Climbs 320
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 260m a.s.l
Faces SW

First day clipping in the sun © ben_lea

Crag features

The centre of mid and lower grade sport climbing in the Peak with many good routes between 6a and 7a, and a few below. Purchased by the BMC in 2005 for the good of the nation, access is now freely allowed (with the usual caveats) and is dedicated as CROW land.

Quick drying and a good year round venue. Popular on sunny evenings. The best routes are on the Main Wall, 23m high, reasonably sound, but often sportingly bolted. Bolts and lower-offs on some routes have recently been replaced by the BMC, but this does not mean that the bolt spacing is comparable to an indoor wall. Best routes are Rain Dance (F6c+), Legal Action (F6c), Run For Your Wife (F6c+), Private Prosecution (F6c+), Litany Against Fear (F6b+), Megalithic Man (F6b+) and Shot Your Bolt (F6b+).

Sectors on either side off the Main Wall, and indeed above it on the Upper Tier, have been developed more recently and tend to be more closely bolted. However the rock tends to be less reliable, and although the BMC has undertaken some stabilization work, care should be exercised. Wearing a helmet is advisable, particularly when belaying. Nonetheless there are good routes to be found in most of the outlying areas - such as Rage (6b) and Excavator(5).

A few trad routes remain - such as Do Android Dream of Electric Sheep (E1 5c).

Up-to-the-minute topos can be found at www.sportsclimbs.co.uk

Approach notes

Parking for about 12 cars at the quarry entrance, which is just off the A623 at SK 205760, 1-2km west of Stoney Middleton. Do not block the turning circle. If this is full (which it often is), drive a little further west and park in the lay-bys either side of the road. Take care walking back along the road.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
Had a cracking day climbing here 21/04/14 round the toilet area, had no problems with rock falling off! The climbs were in good condition!
sam_whitehouse - 21/Apr/14
Climbed some lines on the slabs at the far end of the quarry on Saturday. A massive flake came off in my hands and split on the way down causing a chunk to hit my partners head. It has cracked her helmet and caused a slight head injury. I would seriously advise not to go up on here even if the lower grades are tempting as my piece wasn't the only piece that fell off!
Rhi Rhi - 22/Apr/13
Climbed a couple of lines on Guoranga Buttress Saturday and suggest avoiding them. It's all very loose and after doing a route we moved elsewhere for fear of doing more damage to the rock!
seanraby - 07/May/12
went there thursday last week and tuesday this week. did most of the 4+ on the slabs. good routes although the ground underneath is very eroded so be careful. Did latrine and removal man which were really good routes. good venue.
danimal - 10/Feb/11
Doodah Buttress is the short wall to the right of the upper tier. In the 1986 Stoney guide, but none of the more recent ones. Classics(?) include Pot-washer's wall (HVS 5b*) and Hot Zipperty (HVS 5a*). Rumour has it that this area has also been used for dry-tooling
Chris the Tall - 29/Oct/10
i just wanted to say thank you to the four guys who helped me on the 28-05-2010. i realy apreciate everything you did for me, from packing my gear to carrying it all out for me. but most of all for comforting clare while i was being treated. your a lovely bunch and i hope our paths will cross again someday, hopefully under better circumstances. best regards too you and a top venue. mike. no broken bones
mike-a-walton - 31/May/10
Horseshoe was one of the first of the peak district quarries to be developed to cater for the growing need of lower grade (sub 7s) sport climbing. It's amazing the place now sports over 250 routes although the quality of the vast majority of these is fairly poor. The crag is popular mainly because there are few other sport crags around that have many routes in the sixes and below. Being a disused quarry it's not exactly the most aesthetic place to climb but it's got a sunny aspect and it's far enough from the main road to at least be quiet. The main wall is by far the best part of the crag. The routes here lack natural lines: most are just blank walls linking up small features between the horizontal breaks. But good rock and interesting, and sometimes very technical climbing, more than make up for that. The bolts are in good condition, well placed and sometimes spaced far enough apart to add a little bit of excitement to the climbing too. If 6c is your grade Horseshoe has a handful of decent routes that make a visit definitely worthwhile.
stp - 19/Oct/09
i went last saturday , for my fisrt ever sport climbing day, apart from nearly pulling the routes off and leaving just a wall of soil, it was good, but it seemed as the routes get harder, it gets more polished, its a good crag but just needs a bit of getting used to. Ill be going back soon.
Liam Copley - 01/Jun/08
I agree with Wal's comments. But please don't light a bleedin' BBQ while people are climbing. There are so many varying sport routes here and still some excellent trad routes. I must have been here a dozen times over the last couple of years and tomorrow I'm going again cos it might be showery and it's easy to get off if you get caught in the rain - also there's nearly always something dry at Horseshoe if it's wet everywhere else.
Richard 261 - 09/Nov/07
Visited horseshoe for the first time on Sun 10 Jun 07 - after almost being put off by the earlier comments posted here. So glad I went! What a great sports climbing location! More than a hundred well bolted routes from 4 to 7, sheltered site, sun trap, tidy, no graffiti, no litter, easy access. What more could you want?
skyhigh269 - 11/Jun/07
Suitable for beginners/bottom-ropeing??? Right donw road from my aunties so is in fantastic location!
nolo - 24/Jun/06
When Iím hanging on by my finger-nails, I just donít seem to spend much time admiring the views!! For all its faults, there is a great selection of routes, itís very accessible and when the sun is out thereís plenty of space for Frisbees and barBQ.
Wal Holmes - 01/Jun/06
I must agree that the quarry is a good place to climb. And at what crag don't you get loose rock as all rock is vulnerable to weather conditions causing erosion.
MattieS - 09/May/06
i think it's a great place to climb there are just so many bolted routes at do-able grades. ok there's a fair bit of loose rock but if you're careful and wear helmets you'll be ok. it may not be beutiful and it may not be tranquil but the only time i've ever seen more climbable rock in one place was the grand canyon. in my opinion it's a great day out.
Josh - 01/Aug/05
After reading the comments above, I think there must be 2 Horseshoe quarries. In the one I go to, I have never encountered any polished routes. There are literally hundreds of good, well bolted routes in the 6a - 6c grades and even a few good trad routes. True enough, it's more like an outdoor climbing wall than a real crag, but my climbing is improving every time I go there. I'm looking forward to Pembroke in August, but I'll still keep going to Horseshoe.
Richard 261 - 26/Jun/05
Includes a gully at the left hand end of the lower tier described in On Peak Rock. "Quite Tricky, 50m"!
mad matt - 30/May/05
Been there today for the first time, i thought it was great and the sun was out.....cracking day! i know what you mean about the loose rock, bring on the adventure...............
JayJay - 12/May/05
I like it!
Adam Moroz - 18/Feb/05
There are sections of the quarry where you have to wonder "why bother?". If the BMC is to buy the quarry then serious consideration should be given as to whether some routes should be pulled down on safety grounds.
Bob - 06/Sep/04
So its not ideal, but what the hell, if you don't like, don't climb there, then it will not get so polished!!!!!!
Bob - 01/Sep/04
You might want to include a warning about loose rock and friable holds, particularly on the newer routes. Belayers should either wear a helmet or avoid standing directly below the route - or both - and even then you might not be safe!
Chris the Tall - 07/Aug/03
Well bolted but an extremely dangerous slab due to some very big loose rocks (especially on the first 2 routes from the left). If you are determined to climb there, a helmet is essential.
Antony - 16/Jul/03
Dont knock it. The best routes are good, particularly in the Legal Action to Megalithic area. Why would it be so popular if they were not? Beware some of the recent developmments though.
Harold - 24/Dec/02
I like it and most of my mates do as well, not a pretty place, but hey how many sports crags have we got? Some good routes on the top level. Stu
StuT - 08/Nov/02
A bloody awfull crag!!!! Dropped straight in the Peak from the Devil's backside. Embodies all the worst aspects of climbing, i.e. polished, badly bolted, chipped, quarried, ugly. We don't have to stoop to this....
Dave - 08/Nov/02
This place is so ugly people shouldn't be allowed to climb here.....actually I don't think you are allowed to climb here. [You are - UKC Ed.]
Stone Donkey - 08/Nov/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
 Routes that have fallen down 
2Monkey stole my walkman6b *11
 South Bay 
4NYD6a+  
5Pig in a Poke5a 12
6Bad Boys Ink6a 28
7Unruly Behaviour6a+ 14
8Treatment6b 15
9Therapy6b+ *35
10Porgi Amor6a+ *70
11Foreign Tongues6a 55
12Gouranga6c *21
13You crack me upE1 5b 2
14MiniGrip7a+ 8
15Unhung6a+  
16The Fire Hang6b  
17Hang Fire6a  
18The Gobbler5c  
19Christmas Presence6c+  
 Heart Buttress 
21Nine Eleven6a 2
22Seven Eleven6b *3
23Tors Colon6c+ 2
24Vent Your Spleen7b *4
25Heart to HeartE4 6a * 
26Sliver6c+ *2
27Stomach Pump7a+ 1
28Skin Flint6b+ 1
29The Blood Bank6b 3
30Sharing Best Practice6a+ 1
31Taylor-Parkinson GullyIV 5 1
 Chocolate Blancmange Wall 
33Barney Rubble5c 40
34Chauvi's Slab5c *74
35Still Nacht5c 17
36Trog5a 92
37Neanderthal5c 204
38Men at Work5a 86
39The Quarrymen6a 106
40Excavator5c *429
41Slab Cake4c 193
42Spare Rib #15a 99
43The Cake Walk4a 171
44Christmas Pud4c 130
45Sago Slab4a 162
46Dream Topping4c 189
47Chocolate Blancmange Gullynone xvd 5
48Cinema RageE1 5b 1
 Africa Buttress 
50Elizabethville6a 1
51Burundi6b  
52Townships6c+  
53Victoria Falls6b 2
54Kariba6a+ 3
55Zanzibar6b 3
56Simonstone6c+ *1
57Out of Africa6b+ 5
58Madagasca6b *25
59Bird Island6a *34
60Seychelles6b 11
61Rainbow Warrior6c *24
62Weakened Warrior6b 6
63Sam In You Eye6a+ 16
64Ring Thane6c+ 5
65Pretoria6b+  
66Mombassa6a *2
67Greenpeace6a 5
 Left Hand Walls 
69During the War6a+ *43
70Before the War5a 76
71Sahara6b+ 7
72Union Jack5a 60
73African't6b+ 4
74Desperate Dan6b 9
75Fine and Dandy6b 2
76African6a+ 8
77Bloodguard6c+ 5
78Grab yer Mandrakes6b 16
79Tirfin Mandrakes6a+ 6
80Tirfin USA6a+ *64
81Tirf's High6a+ 44
82Race of the Freuds6b+ 27
83Peckling Fever5c 229
84Senter Home6a 87
85Tirf 'er Off6a+ 39
8663 Tomorrow6c  
87Mail on Sunday6b *52
88Bootiful Bernard Mathews6b *26
89Nowt Taken Out6b 24
90Foul's Bane6a+ *82
91Drool Rock Worm6b 15
92Stone Throat6b *20
93Slay the Gray6b 9
94Mr. Cellulite's Arete6a+ 36
95Bandolier6a 99
96Underslung6b+ 3
97The Little Thin Mexican Across the Border6b *16
98Desperate Measures6b+ 15
99The Mexican takes Lexicon6a+ *125
100Exceeding the Speed Limit6b 21
101Mind Your Head6b+ 20
102Desperate Housewives6a 31
103Collared6a *214
104Spare Rib #26b 59
105Eddie McStiff6a+ 66
106Pelvic Thrust6b 62
107The Hippy Hippy Shakes6a+ 55
108Due Care and Attention6a+ 183
109Any Old Iron6a 183
110Sunday Sport6b *298
111Austin Powers6b 77
112The Big Fat Texan on the Corner6a *526
113He Seems so Sumo6a 246
114Olive Oil6a 162
115Removal Man4c 245
116Some Place6b 30
117Sag Ponir5c *468
 Main Wall 
119Pale Rider6a *1172
120Rain Dance6c **243
121The Colostomy Finish7a 30
122Physical Fizz6c 31
123School's Out6a+ **942
124Rotund Rooley/Schools Out combo6a *31
125Rotund Rooley6b **617
126Wave of Mutilation7a *127
127First Day Of WinterHVS 5b *22
128Wall of Jericho6b *474
129The Leading Line6b+ *137
130Say it With Flowers6c **191
131Legal Action6c **270
132Run For Your Wife6c+ **78
133Private Prosecution6c ***314
134Litany Against Fear6c **248
135Megalithic Man6b+ **577
136Megalithic Man (Direct Finish)6c+ **65
137Poisonality7a *50
138An Ancient Rhythm6c **102
139Demolition Man7a **89
140Shot Yer Bolt6b+ **331
141Southern Man7a+ *33
142Nice Face, Shame about the Ledge6b+ *82
143Flat World7a+ *42
144Lost Monolith6b+ *51
145The French ConnectionE4 6a 1
146ConformistE2 6a 3
147Screwy DriverE1 5b 21
148Harvey Wallbanger6b 6
149Sound as a CarpE1 5b 1
150Spring AwakeningHVS 5a 14
 Androids Sector 
152Mutley Stole my Route Man6b 8
153Winter Fingers6b 13
154Broken to Bits6c+ 1
155Down to the Last6b 6
156Fragmented6c 3
157Mice Breaker6b+ 6
158Finishing off6b+ 14
159SpectophotometryE1 5b 7
16050 Bolts to the Gallon6a 126
161Like Fire Like Ice6a 58
162Like Ice, Like Fire (Trad)E1 5b *47
163Galening CrackHVS 5a **43
164CompromiseE2 5b 6
165Promises6a+ 49
166The Rottin' Word6c 6
167Decaydence6c 4
168Order Number 59E2 5c 5
169A Right Earful6a+ *165
170Clean Your Mouth Out6c+ *23
171The Dust Bunnies7a *15
172Lets Kill DillE4 6a 2
173Dalken Shield6b *66
174Hardcore! You Know the Score6b *156
175The Director's Cut6a+ *109
176Blade Runner6a+ *58
177Bruce's Bonus6b *146
178Androids DirectE1 5b *9
179Do Androids Dream of Electric Sheep?E2 5c *70
180Rage6b *113
181The Running Man6b *90
182The Long Walk6c 3
183The Dark Tower6b+ 12
184The Drawing of the Three6b+ 8
185Willie the Kid6a+ *78
186Calamity Jane6b+ 26
187Jeff Garrett6a+ *47
188The Dogs6b 30
189Derailed6a+ *61
190Passage of Time6b *85
 Toilet Sector 
192The Sewer6a+ 146
193Latrine5a 545
194Armitage6a 265
195Shanks6a 128
196Potty6a 154
197Psycho Ceramic6a+ 109
198The Bog6a *247
199Twyfords6a+ 270
200The Small Room6a+ *218
201Thomas Crapper6a *414
202Two Loos4c *370
203Montezuma's Revenge6b 170
204Latrec5a *386
205Toilet Graffiti5c 175
206Toilet Humour5a 161
207De Throne5a 169
208On Uranus6a *104
209Eau de Toilette6a 51
210Wipe it Clean6a 18
211Andrex6b 36
212Easy Come, Easy Go3 55
 Upper Tier (West Side) 
 Top Quarry 
215Mickey3 25
216Minnie3 29
217Daffy4a 26
218Goofy3+ 20
219Donald3+ 19
220Pluto3+ 15
221A Tracky Little Problem4a 54
222Tracker Bar
-
5c 7
223A Tracky Little Bleeder5a 50
224Gargle Blaster6a 300
225Uranus3+ 495
226Luke Skywalker4a *416
227Klingon4a 448
228Saturns Rings4c 291
229Vogon6a 309
230Dr. Who?6a *144
231Torchwood5c 92
232Beam me Across Scotty!5a 125
233The Libertines6b  
234Taking Liberties6c+ 4
235Statuesque6a 7
236Mucker's Wall6a+ 46
237A Fit of Peak6a+ 10
238Citizen's Arete5a 101
239Fredonia6b 3
240Drumming in a Lay-byE1 5b 1
241GreedorE2 5b *1
242The Whinger6a+ 28
243Off Limits6a+ 38
 Upper Tier (East side) 
245Brew Thyme6a 3
246Thyme Out6a 3
247Whats the Thyme6a 3
248Bridge Over the River Thyme5a 5
249Bit of Spare Thyme5c 4
250Fat Betty4c 14
251Take Your Thyme5c 12
252Porridge4c *23
253Crunch yer Nuts4a *30
254Soggy Bottom Boys6b+ *10
255Man of Constant Sorrow5c 27
256Big Rock Candy Mountain6a 57
257Everett's Arete5c 16
258Repulse5a 17
259Prince of Wales5c 13
260That Old DA Look4a 25
261FOP6a 19
262In The Jailhouse6a 7
263Po Lazarus5c 6
264No Way is Patience a Virtue6b *124
265Whilst the Cats away6c 1
266O Brother Where Art Thou?6a *151
267Unnamed (Narrow Pillar)6a 6
268Dapper Dan6a *101
269Babe The Blue Axe5c 91
270Cretan6b+ 10
271Corinthian Spirit6a 35
272Theseus-Saurus6b+ 8
273It's all Greek to Me6b *33
274The Miner Tour6c+ 4
275Olympiakus6c  
276Her Aklion6c 5
277Almost There5a 56
278Into the Labyrinth6a *166
279Into the Labyrinth (Trad)
-
E1 5b 9
280By Zeus6a+ *132
281Spiteful Rain (First Prize)5c 182
282Commiseration5a 3
283Second Prize6a 49
284Consolation5c *133
285Tawny Owl Pie5a 71
286The Owl6c 14
287White DoveE1 5b *15
288Nullo in Mundo Pax Sincera6c+ 4
289Two Flat Whites6a+  
290Supplementary Question (Slab and Corner)4c *168
291A Liberal Smear6c 6
292No Flair BlairE3 5c *1
293Labour Relations6c+ 25
294P.M.'s Question TimeE3 6a 5
295Avoiding the IssueE4 6a *1
296Booker Prize6a+ *81
297Sir Pryze6a+ *136
298Take It Easy6b 4
299Oy Missus6c+ 5
300Mr. Blue Sky7a *21
301Esso BlueHVS 5b 6
302Smoke Gets in Your Eyes6c *18
303Shell Super6c 3
304Esso ExtraE1 5b 3
305Mumble Jumble7a *7
306Fargo6a+ 41
307Blue Sunday6b *53
308Do It Yourself6b+ 5
309New Bolts And Yankees6a 25
310Kushti6a+ 38
311Lovely Bubbly6c+ 5
312Slabby but Nice6a *106
313Sam And Mary5a 17
314Ma Marmalade6a+ 10
315Slam the Jam6a *68
316Jam Slice6b 5
317Don't Try This at Home6c+ 1
318Red Rum5c 23
319NijinskiE2 5b *21
320Seated MoonE2 5b **4
321The Party Animal6b *38
322Café BleuE3 6a 10
323Dinky ToyE4 6b 9
324Corgi Registered6b 5
325Hornby6a+ 5
 Doodah Buttress 
327Ol' Dirty BastardE3 5c 1
328Monster TraverseE3 6a **3
329Hot ZippertyHVS 5a 3
 New, Unknown or Duplicates 
331A Serial Affair6b 2
332First Prize5c 1
333The Soggy6b  
334Spare Rib6b 5

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