Climbs 321
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces SW

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Rob Greenwood on Shot Yer Bolt (6b+) on the Main Wall at Horseshoe © Alan James

Crag features

The centre of mid and lower grade sport climbing in the Peak with many good routes between 6a and 7a, and a few below. Part of the quarry was purchased by the BMC in 2005 for the good of the nation, access is now freely allowed (with the usual caveats) and is dedicated as CROW land.

In 2017 a major rebolting excerise was undertaken on the routes on the BMC owned land, with a number of routes being decommisioned due to rock stability issues. Visitors should be aware that the quality of the bolts and indeed the rock itself might be of a significantly inferior standard in areas not owned by the BMC. See https://www.thebmc.co.uk/horseshoe-rebolting-round-up 

Quick drying and a good year round venue. Popular on sunny evenings. The best routes are on the Main Wall, 23m high, reasonably sound, but often sportingly bolted. Bolts and lower-offs on some routes have recently been replaced by the BMC, but this does not mean that the bolt spacing is comparable to an indoor wall. Best routes are Rain Dance (F6c+), Legal Action (F6c), Run For Your Wife (F6c+), Private Prosecution (F6c+), Litany Against Fear (F6b+), Megalithic Man (F6b+) and Shot Your Bolt (F6b+).

Sectors on either side off the Main Wall, and indeed above it on the Upper Tier, have been developed more recently and tend to be more closely bolted. However the rock tends to be less reliable, and although the BMC has undertaken some stabilization work, care should be exercised. Wearing a helmet is advisable, particularly when belaying. Nonetheless there are good routes to be found in most of the outlying areas - such as Rage (6b) and Excavator(5).

A few trad routes remain - such as Do Android Dream of Electric Sheep (E1 5c).

Up-to-the-minute topos can be found at www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

Approach notes

Parking for about 12 cars at the quarry entrance, which is just off the A623 at SK 205760, 1-2km west of Stoney Middleton. Do not block the turning circle. If this is full (which it often is), drive a little further west and park in the lay-bys either side of the road. Take care walking back along the road.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Now that the rebolting work is nearing completion can we expect to see published a list of routes rebolted, routes stripped and information on any routes that may have radically changed?
roger whetton - 30/Oct/17
Had a cracking day climbing here 21/04/14 round the toilet area, had no problems with rock falling off! The climbs were in good condition!
sam_whitehouse - 21/Apr/14
Climbed some lines on the slabs at the far end of the quarry on Saturday. A massive flake came off in my hands and split on the way down causing a chunk to hit my partners head. It has cracked her helmet and caused a slight head injury. I would seriously advise not to go up on here even if the lower grades are tempting as my piece wasn't the only piece that fell off!
Rhi Rhi - 22/Apr/13
Climbed a couple of lines on Guoranga Buttress Saturday and suggest avoiding them. It's all very loose and after doing a route we moved elsewhere for fear of doing more damage to the rock!
seanraby - 07/May/12
went there thursday last week and tuesday this week. did most of the 4+ on the slabs. good routes although the ground underneath is very eroded so be careful. Did latrine and removal man which were really good routes. good venue.
danimal - 10/Feb/11
Doodah Buttress is the short wall to the right of the upper tier. In the 1986 Stoney guide, but none of the more recent ones. Classics(?) include Pot-washer's wall (HVS 5b*) and Hot Zipperty (HVS 5a*). Rumour has it that this area has also been used for dry-tooling
Chris the Tall - 29/Oct/10
i just wanted to say thank you to the four guys who helped me on the 28-05-2010. i realy apreciate everything you did for me, from packing my gear to carrying it all out for me. but most of all for comforting clare while i was being treated. your a lovely bunch and i hope our paths will cross again someday, hopefully under better circumstances. best regards too you and a top venue. mike. no broken bones
mike-a-walton - 31/May/10
Horseshoe was one of the first of the peak district quarries to be developed to cater for the growing need of lower grade (sub 7s) sport climbing. It's amazing the place now sports over 250 routes although the quality of the vast majority of these is fairly poor. The crag is popular mainly because there are few other sport crags around that have many routes in the sixes and below. Being a disused quarry it's not exactly the most aesthetic place to climb but it's got a sunny aspect and it's far enough from the main road to at least be quiet. The main wall is by far the best part of the crag. The routes here lack natural lines: most are just blank walls linking up small features between the horizontal breaks. But good rock and interesting, and sometimes very technical climbing, more than make up for that. The bolts are in good condition, well placed and sometimes spaced far enough apart to add a little bit of excitement to the climbing too. If 6c is your grade Horseshoe has a handful of decent routes that make a visit definitely worthwhile.
stp - 19/Oct/09
i went last saturday , for my fisrt ever sport climbing day, apart from nearly pulling the routes off and leaving just a wall of soil, it was good, but it seemed as the routes get harder, it gets more polished, its a good crag but just needs a bit of getting used to. Ill be going back soon.
Liam Copley - 01/Jun/08
I agree with Wal's comments. But please don't light a bleedin' BBQ while people are climbing. There are so many varying sport routes here and still some excellent trad routes. I must have been here a dozen times over the last couple of years and tomorrow I'm going again cos it might be showery and it's easy to get off if you get caught in the rain - also there's nearly always something dry at Horseshoe if it's wet everywhere else.
Richard 261 - 09/Nov/07
Visited horseshoe for the first time on Sun 10 Jun 07 - after almost being put off by the earlier comments posted here. So glad I went! What a great sports climbing location! More than a hundred well bolted routes from 4 to 7, sheltered site, sun trap, tidy, no graffiti, no litter, easy access. What more could you want?
skyhigh269 - 11/Jun/07
Suitable for beginners/bottom-ropeing??? Right donw road from my aunties so is in fantastic location!
nolo - 24/Jun/06
When Iím hanging on by my finger-nails, I just donít seem to spend much time admiring the views!! For all its faults, there is a great selection of routes, itís very accessible and when the sun is out thereís plenty of space for Frisbees and barBQ.
Wal Holmes - 01/Jun/06
I must agree that the quarry is a good place to climb. And at what crag don't you get loose rock as all rock is vulnerable to weather conditions causing erosion.
MattieS - 09/May/06
i think it's a great place to climb there are just so many bolted routes at do-able grades. ok there's a fair bit of loose rock but if you're careful and wear helmets you'll be ok. it may not be beutiful and it may not be tranquil but the only time i've ever seen more climbable rock in one place was the grand canyon. in my opinion it's a great day out.
Josh - 01/Aug/05
After reading the comments above, I think there must be 2 Horseshoe quarries. In the one I go to, I have never encountered any polished routes. There are literally hundreds of good, well bolted routes in the 6a - 6c grades and even a few good trad routes. True enough, it's more like an outdoor climbing wall than a real crag, but my climbing is improving every time I go there. I'm looking forward to Pembroke in August, but I'll still keep going to Horseshoe.
Richard 261 - 26/Jun/05
Includes a gully at the left hand end of the lower tier described in On Peak Rock. "Quite Tricky, 50m"!
mad matt - 30/May/05
Been there today for the first time, i thought it was great and the sun was out.....cracking day! i know what you mean about the loose rock, bring on the adventure...............
JayJay - 12/May/05
I like it!
Adam Moroz - 18/Feb/05
There are sections of the quarry where you have to wonder "why bother?". If the BMC is to buy the quarry then serious consideration should be given as to whether some routes should be pulled down on safety grounds.
Bob - 06/Sep/04
So its not ideal, but what the hell, if you don't like, don't climb there, then it will not get so polished!!!!!!
Bob - 01/Sep/04
You might want to include a warning about loose rock and friable holds, particularly on the newer routes. Belayers should either wear a helmet or avoid standing directly below the route - or both - and even then you might not be safe!
Chris the Tall - 07/Aug/03
Well bolted but an extremely dangerous slab due to some very big loose rocks (especially on the first 2 routes from the left). If you are determined to climb there, a helmet is essential.
Antony - 16/Jul/03
Dont knock it. The best routes are good, particularly in the Legal Action to Megalithic area. Why would it be so popular if they were not? Beware some of the recent developmments though.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
I like it and most of my mates do as well, not a pretty place, but hey how many sports crags have we got? Some good routes on the top level. Stu
StuT - 08/Nov/02
A bloody awfull crag!!!! Dropped straight in the Peak from the Devil's backside. Embodies all the worst aspects of climbing, i.e. polished, badly bolted, chipped, quarried, ugly. We don't have to stoop to this....
Dave - 08/Nov/02
This place is so ugly people shouldn't be allowed to climb here.....actually I don't think you are allowed to climb here. [You are - UKC Ed.]
Stone Donkey - 08/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  South Bay
2 NYD 6a+  
3 Pig in a Poke 5a 14
4 Bad Boys Ink 6a 36
5 Unruly Behaviour 6a+ 15
6 Treatment 6b 16
7 Therapy 6b+ * 43
8 Porgi Amor 6a+ * 84
9 Foreign Tongues 6a 71
10 Gouranga 6c * 22
11 You crack me up E1 5b 2
12 MiniGrip 7a+ 9
13 Unhung 6a+ 1
14 The Fire Hang 6b 1
15 Hang Fire 6a 1
16 The Gobbler 5c  
17 Christmas Presence 6c+  
  Heart Buttress
19 Nine Eleven 6a 4
20 Seven Eleven 6b * 3
21 Tors Colon 6c+ 2
22 Vent Your Spleen 7b * 3
23 Heart to Heart E4 6a *  
24 Sliver 6c+ * 2
25 Stomach Pump 7a+ 1
26 Skin Flint 6b+ 1
27 The Blood Bank 6b 3
28 Sharing Best Practice 6a+ 1
29 Taylor-Parkinson Gully IV 5 1
  Chocolate Blancmange Wall
31 Barney Rubble 5c 48
32 Chauvi's Slab 5c * 101
33 Still Nacht 5c 19
34 Trog 5a 101
35 Neanderthal 5c 296
36 Men at Work 5a 154
37 The Quarrymen 6a 180
38 Excavator 5c * 534
39 Slab Cake 4c 248
40 Spare Rib #1 5a 131
41 Crumbs 5a 1
42 The Cake Walk 4a 205
43 Christmas Pud 4c 164
44 Sago Slab 4a 205
45 Dream Topping 4c 218
46 Chocolate Blancmange Gully none xvd 7
47 Cinema Rage E1 5b 3
  Left Hand Wall
49 Out of Africa 6b+ 10
50 Madagascar 6b * 33
51 Bird Island 6a * 50
52 Seychelles 6b 11
53 Rainbow Warrior 6c * 39
54 Weakened Warrior 6b 13
55 Sam In You Eye 6a+ 29
56 During the War 6a+ * 77
57 Before the War 5a 140
58 Sahara 6b+ 12
59 Union Jack 5a 107
60 African't 6b+ 6
61 Desperate Dan 6b 11
62 Fine and Dandy 6b 3
63 African 6a+ 13
64 Bloodguard 6c+ 10
65 Grab yer Mandrakes 6b 22
66 Tirfin Mandrakes 6a+ 7
67 Tirfin USA 6a+ * 90
68 Tirf's High 6a+ 52
69 Race of the Freuds 6b+ 37
70 Peckling Fever 5c 274
71 Senter Home 6a 108
72 Tirf 'er Off 6a+ 48
73 63 Tomorrow 6c  
74 Maillon Sunday 6b * 64
75 Bootiful Bernard Mathews 6b * 33
76 Nowt Taken Out 6b 35
77 Foul's Bane 6a+ * 108
78 Drool Rock Worm 6b 20
79 Stone Throat 6b * 30
80 Slay the Gray 6b 12
81 Mr. Cellulite's Arete 6a+ 58
82 Bandolier 6a 142
83 Underslung 6b+ 7
84 The Little Thin Mexican Across the Border 6b * 36
85 Desperate Measures
-
6b+ 20
  Left Hand Walls (BMC land)
87 The Mexican takes Lexicon 6a+ 136
88 Exceeding the Speed Limit 6b 23
89 Mind Your Head 6b+ 22
90 Desperate Housewives 6a 31
91 Collared 6a 225
92 Spare Rib #2 6b 65
93 Eddie McStiff 6a+ * 72
94 Pelvic Thrust 6b 68
95 The Hippy Hippy Shakes 6a+ 84
96 Due Care and Attention 6a+ 225
97 Any Old Iron 6a 229
98 Sunday Sport 6b * 393
99 Austin Powers 6b 83
100 The Big Fat Texan on the Corner 6a * 683
101 He Seems so Sumo 6a 263
102 Olive Oil 6a 215
103 Removal Man 4c 329
104 Some Place 6b 43
105 Sag Ponir 5c * 643
  Main Wall
107 Pale Rider 6a * 1544
108 Rain Dance 6c ** 341
109 The Colostomy Finish 7a 55
110 Physical Fizz 6c 36
111 School's Out 6a+ ** 1308
112 Rotund Rooley/Schools Out combo 6a * 50
Climb name Grade
113 Rotund Rooley 6b ** 849
114 Waves of Mutilation 7a * 202
115 First Day Of Winter HVS 5b * 26
116 Wall of Jericho 6b * 576
117 The Leading Line 6b+ * 171
118 Say it With Flowers 6c ** 252
119 Legal Action 6c ** 353
120 Run For Your Wife 6c+ ** 116
121 Private Prosecution 6c *** 447
122 Litany Against Fear 6c ** 275
123 Megalithic Man 6b+ ** 722
124 Megalithic Man Direct 6c+ ** 97
125 Mega Shot 7a * 2
126 Poisonality 7a * 96
127 An Ancient Rhythm 6c+ ** 122
128 Demolition Man 7a ** 147
129 Shot the Conformist 6b+ * 11
130 Shot Yer Bolt 6b+ ** 408
131 Southern Man 7a+ * 66
132 Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge 6b+ * 128
133 Flat World 7a+ * 58
134 Lost Monolith 6b+ * 88
135 The French Connection E4 6a 2
136 Conformist 6c 7
137 Screwy Driver E1 5b 24
138 Harvey Wallbanger 6b 9
139 Sound as a Carp E1 5b 2
140 Spring Awakening HVS 5a 16
  Androids Sector
142 Monkey stole my walkman 6b * 11
143 Mutley Stole my Route Man 6b 8
144 Winter Fingers
-
6b 14
145 Broken to Bits
-
6c+ 1
146 Down to the Last
-
6b 7
147 Fragmented
-
6c 5
148 Mice Breaker 6b+ 13
149 Finishing off 6b+ 31
150 Spectophotometry E2 5b 8
151 50 Bolts to the Gallon 6a 186
152 Like Fire Like Ice 6a 148
153 Like Ice, Like Fire (Trad) E1 5b * 48
154 Galening Crack HVS 5a ** 63
155 Compromise E2 5b 6
156 Promises 6a+ 71
157 The Rottin' Word 6c 11
158 Decaydence 6c 7
159 Order Number 59 E2 5c 5
160 A Right Earful 6a+ * 229
161 Clean Your Mouth Out 6c+ * 29
162 The Dust Bunnies 7a * 27
163 Lets Kill Dill E4 6a 2
164 Dalken Shield 6b * 92
165 Hardcore! You Know the Score 6b * 176
166 The Director's Cut 6a+ * 136
167 Blade Runner 6a+ * 118
168 Bruce's Bonus 6b * 174
169 Androids Direct E1 5b * 12
170 Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep? E2 5c * 80
171 Rage 6b * 167
172 The Running Man 6b * 108
173 The Long Walk 6c 5
174 The Dark Tower 6b+ 15
175 The Drawing of the Three 6b+ 10
176 Willie the Kid 6a+ * 100
177 Calamity Jane 6b+ 32
178 Jeff Garrett 6a+ * 63
179 The Dogs 6b 38
180 Derailed 6a+ * 83
181 Passage of Time 6b * 118
  Toilet Sector
183 The Sewer 6a+ 188
184 Latrine 5a 691
185 Armitage 6a 332
186 Shanks 6a 162
187 Potty 6a 185
188 Psycho Ceramic 6a+ 152
189 The Bog 6a * 308
190 Twyfords 6a+ 325
191 The Small Room 6a+ * 271
192 Thomas Crapper 6a * 523
193 Two Loos 4c * 580
194 Montezuma's Revenge 6b 212
195 Latrec 5a * 584
196 Toilet Graffiti 5c 260
197 Toilet Humour 5a 250
198 De Throne 5a 255
199 On Uranus 6a * 163
200 Eau de Toilette 6a 82
201 Wipe it Clean 6a 27
202 Andrex 6b 50
203 Easy Come, Easy Go 3a 73
  Upper Tier (West Side)
  Top Quarry
206 Mickey 3a 40
207 Minnie 3a 42
208 Daffy 4a 37
209 Goofy 3c 30
210 Donald 3c 33
211 Pluto 3c 27
212 A Tracky Little Problem 4a 79
213 Tracker Bar
-
5c 10
214 A Tracky Little Bleeder 5a 64
215 Gargle Blaster 6a 356
216 Uranus 3c 649
217 Luke Skywalker 4a * 543
218 Klingon 4a 579
219 Saturns Rings 4c 367
220 Vogon 6a 374
221 Dr. Who? 6a * 182
222 Torchwood 5c 110
223 Beam me Across Scotty! 5a 151
224 The Libertines 6b 1
Climb name Grade
225 Taking Liberties 6c+ 5
226 Statuesque 6a 8
227 Mucker's Wall 6a+ 58
228 A Fit of Peak 6a+ 12
229 Citizen's Arete 5a 123
230 Fredonia 6b 3
231 Drumming in a Lay-by E1 5b 1
232 Greedor E2 5b * 1
233 The Whinger 6a+ 29
234 Off Limits 6a+ 43
  Upper Tier (East side)
236 Elizabethville 6a 2
237 Burundi 6b 1
238 Townships 6c+  
239 Victoria Falls 6b 2
240 Kariba 6a+ 3
241 Zanzibar 6b 3
242 Simonstone 6c+ * 1
243 Ring Thane 6c+ 6
244 Pretoria 6b+  
245 Mombassa 6a * 2
246 Greenpeace 6a 6
247 Brew Thyme 6a 4
248 Thyme Out 6a 4
249 What's the Thyme 6a 4
250 Bridge Over the River Thyme 5a 9
251 Bit of Spare Thyme 5c 9
252 Fat Betty 4c 29
253 Take Your Thyme 5c 21
254 Porridge 4c * 41
255 Crunch yer Nuts 4a * 55
256 Soggy Bottom Boys 6b 16
257 Man of Constant Sorrow 5c 38
258 Big Rock Candy Mountain 6a 70
259 Everett's Arete 5c 20
260 Repulse 5a 28
261 Prince of Wales 5c 27
262 That Old DA Look 4a 52
263 FOP 6a 29
  Upper Tier (BMC land)
265 In The Jailhouse 6a 8
266 Po Lazarus 5c 6
267 No Way is Patience a Virtue 6b * 174
268 Whilst the Cats Away E3 6b 2
269 O Brother Where Art Thou? 6a * 207
270 Unnamed (Narrow Pillar) 6a 6
271 Dapper Dan 6a * 149
272 Babe The Blue Axe 5c 144
273 The Cretan 6b+ 18
274 Corinthian Spirit 6a 68
275 Theseus-Saurus 6b+ 19
276 It's all Greek to Me 6b * 44
277 The Miner Tour 6c+ 7
278 Olympiakus 6c 3
279 Her Aklion 6c 5
280 Almost There 5a 104
281 Into the Labyrinth 6a * 253
282 Into the Labyrinth (Trad)
-
E1 5b 11
283 By Zeus 6a+ * 198
284 Spiteful Rain 5c 277
285 Commiseration 5a 21
286 Consolation * 6a+ 16
287 Second Prize 5c * 288
288 Tawny Owl Pie 5a 116
289 The Owl 6c 22
290 White Dove E1 5b * 22
291 Nullo in Mundo Pax Sincera 6c+ 8
292 Two Flat Whites 6a+  
293 Supplementary Questions 4c * 262
294 A Liberal Smear 6c 13
295 No Flair Blair E3 5c * 1
296 Labour Relations 6c+ 38
297 P.M.'s Question Time E3 6a 8
298 Avoiding the Issue E4 6a * 1
299 Booker Prize 6a+ * 130
300 Sir Pryze 6a+ * 198
301 Take It Easy 6b 9
302 Oy Missus 6c+ 6
303 Mr. Blue Sky 7a * 35
304 Esso Blue HVS 5b 8
305 Smoke Gets in Your Eyes 6c * 35
306 Esso Extra E1 5b 3
307 Shell Super 6c 4
308 Mumble Jumble 7a * 7
309 Fargo 6a+ 55
310 Blue Sunday 6b 57
311 Do It Yourself 6b+ 5
312 New Bolts And Yankees 6a 26
313 Kushti 6a+ 39
314 Lovely Bubbly 6c+ 5
315 Slabby but Nice 6a * 164
316 Sam And Mary 5a 43
317 Ma Marmalade 6a+ 12
318 Slam the Jam 6a 77
319 Jam Slice 6b 5
320 Don't Try This at Home 6c+ 1
321 Red Rum 5c 53
322 Nijinski E2 5b * 35
323 Seated Moon E2 5b ** 4
324 The Party Animal 6b * 63
325 Café Bleu E3 6a 14
326 Dinky Toy 6c 13
327 Corgi Registered 6b 5
328 Hornby 6a+ 10
  Doodah Buttress
330 Ol' Dirty Bastard E3 5c 1
331 Monster Traverse E3 6a ** 3
332 Hot Zipperty HVS 5a 3
  New, Unknown or Duplicates
334 A Serial Affair
-
6b 2
* Climbs listed in red are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate.

Moderator Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteer Alan James - UKC and UKH