slay the Gray 6b 12
82 Mr. Cellulite's Arete 6a+ 62
83 Bandolier 6a 150
84 Underslung 6b+ 7
85 The Little Thin Mexican Across the Border 6b * 38
86 Desperate Measures
-
6b+ 21
  Left Hand Walls (BMC land)
88 The Mexican takes Lexicon 6a+ 136
89 Exceeding the Speed Limit 6b 23
90 Mind Your Head 6b+ 22
91 Desperate Housewives 6a 31
92 Collared 6a 225
93 Spare Rib #2 6b 65
94 Eddie McStiff 6a+ * 72
95 Pelvic Thrust 6b 70
96 The Hippy Hippy Shakes 6a+ 93
97 Due Care and Attention 6a+ 230
98 Any Old Iron 6a 237
99 Sunday Sport 6b * 409
100 Austin Powers 6b 84
101 The Big Fat Texan on the Corner 6a * 707
102 He Seems so Sumo 6a 264
103 Olive Oil 6a 225
104 Removal Man 4c 341
105 Some Place 6b 47
106 Sag Ponir 5c * 669
  Main Wall
108 Pale Rider 6a * 1592
109 Rain Dance 6c ** 359
110 The Colostomy Finish 7a 59
111 Physical Fizz 6c+ 38
112 School's Out 6a+ ** 1360
Climb name Grade
113 Rotund Rooley/Schools Out combo 6a * 51
114 Rotund Rooley 6b ** 891
115 Waves of Mutilation 7a * 215
116 First Day Of Winter HVS 5b * 26
117 Wall of Jericho 6b * 594
118 The Leading Line 6b+ * 180
119 Say it With Flowers 6c ** 262
120 Legal Action 6c ** 365
121 Run For Your Wife 6c+ ** 119
122 Private Prosecution 6c *** 473
123 Litany Against Fear 6c ** 283
124 Megalithic Man 6b+ ** 744
125 Megalithic Man Direct 6c+ ** 106
126 Mega Shot 7a * 2
127 Poisonality 7a * 104
128 An Ancient Rhythm 6c+ ** 123
129 Demolition Man 7a ** 151
130 Shot the Conformist 6b+ * 11
131 Shot Yer Bolt 6b+ ** 420
132 Southern Man 7a+ * 70
133 Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge 6b+ * 133
134 Flat World 7a+ * 61
135 Lost Monolith 6b+ * 92
136 The French Connection E4 6a 2
137 Conformist 6c 7
138 Screwy Driver E1 5b 25
139 Harvey Wallbanger 6b 11
140 Sound as a Carp E1 5b 2
141 Spring Awakening HVS 5a 16
  Androids Sector
143 Monkey stole my walkman 6b * 11
144 Mutley Stole my Route Man 6b 8
145 Winter Fingers
-
6b 14
146 Broken to Bits
-
6c+ 1
147 Down to the Last
-
6b 7
148 Fragmented
-
6c 6
149 Mice Breaker 6b+ 13
150 Finishing off 6b+ 32
151 Spectophotometry E2 5b 10
152 50 Bolts to the Gallon 6a 196
153 Like Ice, Like Fire 6a 166
154 Like Ice, Like Fire (Trad) E1 5b * 52
155 Galening Crack HVS 5a ** 68
156 Compromise E2 5b 6
157 Promises 6a+ 77
158 The Rottin' Word 6c 11
159 Decaydence 6c 8
160 Order Number 59 E2 5c 5
161 A Right Earful 6a+ * 240
162 Clean Your Mouth Out 6c+ * 31
163 The Dust Bunnies 7a * 29
164 Lets Kill Dill E4 6a 2
165 Dalken Shield 6b * 97
166 Hardcore! You Know the Score 6b * 182
167 The Director's Cut 6a+ * 139
168 Blade Runner 6a+ * 125
169 Bruce's Bonus 6b * 175
170 Androids Direct E1 5b * 12
171 Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? E2 5c * 82
172 Rage 6b * 171
173 The Running Man 6b * 112
174 The Long Walk 6c 5
175 The Dark Tower 6b+ 15
176 The Drawing of the Three 6b+ 11
177 Willie the Kid 6a+ * 104
178 Calamity Jane 6b+ 35
179 Jeff Garrett 6a+ * 69
180 The Dogs 6b 43
181 Derailed 6a+ * 86
182 Passage of Time 6b * 122
  Toilet Sector
184 The Sewer 6a+ 193
185 Latrine 5a 716
186 Armitage 6a 339
187 Shanks 6a 166
188 Potty 6a 189
189 Psycho Ceramic 6a+ 156
190 The Bog 6a * 316
191 Twyfords 6a+ 331
192 The Small Room 6a+ * 280
193 Thomas Crapper 6a * 547
194 Two Loos 4c * 590
195 Montezuma's Revenge 6b 219
196 Latrec 5a * 610
197 Toilet Graffiti 5c 270
198 Toilet Humour 5a 264
199 De Throne 5a 271
200 On Uranus 6a * 171
201 Eau de Toilette 6a 112
202 Andrex 6b 54
203 Easy Come, Easy Go 3a 81
  Upper Tier (West Side)
  Top Quarry
206 A Tracky Little Problem 4a 80
207 Tracker Bar
-
5c 10
208 A Tracky Little Bleeder 5a 65
209 Mickey 3a 40
210 Minnie 3a 42
211 Daffy 4a 37
212 Goofy 3c 30
213 Donald 3c 33
214 Pluto 3c 27
215 Gargle Blaster 6a 359
216 Uranus 3c 672
217 Luke Skywalker 4a * 568
218 Klingon 4a 603
219 Saturns Rings 4c 379
220 Vogon 6a 383
221 Dr. Who? 6a * 185
222 Torchwood 5c 118
223 Beam me Across Scotty! 5a 159
224 The Libertines 6b 1
Climb name Grade
225 Taking Liberties 6c+ 5
226 Statuesque 6a 8
227 Mucker's Wall 5c 59
228 A Fit of Peak 6a+ 13
229 Citizen's Arete 5a 131
230 Fredonia 6b 3
231 Drumming in a Lay-by E1 5b 1
232 Greedor (Trad) E2 5b * 1
233 Greedor 6b+ 30
234 Off Limits 6a+ 45
  Upper Tier (East side)
236 Elizabethville 6a 2
237 Burundi 6b 1
238 Townships 6c+  
239 Victoria Falls 6b 2
240 Kariba 6a+ 3
241 Zanzibar 6b 3
242 Simonstone 6c+ * 1
243 Ring Thane 6c+ 7
244 Pretoria 6b+  
245 Mombassa 6a * 3
246 Greenpeace 6a 6
247 Brew Thyme 6a 4
248 Thyme Out 6a 4
249 What's the Thyme 6a 4
250 Bridge Over the River Thyme 5a 10
251 Bit of Spare Thyme 5c 11
252 Fat Betty 4c 35
253 Take Your Thyme 5c 25
254 Porridge 4c * 41
255 Crunch yer Nuts 4a * 57
256 Soggy Bottom Boys 6b 16
257 Man of Constant Sorrow 5c 38
258 Big Rock Candy Mountain 6a 73
259 Everett's Arete 5c 20
260 Repulse 5a 33
261 Prince of Wales 5c 31
262 That Old DA Look 4a 57
263 FOP 6a 30
  Upper Tier (BMC land)
265 In The Jailhouse 6a 8
266 Po Lazarus 5c 6
267 No Way is Patience a Virtue 6b * 179
268 Whilst the Cats Away E3 6b 2
269 O Brother Where Art Thou? 6a * 213
270 Unnamed (Narrow Pillar) 6a 6
271 Dapper Dan 6a * 164
272 Babe The Blue Axe 5c 158
273 The Cretan 6b+ 18
274 Corinthian Spirit 6a 69
275 Theseus-Saurus 6b+ 19
276 It's all Greek to Me 6b * 44
277 The Miner Tour 6c+ 7
278 Olympiakus 6c 4
279 Her Aklion 6c 5
280 Riser/Almost There 5a 119
281 Into the Labyrinth 6a * 275
282 Into the Labyrinth (Trad)
-
E1 5b 11
283 By Zeus 6a+ * 208
284 Spiteful Rain 5c 300
285 Second Prize/Commiseration 5a 34
286 Consolation Direct 6a+ * 2
287 Consolation 5c * 313
288 Tawny Owl Pie 5a 131
289 The Owl 6c 23
290 White Dove E1 5b * 22
291 Nullo in Mundo Pax Sincera 6c+ 9
292 Two Flat Whites 6a+  
293 Supplementary Questions 4c * 281
294 A Liberal Smear 6c 14
295 No Flair Blair E3 5c * 1
296 Labour Relations 6c+ 38
297 P.M.'s Question Time E3 6a 8
298 Avoiding the Issue E4 6a * 1
299 Booker Prize 6a+ * 137
300 Sir Pryze 6a+ * 203
301 Take It Easy 6b 9
302 Oy Missus 6c+ 7
303 Mr. Blue Sky 7a * 34
304 Esso Blue HVS 5b 8
305 Smoke Gets in Your Eyes 6c * 38
306 Esso Extra E1 5b 4
307 Shell Super 6c 5
308 Mumble Jumble 7a * 7
309 Fargo 6a+ 60
310 Blue Sunday 6b 60
311 Do It Yourself 6b+ 5
312 New Bolts And Yankees 6a 27
313 Kushti 6a+ 41
314 Lovely Bubbly 6c+ 5
315 Slabby but Nice 6a * 174
316 Sam And Mary 5a 43
317 Ma Marmalade 6a+ 12
318 Slam the Jam 6a 79
319 Jam Slice 6b 6
320 Don't Try This at Home 6c+ 1
321 Red Rum 5c 55
322 Nijinski E2 5b * 36
323 Seated Moon E2 5b ** 4
324 The Party Animal 6b * 69
325 Café Bleu E3 6a 15
326 Dinky Toy 6c 13
327 Corgi Registered 6b 5
328 Hornby 6a+ 12
  Doodah Buttress
330 Ol' Dirty Bastard E3 5c 1
331 Monster Traverse E3 6a ** 3
332 Hot Zipperty HVS 5a 4
  New, Unknown or Duplicates
334 A Serial Affair
-
6b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Alan James - UKC and UKH